Your videos were an inspiration for me to find Sony CD player CDP-XE510 from the 1990s on a local classifieds website for ~20 US dollars about a year ago. Almost perfect cosmetic state, reads scratched discs without skipping, sounds good to my ears. The only issue was a cracked solder joint of a ground pin on output RCA terminals which I fixed easily. Now I have a growing collection of CDs, some of them cost more than the player I play them on.
My 1987 DENON DCD-900 CD player was skipping as well. Thank goodness that just a few drops of electric shaver oil in the right place fixed the problem. That was about 5 years ago, and it is still working perfectly. That very same type of oil has fixed several of my devices over the years.
I have watched A LOT of videos over the years concerning CD players skipping. every one has told me to clean the lense or turn a screw a tiny amount to stop the skipping. I tried those remedies and they never worked. This is the first video I have ever seen talking about a motor going bad. It finally clears up the confusion. One thing I have found to be true - old cd players skip and I wont buy old used ones any more. but DVD players seem NEVER to skip, i use DVD players that are 20 years old and they never skip. why are DVD players so much more robust than CD players ? and why does the 25 year old CD player in my car never skip when my 10 year old home cd player does ? i dont get it.
Really interesting, thanks. Bad bearings - what a pain - probably drawing extra current as well (the motor), just to keep the revs up. No expert here - but getting into 12v electronics as a hobby. Its excellent fun.
Would it not be possible to take the motor out and apply oil to the bearings? I found that in some computer cooling fans the bearings (due to hot air being pulled through them) tended to dry out and become worn. The best oil I found to use was a very small quantity of fully synthetic engine oil; this oil would revive most noisy fans because its viscosity would act to fill the worn bearing gap thus preventing resonance and was impervious to heat so would last indefinitely. The above method worked on even the very small fans with low torque, so, I would imagine, be certainly OK with a motor capable of spinning a CD.
The underlying issue is bearings thenself are worn out , this wear creates slop in the motor shaft itself (it will also lower the disk spindle height throwng off the focus) taking one of those motors apart without dystroying them is also no small task , when a motor with worn out bearings spins each pole of the rotor passes through a magnetic field. every time this happens it makes the motor shaft vibrate like a tuning fork with its frequency dependent on the motors RPM,, this vibration sets up a resonace in the disk on spindle like a speaker cone , this is "seen" by the tracking servo circuts as noise and they try and correct this issue once the resonance gets bad enougth they are Overwhelmed .
@@brianperkins6121 I've often injected a minute drop of machine oil into these motors via a tiny hole in the casing. Albeit this one is very bad most can be solved by this method
When I worked in a repair shop back in the 80s and 90s, we used to see a lot of Pioneer branded CD players with bad spindle motors. This was a very common problem even into the 2000s when Pioneer were doing computer DVD writers (After the Pioneer DVD109 dvd writer came out things started to improve though) Every brand has its own issues. The other favourite (which persists to this day) are LiteOn branded drives with bad loading belts. Even today when I only really do repairs as a hobby instead of a job, whenever I see a LiteOn unit I replace the loading belt as a precaution (although with 99.9% of these, this is the actual fault anyway)
Brilliant video as ever awesome detail and all your advice has been truly appreciated could you advise of an odd issue have 3 top flight TECHNICS Slp 770 the class 4 x dacs not the later MASH specs all? Completely at random ? Jump to odd tracks??? When run for time???all laser optics cleaned track bars checked set presets re optics per manual however no scope so can't check eye etc?? Am guessing filtering in Psu??? Any help would be appreciated??
