This is the only video that clearly explain in details of the Bean Animal Overflow System. It shows different scenarios and the pros and cons of the variations in plumbing. Appreciate this!
That is how you make a video to actually teach something Its great that there is no skimmer, reactor, etc plumbing in the sight that the audience can actually focus on the drain plumbing Thx for the video and keep up the good work.
Great video! One thing on the strapping, depending on the pad under the aquarium you might get a bit of compression as the tank fills up. This will apply pressure to the overflow box since your pipes are bolted to the stand which isn't moving as the tank compresses towards the stand. Might think about strapping after the tank is full.
This video had a lot of information as to what we should do, and why. This was the best information I've come across. Start to finish, covering every aspect of the install. Thank you!!
Why do the bulkheads come with slip connections now? I see a comment below that says they are threaded so there wouldn't be a need for unions immediately after the exterior box. Best video on UA-cam about this btw.
Agree... Best video on this topic. It took me a month of research and collecting info from different vids & forums to acquire all the best practices you have in this one video... esp. The siphon drain pipe 1-2" below the water line.. enough to quiet but not enough to prevent air purge. Also the gate valve at the end.. the more unrestricted pressure you can build up..the more you can get out of each size drain siphon. Same idea, even ifvgoing with 1" drain... you can plumb everything 1.5 until in the box and down the back and THEN reduce to 1" on drain once entering the sump/stand area.. this pressure will make it easier to start &vpurge your 1" main drain & maximize gph.
you won't gain gph by doing that as the tubing still ends with the same width it'll just add more weight to the suction it's also what many people use in racks so they don't install drain boxes... drill all tanks with 2, 2" holes one for overflow and another as backup the 2" goes into 4-5" piping creating pull weight and this way they only need a sponge inside the tank...it requires less maintenance because of the gravity weight pull each tank have a ball valve for the drain so that if a tank in the rack somewhere breaks...leaks whatever the reason... close the valve and just unscrew the drain off the tank and replace it this way the entire rack keeps running the issue with that is that you need a much larger sump because the main drain pipe runs underwater so the sump will have to accommodate for that or just use the entire bottom rack as the excess water hold backup...something like making the entire bottom rack a 'sump'
Thank you for the video. I'm going to soon begin plumbing for my new 180g w/Trigger Systems sump and I'm terrified of screwing up my overflow and hard plumbing. This really helped.
I work for Spears and I would like to say they make any fittings you can think of. And all valves and such come with instructions on how to set and mount. And they sell thread sealant as well. I see custom manifolds and ect. Everyday they can make anything you need with pvc. Custom
Can you elaborate on the gate valve location being as close to the end of the line (presumably the sump) as possible. I have heard the exact opposite of this and noticed in the video there is at least two shots where the gate valve is immediately off of the drain box (so very close to the beginning of the system). Thank you for taking the time to explain in more detail, I greatly appreciate it. I’ll be installing my new drain pipe next weekend so I want to plan for the “best practices”. 😊
Great video my only complaint is the space left between the lines my ocd doesn't ever allow this simple method 😂 I have to run the lines as close to each other and matching as much as possible for a more clean open look but this works just fine if it visually doesn't bother you
picked up a 125g for free. The previous owner used this method but he has holes drilled into the top back of the tank. Just getting back into the hobby myself
Excellent video and info! Questions: Can I plumb a bean animal overflow with flex pvc? Also, I'm planning a main floor display with a basement sump, and am wondering where the best place for the gate valve on the siphon line would be - still furthest to the bottom?
Great video. I would want to see your explanation on Herbie overflow and which one in your opinion is better ? Which one is quitter? Or perhaps Cons of Pros on both of them. Herbie vs Bean Animal overflow,
Nice video! How shall I size the plumbing for a 5500 lph (approx. 1500 gph) flow rate tank with bean animal? Are the 1" siphon line and two 1.25" for the emergency and open drain lines sufficient? Larger or smaller diameters than this?
