I was watching some Grindhard videos recently with Edwin modding on of those little offroad ebikes and thought, "He might be able to build an electric mini monster chopper with regular car tires at this point." ...This is almost exactly what I envisioned it would be like! Talk about instant gratification.
A couple things>>> First off, making a fat tire: Totally kick@$$. Second, you making your own sprockets with a drill press and a 3d printer is just epic problem solving, someone needs to send you a cnc of some kind like a plasma table or a water jet. The last and final thing, chickens are friggin cool. Having your own sources of food puts you higher up on the scale of rad dudes and I hope the fresh eggs every morning are delicious. You rock
Nah. He did it much faster and more accurate than a laser or water jet. Except he didn't really need to file out the tooth profile. And mounting it on a flat free spinning platter would have made chamfering and doing the inner and outer diameter easy as pie with a disk grinder or sander. Not having a good router is no excuse. It costs 37 buck for 997 brushed DC motors from Temu. 12-36V DC. 20 amp rating. 2.2 inches diameter and 4 inches long, with quarter inch shafts. Capable of handling 5kW at 60V and around 20,000 rpm for up to sixty seconds. Those computer controlled synchronous AC motors and battery systems really are crap.
It was actually smacking down really hard I think I had the regenerative braking too high when I throttle off it slams the brake on. I will take regen off for wheelies in the future
Riding over the ceramic toilet might be the last thing you want to do, wheels will be gone and your leg is dangerously close to it too an this thing is razor sharp....
Yes, that guy Ethan is pretty short I think. I’m about 6ft and can just touch the ground, my sister could ride but she would be shorter than you. I had to hold it for her to take off but she could sort of side leg it
Hey Dk. I'm from the US Hot Phoeniz AZ to be exact') it's January and the weather feels more like California summer instead of winter. I've been subbed to your channel for a long time now and find You forever inspiring Shade us tree engineers. NICE STUFF MATE..
Take it from an engineer there’s a reason why those fat tire bikes have jack shafts and are not directly connected to the rear wheel. Going back to the Yamaha fat cat as an example. They were snapping the transmission shaft right off the motors. Plus using a jack shaft gives you the ability to customize your gear ratios for whatever you want to do.
The reason they use jack shafts is to space the chain out to get past the wide tire. This problem doesn’t exist because I can just move the whole motor of set to line up perfectly. Surrons use a jack shaft to get more gear reduction, the qs138 motor I have has a gear reduction box on it that is acting like a a jack shaft
@ Well you know best. But you will find out that big tire is going to do evil things to the gear reduction on that motor. I love the project dude. Don’t get me wrong. You make me want to build one.
You can probably just do a 79v battery and a 72450 controller swap and it should be good but I kind of want to see the 96v system in this and possibly a front drive motor to make it 2 wheel drive.... That would be mental and I love the idea of it doing a 2 wheeled burnout on dirt. 😮❤👏
That thing is so cool and best of all a fellow kiwi, i have a fat tyre honda atc200 i converted from a trike and i ride it around places in Hamilton and taken it up port Waikato on the dunes. Keep up the awesome videos bud.
@@DktheWelder yeah I had a Honda atc200 chain drive with a rusty rear frame. Chopped out the rusted section then thought, why not turn it into a fatty two wheeler. I got a rear swing arm from a Suzuki tf125 and cut and widened it to fit the trike tyre/rim and so that gave it the rear shocks (sounds better than it works 😄) I have assembled the required parts to do an Electric front wheel drive using a spragg bearing for one direction engaging and a starter motor to drive a chain....I may look at a different option after seeing your set up. Thanks for the reply.
