Kamikaze - 3lb Combat Robot
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- Опубліковано 8 жов 2016
- Kamikaze is a 3lb combat robot I built with the intention of causing as much damage as possible. The plan worked and Kamikaze essentially destroyed itself! But, I learned some things and there might be a way to make this robot a bit more robust. In any event, it was a fun build and the crowd seemed to like it.
Here is a playlist of the fights for Kamikaze: • AVC 2016 - Kamikaze vs...
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Haha that is the most ridiculous beetle I've ever seen. Thoroughly enjoyed the build log / analysis post event. I've been using PC-Max from polymaker as parts for a featherweight and they actually held up as drive gears... full combat class. It's tricky to print but if you've got ABS working without warp I'd give that a shot for next time, it's got far superior strength and layer bonding in my experience. Now to binge your other builds !
That thing just turned into a beyblade...
I have to say, I really appreciate the high quality video you put out and the attention to details in those videos. Thanks, and please keep the content coming. You really keep me motivated to do my own, "making" even tho i may not have the guts to publish it in video like you.
Thank you very much! It's always a lot of work, but comments like this get me excited to keep cranking out videos.
@@RobertCowanDIY hey friend, there was a bot with the same outward spinner but massive in size. Do u know the name of the bot or the team?
@@AfafPrinceOSH You're gonna have to give me a LOT more details than that...
@@RobertCowanDIY well I don't have much detail tho but all I can remember is that just like the bot, that bot was huge in size, flat, with a spinner same like this both but just straight bar instead of curve. It pretty much dominated others. And when it landed on its back, it simply spins the bar and gets into a spinning coin position to land properly
That's really great insight when it comes to the sheer strength mitigation for the weapon. We haven't run into that yet but we're only in the 1 lbs class right now. We'll be moving to the 3 lbs in a year or so.
Man, you have everything in you shop.
I don't have any welding equipment. Yet ;-)
The modular design of the compartments is cool and definitely useful, but like you said if you want them to help add stength to the chassis, make the whole top plate one piece and it will maybe hold the 3d printed base together a little better. Love this channel and your bots!
hey man just wanted to leave a comment saying thank you for these really well done videos about ur combat robots. Im from the UK so these arent the rules we use but they are very informative about what to do with designing a bot. Thanks!
Thank you Robert!
Robert, great video, thank you. What brushless outrunner are you using for the weapon?
A nylon filament such as Taulmann Alloy 910 would make a strong frame, you can coat the outside of it with epoxy for even more strength
Unfortunately, my printer can't get hot enough for nylon. But I'm building a new one that should be able to print nylon and other materials.
what gear ratio motors doo you use and what is the rpm of it
Great vid. Interesting and informative. Good luck next time.
Very informative video. Great job!
Thank you!
What are the motors you use?
Great looking bot
Thanks for the making videos of the robots that you build. They are quite informative. You note of even a small issue that you face, and provide us the solution. And, thanks for the continuous improvement of the robots, and building techniques.
I've few suggestions for the Kamikaze robot.
For full body spinners, during the impact the chassis has to be stable, and stick to the ground.
Suggestions:
1. use of wider wheels.
2. Use wheels with shock absorbs (so that wheels can move 2,3mm up).And, the bottom of the chassis should be a silicone grip surface. So, during the impact the chassis moves down, and the grip holds the robot firmly to the ground, delivering max impact to the opponent. The drawback is that the weapon ground clearance needs to be more than 3mm.
3. If the floor is a steel one, you can use electromagnets to hold the robot (chassis) still during the impact.
When the weapon hits the opponent, it's thrown away, and hits the walls of the arena, right? Make the edge of the weapon like a wedge, so that the opponent robot will be thrown away in the air, after impact. There are more chances that the opponent will land upside down, and more chances of winning. (The current version of Tombstone robot has wedge shaped spinning bar, hopefully for the same reason)
Correct me if I'm wrong.
Thanks. I actually ordered a bunch of different wheels and am testing them on Sgt. Cuddles (v2) as well as Kamikaze and an un-named robot design I'm testing.
Electromagnets aren't really practical. They draw a ton of current and are relatively heavy for the 'downforce' they provide. I might play with the lead edge angle though. Another person suggested not making it 90 degrees. However, I kinda want maximum impact. Otherwise, it's not Kamikaze, it's "try-to-survive-aze'.
I've got to make it to AVC at some point. Nice bot!
