My Dad used to just take a short piece of copper pipe one size bigger and cut it into two half pipes , then he would use one of the half pipes just like your fancy patch . He sure taught me a lot of stuff I still miss him , he’s been gone now almost ten years . Great channel you have thanks for the update in technology , all the plumbing here in Canada has been plastic for about thirty years but I still think copper is better just more expensive so it’s only used in industrial or commercial buildings now not residential.
“All the plumbing in Canada” 😂 I live in a house with copper pipes only. As with the rest of the homes/buildings in my community. I was told last year that all houses would get plastic pipes but I still have yet to see that. Im still dealing with busted, pinhole in my copper pipes. Sucks. Lol. I know this comment was a year ago. I just had to correct the “all the plumbing here in Canada”. 😂
My dad showed me how to fix a punctured copper pipe(I punctured it when nailing a floorboard back down😁). He cleaned the area.Screwed a small brass screw into the hole and then soldered over it.It never leaked👍
I wonder if we can use liquid PTFE together with the screw. I have use this method for PVC pipe which is much thicker and is non metallic. Copper pipe is much thinner and unlikely will work..
I repaired a central heating pipe by wrapping bicycle tube around it and securing the tube with cable ties. It was initially a temporary repair, but it lasted for 18 years until I decided to replace all my radiators.
I had the mounting bolt the holds the alternator in my car snap off when I was miles from home, No fan no cooling the rad like that. Rummaged around in the trunk and found a small c clamp, clamped in place, I didn't think it would even work, keep my eye on the temperature guage and prayed all the way home. 6 months later I still hadn't fixed it.
I really like your videos. Simple and to the point without being patronising, and full of ideas to put at the back of my mind for when disaster strikes!
Hmm, I've soldered (tin/lead) professionally on musical instruments (brass, nickel silver, copper, silver and gold) for decades, and never, ever once, had a solder joint fracture due to water cooling. The lead-free tin/copper solder works the same way. I've always cooled with water right away, once the solder has frozen and the piece is still boiling hot, because it's the best way to get the flux residue off. Tip; you can make a patch using a section of the same diameter pipe. Cut it lengthwise such that you get slightly more than a half circle, remove the burrs, and it will "snap" over the original pipe nicely. Then solder using liquid flux and solid wire solder. If you need to clamp the patch onto the pipe for some reason, use soft steel wire, wrapped around the part and twisted tight, then solder, then cut and remove the wire.
@@CHMichael your water must how low ph making it acidic. You could always add a neautralizer tank with calcite in it to increase the ph to prevent the holes. Especially if you see any green blue coloring around your fixtures or in sink and tub. That’s a classic sign of acidic water eating your copper pipes up from the inside.
When it happens at elbows and couplings, it's usually because the pipe wasn't properly deburred on the inside before fitting. This creates internal eddys in the flow that eats away the pipe over time.
I had a tiny hole in a pipe in my basement right where I stood at my work bench that dripped water on me. I used a hose clamp and a piece of inner tube to seal it. That was over a decade ago and it still doesn't leak. They also sell couplers without an internal stop that will slide over the pipe, after cutting it. Then you can put flux on the pipe and solder the coupling. The solder will draw into the space between the coupler and pipe.
Only comment I'd add is that the hole in this vide was caused by a drill and not by corrosion. It's more common to run into pinhole leaks that are caused by corrosion which requires a lot more work than what was described in this video. When the cause is corrosion, you can bet that much more of the pipe has been weakened than just the one or more pinhole leaks that are visible, what's happening is that on the inside of the pipe you probably have several places where a hole is about to show up soon to follow the ones that have already appeared, and every one of them on the inside of the pipe will look like a BB hole in glass (a kind of inverted cone). So, in all cases where the pinhole(s) are caused by corrosion or old age, you have to remove and replace that entire length of pipe. Don't repair just the pinhole or you'll end up coming back again and again as more pinhole leaks will show up.
I get tiny holes and inject non bubbling gorilla glue - works great. 6y an holding. For larger problems - rubber stretch tape .rap 1x then ad copper plate and apply pressure wrapping. Also works. - in case your scared of a blowtorch
Just a had bathroom sink pipe leak on me. Cut out part of the drywall for access to the pipe. I found a pin hole size hole. I hope I can repair like this. Thanks for the info! ❤
One comment - the additional fitting is fine unless working in a confined area, where you cannot move the cut ends apart far enough to fit the piece in. That's when I discovered slip fittings - you can get a "straight slip coupling" - then you can just bend the pipe out, slide the coupling all the way on to one side of the joint, let it spring back to align with the other end of the pipe, and slide the coupling back over the joint. Solder in place, job done. Normal couplings have a ridge in the middle to help centre the fitting on to both ends of the pipes, so won't slide on far enough if you can't get a big enough gap between the ends. Slip couplings overcome this - hendy when you need 'em, so I've now got a few in my spares box for when I need one.