Love this video. One of the best I have seen however, I'm confused! At 4:44 why doesn't the right hand overflow syphon to the bottom of the elbow? Surely the pump isn't replenishing faster than it drains. Thanks
Because the gate valve is still partially closed, limiting the amount of water that can flow through it. There is still some amount of water flowing down the open channel (center), so it is setting the height of the water in the box.
So I'm all set up with the beanie. Do you have a video on tweeking it to syphon? I got it syphoning but when I drop the pump and turned it back on, it didn't syphon again. Thanks
@@nicwilliams00 I would need a little more information on your setup. But the usual culprits are using plumbing that is too large for the flow rate you have. Also, how far down into the sump water does your siphon line extend. You want it to only go down into the water about 1". Do you have the valve set up at the end of the line, or at the top right below the overflow. You want the valve as close to the sump as possible.
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 Hi thanks for reply. Pump is 1000l/h on a 95l display and 25l sump. All 3 lines are 1". Syphon line is 2.5" under water. I'll cut some off this to 1" today. Gate valve is 6" above water line. I need to order some more fitting for the elbows and tees in the OF box as I cut them down to see if that made a difference.
Great video! Question: 1. Do both of the siphon lines need to be under water in the sump to make this overflow work? 2. Is one gate valve on the main siphon line good enough or do I need another one for the secondary line
They aren't both siphon lines. Only the right one is. The other is an open channel that shouldn't have a valve on it. The siphon line should have a gate valve on it, as close to the bottom of the drain is as reasonable. They technically do not have to be below the water line to function, but they will be extremely loud and splash water everywhere. The siphon line needs to terminate just below the water line, so that it can easily purge all the air out of the line when it starts. The open line (left hand pipe) can end at any depth under the water.
Exotic Marine - I’m curious, for the overflow box drains: why do some companies use Uniseals instead of threaded bulkheads? What’s your preference? Real great job on this video. Hands down one the best reef plumbing videos I’ve seen.
This was a very helpful video. Planning to do this in a 720 gallon aquarium with flow rates at around 5000 gph. Would 2" siphon, open channel, and emergency drain be able to hand this amount of water flow?
@ ohmyheadd The answer is NO. First of all,a 2 inch unrestricted full siphon will only flow 2400gph max with a minimum 36 inch vertical drop. Anything less than 36 inches and it’s less than 2400gph. You would need to install two separate overflow boxes to get close to your 5000gph rate.
@@kennethfarley8347 thanks for the reply,. I actually have this setup right now. I have two jebao dcp 20, 000 running at max (around 5200 gph each). Head height is at least 6 feet so quite a distance. The 2" siphon is more than capable of handling both pumps. I figure the head height is so big that my pumps are probably not pushing anywhere close to what they are rated at. but who knows
Everyone uses Teflon tape and pipe dope on plastic threads. Not sure where they get that idea. Also, 2 45 vs 90 degree elbows have been found to have a negligible difference in flow
I am not really sure, but Lasco is one of the largest PVC plumbing manufactures in the Country, so I just go by what they say. I am also friends with several master plumbers they all agreed that this is basically right. A lot of people use tape, but it is not the proper procedure on PVC.
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 Seems the concern is probably overtightening due to lubrication. I've never actually had a PVC fitting split from overtightening though.
@@EricJohnson-dc2ej Neither have I, but I have heard of people that have. The paste is really easy to use, but messy. All things being equal, I don't really see any downside to using the paste over the tape.
So if I have holes drilled in the bottom of my tank I want the safe in line as low as it can go without actually touching the bottom? And how do I get the air out? Also if the power goes out well I have to re-safe in this?
