Great video. I played it for the 16 electricians I have working for my electrical contracting business during a meeting. There were a few who didn't seem to understand that nowadays especially, it is very important to use a true rms amp meter. I made it mandatory upon hiring that all of my service electricians have a quality true rms amp meter. I started requiring this after spending money on an embarrasing call-back where the customer had a breaker tripping, and our electrician said the breaker was bad because their meter showed it was not loaded over its rating. Our electrician replaced an expensive breaker, left, and it tripped again because it was actually overloaded. Very similar situation to your test where one meter showed under 15 amps and the other showed over 20 amps. Also, using a non true rms meter can lead to you overloading an existing circuit with additional loads if you think the circuit has capacity left in it to use after checking its existing full load current. Thanks for the video, they needed to hear it from someone else also. It worked.
From what I understand, the cheap 35 bucks Amp meters from Amazon are not reliable to give accurate measurements. 💸 But the big question why would these companies made averaging meters if they're not accurate? 🤔 Thank you.
I literally was just explaining to wife why I was watching this video and used the whole 15A circuit overloading and then you said something very similar. :) I like you practical thinking.
Great video, I had no idea what the "True RMS" function was until watching this. Just ordered a UNI-T UT210 to replace my ancient Amprobe. Thanks a lot, man!
Thanks for the tip. I just bought a meter and quickly checked it was True RMS. Fortunately for me it was! Also, I've never seen an AC Line Splitter before, so that was really useful too. Just bought one of those as well. Great video!
Root Mean Square (RMS) is the same as the quadratic mean - or the square root of the mean square. The RMS we use in GIS-based mapping and data collection is the measure of imperfection of the fit of the estimator to the data. In this case, it is the value of the constant direct current that would generate the same dissipation in a resistive load. Same important statistical principle - but quite different applications. Thanks for the comparison to my non-RMS Klein multimeter (doh!). I'll keep that 40% correction in mind.
Excellent info. If the VFDs and inverters are installed wrong or are going bad, the dirty power harmonics can cause all kinds of problems on the line. 😎 Nice scope. ✨
+MultiMeter Channel Excellent video, and clearly explained to me how the current noise can be affected by electrical devices in an area, and therefore why a TrueRMS Clamp meter is the best option to have around for pretty much all circumstances. Sterling work!
+MultiMeter Channel In your opinion, would it generally be better to buy a clamp meter instead of a multimeter? Having looked at various clamp and multi meters, they seem to offer the same broad set of testing options and similar included attachments. The benefit with the clamp meter being... well, the clamping ability.
It's funny to read the comments. All the home owners and technicians that don't understand the different between average responding meters and RMS meters. By the way there isn't a distinction between True RMS and RMS. RMS is a mathematical definition. True RMS and RMS are EXACTLY the same. The RMS specification is why some meters cost more than other meters. It cost more to add the digital signal processing circuitry therefore those meters cost more. I can't tell you how many times as an electrical engineer I've seen electricians measure the current on the output of a VFD using an average responding meter. I always tell them to throw that piece of shit in the trash. Then I have to go out to my car and get my Fluke 87. I just roll my eyes at electricians. They think they know shit until they encounter and engineer who has to school them on the difference between RMS and Average. Unless you understand calculus you can forget trying to explain it to them.
bless your soul.....the best and educative info i have got this year when it comes to digital meters....the best i mean the very very very very best...thank you
This video is a great AMPERAGE/CURRENT AMP-CLAMP VIDEO. But: Q: WHEN is a NON-TRUE RMS VOLT meter, a better choice than a TRUE RMS meter?? A: Automotive alternator D.C. VOLTAGE OUTPUT measuring. Why? Alternator output should have only D.C., without any A.C. waveform, (called DIRTY D.C.), riding on top of the D.C. If an alternator diode set is bad, the dirty D.C. will NOT ALLOW a NON-TRUE-RMS voltmeter to SETTLE DOWN. The voltage display number will be erratic. BUT, a TRUE RMS meter, set to D.C. will settle down and FOOL YOU into thinking ALL IS GOOD, when in fact, the alternator is BAD.
thanks much for this excellent presentation. We've a 20 amp GFCI Siemen's circuit breaker that has been tripping for 10 days or so with 4 x 15 amp 2 port receptacles which has been fine for 2 years in our garage. There's only 2 x 2.7 amps garage door motors on this circuit plus a tool box with two surge protectors with nothing plugged in. Each time we open the garage door about 15 mins later the circuit trips and a reset is necessary. We just bought the CL900 by Klein, Line Splitter and the AFCI/GFCI Outlet tester. Hoping with these tools we can find the culprit.
