Hi Sophie, I'm delighted to have discovered your channel. Being a 70 year old stained glass novice, you're videos have helped me more than I can say. Thank you for being so generous with your knowledge and your time. You're a star 🌟
Hi Denise, I just accidentally deleted your last comment - it's been a long day!! You can practice your soldering without the glass... I'll try and do a short next week to show you what I mean. and my book is called Stained Glass, by Sophie D'Souza. What a perfect Christmas present ;-)
Hi Sophie, me again. I've been trying to find the angled nippers that you used to cut the heart from the lead. Please can you tell me the actual name of them? Are they specifically for stained glass leadwork? Thanks so much & I'm looking forward to my "surprise" copy of your book for Christmas 🤞🙏
@@deniserobertson729 Thanks for buying my book! I'd ring John at Reading Stained Glass for more details about the lead nippers. Mine are very old and grubby and I can't really tell you much about them.
I wish i had viewed this before I did some repair to one of my stained glass panels. The tricks you used to extract the broken piece were helpful. Great presentation. Thanks.
Hi Sophie, Thanks so much for the video. I have a window panel to repair - 2 parts of a fish with lots of solder joints. This will be put into a picture frame and then attached to the wall. Is the silicone way the best way or is there another stronger way I could do it? The client is concerned that grandchildren running into the frame might damage it. I seem to have spent an age trying to scrape out the cement whilst wondering how on earth to fit it back in. It's not too close to the edge either. Oh I wish I could send you a photo to help explain! Please can you help. Thanks so much!
Hi thanks again. What is the best solution to finding after leading and soldering that 1 piece of glass has slipper and is now a couple of mm short 😢.thank you
Try moving the piece to minimise the gap. Using a fid, carefully move the lead to also minimise the gap. Patch solder over the gap. Do not over clean the cement from the offending area. Good luck!
Thank you for this video! I always wondered how you guys did repairs! I’m looking for a video on how to clean 2 very dirty stain glass windows. They are old. What can I use to scrub around the edges of the glass to lead? Is Dish soap okay? Is it safe to wet down the whole window? Does it harm anything by putting water all over the glass and lead? If so, on average how long would I have to wait to be able to hang it up when dry? Thank you!
Hi I hope u don't mind me asking lots of questions? I've made a door panel and it's grown by 5mm! 😢 Do I de solder the end and readjust or wait and see when it comes to fit it?
I usually trim when I fit. If you are using 12mm perimeter lead - you should be able to remove 6mm when fitting - fingers crossed! and of course I don't mind you asking questions. That the point of the channel!
Amazing work could you tell me what do you call the white thing you rubbed on there before the solder and how did you polish the new lead to match the old lead?
@@SophiesStainedGlass I did not know tallow was used as flux. That’s pretty cool. Thanks so the information. I have some glass in my front door that’s built with brass H frame and I’m thinking about attempting it myself. The cost to have someone do it is half the cost of a new solid wood door like I have and I don’t want to buy a metal or fiberglass door.
Hi sir , I am very new for these kind of project , so kindly let me know the glass thickness n H lead strips H height n width for this project are used please
I wondered when you're we're going to cut your finger with the Stanley knife or the lead knife or with the glass when you've cleaned the glass or pushed the sealant onto place. The end result is nice but it's a really wonky job. You gave to be more careful and confident with these kind of tools and glass.
Ha ha ha, why do your tooth brushes keep breaking? I saw the on site door window repair and that brush broke also. You're too strong ;) Thanks for posting your repair videos. What if one doesn't have extra glass to cut a new piece? Can the broken glass be glued? What would you recommend?
Sophie, I just put a mini split AC unit on my GARAGE for about 600pounds.. Ya gotta get one for your studio, it's the best money you will ever spend! I bought mine on ebay and the install took me 2hrs.
