Much thanks for your detailed coverage of the Blickmann Commander controller. I'm considering this controller so this it timely for me but I'm a couple years behind the curve.
I've been meaning to buy a shirt to support you and your channel that has helped me so much and just did after a quick Google search for RIMS protect popped up and was exactly what I was looking for. I also just had a few swigs of Not Not Corona so that might have lubed me up a little! Thanks Bryan!
Great review. As a BIAB brewer with the BrewCommander, my experience has been great. I have brewed about 10 batches (from 6gal. to 15 gal. ) and has performed flawlessly.
Nice video. Been waiting a while to see this review! I have a LP HERMS system now and want to go electric next year. Can you show your setup with this and your HERMS? The offset between the HLT and MT still confuses me.
Once I decide on what I'm gonna do I will do another update. The offset is just a difference between the actual temp in the HLT vs the temperature in the mash tun. There's always a little heat loss between then two vessels. 👍🍻
Thank you for this very thorough directional how too. Have you ever considered doing a how-to brew day on a Blichmann Breweasy? It would be very helpful.
@@silveraven1 I'll see what I can do!! 😉 the only one that I remember standng out is one on great fermentations channel. Only thing is it made me a little dizzy with a GoPro mounted on the guys head.. Lol
After watching your Grainfather vidya today, I said screw it. I went and hit Great Fermentations up for a 20 Gallon Breweasy that now comes with the Brew Commander and a Riptide. Thanks for test driving all these rigs for me brother. Cheers. Time to break some habits.
Great video as always Brian. I was curious what your thoughts are when comparing this new BrewCommander to the previous Tower of Power model. I'm in the process of building out my system, and already own the 240v Tower of Power and was possibly considering selling it to get this new model. Would there be any foreseeable pros/cons to doing so, or would you recommend I keep the Tower of Power? Thank you in advance for your time.
The tower of power is a completely capable controller. The BrewCommander has some more advanced features. One difference is the T O P has a switch to disconnect the element from direct power. The BrewCommander does not have this option. As I stated in the video. If you are wanting to do step mashes, or delayed start heating it may be a worthwhile upgrade. 👍🍻
Great video thank you. My issue the furst time using it was the heat was cycling on. Ive learned since it seems tue burner has to be manually set at 100% in order for the controller to turn on the burner at the indicated time and temp. Is that right?
Great video Brian. Still in the planning stages of my build. Could you use just one of these in a HERMS system? Just unplug the HLT and plug in for the boil?
You could do that. Or even use the blichmam power controller. The Olympics issue is that you would only have one plug switch. The riptide has a switch, but if your pumps don't you'd have to manually plug and unplug it for one of the vessels since in a HERMS setup both pumps run during the mash. Great question! 👍🍻
Nice video, Brian... so... if I'm not mistaken you had a controller very similar to Kal Wallner's Electric Brewery and, it seems to me, the advantage BrewCommander has over this is the ability to set up a ramp schedule and just let it run, whereas in order to do this with your current setup you'd have to manually dial the temperature for the next ramp... and I'm assuming your PIDs don't have this functionality, since there are models on the market that do. Apart from this, do you feel BrewCommander would really add all that much to your system and your brewing process? Cheers from Portugal...
I don't know that it would make better beer. I do like all the attributes you mentioned. Is it enough for me to spend money when control panel work? I don't know there are a lot of things I need to consider monetarily. I'm not committed to changing just yet. We'll see.. All great points and questions! Cheers! 👍🍻
Mark McNair I have not. I talked to Emmet once upon a time and they never got back to me. I think they have a fine system. I would go with a 240 v option personally because the 120 lacks power to boil without the lid being almost completely on. The basket is nice for sure. I’m not really excited about the spray nozzle for the return in the kettle, just for clogging reasons. I have not heard of any clogs though as long as you get all your grains in the basket lol I would not be opposed to doing a review on it. Let them know you would like to see my review on one and maybe I can do one. Cheers! 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thank you so much for the thoughtful reply! I will be letting them know that I prefer seeing reviews done by you before buying!