Sorry you are looking in the wrong place. after few years, the laser diodes are weak behind the laserhead Back is a regular turn this 5 or 10 minutes as clock so amplify the power and runs perfectly for a few years again I have done 100 times and with full function Best Regards from Frankfurt
I know this isn't as good as replacing the motor but this idea will make it last for a decent amount of time ... the same grease you use on the worm screw use a q-tip to force some on the top bearing of the motor and give her another spin test for noise ... in my experience that does a fantastic job of making a noisy motor much quieter... another thing I noticed the motor was going much faster than it would in the normal speed range for an audio CD player 500 RPM is the fastest she'll spin the disc (range based on my research is 500 RPM to 200 RPM) anyway that may help to spare the life of some future CD PLAYERS ... HAPPY HOLIDAYS EVERYONE
I had two of these units back in the early 90's and they were both junk. the first one spent most of the first year I owned it in the shop. They finally gave up trying to fix it and gave me a new one. it worked for about a year and started to act up. I was so disgusted I never bought another piece of Technics gear.
Hi there I have a model a few up from this. It's problem is the top disk clamp sticks to the cd. Any recommendations to help stop the stickiness. Thanks very much in advance
I was wondering how sensitive these cd mechanisms are to the vertical spacing of the spindle head in your experience? I assume since the focus mechanism has a servo action and some physical vertical adjustibility that there can be some drive compensation even if you are a little off. I have an old bookshelf system with a seized motor bearing and a box of pancake DC motors that would fit so I guess I have nothing to lose but just wanted to know what I was getting myself into. If it comes down to it I could just buy a replacement assembly but I'd rather replace what I can with free parts I already have. Sorry for the ramble and thanks for your videos, I've learned a lot from watching them!
The placement of the disk table is not as critical as one would think. Use a feeler gauge like a mechanic would use to set points gap on an old mechanical distributor to measure the gap between the base of the disk table and the top of the motor before removing it. Then when you press it on, stick the gauge in and press down to same level. The focus servo can raise, lower the lens slightly to compensate. I changed literally hundreds of motors. Use loctite to secure the disk table to the shaft (not krazy glue as you will never get it off again if you do) Motors used to be a dime a dozen. Well maybe not a dime a dozen but they were only 2 or 3 bucks a pop at the local electronics shop when they were around. They closed their doors after the founder and his son both passed away within a month of each other. The grandson of the founder doesn't appear to have an interest in the family business. That is like a friend of mine. His grandfather started a jewlery business., which his dad followed in his foot steps, and now my friend is also carrying on the family business, and from what I gather he does quite well. None of his 4 kids have an interest in passing the torch. The girls are waiting on tables and the boy was learning to fix elevators.
Thanks so much for doing this video and sharing this information. I've been hoping you'd do a CD player repair. I found an almost identical used Technics SL-PJ316 that has similar problems. Cleaning the laser lens helped. Are there any used CD players that you like? Thanks a lot, Tom
Sony ES players are very good, and very heavy. If you can find a Sony CDP-X555ES you will have one of the best single disk CD players ever made. Philips and Magnavox also made some good ones. Next video in production now is a Sherwood 5 disk CD player.
Thank you very much for the information. I just got a Sony ES cassette deck. After a clean-up, it plays pretty well. That sucker is rather heavy as well. I guess the Sony ES models were their higher end equipment. I'll be sure to look out for that Sherwood video. Thanks again, Tom
Sad is your go to the island of misfit electronics oh well I have an ad, CD player that does the same thing circulation in sometime around 1989 to 1993 or four I have to look to see if the disc wobbles when is in play mode I don’t recall doing that if it doesn’t what your ideas on what it could be him originally I did not put it all I clean the laser however what do you recommend for cleaning the laser I used to use alcohol cleaning up real good but I made a mistake and use Windex on this one with a Q-tip and I’m wondering if I just got a little bit of film on it so
Just bought one of these (1991?)at a thrift store $14 CAD and it plays very well on my 2nd stereo. Sounds identical in quality and character to my 1989 Denon DCD 620. Hoping they both last as a new cd player is just not worth the $$ below $600
I have a Sony CD player that is super sensitive to skipping from vibrations, but if I prop up the player at a 45 degree angle the problem goes away and it is rock solid. (yes the speakers are far away) Any idea of what the problem would be?
Is a bad motor bearing the only thing that causes a laser to not read a CD?I bought a CD boombox that wouldn't play certain CD'S. It would spin, but no audio.