@@SophiesStainedGlass and it's cheap to run too! I didn't get one with heat, which keeps the price and complexity down. Heat pumps can be unreliable. If you shop for one, keep in mind, 6000btu's of cooling will handle about 400sq feet. But don't be afraid to go too big. Better to have to turn it down if it gets too cold. My garage isn't even insulated and I don't care! It's 105 outside and I flip it on, after running for an hour, it's a nice and cool out there. When I leave for the night, I shut it off. Easy! I don't even see the difference on my power bill.
@@SophiesStainedGlass I was in the same boat. Now I want to get back out there and get to work. The mini split is awesome for small spaces. No ductwork to install, simple electrical hookup and only one hole in your wall. If ya don't have someone that can install it, call a local guy to see what he would charge to install one for you. BUY your unit online and save the big markup.😉
Nice way to keep the original "face" looking original by NOT altering the lead came there. I was a little surprised you did not stretch the new came before installing it, but I guess the parts are so small that stretching is not needed (don't know as I am pretty much a copper foil person). Perhaps the panel strength is a little reduced as those pieces are not as structurally solid. Again, the pieces are so small that may not be an issue. Thanks for the new "tip". BTW, I have seen a similar "glue" material used to mate two original pieces where the broken glass cannot be matched. The "glue" was placed at the break, and the two pieces were strongly taped together until "dry". They were then reset into the panel. The index of refraction of the "glue" was the same as the glass, so the break was hardly visible. Unfortunately I cannot remember the name of the "glue" product. Thanks again.
The new lead was only doing a cosmetic job - so I didn't stretch it . The adhesive gave the strength. I don't glue broken glass together - thats more of a conservation thing which I don't do.
Hi Sophie, you've given me many tips on leadlights. May I give a couple, always keep you hands and self behind whatever sharp tool your working with and screw a couple of stops the bench to hold work piece in place. You gave me the horrors watching that. 😲😬🙈 Also you can use stick on Decraled.
It's a miracle that you've still got all your fingers, using a snap off blade with that much pressure is a big NO, and cutting towards one's hands is pretty dangerous. Do you not box the panel up, it's moving all over the place !. I won't even get into the that repair, apart from a good example of things not to do.
Fair enough - I've been a wood carver since my teens so am fairly confident with my knife skills - but you are quite right, I am a bit caviller. And yes, I should have fixed the panel. As for this approach to repairing, it is not my usual approach but it has it's place. I discussed options with the client and he preferred this way. He was just mounting in a light box, he was putting glass behind it and it was a new and so very structurally sound panel. I always get comments when I take a non traditional approach in my work. As I have a background in stonemasonry, carpentry and general building, I have a lot of general experience to bring into play in my approach to problem solving with stained glass. I guess I just want to show people there is more than one approach.
@@SophiesStainedGlass Interesting to hear about your background as it's almost the same as mine. I worked as a building site joiner in the eighties (the only woman!) did a degree in Furniture Design when I was 50 & then a course in interior design and paint effects. My specialty became wood veneering which I loved. I'm retired now & we're renovating a 1930's house in Blackpool. I wanted to learn how to do the stained glass to replace some of the leaded lights. You've helped me enormously. Thank you so much 👍🥰
@@deniserobertson729 We do seem to have similar bents! I worked on building sites in the 80s but as a stone mason. The commercial carpentry I did was in peoples homes - wardrobes and shelves etc. Sounds like we'd have lots in common - have you seen the videos of me painting my kitchen walls to look like a Rousseau jungle?? And I was brought up in Southport!
Gotta tell you, I’ve been making, designing and manufacturing + repairing stained glass for over 30 years and in all that time, I have never seen a repair done like that. Why did you not take the panel apart, remove + replace the damaged piece, file the joints and resolder. Then re-cement using the correct lead cement and retaining the original came? That repair you’ve detailed is terrible. I honestly hope nobody takes this attempt seriously, we DO NOT complete leaded panels in that manner.😢
@terry4144 you've got to work on your manners. As for the repair I gather you think it should be repaired to the state it was before which would be more disruptive to the look and the client's wallet; a romantic notion. Silicone is an acceptable repair material. It's touched upon in the SGAA Technical Manual, and forms a strong bond with glass which is why it's used to hold aquariums together. This is not conservation work. I've seen this method before from other glaziers, and where they use copper foil, which in my view doesn't look as good. Go troll somewhere else.