It may just be a bad breaker. Also, since it is a GFCI, it may not be high current that is tripping it. To determine if it is high spikes, use the "Max" function of that CL900. It will capture any high current spikes that would cause tripping. If the breaker trips, and the Max function did not capture more than 20 Amps, then it is tripping from a Ground Fault.
@@MultiMeterChannel thanks for this. Will do on The Max setting and was wondering about an InRush check also which this has that feature. Got the clamp meter today and will try tomorrow. I did call Siemen's, they advised (since its a 20 amp circuit), unplug both garage motors and connect to 20 amp outlet in the house. I unplugged our dishwasher (on 20 amp), plugged in both garage motors and no tripping. Confirmed with Siemen's, it's the breaker but still will run above test you've suggested. Purchased a new QF120A CB. (PS the CL900 does not come with a lead holder as with earlier models and no magnetic backing - had to buy the accessory - and no alligator clips to attach to leads). Great videos.
old breaker removed successfully and replaced with QF120A . 4 hours so far no tripping issues. I did find potentially a loose screw connecting the neutral to the neutral buss on the old breaker which possibly was generating heat. No burns on old breaker. Admittedly not surprised as the electrician that wired our home did a very poor job in not adding up amps as other circuits previously kept tripping though due to overload.thx for your assistance
@@revup67 gfci outlets or breakers only tolerate about 250 milliamp of current leakage to the ground path before they trip. Thereby indicating an insulation failure in the device being used.
This is a great informational video. I have true Rms meters but still this helped me understand how important they are in comparison to non-true RMS meters. I have subscribed to your channel and look forward to other video's you produce. Thanks!!!
Hey buddy.... I'm looking for a good and safe clamp meter around the 150 dollar range and was looking at the Klein cl800 can you tell me if it's been a good clamp meter and what's the minimum current it can read from the clamp AC AND DC.... THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Great explanation. As long as I understand, if you want to measure only voltage, it doesn't matter if the bulb isn't incandescent (considering AC), but if you want to measure current, the possibilities of not having a sinusoidal signal are greater and it's better to use a true RMS clamp meter.
Erwin Luchtenberg That is correct, as long as your voltage is connected straight to your electrical panel. If the voltage you are measuring is coming from a dimmer switch, UPS backup, generator, solar panel inverter, or something other than straight off the electrical panel, then you may want a TRMS voltage measurement. See my other video on TRMS DMM’s.
@4:38 If you multiply 14.6 by .6 and add the result to the 14.6, you will get your approximate value of your true rms current. They are about 40% from true RMS I just read.
a true RMS meter is essential for old house remodeling. i have had calls before someone says my meter shows 120 volts but my light is not burning. but my RMS meter shows 70 volts which is most commonly a broken neutral.
THANK YOU, that's some wasted money waiting to happen and NO ONE has said a thing about True vs just RMS. I just like to know why the difference just in case it REALLY matters, I would say that's a big deal and it REALLY matters.
Excellent video. I have one line in my house on a 15 amp circuit that keeps tripping. The multi meter that I use tells me i'm good. So, I'm off to purchase a TRMS to check it out.
I've got a CL800 coming for Christmas. Glad to see it passes muster. What kind of scope is that and how does it measure current when hooked up in parallel? Coming from automotive* (DC) that's an interesting trick. All the current measuring devices I've seen are either inductive clamps or hooked up in series. *Working on an industrial electrician certificate, hence the new meter. Working on cars sucks. Do not recommend.
Please make an video for how to measure power for machine tools ( Milling, Turning) using these current clamps. I couldn't find this video on whole youtube. Its really important.
