@@lindsayadlerphoto one day I hope to meet you. If you ever have a second out of your day to leave a critique on my photos @zrowedaartist it would mean the world to me
Excellent video and most importantly the delivery. No awful UA-cam content creator jump cuts every two seconds! High production values make a huge difference. Well done.
You're not just a talented photographer but you're also a talented teacher. You explain stuff in so much detail but at the same time you make it so clear for everyone.
Amazing video! I learn so much in every one of your videos. But I love the fall off though. Im just teasing you, i understand that its all personal preference. 😉😃☺️
Great to see someone addressed this in a video so effectively. I try to explain it to people by saying it’s like opening a gate and letting a horse in, once the horse is in (obviously the flash is an analogy for the horse) it doesn’t matter how long you stand around with the gate open.. the horse is already in the field! That said I once did some tests in my studio with no ambient light whatsoever and a single strobe/modifier and as I went down from the classic 1/200th sec into the 30/50th sec setting you could clearly see the white walls of the studio and various bits of furniture that were invisible at 1/200th start to gently show up. Sent the results to a friend of mine who is one of the leading commercial photographers in the world and he said he didn’t even want to think about it as it did his head in! 😳😂
I love getting notified of your videos! Your makeup is FLAWLESS as usual! You really do have a gift to facilitate complicated concepts and Ideas and processes in a simplified, unintimidating manner. Thank you for existing, you have made a photographer out of me!
I've been shooting for 11 years and today I finally learn about this for the first time. It's been a trial and error all this time (sorta... you always keep learning and trying new things and I'm glad I'm still doing that because it led to learn this important fundamental). Thank you!
This is genuinely one of the best videos I’ve seen explaining anything…. And I’m an experienced photographer lol but i still feel like I learned something! Great stuff
Hi Lindsay. I met you all be it very briefly when you visited NZ for the conference, and of course, seen your work on CreativeLive way before that too. Great to see your teachings on youtube. You rock 😀 Thanks for sharing.
A very good and important tutorial, especially for the many hobby photographers who try studio photography with their speedlites in the living room. Especially with the explanations and examples of the influence of a significantly longer exposure time than the synch speed, in my opinion it is important to say that the "Profoto D2" used is a TTL stobe and is apparently also used in TTL mode, as far as I can judge this with my limited knowledge, and that is the reason why, for example, a changed exposure time has no influence on the illumination by the flash, because the TTL mode always provides the right amount of light, which can be seen on the left half of the model's face. (Or have I overlooked something here or, unfortunately, still not understood it correctly?) I`m living in Germany and in many German-language tutorials on the topic of studio lighting especially with speedlites the TTL mode is always advised against because from their point of view this is really not a mode for professionals but only for amateurs and beginners who are not familiar with the topic. These German "experts" also say that also in the studio when shooting portraits for instance you should only take photos with the aperture wide open because of the strong bokeh and in their opinion only photos with a lot of bokeh are really good photos and therefore f1.4 is the most popular aperture of many German studio portrait and model photographers at least if you want to believe their tutorials ... but the photos in their portfolios on the internet usually don't look like they were just all photographed only with f1.4.
Thanks a lot Lindsay, for your great, accurate, more details, comprehensive teaching.. finally I really understood how the aperture , shutters, and ISO iworks,. Thank you for your time and knowledge...
im not a Wedding photographer and my market is so jacked up, i dont get a lot of Portrait work either so i didnt go to WPPI a couple of weeks ago but i SO WOULD LOVE to shoot with you...
Wow what an amazing tutorial. Flash photography is intimidating because not only do you have to understand theory like light and distance, you need the hands on experience. I'm trying to move beyond trial and error with studio lighting. Still using speedlites and modifiers because of budget. A light meter helped take some guesswork out as well as modeling light.
I understood everything you explained. I don't shoot much studio work at all, but I do shoot headshots from time to time and this was really helpful. I'm going to have to experiment a lot and have fun doing it. Thanks you!
Awesome video as usual. You quickly passed over a lesson I wish I learned a long time ago. I shoot with speed lights frequently in the studio. I can’t tell you how many times I have over heated speed lights and had to quit until they cooled down. I was so fearful of raising my iso. Everybody always teaches keep iso at 100. So my speed lights were firing at full power. So just to repeat Lindsey’s tip… when shooting with speed lights in studio boost that iso as much as your camera can handle to get a clean image. Then you won’t over heat your speed lights all the time. Thanks Lindsey. 😀 📸
Sharpness depends on the higher F number? Like F11 ? And also while shooting 5 ppl together is it the same? Where should I focus when shooting 5 ppl together Gears I use -canon 80d , 50mm lens 1.8 , profotob10, silver umbrella
The middle of the lens aperture is usually considered sharpest (like f8 or f11) on most lenses, but to be honest a lot of lenses these days are pretty darn sharp throughout-- especially the canon RF lenses. So honestly it depends. With 5 people you will want to make sure there isn't too much depth -- aka too many layers of people. Keep everyone's face on the same plane. Be sure to check out my creativeLIVE class on photographing groups for more.
