I use 34% Woollies long grain rice cooked in a rice cooker in 2 batches and get 78% efficiency. I live in a regional area and freight costs are through the roof. Using rice from the local supermarket helps.
I have been using a power drill to mash in with a paint paddle for YEARS, it totally eliminates dough balls, and I love it! As far as the rice lager, my water, direct from my stream, is also soft, German style water profile, with sulfate and chloride at 30ppm each, easy stuff. I use flaked rice when I have it, but lately just boil up a kilo of Calrose rice (California brewer here), and stuff it in a brew bag with 7 kg of pilsner malt for my 40 liter batch, mash at 64C for an hour, with 28g of Northern brewer at boil 60, and 28g of Styrian golding at 10, with another 56g of Styrian Golding at flameout. I ferment at room temp with 34/70 or CellarScience German yeast for 10 days, keg and enjoy! Cheers!
Great looking brew! I've read in places from experienced folk that the Japanese brewers are on par with the Germans. And yeah, I'll take a Japanese lager over a Mexican one any day. Look forward to the comparisons!
Cheers mate! We filmed it just last night, it’s a tight contest 😉 no spoilers but we’ll worth brewing both. I do really love a good Japanese though, at the very least in the commercial game I find Japanese to be superior to the Mexican counterparts
I picked up 3Kg of Poha (flaked rice) today from my local Indian grocer to make a batch of Japanese rice lager. I am reducing the bitterness on my recipe this time.
@@flyingwombattv I have 2/3 pilsner and 1/3 flaked rice. Brewfather indicates 21 IBUs. I don't mind the bitterness but others think it's too bitter. I also use Motueka hops.
I remember looking at some Old Sapporo ads and noticed it saying they used only the finest hops from the Hallertau & Czech Republic regions, which made me think Mitterfreuh and Saaz. If I remember correctly Sapporo didn’t develop Sorraci Ace until the mid 80s. I’m definitely not telling you what hops you should be using by any means I just thought you might find it interesting being a beer nerd and all.
Ohhh yeah that is interesting, I’d be really curious to do this all again with identical batches except for the hops, one going sorachi and the other euro hops, would be great to do a side by side
Yup we did this in the uni tank, so after primary and diacetyl rest we cold crashed and transferred to kegs (did do some trub dumps but if you can’t it’s not super necessary, sitting on the yeast cake let’s the beer clean up before kegging)
Only thing I have to add is beer doesn't survive packaging and transportation very well. Don't judge a beer unless you've had it from the keg/tasting room.
Not included in the percentage split of the grains, the hulls are non fermentable and add no colour or flavour so just treat them as a seperate adjunct
being fairly new to all grain infact brewing in all, i was just wondering if i had sorachi ace how much should i use for that hops as my calculater said using same amount of sorachi as Motueka my IBU went up to 43 so i imagine i need less .Is this true thank
Yup just reduce the hops until it’s comes to around the same IBU’s, start by reducing the bittering addition to drop a lot of it, then if it still needs adjusting reduce some of the late flavour additions, or even play around with the timing of the last hop addition, doing it a few mins later will reduce the time they have to isomerise and produce IBU’s
Im using Saflager S-23 for now and notice that the instructions said 11.5g per 10-15L wort. Do i need 2 packet for 20L beer or 1 packet just do it as you did in the recipe?
If you are going to pitch the yeast dry as is out of the packet I’d follow their recommendation of 2 packs, however if you want to make a starter like I did a day earlier than you will grow enough viable yeast cells over that period that one packet will be plenty!
@@flyingwombattvthank you Myke. One more quick question. Is the starter vial we saw in the video you are using 2 packets to make the starter for 40L batch.
I brewed one with a jar of organic 100% rice syrup and Gladfields Light Lager malt with a small mix of Gladfields Pilsner malt for a little more flavour. I went with Wakatu hops, or known as Pacific Hallertau. And some Gladiator for head retention 👌🍺. Good video 👍.