@@alanwalker7342 that sounds really awesome! I have been thinking a lot about 2 wd and being able to disengage it for the most of the time would be great
The eventual words of every EV builder.... Just needs a bigger BMS and battery. Lol! Ok, electrical guy here. Just as important as increasing the capacity of the BMS is to ensure low resistance in the current carrying path from the battery, through the BMS, and to the motor. Over size your cables. Crimped connections as opposed to mechanical lugs. Copper And never aluminum. Over size the heat sinks. Torque all connections. Increase air flow to the motor and BMS!! These are air cooled parts that could easily get another 25% capacity with a bit of thought to cooling. Think of the entire current carrying path as a big lumbering giant with much power, but MUST be cooled to keep working. Most don't recognize that electrical machines are primarily limited by heat buildup! Also, great work! Looks like a ton of fun.
The battery is 0.7v out of balance that is why it is cutting out. So I am trying to manually balance a string at the moment. Hopefully back riding tomorrow
Could be your Motor Controller Over heating causing the cutouts. Had similar issues on a build recently. I ended up water cooling the Motor controller and its power all day long now! Happy days. I'm only pushing 100A at 72V though.
It could be BMS doing low voltage cut offs. My bike would cut off under hard acceleration due to voltage sag triggering low voltage BMS cutoff. If you can adjust the BMS settings and lower the low voltage limit for both pack voltage and cell voltage that could prevent the cut offs. If on the other hand the controller is delivering higher amps than the BMS is rated for, then you would need to lower the controller max amps to hopefully stop the cut outs.
@@DktheWelder - When building Electric Skateboards we usually only connect the BMS to the battery and the charge port, that way the ESC's can draw power directly from the battery - We use VESC ESC's which let us limit the power draw on the VESC's rather than the BMS. Using my own electric mountainboard as an example - it runs 2 x 12 Amp hour 6S LIPO batteries which running in parallel gives me 12S or around 50 volts fully charged - and the lipo's have a c rating (max constant discharge rate) of 12 (i.e. the battery at max draw can empty itself in 1/12 of an hour or 5 minutes). So 12 x 12 amps x 50 volts = 7,200 watts max constant draw from the batteries (for 5 minutes) - So I run 2 x 3,500 watt motors giving me 7,000 watts which is far, far more than needed and I still have 200 watts as spare head room. Running this through dual VESC's limited to 70 amps, for each motor leaving 4 amps head room. The battery has a burst rate of 24 so could output 14,400 watts for bursts of 15 seconds or less which gives me even more safety margin for overloading anything. Best tactic with electric vehicles seems to be over power everything and then limit everything back in software to keep everything safe.
The thing about electric batteries is emptying them or charging them full quickly is not good for them - and charging them slowly is a lot easier than emptying them slowly - who can resist more power and going quicker?
I am willing to bet that the battery is the cause of the loss of power when you give it full throttle, if the battery does not have good quality cells and enough of them then when you go full throttle it draws a lot of power causing the battery voltage to droop which even though the remaining voltage would still be enough to run the bike it can trigger a safety feature in the controller when it detects a sudden large voltage change ( its a feature designed to protect batteries ) usually it can be disabled, increasing the number of cells so increasing the capacity or using good quality cells helps prevent this.
I can't remember who made it but there was a fat tire dirtbike in the late 70s or early 80s that was pretty popular and snowy areas of the US that looks a lot like this, it's not really a new idea
There are a few bikes like this, tw200, Honda fatcat, rokon, they mostly use quad tires, I just used 35s I don’t think I could go much bigger without it becoming hard to ride
What an awesome looking machine what you've done there could you do that to a motocross bike and take out the motor and make it into a electric motocross bike
Do some livestream chats and maybe crowdfund for upgrades, and maybe even reach out to some relevant companies to promote their stuff here, the worst they can say is no.