I don't know if it's just me, but I can't focus on what you're saying( even though you're explaining it sooo clear), because I am simply mesmerised by your beautiful face 🥰😍😍😍. It's as if I get lost... One of the best photography mentors ever. I really do love your work and the value that you bring out there. 💗💗💗
Yes. Thank you for saying this. If I ever inquire about a photo by someone else I always ask what the camera and lens is because that makes more sense than the exposure settings. Great video! (also, coincidentally, off to find out what lens you used here, just for curiosity's sake haha)
finally someone said it!! :D also this meets me at a perfect timing, as i'm about to start teaching myself - and now i'm pondering for 5 minutes already WHY people ask about camera settings, and what to actually answer to them
I totally get why people ask but there are soo sooo many aspects to photography that settings aren't the main thing to be focused on (no pun intended lol.
@@lindsayadlerphoto In tutorials about the studio and flash lighting there does not seem to be any more important information for many hobby photographers than the camera settings used by professional photographers.
Thanks for another great presentation and for bringing clarity to the photographic process. I never knew of the term "equivalent exposure." However, prior to watching this video I conducted the same experience and realized that I had a couple of options available depending on how I set my variables within the exposure triangle.
Cant thank you enough for this info Lindsay. You have always explained in a very understandable and fun way all this lighting thing lol.. thank you once again. I hope one day to shake your hand and thank you in person. Stay well. Blessings.
I find that wide open in the studio can be quite distracting as sometimes only 1 eye is in focus and there is a lot of detail loss in earrings and clothes. Unless it's specific a shallow depth of field shot which is rate, I rarely shoot below f8, to make sure the image is clean and in focus. It's just my opinion. Outside it can be different as the shallow dept can be used more creatively with continuous light and varying background
@ Started watching last night really enjoyed it thinking about studio rental. By the way, I noticed that you dress up really nicely for your shoots. I started doing the same thing at school knowing that my model took an hour or two to get ready. I would honor that my classmates thought I was nuts. But you’re a pro. I’m following the example.
Clarification, ISO is nothing but a name for an old artificial standard used for film rolls. Today ISO is digital, and highly varies from camera to camera. Furthermore high ISO doesn't cause noise, nor it means anything. Especially not "camera sensitivity" there is no such thing. A sensor captures photons, it has no sensitivity. Let me explain further: Digital ISO in modern cameras is nothing more but a post processing adjustment, exactly the same as the exposure sliders in post processing software like Photoshop and Lightroom, except it's done in camera. It's digital GAIN. Similar like when you simply bump up the volume on a bad audio source. It won't get clearer, just louder. Or if you zoom in on a small image, it won't infinitely get sharper it will just increase in size. Noise comes solely from LACK OF LIGHT. Photons. A sensor in complete darkness will have "noise" even if you take a shot of a cap for example without a lens. But you'll see a pitch black image, right? Well yes, but if you bump up the slider for exposure and voila the noise appears. You successfully bumped up the gain, to actually see the noise itself. Noise is inherently there. That's because the sensor works on electricity, which has quantum fluctuations, and that produces background noise, that's the way of our universe. Similar to the white noise hum on a radio when there is no station selected. No audible "signal" yet it's not nothing, it's not silence, it's white noise. Now if there is sufficient data to "overwrite" that noise AKA photons in this case for a camera, noise "disappears" it actually gets more translucent if that makes sense. If you don't bump the gain you won't see it. Like if you hear a radio station but it's not 100% on the right frequency, you'll hear music but there will be noise in the background. That's why you see no difference at iso 800 or iso 100 in studio environment. The light is literally the same. Thus the noise must be the same. It can't show trough, because there is always sufficient data. Now if you shot her without the light it's a different thing entirely. Now there is less photons, and less data captured by the sensor. So artificially bumping the gain to say ISO 3200 will result in visible noise. But try this take a shot in the dark with ISO 100. And then a shot with ISO 3200. ISO 3200 is 5 stops of light more. Now go in Photoshop and bump the ISO 100 image exposure slider up by 5 stops. The ISO 3200 shot and the ISO 100 shot with upped gain will look identical, just proving that ISO is non relevant. To get rid of the noise, you need more light, if there is no possibility of getting more light, (like a bigger sensor or a better lens) noise is what you'll have to settle with.
That only happens with certain modern sensors that are ISO invariant. i.e. You can freely change ISO in post and it behaves like you described. Since nearly the entire world uses Sony sensors which are ISO invariant, this holds true. However some Canon sensors are still not ISO invariant.
@@professionalpotato4764Yes, and for a small amount of cameras because of ISO variant sensors you lose *some* detail if you alter exposure in post. Not a big deal really. Still it is digital gain and has absolutely nothing to do with actual noise or "sensor sensitivity". Noise still comes from lack of light, not high ISO values. And like I said it's incorrect to say a sensor is more "sensitive" at high ISO as that is pure bogus. It WAS sensitivity of FILM though. As the crystals used in film were physically larger and reacted more to light, thus were more sensitive to light. So you got larger "noise" instead of more noise. Today we call it grain and even add it to images to get that retro look, that's why digital looks very different. It's simple causality, one causes the other, but the other doesn't affect the first. Low light will make you raise ISO, but high ISO will not cause noise or ruin an image if it has sufficient light. In her example ISO 100 and ISO 800 look identical. That wouldn't change regardless of sensors construction, it depends on the light source. ISO 800 has not a single spec of more noise because the same light was used and the same exposure was achieved, she acknowledges this. This would work as long as the photo is not overblown and data is not lost. If a sensor is digital ISO is really irrelevant. With film this would be a completely different story. The ISO 800 film would have large grain present at all times, because of large crystals while ISO 100 film would look sharper, simply because the film rolls are physically different. And to hear professional photographers use bad terminology and perpetuate a myth is bad enough in itself. It's been 20+ years now since digital took over and people still perpetuate misinformation. Camera manufacturers are not helping with their confusing naming conventions either. Many who are new to photography don't know what is ISO and influential photographers should do proper research if they're trying to actually teach others.
