Great time-lapse shots of insulating all the walls! I did a similar project in my basement, adding 3.5" ThermaSteel to both concrete and stud-framed walls. The ThermaSteel 3.5 inch version is R-28, and goes up to R-61 in their 7.5 inch version! That's a real meat locker in the making! But the difference insulation makes in my basement is phenomenal, starting with the acoustics - everything got much quieter. Then of course, the heating bills went way down: about 1/4 of what they used to be. You can drywall right over it, or apply other wall treatments. We did stucco in two rooms, drywall in two other rooms. It was a great project, and now we're going to do it my son's home as well. Love the use of good power tools in key spots! My Ryobi caulk gun, the very portable table saw, and that flooring system.
I really enjoyed your very informative video; especially the use of those "insofast panels"! I cannot wait until the next video that involves the upstairs framing and whatnot! Well done, Sir!
Glad I came across this video. Will definitely be using Insofast in my garage floor when we convert it into a living room. Was about to go the foam + two layers of advantech route, but this seems like a much better approach.
If you can, could you show where the electrical would go thru those panels? I assume the density of the foam changes to create the stud area? If you use that on the floor won't the foam be susceptible to crushing? Lastly, I assume when you are hanging the panels you are lining up the lines on the panels? Sounds like that foam is a huge time saver and the numbers for standard wood framing v Insofast costs look pretty good in favor of Insofast; I still worry about the fact that it is plastic. Hope you can get the toilet running soon! Very good post. Thanks
The studs are plastic which will hold drywall and even cabinets. The electrical raceways are holes about 3/4-1” in diameter that run beside the studs. Foam can also be removed where needed for electrical and filled with canned foam. I will update when drywall and electrical go in.
The EPS is pretty high-density. It does fine on floors, especially after 3/4" plywood is on top. Without that, yeah, you could drive the heal of your boot into the floor and make a permanent dent. I haven't used Insofast, but ThermaSteel uses steel studs embedded and thermally broken (so heat doesn't flow from outside to inside; it has EPS in-between inner and outer studs).
I'm about to frame out my cinder block workshed. Would have loved to see how you framed the windows (mating the wood to the cinder block). The window openings are on an angle at the bottom of the window and I'm having a difficult time finding instrux on how to frame that.
Was the slab more or less level? I asked because if I was concerned about low and high spots or sloping, I would have used leveling compound (that's what it's called here) to level the surface before laying the foam boards. Another question for you. Do you plan to put foam boards on the exterior walls also?
Why did you cut the insulation into smaller pieces? Why not use the 4' x 8' full sheet where possible and then cut down for above and below the windows? Fewer joins/seams/drafts.
all your videos are great, I cannot understand however, why you insulated basement putting IPS inside instead outside the wall? it is known that insulation works best, when thermal break material is on the colder side (outside the wall) and you have access to the outside wall all along the perimeter.... please explain!
What happens WHEN water goes onto/into this Insofasted floor assembly? 1. It will soak/leak through the floor covering and the plywood. 2. Some will rest between the Insofast and plywood and some will continue to leak down onto the concrete beneath the Insofast, since the Insofast panels are not sealed together. Then what? 3. Stay there until it hopefully dries or eventually migrate down through the concrete? What am I missing here? Also, when the home is warm in the winter, will condensation occur between the insofar and the concrete?
That's the nice thing about the system, if there is ever a leak, water will make its way down between the concrete and foam panels and the grooves in the panels will allow it to dry out. But the panels themselves won't hold moisture. Also the panels are a vapor retarder so they won't allow humidity to condense on the cold concrete.
What did you do to prevent moisture from building up? Is the wall and floor sealed from the outside? I live on a slope (a bit steeper) and my basement floods every winter. Currently has an inch of water. Last year it had 4 feet of water! I'm going to be installing a sump basin and pump, but I don't expect that to prevent some dampness down there.
This will prevent dampness but not leaks. Those would need to be addressed from the outside. Try making sure you have proper drainage and downspouts. Maybe even a French drain around the exterior.
We did something similar, and did a water-sealant on the concrete before applying the insulated wall. The insulated wall product is super-tight, and prevents the "sweating" that happens on the cold-surface walls because there's no longer a cold surface for your inside air to condensate against. The finished basement feels dryer because of it. But as rogueengineer says, leaks are different and need help around the outside of the foundation. Our builder said that 1" of slope away from the home every 12", running out about 2-4 feet, is enough to make a big difference in where rain goes. We added 3 truckloads of dirt to our outside wall, adding a gentle slope away from the foundation, and it worked! No more basement leaking.
@@HenryBass when you apply the sealant to the inside of the wall, are you worried that you are trapping moisture in the wall? Can't that damage the wall?
Most EPS wall systems employ flame-retardant properties, so you actually wind up better off for fire rating. "EPS" or Expanded Polystyrene looks like styrofoam but is higher density, closed cell.
Great time-lapse shots of insulating all the walls! I did a similar project in my basement, adding 3.5" ThermaSteel to both concrete and stud-framed walls. The ThermaSteel 3.5 inch version is R-28, and goes up to R-61 in their 7.5 inch version! That's a real meat locker in the making! But the difference insulation makes in my basement is phenomenal, starting with the acoustics - everything got much quieter. Then of course, the heating bills went way down: about 1/4 of what they used to be. You can drywall right over it, or apply other wall treatments. We did stucco in two rooms, drywall in two other rooms. It was a great project, and now we're going to do it my son's home as well. Love the use of good power tools in key spots! My Ryobi caulk gun, the very portable table saw, and that flooring system.