I have done that with a 520 sprocket I made it 60t there is a video of it on my channel a year ago maybe. This 428 sprocket holes 8.5mm the router bit is too big
There is no unsprung weight at the rear there is no spring haha. I the wheel tires combine is around 30-40kg but next time I can use lighter rims and cut more off the tires
It would trip the bms and then I would have to plug in the charger to reset it. So that’s why I kept the speed though. Plus riding fast with those big tires would get a bit dangerous I think. I will find out soon
@@Aviationrcfpv I am trying to balance the battery at the moment it should stop it cutting. I can change settings in all 3 speed modes, this video was mostly done at 25% power
Where did that battery come from? If it’s a real battery, it has a real BMS like ANT or JK that is programmable via a Bluetooth app. The ANT by default does NOT come programmed correctly, so if you have an ANT you need to program it. Your next battery, if it uses high quality cells and construction methods, make sure it gets an ANT 380a/950a BMS for the Fardriver 961800, assuming you have a 27s20p P45b pack or similar. The ANT BMS by default is set to allow continuous rating forever, but if you exceed it by 1 amp, in 5 seconds it will trip the BMS. It takes no prisoners.Lol. This 5 second delay is not correct for a programed BMS, but it is safe and thats how it will arrive. So to program the ANT, you need to set the current limit high and then set the fardriver to do the real current and time limits (using the BOOST feature), and THEN program the ANT to allow the Fardriver to do its thing, but if it gets out of hand, the ANT will pull the plug. Many people have a real BMS but never ever downloaded the app, so see if your battery has one. Then if you need help setting it correctly, I can help you.
It is a 300amp Daly bms and I have played around with settings a bit with help from a really smart American guy, one of the strings is too low for the bms to auto balance so I am manually charging the low string at the moment. Hopefully that will fix it
@ , thats a bad sign is one cell group dropped way below the others, assuming it was initially top balanced when first built. I use my hobby charger to manually balance a battery just to get it in range, then i open the ANT app and hit Start Autobalance and let it balance to 0.000v differential. Im not familiar with the settings a Daly allows, but for ANT I disable automatic balancing and just monitor the behavior, then after a period of time i top balance again to 0.000v and begin a new monitoring period. I just did a video where i reconnected my ANT bms to a 13s pack that I balanced to 0.000v 3 months ago. In 3 months all cell grouos were perfectly balanced except #13, which was 0.004v low. I was surprised they weren’t all off with 0.020v differential. Your pack needs a health check, which any smart BMS can do. Simply charge it to 4.15v/cell and balance it to 0.000v (or as tight at a daly can), then disable all balancing so it doesn’t interfere with the health check. Next screen record the app while doing full throttle pulls, watching for big spikes in differential voltage. If you see 1 cell group sagging noticeably more than the others, make a mental note of that. Then continue discharging the pack until its 3.2v or so at the lowest brick and let the battery rest a few minutes, then check differential voltage again. If one cell group is significantly below the others, and if it was also the one sagging more during acceleration, then you have some cells that became disconnected. This happened to one cell in my pack, a CID popped. Replaced that cell and its been ok. The concerning part for your pack is if you fully charged the pack. And one cell group is showing significantly lower, it’s possible you have a self-discharging cell. I had some of these when I burned a hole in the bottom spot welding. As the electrolyte leaked out, the cell discharge rate got higher until it needed daily balancing. Eventually i tore the battery apart (because i did burned holes in about 15 cells lol), and I will rebuild the pack with the good cells. As far as settings, ANT has current settings like this: Continuous amps (no time limit) > continuous amps but max amps but
Cool bike, I'd like to see you film some trail rides with it. There must be some good rides around there. Are you allowed to take it through the gorge trails.
Fantastic mate! Your metal working skills motivate me to improve mine, thank you. Once you have this down without any flaws it is a must that you patent your design, you will make millons! I, for one want one so bad.
I can't believe you hand made a sprocket.
The 3d printer helped a lot 👍
I was watching some Grindhard videos recently with Edwin modding on of those little offroad ebikes and thought, "He might be able to build an electric mini monster chopper with regular car tires at this point." ...This is almost exactly what I envisioned it would be like! Talk about instant gratification.