Great video! I was wondering how the warmer color was achieved in the photos, as I didn't see any mention of gels or something to add color to the light in the gear section. I really like the look.
@@lindsayadlerphotoThank you for the reply Lindsay! Didn't expect that you'd reply to an older video. Very much appreciated! Love the style and feel of these portaits. I even like the test shots to show the light comparisons ❤.
I always try to watch your videos since the instruction so good. I see if I can get my camera out next two weeks. Thanks for the refresher course working with a model or clients.
Learned so much ! I was super nervous shooting in the studio. You explain everything great. Quick question … With setting your Ap, shutter and iso how much power / what’s your setting with your strobe ?
So its irrelevant to the topic at hand (it has to do with distance of light, watts, modifier, etc), but you should definitely check out my class lindsayadler.photo/msl that really gets into this-- it helps you decide what to set your strobes at
Because I can quickly pop down to ISO 100 if I need to if the photo is too bright (without having to change the aperture which does change the depth of field). P.S. Thanks for the kind words regarding that jerk or made that awfully rude comment!
@@lindsayadlerphoto You're most welcome. Out here in the social media swamp, they need to be culled whenever they raise their nasty little heads ; ) I'm shooting with a Nikon D850, which doesn't have lovely high ISO performance particularly. I'm also shooting portraits and headshots, so not particularly concerned with recycle times. With the Flashpoint AD600's I'm almost never at full power in the Studio. If the image is too bright, I reduce power on the lights, rather than get into camera adjustments. Daz just me. Loving your content, your presentation, and your marketing chops are superb and inspiring. Thank you!
You are both right! It depends on the situation. And if I only need to change the ISO it’s done very fast and I can see the change in the viewfinder, so I don‘t lose the Modell. But usually I don’t change light when shooting. I make a set up Test the light, Look at some samples and then I concentrate on the Modell oder Portrait. And if I am lucky my Digital Assistant tells me things I need to know. So to the beginning: you change the Iso if you need „fast“ more or less strobe/light. I love to use this on the street. Because I can get different „light“ looks without touching the strobe. Excellent explained and good question Geoffrey.
Hi and thanx Lindsay! Realy helpful these videos of yours. Your voice are clear and understandable, even if you talk a bit fast sometimes (for a norwegian) Anyway, realy enjoyable!
Not a professional photographer here. So my problem is when im shooting in a studio similar situation. There is good light but blacks are too black and can’t see detail. Shooting with canon 7D
Basically those camera settings will give you a severely under exposed image, so black, no detail, your strobes are the exposure of your subject, if your flash power is too high, then over exposed, adjust the power down until you get the correct exposure. Thats the trial and error approach, Gavin Howie will show you how to use a light meter for a totally accurate exposure first time. I did look at buying one but they are quite expensive, so with off camera flash usually in an environmental background I can wing it with trial and error. Guys like Manny and Brandon Cole will give you extensive tips on the later technique.
@Rita_shamoun yes, try not to make true black although some will say do that, I would underexpose by say 3 stops so I can just see a tiny bit of detail. Then start with an average flash power setting, it's pretty obvious when it's too powerful or not powerful enough and adjust accordingly. What is interesting is the speed of the flash is around 1/1000 to 1/20000, so really fast and that's the exposure time, irrespective of your actual camera shutter speed which is around the 200 sinc speed. Outdoor portrait photography with off camera flash is different again and also loads of fun
Hi there! You will want to do one of the following (a) Add a bounce reflector. (b) add a fill light (c) move your light slightly away from your subject to allow more bounce around the room to fill in shadows. (d) Balance with ambient light if you are trying to see the surrounding environment. For you it sounds like you'd benefit from my two classes: Master Studio Lighting Lindsayadler.photo/msl and master location lighting after (lindsayadler.photo/mll)
Very well explained. I would add that too slow a shutter speed would also affect motion blur (intentional or not) in your captured image. It took me a while to understand the camera setting conundrum. :)
Background blur and image softness can be achieved in post-production on the computer if needed. However, getting detail back from an overly soft image is difficult. Better to shoot with higher and sharper apertures unless you get exactly want you want out of the camera with small apertures with little depth of field.
Glad to help! P.S. Not to try to "up sell you" but if you're just starting out with studio lighting you might want to check out my class: learn.lindsayadlerphotography.com/product/master-studio-lighting :)
U thought I was going crazy or missing something seeing all the videos on INstagram talking about the settings. To me it made no sense. Thanks for sharing.
In the studio ISO and aperture control your exposure because the lighting becomes your shutter. Just set the shutter around the sync speed and don't worry about it. Unless you want to drag the shutter for some blur lighting effects.
Coming from a film background id always lean towards the lens sweet spot, most manufacturers would list the optimum T stop, ( f stop). But when in doubt id use 2.5x the widest aperature, seen too many artifacts fringing etc on wide open. Many older lenses still have this marked on the lens, maybe new lenses have advanced to the point its not neccesary..