I cut a short section out and put a 90 Deg bend on each open end. Then make a "C piece" from 2 more 90 Deg bends with a short length of pipe connecting them. Then slide the c piece you made onto the 2 90 Deg bends fitted previously.
I'm a plumber and over the years have fixed frozen burst pipes with just solder and flux, cleaning it first with sand cloth. Squeeze the crack as closed as you can. Silver solder works best. No need for a patch piece.
I had a pipe split a bit due to an unusual freeze as the pipe was outside. All I did was put a piece of bicycle inner tube over it, take a hose clamp and tighten it up over the split. It's still holding over 30 years later.
@@vinny5004 what would that matter considering what is already in your water ? Anyway, cant happen as the hole was so small it was barely spraying out. The most important thing is that it was the hot water pipe to my old garage for the wash room. Sink and washer machine. Plus stuff just doesnt transfer like that in enough volume to make any differance at all. Thanks for being concerned about my health.
Finally UA-cam showing me a fix it video where it actually helps people lol. Watching plumbing makes me think of the good old days of watching my dad swear in German over metric overtaking imperial hahaha
Working in council housing it was always " changeover day" when people moved/ swapped houses that brought these leaks. When people lifted the carpets they pulled out all the nails they had hammered through pipes under the floorboards. Oh joy most Fridays 😂
I was chatting to an old guy in the local many years ago, he'd been a carpenter who worked on a large local council housing estate that was built in the early 50's. He was saying that the houses were really well built, and the workmen took a lot of care as they knew that they'd probably be living in one of the houses they were building
Either fix has its pros and cons in different situations. Good to see this type of video without being hammered with 20 seconds of ads at the start then another 20 seconds of ads 5 minutes in !!! Ads are ruining UA-cam !
My electrician burst a pipe, to be fair the pipe was so close to the floorboard. He used the metal circle on the backbox and put some strong bonding glue and it worked like a charm. It was funny when it burst, the high pitched scream never gets old :D
Had someone call me out last night, he'd tried this (from ur video i'd guess)but didn't clean the c/u 1st & or hadnt properly drained,soon put a no1 on!remember the old days of multiple frost bursts we used to wipe them with plumbers solder! Invest in a pipe expanding tool u can make ur own slip couplers up, Inc imperial/oversized ones,(toolstation used to sell them years ago).always thought the J/G fitting had to be screwed outwards to stop the collet ring being accidentally pushed in?
A hole in a copper water pipe means the pipe is weak and the time it takes to put a temporary patch on, I can remove all of the bad pipe and replace w/ new. I have been using Plex pipe for about ten years now and it makes life simple.. It's easier to replace copper pipe w/ Plex, then it is to solder copper, especially in tight places.. Plex is flexible so it cuts down on needing a lot of elbows.. & it's in compliance w/ building codes.
What I have done with some pipes the froze and split was to clean the pipe all the way around. If the pipe was pushed put I would push it back on with pliers. For the patch I would take copper lamp shade wire about 6 inch long. Remove the coating and wrap it around the pipe and solder it in place. looks like crap but i never had such a patch leak
Very well spoken 👏 to the point clear example.. simply put thank you for thanking the time and making this video. Sadly for me i was looking for a quick short-term rig fix. My landlord is a plumber and they will have it fixed in a day or 2 max. Its a big rust out whole from the pipe being on top of brick. Next to NO room to tape it but i did come up with a the "rig of the day" and seems to be working... take some Play-dough mold to fit over the hole in the pipe small sheet of clear plastic to wrap around the whole pipe and the P.D. than took 2 pipe holder starp clamp things that screw tight on both sides of the hole and poof no more leak! For now not sure how long it would work 😕 🙄
Anybody else here real-eye-zing that this Guy seems to have NO interest in actual DIY solutions? I bet he bought the most of his followers! See 'Fake Famous' documentary on how this works...
I made a temporary repair on a pinhole on a mains pressure pipe. Couldn't turn the stopcock so I cut up a bicycle inner tube into a long flat bandage and wrapped it around the pipe, keeping a good tension on. Each successive wrap adds to the pressure and with a few wraps of gaffer tape to hold it in place. Did this on a car rad hose years ago and it worked. As with all temp. repairs that work, it was conveniently forgotten. That was about 8 years ago and only now we have the plumber coming in for a bathroom install, will it get done properly. A proper fix in the first place is the correct solution, but this might just get someone out of trouble one day.
@@Summer_ant the same pressure as in the 10" street water main less the head lost in rising 1 floor up. You could easily have run a long hose pipe off it .... that sort of pressure. As i said, the more wraps, the more pressure you apply to the pipe [and hole] It was only supposed to be temporary ....... A proper fix is the best fix.
