5 caps for the fvt littlebee and it so effn clean, i tried to remove 1 from bat lead and i can see some noise but 5 is perfect for fvt littlebee. It also solved my death roll and flip.
I don't know much about drones. have you ever considered adding an inline Shockey diode right before the capacitor for suppressing the EMF? I know you will have a voltage drop of around .25 volt but, you are using a voltage regulator anyways so it was Just a thought!
Please test the performance difference between long-legged capacitor, short-legged capacitor, capacitor with small gauge extension, capacitor with big gauge extension, capacitor with short extension and capacitor with long extension. Would make an interesting video.
I keep waiting for an EE to speak up on supply bypassing, but they seem to be conspiring to . remain mute. This is all pretty basic, undergrad level stuff for them. I'll try to fill in for actual knowledge. To over simplify, capacitors block DC, and pass AC. We connect them across supply rails to bypass noise ripple to ground. Half the story you already understand with low ESR. In fact, I suspect the difference with the multiple smaller caps is that ESR is much lower by presenting their ESR in parallel, rather than as a single lump. The other half is frequency response. The large electrolytics are not able to cope with the high frequency noise. You can fill in with additional smaller caps in the 1uF or 10uF range. I realize this video is a half year old now, but if you still have your scope and test rig, it would be useful to try a single electrolytic with very low ESR, AND a 1uF polyester film cap, plua a 10uF tantalum. My expectation is the combination should be as good as your 5x 470uF cans for much less size, weight, and expense.
I have been running 5S on 6 inch props for a year now, and placing a 50v 1000uf cap in the main line and each esc made the video crazy clear. People ask me how it is so clear, then I mention I am on 5S and jaws drop... NEED caps!
I like when people do things that push things to their limits and that say “let’s see what one more will do, or one less” it just changes things. To take things to perfection. NICE!
I use 4x330uf capacitors on my quad. When my cam was powered by the VTX, noise was worse than without any cap because arround 60% throttle I reached a special frequency with constant noise. Then I powered my cam directly from vbat and it was crystal clear. I did the camera control mod thought, which required a 1 uf cap.
great video but it's hard to say if the difference coming from 4 separate capacitors or just bigger capacitance - 1x1000uF , 4x470= 1880uF you should use 250uF x 4 for more accurate result
What I noticed when I got my first quad, Eachine racer 250, that had 4 x low esr smd capacitors on the base plate at each corner of the esc's .after a few crashes the video quality would deteriorate and when I checked the capacitor had broken free, I would re solder or replace them and signal would come back clear and the quad would behave ( no desyncs). I think if you don't suppress the noise, eventually it will kill your vtx or affect your FC.
Interesting. What are we seeing? The noise/modulation induced on the power line? What is your measurement point? The battery, the ESC or the FC? thanks. Small suggestion, keep the cap leads as short as possible.
This is insane!! What a massive difference. Plenty thanks for this hard work!! I heard that location of the lowESR cap makes a difference too. I wonder if you could do a simple test with just one ESC with the cap mounted at the ESC vs the battery connector to see if there is really a difference.
Old video i know. Have you ever tested the difference between 1 capacitor of different capacitance? Say 1 1000uf 35v vs 1 2200uf 35v? I have a noisey build that doesn't really have room for a cap on each esc, but i could increase the size capacitor on the pdb.
I was wondering lately, if it would be a good idea to put ceramic disc caps between the motor wires. Since the ESC Output is where the DC gets chopped then the filtering would happen even before the current enters the motor. Might result in smoother running motors. Or maybe you get some crazy resonaces, which would also be interesting. I would love to see a test. 😉
I've noticed people putting caps directly on the pads that you solder the VTX +/- to. Now, that will probably help video, but may not be noticeable in your tests because the cap isn't on anything that you're measuring.
Dude you must have used a new camera or something, the image quality is amazing, i noticed in the previous video as well... Also the editing is awesome... Keep up the great work man!
How do you determine the V and the uf of the capacitor that you need? Is it 2x your V output of the battery? The higher the uf the better? Can you fry something for not meeting the right criteria? Thank you for your time and effort 🤜🏻💥🤛🏻
Nice results and well explained. But for neatness, could you run maybe one capacitor say 1000 or 2000 and then run wires from each esc pad on the flight controller to the one cap? Would it interfere with the controls? Maybe worth a run on the test set up.
Try a Daewoo RSS 1000µF 35V directly to the battery leads, one Lelon 470µF 35V to the FC and a Rubicon 330µF 25V on the Video, that helped to clean up my noisy set up.