@@GSP-76 Absolutely. Itnis the quietest on the market as well. The rear box sits higher, so you can run the water level higher in the box, and the total effective weir length is the longest out there as well. Only a c2c built in overflow give better performance. But those have their own issues. My goal was to make the best of borh worlds, and from people's response, I got pretty close.
www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-1-2-in-PVC-DWV-Hub-x-Hub-x-Cleanout-P-Trap-C4884HD112/100344828 I thought they looked cool, but honestly, the hole is too large that noise can get out. The best thing to do is buy them without it and drill a small hole in the top. Try it out, and if need be enlarge the hole a little. But when tuned properly (very little water flowing through open channel), you don't need a very large hole.
so if I'm using your style of overflow box with BA set up. what is the difference if i just put a strainer write on the bulkhead on the syphon line as opposed to a standpipe?
If sized properly it is not needed. People do that because they oversize the plumbing and it doesn't have enough velocity to push the water down and out. Don't use 1.5" pipes on the siphon line unless you are flowing more than 1200 GPH. A properly designed system wont fail. Holes can become clogged with algae or something else. If your system is dependent on it to function properly it could be bad.
I personally believe that unless it is a very small tank that Bean Animal is the only way to go. You really need a siphon and an open drain to make it "set it and forget it" simple.
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 so basically turn the drain into a bean, the one on right in that thumbnail, below the water line? All it is, is a u shaped PVC?
@@mogtrader8 You have to have three drain lines to be able to do a bean animal. You cannot do it with two. With two, it is basically a bean animal but without an emergency drain.
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 the eshop small overflow has only two drains. as such, should i go durso? i feel better keeping the emergency. but if u have any ideas, please let me know. thanks
@@mogtrader8 If you keep your flow levels at a point where the open channel can support the whole flow, then you pretty much have an emergency drain. In a normal mode, the siphon handles 99% of the flow and the open channel handles the other little bit. If the siphon gets clogged (either completely or partially), the open channel will handle more flow (loudly). The problem becomes when people operate at such a high flow that the siphon can handle it, but the open channel can't by itself. More than a few 100 GPH, it is impossible to make an open channel silent...
I have lots of questions... I want to put a sump on my 75 gallon freshwater planted tank, it is not drilled, and I want as little noise as possible. Point me in the right direction as I have no clue.
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 flow it has two 406's and an fx4 on it now. I try to keep the current going but the betta do not seem to like alot of flow, the corydoras, variety of tetras, and boat load of shrip love it
Why would you feed the emergency overflow back into the return compartment of the sump? Firstly, you would mix up clean and dirty sump water. Secondly, you would feed the water back into the system therefore voiding the function of the whole thing. I would feed it into an empty wastewater barrel otherwise used for water changes... Did I get something wrong here? 🤔
The purpose of the emergency drain is to process any water that cannot be drained through the two other drains. The reason I put them in the return section is because it makes it easier to plumb the system and keep the pipes out of the way. If you ran all three pipes to the drain section, they would be very crowded and would probably cover up some portion of the sock section, making them harder to remove. You do NOT want to drain your emergency drain outside the tank. It would do one of two things. First, the water level in the sump would lower to the point that the pump would draw in air and stop working. Secondly, your ATO would begin adding fresh water to offset the water loss. It would continue to run until the top off tank is empty, lowering your salinity. As far as draining dirty water in the back of the sump, this drain is for emergencies to keep your tank from overflowing onto the floor. Don't be too concerned about where it is located. You just want it to safely get your water into the sump in the event of a drain clog.
so you say dont use the gray 80 pipe it smaller ID but yet you use the internal thread of the bulkhead witch is a hole lot of a id reduction can you say contradiction
That is one of the reasons I suggested against using sch 80 plumbing. I just went and measured the restriction of the threaded coupling, and it reduced it down about 1/8" for about 1.5" of length. The restriction would not cause any significant reduction in flow for that little bit of distance. Now if it was for the entire length of pipe, it would add more. There are a few reasons we sale them with threaded bulkheads on the bottom. When you can thread into the bottom of the bulkhead, it removes the need to put a union under the box so that the plumbing can be removed for service. For certain shallow tanks, adding a union takes up too much vertical space, making it hard to mount a stand off at the top of the stand before angling the pipe into the stand. Also, a 1.5" union at Lowe's is over $8, so just removing those three pieces saves around $25 alone. I stand by my assertion that since the introduction of furniture grade sch 40 PVC, there aren't really any good reasons to use sch 80 pvc that would restrict flow and would probably never see more than 3-10 PSI.