Haha, yes the grind hard bike worked surprisingly well and this one with smaller wheels and short wheelbase works great
A couple things>>> First off, making a fat tire: Totally kick@$$. Second, you making your own sprockets with a drill press and a 3d printer is just epic problem solving, someone needs to send you a cnc of some kind like a plasma table or a water jet. The last and final thing, chickens are friggin cool. Having your own sources of food puts you higher up on the scale of rad dudes and I hope the fresh eggs every morning are delicious. You rock
Fresh eggs and riding around on this bike is what life is about
You're killing the upload schedule lately much appreciate it🎉
Had a bit more free time 👍
this guy needs a waterjet asap
Yes! Or a laser cutter that can up to 5mm
@@DktheWelder props for keeping the old ways alive tho as well
Or perhaps a CNC plasma cutter.
water jet? Youngster's Jets.
Nah. He did it much faster and more accurate than a laser or water jet. Except he didn't really need to file out the tooth profile. And mounting it on a flat free spinning platter would have made chamfering and doing the inner and outer diameter easy as pie with a disk grinder or sander.
Not having a good router is no excuse. It costs 37 buck for 997 brushed DC motors from Temu. 12-36V DC. 20 amp rating.
2.2 inches diameter and 4 inches long, with quarter inch shafts.
Capable of handling 5kW at 60V and around 20,000 rpm for up to sixty seconds.
Those computer controlled synchronous AC motors and battery systems really are crap.
De-walt multitool would be ideal for cutting awkward places , love the build
This thing would work in so many terrains. Up North would love this bike.
Love that smack when the front end comes down. Would be great in winter for packing fatbike trails.
It was actually smacking down really hard I think I had the regenerative braking too high when I throttle off it slams the brake on. I will take regen off for wheelies in the future
Riding over the ceramic toilet might be the last thing you want to do, wheels will be gone and your leg is dangerously close to it too an this thing is razor sharp....
I actually thought it was going to break would have cool, but it just moved out of the way👍
🤣Omgggggggg ! 🤣
Grandpa tried riding it while wearing his Jerusalem Cruisers ! 🤣🤣LMFBO 😍 LOVE IT !
Epic Thumbs Up ! 👍👍 Thanks fer sharing ! 👌
😇❤
There was a lot more stuff off camera too haha
I want one.. Good job mate.
You will want it more once it is finished
Really nice work I liked 💪👍
This build keeps getting better! 😎
This is awesome.
hand making a sprocket is crazy. good job
Easily got my thumbs up! Definitely cool project and a down-to-earth video. Thanks for sharing
Thanks
Fantastic video mate. You have great problem solving abilities.
Thanks! It was a fun video to make
I too saw GrindHard's bike and said "That's _way_ too big!" As a 5'8" (172cm) bloke, this is much more my style.
Yes, that guy Ethan is pretty short I think. I’m about 6ft and can just touch the ground, my sister could ride but she would be shorter than you. I had to hold it for her to take off but she could sort of side leg it
Gotta respect that sprocket build, what a task that must have been. I would never have attempted that and you made it look easy. Awesome stuff
It didn’t take that long I am glad I did it otherwise It would have held up progress too much 👍
ahhh the go pro drill press. the handiest toll to take with you on your handyman adventures
GoPro makes the best drill presses haha
Happy new year to you and your family sir!!! Wicked build as always mate 👌🏻👍🏻✌🏻
Happy new year!
Great build! Can't wait until they are in production 🙌 😍
Good luck from Louisville kentucky usa 🇺🇸 💪
This bike is really cool. Well done.
Very nice. Range?
Sprocket on the other side equals less unnecessary torque loads on the wheel hub. Seems to work great this way though! Wild!
That looks like an insane amount of fun!
Hey Dk. I'm from the US Hot Phoeniz AZ to be exact') it's January and the weather feels more like California summer instead of winter. I've been subbed to your channel for a long time now and find You forever inspiring Shade us tree engineers. NICE STUFF MATE..