As for how to measure motor smoothness/behaviour more objectively. Maybe analyze the gyro signal from the fc (pre filtering) and or the recorded audio. Lot's of bad behavior is noticeable in a frequency plot in a sound editing program.
Please please please short video signals and check the difference. The noise may come from the video signal wire more than from the dc in. In addition you may try to use a clean source (other battery) for either the cam and vtx. Thanks a lot.
Yeah you should have tested 2000uf VS the 4 each 470uf to be fare. I find your test very interesting keep going. Also try the 4in1 esc like Dalrc and try to add a 1000uf...and best should be to find the cleanest power setup for the cam (LC filter or dc-dc convertor ...)
You can only do 5 caps with single escs right. Been having trouble with when I let off of a snap roll I lose video and everything is new except the motors and lipos. But my last build did the same thing and but it was kiss. I'm so tired of losing video lol.
What would you recommend for a 4in1 ESC (the Aikon you recently reviewed)? Put capacitors on the ESC pads to the motors or just one on the battery pads? And also which ones? 470er also? Thanks in advance!
How small can the 4 caps be on the ESCs to do the same effect compared to the one 1000uF ? This could tell whether the placement of the caps is important or the total amount of uF alltogether. I guess that 4x220uF is still better than one 1000uF cap on the battery-lead.
does the location(on the esc's vs the battery lead) make a difference, could i put 5x470 on the battery lead and get the same result as if i'd place them on each esc + one on the battery lead also, i have a theory, can you try different sized caps in paralel on the battery lead, like 80uf, 220 uf, 470uf and see if you get a cleaner channel, theory is that the small will take out the small spikes, medium will tackle the medium spikes so the big one can tackle the large spikes
Key takeaway seems to be for an ultralight race rig using a 4-in-1, a single 1000uf cap is worth adding. For all others, 5 caps is worth the extra effort for clean voltage to the FC and VTX. Great work as always.
When you do these tests you should do an overlay from worst on bottom to best on top. That would give better illustration of the differences. Also can you show us how to add additional caps to a 4 in 1 esc? Besides the single batt lead. There has to be a way.
Fantastic job, dude! Those results are really impressive! 😮 BTW, are there SMD low ESR capacitors? Because that would reduce a lot the weight... I don't know, it's just a crazy idea that come to mind.
But look thats not really a fair comparison. If you multiply 470uf by 5 its 2350uf. Thats way more than 1000uf. I would like to see a test 2.0 where the capcity of the capacitor(s) on the system is the same. Because I bet if its all the same capacity you wont get any spectcular results.
This was my idea by seeing this video. i want to give ElektroScope right. But by this i also want to see if you connect the 5x470uf on the battery lead. have a nice (test) day. your vids are interesting and useful for me. great job. (had subbed you month years ago) sorry for my bad english and greets from Black Forest Germany
Would be interesting to see you find the answer to least amount of extra capacitance which gives a good result (instead of finding perfection). I'm guessing 4x100uF on the ESCs might be good.
Ok but were are you suppose to mount the caps there just sticking up in the air? Taped to the underside of the arms? What about 4 in 1 esc? Were are we suppose to stick all these caps were they went get ripped off in a crash or make the quad look stupid lol u run with one Panasonic 1000mu on my main leads and I think if you have a pretty clean set up with decent electronics motors esc and flight controller gyro then one should be good then rite? The one one each esc may be over kill if you have a clean setup rite
what if we use like 20 pieces of 22pf ceramic capacitor? its weird in electronic we use ceramic capacitor to tune down noise but in quadcopter we use this big cylinder capacitor
Do a test with a pack of five 220uf caps on each ESC with a pack of five 470uf caps on the FC. Call the video Cap packs. And solder the caps along the ESC wires stacked next to each other close to the ESC so they are not all soldered to the same spot right on the ESC. Again solder them along the power wires up close to the ESC and not all soldered to the same point.
very interesting video! actually like most of your video's, but on this topic i have another possibility that i haven't seen anyone consider yet. what if you place 3 pcs of (SMD) capacitors between the three motor wires, right after the esc's as close to the motor as possible. if you allne the wires as the point of a triangle you can use the capacitors as the "legs" and since the ground function of the wires rotate as the motor turns this would mean there is always a ground. I could try this myself (was planning too) but i would need info on how to measure the results.