In my experience, when you get a decent amount of flow going, it will create a little water tornado like you get in your bathtub. With the U pipe, you can flow a lot of water. Plus it helps with start up. It delays the siphon starting for a second or two and allow it to become full submerged. I don't know why, but it makes the surge finish faster.
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 makes sense now, the tornado part is the visualization I needed. I was going to set up my new overflow like a Herbie, just with 3 straight pipes in gradual lengths instead of the 2
it was worded in a strange way, but what they meant was there is no such thing as too big of diameter for downpipes without full siphon. the only time diameter can be too big is if your GPH is not enough to create the full siphon.
I have a 46g that im building a small sump for, and ive drilled a hope in the back for an overflow. Im planning to install a weir and use only a durso standpipe. Is it safe to do this without an emergency drain? I only really have space for the one hole since im drilled in the back corner and im limited for space.
People have been doing it for decades. It isn't as safe, but the vast majority of reef keepers have done it. The biggest issue is noise that can be created if there is too much flow. A 1" durso will not flow much water without making noise. HTH
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 I have it set up for 1.5 inches and am only planning to turn over 300-350 gph. Will it be more loud or less loud with larger diameter? Thanks for your response, by the way!
You should be pretty good with 1.5" It will also allow for a partial clog and still be able to flow enough water. Some times open channel lines can be about experimenting with the hole on the top. To small, and it can start a siphon. Too large and more noise can escape through the hole.
This is the only video that clearly explain in details of the Bean Animal Overflow System. It shows different scenarios and the pros and cons of the variations in plumbing. Appreciate this!
That is how you make a video to actually teach something
Its great that there is no skimmer, reactor, etc plumbing in the sight that the audience can actually focus on the drain plumbing
Thx for the video and keep up the good work.
5y old video and keep teaching ppl, great information directly to what you need and explain everything easy and clear!
Superbly professional, detailed, accurate and straight to the point with no extra filler. Thank you!
THIS! THIS VIDEO IS HANDS DOWN THE BEST I'VE WATCHED ON THIS TOPIC. You did a fantastic job explaining. Thank you so much.
Thanks for the kind words. I have several more in mind that should be coming out in the following months. New equipment coming in, new products..
Great video! One thing on the strapping, depending on the pad under the aquarium you might get a bit of compression as the tank fills up. This will apply pressure to the overflow box since your pipes are bolted to the stand which isn't moving as the tank compresses towards the stand. Might think about strapping after the tank is full.
This video had a lot of information as to what we should do, and why. This was the best information I've come across. Start to finish, covering every aspect of the install. Thank you!!
This old video is insane, details are exactly what i was looking for thank you
I read BeanAnimal's web page and forum thread, but this video explains the practical application much better. Thank you for a great video!
Why do the bulkheads come with slip connections now? I see a comment below that says they are threaded so there wouldn't be a need for unions immediately after the exterior box. Best video on UA-cam about this btw.
Agree... Best video on this topic. It took me a month of research and collecting info from different vids & forums to acquire all the best practices you have in this one video... esp. The siphon drain pipe 1-2" below the water line.. enough to quiet but not enough to prevent air purge. Also the gate valve at the end.. the more unrestricted pressure you can build up..the more you can get out of each size drain siphon. Same idea, even ifvgoing with 1" drain... you can plumb everything 1.5 until in the box and down the back and THEN reduce to 1" on drain once entering the sump/stand area.. this pressure will make it easier to start &vpurge your 1" main drain & maximize gph.
you won't gain gph by doing that as the tubing still ends with the same width it'll just add more weight to the suction
it's also what many people use in racks so they don't install drain boxes...