Three things you failed to mention. 1. When you are shooting at speed like 1/60 you cannot have model move much. Or else it will result in blurry picture. 2. When you increase ISO to compensate light, you are also increasing the noise. 3. If depth of field doesn't matter, you need to choose the best focal length of your lens that gives maximum sharpness. Not all lens are sharp across all the focal length. Some lens achieve peak sharpness between 4 to 5.6, While some expensive lens provide consistent sharpness across the entire focal range. So, you cannot simply say the settings does not matter. They do matter. But yes, your camera settings cannot help other photographers.
I didn't fail to mention them-- that is not the focus of the video. I have many many many (shall I say many again) courses that cover more aspects in depth but they truly do not matter as much as people think they do. To address your points. (1) Do not shoot that slow. People should be shooting at their sync speed unless they are trying to show ambient light. (2) There is hardly any noise until very high ISO... this is NOT any real consideration unless someone is shooting at like 2000 iso and above (depending on the camera) and that is not likely with strobes. (3) That is not really any major consideration someone should worry about-- most lenses are very sharp regardless and honestly its only the cheapest lenses where this makes a difference. It is such a minimal 'pixel peeping' concern.
Do you mean the lens hood? Only if I'm outside usually... just one less thing to worry about but honestly its probably best practice TO use it... I just dont.
So, it doesn't really matter-- that depends on each flash head, the modifier used, etc. The only thing that would be useful would be a flash meter reading
This is something I’ve been trying to talk about but you explain it so much better than I could ever have 😅
You are too funny, but thank you. xo
Love your vids too mate, you make total sense and your wife is stunning
@@p77vfc lol such a strange comment, but nice.
@@lindsayadlerphoto one day I hope to meet you. If you ever have a second out of your day to leave a critique on my photos @zrowedaartist it would mean the world to me
@@lindsayadlerphoto He was referring to Manny’s comment. This is a great video and very valid point you make!
Excellent video and most importantly the delivery. No awful UA-cam content creator jump cuts every two seconds! High production values make a huge difference. Well done.
You're not just a talented photographer but you're also a talented teacher. You explain stuff in so much detail but at the same time you make it so clear for everyone.
Amazing video! I learn so much in every one of your videos. But I love the fall off though. Im just teasing you, i understand that its all personal preference. 😉😃☺️
Lindsay is an amazing teacher and communicator. You are guaranteed to learn by words and example. Bravo!
Thank you so much for the kind words!
Great to see someone addressed this in a video so effectively.
I try to explain it to people by saying it’s like opening a gate and letting a horse in, once the horse is in (obviously the flash is an analogy for the horse) it doesn’t matter how long you stand around with the gate open.. the horse is already in the field!
That said I once did some tests in my studio with no ambient light whatsoever and a single strobe/modifier and as I went down from the classic 1/200th sec into the 30/50th sec setting you could clearly see the white walls of the studio and various bits of furniture that were invisible at 1/200th start to gently show up.
Sent the results to a friend of mine who is one of the leading commercial photographers in the world and he said he didn’t even want to think about it as it did his head in!
😳😂
I love getting notified of your videos! Your makeup is FLAWLESS as usual! You really do have a gift to facilitate complicated concepts and Ideas and processes in a simplified, unintimidating manner. Thank you for existing, you have made a photographer out of me!
*blush* thanks so much for the kind words. Glad that you enjoy the videos. :)
I've been shooting for 11 years and today I finally learn about this for the first time. It's been a trial and error all this time (sorta... you always keep learning and trying new things and I'm glad I'm still doing that because it led to learn this important fundamental).
Thank you!
So happy to hear that I can help!
This is genuinely one of the best videos I’ve seen explaining anything…. And I’m an experienced photographer lol but i still feel like I learned something! Great stuff
Thank you so much for the kind words! :)
took the words right out of my finger tips!
You're the best! Quick, easy to understand tutorials WITH examples that help everything stick in my brain.
Thank you so much!
Hi Lindsay. I met you all be it very briefly when you visited NZ for the conference, and of course, seen your work on CreativeLive way before that too. Great to see your teachings on youtube. You rock 😀 Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for the kind words! ;)
A very good and important tutorial, especially for the many hobby photographers who try studio photography with their speedlites in the living room.
Especially with the explanations and examples of the influence of a significantly longer exposure time than the synch speed, in my opinion it is important to say that the "Profoto D2" used is a TTL stobe and is apparently also used in TTL mode, as far as I can judge this with my limited knowledge, and that is the reason why, for example, a changed exposure time has no influence on the illumination by the flash, because the TTL mode always provides the right amount of light, which can be seen on the left half of the model's face. (Or have I overlooked something here or, unfortunately, still not understood it correctly?)
I`m living in Germany and in many German-language tutorials on the topic of studio lighting especially with speedlites the TTL mode is always advised against because from their point of view this is really not a mode for professionals but only for amateurs and beginners who are not familiar with the topic.
These German "experts" also say that also in the studio when shooting portraits for instance you should only take photos with the aperture wide open because of the strong bokeh and in their opinion only photos with a lot of bokeh are really good photos and therefore f1.4 is the most popular aperture of many German studio portrait and model photographers at least if you want to believe their tutorials ... but the photos in their portfolios on the internet usually don't look like they were just all photographed only with f1.4.