Hey Sam, any chance you could test this with 4in1 esc's? If 2 caps are better then 1, connecting them in series or parralel, if 2x470uF is better then 1x 1000uF.. that sort of thing.. could be pretty interresting now that alot of people are on the 4in1 train😁 keep up the great work bro🙌
As I mostly run 4 in 1 escs I'm interested to know if you can remove more noise with bigger/more caps on the battery leads. I mean the 5 cap setup has more than 2000uF so testing 2000 or 3000uF on the battery leads would be interesting to me.
So, Mr. Mesh... Is it the total capacity of the 4/5 caps or is it the placement, on thr ESC. Would it be the same to solder the caps at the PDB? Or maybe solder a 2000uf on the battery lead? Thanks.
would be interesting to see 4in1esc with 4 spots for low esr on each corner - than compare 4 470uf on each corner vs 1 2000uf on battery pads. - this way we could really check if it is better 4 small once than 1 big as rummers say. I'm saying here, because in your case your single 1000 was not on ESC - it was on a long cable too each esc (which we all know is less than ideal)
This is why I love your channel. I've heard the fifth cap should go on the battery lead near where it connects to the battery xt60. Also can you try the fifth being a 1000uf?
Been saying this for months nobody believes me. 1 cap on each ESC and 1 on battery input is the best way to go!! The noise comes from the ESCs so why not add the caps to the noise source? thanks for doing this test
Hey, Great stuff! You should also test a 25v 1000uf against a 35v 1000uf capacitor. I’ve read a lot of electricians say the capacitor works best when matched against the voltage that’s being used. So on a 4s setup a 25V capacitor should perform better than a 35V. The 470uf is a 25v capacitor. Now 4x 470uf is 1880uf of capacitance so of course it performs better than a 1000uf capacitor. But maybe it’s also gmhaving an advantage of the lower voltage rating. So again, I also thinks it’s interesting to test 2 x 1000uf 25V on the battery leads agains 4 x 480uf 25v on the ESC’s. I hope you are as curious as I am for this, and make a video about it.
Hey Drkaos Drkaos, thank you for your response. Could you explain why this is wrong? Or share documents or studies explaining why it is wrong? I would like to learn from this and understand why it is wrong.
Yes please give us a link on what is the best cap to use. I have three quads built identically with no caps. One quad has clean video, One quad has blurry/wavy video and the other has crazy static. I am watching this because i think my motor bells, bearings or fc could be causing electrical noise from crashes.
Hi dude ! I have a question.. Can i solder the capacitor on the PDB ? I mean on each corner, where each ESC are connected. Cause i don't have a lot of place on my arms.. Thx for the awnser dude ! 🙃
yup. My bfight 210 and my mini fight would produce quite a bit of noise when running 4s and when I throttled up hard so i put a 1000ruf on the bfight and a 470 on the mini fight and it cleared it up quite a bit. Just be careful and put shrink tubing on the wires of the capacitor. Mine was on good enough when i put it on my leader 120 and in a crash, the wires pushed down and touched the carbon and shorted. lol....it make quite the light and smoke show. haha
First time hook up a you t. .. At least last half of a yeahr, may even longer !! I reseave some esc normaly use x rotor from HB Wing i hafe flown di 30 amp ratit to 6s but jussr 2205 / 1700 want tu ugrgademy rooster to 6s cause somytime craaazy vlt sagg. Long storry short questen i order the motors an a couple spare to swap out. The haent enoughajn gaven me the 35 amp's can i mix them? Veeeery best vide can seeee reely you feel id !
I'm currently building a quadcopter with a Aikon ak32 35a 4-1 ESC, it's very tight build with no room for a cap at the stack. Do you think I will need a cap with the Aikon 4-1 ? Would a Panasonic 1000 cap soldered to the battery lead at the xt60 connect help at all?
Hope you can start testing 4in1 20mm ESC's soon, they are the future. Good that your are testing and keep it up. One small note that a couple of your latest videos have writing errors in them which is a shame
Understand but your test are very professional and something to be proud of. Because of small stuff like that people might think otherwise, thats how people work. Just feedback, nothing more. Keep up the good work!
ShawnzFPV there's no downside except that the 50v ones might be a bit bigger. 6s lipos charge up to 25.2v (assuming they're not HV), so a 25v cap should be fine.
Interesting! I've always overshot the voltage some to accommodate the spikes from the ESC(s). I've been using 25v and sometimes 35v caps for most of my 4s builds. I read someplace a recommendation to go for 50v caps for 6s. I should have come to the source for info!