drill all tanks with 2, 2" holes one for overflow and another as backup
the 2" goes into 4-5" piping creating pull weight and this way they only need a sponge inside the tank...it requires less maintenance because of the gravity weight pull
each tank have a ball valve for the drain so that if a tank in the rack somewhere breaks...leaks whatever the reason...
close the valve and just unscrew the drain off the tank and replace it
this way the entire rack keeps running
the issue with that is that you need a much larger sump because the main drain pipe runs underwater so the sump will have to accommodate for that
or just use the entire bottom rack as the excess water hold backup...something like making the entire bottom rack a 'sump'
This is a much better video than most I have seen today for plumbing a new tank
Thank you for the video. I'm going to soon begin plumbing for my new 180g w/Trigger Systems sump and I'm terrified of screwing up my overflow and hard plumbing. This really helped.
I work for Spears and I would like to say they make any fittings you can think of. And all valves and such come with instructions on how to set and mount. And they sell thread sealant as well. I see custom manifolds and ect. Everyday they can make anything you need with pvc. Custom
One of the best video for plumbing setup
Can you elaborate on the gate valve location being as close to the end of the line (presumably the sump) as possible. I have heard the exact opposite of this and noticed in the video there is at least two shots where the gate valve is immediately off of the drain box (so very close to the beginning of the system). Thank you for taking the time to explain in more detail, I greatly appreciate it. I’ll be installing my new drain pipe next weekend so I want to plan for the “best practices”. 😊
Thanks for making this. It was the most helpful video on this subject I have found
Great video! Extremely informative and to the point yet easy to understand!
Great video my only complaint is the space left between the lines my ocd doesn't ever allow this simple method 😂 I have to run the lines as close to each other and matching as much as possible for a more clean open look but this works just fine if it visually doesn't bother you
Really well made and informative video. Nice job. Thanks
one of the best videos in teaching a sump setup!! thanks a lot for sharing. If you could just speak a little bit slower it will be even more perfect
picked up a 125g for free. The previous owner used this method but he has holes drilled into the top back of the tank. Just getting back into the hobby myself
Omg 🥲☺️😍 this is the BEST video existing! Thank you so much!
Best video on the topic by far. Well done!
Excellent video and info!
Questions: Can I plumb a bean animal overflow with flex pvc? Also, I'm planning a main floor display with a basement sump, and am wondering where the best place for the gate valve on the siphon line would be - still furthest to the bottom?
Great video. I would want to see your explanation on Herbie overflow and which one in your opinion is better ? Which one is quitter? Or perhaps Cons of Pros on both of them. Herbie vs Bean Animal overflow,
Really great and very informational video, Thank You!
hello thanks for the great explanation video, just a simple question, what is the size of the tank holes? does it matter if 1 inch or 1.5 inches?
Brilliant! Please bring back your sump kits!!
Best video ever
Excellent failsafe system!
Fantastic informative video thank you for sharing 👍
Nice video! How shall I size the plumbing for a 5500 lph (approx. 1500 gph) flow rate tank with bean animal? Are the 1" siphon line and two 1.25" for the emergency and open drain lines sufficient? Larger or smaller diameters than this?
Awesome and informative thanks
How to clean the internal box weird when it gets full of coraline/ other things?
This video is stellar!
I’d like your set up, where can I order that.? bulkhead and pipe
How do you adjust the water level of the aquarium?
Great Video - thanks.
Love this video. One of the best I have seen however, I'm confused! At 4:44 why doesn't the right hand overflow syphon to the bottom of the elbow? Surely the pump isn't replenishing faster than it drains. Thanks
Because the gate valve is still partially closed, limiting the amount of water that can flow through it. There is still some amount of water flowing down the open channel (center), so it is setting the height of the water in the box.
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 Ahhh. Great. Thanks for the reply.