Thanks. Sounds like you are having a great winter
Very cool. Nice work, and beautiful locations, too.
There are a lot more cool locations I can take it once I get it working a bit better!
This is so so awesome. Bravo!
I would buy this. Great work.
Thanks, it will get better as I make improvements
@@DktheWelder Any chance you will sell these? I have a good contact in China where I used to import ebikes from.
AWESOME WORK
Thanks. I also can’t wait to try it on water!
Unreal your killing it dude💪
I love this guy!
Love your vid bro your should do more yacht vids there so much you can do to upgrade them
I have ideas for the yacht but the weather has been really windy and haven’t been out this summer
Waihi will never be the same. Had planned to pass thru again in Feb. Keep up the crazy contraptions.
Thanks !
Love it, top job
now that's a cool bike.
That’s mint dude
Epic work. Loving the heavy metal riff background theme🤘🏻 Happy New Year fella cheers for all the amazing videos
Thanks happy new year
put paddle wheels on it and take it to the sand dunes
It would work well on the dunes, don’t have any nearby. Also it would go through the battery pretty quickly in the sand
An Aussie tinkerer ,cool . I used to watch aussie50 until his passing
For limited tools, your very talented bro
Cboys TV would test this great should reach out and ship it over and do a video with them
I sent them a message but no reply. Those guys would love this thing
Happy new dude 🎉🎉🎉
Happy new year
Happy new year
hand made sprocket nice
now it sounds good
It is actually really quiet and nice, I have had 30 plus gas bikes and it is nice to have some quiet to ride
Take it from an engineer there’s a reason why those fat tire bikes have jack shafts and are not directly connected to the rear wheel. Going back to the Yamaha fat cat as an example. They were snapping the transmission shaft right off the motors. Plus using a jack shaft gives you the ability to customize your gear ratios for whatever you want to do.
The reason they use jack shafts is to space the chain out to get past the wide tire. This problem doesn’t exist because I can just move the whole motor of set to line up perfectly. Surrons use a jack shaft to get more gear reduction, the qs138 motor I have has a gear reduction box on it that is acting like a a jack shaft
@ Well you know best. But you will find out that big tire is going to do evil things to the gear reduction on that motor. I love the project dude. Don’t get me wrong. You make me want to build one.
You can probably just do a 79v battery and a 72450 controller swap and it should be good but I kind of want to see the 96v system in this and possibly a front drive motor to make it 2 wheel drive.... That would be mental and I love the idea of it doing a 2 wheeled burnout on dirt. 😮❤👏
The battery charges to 84v I don’t know if I can afford the 96 v 500amp controller yet. As for 2 wheel drive I have an idea I am working on
Shit color me impressed, that sprocket is dope
The sprocket worked well that motor has heaps of torque I thought it would tear it up 👍
That thing is so cool and best of all a fellow kiwi, i have a fat tyre honda atc200 i converted from a trike and i ride it around places in Hamilton and taken it up port Waikato on the dunes. Keep up the awesome videos bud.
Yes port Waikato would be awesome! You made a 3 wheeler into a 2 wheeler?
@@DktheWelder yeah I had a Honda atc200 chain drive with a rusty rear frame. Chopped out the rusted section then thought, why not turn it into a fatty two wheeler. I got a rear swing arm from a Suzuki tf125 and cut and widened it to fit the trike tyre/rim and so that gave it the rear shocks (sounds better than it works 😄) I have assembled the required parts to do an Electric front wheel drive using a spragg bearing for one direction engaging and a starter motor to drive a chain....I may look at a different option after seeing your set up. Thanks for the reply.
@@alanwalker7342 that sounds really awesome! I have been thinking a lot about 2 wd and being able to disengage it for the most of the time would be great
I run into the same problems when I have too tall gearing in my RC cars I usually have to gear down a couple teeth or run a lower KV motor.