That's amazing mrs, I really enjoy watching everything you do, I am so excited. I wonder if you can shared the design, it means a lot for. Greetings from Ecuador
No coolant when machining the steel for the weapon??
did you think about chamfering the edges inside the body? especially between the weapon motor mount and the drive motor mounts. It should stiffen it up significantly.
That's a really good and simple idea. It would give more of a wall between the layers. It would also add minimal weight. Hum, I'll have to think about that. Nice idea!
Have you ever considered a centrifugal deploying top spinner.. I.e. it starts looking like a 3car jack which as it spins up the strike pieces will pull outward widening the diameter of the scissor mech until at full speed it would be at make extension and damage capability while also providing a heavy duty spindle center for the whole device to become a self righting mech?
Nice!
can you please tell me the design software you're using?
It's Solidworks.
can you please tell which software you used to make the design at 0.55 to 1.00 in the video
Solidworks
what size/kv out runner is that?
i also want to know
maybe add a tapered grind to the blade to create downward force like a helicopter blade, less towards the tip and subtle increase working towards hub for even airflow, which has an added benefit for keeping the bot cool.
Good vid
Great build as always. I wonder if you infill the 3d printed frame with long set epoxy (including "cross paths" so that it flows between) to create some more rigidity. Thinking about how they use cement and rebar steel in building construction to provide both strength and flexibility.
Yeah, I was thinking of building in some voids, pausing the print, and adding in some carbon fiber rods or plates. Some high end commercial printers do this. We'll see. I'm working on a few other things now (which involve 3d printing), so I'll do some tests.
Watching in 2020. Your videos are amazing. I often see and think other boys have many flawed designs. Your bots are so well engendered and thought through. Thank you for great inspiration not only with bot building but workshop layout, approach to any project and that dedication and discipline is hard but worthwhile and gratifying.
Two question if I may ask.
1. As weapons now achieving huge speeds, and haven’t noticed many people talk about Areo dynamics such as in airplane props etc. know that they don’t fair well to impacts. But wonder if there’s any software to test impact speed to strength and speed. May mean a smaller motor could spin same speeds ? Just a thought
2. Being that you’ve been on UA-cam for some time now and in public eye. How has your mental health faired and what things do you do as habit to stay stable and strong.
Thanks again.
First off, thanks! 1) aerodynamics do pay an issue, but only when you get faster than ~200MPH. beyond this tip speed, engagement suffers, so it's a moot point. But if you're talking about actual props, these will explode. Even hardened steel can fail in these cases. 2) My mental health is just fine. I don't really do anything other than walk away from social media when I get tired of it. I don't have any 'requirements' to make videos. If I don't feel like doing them, nothing stops me from just not doing it.
dimension please i just need an idea
I remember cutting 4140 on my tormach 770 years ago and it was a pain in the ass to say the least. I loved my old tormach for aluminum and plastics but it struggles on the harder stuff (still got the job done but struggled)
Yeah, I feel the same. For smaller jobs (keyways, counterbores, etc), it's just fine. But if you're actually making a part out of anything other than aluminum or plastics, it's not going to go smoothly.
Kamikaze has a very fitting name, since it mostly destroys itself
Robert, these videos have been really fascinating. Thanks for sharing so much about your process, design evolution, battles, etc.
Where can I learn more about the rules and weight classes?
Thank you! If you want to learn more about the rules, go here: sparc.tools/ There are a few variations on the rules, but those are the ones I use. It's best to look for local competitions and they see what rules they use. But generally speaking, if you read the rules at the site I sent you, you should be fine for most competitions, unless you try and do something questionable.
Cool. I don't intend to compete, at least not any time soon. I just figure the rules (any set of defined rules in any group) will give me more insight into the design decisions I'm seeing in these videos (with UA-cam recommending others now that I started seeing yours). Thanks!
If you make a heavy part and a lighter one, wont the lighter one tend to spin more than the heavy one?
Not necessarily. It's going to come down to the motor. The motor will ultimately dictate how fast the weapon will spin.
Awesome sir it is bad ass really i love this design.
I also want to make such awesome battlebot for my college event but I don't have any idea about electronic circuit and which motor should I prefer for weapon . I will really appreciate if you help me.
Prince Chaurasia you just need a transmitter and a reciever
What software do you use for your cad designs?
Solidworks
Do you have any other combat robots? (Not including kamikaze or Sgt. Cuddles)
Nope, just those. I'm starting the design for a 1 or 3lb robot. I want to try and fit everything into a 1lb, but if that doesn't work, it will end up as a 3lb. I have some testing to do to see if I can get everything working first.