So I'm all set up with the beanie. Do you have a video on tweeking it to syphon? I got it syphoning but when I drop the pump and turned it back on, it didn't syphon again. Thanks
@@nicwilliams00 I would need a little more information on your setup. But the usual culprits are using plumbing that is too large for the flow rate you have. Also, how far down into the sump water does your siphon line extend. You want it to only go down into the water about 1". Do you have the valve set up at the end of the line, or at the top right below the overflow. You want the valve as close to the sump as possible.
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 Hi thanks for reply. Pump is 1000l/h on a 95l display and 25l sump. All 3 lines are 1". Syphon line is 2.5" under water. I'll cut some off this to 1" today. Gate valve is 6" above water line. I need to order some more fitting for the elbows and tees in the OF box as I cut them down to see if that made a difference.
Great video!
Question:
1. Do both of the siphon lines need to be under water in the sump to make this overflow work?
2. Is one gate valve on the main siphon line good enough or do I need another one for the secondary line
They aren't both siphon lines. Only the right one is. The other is an open channel that shouldn't have a valve on it. The siphon line should have a gate valve on it, as close to the bottom of the drain is as reasonable. They technically do not have to be below the water line to function, but they will be extremely loud and splash water everywhere. The siphon line needs to terminate just below the water line, so that it can easily purge all the air out of the line when it starts. The open line (left hand pipe) can end at any depth under the water.
Lots of good info!
Great ideo - thank you!
Exotic Marine - I’m curious, for the overflow box drains: why do some companies use Uniseals instead of threaded bulkheads? What’s your preference?
Real great job on this video. Hands down one the best reef plumbing videos I’ve seen.
Only reason I can see is they are a lot cheaper.
How do you run this set up if you have 4 holes drilled?
Is there a drawing that you have of this plumbing system?
This was a very helpful video. Planning to do this in a 720 gallon aquarium with flow rates at around 5000 gph. Would 2" siphon, open channel, and emergency drain be able to hand this amount of water flow?
@ ohmyheadd The answer is NO.
First of all,a 2 inch unrestricted full siphon will only flow 2400gph max with a minimum 36 inch vertical drop.
Anything less than 36 inches and it’s less than 2400gph.
You would need to install two separate overflow boxes to get close to your 5000gph rate.
@@kennethfarley8347 thanks for the reply,. I actually have this setup right now. I have two jebao dcp 20, 000 running at max (around 5200 gph each). Head height is at least 6 feet so quite a distance. The 2" siphon is more than capable of handling both pumps. I figure the head height is so big that my pumps are probably not pushing anywhere close to what they are rated at. but who knows
Everyone uses Teflon tape and pipe dope on plastic threads. Not sure where they get that idea. Also, 2 45 vs 90 degree elbows have been found to have a negligible difference in flow
I am not really sure, but Lasco is one of the largest PVC plumbing manufactures in the Country, so I just go by what they say. I am also friends with several master plumbers they all agreed that this is basically right. A lot of people use tape, but it is not the proper procedure on PVC.
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 Seems the concern is probably overtightening due to lubrication. I've never actually had a PVC fitting split from overtightening though.
@@EricJohnson-dc2ej Neither have I, but I have heard of people that have. The paste is really easy to use, but messy. All things being equal, I don't really see any downside to using the paste over the tape.
freaken best videio ever
So if I have holes drilled in the bottom of my tank I want the safe in line as low as it can go without actually touching the bottom? And how do I get the air out? Also if the power goes out well I have to re-safe in this?
Why have a overflow box at all . You can strange away connect the outflow pipe to the hole on the tank ?
Yes, you can. If you don't mind your neighbors being able to hear it.
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 isn’t that kind of over reaction . how can my neighbour hear water flow in my tank ?
Great video!
Beautiful! Perfect!
Great video 👍
I'm buying your 1.5 inch overflow for a custom plywood tank that will be 380g.
Good deal!
@@tstanley01 Yeah really looking forward to it... hoping I can successfully get over 2000gph quietly.