If you're using a push fitting like the one shown, you'd probably want to elevate one side of the pipe so you can push the fitting home easily. Then you'd have to hope there's enough play in the pipe to get the other side lined up. If you're using a solder or compression fitting they make "slip" couplings that the pipe can pass all the way through. You have to make sure each end of the pipe is of relatively equal depth inside the coupling when you go to solder or press it though.
I would emery cloth around the entire pipe and use enough flux, take a standard coupler and cut in in half down the middle making two of those pieces you show or just cut one side and spread it until it fits over the pipe and squeeze it down, even maybe using a hose clamp or two to form it back. Make sure the crack line is well away from the pipe perforation. Solder as usual and if needed have Channellock pliers ready to squeeze while the solder is still molten. Of course, the best way is to fix it right by cutting the pipe with a tube cutter and installing a coupler. If the pipe won't flex enough to get the coupler in, then go down the pipe to a fitting where you can get enough room. I would hate to install a union, especially in a wall where it would be covered just to have it leak later. After seeing the device, I do like how it snaps into place. The keys to effective soldering are.... Clean, Flux and not too much heat but heated evenly. Solder is drawn towards the heat source and yes, no movement while cooling and let it cool naturally.
nicked it, with a reciprocator mulit tool, just a graze but I am still worried because it is a washer hot water line. I don't know how this will affect integrity later on. am trying to trim out some excess old drywall so I can fit my new worked drywall in that i measured.
In the 2nd example of the traditional method of fitting a union you state that you could instead solder a fitting on each end of the pipe. I'd like to see you do that because the residue water in the pipe is drawn out to the repair joint when heated and stops the solder from setting because the water cools the joint down. I've tried it and impossible to do unless you know of a trick. Soldering the patch is different because the solder is external to hole, but soldering to an open ended pipe that is non-dry inside is a totally different thing.
I just tried one of the click fix jobbies and it didn't stick to the pipe. Did I use too much heat or flux? Or heated it for too long? The pipe is vertical.
Love it. Im sure those plastic connectors would last for ages. I've seen rubber and zip ties last for 5+ years. Typically when you start to get those pinhole leak issues its not the repairs you make that fail, its pipe further down the line in either direction that begin to pop pin holes. Corrosion pin holes are continual issues once you get the first one and its a problem that needs to be addressed with water chemistry. Usually at that point the right way to do it is treat the water and replace all the copper. Replacing all the copper is never cost effective. That being said you can accomplish the same thing with a torch and silver solder and it wont crack no matter whether you cool it naturally or with a wet rag... Its very, very pliable. Copper is also pretty damn soft unless its been heated and cooled quickly MULTIPLE times.
Using the deburring tool takes the rough edges off the internal edge of the pipe, it's not to prevent damge to the "O" ring in the fitting it's to reduce turbulence in the pipe.
Ive used a bit of marigold and insulation tape cut a small peice of the finger pulled fairly toght around the pipe then taped and inch either side i no its a total bodge job but it held for 5 years until all the pipework was replaced
Nice video. A question: I had a leak on a 4 inch cast iron drain pipe and contacted the chemist from PC7. He had me apply PC7 plumbers putty and then let it set. Then PC7 epoxy over the putty - problem solved. Stuff hardens like diamonds. No problems for years now but I'd like to see if a similar technique would work on this copper pipe under water pressure with JB WATER WELD. It might be a good idea for another video - please consider. Thanks, I subscribed! Tom
In my new house the sparky used a multitool to cut a patch out of the ceiling and nicked a central heating pipe that was on the other side of the plasterboard. He flew around like a headless chicken trying to stop it pissing down. I couldn't stop laughing! :'D
I have never seen a patch for a copper pipe , But if it works ! I generally fix something like that with a copper coupling or a copper union sometimes I weld it with silfoss with 5 % silver in it .
The reviews on amazon suggest these patches can't be used on vertical copper pipes. Can't understand why though. The leak I need to fix is on a vertical pipe so before I order can anyone tell me if this is true. Thanks
In an emergency…empty pipe, clean area really well, flux and solder hole……fix properly later on with a coupling ,have one with a stop? File the stop off inside…..beside ….for some reason slip couplings are twice as expensive…..as stop couplings…….
How about ordering it right now & sticking it in your toolbox? Never thought of that did ya genius? It's called 'preventative maintenance'. I have turn signal bulbs, headlights & other shit sitting there so that when an emergency comes along you go to your toolbox & handle that shit instead of being in YOUR sorry shoes when the answer has been given to you.
Cut the screw near the head , wrap some PTFE tap round the screw and tighten it back into the hole , the tape will seal it until you can get the proper fitting and you still have water meantime .