These kind of units are generally cheaply made and suffer from all manner of issues with the CD section. Bad lasers are quite common with these, but the motors are often troublesome too. My advice (if you fancy having a go yourself) would first be to clean the laser and check that it moves freely. You'd be surprised how often a simple cleaning procedure will resurrect CD and DVD players (computer optical drives too as they tend to REALLY fill up with dust and other crap due to the fans pulling it in)
Looks like a Philips/VAM 1202 mechanism, made in china with bad motor not only also look at the sled as it is dirty it can also make the disk "skip" but the sled is cleanable and with good lubrication easy to fix.
can they replace the motor. I have a Technics PG4 [2000] Tracks 2 to 7 skip within the tracks [not skipping a track to track].Could the motor be at fault? i've had it since 2004.from Greece
Over time all laser pickups will deteriorate and their output will reduce, but it's definitely worth trying to clean the laser lens before you condemn it
Got given one the exact same, works great but i need to change the semi floppy belt lol for the eject although mines older inside, yours looks more modern in there mine has the linear motor too which is a neat concept
If the problem is just the key contacts themselves, it should be an easy, though time consuming and labour-intensive (thus fairly expensive) fix - but well within the scope of a diy repair. If it's the key scanning electronics then it's most likely a problem with the power supply to the scanning hardware. Likely culprits would be bad capacitors and/or open fusible links / resistors (the former can often cause the latter) The chips themselves rarely give problems but with some keyboards being over 30 years old now, it's possible. Without seeing it, my guess would be physical contacts, bad caps, fusible parts, dry joints and then semiconductors, more or less in that order
First ever UA-cam comment here. Been watching your videos for 12 months. Well impressed with your knowledge and sharing of it. I just fixed my cd player that was skipping only on the first and last tracks. Regreasted the post and its now sorted after a few tracks being played. Not the first fix I've done after watching your videos. Much respect!
Great video. Thank you for making & posting it. Dear sir, my Magnavox (16bit) emits a whining noise (low, and hard to hear) after the 1st two (sometimes more) tracks. And mis-tracks and stops shortly thereafter. (The spindle bearing on runs smooth and seems still good). Any comments, clues to look for most welcomed. Thank you so much. tonyd\.
In my opinion is not the motor, it's obvious that if you make it spin over the normal speed, it will make noises. The problem is the lens, the same with all the Technics...
Bearings wear out and cause vibration on the disk that scatters the laser beam. We used to change hundreds of motors. They were dirt cheap back in the day.
In the 90s, Technics lost the easy to service reputation they had with their earlier equipment. There is another video on youtube of somebody trying to change the belts of a 90s Technics tape deck, he spend like forever on disasembling to get to the belts. If it would had been an 802s Technics deck, it would had been a 5 minute job. Anyway, most of the Technics pats are quite bulletproof. Technics cd-players go cheap 2nd hand, everybody knows the motor will stop working some day, but that really is the only weakness. For 50 bucks, I always try my luck on a Technics. A new Cd-player of this quality can cost like 6 time that and it can die too in like 3 or 4 years.
If it has a vacuum fluorescent display and it is dim you can check the screen, anode voltages and filament. If the voltages are where they should be then the problem will be the display tube. Fluorescent displays are vacuum tubes and operate exactly the same way. Thermanic emission. The filament is the directly heated cathode. Eventually it wears out and loses emission and then the display fades.
I actually pin the main circuit board wrongly but deck was blind and i check pins again it was wringly clipped having one out so due that i gave whole power wrong with rest of 7 pins sequence wise.but later when i noticed connection and pin it back properly display got faded now
Capacitors seems ok and no smoke or any short noise everything start working properly just the display is weak and dim as this deck is 1994 model but rarely used as you can see its model while typing Sony FH-B170CD
C.d players die too easy, the laser itself is a dodgy component, i've allways suspected that it starts to produce impure/distorted emissions and the data is not as clean as it should be. Yet ive looked at the output of two identical lasers with a scope and could not see a difference, but one works perfect and plays everything, the other plays nothing. This had happened too many times to me, lasers are not up to the job.