Hi sir , I am very new for these kind of project , so kindly let me know the glass thickness n H lead strips H height n width for this project are used please
Its always nice to see how you can do a repair
Thankyou for sharing 😊
You are very welcome
Hi Sophie, I'm delighted to have discovered your channel. Being a 70 year old stained glass novice, you're videos have helped me more than I can say. Thank you for being so generous with your knowledge and your time. You're a star 🌟
Hi Denise, I just accidentally deleted your last comment - it's been a long day!! You can practice your soldering without the glass... I'll try and do a short next week to show you what I mean. and my book is called Stained Glass, by Sophie D'Souza. What a perfect Christmas present ;-)
@@SophiesStainedGlass Thank you Sophie; I really appreciate that ☺️
Hi Sophie, me again. I've been trying to find the angled nippers that you used to cut the heart from the lead. Please can you tell me the actual name of them? Are they specifically for stained glass leadwork?
Thanks so much & I'm looking forward to my "surprise" copy of your book for Christmas 🤞🙏
@@deniserobertson729 Thanks for buying my book! I'd ring John at Reading Stained Glass for more details about the lead nippers. Mine are very old and grubby and I can't really tell you much about them.
@@SophiesStainedGlass Thank you so much Sophie. I really appreciate that.
Hope you have a lovely Christmas and a wonderful, happy & healthy New Year 🙏
I wish i had viewed this before I did some repair to one of my stained glass panels. The tricks you used to extract the broken piece were helpful. Great presentation. Thanks.
@@vinceagnes thanks!
thank you that was really interesting and super informative - cheers
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful! Thanks for the detailed instructions.
You're welcome!
I have a stained glass window that needs a similar repair was wondering how to approach. Great tips! Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Sophie, Thanks so much for the video. I have a window panel to repair - 2 parts of a fish with lots of solder joints. This will be put into a picture frame and then attached to the wall. Is the silicone way the best way or is there another stronger way I could do it? The client is concerned that grandchildren running into the frame might damage it. I seem to have spent an age trying to scrape out the cement whilst wondering how on earth to fit it back in. It's not too close to the edge either. Oh I wish I could send you a photo to help explain! Please can you help. Thanks so much!
Please send me a picture dsouzasophie@yahoo.com
Hi thanks again. What is the best solution to finding after leading and soldering that 1 piece of glass has slipper and is now a couple of mm short 😢.thank you
Try moving the piece to minimise the gap. Using a fid, carefully move the lead to also minimise the gap. Patch solder over the gap. Do not over clean the cement from the offending area. Good luck!
Very nicely done.
Thank you for sharing
pleasure.
Are you using silicon glue?
Excellent tip. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
I didn't stretch the new lead as it was purely decorative. It was the adhesive that gave the strength.
Hi Sophie, loved this, will certainly use these tips on our next projects/ repairs. Ian, (Intensity glass)
:-)
What did you use to clean the lead?
I cleaned the joints back with a blade. The lead generally I cleaned up with my floor polisher.
This was helpful, thanks. I'm a novice. Are you rubbing flux onto the joins? TIA
Yes I am!
I am restoring an old stained glass window. What was that you trimmed and replaced on the top of your glass and soldered. Cheryl
Lead
Is it possible to fuse those two pieces together?
Fusing wouldn't be an option really.
Thank you for this video! I always wondered how you guys did repairs! I’m looking for a video on how to clean 2 very dirty stain glass windows. They are old. What can I use to scrub around the edges of the glass to lead? Is Dish soap okay? Is it safe to wet down the whole window? Does it harm anything by putting water all over the glass and lead? If so, on average how long would I have to wait to be able to hang it up when dry? Thank you!
soap and water is fine. Bicarb of soda is good too.
Could you say what the calking you are using is please.
Glazing silicone (if I remember correctly).