No! I use a hose clamp and rubber band or electrical tape. I always have succeeded with zero leakage afterward. If available a slit piece of garden hose is best with a quality hose clamp....a $1 repair that can last for years but I usually solder in a new coupling in a week or two.
@@TheDIYGuy1 Thank you! I'm going to go buy some of these patches as soon as the store opens. I didn't know they existed (I'm not a plumber). It will make repair much easier and faster.
What is sponge pudding? Like she is absorbing all your income, or she happened to bake a sponge cake and put some awful figgy pudding all over that people pretend to eat, but they just plug leaky pipes and such? Well, which one is it mate?
As a plumber I will probably find some of those patches for emergency repairs but I would advise against this being a permanent solution. Our goal is to keep the inside of the pipe as smooth as possible because turbulence deteriorates the pipe downstream of it. The patched hole is going to cause a lot of turbulence. It needs a coupling to repair it, I personally only use press or solder fittings on copper.
Since water pressure is about 60 psi and the hole is so tiny that would never be an issue, I think this would hold up to higher pressure that a standard coupling or elbow joint.
@@sarahdeshay1394 The size of the hole is irrelevant. The area inside the patch is relevant. Add in some pressure spikes from people quickly closing taps and some material fatique in the solder under tension... and you are in for a wet surprise! ;)
When the main shutoff valve doesn't shutoff completely, it's time for the stale bread trick when soldering. Careful drilling into walls, a slow leak undetected will cost thousands of dollar worth of damages, not to mention mold problems and not cover by insurance. Plus you could be sued by the tenant below.
I wouldn't heat the patch directly. That could produce a cold solder joint on the pipe itself. I would heat the pipe first around the patch then the patch. But I would rather cut the pipe, make sure to get rid of the inside indent of the screw which would cause water turbulence and patch it with pipe and or a slip fitting.
Good video, but i don't know if this is really much of an "emergency" repair, which suggests to me something the average homeowner could do at 4pm on Sunday without calling someone. The average homeowner won't have the part, the flame resistant cloth and in many cases, they torch.
One thing to note is that if there’s still water in the pipe then no amount of heat will solder that patch correctly as the water just sucks all that heat away.
My apartment still has the original copper piping in it going to the hot water heater and you can see the lead Sauter on everything. They didn’t do a neat job of it.
My Dad used to just take a short piece of copper pipe one size bigger and cut it into two half pipes , then he would use one of the half pipes just like your fancy patch . He sure taught me a lot of stuff I still miss him , he’s been gone now almost ten years . Great channel you have thanks for the update in technology , all the plumbing here in Canada has been plastic for about thirty years but I still think copper is better just more expensive so it’s only used in industrial or commercial buildings now not residential.
Sounds like a good dad
“All the plumbing in Canada” 😂 I live in a house with copper pipes only. As with the rest of the homes/buildings in my community. I was told last year that all houses would get plastic pipes but I still have yet to see that. Im still dealing with busted, pinhole in my copper pipes. Sucks. Lol.
I know this comment was a year ago. I just had to correct the “all the plumbing here in Canada”. 😂
I said within the last 30 years it was plastic before that yes it was copper and sometimes crappy galvanized metal pipe.
My dad showed me how to fix a punctured copper pipe(I punctured it when nailing a floorboard back down😁).
He cleaned the area.Screwed a small brass screw into the hole and then soldered over it.It never leaked👍
Great idea. That's a lot easier than going out and trying to get one of these patches as they're hard to come by.
I wonder if we can use liquid PTFE together with the screw. I have use this method for PVC pipe which is much thicker and is non metallic. Copper pipe is much thinner and unlikely will work..
Awesome impressive I will do just that THANKS A BUNCH!
@@tbot5709have you tried it yet, by any chance?
I repaired a central heating pipe by wrapping bicycle tube around it and securing the tube with cable ties. It was initially a temporary repair, but it lasted for 18 years until I decided to replace all my radiators.
The anxiety would drive me crazy
I had the mounting bolt the holds the alternator in my car snap off when I was miles from home, No fan no cooling the rad like that.
Rummaged around in the trunk and found a small c clamp, clamped in place, I didn't think it would even work, keep my eye on the temperature guage and prayed all the way home.
6 months later I still hadn't fixed it.
@@bipedalbob you should tie something to the c-clamp so that if it wiggles loose it can't fall and become a object (projectile) on the road.
@@jamesclark6487 no need,
That was over 40 years ago. I did finally fix it though .
A small jubilee clip would be more secure than tie wraps
I really like your videos. Simple and to the point without being patronising, and full of ideas to put at the back of my mind for when disaster strikes!
That's the aim of this channel. Keeping it simple!