So if you had the flourescence and the incandesance on at the same time, you would still not capture the correct amp reading with a non true rms meter?
they could make an explanatory video of the cl2300. you don’t have a video for such a feature-rich tool, I bought a 2300 cl in Brazil, but I’ve already had problems with two that I will acquire ... one year of use ...
Many thanks for the simple but comprehensive explanation. Also, I've not come across an AC line splitter before. Am looking for a clamp meter that will also measure DC current too, and the TENMA 72-7226 is looking the likely purchase. It is also true RMS so a possible win win. Cheers.
Recently bought Meco 36 Auto BL TRMS with 6000 Counts clamp meter only problem i am facing is with and without connecting probe voltage of 3 mv and ampere of 40 mA...
Thanks for the nice video. If possible Pls make a video to measure voltage of VFD out put with ordinary multimeter and a multimeter with low pass filter.
I can't seem to find a line splitter like the one you used that can handle over 15 amps? What model ac line splitter are you using as I'd like to purchase the same one if possible? Thanks again for the informative video. And exactly how much amperage can (your exact true rms) ac clamp meter test with a ac line splitter
I had doubts with the Klein multi meter I bought with TruRMS feature. I haven't gone through all of your videos but I am confused about Amp reading with my space heater. The breaker trip when I have several devices with the space heater on. So I wanted to read the amp draw on the space heater wire. I put the clamp on the space heater black chord turn on the heater but it only reads various .013 A on the meter and not a 12 Amps. Is that how I read amps on space heater or any other appliance to check their Amp draw?
You sound like you know your meters. I'd like your input on my next new clamp meter. I'm current using a Milwaukee 2237-20 and I've had it going on 6 years but it ready to be replaced. I'm an electrician who is primarily involved in diagnostics in older residential applications so I use most every function on the milwaukee 2237-20 on a daily basis aside from the DC amps. I love the form factor, the display is wonderful and I actually use the led light but that bugger seems to take forever to take a measurement. It zeros before every measurement literally taking 3 seconds every time. Even the continuity pulse is slow. I need to replace the meter and I'd like something faster and a lot of the guys I work with use fluke but they are not as feature rich for the cost. I looked at possibly getting another milwaukee as well as meters from Fluke, Flir, Klein, Amprobe, Greenlee, Extech and others. The milwaukee 2237-20 cost me $225 Canadian but I'd go as high as $350. I need something that will handle adverse weather as I spend a fair bit of time outside. Moisture, dust and low temps are the daily norm. What meter models are out there that closely match my milwaukee but will read faster? Thanks, great channel!
A lot of electricians like the Fluke T5-600 and T5-1000. Can be had for $75-$140 depending on where you look. I suggest looking on Craigslist or eBay. www.electriciantalk.com/f14/best-multimeter-156897/ If you want something a little more fancy from Fluke, Check out the Fluke 376, 375 and 374. media.fluke.com/documents/3363537_6121_ENG_C_W.PDF Klein also has some pretty good clamp meters. Check out the Klein CL700 and CL800. I picked up my CL700 for like $40 brand new on eBay.
I'm installing roughly 50 linear LED lighting fixtures on 3 circuits in a 2 level parkade. Am I dealing with a distorted wave form here, will I get a much more accurate amperage draw reading with a True RMS meter?
+shawn shawn That is called a line splitter. Just do a search for it on Amazon. Not many retailers carry it. I do know Sears sold one, but I have not been there for years, so I don't know if they still do. Home Depot has one in a kit that comes with a Klein Tools Clamp, and a NCVT. That is a nice kit if you are looking for a Clamp too, but if you just want the splitter, that is not a good approach. Keep in mind, this is not really a tester. It just separates the hot and neutral wire so you can get a reading. You can do the same thing by cutting open a cheap extension cord. Here is a link to a video where I open one up, and explain what they do. ua-cam.com/video/xiY1v7dPavk/v-deo.html
MultiMeter Channel thanks again for the response and advice.I recently purchased a clamp meter and I was looking for a 240v line splitter . However, after watching the link you posted I'll just creat one with a plug and outlet . Keep uploading these clear videos, great job.