Actually, in my experience, the laser itself is very robust compared to the mechanicals. The CD spindle motors on the old machines do wear out. The brushless motors on modern CD-ROM drives seem a lot more reliable.
Perhaps i just got the bad ones, i honestly don't know. I must be a magnet for bad lasers lol :-D. The part that fixed most of the units i've repaired is the laser assembly, no carefull oiling/cleaning or adjustment of anything else made a difference, what conclusion would you come to if you were me, apart from running away with your arms in the air screaming LOL :-D.
I don't know either, but if replacing the lasers got your units to work then that's all that matters! I know that static electricity can kill a laser assembly quickly, but from my understanding that usually happens when handled outside the circuit. New laser units (or clones like for some Sonys) are probably easier to find then the mechanical bits and pieces and motors which might be expensive or impossible to locate, unless you have a parts units like 12voltvids mentioned!
C.d/dvd writers in computers do seem to kill the laser, i think it gets too hot while writing and damages the laser, slow write speeds and intolerence to certain disk types usually is the effect. Oddly i dont see too many computer cd players with laser death, odd that.
Laser block fail for generally 2 reasons. The lens gets dirty with dust, smoke or other airborne pollutants, or one of the spot detectors fails. The diode is usually not the fault. More common are the mechanical issues with the cheap motors that were used in the cheaper CD players. High end units used BSL AC motors like a hard drive would use. Cheap ones used a cheap DC motor, with cheap bearings. CD themself is a major cause of failure. The disks are mass produced, and most are not properly balanced. Just the weight of the ink on the top of the disk will unbalance the disk, and of course the hole may not be punched absolutely center or the thickness of the plastic may vary, or how the edge is trimmed. Even how the disk is clamped has an effect.This imbalance puts extra stress on the motor and eventually wears the bearings causing a vibration to resonate through the disk and cause read errors more prominent as the disk plays on as the laser moved from center to edge, so these errors become larger as the laser tracks out.
Good Morning.
You are a great teacher.
Thank you.
I am 63 years old.
Learn by just watching you.
Thank you
Your videos were an inspiration for me to find Sony CD player CDP-XE510 from the 1990s on a local classifieds website for ~20 US dollars about a year ago. Almost perfect cosmetic state, reads scratched discs without skipping, sounds good to my ears. The only issue was a cracked solder joint of a ground pin on output RCA terminals which I fixed easily.
Now I have a growing collection of CDs, some of them cost more than the player I play them on.
My 1987 DENON DCD-900 CD player was skipping as well. Thank goodness that just a few drops of electric shaver oil in the right place fixed the problem. That was about 5 years ago, and it is still working perfectly. That very same type of oil has fixed several of my devices over the years.
I literally could watch your videos all day. I learn so much!
Another informative video. Always very well diagnosed and explained
1:36 That means the CD is actually 73:57 in length with a two-second pause/lead-in before the start of the first track
I have watched A LOT of videos over the years concerning CD players skipping. every one has told me to clean the lense or turn a screw a tiny amount to stop the skipping. I tried those remedies and they never worked. This is the first video I have ever seen talking about a motor going bad. It finally clears up the confusion. One thing I have found to be true - old cd players skip and I wont buy old used ones any more. but DVD players seem NEVER to skip, i use DVD players that are 20 years old and they never skip. why are DVD players so much more robust than CD players ? and why does the 25 year old CD player in my car never skip when my 10 year old home cd player does ? i dont get it.
Really interesting, thanks. Bad bearings - what a pain - probably drawing extra current as well (the motor), just to keep the revs up.
No expert here - but getting into 12v electronics as a hobby. Its excellent fun.
Would it not be possible to take the motor out and apply oil to the bearings? I found that in some computer cooling fans the bearings (due to hot air being pulled through them) tended to dry out and become worn. The best oil I found to use was a very small quantity of fully synthetic engine oil; this oil would revive most noisy fans because its viscosity would act to fill the worn bearing gap thus preventing resonance and was impervious to heat so would last indefinitely. The above method worked on even the very small fans with low torque, so, I would imagine, be certainly OK with a motor capable of spinning a CD.