Hmm, I've soldered (tin/lead) professionally on musical instruments (brass, nickel silver, copper, silver and gold) for decades, and never, ever once, had a solder joint fracture due to water cooling. The lead-free tin/copper solder works the same way. I've always cooled with water right away, once the solder has frozen and the piece is still boiling hot, because it's the best way to get the flux residue off. Tip; you can make a patch using a section of the same diameter pipe. Cut it lengthwise such that you get slightly more than a half circle, remove the burrs, and it will "snap" over the original pipe nicely. Then solder using liquid flux and solid wire solder. If you need to clamp the patch onto the pipe for some reason, use soft steel wire, wrapped around the part and twisted tight, then solder, then cut and remove the wire.
Thanks for this. I'm in USA and I've never seen those patches here. I've fixed a few pin hole leaks but they always seem to be at elbows or couplings.
I'm in Florida - our water is eating from the inside. You get tiny holes on the outside ( bigger inside wall)
@@CHMichael your water must how low ph making it acidic. You could always add a neautralizer tank with calcite in it to increase the ph to prevent the holes. Especially if you see any green blue coloring around your fixtures or in sink and tub. That’s a classic sign of acidic water eating your copper pipes up from the inside.
When it happens at elbows and couplings, it's usually because the pipe wasn't properly deburred on the inside before fitting. This creates internal eddys in the flow that eats away the pipe over time.
@@heroinmom153 that is absolutely correct. 💯
I had a tiny hole in a pipe in my basement right where I stood at my work bench that dripped water on me. I used a hose clamp and a piece of inner tube to seal it. That was over a decade ago and it still doesn't leak. They also sell couplers without an internal stop that will slide over the pipe, after cutting it. Then you can put flux on the pipe and solder the coupling. The solder will draw into the space between the coupler and pipe.
Yes otherwise known as a repair coupling. If you can Solder , you can get away with filling the pin hole that way as well. Coupling is best.
I use a hoseclamp and a rubber washer between the pipe and hoseclamp. All done in less than one minute.
Only comment I'd add is that the hole in this vide was caused by a drill and not by corrosion.
It's more common to run into pinhole leaks that are caused by corrosion which requires a lot more work than what was described in this video. When the cause is corrosion, you can bet that much more of the pipe has been weakened than just the one or more pinhole leaks that are visible, what's happening is that on the inside of the pipe you probably have several places where a hole is about to show up soon to follow the ones that have already appeared, and every one of them on the inside of the pipe will look like a BB hole in glass (a kind of inverted cone).
So, in all cases where the pinhole(s) are caused by corrosion or old age, you have to remove and replace that entire length of pipe. Don't repair just the pinhole or you'll end up coming back again and again as more pinhole leaks will show up.
Lmfao 🤣
Simple cut away the bad area and use a joiner
I get tiny holes and inject non bubbling gorilla glue - works great. 6y an holding.
For larger problems - rubber stretch tape .rap 1x then ad copper plate and apply pressure wrapping. Also works.
- in case your scared of a blowtorch
Just a had bathroom sink pipe leak on me. Cut out part of the drywall for access to the pipe. I found a pin hole size hole. I hope I can repair like this. Thanks for the info! ❤
One comment - the additional fitting is fine unless working in a confined area, where you cannot move the cut ends apart far enough to fit the piece in. That's when I discovered slip fittings - you can get a "straight slip coupling" - then you can just bend the pipe out, slide the coupling all the way on to one side of the joint, let it spring back to align with the other end of the pipe, and slide the coupling back over the joint. Solder in place, job done.
Normal couplings have a ridge in the middle to help centre the fitting on to both ends of the pipes, so won't slide on far enough if you can't get a big enough gap between the ends. Slip couplings overcome this - hendy when you need 'em, so I've now got a few in my spares box for when I need one.
I cut a short section out and put a 90 Deg bend on each open end. Then make a "C piece" from 2 more 90 Deg bends with a short length of pipe connecting them. Then slide the c piece you made onto the 2 90 Deg bends fitted previously.
I'm a plumber and over the years have fixed frozen burst pipes with just solder and flux, cleaning it first with sand cloth. Squeeze the crack as closed as you can. Silver solder works best. No need for a patch piece.
Just what I needed.!!!!! I have to remove a saddle valve, of course the needle hole. I think I'll do coupler. If I can find my size.
👍
Underrated channel, great quality and presentation. Thanks and subscribed 👍
Thanks for subscribing 👍
I had a pipe split a bit due to an unusual freeze as the pipe was outside. All I did was put a piece of bicycle inner tube over it, take a hose clamp and tighten it up over the split. It's still holding over 30 years later.
So you’ve been drinking and cooking with inner tube residue for 30 years? Nice.
