6 steps to navigate big & intimidating waves / line ups
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- Опубліковано 25 чер 2024
- Inevitably as a surfer you’ve found yourself out in a lineup that seems intimidating or even scary. Firstly, you should know that everybody feels this at certain times - it's personal to the surfer, but there are some really simple strategies for you to remain safe and to even start developing confidence in these conditions!
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This is one aspect where surfing beach breaks really help. If you can't make the paddle out, you probably shouldn't be out there any way. That's how I learned growing up at least. It's a whole different beast with reefs and points that have easy paddles no matter what, you can really get in over your head without realizing it. Great video as always!
This is so helpful, mate. I am at that point in my surfing where I can ride bigger waves, but my sticking point is it’s scary for me to paddle out in these breaks and once I catch one I’m scared to paddle back out and getting caught. It all stems from a near drowning experience at Popoyo in Nicaragua years ago and I’ve never been able to get over it.
Takes time. Sometimes getting one or two on the head to know you’ll be okay is not a bad move :)
Scary
Sometimes my home break is big macking closeouts, and not surfable, or even paddle outable. Other times, like this weekend, we got some sand out there to make peaks, and channels, super fun! When it's closeout city, none of the regulars go out, so neither do I.
Dude. You have got to be the friendliest shredder I know. All your stuff is so helpful and just listening to you gives me a happy vibe. Great advice and fun video!
Oh thank you!
"Remember that this journey that's very personal & unique to you, is one that occurs over years, not days, not even months. So take your time, be patient, be considered and enjoy the ride" 👏🏼🤙🏼
One of the best waves on its day….love the little chapel in the background at the beginning
Great video Kale - your helpful words resonated much with me.
Appreciate the vid. I always have issues getting out the back in bigger surf as I surf beach breaks.
Need to find a exercise routine I can do at home that gives me better paddle fitness.
Great subject heading into winter here. I really like the assessment part.
Much needed !
awesome advice, thank you
You forgot step 7 Kale, if its busy and you are inexperienced in big surf….do yourselves and everyone else a favour and do the hard work and go out somewhere else where theres only a couple of people out… usually the Pass byron is a good starting point.
To get over the fear of big waves, go out in even bigger waves.
Excellent advise bro, i learnt the old hard way and before UA-cam.
when its overhead / 2x overhead etc, always best be with a mate for safety, if you feel on that dat its too big, no shame in not going, there is always other days.
Great clean waves and surfing, decent eticate too, 🤗🤙
Thank you for your channel kale, is great. Can you explain what it is 3 , 2, 1, method? Thank you
Awesome ammmaaazzzinnnggg cooooool!!!!!!!
Excellent video. Keep living the dream 😅
That is the issue for me because I couldn’t find a surf buddy yet, even though I still surf in a crowdy points full of beginners and I know rescues will come to help if things went south but I still lack of that reassurance where you have someone to paddle out with and watch each other out
Why is nobody talking about the naked guy at 6:26 ??? What the???
Because is normal in south France 😊
I’ve def had the “I’m not cut out for this” feeling a few times lol. Once in in Costa Rica, and believe it or not…. Once in pacific beach San Diego. Sounds silly cause it’s known as a soft wave, but this day was no joke.
Thats why I bodysurf so I can just swim under and I have an entire section of the beach to myself.
Thx helps a lot
Glad it helped
Bro was trying to show you the goods at 6:27 😂
Hahahaha didn’t even realise
Awesome vid. What stops me from charging big waves is my pop up. I keep slamming my back foot on the tail of the short board. Almost has me giving up on short boarding. Any tips? Cheers!
I might have missed it but make sure you plan your return. sometimes you are up against cliffs, sometimes the currents are way different to what is 'normal'. know the spot.
Cheers pal 🤘
Thank you!
Great video - thank you! What size surfboard are you riding in this video? Also, can you duck dive a board that size?
No that one is a 7’8 - too big for duckdiving haha
Aggggggreeeee paaaaatieeeeennnncccccceeee and yeaaaaaaaars!!!!!!!