The underlying issue is bearings thenself are worn out , this wear creates slop in the motor shaft itself (it will also lower the disk spindle height throwng off the focus) taking one of those motors apart without dystroying them is also no small task , when a motor with worn out bearings spins each pole of the rotor passes through a magnetic field. every time this happens it makes the motor shaft vibrate like a tuning fork with its frequency dependent on the motors RPM,, this vibration sets up a resonace in the disk on spindle like a speaker cone , this is "seen" by the tracking servo circuts as noise and they try and correct this issue once the resonance gets bad enougth they are Overwhelmed .
@@brianperkins6121 I've often injected a minute drop of machine oil into these motors via a tiny hole in the casing. Albeit this one is very bad most can be solved by this method
Every time I see a vid I see all the years of experience it’s so satisfying to see one that doesn’t need to guess what is wrong .
This certainly gave me some perspective on my failing Onkyo DVD player exhibiting the same symptom.
I've had my SL P 420A for around 35 yrs & its never missed a beat. I think that was the period when audio gear had quality.
When I worked in a repair shop back in the 80s and 90s, we used to see a lot of Pioneer branded CD players with bad spindle motors. This was a very common problem even into the 2000s when Pioneer were doing computer DVD writers (After the Pioneer DVD109 dvd writer came out things started to improve though)
Every brand has its own issues. The other favourite (which persists to this day) are LiteOn branded drives with bad loading belts. Even today when I only really do repairs as a hobby instead of a job, whenever I see a LiteOn unit I replace the loading belt as a precaution (although with 99.9% of these, this is the actual fault anyway)
Lots of CD players had bad spindle motors. I changed tons, and I mean tons of them.
If cleaning does not help the laser diode turn 5-10 minutes control resistance
Brilliant video as ever awesome detail and all your advice has been truly appreciated could you advise of an odd issue have 3 top flight TECHNICS Slp 770 the class 4 x dacs not the later MASH specs all? Completely at random ? Jump to odd tracks??? When run for time???all laser optics cleaned track bars checked set presets re optics per manual however no scope so can't check eye etc?? Am guessing filtering in Psu??? Any help would be appreciated??
Sorry you are looking in the wrong place.
after few years, the laser diodes are weak behind the laserhead Back is a regular turn this 5 or 10 minutes as clock so amplify the power and runs perfectly for a few years again I have done 100 times and with full function Best Regards from Frankfurt
My factory CD player in my car skips CD’s really bad & my CD’s ain’t scratched or even marked either but the motor is still quiet on it.
I know this isn't as good as replacing the motor but this idea will make it last for a decent amount of time ... the same grease you use on the worm screw use a q-tip to force some on the top bearing of the motor and give her another spin test for noise ... in my experience that does a fantastic job of making a noisy motor much quieter... another thing I noticed the motor was going much faster than it would in the normal speed range for an audio CD player 500 RPM is the fastest she'll spin the disc (range based on my research is 500 RPM to 200 RPM) anyway that may help to spare the life of some future CD PLAYERS ...
HAPPY HOLIDAYS EVERYONE
I had two of these units back in the early 90's and they were both junk. the first one spent most of the first year I owned it in the shop. They finally gave up trying to fix it and gave me a new one. it worked for about a year and started to act up. I was so disgusted I never bought another piece of Technics gear.
Majoritatea CD Playerelor de la Technics functioneaza de peste 20 de ani !!! Chiar eu detin asa ceva. Probabil si cine le foloseste este un junk.
Your video's are awesome I learn so much
I see Banggood and Wish sell replacement spindle motors... can't say if they are any good or not ... probably not...
A motor is a motor. As long as it is the correct size it should work.
@@12voltvids I see they come in different voltages... 3.6 to 6 volts... guess you better know which before ordering one?