How does this compare to using a TRMS VOM with a mV to AAC current transducer such as the Redfish iDVM 510 with the IDVM 333 current clamp vs a straight TRMS clamp on meter? Do you get the same results?
Great educational info, thanks! - how about a video of measuring with VFD-suitable meter & not suitable? I'm mostly interested about the amperage measurement, how much can it differ?
Can you tell me which make & model of oscilloscope you are using? It looks like it may be a good one for my current needs with having two separate test areas. Thanks for the video.
Elliott The Ames 1000a is listed as TRMS on the website, and for a meter to sell for $120 at a place like Harbor Freight, it better be. However, I do not have that meter in my collection, so I can't verify if it is advertised correctly. The thing that stands out to me when I look at the Ames is the LACK of a safety rating. I would not consider it for that reason.
Federico Chiaravalli DC TRMS by itself does not exist. There are some meters the will read the DC and AC TRMS together (AC+DC TRMS). I was actually thinking about making my next video on that measurement.
Great video. I played it for the 16 electricians I have working for my electrical contracting business during a meeting. There were a few who didn't seem to understand that nowadays especially, it is very important to use a true rms amp meter. I made it mandatory upon hiring that all of my service electricians have a quality true rms amp meter. I started requiring this after spending money on an embarrasing call-back where the customer had a breaker tripping, and our electrician said the breaker was bad because their meter showed it was not loaded over its rating. Our electrician replaced an expensive breaker, left, and it tripped again because it was actually overloaded. Very similar situation to your test where one meter showed under 15 amps and the other showed over 20 amps.
Also, using a non true rms meter can lead to you overloading an existing circuit with additional loads if you think the circuit has capacity left in it to use after checking its existing full load current. Thanks for the video, they needed to hear it from someone else also. It worked.
This is one isolated incident. In reality how often you need TRMS multimeter.
@@chrishristov4482I got my meter at harbor freight for $20 and it’s good enough 😤
From what I understand, the cheap 35 bucks Amp meters from Amazon are not reliable to give accurate measurements. 💸 But the big question why would these companies made averaging meters if they're not accurate? 🤔
Thank you.
I literally was just explaining to wife why I was watching this video and used the whole 15A circuit overloading and then you said something very similar. :) I like you practical thinking.
I’m glad it was able to help you.
Great video, I had no idea what the "True RMS" function was until watching this. Just ordered a UNI-T UT210 to replace my ancient Amprobe. Thanks a lot, man!
Thanks for the tip. I just bought a meter and quickly checked it was True RMS. Fortunately for me it was! Also, I've never seen an AC Line Splitter before, so that was really useful too. Just bought one of those as well. Great video!
The 21 people that gave this video a thumbs down bought their multimeters from Radio Shack.
These new kids: "why would you have a shack full of radios... that doesn't make sense"
Hey dammit I miss RadioShack! 😄Sad they're out of business
Great no nonsense explanation.
I appreciate your tutorials and have learned a lot about dune and nonsine wave forms.
I appreciate you
Root Mean Square (RMS) is the same as the quadratic mean - or the square root of the mean square. The RMS we use in GIS-based mapping and data collection is the measure of imperfection of the fit of the estimator to the data. In this case, it is the value of the constant direct current that would generate the same dissipation in a resistive load. Same important statistical principle - but quite different applications. Thanks for the comparison to my non-RMS Klein multimeter (doh!). I'll keep that 40% correction in mind.
Thank you. Did not realize the effect of all my "switching" power supplies.
Excellent info. If the VFDs and inverters are installed wrong or are going bad, the dirty power harmonics can cause all kinds of problems on the line. 😎 Nice scope. ✨
+MultiMeter Channel Excellent video, and clearly explained to me how the current noise can be affected by electrical devices in an area, and therefore why a TrueRMS Clamp meter is the best option to have around for pretty much all circumstances. Sterling work!
+MultiMeter Channel In your opinion, would it generally be better to buy a clamp meter instead of a multimeter? Having looked at various clamp and multi meters, they seem to offer the same broad set of testing options and similar included attachments. The benefit with the clamp meter being... well, the clamping ability.