Hey Brian I have a basic question about using this for HERMS. I own this controller already for BIAB, and if I wanted to change to HERMS would I get the relay module or would I need to unplug the mash tun and plug in the boil kettle temp probe and heating element?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers not exactly fair since the Auber cube is the same price and now comes with the DSPR320 that does have mash profile program ability. It's not touch screen but it does have a few extra goodies like an extra pump outlet/switch and at hard shut down of the hot lines when not in use.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Auber dropped the price quite a bit to stay competitive with Blich but I am not really actively selling Auber at the moment so I don't have a dog in the hunt.
Good review and I thought very fair of its good points and misses. I thought that I would like if for my 2000 watt 120 volt rims system, if my home built PID controller ever died. Two of the things that I would miss is the temp sensor triclamped installed in my rims tube which I just have to unplug the wire and the autotune function. With autotune I don't have overshoots and my rims tube temp and insulated mash tun is withing .3 degrees. I am not sure that this could achieve that without a headache. If it could I would consider getting one, if an option for a triclamp temp sensor with a detachable cable came out.
There is a tri camp adapter. (Forgot to mention it) so that might work well. The auto tune might not be a necessity.. I'll know more once I use it some more. 👍🍻
I’ve been looking at the 10 gallon Pro Pilot system, 15 gal HLT, & MT with a 20 gallon BK. The issue I have, I’ve brewed a few 10 gallon batches where I really didn’t have enough room in my Spike 15 gal MT. The issue with moving up to the 15 gal system, (20 gal HLT & MT with a 30 gal BK) I’d no longer be able to brew 5 gallon batches, the wort level would cover the boil coil. I’m now thinking of going with the 15 gal, gas system.
Note, I scale all my 5 gallon batches to 6 gallons, and my 10 gallon batches to 12 gallons. It’s wort the extra cost to get FULL kegs. I never have a keg that’s not completely full.
I've brewed a lot of 5 gallon batches in a 20 gallon kettle.. The boil coil sits low enough to do it in the blichmann kettle. I can't speak to other kettles though.
Short Circuited Brewers yes the 20 gallon but I don’t think you could in the 30 gallon. What would actually work best for me would be the 10 gallon system, but get it with a 20 gallon MT and HLT, not the 15 gallon kettles it comes with.
Great vid Brian. I like this system but I have same concerns as you stated before I jump in. Probably needs some more development and adjustments so it’s more flexible. I have an EBC that operates on a single 30amp breaker circuit and it has built in 120v outlets for both pumps.
I'm at a toss up right now. Do I convert my current system with this or do I get an all in one like the brewzilla? Haven't made the leap yet to electric.
Hey Brian, I'm thinking about getting two of these for my 3 vessel setup. My mash tun is a RIMS tube setup. I'm curious about the delayed start function with this. Does it turn on both the pump and the heating element? I would assume it would have to if you have the RiMS protection feature on. Having delayed start is a huge deal for me.
It only turns on the element. The other thing about the RIMS protect is it only "works" once you have everything running. Not from the beginning. I not sure I mentioned that in my video. 👍🍻
Thanks for the quick response. Ok so if that doesn't work, what about leaving the pump on during the night and have the delay kick the element on during in the morning? Is it able to do the delayed start that way?
@@armyguy209 yes you could do that. One way you could "delayed start" The pump is to put a "smart plug" in between the pump and the commander. And program it to come in before the heater does. This is a suggestion I will make to John. The software is upgradeable in the brew commander. Thanks for the comments! 👍🍻
The other thing I was going to ask about was why is there a potentiometer incorporated into this? What should it be set at during mash and boil? Thanks!
Is the temperature probe a K type two wire probe? I’d like to use this probe and it’s bulkhead with my home built PID controller. The controller already has a two wire connector installed. Thanks, Bob
I have the 240v brew commander and have brewed a couple of times with it. It does a good job at holding a steady temperature but my big complaint about this unit is there is CONSTANT power running to the heater even when it’s not supposed to be heating. In fact, there is power running to the heating element even when the entire unit is turned off using the main power switch. I thought my unit was defective and sent it back to Blichmann and they said they couldn’t find anything wrong with it. So when I’m not brewing, I can’t leave my system hooked up and when brewing if I don’t want the element on, I have to unplug it. I don’t think I would have bought this if I had known that.