Before I made that sprocket it was too low geared, I think the gearing is good just need a bms that can keep up
Gotta love 3D printing. Great sprocket idea. I wonder if DADO blades could be modified to cut a perfect tooth profile. :D
Yes maybe!
Brilliant stuff brother.
Beach Time!!!!!
The eventual words of every EV builder.... Just needs a bigger BMS and battery. Lol! Ok, electrical guy here. Just as important as increasing the capacity of the BMS is to ensure low resistance in the current carrying path from the battery, through the BMS, and to the motor. Over size your cables. Crimped connections as opposed to mechanical lugs. Copper And never aluminum. Over size the heat sinks. Torque all connections. Increase air flow to the motor and BMS!! These are air cooled parts that could easily get another 25% capacity with a bit of thought to cooling. Think of the entire current carrying path as a big lumbering giant with much power, but MUST be cooled to keep working. Most don't recognize that electrical machines are primarily limited by heat buildup! Also, great work! Looks like a ton of fun.
The battery is 0.7v out of balance that is why it is cutting out. So I am trying to manually balance a string at the moment. Hopefully back riding tomorrow
Could be your Motor Controller Over heating causing the cutouts. Had similar issues on a build recently. I ended up water cooling the Motor controller and its power all day long now! Happy days. I'm only pushing 100A at 72V though.
It is an imbalance problem that is causing it I have been balancing the pack hopefully it stops doing it now
That would do it for sure. The bike is so sick man!
It could be BMS doing low voltage cut offs. My bike would cut off under hard acceleration due to voltage sag triggering low voltage BMS cutoff. If you can adjust the BMS settings and lower the low voltage limit for both pack voltage and cell voltage that could prevent the cut offs. If on the other hand the controller is delivering higher amps than the BMS is rated for, then you would need to lower the controller max amps to hopefully stop the cut outs.
I could do that and have played around with it but a my controller can do 530 amp 96v so I might as well go for that👍
@@DktheWelder oh, that's a very powerful controller, definitely worth upgrading the battery and BMS. It will have incredible power!
@@toriwatson9655 it will be scary to ride I think
Haha it’s a beast mate happy new year
You can bypass the BMS for battery draw and only use the BMS for charging and battery status reporting - That's a common tactic for ESK8 builders.
O nice! How do I do that? And will it know when to stop discharging?
Also what is esk8?
@@DktheWelder in the BMS settings or just wire battery to ESC and only put the BMS between the battery and the charging port
@@DktheWelder - When building Electric Skateboards we usually only connect the BMS to the battery and the charge port, that way the ESC's can draw power directly from the battery - We use VESC ESC's which let us limit the power draw on the VESC's rather than the BMS. Using my own electric mountainboard as an example - it runs 2 x 12 Amp hour 6S LIPO batteries which running in parallel gives me 12S or around 50 volts fully charged - and the lipo's have a c rating (max constant discharge rate) of 12 (i.e. the battery at max draw can empty itself in 1/12 of an hour or 5 minutes). So 12 x 12 amps x 50 volts = 7,200 watts max constant draw from the batteries (for 5 minutes) - So I run 2 x 3,500 watt motors giving me 7,000 watts which is far, far more than needed and I still have 200 watts as spare head room. Running this through dual VESC's limited to 70 amps, for each motor leaving 4 amps head room. The battery has a burst rate of 24 so could output 14,400 watts for bursts of 15 seconds or less which gives me even more safety margin for overloading anything. Best tactic with electric vehicles seems to be over power everything and then limit everything back in software to keep everything safe.
The thing about electric batteries is emptying them or charging them full quickly is not good for them - and charging them slowly is a lot easier than emptying them slowly - who can resist more power and going quicker?