My comment probably would have made more sense if I had changed profiles. I am exotic marine systems. Lol
@@tstanley01 hahaha...I figured you were from the company. Do you think I can get 2500gph or more with the 1.5 bulkhead kit?
@@GSP-76 Absolutely. Itnis the quietest on the market as well. The rear box sits higher, so you can run the water level higher in the box, and the total effective weir length is the longest out there as well. Only a c2c built in overflow give better performance. But those have their own issues. My goal was to make the best of borh worlds, and from people's response, I got pretty close.
Can someone post a link to the 2 180 sweep fittings that is shown in the beginning. Whats the one with the cap looking thing at the peak of the 180?
www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-1-2-in-PVC-DWV-Hub-x-Hub-x-Cleanout-P-Trap-C4884HD112/100344828
I thought they looked cool, but honestly, the hole is too large that noise can get out. The best thing to do is buy them without it and drill a small hole in the top. Try it out, and if need be enlarge the hole a little. But when tuned properly (very little water flowing through open channel), you don't need a very large hole.
so if I'm using your style of overflow box with BA set up. what is the difference if i just put a strainer write on the bulkhead on the syphon line as opposed to a standpipe?
Probably none. I will say that when not using the U, it seems to take longer to start the siphon and get the back box to a stable level.
Perfect!
Could a small hole be drilled into the top of the siphon line to suck out air or would this damage the system's ability to function in some way?
If sized properly it is not needed. People do that because they oversize the plumbing and it doesn't have enough velocity to push the water down and out. Don't use 1.5" pipes on the siphon line unless you are flowing more than 1200 GPH. A properly designed system wont fail. Holes can become clogged with algae or something else. If your system is dependent on it to function properly it could be bad.
great video!!!
greetings from mexico
I‘m looking at the eShopp Small design with just an emergency and a single drain. Should I just go bean style ? Thanks
I personally believe that unless it is a very small tank that Bean Animal is the only way to go. You really need a siphon and an open drain to make it "set it and forget it" simple.
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 so basically turn the drain into a bean, the one on right in that thumbnail, below the water line? All it is, is a u shaped PVC?
@@mogtrader8 You have to have three drain lines to be able to do a bean animal. You cannot do it with two. With two, it is basically a bean animal but without an emergency drain.
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 the eshop small overflow has only two drains. as such, should i go durso? i feel better keeping the emergency. but if u have any ideas, please let me know. thanks
@@mogtrader8 If you keep your flow levels at a point where the open channel can support the whole flow, then you pretty much have an emergency drain. In a normal mode, the siphon handles 99% of the flow and the open channel handles the other little bit. If the siphon gets clogged (either completely or partially), the open channel will handle more flow (loudly). The problem becomes when people operate at such a high flow that the siphon can handle it, but the open channel can't by itself. More than a few 100 GPH, it is impossible to make an open channel silent...
Can you add a link where you got the pvc support mounts. I can find the rod and clamps no problem, but can't seem to find the mounts anywhere. Thanks
m.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VALVE-3-8-in-to-3-8-in-dia-Steel-Ceiling-Flange/1244077
m.lowes.com/pd/AMERICAN-VALVE-3-8-in-to-3-8-in-dia-Malleable-Iron-Sidebeam-Connector/3223501
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 thank you! also check ur email!
cheap place to get 4 in bulkheads?
I have lots of questions... I want to put a sump on my 75 gallon freshwater planted tank, it is not drilled, and I want as little noise as possible. Point me in the right direction as I have no clue.
Any of our overflows would allow you to operate your system with little to no sounds. How much flow are you wanting to put through the system?
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 flow it has two 406's and an fx4 on it now. I try to keep the current going but the betta do not seem to like alot of flow, the corydoras, variety of tetras, and boat load of shrip love it
What's the name of the peice of pvc that let's the flow into the over flow?
Are you talking about the bulkhead fittings?