I used my multi-meter and get 120v out of one of the legs of the 240v outlet to the heating element, even when the unit is off. I have my unit plugged into a 30amp gfci outlet. I have seen many of your videos and know you’re pretty handy. If you could test yours and see if you’re getting the same results, I would really appreciate it!
@@swchampi That is because SSRs are current switches, not voltage switches. It will not let your element fire unless the SSR is faulty. When the SSR is in the off position, you will be able to measure 240 volts on the output but it will not pass any measurable current.
Thanks Bobby! I will check that out. I assumed that if power was leaving the commander from the outlet to the heater, the element was heating. I will check it out and post the results. Thanks again for your input.
If I'm being perfectly honest about this unit, the fact that the system relies on a fixed ramp time for the mash scheduling makes it an almost unusable feature unless you build yourself a table for ramp heat times per mash volume. In other words, if you set your ramp time in the menu to 2d/M based on 9 gallon mash, the moment you do an 8 gallon mash, that setting is now wrong. Why Blichmann couldn't have the mash timers start upon reaching the next target temp is beyond me and it better have been a programming impossibility rather than a feature.
The current method is actually spot on. First off, the BrewCommander's process value probe will be placed in either the HLT or the wort recirculation path of the RIMS. The true temperature of the mash will lag behind the PV. If the mash step-timer started as soon as the process value hit the set point, it would start the timer long before mash was truly up to temperature. Once you know about how fast your mash heats, a variation of a pound or two of grain will only change the heat time by 10-20% which is easy to change the value from 2.0 to 1.8 or 1.6 if that's the case. Step mashing is hard to program for every system in every configuration of brewery, but its a pretty solid method if set up as described.
@@steventrott8714 Yeah but guess what, this is as much, if not moreso a BIAB single vessel controller than it is a HERMS controller. In BIAB rigs, or even the 2 vessel brew easy, the mash reaches temp when the probe senses so. Like I said, ramp time is going to be affected by batch size as well as OG/grain bill. In addition it's going to be affected by ambient temp variations for people who brew in unconditioned spaces. If anything it should have had the option to start step timers on PV=SV or by ramp time.
Does brew commander have any ability to set the boil temp? I live at 5800 ft and te boiling point here is 201% so a full 212 degree boil can end up in scorching wort.
Don't see why not.. The power is seperate from the signal. It would work I think? You'd just have to unplug the rims tube once your done with the mash.
They were a conclusion of my initial look at all the features that I went through in the video. My final thoughts on it will be after I brew with it. 👍🍻
With the breweasy system even though it’s a K-RIMS would you use the RIMS protect option? Or would this affect when yo go to boil? I guess it would require running the pump throughout the boil. Any suggested change in settings for the BrewEasy?
Not really necessary on the breweasy as you don't have a small amount of wort confined in a small tube with an element. The boil coil is super low watt density and the possibility of scorching is almost non-existent. You do want to watch out for the element to stay submerged. But that was not an issue with the auto sparge and the proper orifice in the return tube. 👍🍻
Great Video Brian! The on screen corrections... eh em, edits let us know you’re human and have a sense of humor. Super helpful!
Lol that I am!! Thanks!! 👍🍻
Much thanks for your detailed coverage of the Blickmann Commander controller. I'm considering this controller so this it timely for me but I'm a couple years behind the curve.
For the price and features you can't beat it! 👍🍻
I've been meaning to buy a shirt to support you and your channel that has helped me so much and just did after a quick Google search for RIMS protect popped up and was exactly what I was looking for. I also just had a few swigs of Not Not Corona so that might have lubed me up a little! Thanks Bryan!
Thanks man!! 👍🍻
Great review. As a BIAB brewer with the BrewCommander, my experience has been great. I have brewed about 10 batches (from 6gal. to 15 gal. ) and has performed flawlessly.
Good to here.. I think it is great for that purpose!
That was helpful. Thank you. Waiting for 2 L6-30 extensions and i will be putting my controllers to work.
👍🍻
Nicely done Brian. Looks like a nice piece of kit :)
Thanks David!! It certainly checks a lot of boxes! 👍🍻
Short Circuited Brewers Yes, looks very capable :)
Very informative, thanks for all the hard work into putting together concise content.