Hi there I have a model a few up from this. It's problem is the top disk clamp sticks to the cd. Any recommendations to help stop the stickiness. Thanks very much in advance
I was wondering how sensitive these cd mechanisms are to the vertical spacing of the spindle head in your experience? I assume since the focus mechanism has a servo action and some physical vertical adjustibility that there can be some drive compensation even if you are a little off. I have an old bookshelf system with a seized motor bearing and a box of pancake DC motors that would fit so I guess I have nothing to lose but just wanted to know what I was getting myself into. If it comes down to it I could just buy a replacement assembly but I'd rather replace what I can with free parts I already have. Sorry for the ramble and thanks for your videos, I've learned a lot from watching them!
The placement of the disk table is not as critical as one would think. Use a feeler gauge like a mechanic would use to set points gap on an old mechanical distributor to measure the gap between the base of the disk table and the top of the motor before removing it. Then when you press it on, stick the gauge in and press down to same level. The focus servo can raise, lower the lens slightly to compensate. I changed literally hundreds of motors. Use loctite to secure the disk table to the shaft (not krazy glue as you will never get it off again if you do) Motors used to be a dime a dozen. Well maybe not a dime a dozen but they were only 2 or 3 bucks a pop at the local electronics shop when they were around. They closed their doors after the founder and his son both passed away within a month of each other. The grandson of the founder doesn't appear to have an interest in the family business.
That is like a friend of mine. His grandfather started a jewlery business., which his dad followed in his foot steps, and now my friend is also carrying on the family business, and from what I gather he does quite well.
None of his 4 kids have an interest in passing the torch. The girls are waiting on tables and the boy was learning to fix elevators.
12voltvids Thanks for the info, it's good to hear that there is hope for my bookshelf player yet.
Do you remember markings on spindle motor? I am almost 100% sure that it's Mabuchi but I need exact model. Thanks in advance!
Thanks so much for doing this video and sharing this information. I've been hoping you'd do a CD player repair. I found an almost identical used Technics SL-PJ316 that has similar problems. Cleaning the laser lens helped.
Are there any used CD players that you like?
Thanks a lot, Tom
Sony ES players are very good, and very heavy. If you can find a Sony
CDP-X555ES you will have one of the best single disk CD players ever made.
Philips and Magnavox also made some good ones.
Next video in production now is a Sherwood 5 disk CD player.
Thank you very much for the information. I just got a Sony ES cassette deck. After a clean-up, it plays pretty well. That sucker is rather heavy as well. I guess the Sony ES models were their higher end equipment.
I'll be sure to look out for that Sherwood video.
Thanks again, Tom
He does repair videos all the time with CD Players.
Vintage radios too.
@Taco Thank you for this information. I didn't know there was a QS line.
Sad is your go to the island of misfit electronics oh well I have an ad, CD player that does the same thing circulation in sometime around 1989 to 1993 or four I have to look to see if the disc wobbles when is in play mode I don’t recall doing that if it doesn’t what your ideas on what it could be him originally I did not put it all I clean the laser however what do you recommend for cleaning the laser I used to use alcohol cleaning up real good but I made a mistake and use Windex on this one with a Q-tip and I’m wondering if I just got a little bit of film on it so
Just bought one of these (1991?)at a thrift store $14 CAD and it plays very well on my 2nd stereo. Sounds identical in quality and character to my 1989 Denon DCD 620. Hoping they both last as a new cd player is just not worth the $$ below $600
After i change on a SONY CDP-750 the laser keep skiping at minimal vibration maybe the ruber isolators are failing?
I have a Sony CD player that is super sensitive to skipping from vibrations, but if I prop up the player at a 45 degree angle the problem goes away and it is rock solid. (yes the speakers are far away) Any idea of what the problem would be?
Why are the disc clamps bottom part big?
Or wide?
Is a bad motor bearing the only thing that causes a laser to not read a CD?I bought a CD boombox that wouldn't play certain CD'S. It would spin, but no audio.