So then is it cheaper to buy 20$ wraiths or cheap but still decent 10$ and throw caps on were you need them? It would run the weight up a little but save you a lot of money hmm
Ddraig62SPD I doubt it I heard those ESC are awesome I have tekko 32 35 amp 4 in 1 and was going to buy the wraiths next i still for peace of mind would rather have the best esc i could afford and add bnb one cap to main lead i add one cap to all my setups now just for good bbn practice
I'm pretty sure that Tekko32 are rebranded Wraith32. Reckon they should both have enough caps on board (based on the low noise results) but I always add one ESR cap across the LiPo on my builds. Have just bought some 330uF & 100uF ESRs from RS Online for back-up. Cheap as chips and free next day delivery :) Cheers!
Dude my fpv plane has 5x 1000uf 35v caps on each ESC and 9 470uf 25v caps along the long ESC power lines . There is also one 470uf 25v cap on the power lines right before the video transmitter. 6s 30,000 mAh li ion pack. My on board video recorder no longer has any glitches in the video. The transmitted video is nice and clean now too. See my videos. You Know if you used two 220uf caps on each ESC and x2 1000uf on the battery lead you would be shocked. The X2 1000uf caps recharge the 220uf caps fast and each set of the 220uf caps can discharge and recharge faster than a single 470uf cap. Making voltage very smooth. In fact if you use X5 220uf caps on each ESC and X4 or more 470uf caps on the main battery lead your noise would be near totally gone. Many smaller uf caps instead of one large cap can charge and discharge faster with less heat or resistance. Also more smaller caps you use the less each cap has to discharge meaning the less it has to go to get charged back up. This is called a cap pack. If you had a x5 200uf cap pack with a total of 1000uf it would work better than one single 1000uf cap. The reason is that the 5 smaller caps can charge and discharge faster than a single 1000uf cap and faster means smoother voltages. And that's what you are seeing in your test. It's not the size of the caps it's the number of them you used. Smaller caps can discharge faster and many of them in a pack is nothing short of awesome when each ESC has its own pack of caps.
5 caps for the fvt littlebee and it so effn clean, i tried to remove 1 from bat lead and i can see some noise but 5 is perfect for fvt littlebee. It also solved my death roll and flip.
Big credit to drone mesh for testing escs. I would not know how noisy fvt littlebee escs if it wasnt tested in this channel. Thank you so much!
I don't know much about drones. have you ever considered adding an inline Shockey diode right before the capacitor for suppressing the EMF?
I know you will have a voltage drop of around .25 volt but, you are using a voltage regulator anyways so it was Just a thought!
Please test the performance difference between long-legged capacitor, short-legged capacitor, capacitor with small gauge extension, capacitor with big gauge extension, capacitor with short extension and capacitor with long extension. Would make an interesting video.
I keep waiting for an EE to speak up on supply bypassing, but they seem to be conspiring to . remain mute. This is all pretty basic, undergrad level stuff for them. I'll try to fill in for actual knowledge.
To over simplify, capacitors block DC, and pass AC. We connect them across supply rails to bypass noise ripple to ground.
Half the story you already understand with low ESR. In fact, I suspect the difference with the multiple smaller caps is that ESR is much lower by presenting their ESR in parallel, rather than as a single lump.
The other half is frequency response. The large electrolytics are not able to cope with the high frequency noise. You can fill in with additional smaller caps in the 1uF or 10uF range.
I realize this video is a half year old now, but if you still have your scope and test rig, it would be useful to try a single electrolytic with very low ESR, AND a 1uF polyester film cap, plua a 10uF tantalum. My expectation is the combination should be as good as your 5x 470uF cans for much less size, weight, and expense.
I have been running 5S on 6 inch props for a year now, and placing a 50v 1000uf cap in the main line and each esc made the video crazy clear. People ask me how it is so clear, then I mention I am on 5S and jaws drop... NEED caps!
I like when people do things that push things to their limits and that say “let’s see what one more will do, or one less” it just changes things. To take things to perfection. NICE!
I use 4x330uf capacitors on my quad. When my cam was powered by the VTX, noise was worse than without any cap because arround 60% throttle I reached a special frequency with constant noise. Then I powered my cam directly from vbat and it was crystal clear. I did the camera control mod thought, which required a 1 uf cap.
great video but
it's hard to say if the difference coming from 4 separate capacitors or just bigger capacitance - 1x1000uF , 4x470= 1880uF
you should use 250uF x 4 for more accurate result
What I noticed when I got my first quad, Eachine racer 250, that had 4 x low esr smd capacitors on the base plate at each corner of the esc's .after a few crashes the video quality would deteriorate and when I checked the capacitor had broken free, I would re solder or replace them and signal would come back clear and the quad would behave ( no desyncs).