Hi lindsay, napakahusay at napakagaling mo, humahanga ako sa mga litrato mo.
Love going over basic's it's good to refresh the mind, and can i just say how lovely you look today Lindsay. Keep them video's coming .
Thanks a lot Lindsay, for your great, accurate, more details, comprehensive teaching.. finally I really understood how the aperture , shutters, and ISO iworks,. Thank you for your time and knowledge...
You're welcome! Thanks for watching! :D
You're very welcome!
Very much appreciated Lindsay! Very informative! Good luck with all your projects!
Thank you!
This is why (for my studio work) i am investing more to lights than upgrading camera
im not a Wedding photographer and my market is so jacked up, i dont get a lot of Portrait work either so i didnt go to WPPI a couple of weeks ago but i SO WOULD LOVE to shoot with you...
It's a very competitive market. The best advice I can give is to practice your craft and cater things to what people want. Stand above the crowd! :D
My university has one of your book about model shooting, and I have read it in my university's library, and it helps me a lot
That's very flattering to hear! Glad to know that it's helped you. :)
The way you explain this is so clear and in detail thank you so much for all of your wonderful videos!
You explained everything I needed to hear very clearly and concise! Definitely going to use this knowledge next week at my job! :)
Thanks Lindsay, you really light up our understanding with this walk through :D
Wow what an amazing tutorial. Flash photography is intimidating because not only do you have to understand theory like light and distance, you need the hands on experience. I'm trying to move beyond trial and error with studio lighting. Still using speedlites and modifiers because of budget. A light meter helped take some guesswork out as well as modeling light.
So glad you enjoyed it! :)
I understood everything you explained. I don't shoot much studio work at all, but I do shoot headshots from time to time and this was really helpful. I'm going to have to experiment a lot and have fun doing it. Thanks you!
I'm happy to help! :)
Awesome video as usual. You quickly passed over a lesson I wish I learned a long time ago. I shoot with speed lights frequently in the studio. I can’t tell you how many times I have over heated speed lights and had to quit until they cooled down. I was so fearful of raising my iso. Everybody always teaches keep iso at 100. So my speed lights were firing at full power. So just to repeat Lindsey’s tip… when shooting with speed lights in studio boost that iso as much as your camera can handle to get a clean image. Then you won’t over heat your speed lights all the time. Thanks Lindsey. 😀 📸
Totally! Also with today's cameras raising your ISO isn't going to necessarily increase the amount of artifacts like it used to!
Sharpness depends on the higher F number? Like F11 ?
And also while shooting 5 ppl together is it the same?
Where should I focus when shooting 5 ppl together
Gears I use -canon 80d , 50mm lens 1.8 , profotob10, silver umbrella
The middle of the lens aperture is usually considered sharpest (like f8 or f11) on most lenses, but to be honest a lot of lenses these days are pretty darn sharp throughout-- especially the canon RF lenses. So honestly it depends. With 5 people you will want to make sure there isn't too much depth -- aka too many layers of people. Keep everyone's face on the same plane. Be sure to check out my creativeLIVE class on photographing groups for more.
@@lindsayadlerphoto thank you 😊
I don't know if it's just me, but I can't focus on what you're saying( even though you're explaining it sooo clear), because I am simply mesmerised by your beautiful face 🥰😍😍😍. It's as if I get lost...
One of the best photography mentors ever. I really do love your work and the value that you bring out there. 💗💗💗
lol omg thank you, too kind!
Yes. Thank you for saying this. If I ever inquire about a photo by someone else I always ask what the camera and lens is because that makes more sense than the exposure settings. Great video! (also, coincidentally, off to find out what lens you used here, just for curiosity's sake haha)
Bravo! Thank you, Lindsay. This was a tremendous help.
Saw your sample workshop classes. Awesome!!
finally someone said it!! :D
also this meets me at a perfect timing, as i'm about to start teaching myself - and now i'm pondering for 5 minutes already WHY people ask about camera settings, and what to actually answer to them
I totally get why people ask but there are soo sooo many aspects to photography that settings aren't the main thing to be focused on (no pun intended lol.
@@lindsayadlerphoto
In tutorials about the studio and flash lighting there does not seem to be any more important information for many hobby photographers than the camera settings used by professional photographers.
You are such an amazing teacher. Thank you!
Thanks for another great presentation and for bringing clarity to the photographic process. I never knew of the term "equivalent exposure." However, prior to watching this video I conducted the same experience and realized that I had a couple of options available depending on how I set my variables within the exposure triangle.
That was spot on! If you want to avoid shadows on the backdrop doing portraits,is closest distance six feet?
It depends on the type of modifier as well as the angle of the light. but 6 feet is good. x
you are very articulate. Thank you for sharing this information!
Well done! Very informative and well presented. Thank you
Thank you so much Lindsay. This was very helpful.
This is the best video I have ever seen explaining this to me. 🙌🏻
Thanks so much!
Great video Lindsey, thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Cant thank you enough for this info Lindsay. You have always explained in a very understandable and fun way all this lighting thing lol.. thank you once again. I hope one day to shake your hand and thank you in person. Stay well. Blessings.
Thank you so much for the kind words and watching! :)
Wow, your B&W image of her turned out great.