Thanks!! I try to be respectful of people's time. I appreciate the comments! 👍🍻
Great overview. Bought the brew commander for my new ebiab setup.
Nice! I think it is a really good option for that purpose.. I'm thinking of doing a video on using it that way. 👍🍻
Great informational video Brian. I'm looking to upgrade to the electric system and this is a option for sure.
Cheers
Thanks SJ! It looks like a great option to me.. I just need to figure a couple things out. Cheers! 👍🍻
Insightful video, i really love the brew commander, super easy to use.
Thanks! It is quite user friendly. I really would like to use 2 for my HERMS system. Cheers! 👍🍻
Nice video. Been waiting a while to see this review! I have a LP HERMS system now and want to go electric next year. Can you show your setup with this and your HERMS? The offset between the HLT and MT still confuses me.
Once I decide on what I'm gonna do I will do another update. The offset is just a difference between the actual temp in the HLT vs the temperature in the mash tun. There's always a little heat loss between then two vessels. 👍🍻
Thank you for this very thorough directional how too. Have you ever considered doing a how-to brew day on a Blichmann Breweasy? It would be very helpful.
I have not been asked about that before. Good idea though!
Short Circuited Brewers there are some out there but they’re not very professional or well laid out like your videos 👍🏻
@@silveraven1 I'll see what I can do!! 😉 the only one that I remember standng out is one on great fermentations channel. Only thing is it made me a little dizzy with a GoPro mounted on the guys head.. Lol
@@silveraven1 maybe you have seen it.. But here it is. ua-cam.com/video/gDJLzAXZbFw/v-deo.html
Short Circuited Brewers yes thanks, I did watch this vid and I was out as soon I saw him dump all those grains in the mash tun at once... a big no no.
After watching your Grainfather vidya today, I said screw it. I went and hit Great Fermentations up for a 20 Gallon Breweasy that now comes with the Brew Commander and a Riptide. Thanks for test driving all these rigs for me brother. Cheers. Time to break some habits.
Haha! Thanks man! Glad it helped!
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers If this thing was to fail, how do you think it would fail to open, or to closed?
@@beeroquoisnation open is generally the position that SSRs fail to.
Great video as always Brian. I was curious what your thoughts are when comparing this new BrewCommander to the previous Tower of Power model. I'm in the process of building out my system, and already own the 240v Tower of Power and was possibly considering selling it to get this new model. Would there be any foreseeable pros/cons to doing so, or would you recommend I keep the Tower of Power? Thank you in advance for your time.
The tower of power is a completely capable controller. The BrewCommander has some more advanced features. One difference is the T O P has a switch to disconnect the element from direct power. The BrewCommander does not have this option. As I stated in the video. If you are wanting to do step mashes, or delayed start heating it may be a worthwhile upgrade. 👍🍻
Great video thank you. My issue the furst time using it was the heat was cycling on. Ive learned since it seems tue burner has to be manually set at 100% in order for the controller to turn on the burner at the indicated time and temp. Is that right?
It depends on how you have it setup. If it's in mash mode it will cycle to keep the temp steady. 👍🍻
Great video Brian. Still in the planning stages of my build. Could you use just one of these in a HERMS system? Just unplug the HLT and plug in for the boil?
Dave Deganich I also wonder if adding a relay module would eliminate need to change plugs.
You could do that. Or even use the blichmam power controller. The Olympics issue is that you would only have one plug switch. The riptide has a switch, but if your pumps don't you'd have to manually plug and unplug it for one of the vessels since in a HERMS setup both pumps run during the mash. Great question! 👍🍻
You could add a relay but you can't switch between relays so at the very least you'd have to unplug the HLT element after the mash. Good question! 👍🍻
Nice video, Brian... so... if I'm not mistaken you had a controller very similar to Kal Wallner's Electric Brewery and, it seems to me, the advantage BrewCommander has over this is the ability to set up a ramp schedule and just let it run, whereas in order to do this with your current setup you'd have to manually dial the temperature for the next ramp... and I'm assuming your PIDs don't have this functionality, since there are models on the market that do. Apart from this, do you feel BrewCommander would really add all that much to your system and your brewing process? Cheers from Portugal...