Can you provide a list of tools you use? Especially a good glass cutter. Love your videos!
Yes I canua-cam.com/video/aocBP4BLK3s/v-deo.html
Hi I hope u don't mind me asking lots of questions? I've made a door panel and it's grown by 5mm! 😢 Do I de solder the end and readjust or wait and see when it comes to fit it?
I usually trim when I fit. If you are using 12mm perimeter lead - you should be able to remove 6mm when fitting - fingers crossed! and of course I don't mind you asking questions. That the point of the channel!
@@SophiesStainedGlasswhat is perimeter lead? 😊
Amazing work could you tell me what do you call the white thing you rubbed on there before the solder and how did you polish the new lead to match the old lead?
The white thing is tallow (flux). I polish the lead with an electric floor polisher - but a scrubbing brush and elbow grease would do.
@@SophiesStainedGlass I did not know tallow was used as flux. That’s pretty cool. Thanks so the information. I have some glass in my front door that’s built with brass H frame and I’m thinking about attempting it myself. The cost to have someone do it is half the cost of a new solid wood door like I have and I don’t want to buy a metal or fiberglass door.
It's great to hear that you are keen to preserve the stained glass. Good luck!
Ok Sticks like. Should have waited to the end! Great show!
Thanks! 👍
Excellant video, thank you. I have been creating stained glass for 55 years and I learn something. Was that silicone adhesive?
Parabond transparent.
Hi sir , I am very new for these kind of project , so kindly let me know the glass thickness n H lead strips H height n width for this project are used please
Lead is available in different dimensions.
What is the name of the flux you use and where would I find it.
Tallow. Hard to find in the US.
I was very impressed.
Thank you!
Do you need to add any putty?
:-)
I wondered when you're we're going to cut your finger with the Stanley knife or the lead knife or with the glass when you've cleaned the glass or pushed the sealant onto place. The end result is nice but it's a really wonky job. You gave to be more careful and confident with these kind of tools and glass.
@@zsoltsimon3611 thanks for the suggestion.
Ha ha ha, why do your tooth brushes keep breaking? I saw the on site door window repair and that brush broke also. You're too strong ;)
Thanks for posting your repair videos.
What if one doesn't have extra glass to cut a new piece? Can the broken glass be glued? What would you recommend?
No... you need a new piece of glass.
Sophie, I just put a mini split AC unit on my GARAGE for about 600pounds.. Ya gotta get one for your studio, it's the best money you will ever spend! I bought mine on ebay and the install took me 2hrs.
I do suffer from deep AC envy... £600 seems very reasonable.
@@SophiesStainedGlass and it's cheap to run too! I didn't get one with heat, which keeps the price and complexity down. Heat pumps can be unreliable. If you shop for one, keep in mind, 6000btu's of cooling will handle about 400sq feet. But don't be afraid to go too big. Better to have to turn it down if it gets too cold. My garage isn't even insulated and I don't care! It's 105 outside and I flip it on, after running for an hour, it's a nice and cool out there. When I leave for the night, I shut it off. Easy! I don't even see the difference on my power bill.
@@jagboy69 interesting. I can't even use my workshop in the hottest weather these days so it might well be worthwhile.
@@SophiesStainedGlass I was in the same boat. Now I want to get back out there and get to work. The mini split is awesome for small spaces. No ductwork to install, simple electrical hookup and only one hole in your wall. If ya don't have someone that can install it, call a local guy to see what he would charge to install one for you. BUY your unit online and save the big markup.😉
🤩😎. Most impressive!
Thank you!
Nice way to keep the original "face" looking original by NOT altering the lead came there. I was a little surprised you did not stretch the new came before installing it, but I guess the parts are so small that stretching is not needed (don't know as I am pretty much a copper foil person). Perhaps the panel strength is a little reduced as those pieces are not as structurally solid. Again, the pieces are so small that may not be an issue. Thanks for the new "tip". BTW, I have seen a similar "glue" material used to mate two original pieces where the broken glass cannot be matched. The "glue" was placed at the break, and the two pieces were strongly taped together until "dry". They were then reset into the panel. The index of refraction of the "glue" was the same as the glass, so the break was hardly visible. Unfortunately I cannot remember the name of the "glue" product. Thanks again.