Hi could you please leave a link to the motor, or the name of the motor
Sure thing, here's the motor: www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__46314__Turnigy_Multistar_4822_390Kv_22Pole_Multi_Rotor_Outrunner_US_Warehouse_.html
What should I google search to find robot fights near my town in Florida?
You can check here: sparc.tools/?post_type=tribe_events Looks like there's an event later this month in Orlando at the Maker Faire. There are a few other websites, just search for combat robots, insect class or something like that. There's not really a centralized list that shows all the events.
Thanks!
where can i find a standardized rule list for 3lb robots?
Check with the specific event. Each event will have a slight variation of the rules. If you're looking for just a general guideline, check sparc.tools. They have a good list of rules.
Adding lightening holes to the arms of the weapon will reduce weight where it doesn't matter. I would imagine that the energy at the tip of the weapon is affected very little by removing weight from the drive arms, given their distance from the center of mass.
100% correct. With most of the weight on the outside, the hitting force should be roughly the same.
What if you used a somewhat loose friction fit to spin the weapon so that the motor shaft just spins rather than send the force into the motor and chassis.
That could work. Some people use clutches or torque reducers. For my bigger robot, I use belts, to de-couple the weapon from the rest of the robot. Ultimately though, once it's spinning, it's storing a LOT of kinetic and it has to go somewhere.
how much battery did you drain in a match? i would have figure that would be a major issue.
Yeah, it was a consideration. I didn't design it to last the full 3 minutes. I figured there wouldn't really be a situation in which it would last the full match, there would be a knock-out. So I assumed about 2 minutes of battery time. The drive motors draw a negligible amount of power. At max those motors only draw maybe an amp, but generally only 100-500mA. But the weapon motor can do around 20-40A. Of course the weapon won't be drawing max power the whole time, only during acceleration in small bursts, so I assumed around 15A average current draw. So, the drive motors would be around 200mA @ 0.05 hours or 0.01AH, and the weapon motor would be ~15 amps continuous for 0.05 hours or 0.75AH. That's 0.76AH or 760mAh IF I ran for 3 minutes and the weapon motor pulled 15A the whole time. If it averaged to around 10A, that's closer to 510mAh. The battery was a 450mAh, so I was pretty close to either 10A continuous draw, or 2 minutes at 15A.
Robert Cowan how many cells on the battery? did you go over the burst current rating for it either? I'm looking to get into the combat hobby and i'm just surprised by the battery packs that peoples are getting away with running.
I was using a 3-cell, 500mAh, 25C. So, a max discharge of only 12.5A, that was probably part of my problem ;-) I use this same battery in my antweight, and it's probably overkill. I should have used something with a higher discharge rate.
What material is top plate made of?
The weapon is 4140 steel, the black plates are laser-cut ABS plastic.
I loved watching your little bot; especially after it got hit and then went all "Tazmanian Devil". I've been curious about machining tool steel on my 440 -- curious if you tried coolant?
I did try coolant. Unfortunately, I only have flood coolant and it has some problems on the 440. The drain is very small and clogs easily. So you'll be cutting one minute and then suddenly there's no coolant and you have to unclog the drain. With the amount of chips I was making, I would have had to clear the drain every 5 minutes or so, which would have been a huge pain. Secondly, the coolant gets everywhere. The doors aren't sealed, and if it sprays on them, it drips down on to the floor. So I opted to go without coolant. I'm working on a DIY fogbuster type thing which I would use next time.
That makes sense. I didn't install the flooder on my 440 and instead bought a Fogbuster which I found is nice and clean and works really well.
Yeah, I think that's what I'm going to switch to.
I really want to see this spinner in action!
My advice, just don't use a full body spinner.
The idea is very great, and it looks like a fun robot. But any damage your robot dishes out, it also has to hope its insides don't get torn apart from the same impact as well. Except it is more concentrated on the screws and the joints.
Captain shredderator is a good example. Was great in the early days, but machining and metal has come such a long way, FBS seem to struggle more and more.
Prove me wrong though, for that weight class I want to see one do good again.
I like the bot design. What caused your losses?
There are a lot of little issues. It doesn't drive very well, it needs much more powerful motors to overcome the inertia of the weapon. The weapon spins up too slowly, and it's not very stable when hit. My new beetleweight will hopefully fix these issues.
do you have the dimensions for the weapon I've been looking into building because of this vid:)
If you send me an email, I could just send you the file for the weapon. You can find my email address in the "about" section of my channel.