I don't know that it would make better beer. I do like all the attributes you mentioned. Is it enough for me to spend money when control panel work? I don't know there are a lot of things I need to consider monetarily. I'm not committed to changing just yet. We'll see.. All great points and questions! Cheers! 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers If you were starting from scratch, would you get two brewcommanders or go with your Kal style control panel?
Looks like a nice unit. It will be nice to see it in action during a real brew. I’ll be available Fridays and Saturdays starting in March 😉🍻
Now wait a minute!! I saw one in your last video up on top of the hood! Lol you thought I missed it huh.. 👍🍻😜
True, but that one controls gas. Where’s the video you ask? Oh... it’s coming. 😎
@@HomeBrewingTV lol cool!
I'd like to know your thoughts on Clawhammer's BIAB system. It doesn't look like you've reviewed any of there stuff?
Mark McNair I have not. I talked to Emmet once upon a time and they never got back to me. I think they have a fine system. I would go with a 240 v option personally because the 120 lacks power to boil without the lid being almost completely on. The basket is nice for sure. I’m not really excited about the spray nozzle for the return in the kettle, just for clogging reasons. I have not heard of any clogs though as long as you get all your grains in the basket lol I would not be opposed to doing a review on it. Let them know you would like to see my review on one and maybe I can do one. Cheers! 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Thank you so much for the thoughtful reply! I will be letting them know that I prefer seeing reviews done by you before buying!
@@markmcnair5864 haha! Sounds good! Cheers!
Hey Brian I have a basic question about using this for HERMS. I own this controller already for BIAB, and if I wanted to change to HERMS would I get the relay module or would I need to unplug the mash tun and plug in the boil kettle temp probe and heating element?
I bet the answer is: you need 2 controllers for HERMS…
looks like Blichmann is bringing it, seem super capable especially at that price point.
Yeah compared to everything out there.. It is the most feature rich and best price. The nearest competition is almost $100 more. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers not exactly fair since the Auber cube is the same price and now comes with the DSPR320 that does have mash profile program ability. It's not touch screen but it does have a few extra goodies like an extra pump outlet/switch and at hard shut down of the hot lines when not in use.
@@BobbyFromNJ for some reason I thought they were more. I stand corrected. The hard shut offs are a plus.. I know you sell them as well. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Auber dropped the price quite a bit to stay competitive with Blich but I am not really actively selling Auber at the moment so I don't have a dog in the hunt.
Good review and I thought very fair of its good points and misses. I thought that I would like if for my 2000 watt 120 volt rims system, if my home built PID controller ever died. Two of the things that I would miss is the temp sensor triclamped installed in my rims tube which I just have to unplug the wire and the autotune function. With autotune I don't have overshoots and my rims tube temp and insulated mash tun is withing .3 degrees. I am not sure that this could achieve that without a headache. If it could I would consider getting one, if an option for a triclamp temp sensor with a detachable cable came out.
There is a tri camp adapter. (Forgot to mention it) so that might work well. The auto tune might not be a necessity.. I'll know more once I use it some more. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers thanks. Is the triclamp a built in thermometer or a thermowell?
@@cfrazier1977 think it's threaded to accept the probe with a bushing.
I'm looking at buying an older Breweasy with the "Tower of Power." Do you know if it can be easily updated to the Brew Commander?
Yes it should be able to be updated with not much effort.
These look schmick! Thanks for the detailed overview mate
Absolutely! Thanks for watching! 👍🍻
I’ve been looking at the 10 gallon Pro Pilot system, 15 gal HLT, & MT with a 20 gallon BK. The issue I have, I’ve brewed a few 10 gallon batches where I really didn’t have enough room in my Spike 15 gal MT. The issue with moving up to the 15 gal system, (20 gal HLT & MT with a 30 gal BK) I’d no longer be able to brew 5 gallon batches, the wort level would cover the boil coil. I’m now thinking of going with the 15 gal, gas system.
Note, I scale all my 5 gallon batches to 6 gallons, and my 10 gallon batches to 12 gallons. It’s wort the extra cost to get FULL kegs. I never have a keg that’s not completely full.