This think looks way too fun
This thing I so freakin cool
I am willing to bet that the battery is the cause of the loss of power when you give it full throttle, if the battery does not have good quality cells and enough of them then when you go full throttle it draws a lot of power causing the battery voltage to droop which even though the remaining voltage would still be enough to run the bike it can trigger a safety feature in the controller when it detects a sudden large voltage change ( its a feature designed to protect batteries ) usually it can be disabled, increasing the number of cells so increasing the capacity or using good quality cells helps prevent this.
I can't remember who made it but there was a fat tire dirtbike in the late 70s or early 80s that was pretty popular and snowy areas of the US that looks a lot like this, it's not really a new idea
There are a few bikes like this, tw200, Honda fatcat, rokon, they mostly use quad tires, I just used 35s I don’t think I could go much bigger without it becoming hard to ride
Time to head to the dunes! This is a desert blaster that could run forever on solar/wind...
The sand would suck the power a bit but it should sit on top of the sand pretty well
looks soo easy to ride.
It is easy a my brother in law had never ridden a motorbike before and was able to ride it
Sick I want one
Inspector chicken approved! 😂
That's awesome. How much do you think it weighs?
160kg or 350 pounds. I will make the next one a bit lighter
What an awesome looking machine what you've done there could you do that to a motocross bike and take out the motor and make it into a electric motocross bike
Yes you can, a lot of people put these motors into dirt bikes they work well
Do some livestream chats and maybe crowdfund for upgrades, and maybe even reach out to some relevant companies to promote their stuff here, the worst they can say is no.
Thanks, I have a patron in description. But need to get some sort of crowd funding setup
cool content
Yes, i want one of these, what kind of money does it take to back one of these up?
It would be pretty expensive to make it the way I want, maybe $10-$15k usd. As I would want to use the best parts I can
badass bike!
I’d like to see it with a second motor on the front wheel.
I have been working on that.
Nice!!😵💫😎
cool! what engine do you use?
Qs138 like I explained in the video
Curious how much does a bike like that cost?
Would be cool if you put a motor on the front fork to so it became two wheel drive.
I like your thinking!
That's a ripper mate! Good job on the fabrication and body panels. Cyber fatty!
what tire pressures are you running?
I don’t have a gauge to will read low enough. I have been experimenting with it a bit I would guess between 3-10psi
Why didn't you use a copying bit to do the teeth as well? Details too small?
I have done that with a 520 sprocket I made it 60t there is a video of it on my channel a year ago maybe. This 428 sprocket holes 8.5mm the router bit is too big
Tons of unsprung weight with the truck tires.
There is no unsprung weight at the rear there is no spring haha. I the wheel tires combine is around 30-40kg but next time I can use lighter rims and cut more off the tires
Soooooo i want one 😳
Set all speed in ratios in advanced settings to 100%
It would trip the bms and then I would have to plug in the charger to reset it. So that’s why I kept the speed though. Plus riding fast with those big tires would get a bit dangerous I think. I will find out soon
@DktheWelder wonder if you could adjust them for maximum tourqe down low and taper it where it seems to be cutting
@@Aviationrcfpv I am trying to balance the battery at the moment it should stop it cutting. I can change settings in all 3 speed modes, this video was mostly done at 25% power
Title is 100% Accurate. I wonder how it does in sand.
Hopefully I get to try soon
👌👌👌
❤❤❤❤
Yo! From far north California. White abbo stats. Can you build an articulating cherry picker... With left-over parts.
Probably with enough time and parts haha
Where did that battery come from? If it’s a real battery, it has a real BMS like ANT or JK that is programmable via a Bluetooth app. The ANT by default does NOT come programmed correctly, so if you have an ANT you need to program it.
Your next battery, if it uses high quality cells and construction methods, make sure it gets an ANT 380a/950a BMS for the Fardriver 961800, assuming you have a 27s20p P45b pack or similar.