It's funny to read the comments. All the home owners and technicians that don't understand the different between average responding meters and RMS meters. By the way there isn't a distinction between True RMS and RMS. RMS is a mathematical definition. True RMS and RMS are EXACTLY the same. The RMS specification is why some meters cost more than other meters. It cost more to add the digital signal processing circuitry therefore those meters cost more. I can't tell you how many times as an electrical engineer I've seen electricians measure the current on the output of a VFD using an average responding meter. I always tell them to throw that piece of shit in the trash. Then I have to go out to my car and get my Fluke 87. I just roll my eyes at electricians. They think they know shit until they encounter and engineer who has to school them on the difference between RMS and Average. Unless you understand calculus you can forget trying to explain it to them.
bless your soul.....the best and educative info i have got this year when it comes to digital meters....the best i mean the very very very very best...thank you
I was thinking the same thing, the ONLY one who told us that out of hundreds of hours of videos on electronics...wow
This video is a great AMPERAGE/CURRENT AMP-CLAMP VIDEO. But:
Q: WHEN is a NON-TRUE RMS VOLT meter, a better choice than a TRUE RMS meter??
A: Automotive alternator D.C. VOLTAGE OUTPUT measuring. Why? Alternator output should have only D.C., without any A.C. waveform, (called DIRTY D.C.), riding on top of the D.C. If an alternator diode set is bad, the dirty D.C. will NOT ALLOW a NON-TRUE-RMS voltmeter to SETTLE DOWN. The voltage display number will be erratic. BUT, a TRUE RMS meter, set to D.C. will settle down and FOOL YOU into thinking ALL IS GOOD, when in fact, the alternator is BAD.
Very informative video. Wanted to see how the waveform looks when both the are bulbs are switched on :)
thanks much for this excellent presentation. We've a 20 amp GFCI Siemen's circuit breaker that has been tripping for 10 days or so with 4 x 15 amp 2 port receptacles which has been fine for 2 years in our garage. There's only 2 x 2.7 amps garage door motors on this circuit plus a tool box with two surge protectors with nothing plugged in. Each time we open the garage door about 15 mins later the circuit trips and a reset is necessary. We just bought the CL900 by Klein, Line Splitter and the AFCI/GFCI Outlet tester. Hoping with these tools we can find the culprit.
It may just be a bad breaker. Also, since it is a GFCI, it may not be high current that is tripping it. To determine if it is high spikes, use the "Max" function of that CL900. It will capture any high current spikes that would cause tripping. If the breaker trips, and the Max function did not capture more than 20 Amps, then it is tripping from a Ground Fault.
@@MultiMeterChannel thanks for this. Will do on The Max setting and was wondering about an InRush check also which this has that feature. Got the clamp meter today and will try tomorrow. I did call Siemen's, they advised (since its a 20 amp circuit), unplug both garage motors and connect to 20 amp outlet in the house. I unplugged our dishwasher (on 20 amp), plugged in both garage motors and no tripping. Confirmed with Siemen's, it's the breaker but still will run above test you've suggested. Purchased a new QF120A CB. (PS the CL900 does not come with a lead holder as with earlier models and no magnetic backing - had to buy the accessory - and no alligator clips to attach to leads). Great videos.
old breaker removed successfully and replaced with QF120A . 4 hours so far no tripping issues. I did find potentially a loose screw connecting the neutral to the neutral buss on the old breaker which possibly was generating heat. No burns on old breaker. Admittedly not surprised as the electrician that wired our home did a very poor job in not adding up amps as other circuits previously kept tripping though due to overload.thx for your assistance
@@revup67 gfci outlets or breakers only tolerate about 250 milliamp of current leakage to the ground path before they trip. Thereby indicating an insulation failure in the device being used.
That black thing you can clamp on is awesome! Great video
thanks for all your videos, it is very useful to understand the functions it comes with. thanks.
This is a great informational video. I have true Rms meters but still this helped me understand how important they are in comparison to non-true RMS meters. I have subscribed to your channel and look forward to other video's you produce. Thanks!!!