Why would you feed the emergency overflow back into the return compartment of the sump? Firstly, you would mix up clean and dirty sump water. Secondly, you would feed the water back into the system therefore voiding the function of the whole thing. I would feed it into an empty wastewater barrel otherwise used for water changes... Did I get something wrong here? 🤔
The purpose of the emergency drain is to process any water that cannot be drained through the two other drains. The reason I put them in the return section is because it makes it easier to plumb the system and keep the pipes out of the way. If you ran all three pipes to the drain section, they would be very crowded and would probably cover up some portion of the sock section, making them harder to remove. You do NOT want to drain your emergency drain outside the tank. It would do one of two things. First, the water level in the sump would lower to the point that the pump would draw in air and stop working. Secondly, your ATO would begin adding fresh water to offset the water loss. It would continue to run until the top off tank is empty, lowering your salinity. As far as draining dirty water in the back of the sump, this drain is for emergencies to keep your tank from overflowing onto the floor. Don't be too concerned about where it is located. You just want it to safely get your water into the sump in the event of a drain clog.
WOW, rick, this must be one of your very first videos before I re named it to Synergy?
We are not affiliated with Synergy or Rick
so you say dont use the gray 80 pipe it smaller ID but yet you use the internal thread of the bulkhead witch is a hole lot of a id reduction can you say contradiction
That is one of the reasons I suggested against using sch 80 plumbing. I just went and measured the restriction of the threaded coupling, and it reduced it down about 1/8" for about 1.5" of length. The restriction would not cause any significant reduction in flow for that little bit of distance. Now if it was for the entire length of pipe, it would add more. There are a few reasons we sale them with threaded bulkheads on the bottom. When you can thread into the bottom of the bulkhead, it removes the need to put a union under the box so that the plumbing can be removed for service. For certain shallow tanks, adding a union takes up too much vertical space, making it hard to mount a stand off at the top of the stand before angling the pipe into the stand. Also, a 1.5" union at Lowe's is over $8, so just removing those three pieces saves around $25 alone. I stand by my assertion that since the introduction of furniture grade sch 40 PVC, there aren't really any good reasons to use sch 80 pvc that would restrict flow and would probably never see more than 3-10 PSI.
Excelente
I don't get why you need the u shape on the primary drain line?
In my experience, when you get a decent amount of flow going, it will create a little water tornado like you get in your bathtub. With the U pipe, you can flow a lot of water. Plus it helps with start up. It delays the siphon starting for a second or two and allow it to become full submerged. I don't know why, but it makes the surge finish faster.
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 makes sense now, the tornado part is the visualization I needed. I was going to set up my new overflow like a Herbie, just with 3 straight pipes in gradual lengths instead of the 2
curious as to why the emergency pipe cannot be oversized?
It can. Its the siphon line that has to be sized according to the amount of water you are flowing.
it was worded in a strange way, but what they meant was there is no such thing as too big of diameter for downpipes without full siphon. the only time diameter can be too big is if your GPH is not enough to create the full siphon.
Yes, that is what I was saying, or atleast trying to say...LOL
ok yeah that's what i thought... emergency pipe can be as large as you want. thanks
I have a 46g that im building a small sump for, and ive drilled a hope in the back for an overflow. Im planning to install a weir and use only a durso standpipe. Is it safe to do this without an emergency drain? I only really have space for the one hole since im drilled in the back corner and im limited for space.
People have been doing it for decades. It isn't as safe, but the vast majority of reef keepers have done it. The biggest issue is noise that can be created if there is too much flow. A 1" durso will not flow much water without making noise. HTH
@@exoticmarinesystems7808 I have it set up for 1.5 inches and am only planning to turn over 300-350 gph. Will it be more loud or less loud with larger diameter?
Thanks for your response, by the way!
You should be pretty good with 1.5" It will also allow for a partial clog and still be able to flow enough water. Some times open channel lines can be about experimenting with the hole on the top. To small, and it can start a siphon. Too large and more noise can escape through the hole.