@@flyingwombattv yeah was good, definitely saves time as I all way's have a double brew day 🍺👌. It was very clear, I was experimenting with Novalager. The organic rice 🍚 syrup is more expensive then doing a conversion with rice. Another angle, the 🍚 rice syrup I used was 100% organic brown rice syrup. I'm not sure if there would be any difference between organic brown rice vs white rice? Great thing about Gladfields Light Lager malt for that light colour👌.
@@flyingwombattv interesting. I always taste my starter and it is not bad but not something that I want to put a lot of in my beer. Maybe I'll try dumping the whole thing in at some point. For now I do not add all of it. As long as I can get all the yeast out I am happy
Yup we did this in the uni tank, so after primary and diacetyl rest we cold crashed and transferred to kegs (did do some trub dumps but if you can’t it’s not super necessary, sitting on the yeast cake let’s the beer clean up before kegging)
I use 34% Woollies long grain rice cooked in a rice cooker in 2 batches and get 78% efficiency. I live in a regional area and freight costs are through the roof. Using rice from the local supermarket helps.
Yeah I reckon next time around I’ll have a crack with actual long grain rice, go the more traditional route
@@flyingwombattv I'd be really keen to see that happen!!
I added some alpha amylase to a 47% rice lager 😂 got VERY good effiecency ( 88% ). Better than my usual batches.
I have been using a power drill to mash in with a paint paddle for YEARS, it totally eliminates dough balls, and I love it! As far as the rice lager, my water, direct from my stream, is also soft, German style water profile, with sulfate and chloride at 30ppm each, easy stuff. I use flaked rice when I have it, but lately just boil up a kilo of Calrose rice (California brewer here), and stuff it in a brew bag with 7 kg of pilsner malt for my 40 liter batch, mash at 64C for an hour, with 28g of Northern brewer at boil 60, and 28g of Styrian golding at 10, with another 56g of Styrian Golding at flameout. I ferment at room temp with 34/70 or CellarScience German yeast for 10 days, keg and enjoy! Cheers!
Sounds like a plan.
Q: Do you include the boiled rice water in the mash?
That’s a real solid sounding recipe, what IBU and ABV are you pulling from it?
Great video. Thanks.
Cheers mate
Very cool video, I have not attempted a Japanese lager before, other than wet packs, It's definitely on my to do list though
Very worth while mate especially as it starts warming up, it’s gonna be a scorcher this summer I reckon
Hi and thanks for making this channel.
What would you change if you brew it again?
Cheers from Japan''
@@TheFlopyOne cheers mate! For this one I would love to use sorachi Ace hops. Aside from that I think this is a fantastic beer!
Great looking brew! I've read in places from experienced folk that the Japanese brewers are on par with the Germans. And yeah, I'll take a Japanese lager over a Mexican one any day. Look forward to the comparisons!
Cheers mate! We filmed it just last night, it’s a tight contest 😉 no spoilers but we’ll worth brewing both. I do really love a good Japanese though, at the very least in the commercial game I find Japanese to be superior to the Mexican counterparts
I picked up 3Kg of Poha (flaked rice) today from my local Indian grocer to make a batch of Japanese rice lager. I am reducing the bitterness on my recipe this time.
How much rice to barley are you running with? What IBU are you aiming for?
@@flyingwombattv I have 2/3 pilsner and 1/3 flaked rice. Brewfather indicates 21 IBUs. I don't mind the bitterness but others think it's too bitter. I also use Motueka hops.
I remember looking at some Old Sapporo ads and noticed it saying they used only the finest hops from the Hallertau & Czech Republic regions, which made me think Mitterfreuh and Saaz. If I remember correctly Sapporo didn’t develop Sorraci Ace until the mid 80s. I’m definitely not telling you what hops you should be using by any means I just thought you might find it interesting being a beer nerd and all.
Ohhh yeah that is interesting, I’d be really curious to do this all again with identical batches except for the hops, one going sorachi and the other euro hops, would be great to do a side by side
Question about your fermentation- primary was 14 days, then for lagering or secondary did you leave it on the yeast and then transfer to keg ?