Hey buddy.... I'm looking for a good and safe clamp meter around the 150 dollar range and was looking at the Klein cl800 can you tell me if it's been a good clamp meter and what's the minimum current it can read from the clamp AC AND DC.... THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Much obliged. Short, informative and straightforward.
Great explanation. As long as I understand, if you want to measure only voltage, it doesn't matter if the bulb isn't incandescent (considering AC), but if you want to measure current, the possibilities of not having a sinusoidal signal are greater and it's better to use a true RMS clamp meter.
Erwin Luchtenberg
That is correct, as long as your voltage is connected straight to your electrical panel. If the voltage you are measuring is coming from a dimmer switch, UPS backup, generator, solar panel inverter, or something other than straight off the electrical panel, then you may want a TRMS voltage measurement. See my other video on TRMS DMM’s.
@@MultiMeterChannel Yes! I had already seen that video before and is very useful. Nice channel. :)
@4:38 If you multiply 14.6 by .6 and add the result to the 14.6, you will get your approximate value of your true rms current. They are about 40% from true RMS I just read.
a true RMS meter is essential for old house remodeling. i have had calls before someone says my meter shows 120 volts but my light is not burning. but my RMS meter shows 70 volts which is most commonly a broken neutral.
THANK YOU, that's some wasted money waiting to happen and NO ONE has said a thing about True vs just RMS. I just like to know why the difference just in case it REALLY matters, I would say that's a big deal and it REALLY matters.
Excellent video. I have one line in my house on a 15 amp circuit that keeps tripping. The multi meter that I use tells me i'm good. So, I'm off to purchase a TRMS to check it out.
like my last brain scan
I've got a CL800 coming for Christmas. Glad to see it passes muster.
What kind of scope is that and how does it measure current when hooked up in parallel? Coming from automotive* (DC) that's an interesting trick. All the current measuring devices I've seen are either inductive clamps or hooked up in series.
*Working on an industrial electrician certificate, hence the new meter. Working on cars sucks. Do not recommend.
Great video. Very clear and well explained. Thank you!
Great demonstration. I appreciate the comparisons.
Please make an video for how to measure power for machine tools ( Milling, Turning) using these current clamps. I couldn't find this video on whole youtube. Its really important.
now you tell me. I just ordered a RMS clampmeter. Update I just checked what I ordered and it IS true rms!!!
Thanks
Please can you show us the features of (cie 2609c) clamp meter
Best regards
Great video. Now I know what kind to buy for my need!
nice information, had no idea of the true RMS in my clamp meter
Eloquently and well-explainef. Thank you sir!!
Very excellent video.really appreciate for imparting useful information.
Awesome info. I'm a newby to electrics, so thanks for your work.
Excellent demonstration!!!
So if you had the flourescence and the incandesance on at the same time, you would still not capture the correct amp reading with a non true rms meter?
Pulse wave modulation PWM. Needs RMS. AKA switching power supply
I am wondering about a clamp-on ground resistance tester rms vs not rms thanks 😊
Amazing!! Could you tell more how it operates?
they could make an explanatory video of the cl2300. you don’t have a video for such a feature-rich tool, I bought a 2300 cl in Brazil, but I’ve already had problems with two that I will acquire ... one year of use ...
Many thanks for the simple but comprehensive explanation. Also, I've not come across an AC line splitter before. Am looking for a clamp meter that will also measure DC current too, and the TENMA 72-7226 is looking the likely purchase. It is also true RMS so a possible win win. Cheers.
Very nice demonstration.What will be the measurements of a single diode,half wave rectified mains voltage with an averaging and a true RMS multimeter?
I bought the Fluke 324 for £105. Deal!
Question - for testing and finding parasitic current draw on cars, am I right in thinking that true RMS meter is NOT required...? Mike
Recently bought Meco 36 Auto BL TRMS with 6000 Counts clamp meter only problem i am facing is with and without connecting probe voltage of 3 mv and ampere of 40 mA...
As useful a video as it gets. Thanks.
at 2:35 what is that black thing that the clampmeters are clipped on to? Whats it called and where can I get one? Thanks.