I think if you don't suppress the noise, eventually it will kill your vtx or affect your FC.
pablo Yes correct
Interesting. What are we seeing? The noise/modulation induced on the power line? What is your measurement point? The battery, the ESC or the FC? thanks. Small suggestion, keep the cap leads as short as possible.
This is insane!! What a massive difference. Plenty thanks for this hard work!! I heard that location of the lowESR cap makes a difference too. I wonder if you could do a simple test with just one ESC with the cap mounted at the ESC vs the battery connector to see if there is really a difference.
There should be a test measuring dependency of noise level on not only capacitance, but ESR as well
Old video i know. Have you ever tested the difference between 1 capacitor of different capacitance? Say 1 1000uf 35v vs 1 2200uf 35v? I have a noisey build that doesn't really have room for a cap on each esc, but i could increase the size capacitor on the pdb.
I was wondering lately, if it would be a good idea to put ceramic disc caps between the motor wires. Since the ESC Output is where the DC gets chopped then the filtering would happen even before the current enters the motor. Might result in smoother running motors. Or maybe you get some crazy resonaces, which would also be interesting. I would love to see a test. 😉
Great video! I would really love to see this same test at 75% throttle and take a hard object, "gate," and stop the motor with it
I've noticed people putting caps directly on the pads that you solder the VTX +/- to. Now, that will probably help video, but may not be noticeable in your tests because the cap isn't on anything that you're measuring.
Dude you must have used a new camera or something, the image quality is amazing, i noticed in the previous video as well...
Also the editing is awesome... Keep up the great work man!
Thanks for showing actual measurements. It's all guesswork until you measure. Thanks Siglent.
How do you determine the V and the uf of the capacitor that you need? Is it 2x your V output of the battery? The higher the uf the better? Can you fry something for not meeting the right criteria? Thank you for your time and effort 🤜🏻💥🤛🏻
Nice results and well explained. But for neatness, could you run maybe one capacitor say 1000 or 2000 and then run wires from each esc pad on the flight controller to the one cap? Would it interfere with the controls? Maybe worth a run on the test set up.
What capacitor should I use for this - HGLRC Titan Plus F460 Stack Airbus F4 Flight Controller OSD 60A Blheli_32 ESC
Try a Daewoo RSS 1000µF 35V directly to the battery leads, one Lelon 470µF 35V to the FC and a Rubicon 330µF 25V on the Video, that helped to clean up my noisy set up.
As for how to measure motor smoothness/behaviour more objectively.
Maybe analyze the gyro signal from the fc (pre filtering) and or the recorded audio. Lot's of bad behavior is noticeable in a frequency plot in a sound editing program.
Please please please short video signals and check the difference. The noise may come from the video signal wire more than from the dc in. In addition you may try to use a clean source (other battery) for either the cam and vtx. Thanks a lot.
Good job. It's always good to take care of the noise where it is created. This video shows that very well.
Yeah you should have tested 2000uf VS the 4 each 470uf to be fare. I find your test very interesting keep going. Also try the 4in1 esc like Dalrc and try to add a 1000uf...and best should be to find the cleanest power setup for the cam (LC filter or dc-dc convertor ...)
You can only do 5 caps with single escs right. Been having trouble with when I let off of a snap roll I lose video and everything is new except the motors and lipos. But my last build did the same thing and but it was kiss. I'm so tired of losing video lol.
What would you recommend for a 4in1 ESC (the Aikon you recently reviewed)?
Put capacitors on the ESC pads to the motors or just one on the battery pads?
And also which ones? 470er also?
Thanks in advance!
How small can the 4 caps be on the ESCs to do the same effect compared to the one 1000uF ?
This could tell whether the placement of the caps is important or the total amount of uF alltogether. I guess that 4x220uF is still better than one 1000uF cap on the battery-lead.
does the location(on the esc's vs the battery lead) make a difference, could i put 5x470 on the battery lead and get the same result as if i'd place them on each esc + one on the battery lead
also, i have a theory, can you try different sized caps in paralel on the battery lead, like 80uf, 220 uf, 470uf and see if you get a cleaner channel, theory is that the small will take out the small spikes, medium will tackle the medium spikes so the big one can tackle the large spikes
How can I replicate this test in the oscilloscope? Could you tell me which functions and connections to use?