I've brewed a lot of 5 gallon batches in a 20 gallon kettle.. The boil coil sits low enough to do it in the blichmann kettle. I can't speak to other kettles though.
Short Circuited Brewers yes the 20 gallon but I don’t think you could in the 30 gallon. What would actually work best for me would be the 10 gallon system, but get it with a 20 gallon MT and HLT, not the 15 gallon kettles it comes with.
@@barrystephens900 gotcha..
Would love to see someone review the gas version. 👍
I have not seen one yet myself.. 👍🍻
Great vid Brian. I like this system but I have same concerns as you stated before I jump in. Probably needs some more development and adjustments so it’s more flexible. I have an EBC that operates on a single 30amp breaker circuit and it has built in 120v outlets for both pumps.
Yeah Mike I have a few ideas in need to explore.. There will be more on this for sure! 👍🍻 cheers!
I'm at a toss up right now. Do I convert my current system with this or do I get an all in one like the brewzilla? Haven't made the leap yet to electric.
Yeah there are so many options now for going electric!! 👍🍻
Hey Brian,
I'm thinking about getting two of these for my 3 vessel setup. My mash tun is a RIMS tube setup. I'm curious about the delayed start function with this. Does it turn on both the pump and the heating element? I would assume it would have to if you have the RiMS protection feature on. Having delayed start is a huge deal for me.
It only turns on the element. The other thing about the RIMS protect is it only "works" once you have everything running. Not from the beginning. I not sure I mentioned that in my video. 👍🍻
Thanks for the quick response. Ok so if that doesn't work, what about leaving the pump on during the night and have the delay kick the element on during in the morning? Is it able to do the delayed start that way?
@@armyguy209 yes you could do that. One way you could "delayed start" The pump is to put a "smart plug" in between the pump and the commander. And program it to come in before the heater does. This is a suggestion I will make to John. The software is upgradeable in the brew commander. Thanks for the comments! 👍🍻
The other thing I was going to ask about was why is there a potentiometer incorporated into this? What should it be set at during mash and boil?
Thanks!
There is not a potentiometer. There is a PWM mode for boil control.
I like this product, but I have a question brother. Does the boil profile only offer 3 timed hop notifiers?
It offers 7 actually. I may not have pointed that out.. I only showed programming 3 in the video. 👍🍻
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers I'll take two. How much for shipping? LOL Drink Up.
Is the temperature probe a K type two wire probe? I’d like to use this probe and it’s bulkhead with my home built PID controller. The controller already has a two wire connector installed.
Thanks,
Bob
I think it is? I only saw one ring on the 3.5mm plug. I can't say for sure. You might want to confirm with Blichmann on it.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers thanks. I only saw the two parts on the plug, too. I’ve sent a question to Blichmann. I’ll let you know their answer.
@@mosesmcrae ok please do.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers Blichmann says it’s an NTC Thermistor. I’ll have look to see if the Inkbird 106-VH recognizes those.
@@mosesmcrae interesting.. ok let me know what you find.
Love to see this for the gas unit
I believe there is one
I have the 240v brew commander and have brewed a couple of times with it. It does a good job at holding a steady temperature but my big complaint about this unit is there is CONSTANT power running to the heater even when it’s not supposed to be heating. In fact, there is power running to the heating element even when the entire unit is turned off using the main power switch. I thought my unit was defective and sent it back to Blichmann and they said they couldn’t find anything wrong with it. So when I’m not brewing, I can’t leave my system hooked up and when brewing if I don’t want the element on, I have to unplug it. I don’t think I would have bought this if I had known that.
Hmm that's strange how are you measuring the voltage to the element is it hot?
I used my multi-meter and get 120v out of one of the legs of the 240v outlet to the heating element, even when the unit is off. I have my unit plugged into a 30amp gfci outlet. I have seen many of your videos and know you’re pretty handy. If you could test yours and see if you’re getting the same results, I would really appreciate it!
@@swchampi That is because SSRs are current switches, not voltage switches. It will not let your element fire unless the SSR is faulty. When the SSR is in the off position, you will be able to measure 240 volts on the output but it will not pass any measurable current.