These kind of units are generally cheaply made and suffer from all manner of issues with the CD section. Bad lasers are quite common with these, but the motors are often troublesome too. My advice (if you fancy having a go yourself) would first be to clean the laser and check that it moves freely. You'd be surprised how often a simple cleaning procedure will resurrect CD and DVD players (computer optical drives too as they tend to REALLY fill up with dust and other crap due to the fans pulling it in)
Looks like a Philips/VAM 1202 mechanism, made in china with bad motor not only also look at the sled as it is dirty it can also make the disk "skip" but the sled is cleanable and with good lubrication easy to fix.
can they replace the motor. I have a Technics PG4 [2000] Tracks 2 to 7 skip within the tracks [not skipping a track to track].Could the motor be at fault? i've had it since 2004.from Greece
I have a pale of these decks . Dose the LASER fade down on CD decks........?
Over time all laser pickups will deteriorate and their output will reduce, but it's definitely worth trying to clean the laser lens before you condemn it
I had the same machine european model and it was working very good.
will a walkman motor work?
Thank you for this video!
What type of grease you are using?
Got given one the exact same, works great but i need to change the semi floppy belt lol for the eject although mines older inside, yours looks more modern in there mine has the linear motor too which is a neat concept
Hey I got given a SL-P105 and the tray won’t open either, where can you get a semi floppy belt.
I’m new at this
do you ever repair synth keyboards? I have an e-mu keyboard with a bad contact board
If the problem is just the key contacts themselves, it should be an easy, though time consuming and labour-intensive (thus fairly expensive) fix - but well within the scope of a diy repair. If it's the key scanning electronics then it's most likely a problem with the power supply to the scanning hardware. Likely culprits would be bad capacitors and/or open fusible links / resistors (the former can often cause the latter) The chips themselves rarely give problems but with some keyboards being over 30 years old now, it's possible.
Without seeing it, my guess would be physical contacts, bad caps, fusible parts, dry joints and then semiconductors, more or less in that order
ive got the matching cassette deck to this cd player, the technics rs-bx727
I always like to pick up those older discs when i see them at thrift stores
Can't you take it a part and change the bearings? I do that to the motors on my rc helicopter motors all the time.
You want to try that? Be my guest.
There is a big difference between RC helicopters and CD spindle motors.
First ever UA-cam comment here. Been watching your videos for 12 months. Well impressed with your knowledge and sharing of it. I just fixed my cd player that was skipping only on the first and last tracks. Regreasted the post and its now sorted after a few tracks being played. Not the first fix I've done after watching your videos. Much respect!
I bought a pioneer 6 pac i didn’t know the lens falls out I opened the unit in the garage that I do woodworking.😮never found it.
Nice video, tells me what to look for when my Sony 40 cd player starts acting up
I probably have a hundred motors every time I see one tossed I pick them up for parts. Problem is replacing the platter it has to be the same height.
yes spindle height is critical
Hi no power on my CD player similar technics any ideas
Dears, does anyone knows the exact laser lens Model??
Hi! Are you using the Q-Tip wet or with some kind of cleaning solution?
That motor kinda sounds like a mixer in the kitchen.
Great video. Thank you for making & posting it. Dear sir, my Magnavox (16bit) emits a whining noise (low, and hard to hear) after the 1st two (sometimes more) tracks. And mis-tracks and stops shortly thereafter. (The spindle bearing on runs smooth and seems still good). Any comments, clues to look for most welcomed. Thank you so much. tonyd\.
In my opinion is not the motor, it's obvious that if you make it spin over the normal speed, it will make noises. The problem is the lens, the same with all the Technics...
Bearings wear out and cause vibration on the disk that scatters the laser beam. We used to change hundreds of motors. They were dirt cheap back in the day.
@@12voltvids rare with bearings, all Technics I checked had bronze bushings.
@@12voltvids in that case we use to drop wd40 inside the motor and make it spin. If it doesn't work, dismantling the motor can be the solution.