@@vinny5004 what would that matter considering what is already in your water ? Anyway, cant happen as the hole was so small it was barely spraying out. The most important thing is that it was the hot water pipe to my old garage for the wash room. Sink and washer machine. Plus stuff just doesnt transfer like that in enough volume to make any differance at all. Thanks for being concerned about my health.
Finally UA-cam showing me a fix it video where it actually helps people lol.
Watching plumbing makes me think of the good old days of watching my dad swear in German over metric overtaking imperial hahaha
Haha 😃
Awesome explanation, thank you.
I work in the industry.
Well done video!
New subscriber.
Thanks for subscribing 👍
Working in council housing it was always " changeover day" when people moved/ swapped houses that brought these leaks. When people lifted the carpets they pulled out all the nails they had hammered through pipes under the floorboards. Oh joy most Fridays 😂
😂😂
I was chatting to an old guy in the local many years ago, he'd been a carpenter who worked on a large local council housing estate that was built in the early 50's. He was saying that the houses were really well built, and the workmen took a lot of care as they knew that they'd probably be living in one of the houses they were building
Either fix has its pros and cons in different situations. Good to see this type of video without being hammered with 20 seconds of ads at the start then another 20 seconds of ads 5 minutes in !!! Ads are ruining UA-cam !
👍
My electrician burst a pipe, to be fair the pipe was so close to the floorboard. He used the metal circle on the backbox and put some strong bonding glue and it worked like a charm.
It was funny when it burst, the high pitched scream never gets old :D
🙈 ouch
Sheet rock guys love this trick, that and pissing in tubs
Many thanks for doing this!! Thank you.
very instructive, thank you. Eres un artista.
Thanks 👍
Brilliant! Thank you for those two ways to fix a leaking pipe. It’s only a matter of time when this happens to me 🤣
Your welcome 👍
watched a bunch of these tonight. best so far. cheers matey
Your welcome 👍
@@TheDIYGuy1 His welcome??
You're welcome...
❤ Thanks again for video teaching. I’ve subscribed to your UA-cam channel from Ireland ❤
Thanks for subscribing
Great tips - keep up the great work mate 👍🏻
Thanks for watching!
Drop some silver solder on to it or try with flux and solder, drain the pipe first.
Excellent video and content. Keep them coming.
Will do 😉
Great video. I wish I knew about the patches 3 weeks ago
🙂thanks
Had someone call me out last night, he'd tried this (from ur video i'd guess)but didn't clean the c/u 1st & or hadnt properly drained,soon put a no1 on!remember the old days of multiple frost bursts we used to wipe them with plumbers solder!
Invest in a pipe expanding tool u can make ur own slip couplers up, Inc imperial/oversized ones,(toolstation used to sell them years ago).always thought the J/G fitting had to be screwed outwards to stop the collet ring being accidentally pushed in?
Great tips 👍
Thanks, glad you found it useful!
I'm a new subscriber. I liked the second fix you made to that copper pipe. Looked alot like how I fixed my waterhose. 😉❤️👍
🙂
That patch looked neat
A hole in a copper water pipe means the pipe is weak and the time it takes to put a temporary patch on, I can remove all of the bad pipe and replace w/ new.
I have been using Plex pipe for about ten years now and it makes life simple.. It's easier to replace copper pipe w/ Plex, then it is to solder copper, especially in tight places..
Plex is flexible so it cuts down on needing a lot of elbows..
& it's in compliance w/ building codes.
What I have done with some pipes the froze and split was to clean the pipe all the way around. If the pipe was pushed put I would push it back on with pliers. For the patch I would take copper lamp shade wire about 6 inch long. Remove the coating and wrap it around the pipe and solder it in place. looks like crap but i never had such a patch leak
I also love the owl at the 4:20 mark. 😀
Brilliant. Clearly explained!
Glad you like my videos
Very well spoken 👏 to the point clear example.. simply put thank you for thanking the time and making this video.
Sadly for me i was looking for a quick short-term rig fix.
My landlord is a plumber and they will have it fixed in a day or 2 max. Its a big rust out whole from the pipe being on top of brick. Next to NO room to tape it but i did come up with a the "rig of the day"
and seems to be working... take some Play-dough mold to fit over the hole in the pipe small sheet of clear plastic to wrap around the whole pipe and the P.D. than took 2 pipe holder starp clamp things that screw tight on both sides of the hole and poof no more leak! For now not sure how long it would work 😕 🙄
But on hour 8 and no leak yet. And its a main pipe lol i do have some plastic down for when it breaks again the water will go into a bucket
Anybody else here real-eye-zing that this Guy seems to have NO interest in actual DIY solutions? I bet he bought the most of his followers! See 'Fake Famous' documentary on how this works...
You can get compression fittings - similar to the first example in this video , but think a rubber gasket instead of solder and jubilee clips ...
I didn't know those patches existed. Great Video.