Great video. Would like to see that comparison between low ESR Caps and a BEC that you mentioned in this video! Can't find it on your channel!
This is a really good channel!!! I like the work you do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
GREAT WORK
& GREAT CHANNEL!!!
👍😀👍
Key takeaway seems to be for an ultralight race rig using a 4-in-1, a single 1000uf cap is worth adding. For all others, 5 caps is worth the extra effort for clean voltage to the FC and VTX.
Great work as always.
question maybe i didnt listen hard enough. but what esc protocol are you running? dshot? would multi or proshot have less system noise?
Can you try one 2500uf and compare it to 5 capacitors?
When you do these tests you should do an overlay from worst on bottom to best on top. That would give better illustration of the differences. Also can you show us how to add additional caps to a 4 in 1 esc? Besides the single batt lead. There has to be a way.
Fantastic job, dude! Those results are really impressive! 😮
BTW, are there SMD low ESR capacitors? Because that would reduce a lot the weight... I don't know, it's just a crazy idea that come to mind.
Incredible difference!👍
@Drone Mesh is there any reason to not put a 1000uF on the XT60 and one 470uF on each ESC?
But look thats not really a fair comparison. If you multiply 470uf by 5 its 2350uf. Thats way more than 1000uf. I would like to see a test 2.0 where the capcity of the capacitor(s) on the system is the same. Because I bet if its all the same capacity you wont get any spectcular results.
ElektroScope Noted
I bet if you had three 330uF Vs one 1000uF, the three 330 would do the job better
This was my idea by seeing this video. i want to give ElektroScope right. But by this i also want to see if you connect the 5x470uf on the battery lead. have a nice (test) day. your vids are interesting and useful for me. great job. (had subbed you month years ago) sorry for my bad english and greets from Black Forest Germany
Would be interesting to see you find the answer to least amount of extra capacitance which gives a good result (instead of finding perfection).
I'm guessing 4x100uF on the ESCs might be good.
So what’s the answer to a 4in1.... 1000uf straight were the battery leads connect on the board?
Ok but were are you suppose to mount the caps there just sticking up in the air? Taped to the underside of the arms? What about 4 in 1 esc? Were are we suppose to stick all these caps were they went get ripped off in a crash or make the quad look stupid lol u run with one Panasonic 1000mu on my main leads and I think if you have a pretty clean set up with decent electronics motors esc and flight controller gyro then one should be good then rite? The one one each esc may be over kill if you have a clean setup rite
what if we use like 20 pieces of 22pf ceramic capacitor? its weird in electronic we use ceramic capacitor to tune down noise but in quadcopter we use this big cylinder capacitor
Great work! This takes the hobby to a new level. Keep it up! Subscribers going up!
Do a test with a pack of five 220uf caps on each ESC with a pack of five 470uf caps on the FC. Call the video Cap packs. And solder the caps along the ESC wires stacked next to each other close to the ESC so they are not all soldered to the same spot right on the ESC. Again solder them along the power wires up close to the ESC and not all soldered to the same point.
awesome video. Have you done any test on 4in1 esc and 470 vs 1000uf caps? thanks
very interesting video! actually like most of your video's, but on this topic i have another possibility that i haven't seen anyone consider yet.
what if you place 3 pcs of (SMD) capacitors between the three motor wires, right after the esc's as close to the motor as possible. if you allne the wires as the point of a triangle you can use the capacitors as the "legs" and since the ground function of the wires rotate as the motor turns this would mean there is always a ground. I could try this myself (was planning too) but i would need info on how to measure the results.
i got a PDB with 6 ESC Pads. Can i solder a cap to one of these free Pads or should i solder it directly to the xt60 pigtail?
This is amazing, truly a service to our beloved hobby!
Limit is when your XT60 velds itself with the initial spark, or the battery puffs due the inrush :D
Hey Sam, any chance you could test this with 4in1 esc's? If 2 caps are better then 1, connecting them in series or parralel, if 2x470uF is better then 1x 1000uF.. that sort of thing.. could be pretty interresting now that alot of people are on the 4in1 train😁 keep up the great work bro🙌
I've got a micro quad, so not a lot of room for a capacitor. What for capacitor do you recommend for these?
What about solid capacitor?
As I mostly run 4 in 1 escs I'm interested to know if you can remove more noise with bigger/more caps on the battery leads. I mean the 5 cap setup has more than 2000uF so testing 2000 or 3000uF on the battery leads would be interesting to me.