In the 90s, Technics lost the easy to service reputation they had with their earlier equipment. There is another video on youtube of somebody trying to change the belts of a 90s Technics tape deck, he spend like forever on disasembling to get to the belts. If it would had been an 802s Technics deck, it would had been a 5 minute job.
Anyway, most of the Technics pats are quite bulletproof. Technics cd-players go cheap 2nd hand, everybody knows the motor will stop working some day, but that really is the only weakness. For 50 bucks, I always try my luck on a Technics. A new Cd-player of this quality can cost like 6 time that and it can die too in like 3 or 4 years.
yes that motor went wrong with my lg dvd recorder twice lol
I had a cd player just like that. it lasted me 25 years
Please guide my sony mini hifi fh-B170 has low display light what i do?
If it has a vacuum fluorescent display and it is dim you can check the screen, anode voltages and filament. If the voltages are where they should be then the problem will be the display tube. Fluorescent displays are vacuum tubes and operate exactly the same way. Thermanic emission. The filament is the directly heated cathode. Eventually it wears out and loses emission and then the display fades.
@@12voltvids how i can show you video with on display for a look
I actually pin the main circuit board wrongly but deck was blind and i check pins again it was wringly clipped having one out so due that i gave whole power wrong with rest of 7 pins sequence wise.but later when i noticed connection and pin it back properly display got faded now
Capacitors seems ok and no smoke or any short noise everything start working properly just the display is weak and dim as this deck is 1994 model but rarely used as you can see its model while typing Sony FH-B170CD
Please guide i am waiting as i changed the display but no improvement.
i have a cd play the lazer wont retract
Try a cd rom motor
C.d players die too easy, the laser itself is a dodgy component, i've allways suspected that it starts to produce impure/distorted emissions and the data is not as clean as it should be.
Yet ive looked at the output of two identical lasers with a scope and could not see a difference, but one works perfect and plays everything, the other plays nothing.
This had happened too many times to me, lasers are not up to the job.
Actually, in my experience, the laser itself is very robust compared to the mechanicals. The CD spindle motors on the old machines do wear out. The brushless motors on modern CD-ROM drives seem a lot more reliable.
Perhaps i just got the bad ones, i honestly don't know.
I must be a magnet for bad lasers lol :-D.
The part that fixed most of the units i've repaired is the laser assembly, no carefull oiling/cleaning or adjustment of anything else made a difference, what conclusion would you come to if you were me, apart from running away with your arms in the air screaming LOL :-D.
I don't know either, but if replacing the lasers got your units to work then that's all that matters! I know that static electricity can kill a laser assembly quickly, but from my understanding that usually happens when handled outside the circuit. New laser units (or clones like for some Sonys) are probably easier to find then the mechanical bits and pieces and motors which might be expensive or impossible to locate, unless you have a parts units like 12voltvids mentioned!
C.d/dvd writers in computers do seem to kill the laser, i think it gets too hot while writing and damages the laser, slow write speeds and intolerence to certain disk types usually is the effect.
Oddly i dont see too many computer cd players with laser death, odd that.
Laser block fail for generally 2 reasons. The lens gets dirty with dust, smoke or other airborne pollutants, or one of the spot detectors fails. The diode is usually not the fault.
More common are the mechanical issues with the cheap motors that were used in the cheaper CD players. High end units used BSL AC motors like a hard drive would use. Cheap ones used a cheap DC motor, with cheap bearings.
CD themself is a major cause of failure. The disks are mass produced, and most are not properly balanced. Just the weight of the ink on the top of the disk will unbalance the disk, and of course the hole may not be punched absolutely center or the thickness of the plastic may vary, or how the edge is trimmed. Even how the disk is clamped has an effect.This imbalance puts extra stress on the motor and eventually wears the bearings causing a vibration to resonate through the disk and cause read errors more prominent as the disk plays on as the laser moved from center to edge, so these errors become larger as the laser tracks out.
your a god send
Sounds like bad brushes
Buy a new one,Problem Solve.Jeeeeeezzzz!
Where would the fun be in doing that. Besides i hate spending money.
70% empty 😂😂
It uses skype lol