I find that wide open in the studio can be quite distracting as sometimes only 1 eye is in focus and there is a lot of detail loss in earrings and clothes. Unless it's specific a shallow depth of field shot which is rate, I rarely shoot below f8, to make sure the image is clean and in focus. It's just my opinion. Outside it can be different as the shallow dept can be used more creatively with continuous light and varying background
Background softening can always be done in post-production if needed, but getting detail back from an oversoft image is not easily possible.
Lindsay explained it very easy to understand!
Lindsay always drops gems.
I just signed up for your online studio lighting class. I just completed a semester at a local college in studio so I’m ready!
Enjoy! You'll love it
@ Started watching last night really enjoyed it thinking about studio rental. By the way, I noticed that you dress up really nicely for your shoots. I started doing the same thing at school knowing that my model took an hour or two to get ready. I would honor that my classmates thought I was nuts. But you’re a pro. I’m following the example.
@@mapgrrl It came from teaching classes mostly-- showing I respect everyone's presence and time!
This is superuseful! Thank you Lindsay
Welcome! :)
Clarification, ISO is nothing but a name for an old artificial standard used for film rolls. Today ISO is digital, and highly varies from camera to camera. Furthermore high ISO doesn't cause noise, nor it means anything. Especially not "camera sensitivity" there is no such thing. A sensor captures photons, it has no sensitivity. Let me explain further:
Digital ISO in modern cameras is nothing more but a post processing adjustment, exactly the same as the exposure sliders in post processing software like Photoshop and Lightroom, except it's done in camera. It's digital GAIN. Similar like when you simply bump up the volume on a bad audio source. It won't get clearer, just louder. Or if you zoom in on a small image, it won't infinitely get sharper it will just increase in size.
Noise comes solely from LACK OF LIGHT. Photons. A sensor in complete darkness will have "noise" even if you take a shot of a cap for example without a lens. But you'll see a pitch black image, right? Well yes, but if you bump up the slider for exposure and voila the noise appears. You successfully bumped up the gain, to actually see the noise itself. Noise is inherently there. That's because the sensor works on electricity, which has quantum fluctuations, and that produces background noise, that's the way of our universe. Similar to the white noise hum on a radio when there is no station selected. No audible "signal" yet it's not nothing, it's not silence, it's white noise.
Now if there is sufficient data to "overwrite" that noise AKA photons in this case for a camera, noise "disappears" it actually gets more translucent if that makes sense. If you don't bump the gain you won't see it. Like if you hear a radio station but it's not 100% on the right frequency, you'll hear music but there will be noise in the background.
That's why you see no difference at iso 800 or iso 100 in studio environment. The light is literally the same. Thus the noise must be the same. It can't show trough, because there is always sufficient data.
Now if you shot her without the light it's a different thing entirely. Now there is less photons, and less data captured by the sensor. So artificially bumping the gain to say ISO 3200 will result in visible noise. But try this take a shot in the dark with ISO 100. And then a shot with ISO 3200. ISO 3200 is 5 stops of light more. Now go in Photoshop and bump the ISO 100 image exposure slider up by 5 stops. The ISO 3200 shot and the ISO 100 shot with upped gain will look identical, just proving that ISO is non relevant.
To get rid of the noise, you need more light, if there is no possibility of getting more light, (like a bigger sensor or a better lens) noise is what you'll have to settle with.
That only happens with certain modern sensors that are ISO invariant. i.e. You can freely change ISO in post and it behaves like you described. Since nearly the entire world uses Sony sensors which are ISO invariant, this holds true. However some Canon sensors are still not ISO invariant.
@@professionalpotato4764Yes, and for a small amount of cameras because of ISO variant sensors you lose *some* detail if you alter exposure in post. Not a big deal really. Still it is digital gain and has absolutely nothing to do with actual noise or "sensor sensitivity". Noise still comes from lack of light, not high ISO values. And like I said it's incorrect to say a sensor is more "sensitive" at high ISO as that is pure bogus. It WAS sensitivity of FILM though. As the crystals used in film were physically larger and reacted more to light, thus were more sensitive to light. So you got larger "noise" instead of more noise. Today we call it grain and even add it to images to get that retro look, that's why digital looks very different. It's simple causality, one causes the other, but the other doesn't affect the first. Low light will make you raise ISO, but high ISO will not cause noise or ruin an image if it has sufficient light. In her example ISO 100 and ISO 800 look identical. That wouldn't change regardless of sensors construction, it depends on the light source. ISO 800 has not a single spec of more noise because the same light was used and the same exposure was achieved, she acknowledges this. This would work as long as the photo is not overblown and data is not lost. If a sensor is digital ISO is really irrelevant. With film this would be a completely different story. The ISO 800 film would have large grain present at all times, because of large crystals while ISO 100 film would look sharper, simply because the film rolls are physically different.
And to hear professional photographers use bad terminology and perpetuate a myth is bad enough in itself. It's been 20+ years now since digital took over and people still perpetuate misinformation. Camera manufacturers are not helping with their confusing naming conventions either.
Many who are new to photography don't know what is ISO and influential photographers should do proper research if they're trying to actually teach others.
Tks for the video! You do you use iso 200 instead 100? Tks again! :)
Great video!
I was wondering how the warmer color was achieved in the photos, as I didn't see any mention of gels or something to add color to the light in the gear section. I really like the look.
Just white balance! Thats it! :D
@@lindsayadlerphotoThank you for the reply Lindsay! Didn't expect that you'd reply to an older video. Very much appreciated!
