Nicely designed unit looks very well made i have a mid mount sony and it appears to have the bare minimum components possible for it to be a working unit.
Yamaha used to design their own drawer mechanism and, compared to other manufacturers in the '90s, they are harder to work on, not so easy to realign correctly and can get out of alignment on their own (service manuals report a "procedure" to re-align the drawer mechanism). Equivalent Sony, Philips or Technics are much simpler. Also Yamaha loved to add metal to the chassis, they used thicker metal sheet, and tried to avoid plastic whenever possible. It might seems a good choice, but metal front plate are more prone to scratches compared to plastic. And last but not least, their amber VFD which is nothing more than a a standard green VFD with only the amber component filtered. To get a decent brightness, the VFD is driven to maximum intensity thus increasing wear out and shortening its life... That been said, my current CD player is a small Yamaha CDX-100. and I love it.
@@TurntableGuy The display in my Yamaha has three display brightness levels, but beside maximum brightness, the other two levels are barely visible in a dark room. I have another Sony of similar vintage and I have to dim its display as maximum brightness is too bright.
Just so everyone knows I tried a common Yamaha belt VQ776900 that is available from Yamaha for like $3 and worked perfectly. It was just a bit smaller like the author mentioned. On the same cdx-1030. Originally ordered the belt as a spare for my cdc-635. So probably most 80’s Yamahas probably use the same one
Didn't get the chance to try out any Yamaha A/V hardware but I did recall a center-load CDX-1200 back in the early 90s which was considered (relatively) high-end. Really missed those good era I guess. Not sure how bad Yamaha hardware has gone downhill these days?
It is also necessary to replace the rubber belt and check the condition of the motor.I don't know how many times it has been used, but the motor brush may run out.In this case, I have taken and replaced the motor of another device.👍
Sounds like someone is phishing for extra charges. The motor will work, untill it doesn't. I have never seen a drawer motor fail considering it only runs for be 2 seconds at a time.
i have the cdx 1050 exept for the cd tray sometimes sticking, there has never been any issue with it, and it is from the early 90's still a nice and quiet player, there is ofcorse the option for buying a new 200 gr shitty player, but i will stick to my old 10,5 kg one.
The line output leads/case are grounded through the amplifier inputs, so no tingle. Those two blue caps connected to the incoming mains voltage would worry me. I bet they are earthed to the case, not clever :-(
@15:00 embalming parts.. I can understand if you were demonstrating a prototype with some revolutionary or unique function or circuit.. but not a production model. very paranoid of Yamaha.
This is so funny - I was going to do this exact repair on this exact player this week. Been putting it off for ages. Great player btw.
Nicely designed unit looks very well made i have a mid mount sony and it appears to have the bare minimum components possible for it to be a working unit.
Yamaha used to design their own drawer mechanism and, compared to other manufacturers in the '90s, they are harder to work on, not so easy to realign correctly and can get out of alignment on their own (service manuals report a "procedure" to re-align the drawer mechanism). Equivalent Sony, Philips or Technics are much simpler. Also Yamaha loved to add metal to the chassis, they used thicker metal sheet, and tried to avoid plastic whenever possible. It might seems a good choice, but metal front plate are more prone to scratches compared to plastic. And last but not least, their amber VFD which is nothing more than a a standard green VFD with only the amber component filtered. To get a decent brightness, the VFD is driven to maximum intensity thus increasing wear out and shortening its life... That been said, my current CD player is a small Yamaha CDX-100. and I love it.
I've never had an issue with the VFDs on Yamahas from this era. They are still as bright as the day I bought them.
@@TurntableGuy The display in my Yamaha has three display brightness levels, but beside maximum brightness, the other two levels are barely visible in a dark room. I have another Sony of similar vintage and I have to dim its display as maximum brightness is too bright.
This is an LCD display with 2 incandescent lamps lighting it from. The rear.
the cream colored board inside made me question..why are most Green ? Contrast?
Just so everyone knows I tried a common Yamaha belt VQ776900 that is available from Yamaha for like $3 and worked perfectly. It was just a bit smaller like the author mentioned. On the same cdx-1030. Originally ordered the belt as a spare for my cdc-635. So probably most 80’s Yamahas probably use the same one
mistitled?
"Coffee mug holder"
thanks
Didn't get the chance to try out any Yamaha A/V hardware but I did recall a center-load CDX-1200 back in the early 90s which was considered (relatively) high-end. Really missed those good era I guess. Not sure how bad Yamaha hardware has gone downhill these days?
It is also necessary to replace the rubber belt and check the condition of the motor.I don't know how many times it has been used, but the motor brush may run out.In this case, I have taken and replaced the motor of another device.👍
Sounds like someone is phishing for extra charges. The motor will work, untill it doesn't. I have never seen a drawer motor fail considering it only runs for be 2 seconds at a time.
Motorvis direct drive
@@PedjoGT all CD spindle is direct drive. This one has bsl motor.
@@12voltvids yeah why not replace all the circuit components while you're in there 😂
@@SPINNINGMYWHEELS777 well if i was being paid 600 I would change all the craps but I'm not so a belt has to do.
i have the cdx 1050 exept for the cd tray sometimes sticking, there has never been any issue with it, and it is from the early 90's still a nice and quiet player, there is ofcorse the option for buying a new 200 gr shitty player, but i will stick to my old 10,5 kg one.
The line output leads/case are grounded through the amplifier inputs, so no tingle.
Those two blue caps connected to the incoming mains voltage would worry me.
I bet they are earthed to the case, not clever :-(
It's a floating ground... It's really common.
The blue caps I would say are across mains, and another across the switch for arc protection.
@15:00 embalming parts.. I can understand if you were demonstrating a prototype with some revolutionary or unique function or circuit.. but not a production model. very paranoid of Yamaha.
That's so they can charge an arm, leg and first born for it. V