Hey mate great video as always. I’ve been surfing since I was 12 years old (now 37) but I had a lot of years off due to drug addiction. I’ve been sober for 3 years now and loving my surfing again. I’ve been struggling with the frustration of not being as good as I once was when I was surfing competitively in general. However kind of more relative to this video I feel a great amount of pressure when paddling for good solid waves in a crowded lineup. It’s not a fear of the wave itself but a fear of blowing it and wasting the wave. Any advice on self imposed pressure and or advice for a guy trying to reclaim my surfing skills from the years before I fell into addiction? Cheers 😎🤙🏽
Almost in the same boat as you... getting back surfing after 15 years of life "getting in the way" now I have more free time and a job that give me the time to be able to surf after work. For me I think the most important thing is to just have fun you're not in a contest. Sure I get frustrated some times when I catch a rail or misplace my foot maybe mis a wave or 2 from bad positioning not watching my line up, but at the end of the day I'm out there to have fun and that's what I remind myself when i start feeling frustrated. Just the other day i got blown up on my 1st 2 waves and started doubting myself then just said f it who care and sent it on a 5 ftr with a pyzel gremlin and made it haha felt awesome had a great session after that. Just remember to have fun 🤙🏽🤙🏽
Be patient and have understanding / compassion for yourself! Everybody falls at some point :)
@@bsmbB you’re absolutely right I should just focus on enjoying each session and get out of my own head 😂. I appreciate your perspective and advice.
@@KalesBroccoli thanks Kale I appreciate your advice. “We are all our own worst critic” as the saying goes or something along those lines 😂.
Some days I feel like every turn and snap is on point and some days I struggle to get my feet in the right spot to bottom turn lol. Every day I surf is a good day though. 🤙🏽
great video!
Thanks!
Love your videos as always brotha! There might need to be a 7th rule though…which is to just charge the wave like a maniac without even realizing how big it is 😂😅
Good point!
Haha thats my go to, just turn and go on the first set that I'm in position for, if I make it great, if not copping a bestdown and popping up ok also helps.
Obliously following most of the steps kale talks about prior to paddling for a bomb is smart 👌
Yeah.... You did it in Guéthary, France.....
This break looks sick! Looks like a mini Mavericks
the break looks like the most chill lil thing in all the oceans. i WISH my break looked like that.
@@CacaoJunajpu yeah mavs looks like solid pits and over vert take off to me
This is a very easy paddle out if you paddle from the harbour
Parlemantia est une vague à cut black. Très facile à surfer mais difficile à digérer, elle reste très puissante sur toute sa longueur
There's 2 types of intimidating.. there's the heavy/hollow and fat/big, I find the heavy/hollow fast breaking over the falls type lip to the head on paddle out way worse than big fat slow moving ramps.. however ask on another day and it'll be something different
I recently surfed 8 to 10 foot faces for the first time in years and at first it was really intimidating but once I got a couple of sets in and fell right in the dangerzone and survived . Then my confidence skyrocketed and I was actually having fun
everything you said in this video is what people should be doing every time they enter the water, you forget the number 1 tip ! turn around and actually go ! yiew
🤙🏽🤙🏽
I'm 67 surfing since the age of 5 people have told me how is it that you can get all good big wave's well I'm not going to Tell you
Ok boomer take your meds now
huh, didn't know that Pirates of the Caribbean had surfing scenes...
French butt à 6:26 !
so cringe mate, let people experience their own surfing journey thats the whole point! why try teach people something you cant teach...all the while being cringey and non-core as possible
Im new to surfing probably 2 months not regularly surfing, ive managed to stand a fee times ive learnt so far on a high volume epoxy board. I go surfing with a mate and recently got introduced to 3 foot plus waves, for me this is monsterous but i still have a go paddle on and eat copious shit. I reckon its good for confidence for me atleast 🙂
Love the video! I can relate to these advices. They really work. ALso loved the grey hoodie! What brand is this @kalebrock?
It’s a Quik one!
Thank you!