Love the style and feel of these portaits. I even like the test shots to show the light comparisons ❤.
I always try to watch your videos since the instruction so good. I see if I can get my camera out next two weeks. Thanks for the refresher course working with a model or clients.
😀
Truly enlightening-you’ve just solved something that caused me major headaches-thank you 🙏🏻
So happy to hear that! :D
You gave such a solid foundation on this topic. Great points and information. 👍
This is one of the most important photography videos on UA-cam
I concur.
Learned so much ! I was super nervous shooting in the studio. You explain everything great. Quick question … With setting your Ap, shutter and iso how much power / what’s your setting with your strobe ?
So its irrelevant to the topic at hand (it has to do with distance of light, watts, modifier, etc), but you should definitely check out my class lindsayadler.photo/msl that really gets into this-- it helps you decide what to set your strobes at
Absolutely brilliant tutorial thanks for sharingyour knowledge
Thank you for the kind words!
@lindsayadlerphoto Well you're Brilliant
This was a great explanation of why the camera setting don't matter! Thank you for this great insight!
So glad you enjoyed it!
Why would you shoot at an ISO above 100 in the Studio with strobes?
Because you don't need to use your strobes at high power (which often creates slower recycles times) especially when through larger modifiers.
Because I can quickly pop down to ISO 100 if I need to if the photo is too bright (without having to change the aperture which does change the depth of field).
P.S. Thanks for the kind words regarding that jerk or made that awfully rude comment!
@@lindsayadlerphoto You're most welcome. Out here in the social media swamp, they need to be culled whenever they raise their nasty little heads ; ) I'm shooting with a Nikon D850, which doesn't have lovely high ISO performance particularly. I'm also shooting portraits and headshots, so not particularly concerned with recycle times. With the Flashpoint AD600's I'm almost never at full power in the Studio. If the image is too bright, I reduce power on the lights, rather than get into camera adjustments. Daz just me. Loving your content, your presentation, and your marketing chops are superb and inspiring. Thank you!
@@geoffreydonne9774
You are both right! It depends on the situation. And if I only need to change the ISO it’s done very fast and I can see the change in the viewfinder, so I don‘t lose the Modell. But usually I don’t change light when shooting. I make a set up Test the light, Look at some samples and then I concentrate on the Modell oder Portrait. And if I am lucky my Digital Assistant tells me things I need to know. So to the beginning: you change the Iso if you need „fast“ more or less strobe/light. I love to use this on the street. Because I can get different „light“ looks without touching the strobe. Excellent explained and good question Geoffrey.
You make it sound so simple! Well done!
Thank you!
Hi and thanx Lindsay! Realy helpful these videos of yours. Your voice are clear and understandable, even if you talk a bit fast sometimes (for a norwegian) Anyway, realy enjoyable!
Thank you so much! :)
Not a professional photographer here. So my problem is when im shooting in a studio similar situation. There is good light but blacks are too black and can’t see detail. Shooting with canon 7D
Basically those camera settings will give you a severely under exposed image, so black, no detail, your strobes are the exposure of your subject, if your flash power is too high, then over exposed, adjust the power down until you get the correct exposure. Thats the trial and error approach, Gavin Howie will show you how to use a light meter for a totally accurate exposure first time. I did look at buying one but they are quite expensive, so with off camera flash usually in an environmental background I can wing it with trial and error. Guys like Manny and Brandon Cole will give you extensive tips on the later technique.
@ thank you
So i need to fix my lighting and not the camera settings?
@Rita_shamoun yes, try not to make true black although some will say do that, I would underexpose by say 3 stops so I can just see a tiny bit of detail. Then start with an average flash power setting, it's pretty obvious when it's too powerful or not powerful enough and adjust accordingly. What is interesting is the speed of the flash is around 1/1000 to 1/20000, so really fast and that's the exposure time, irrespective of your actual camera shutter speed which is around the 200 sinc speed. Outdoor portrait photography with off camera flash is different again and also loads of fun
@@zardosspinosa6944 thank you
Hi there! You will want to do one of the following (a) Add a bounce reflector. (b) add a fill light (c) move your light slightly away from your subject to allow more bounce around the room to fill in shadows. (d) Balance with ambient light if you are trying to see the surrounding environment. For you it sounds like you'd benefit from my two classes: Master Studio Lighting Lindsayadler.photo/msl and master location lighting after (lindsayadler.photo/mll)
Tks you are great!
This was an amazing tutorial!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Glad it was helpful!
You’re the best at teaching this material! Your content is always so relevant ! Thank you
🙏
Exactly, also with flash powers, for example, godox ad300pro and ad600pro is 1 light stop difference.
Ms. Adler, you are the Light Goddess. Thanks for sharing!
lol thank you
Great insight, thank you 🙏🏽
Very well explained. I would add that too slow a shutter speed would also affect motion blur (intentional or not) in your captured image. It took me a while to understand the camera setting conundrum. :)
Thank you!
I just bought your wonderful book on posing and I cant put it down. Amazing tips and advice in there. WOW!!
Happy to hear that! Glad that you're finding it useful! :)
Thank you for sharing , great presentation 👍 nice job
Background blur and image softness can be achieved in post-production on the computer if needed. However, getting detail back from an overly soft image is difficult. Better to shoot with higher and sharper apertures unless you get exactly want you want out of the camera with small apertures with little depth of field.