Thanks 👍
thanks for the repair tip
Your welcome 👍
Where do you get the quick fix patches and do they come in small sizes for very thin copper pipes? Thx
Nice, but I just cut out a section and use Pex with push fittings. Fast and easy. Thanks for sharing
Horses for courses. Not always possible if for example a pin hole is on a crossover
never seen one of those patches , thanks
No problem!
I made a temporary repair on a pinhole on a mains pressure pipe. Couldn't turn the stopcock so I cut up a bicycle inner tube into a long flat bandage and wrapped it around the pipe, keeping a good tension on. Each successive wrap adds to the pressure and with a few wraps of gaffer tape to hold it in place. Did this on a car rad hose years ago and it worked.
As with all temp. repairs that work, it was conveniently forgotten. That was about 8 years ago and only now we have the plumber coming in for a bathroom install, will it get done properly. A proper fix in the first place is the correct solution, but this might just get someone out of trouble one day.
How much pressure was in the System?
@@Summer_ant the same pressure as in the 10" street water main less the head lost in rising 1 floor up. You could easily have run a long hose pipe off it .... that sort of pressure. As i said, the more wraps, the more pressure you apply to the pipe [and hole] It was only supposed to be temporary ....... A proper fix is the best fix.
So using the second method how do you move the second section of pipe back far enough to slip it into the connector?
If you're using a push fitting like the one shown, you'd probably want to elevate one side of the pipe so you can push the fitting home easily. Then you'd have to hope there's enough play in the pipe to get the other side lined up. If you're using a solder or compression fitting they make "slip" couplings that the pipe can pass all the way through. You have to make sure each end of the pipe is of relatively equal depth inside the coupling when you go to solder or press it though.
No stop coupling
@@ctaylor7089 Got it. Thanks both.
I would emery cloth around the entire pipe and use enough flux, take a standard coupler and cut in in half down the middle making two of those pieces you show or just cut one side and spread it until it fits over the pipe and squeeze it down, even maybe using a hose clamp or two to form it back. Make sure the crack line is well away from the pipe perforation. Solder as usual and if needed have Channellock pliers ready to squeeze while the solder is still molten.
Of course, the best way is to fix it right by cutting the pipe with a tube cutter and installing a coupler. If the pipe won't flex enough to get the coupler in, then go down the pipe to a fitting where you can get enough room. I would hate to install a union, especially in a wall where it would be covered just to have it leak later.
After seeing the device, I do like how it snaps into place. The keys to effective soldering are....
Clean, Flux and not too much heat but heated evenly. Solder is drawn towards the heat source and yes, no movement while cooling and let it cool naturally.
nicked it, with a reciprocator mulit tool, just a graze but I am still worried because it is a washer hot water line. I don't know how this will affect integrity later on. am trying to trim out some excess old drywall so I can fit my new worked drywall in that i measured.
Well explained ty good job
Thanks
In the 2nd example of the traditional method of fitting a union you state that you could instead solder a fitting on each end of the pipe. I'd like to see you do that because the residue water in the pipe is drawn out to the repair joint when heated and stops the solder from setting because the water cools the joint down. I've tried it and impossible to do unless you know of a trick. Soldering the patch is different because the solder is external to hole, but soldering to an open ended pipe that is non-dry inside is a totally different thing.
I've seen some plug the pipe with rolled up bread, it'll stop the water so you can solder but afterwards just dissolve
@@fuzzy1dk me old Dad taught me . that trick 50 years ago brilliant isn't it ☺
Excellent Brother thanks
Your welcome
nice one mate. Aloha from Hawaiʻi!👍🏼
Very welcome
I just tried one of the click fix jobbies and it didn't stick to the pipe. Did I use too much heat or flux? Or heated it for too long? The pipe is vertical.
Love it. Im sure those plastic connectors would last for ages. I've seen rubber and zip ties last for 5+ years. Typically when you start to get those pinhole leak issues its not the repairs you make that fail, its pipe further down the line in either direction that begin to pop pin holes. Corrosion pin holes are continual issues once you get the first one and its a problem that needs to be addressed with water chemistry. Usually at that point the right way to do it is treat the water and replace all the copper. Replacing all the copper is never cost effective. That being said you can accomplish the same thing with a torch and silver solder and it wont crack no matter whether you cool it naturally or with a wet rag... Its very, very pliable. Copper is also pretty damn soft unless its been heated and cooled quickly MULTIPLE times.
Where do I find the push fit connector? i dont see a link below?
You remind me of Kevin De Bruyne. Ps, thanks for the quick fix help!
Happy to help!
Using the deburring tool takes the rough edges off the internal edge of the pipe, it's not to prevent damge to the "O" ring in the fitting it's to reduce turbulence in the pipe.
If you debur the pipe internally yes. Externally it is to prevent damage to the o ring.