It won't let me access the email from there if you want to email me the file just send it to drbucketsfourteen@gmail.com
11:39 can I ask why no coolant? Is the mill not equipped with it? You could retrofit a tank and hose yourself. And what about roughing out the guts with a large fly cutter? Blue chips are good for roughing cuts. Are you using HSS or carbide cutters? Looks like carbide. But yeah, coolant and lots of it.
I'm a toolmaker that's done a lot of everything over the last nearly-20 years. I've worked in aerospace and electrical, fabrication and machining, and now getting a locksmithing qualification. I've been watching a lot of battlebots and robot wars lately and I think I want to build a fight bot next year. I caught on to your channel so I might check out a few more of your vids and sub. I have my ideas of what I'd like to do, but its never a bad thing to see how others are doing it.
I didn't have coolant setup, and this was the wrong way to cut it. I was using carbide. I should have had coolant on there. I'm not really a machinist, still learning!
@@RobertCowanDIY Awesome! Well, I believe I subbed, feel free to ask me anything about machining. Your vids will no doubt help me down the line so please do ask me here or feel free to pm me if you need any advice or tips.
I'm doing locksmithing now of all things. I miss machining and just making and designing in general.
Can you send me a link to the motor you used?
Think it's a turnigy multi-star something with a low kV
I would suggest sharpening the weapon so it doesn't make a 90 degree angle with the chassis but something closer to a 75 degree angle, this would give it a better bite when it hits another robot and it would give you a little more weight to play with as well. Awesome job though
Thanks! Yeah, messing with the geometry might be a good idea. I wanted a 90 degree profile so it 'whacks' the other guy rather than bites into them. I want to get a super slow motion camera to actually look at the impacts to see if anything can be improved upon.
You can use a flash, and a DSLR. May be a hobby photographer, with proper gear can help here. Use a laser/proximity sensor to trigger the flash.
But, you won't get video, but only photos.
I want more of a crash-test-dummy type of video for each impact. I've been looking at the new Sony cameras which do 960 fps, which could make for some great footage.
Robert Cowan, I think that you should really put more weight on the infill and the electronic. Plus, I'm pretty curious about why your robots never has belts. Other prople always tell me that the motors tend to break that way.
This robot was a test to see if I could put 2 pounds into the weapon. I never meant it to be an ideal design, just something for fun. I agree, it needs more weight in electronics and the body. But that wasn't the point. I use belts on my larger robots. For smaller weight classes, you can get by driving the weapon directly, if you take precautions. It's usually better to use belts as it transfers the shocks away from the motor. The downside to doing this is it takes up more space and takes up more weight. There's a trade-off. I generally just battle-harden my motors and make sure they're not rigidly coupled to the frame.
Do you have the links to the kamikaze in action?
Check the description, I added the playlist. There were only 2 fights (since he lost both, double-elimination).
Awesome, thanks! I love when it gets flipped upside down and starts spinning. I wonder if anyone thought for a moment that it was intentional.
Sure. Yeah, I had NO idea that could even happen. A few people asked if it was intentional, but it really wasn't. I didn't think the cones could support the weight like that, I thought they would just break off at the bottom.
have you thought about machining in some kind of "spoiler", or rather upward blowing fan, on the weapon so that you get a lot of downward force while the weapon is spinning, that should prevent the bot from flipping. that would limit your movement speed tho.
I had that idea, but there was just barely enough power to get the weapon up to speed, any kind of downforce would have slowed it down and could have caused issues with the battery or motor driver. Maybe next time ;-)
sportsman 30lbs sergeant cuddles, with a grippy vertical spinner... MAJOR SNUGGLES!
I MIGHT make a sportsman, but we'll see, not enough time!
when will you start making 'proper' robots like middleweights and heavy weights?
I REALLY want to. But a lightweight (60lb) costs around $5k to make and never really does well the first year, so it's a big expense. Plus there are only a few events throughout the year, so it's a large price to pay to only fight one or two times a year. If there was an event locally (I'm looking at you SparkFun) that could support lightweights, I'd build one right now. But as it stands, I have to travel to either coast for a competition, so that only adds to the expense.
stop milling and wait till it cools and use coolant, lower your speed and feed to reduce heating
Yes
try making a 120 pound robot for battlebots 2017
jellyfish music when's the 2017 battlebots?