The ANT BMS by default is set to allow continuous rating forever, but if you exceed it by 1 amp, in 5 seconds it will trip the BMS. It takes no prisoners.Lol. This 5 second delay is not correct for a programed BMS, but it is safe and thats how it will arrive.
So to program the ANT, you need to set the current limit high and then set the fardriver to do the real current and time limits (using the BOOST feature), and THEN program the ANT to allow the Fardriver to do its thing, but if it gets out of hand, the ANT will pull the plug.
Many people have a real BMS but never ever downloaded the app, so see if your battery has one. Then if you need help setting it correctly, I can help you.
It is a 300amp Daly bms and I have played around with settings a bit with help from a really smart American guy, one of the strings is too low for the bms to auto balance so I am manually charging the low string at the moment. Hopefully that will fix it
@ , thats a bad sign is one cell group dropped way below the others, assuming it was initially top balanced when first built. I use my hobby charger to manually balance a battery just to get it in range, then i open the ANT app and hit Start Autobalance and let it balance to 0.000v differential.
Im not familiar with the settings a Daly allows, but for ANT I disable automatic balancing and just monitor the behavior, then after a period of time i top balance again to 0.000v and begin a new monitoring period.
I just did a video where i reconnected my ANT bms to a 13s pack that I balanced to 0.000v 3 months ago. In 3 months all cell grouos were perfectly balanced except #13, which was 0.004v low. I was surprised they weren’t all off with 0.020v differential.
Your pack needs a health check, which any smart BMS can do. Simply charge it to 4.15v/cell and balance it to 0.000v (or as tight at a daly can), then disable all balancing so it doesn’t interfere with the health check. Next screen record the app while doing full throttle pulls, watching for big spikes in differential voltage. If you see 1 cell group sagging noticeably more than the others, make a mental note of that.
Then continue discharging the pack until its 3.2v or so at the lowest brick and let the battery rest a few minutes, then check differential voltage again. If one cell group is significantly below the others, and if it was also the one sagging more during acceleration, then you have some cells that became disconnected. This happened to one cell in my pack, a CID popped. Replaced that cell and its been ok.
The concerning part for your pack is if you fully charged the pack. And one cell group is showing significantly lower, it’s possible you have a self-discharging cell. I had some of these when I burned a hole in the bottom spot welding. As the electrolyte leaked out, the cell discharge rate got higher until it needed daily balancing. Eventually i tore the battery apart (because i did burned holes in about 15 cells lol), and I will rebuild the pack with the good cells.
As far as settings, ANT has current settings like this:
Continuous amps (no time limit)
> continuous amps but max amps but
Cool bike, I'd like to see you film some trail rides with it. There must be some good rides around there. Are you allowed to take it through the gorge trails.
I will take it on some trails once I get the battery sorted. There are some cool tracks nearby
Fantastic mate! Your metal working skills motivate me to improve mine, thank you. Once you have this down without any flaws it is a must that you patent your design, you will make millons! I, for one want one so bad.
Thanks, it will be a cool thing to sell to people it is actually pretty easy to ride
needs a front fender.
I have been thinking about building one it will be needed in the mud
How much for one?
Send an email if you are serious, I’m not set up to mass produce so the first models will be expensive. Dkthewelder@gmail.com
Perfect timed vid for people to sub and like. good job .from fellow Nz R
Nz is great this time of year! Thanks 👍
I want one
I do laser cutting/engraving and vinyl graphics I think you could produce these who doesn't want one?
43 mph👍add a cheap 5-speed gearbox for 90mph and your in
🎉🎉🎉
If I was to get you to build me the the larger of the two styles what kind of money in US Dollars are we talking about and what kind of time frame
Send me an email, dkthewelder@gmail.com
You need bigger battery
Yes 96v and 500amp bms I think another 50 cells
diy drill gear is something new, it so stupid i should try it.
Lazer cutting is the way to go but if you don’t have time. There are a lot of things that could be made using this method
why not nget a chain that fits
The chain does fit?