The new lead was only doing a cosmetic job - so I didn't stretch it . The adhesive gave the strength. I don't glue broken glass together - thats more of a conservation thing which I don't do.
Svp on ne peut pas avoir la traduction en français ??
I am sorry, I don't know how to. Can you tell me how?
Hi Sophie, you've given me many tips on leadlights. May I give a couple, always keep you hands and self behind whatever sharp tool your working with and screw a couple of stops the bench to hold work piece in place. You gave me the horrors watching that. 😲😬🙈 Also you can use stick on Decraled.
Can't argue with that! I can be a bit gung ho at times. My bad.
You could sharpen the lead knife!
Good point!
It's a miracle that you've still got all your fingers, using a snap off blade with that much pressure is a big NO, and cutting towards one's hands is pretty dangerous.
Do you not box the panel up, it's moving all over the place !.
I won't even get into the that repair, apart from a good example of things not to do.
Fair enough - I've been a wood carver since my teens so am fairly confident with my knife skills - but you are quite right, I am a bit caviller. And yes, I should have fixed the panel. As for this approach to repairing, it is not my usual approach but it has it's place. I discussed options with the client and he preferred this way. He was just mounting in a light box, he was putting glass behind it and it was a new and so very structurally sound panel. I always get comments when I take a non traditional approach in my work. As I have a background in stonemasonry, carpentry and general building, I have a lot of general experience to bring into play in my approach to problem solving with stained glass. I guess I just want to show people there is more than one approach.
@@SophiesStainedGlass Interesting to hear about your background as it's almost the same as mine. I worked as a building site joiner in the eighties (the only woman!) did a degree in Furniture Design when I was 50 & then a course in interior design and paint effects. My specialty became wood veneering which I loved. I'm retired now & we're renovating a 1930's house in Blackpool. I wanted to learn how to do the stained glass to replace some of the leaded lights. You've helped me enormously. Thank you so much 👍🥰
@@deniserobertson729 We do seem to have similar bents! I worked on building sites in the 80s but as a stone mason. The commercial carpentry I did was in peoples homes - wardrobes and shelves etc. Sounds like we'd have lots in common - have you seen the videos of me painting my kitchen walls to look like a Rousseau jungle?? And I was brought up in Southport!
Gotta tell you, I’ve been making, designing and manufacturing + repairing stained glass for over 30 years and in all that time, I have never seen a repair done like that.
Why did you not take the panel apart, remove + replace the damaged piece, file the joints and resolder. Then re-cement using the correct lead cement and retaining the original came?
That repair you’ve detailed is terrible.
I honestly hope nobody takes this attempt seriously, we DO NOT complete leaded panels in that manner.😢
The intrepid Sophie!
:-)
masakra
:-\
For safety reasons you learn how to use knife.
I can be a tad 'free' with my use of a knife!
Why didn’t you show us the finishing on the inside 🤔🤫😂
the worst repair I have ever seen
Perfectly acceptable for the context - but there's more than one opinion on everything.
Worst response to video ever. State what's wrong with her approach if you are going to critique otherwise its just trolling.
@@crypnosis9871 where would I start every thing about it is wrong
@terry4144 you've got to work on your manners. As for the repair I gather you think it should be repaired to the state it was before which would be more disruptive to the look and the client's wallet; a romantic notion. Silicone is an acceptable repair material. It's touched upon in the SGAA Technical Manual, and forms a strong bond with glass which is why it's used to hold aquariums together. This is not conservation work. I've seen this method before from other glaziers, and where they use copper foil, which in my view doesn't look as good. Go troll somewhere else.
Hi sir , I am very new for these kind of project , so kindly let me know the glass thickness n H lead strips H height n width for this project are used please
Height is about 7mm, width 6mm