Battle bots weight 250 lbs
Do you think it would cost a lot to have a local machine shop cut something down this small?
Yes, it will cost a lot. There is usually a setup fee, plus the time it takes, etc. Plus, most shops will charge you tooling since they may or may not have the appropriate bits to use on this material. It would be a couple hundred dollars at the very lowest.
wish i had the skills to design a chassis like that
What Motor Is that?
It's this one: hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-multistar-4822-490kv-22pole-multi-rotor-outrunner.html It's a pretty good motor, just needs more power.
Nasir Illasarie one thing I highly recommend is NOT doing direct drive, especially on a beetle. you need a few degrees of freedom for the shell to twist on its axis so it doesn't pull the chassis with and make it more likely to flip. when the weapon coins, the base can also stay more planted to the ground. I've been meaning to make a beetle and flea FBS to complement my ant, but am intimidated by the multiple hundreds of $ machinists ask for for a 2-setup operation.
great video! my rule of thumb for motor is it has enough thrust to fly the bot if it had a prop instead of a weapon
Dude you have an industrial cnc machine mill in your garage and some knowledge from spark fun I'd expect from you to build an alien space ship for that.
If I didn't have a job, I would be building spaceships left and right! I have the tools, just need more time ;-)
If you had a Patreon, I would totally chip in each month if it meant more videos.
Hum. Not a bad idea. I don't really need the money, it's just time. I have a bigger shop now and it makes doing the videos a lot quicker, so maybe that will help.
How do you have a 30k dollar mill and not know about a little thing called coolant?
Because he got his mill three years ago.
Can you help me to made a bot
Use one big sheet of aluminum r titanium for the top panel instead of multiple it will help
That is a great idea, IF there was any weight left. There's barely any weight for that, and putting any more metal into the design would make it overweight.
Shame its a really cool looking bot i think you could squeeze some weight out of the weapon maybe some teeth and as you said some holes or a fuller
haha..the sparkfun guy..
Don't know if this is a good thing or a bad thing but you are completely understandable at 4x playback speed.
HAHA, I need to try that out...
Could you build a bot capable of beating any house bot?
It depends :-) The house robots are VERY heavy. That's their main advantage. If there wasn't a limit on weight, I'm sure most people could build something to go up against them.
Robert Cowan True, but Apollo was able to incapacitate three, showing their weaknesses is being flipped. I think you should start there and then find something to offline them.
If the parts and tool are heating up and hardening the part why don't you use coolant ?
Good question. I was having trouble with the flood coolant draining and recirculating in the mill. There were too many chips and it was clogging the drain. I need to get a fogbuster. Also, I've read that when using carbide tooling, it's best to let the chip carry the heat away from the part. But I could be totally wrong there.
U should challenge the atla powerdog
like
At least it lived up to its name
Yep, that was the whole point of the robot ;-)
Just a wedge is a good robot
I dont kniw much about electronics or mechanical working but i have many wonderful ideas and I'm sure if i learned to do it i would make m uch more dominant robot than u
tosgem - Ah, that's what they all say, my friend. Wonderful ideas have a habit of falling to bits when they meet somebody else's ideas that are just a tiny little bit more wonderful! The best thing to do might be to try to learn everything you can about electronics and mechanical engineering, then put your ideas to the test against real guys like Robert. Anything else is just hopes and dreams - and we can ALL win in our dreams... ;-)
It looks like a buff rumba
those wheely boys too thin
5:25 combat robot people learn how bolted connections work challenge 2023. it's a shockingly common misconception, one i just recently learned about, so i can't exactly blame you. a correctly torqued bolted connection's shear strength does NOT come from the shear strength of the bolt, bolts are not designed for shear loading and when they are used to resist shear a different mechanism is at play. The shear strength of a bolted connection comes from the coefficient of static friction between the two pieces of material, multiplied by the pressure between the two pieces. you figure out the static friction between the two surfaces, you calculate the shearing force between the two surfaces, and you combine those to get the pressure needed. then you choose a size, type, and number of bolts that have sufficient tensile strength, and calculate the torque needed to produce the desired pressure. if you do this, the only stress on the bolt is tensile (which is what bolts are designed for), and all the shear load is distributed between the two surfaces in contact. that's why the gusset plates on bridges don't have giant shear pins going through them, it's the friction between the plate and the members that give it its strength.
this is not to say keying the weapon to the motor is a bad idea, i'm guessing it would be very difficult to get sufficient contact pressure out of such small screws over such a large face (and, a traditional friction-based bolted connection would need a LOT of pressure to correctly absorb the shock loading of a combat robot weapon), and your solution looks like some very solid positive engagement. just, worth understanding the failure modes; the bolted connection isn't really failing when it shears, it failed earlier, when the static friction broke and the surfaces slipped. this distinction may not be important in this realm, but if you're scaling up and the forces you're dealing with grow, it's important to understand how bolts are and aren't designed to work.