Thanks Bobby! I will check that out. I assumed that if power was leaving the commander from the outlet to the heater, the element was heating. I will check it out and post the results. Thanks again for your input.
If I'm being perfectly honest about this unit, the fact that the system relies on a fixed ramp time for the mash scheduling makes it an almost unusable feature unless you build yourself a table for ramp heat times per mash volume. In other words, if you set your ramp time in the menu to 2d/M based on 9 gallon mash, the moment you do an 8 gallon mash, that setting is now wrong. Why Blichmann couldn't have the mash timers start upon reaching the next target temp is beyond me and it better have been a programming impossibility rather than a feature.
I hear you.. I believe the controller has a micro sd slot if memory serves for updates. Maybe they can fix it with an update. Cheers Bobby! 👍🍻
The current method is actually spot on. First off, the BrewCommander's process value probe will be placed in either the HLT or the wort recirculation path of the RIMS. The true temperature of the mash will lag behind the PV. If the mash step-timer started as soon as the process value hit the set point, it would start the timer long before mash was truly up to temperature. Once you know about how fast your mash heats, a variation of a pound or two of grain will only change the heat time by 10-20% which is easy to change the value from 2.0 to 1.8 or 1.6 if that's the case. Step mashing is hard to program for every system in every configuration of brewery, but its a pretty solid method if set up as described.
@@steventrott8714 good to hear.
@@steventrott8714 Yeah but guess what, this is as much, if not moreso a BIAB single vessel controller than it is a HERMS controller. In BIAB rigs, or even the 2 vessel brew easy, the mash reaches temp when the probe senses so. Like I said, ramp time is going to be affected by batch size as well as OG/grain bill. In addition it's going to be affected by ambient temp variations for people who brew in unconditioned spaces. If anything it should have had the option to start step timers on PV=SV or by ramp time.
Short Circuited Brewers You’ve got some pull with Blichmann, make it happen buddy! 👍🏻😁🍻
Nice overview
Thanks!! 🍻👍
Does brew commander have any ability to set the boil temp? I live at 5800 ft and te boiling point here is 201% so a full 212 degree boil can end up in scorching wort.
I'll have to check. I am not sure.
You control the boil by power percentage not temperature.
So I have a RIM system that uses 110v and my boil kettle is 220v. Can I get a 220v controller and add a 110 module?
Don't see why not.. The power is seperate from the signal. It would work I think? You'd just have to unplug the rims tube once your done with the mash.
Thanks! Great job on the videos. I wish you did more, but that’s easy for me to say.
Lol. I'm working on being more consistent!! 🍻👍
Great video, however I would have liked to see the connection, thermo sensor and the unit it self, otherwise great presentation. 👍
Thanks! I'll. Be skiing a brew day with it as well.. I'll show more then. 👍🍻
Would you neee to use the brew version with this
Why would you need a brew vision? I know it will import recipes etc.
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers i was looking at doing a Custom brew kettle and this was an option then you get add on for the thermometer for free
@@Kberrysal oh ok..
It sure looks nice
Definitely has a lot to offer for the price!
Do you need to have a Auto sparge arm with a FLOW METER
What type of meter? Digital?
I need more information. The blichmam sparge arm? Is the flow meter connected to a pump control?
@@ShortCircuitedBrewers ok
No safety for dry fire element?
There is the on/off/auto software switch, but no mechanical disconnect as I had stated in the video.
Why are the Initial Thoughts at the end?
They were a conclusion of my initial look at all the features that I went through in the video. My final thoughts on it will be after I brew with it. 👍🍻
🍺🍺👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks!! 👍🍻
🤑$$$$🤑
Lol
Alex Jones?
Look out for the lizard people!!
With the breweasy system even though it’s a K-RIMS would you use the RIMS protect option? Or would this affect when yo go to boil? I guess it would require running the pump throughout the boil. Any suggested change in settings for the BrewEasy?
Not really necessary on the breweasy as you don't have a small amount of wort confined in a small tube with an element. The boil coil is super low watt density and the possibility of scorching is almost non-existent. You do want to watch out for the element to stay submerged. But that was not an issue with the auto sparge and the proper orifice in the return tube. 👍🍻