I'd happily apply for a position at the hypothetical EpicTV USA! As a side note, I'd consider clipping the chains the equivalent of topping out a boulder. While yes, you've gotten through the route, I don't believe it's truly done until you have left the problem, or are no longer climbing, in control. As a side-side note, I'd reckon that free solos are in the same category as high-ball boulders, so Alex's climbs would count (in this tongue-in-cheek debate) as he topped out and stepped away from the route, "in control."
Thank you for introducing me to Annie Chouinard! As a 147cm climber with a negative ape ratio, I am always looking for more inspiration from fellow shorties to shut up with my "ugh I can't reach" excuses and simply train harder and get stronger!
Either you clip the chains or climb past them and jump off the top but if you are too pumped to top out or clip the chains you don’t get the send in my opinion
In my opinion, to finish a sport climb in good fashion you should at least clip the first bolt (or second bolt if there is potential for a ground fall from the first) and the chains on a route to consider it "sent". This way the climb has a definitive start and finish, and if you want to take a victory whip at the top then by all means unclip the chains and fly.
"OUUUUCH...JUST 5 MINUTES MORE... NO WAIT THE VIDEO IS 20 MINUTES LONG! 10 MINUTES MORE!" (Me getting used to my new shoes by challenging myself to wear them throughout the video at home on the sofa)
Why do you guys barely cover Lonnie Kauk? His dad Ron Kauk opened up Magic Line and Lonnie was the first to climb it on gear. I sent Matt a DM about Lonnie Kauk like a year ago and he had no clue who he was. And this was after Lonnie competed crazy highballs like Too Big To Flail (which was covered by EpicTV, so I’m not sure why Matt had no clue who he was).
dont clipping the chains is like running a maraton but when you get to the finishline you run to your car and drive home, you done the miles but not finishing the race..
My personal opinion on the ethics: clipping all of the quickdraws and chains is required for a send. Not waiting for a clip is allowing you to bypass that little extra pump, and if you skip the chains at the top that signifies that you didn't have control. That's what I was taught anyway.
I was told difficulty should not lie in clipping the draws but in the actual climbing. What about the extra mental you need when last draw is 6m behind ? Does it not count as much as the extra pump ?
It winds me up when you refer to woman's comp competitors as "the females", but to say Babzi Zangerl is "the female" with the most assents is just weird. Stop it.
@@chrisesson2204 Male and female. Men/Man and Women/Woman. All fulfill the same semantic function of binary gender identification. No issue. No problem.
Nope. Male and female refer to biological sex, not gender. Since were talking here about people's sporting and cultural achievements, I'd rather we didn't refer to them as if what mattered were their chromosomes and gonads
I'd happily apply for a position at the hypothetical EpicTV USA!
As a side note, I'd consider clipping the chains the equivalent of topping out a boulder. While yes, you've gotten through the route, I don't believe it's truly done until you have left the problem, or are no longer climbing, in control.
As a side-side note, I'd reckon that free solos are in the same category as high-ball boulders, so Alex's climbs would count (in this tongue-in-cheek debate) as he topped out and stepped away from the route, "in control."
Thank you for introducing me to Annie Chouinard! As a 147cm climber with a negative ape ratio, I am always looking for more inspiration from fellow shorties to shut up with my "ugh I can't reach" excuses and simply train harder and get stronger!
Either you clip the chains or climb past them and jump off the top but if you are too pumped to top out or clip the chains you don’t get the send in my opinion
This!
Please do a video with you both going Scottish Winter climbing. Come on Matt you know you love it.
Given how many people I've seen make desperate throws to the top and then miss the anchor clip, I'd say it's a must for a full send.
In my opinion, to finish a sport climb in good fashion you should at least clip the first bolt (or second bolt if there is potential for a ground fall from the first) and the chains on a route to consider it "sent". This way the climb has a definitive start and finish, and if you want to take a victory whip at the top then by all means unclip the chains and fly.
I know some of my past projects, clipping the chains was the last move!
"OUUUUCH...JUST 5 MINUTES MORE... NO WAIT THE VIDEO IS 20 MINUTES LONG! 10 MINUTES MORE!"
(Me getting used to my new shoes by challenging myself to wear them throughout the video at home on the sofa)
Why do you guys barely cover Lonnie Kauk? His dad Ron Kauk opened up Magic Line and Lonnie was the first to climb it on gear. I sent Matt a DM about Lonnie Kauk like a year ago and he had no clue who he was. And this was after Lonnie competed crazy highballs like Too Big To Flail (which was covered by EpicTV, so I’m not sure why Matt had no clue who he was).
No coverage of the Emily Harrington accident in Yosemite? Really?
That was going to be my comment too. It's the #1 thing that comes up on Google.
Is there a chance this was filmed before the news came out?
@@saulsarry likely
dont clipping the chains is like running a maraton but when you get to the finishline you run to your car and drive home, you done the miles but not finishing the race..
SÄNK YU FOR TALKING ABOUT ZE ROTPUNKT MOVIE!!!
😆 excellent...SANK YU! 🙏
I wonder how many free's by Beth Rodden
you can always do a victory jump instead of clipping the anchor ;)
How about epicTV Brazil?
If your waist is above the chains, a victory whip should count as a redpoint.
Epic TV Canada?
I hope Adam will make it to the Olympics
If you want an EpicTV Canada hit me up. I got some of the best Canadian climbing in my backyard.
yea Epic TV USA please
Deberían hacer un video para bad ass godbright el si era un gran escalador..
EPIC TV CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA 🤔 maybe
My personal opinion on the ethics: clipping all of the quickdraws and chains is required for a send. Not waiting for a clip is allowing you to bypass that little extra pump, and if you skip the chains at the top that signifies that you didn't have control. That's what I was taught anyway.
I was told difficulty should not lie in clipping the draws but in the actual climbing. What about the extra mental you need when last draw is 6m behind ? Does it not count as much as the extra pump ?
Yes Annie 🦾
It winds me up when you refer to woman's comp competitors as "the females", but to say Babzi Zangerl is "the female" with the most assents is just weird. Stop it.
Ok, what’s your preferred mode of differentiating between whether a climber is one sex or the other?
Men and women
@@chrisesson2204 Male and female. Men/Man and Women/Woman. All fulfill the same semantic function of binary gender identification. No issue. No problem.
Nope. Male and female refer to biological sex, not gender. Since were talking here about people's sporting and cultural achievements, I'd rather we didn't refer to them as if what mattered were their chromosomes and gonads
But Zangerl is female and has the most ascents,what's wierd about that?