(also, i talk a big game in the first paragraph but i'm not a professional engineer, i don't do those calculations and don't even own a torque wrench. i haven't run into a project where i needed to care about getting high shear performance out of a bolted connection, so i just take the equations, throw away all the weird constants and stuff, replace the equals signs with "proportional to" signs, and fold it into my largely vibes-based mental model of how things work. so the whole point of raising this distinction isn't to try to force you to do a ton of math, just to update how you visualize bolted connections when you're Rotating A Robot In Your Mind)
i guess the one practical implication at this scale is: if your goal is to prevent any shear load from being transferred to the screws, make sure that the clearance in your screw holes is larger than the tolerance in your locking patterns, so that when the joint is fully "bottomed out" against the limit, there's still some clearance around the screw in both holes.
Combat robots are always a bit strange. They of course follow the rules of physics, but fasteners are seemingly never enough. We've bent and warped 1"+ bolts, and even pulled them out and stripped all the threads off. MOST specs will list loads assuming they're relatively static, not these sudden dynamic loads.
Yeah, correct. This is a technique that's now commonly used/adopted by other builders. Also, there's a lot of vibration and rotational forces which can loosen the mating surfaces and every time power is applied to the motor, it can worsen the situation. Keying the parts together mostly solves these issues.
@@RobertCowanDIY that makes sense. i guess combat robots is sort of a worst case in that your opponent is constantly trying to subvert any engineering assumptions you bring to the design process. i do think it's useful to keep in mind the intended performance of things like bolts, if you know your application is going to break the rules (say, shock loading will overcome the static friction and apply shear to the bolt), it's useful to have a mental model of how the bolt will perform (since to me at least it's really counter intuitive). or understanding that the bolt's functioning will be in one of two distinct regimes depending on the circumstances. and then you can account for it better by either making sure you choose a large enough bolt, or adding some additional keying to the joint. which admittedly, is exactly what you did, so i guess in the end i'm mostly being pedantic
@@spambot7110Yep, correct! Usually you would design for an axial load, or radial, etc. But with this, the forces are a "yes". And it's all shock and high dynamic loads, which you would normally just avoid or minimize, but you can't do that here. With bolts, you need to ask yourself "is that where I want weight?" Sure, you can think about making them appropriately sized, but then you're adding 10-20% extra in weight. I feel it's best to design them out and rely on them as little as possible. My more modern designs rely on fasteners less and less. I've had ideas of completely getting rid of fasteners, or just having a single large fastener that holds everything together. I don't like weight in fasteners is the short story ;-)
Why did u give it the name that I did
Kamikaze basically means self-destructive.
Good Work but I only find these kind of vids in America
Nothing really serious in Europe
'MERICA!
Making your weapon more than half of you overall mass is not a good idea. You won't have any stability or control. The weapon will want to spin the body. Awesome bot though and great video.
But that was the whole design challenge. This wasn't meant to be a competitive bot, just one for fun. I wanted to see how heavy the weapon could be.
The second flower you show looks like a hot tub.
haha, totally!
:)
誰も生きて 出ません
and its be joke when meet speed wedge3..u need placed more tire at corner side or make u tire not to deep inside😂😂😂😂
Is It Georgian Robot? Because Kamikadze Is Georgian :D
Dang, what's with all the yakking? 🧐🤦♂️🙄I wanted to see some action. 😒😞
Check the description, that has a link to all the fight videos, this video isn't about the fights, it's about yakking.
I see. 😒 But I did check out the link...oh, minibots, ok. liked the vid where Kamikaze turns into a spinning top.🤣
Click bait to me. I expected to see action like the other channels.
lol, not clickbait. I have a whole playlist for the bot, with fights. There's even a playlist in the description.
I will check it out.
This machine is too weak to fight
im gay
Congrats!
if dis bot vs razer,u die man
Bla bla bla talking toooo much...
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed the video!