Realy good Test. I wanted test this on my own, but I had not the material.
So, Mr. Mesh... Is it the total capacity of the 4/5 caps or is it the placement, on thr ESC.
Would it be the same to solder the caps at the PDB? Or maybe solder a 2000uf on the battery lead?
Thanks.
I have 330uf caps on hand so I'll run a test with 4x 330uF same setup and 5x to compare with these 470uF
would be interesting to see 4in1esc with 4 spots for low esr on each corner - than compare 4 470uf on each corner vs 1 2000uf on battery pads. - this way we could really check if it is better 4 small once than 1 big as rummers say. I'm saying here, because in your case your single 1000 was not on ESC - it was on a long cable too each esc (which we all know is less than ideal)
do you recommend a 470 or 1000 on a hobbywing 60A ESC (6S)
Awesome test. Thanks.
More Drone Mesh...
Less parody Mesh and sales Mesh.
Whi not try in parralel with caps better for high freq, like ceramic or poly ?
This is why I love your channel. I've heard the fifth cap should go on the battery lead near where it connects to the battery xt60. Also can you try the fifth being a 1000uf?
Ok just buyed the 470 bubdle will add them to my build with dalrc aio. Nice video and test. Thx
can I install a capacitor to a 1s tinywhoop?
Could you do a comparison between a 1000uf 25V vs a 2000uf (or higher) 25V cap?
Will a dented capacitor cause noise?
If I put the Capacitor on top of my foxeerMix dvr or next to my Rx will this cause any interference or problems?
Hi wondered if you had any plans to compare zlh to zls capacitors?
Is the dalrc engine compatible with the hobbywing xrotor f4 flight controller? Because they have the same plus(as far as I know)
Been saying this for months nobody believes me. 1 cap on each ESC and 1 on battery input is the best way to go!! The noise comes from the ESCs so why not add the caps to the noise source? thanks for doing this test
Hey, Great stuff! You should also test a 25v 1000uf against a 35v 1000uf capacitor. I’ve read a lot of electricians say the capacitor works best when matched against the voltage that’s being used. So on a 4s setup a 25V capacitor should perform better than a 35V.
The 470uf is a 25v capacitor. Now 4x 470uf is 1880uf of capacitance so of course it performs better than a 1000uf capacitor. But maybe it’s also gmhaving an advantage of the lower voltage rating.
So again, I also thinks it’s interesting to test 2 x 1000uf 25V on the battery leads agains 4 x 480uf 25v on the ESC’s.
I hope you are as curious as I am for this, and make a video about it.
Hey Drkaos Drkaos, thank you for your response. Could you explain why this is wrong? Or share documents or studies explaining why it is wrong? I would like to learn from this and understand why it is wrong.
Yes please give us a link on what is the best cap to use. I have three quads built identically with no caps. One quad has clean video, One quad has blurry/wavy video and the other has crazy static. I am watching this because i think my motor bells, bearings or fc could be causing electrical noise from crashes.
Does it matter if the cap is at the esc or at the fc when putting a cap on each esc?
Hi dude ! I have a question.. Can i solder the capacitor on the PDB ? I mean on each corner, where each ESC are connected.
Cause i don't have a lot of place on my arms..
Thx for the awnser dude ! 🙃
Savinien Saucy Yes that should be fine.
I got the Panasonic's, they look about twice the size than that 470 brand you have :/ Still no difference, cant wait to use em.
What would you recommend on a micro?
Thanks for doing this. I ordered a bunch of them and will try and see if they make a big difference
Andre M yo any change?
yup. My bfight 210 and my mini fight would produce quite a bit of noise when running 4s and when I throttled up hard so i put a 1000ruf on the bfight and a 470 on the mini fight and it cleared it up quite a bit. Just be careful and put shrink tubing on the wires of the capacitor. Mine was on good enough when i put it on my leader 120 and in a crash, the wires pushed down and touched the carbon and shorted. lol....it make quite the light and smoke show. haha
Dude i truly love your work its proper top shelf !
What capacitor would you recommend for 4s?
How about 4x 470uf on esc's and a 1000uf on battery lead
First time hook up a you t. .. At least last half of a yeahr, may even longer !! I reseave some esc normaly use x rotor from HB Wing i hafe flown di 30 amp ratit to 6s but jussr 2205 / 1700 want tu ugrgademy rooster to 6s cause somytime craaazy vlt sagg. Long storry short questen i order the motors an a couple spare to swap out. The haent enoughajn gaven me the 35 amp's can i mix them? Veeeery best vide can seeee reely you feel id !
try a 2200uf on the input and see what you get
What about a 4in1?