Most people try to get it right in camera, which is the point of what's being illustrated in this video.
Thank you for this quick video 📸
You're welcome! :)
Just discovered your channel and instantly subscribed. Your videos (the ones i saw) are very interesting and informative. Thanks
Glad you like them!
Greatly appreciated. I am just starting with studio lighting so this is most usefull. Kind regards from Belgium.
Glad to help!
P.S. Not to try to "up sell you" but if you're just starting out with studio lighting you might want to check out my class: learn.lindsayadlerphotography.com/product/master-studio-lighting :)
Such a great video! I love your style of teaching and the wealth of Information in your videos! Can't wait for the next one...
Thank you!
Great video! What about videos about strobes on location and positioning and settings? I enjoyed the video
@@lindsayadlerphoto please do a video on that if you can. I just can’t get into the studio
@@smellgoodphotography7722 I have an entire course on Creativelive about lighting on location!
Correct me if I'm wrong but your shutter speed does matter if you're trying to stop motion say in someone jumping or moving clothing.
not in the studio, no. That would be your flash duration-- I have another video about that.
Lighting 101, really well explained and demonstrated. Awesome.
Thanks so much!
Great video Lindsay! Love your down to earth no nonsense explanations, it’s not magic! Keep it up!
Thank you so much Roger! :)
How is the installation of the wb? skintone as desired when installing wb. thank you
The camera settings are dependent on your ambient light in a studio as you need a black frame without your flash.
did you watch the video?
I love your videos Lindsay ❤
Thank you!
wow i just learn something thanks
U thought I was going crazy or missing something seeing all the videos on INstagram talking about the settings. To me it made no sense. Thanks for sharing.
Why are you using flash when you already set up the strobe and gel lighting ? What is flashing exactly ?
It sounds like you should check out lindsayadler.photo/msl I explain everything in depth there!
Best teacher ever!
I liked the slower shutter when the second catch light was introduced.
Love every last video you put out, such a big help !
Thanks so much!
thank you so much. I subscribed and liked it. Without those who know, those who do not know would always be in the dark.
Thank you!
In the studio ISO and aperture control your exposure because the lighting becomes your shutter. Just set the shutter around the sync speed and don't worry about it. Unless you want to drag the shutter for some blur lighting effects.
Thanks for the tip lol
@@lindsayadlerphoto I wasn't directing that at you. You obviously understand it. Just offering general advice.
Just seemed odd considering the video explains that.
@@lindsayadlerphoto Seemed odd to watch a video for 11 minutes that took 30 seconds to summarize.
@@FabiusMaximus1000 Not everyone has all the knowledge you have...
Love your vids, Lindsay! You're indeed great speaker
Thank you so much! :)
Coming from a film background id always lean towards the lens sweet spot, most manufacturers would list the optimum T stop, ( f stop). But when in doubt id use 2.5x the widest aperature, seen too many artifacts fringing etc on wide open. Many older lenses still have this marked on the lens, maybe new lenses have advanced to the point its not neccesary..
new lenses today it is truly truly not an issue at all (on stills side)
Hope to see another video end of the month or beginning. Great work as always.
Thanks!
Love your work 💖
Thank you! 😊
Three things you failed to mention. 1. When you are shooting at speed like 1/60 you cannot have model move much. Or else it will result in blurry picture. 2. When you increase ISO to compensate light, you are also increasing the noise. 3. If depth of field doesn't matter, you need to choose the best focal length of your lens that gives maximum sharpness. Not all lens are sharp across all the focal length. Some lens achieve peak sharpness between 4 to 5.6, While some expensive lens provide consistent sharpness across the entire focal range.
So, you cannot simply say the settings does not matter. They do matter. But yes, your camera settings cannot help other photographers.
I didn't fail to mention them-- that is not the focus of the video. I have many many many (shall I say many again) courses that cover more aspects in depth but they truly do not matter as much as people think they do. To address your points. (1) Do not shoot that slow. People should be shooting at their sync speed unless they are trying to show ambient light. (2) There is hardly any noise until very high ISO... this is NOT any real consideration unless someone is shooting at like 2000 iso and above (depending on the camera) and that is not likely with strobes. (3) That is not really any major consideration someone should worry about-- most lenses are very sharp regardless and honestly its only the cheapest lenses where this makes a difference. It is such a minimal 'pixel peeping' concern.
The shots at the end were gorgeous! 🙌🏽🔥👍🏽
excellent video and excellent explanation. Thank you!
Thanks so much!
Hello Lindsay, thanks for the new video! I have a question, do you ever use Canon protect filters on any of your canon lenses? Why or why not?
Do you mean the lens hood? Only if I'm outside usually... just one less thing to worry about but honestly its probably best practice TO use it... I just dont.
Great tutorial, so easy!
Can I ask, whats the setting on the flash head?
So, it doesn't really matter-- that depends on each flash head, the modifier used, etc. The only thing that would be useful would be a flash meter reading
@@lindsayadlerphoto Thank you :)
How do I find out Nikon d7000 sync speed for indoor shoots.
Finally does it have to match with ad600 bm light. This will really help thanks
I don't use Nikon but I would imagine that information is available easily enough to find online.
Great confirmation to what I've picked up from your many great videos. Thank you.