Thanks for the nice video. If possible Pls make a video to measure voltage of VFD out put with ordinary multimeter and a multimeter with low pass filter.
Where can I find such kind of 220V AC line splitter ? Thanks
u r great sir,,very good & simple explanation...
What is the brand and model of the line splitter you demonstrated in the video? The link to Amazon features a different product. Thank you.
I can't seem to find a line splitter like the one you used that can handle over 15 amps? What model ac line splitter are you using as I'd like to purchase the same one if possible? Thanks again for the informative video. And exactly how much amperage can (your exact true rms) ac clamp meter test with a ac line splitter
A very helpful information. thanks. Out of my curiosity, MCB rating is based on what type of amp rating? RMS or trms?
Very informative video. Can you tell me if the Fieldpiece SC640 measures true RMS current using the inductive clamp?
+Steven Nahulak
Yes, the Fieldpiece is TRMS with the clamp
Could you pls let me know the brand and the model of the Oscope that you’re using in this video? Thanks 🙏🏼
I like your videos I'm interested in buying a Klein clamp meter ..
Great video! What is your opinion on the fluke 325 vs 902 and the t5-1000
Thank you. Learn something new today.
What scope meter is that? I’ve been looking for one to help diagnose single phase power quality problems, and that looks like it fits the bill.
KEYSIGHT U1620A Handheld Digital Oscilloscope, 200MHz
What about DC current? I rarely measure anything that is ac. I normally look at 8-25v 20-200A DC
I had doubts with the Klein multi meter I bought with TruRMS feature. I haven't gone through all of your videos but I am confused about Amp reading with my space heater. The breaker trip when I have several devices with the space heater on. So I wanted to read the amp draw on the space heater wire. I put the clamp on the space heater black chord turn on the heater but it only reads various .013 A on the meter and not a 12 Amps. Is that how I read amps on space heater or any other appliance to check their Amp draw?
You sound like you know your meters. I'd like your input on my next new clamp meter. I'm current using a Milwaukee 2237-20 and I've had it going on 6 years but it ready to be replaced. I'm an electrician who is primarily involved in diagnostics in older residential applications so I use most every function on the milwaukee 2237-20 on a daily basis aside from the DC amps. I love the form factor, the display is wonderful and I actually use the led light but that bugger seems to take forever to take a measurement. It zeros before every measurement literally taking 3 seconds every time. Even the continuity pulse is slow. I need to replace the meter and I'd like something faster and a lot of the guys I work with use fluke but they are not as feature rich for the cost.
I looked at possibly getting another milwaukee as well as meters from Fluke, Flir, Klein, Amprobe, Greenlee, Extech and others. The milwaukee 2237-20 cost me $225 Canadian but I'd go as high as $350. I need something that will handle adverse weather as I spend a fair bit of time outside. Moisture, dust and low temps are the daily norm. What meter models are out there that closely match my milwaukee but will read faster?
Thanks, great channel!
A lot of electricians like the Fluke T5-600 and T5-1000. Can be had for $75-$140 depending on where you look. I suggest looking on Craigslist or eBay.
www.electriciantalk.com/f14/best-multimeter-156897/
If you want something a little more fancy from Fluke, Check out the Fluke 376, 375 and 374.
media.fluke.com/documents/3363537_6121_ENG_C_W.PDF
Klein also has some pretty good clamp meters. Check out the Klein CL700 and CL800. I picked up my CL700 for like $40 brand new on eBay.
I'm installing roughly 50 linear LED lighting fixtures on 3 circuits in a 2 level parkade. Am I dealing with a distorted wave form here, will I get a much more accurate amperage draw reading with a True RMS meter?
Real Estate & Renos TRMS is always preferable. The difference in price between an averaging meter and a TRMS meter is negligible. Get the true RMS.
Very enlightening!
Hmmm.. Ok, but would that work the same way if I just add + 25% to the readings of a standard RMS meter instead?..
Cool educational video , i've learned alot watching this. Where can I get this tester you clamped the Amp meter too?
