This guy really knows what hes doing, I've did it three our four times, when rebluing them, this is a great for the first timers or when you have not done in a while.
Excellent video! Very clear instructions. My A5 is a 1931 model but very few differences. The shell carrier is one piece. The bolt spring tube is not welded to the receiver. Pretty easy until the trigger group is placed back in the receiver. Took me a few times to get it place correctly. Thanks.
Thank you for this series! I'm having difficulty reinstalling all three pins on the bolt. This particular A5 is the pre-war variety and was built in 1937. I followed your disassembly video without any issues for cleaning, and boy was she dirty. Unfortunately I managed to damage one of the pins so I ordered two replacements. I am looking for more clarity on what the right side pin should look like. Should one side have the indentations and the other side have the "gear" ridges? Because they sent me one of each type "left and right". Obviously I am trying not to damage either of them so I revisited this video and I can't make out if the extractor pin you have is the same as mine. I am able to push the pins down from the top with my thumb, to about 80% in, with the "ridges" also upward, beyond that they won't budge with a rubber mallet, and I'm not willing to use a steel hammer. The firing pin retaining pin seems to be really stubborn too. I'm careful to make sure it goes back in from the right side, "polished" side up. Please advise. Thank you in advance.
They've changed the bolt a lot throughout the history of this gun. The hole for the pin with ridges should have visible ridges inside of one ends. If it doesn't, you'll need to get pins without ridges.
Why is there a wide brass ring with the friction spring around it like you show and others that have one thin brass ring and NO friction spring? Also what's the purpose of having the magazine plug? My grandfather's has a plastic plug that seems to just reduce the number of shots you can load.
Great video man I do believe the friction rings should be Half-mooned together not opposite gaps they should be together or your gun may kick harder there are numerous ways you can do it but they definitely should be grooved together you can even put them at the base of the mag tube for really light bird loads
excellent work , thank you!!
This guy really knows what hes doing, I've did it three our four times, when rebluing them, this is a great for the first timers or when you have not done in a while.
thank you for your video. I thought I was screwed when I accidently took apart the trigger assembly. Thanks
Glad we could help!
Excellent video! Very clear instructions. My A5 is a 1931 model but very few differences. The shell carrier is one piece. The bolt spring tube is not welded to the receiver. Pretty easy until the trigger group is placed back in the receiver. Took me a few times to get it place correctly. Thanks.
Excellent video
the gaps of the two friction rings should be aligned
Thank you for this series! I'm having difficulty reinstalling all three pins on the bolt. This particular A5 is the pre-war variety and was built in 1937. I followed your disassembly video without any issues for cleaning, and boy was she dirty. Unfortunately I managed to damage one of the pins so I ordered two replacements. I am looking for more clarity on what the right side pin should look like. Should one side have the indentations and the other side have the "gear" ridges? Because they sent me one of each type "left and right". Obviously I am trying not to damage either of them so I revisited this video and I can't make out if the extractor pin you have is the same as mine. I am able to push the pins down from the top with my thumb, to about 80% in, with the "ridges" also upward, beyond that they won't budge with a rubber mallet, and I'm not willing to use a steel hammer. The firing pin retaining pin seems to be really stubborn too. I'm careful to make sure it goes back in from the right side, "polished" side up. Please advise. Thank you in advance.
They've changed the bolt a lot throughout the history of this gun. The hole for the pin with ridges should have visible ridges inside of one ends. If it doesn't, you'll need to get pins without ridges.
Why is there a wide brass ring with the friction spring around it like you show and others that have one thin brass ring and NO friction spring?
Also what's the purpose of having the magazine plug? My grandfather's has a plastic plug that seems to just reduce the number of shots you can load.
Cuanto mide el resorte k acciona el martillo repercutor esk al lío sele cerebro un poco la punta
Mi end a million years smart man 😮
Donde puedo conseguir las anilletas de friccion que salen en el minuto 19:55 son las dos las que nesecito para calibre 12
www.midwestgunworks.com/browning-auto-5/parts.html
Great video man I do believe the friction rings should be Half-mooned together not opposite gaps they should be together or your gun may kick harder there are numerous ways you can do it but they definitely should be grooved together you can even put them at the base of the mag tube for really light bird loads
Arms co. My butt, just another basement gun hacker.