Thanks! Yea the bare concrete is basically a single pane glass 😂
I really enjoyed your very informative video; especially the use of those "insofast panels"!
I cannot wait until the next video that involves the upstairs framing and whatnot!
Well done, Sir!
Please. Bore me with the installation details. Please, it’s why I’m here. 😂
😂😂 I love it. They actually have a lot of good videos on their channel that goes into good detail about different installations.
Glad I came across this video. Will definitely be using Insofast in my garage floor when we convert it into a living room. Was about to go the foam + two layers of advantech route, but this seems like a much better approach.
If you can, could you show where the electrical would go thru those panels? I assume the density of the foam changes to create the stud area? If you use that on the floor won't the foam be susceptible to crushing? Lastly, I assume when you are hanging the panels you are lining up the lines on the panels? Sounds like that foam is a huge time saver and the numbers for standard wood framing v Insofast costs look pretty good in favor of Insofast; I still worry about the fact that it is plastic. Hope you can get the toilet running soon! Very good post. Thanks
The studs are plastic which will hold drywall and even cabinets. The electrical raceways are holes about 3/4-1” in diameter that run beside the studs. Foam can also be removed where needed for electrical and filled with canned foam. I will update when drywall and electrical go in.
The EPS is pretty high-density. It does fine on floors, especially after 3/4" plywood is on top. Without that, yeah, you could drive the heal of your boot into the floor and make a permanent dent. I haven't used Insofast, but ThermaSteel uses steel studs embedded and thermally broken (so heat doesn't flow from outside to inside; it has EPS in-between inner and outer studs).
Came out great!
Thank you!
I'm about to frame out my cinder block workshed. Would have loved to see how you framed the windows (mating the wood to the cinder block). The window openings are on an angle at the bottom of the window and I'm having a difficult time finding instrux on how to frame that.
What is the insulation plan for the wood framed wall? Looks awesome so far!
Was the slab more or less level? I asked because if I was concerned about low and high spots or sloping, I would have used leveling compound (that's what it's called here) to level the surface before laying the foam boards. Another question for you. Do you plan to put foam boards on the exterior walls also?
Why did you cut the insulation into smaller pieces? Why not use the 4' x 8' full sheet where possible and then cut down for above and below the windows? Fewer joins/seams/drafts.
all your videos are great, I cannot understand however, why you insulated basement putting IPS inside instead outside the wall? it is known that insulation works best, when thermal break material is on the colder side (outside the wall) and you have access to the outside wall all along the perimeter.... please explain!
Because the siding is going down the outside. We just actually added 1" on the outside but couldn't do much more.
I would've applied a spray on waterproof membrane to the block.
How do you plan to handle fire stop requirements ?
Now does drywall go over the foam insulation board?
What happens WHEN water goes onto/into this Insofasted floor assembly?
1. It will soak/leak through the floor covering and the plywood.
2. Some will rest between the Insofast and plywood and some will continue to leak down onto the concrete beneath the Insofast, since the Insofast panels are not sealed together.
Then what?
3. Stay there until it hopefully dries or eventually migrate down through the concrete?
What am I missing here?
Also, when the home is warm in the winter, will condensation occur between the insofar and the concrete?
That's the nice thing about the system, if there is ever a leak, water will make its way down between the concrete and foam panels and the grooves in the panels will allow it to dry out. But the panels themselves won't hold moisture. Also the panels are a vapor retarder so they won't allow humidity to condense on the cold concrete.
You need that vent for toilet to vent properly.
Correct but if I replace it and tie the sink into it I can use an AAV at the sink (which is code in my area.
If that toilet is a 12" offset you can gain a little by using a 10" offset.
Yes that is true. Still working through what to do there. Probably the right thing to do it replace the cast iron but I’m dragging my feet.
What did you do to prevent moisture from building up? Is the wall and floor sealed from the outside? I live on a slope (a bit steeper) and my basement floods every winter. Currently has an inch of water. Last year it had 4 feet of water! I'm going to be installing a sump basin and pump, but I don't expect that to prevent some dampness down there.
This will prevent dampness but not leaks. Those would need to be addressed from the outside. Try making sure you have proper drainage and downspouts. Maybe even a French drain around the exterior.
@@rogueengineer how did this prevent dampness? You have an air gap on the wall that has the dirt behind it. Won't the water still saturate the wall?
We did something similar, and did a water-sealant on the concrete before applying the insulated wall. The insulated wall product is super-tight, and prevents the "sweating" that happens on the cold-surface walls because there's no longer a cold surface for your inside air to condensate against. The finished basement feels dryer because of it. But as rogueengineer says, leaks are different and need help around the outside of the foundation. Our builder said that 1" of slope away from the home every 12", running out about 2-4 feet, is enough to make a big difference in where rain goes. We added 3 truckloads of dirt to our outside wall, adding a gentle slope away from the foundation, and it worked! No more basement leaking.
@@HenryBass when you apply the sealant to the inside of the wall, are you worried that you are trapping moisture in the wall? Can't that damage the wall?
Presume the panels aren't styrofoam, but similar without the flammability issues?
Correct
Most EPS wall systems employ flame-retardant properties, so you actually wind up better off for fire rating. "EPS" or Expanded Polystyrene looks like styrofoam but is higher density, closed cell.
Is radon a problem?what would you do if it is
If it were you would install a drain tile below the slab and pull it out with a fan.
Couldn’t watch video due to the obnoxious background music. Sorry.