+shawn shawn
That is called a line splitter. Just do a search for it on Amazon. Not many retailers carry it. I do know Sears sold one, but I have not been there for years, so I don't know if they still do. Home Depot has one in a kit that comes with a Klein Tools Clamp, and a NCVT. That is a nice kit if you are looking for a Clamp too, but if you just want the splitter, that is not a good approach.
Keep in mind, this is not really a tester. It just separates the hot and neutral wire so you can get a reading. You can do the same thing by cutting open a cheap extension cord.
Here is a link to a video where I open one up, and explain what they do.
ua-cam.com/video/xiY1v7dPavk/v-deo.html
MultiMeter Channel thanks again for the response and advice.I recently purchased a clamp meter and I was looking for a 240v line splitter . However, after watching the link you posted I'll just creat one with a plug and outlet . Keep uploading these clear videos, great job.
Excellent video. Learned a lot. Thanks.
True RMS for HVAC technicians that work with many electronics that have maybe potential for interference
how about those new smart multimeters that are true rms and they also have functions like clamp meter are they like true rms clamp meters?
Great! Another wonderful video!! thank you for sharing!!!
now, it makes sense...
Thanks for the video thanks for the explanation.
Awesome simple and concise
Great explanation!
Great video man! Very informative 👍😁👍.
How does this compare to using a TRMS VOM with a mV to AAC current transducer such as the Redfish iDVM 510 with the IDVM 333 current clamp vs a straight TRMS clamp on meter? Do you get the same results?
Great info bro...keep up the good work...
Is the Klein CL 700 a good True RMS Meter to use for home inspections?
I hate asking off topic but how do you calculate the series resistor resistance for the current you are measuring?
Great educational info, thanks! - how about a video of measuring with VFD-suitable meter & not suitable? I'm mostly interested about the amperage measurement, how much can it differ?
+kuvittelija
Thanks for the suggestion. Most Clamp Meters are not VFD capable. I'll check my inventory, and see if I have one.
+kuvittelija
The link to the VFD video is belowua-cam.com/video/5ZHqNW69eCw/v-deo.html
MultiMeter Channel Thank You!!! ☺️
Can you tell me which make & model of oscilloscope you are using? It looks like it may be a good one for my current needs with having two separate test areas. Thanks for the video.
It's an Agilent U1620.
Thanks
are we when mesurement to inverter compressore (for HVAC)
are we use True rms clamp meter for voltaj
what is your take on bside acm03 and meterk4000 clamp meters?
+Mnobody83
Sorry, but I don't own either of those Meters, so I can't give an opinion.
Very helfull information. Thank you very much.
Very well presented. learnt smthing.
When you had your oscope across the resistor to show waveform was it in volts or amps?
Great content thank you 😊 🙏 👍 👏
So if you have a true rms multimeter and you use an amp clamp attachment does that make it a true rms clamp meter
Pete H
Yes, you would get a TRMS current reading that way.
What about cheap watt meters from ebay? I doubt its TRMS. If not, then it is useless and you can only measure power of traditional bulb or toaster?
Good info.TU. i just got a clamp meter that is advertised as true RMS but no way of knowing if it is.
+WV591
What is the brand? I may have it, and can confirm for you.
MultiMeter Channel is Ames 1000a true rms?
Elliott
The Ames 1000a is listed as TRMS on the website, and for a meter to sell for $120 at a place like Harbor Freight, it better be. However, I do not have that meter in my collection, so I can't verify if it is advertised correctly. The thing that stands out to me when I look at the Ames is the LACK of a safety rating. I would not consider it for that reason.
Very nice, thank you.
This only applies to AC right? DC 'true RMS' don't exist?
Federico Chiaravalli
DC TRMS by itself does not exist. There are some meters the will read the DC and AC TRMS together (AC+DC TRMS). I was actually thinking about making my next video on that measurement.
what is the resistance and wattage of the resistor used? thanks
+wire54321
I used a 1 ohm resistor. The wattage you need will depend on what load you want to use.
Excellent information
😀👍🏿Good Stuff,GreatTips
Looking to get one, you recommend Fluke 323 or a Klein cl800?
For features/functions vs price, I would get the CL800
Great video
Excellent