Good video, looking forward to the next one.
it ne complete if you weight the capacitors
can u use it with 4s?
I'm currently building a quadcopter with a Aikon ak32 35a 4-1 ESC, it's very tight build with no room for a cap at the stack. Do you think I will need a cap with the Aikon 4-1 ? Would a Panasonic 1000 cap soldered to the battery lead at the xt60 connect help at all?
Crash-it FPV Yes it helps dramatically even a 470uF would help.
Thanks I'll fit a capacitor on the xt60 lead.
Drone Mesh I used the 330 capacitor included with the Aikon 4-1 hope it helps.
Hope you can start testing 4in1 20mm ESC's soon, they are the future. Good that your are testing and keep it up. One small note that a couple of your latest videos have writing errors in them which is a shame
You have no idea how long these tests take i will make writing errors every once in a while.
Understand but your test are very professional and something to be proud of. Because of small stuff like that people might think otherwise, thats how people work. Just feedback, nothing more. Keep up the good work!
Is there any downside or benefit of buying higher voltage csps? Like 50v vs 25v in case I want to run 6s at a later date?
ShawnzFPV there's no downside except that the 50v ones might be a bit bigger. 6s lipos charge up to 25.2v (assuming they're not HV), so a 25v cap should be fine.
Interesting! I've always overshot the voltage some to accommodate the spikes from the ESC(s).
I've been using 25v and sometimes 35v caps for most of my 4s builds. I read someplace a recommendation to go for 50v caps for 6s. I should have come to the source for info!
This video is super informative and helpful, thanks man!
Do one with electrolytic and ceramic capacitors!
The Link for the Panasonic 1000µF don`t work
@Drone Mesh ?
live streams ?
perhaps a test for low ESR capacitors with good ESCs to begin with so we can make a baseline of how much the benefit tapers off. :D
So then is it cheaper to buy 20$ wraiths or cheap but still decent 10$ and throw caps on were you need them? It would run the weight up a little but save you a lot of money hmm
My question as well. Just bought a set of Wraith32 V2 (low noise ESC) so wondering whether it's worth adding 4x ESR caps?
Ddraig62SPD I doubt it I heard those ESC are awesome I have tekko 32 35 amp 4 in 1 and was going to buy the wraiths next i still for peace of mind would rather have the best esc i could afford and add bnb one cap to main lead i add one cap to all my setups now just for good bbn practice
I'm pretty sure that Tekko32 are rebranded Wraith32. Reckon they should both have enough caps on board (based on the low noise results) but I always add one ESR cap across the LiPo on my builds. Have just bought some 330uF & 100uF ESRs from RS Online for back-up. Cheap as chips and free next day delivery :) Cheers!
Ddraig62SPD I didn't know that about the tekko and wraith being the same hmm cool
what about audio caps
You should test my setup:
racerstar ms 25a
Racerstar 2205 2600kv
And 4x1000uf 35v Sanyo cap on every esc
Dude my fpv plane has 5x 1000uf 35v caps on each ESC and 9 470uf 25v caps along the long ESC power lines . There is also one 470uf 25v cap on the power lines right before the video transmitter. 6s 30,000 mAh li ion pack. My on board video recorder no longer has any glitches in the video. The transmitted video is nice and clean now too. See my videos.
You Know if you used two 220uf caps on each ESC and x2 1000uf on the battery lead you would be shocked. The X2 1000uf caps recharge the 220uf caps fast and each set of the 220uf caps can discharge and recharge faster than a single 470uf cap. Making voltage very smooth. In fact if you use X5 220uf caps on each ESC and X4 or more 470uf caps on the main battery lead your noise would be near totally gone. Many smaller uf caps instead of one large cap can charge and discharge faster with less heat or resistance. Also more smaller caps you use the less each cap has to discharge meaning the less it has to go to get charged back up. This is called a cap pack. If you had a x5 200uf cap pack with a total of 1000uf it would work better than one single 1000uf cap. The reason is that the 5 smaller caps can charge and discharge faster than a single 1000uf cap and faster means smoother voltages. And that's what you are seeing in your test. It's not the size of the caps it's the number of them you used. Smaller caps can discharge faster and many of them in a pack is nothing short of awesome when each ESC has its own pack of caps.
I will try add 5 caps on tekko32 ESC
Awsome testing!