Yup we did this in the uni tank, so after primary and diacetyl rest we cold crashed and transferred to kegs (did do some trub dumps but if you can’t it’s not super necessary, sitting on the yeast cake let’s the beer clean up before kegging)
Only thing I have to add is beer doesn't survive packaging and transportation very well. Don't judge a beer unless you've had it from the keg/tasting room.
Yeah that’s true, but seeing as we don’t have the cash to pop over to Japan for this vid, then bottled is the best we can do hahaha
@@flyingwombattv respek mang, i'd love to visit japan too, that's why I homebrew, cause grocery store beer is so dissaoppointing
Are the rice hulls included in the grain bill?
Not included in the percentage split of the grains, the hulls are non fermentable and add no colour or flavour so just treat them as a seperate adjunct
being fairly new to all grain infact brewing in all, i was just wondering if i had sorachi ace how much should i use for that hops as my calculater said using same amount of sorachi as Motueka my IBU went up to 43 so i imagine i need less .Is this true thank
Yup just reduce the hops until it’s comes to around the same IBU’s, start by reducing the bittering addition to drop a lot of it, then if it still needs adjusting reduce some of the late flavour additions, or even play around with the timing of the last hop addition, doing it a few mins later will reduce the time they have to isomerise and produce IBU’s
@@flyingwombattv thank you
Nice background music. Whats the name please. Watching you from Kenya👍
Honestly I can’t remember! I’ll try look for it though
Nah, good move on the rice hulls. Liberty and Lemondrop are good subs for Sorachi Ace if you cannot find. Thanks for the video, enjoyed it.
Cheers mate! Yeah always rather be safe than sorry with a new grain bill
Im using Saflager S-23 for now and notice that the instructions said 11.5g per 10-15L wort. Do i need 2 packet for 20L beer or 1 packet just do it as you did in the recipe?
If you are going to pitch the yeast dry as is out of the packet I’d follow their recommendation of 2 packs, however if you want to make a starter like I did a day earlier than you will grow enough viable yeast cells over that period that one packet will be plenty!
@@flyingwombattvthank you Myke. One more quick question. Is the starter vial we saw in the video you are using 2 packets to make the starter for 40L batch.
Maybe I am biased but yeah fresh home brew will be 100% better. Should have done the dark lager
Ohhh yeah I’ve only had a couple Japanese dark lagers but they were all awesome! Might be a tad warm in Australia now tho!
I brewed one with a jar of organic 100% rice syrup and Gladfields Light Lager malt with a small mix of Gladfields Pilsner malt for a little more flavour.
I went with Wakatu hops, or known as Pacific Hallertau.
And some Gladiator for head retention 👌🍺.
Good video 👍.
Cheers man, yeah how do you find the syrup impacted head and body versus whole rice?
@@flyingwombattv yeah was good, definitely saves time as I all way's have a double brew day 🍺👌.
It was very clear, I was experimenting with Novalager.
The organic rice 🍚 syrup is more expensive then doing a conversion with rice.
Another angle, the 🍚 rice syrup I used was 100% organic brown rice syrup.
I'm not sure if there would be any difference between organic brown rice vs white rice?
Great thing about Gladfields Light Lager malt for that light colour👌.
Why don't you cold crash your yeast starters to get less of the yeast starter into your beer? Does it not matter?
@@slugger777 doesn’t really matter tbh, we have been thinking of doing an experiment with this, but we havnt noticed any difference
@@flyingwombattv interesting. I always taste my starter and it is not bad but not something that I want to put a lot of in my beer. Maybe I'll try dumping the whole thing in at some point.
For now I do not add all of it. As long as I can get all the yeast out I am happy
@ yeah sometimes I let the cake settle out and remove most of the top liquid but it’s not something I’m super concerned with
fastest taste ever lol
Lol
Question about your fermentation- primary was 14 days, then for lagering or secondary did you leave it on the yeast and then transfer to keg ?
Yup we did this in the uni tank, so after primary and diacetyl rest we cold crashed and transferred to kegs (did do some trub dumps but if you can’t it’s not super necessary, sitting on the yeast cake let’s the beer clean up before kegging)