How much does it usually cost around for a burst water pipe a few leaks from a copper pipe and plastic if i was to call a plumber
out of curiosity; would teflon tape wrapping well the screw and reinserting it into hole stop the leak at least temporarily?
Ive used a bit of marigold and insulation tape cut a small peice of the finger pulled fairly toght around the pipe then taped and inch either side i no its a total bodge job but it held for 5 years until all the pipework was replaced
Nice one ☝️
Do you get wire wool from wire sheep?
How did you guess 😄
Can I use a soldering iron instead of the torch…?
What is the name of the last device that snaps the pipe together after you cut it
Nice video. A question: I had a leak on a 4 inch cast iron drain pipe and contacted the chemist from PC7. He had me apply PC7 plumbers putty and then let it set. Then PC7 epoxy over the putty - problem solved. Stuff hardens like diamonds. No problems for years now but I'd like to see if a similar technique would work on this copper pipe under water pressure with JB WATER WELD. It might be a good idea for another video - please consider. Thanks, I subscribed!
Tom
have you triedbaking soda and superglue?
@@esecallum No. I thought you were clowning but I just watched a video with a guy doing it!
In my new house the sparky used a multitool to cut a patch out of the ceiling and nicked a central heating pipe that was on the other side of the plasterboard. He flew around like a headless chicken trying to stop it pissing down. I couldn't stop laughing! :'D
Lol these things happen. At least you took it well 😃
@@TheDIYGuy1 My dad was a plumber so I knew what to do, as you said these things happen!
@@sevenodonata 👍
@@sevenodonata doesn't matter if u know what to do. If you don't know where the shut off valve is its gona cause a lot of damage while u look.
I always cut the pipe and slid a repair coupling over the joint and soldered it in place.
I have never seen a patch for a copper pipe , But if it works ! I generally fix something like that with a copper coupling or a copper union sometimes I weld it with silfoss with 5 % silver in it .
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The reviews on amazon suggest these patches can't be used on vertical copper pipes. Can't understand why though. The leak I need to fix is on a vertical pipe so before I order can anyone tell me if this is true. Thanks
Please can you send me the link of all the tools you did used
In an emergency…empty pipe, clean area really well, flux and solder hole……fix properly later on with a coupling ,have one with a stop? File the stop off inside…..beside ….for some reason slip couplings are twice as expensive…..as stop couplings…….
If I had a leak I would definitely wait at least 3 days with my water turned off for my Amazon repair patch order to arrive! 😂
How about ordering it right now & sticking it in your toolbox?
Never thought of that did ya genius?
It's called 'preventative maintenance'.
I have turn signal bulbs, headlights & other shit sitting there so that when an emergency comes along you go to your toolbox & handle that shit instead of being in YOUR sorry shoes when the answer has been given to you.
Great ideas
Thanks 👍
Cut the screw near the head , wrap some PTFE tap round the screw and tighten it back into the hole , the tape will seal it until you can get the proper fitting and you still have water meantime .
Interesting tip
You can also cut out the hole and solder a joiner or use a compression fitting
Absolutely if you've got the access without tension on the pipe
No! I use a hose clamp and rubber band or electrical tape. I always have succeeded with zero leakage afterward. If available a slit piece of garden hose is best with a quality hose clamp....a $1 repair that can last for years but I usually solder in a new coupling in a week or two.
Will one of those patches work on a hole that was caused by that pipe freezing? It's more of a split rather than a hole. Thanks.
If the split falls within the area of the patch then yes
@@TheDIYGuy1 Thank you! I'm going to go buy some of these patches as soon as the store opens. I didn't know they existed (I'm not a plumber). It will make repair much easier and faster.
I just push in a bit of my wife's sponge pudding. It never leaks after that.
😂
mindsight - let's see twelve days is long enough for your wife to file divorce papers ,,,, So?
😂🤣😅
What is sponge pudding? Like she is absorbing all your income, or she happened to bake a sponge cake and put some awful figgy pudding all over that people pretend to eat, but they just plug leaky pipes and such? Well, which one is it mate?
😂😂
As a plumber I will probably find some of those patches for emergency repairs but I would advise against this being a permanent solution. Our goal is to keep the inside of the pipe as smooth as possible because turbulence deteriorates the pipe downstream of it. The patched hole is going to cause a lot of turbulence. It needs a coupling to repair it, I personally only use press or solder fittings on copper.
Each to their own and thanks for sharing your preferred method.
I use emery cloth to clean the pipes when needed.
When it comes to pinholes, the first thing you want to do is take a sharpie and mark exactly where the hole is. THEN turn off the water
Cover it with Magic Sculpt, epoxy resin. When dry it is as hard as concrete!
Nice one
Thanks 👍
What pressure can this take before popping off?
This would make an interesting test.
It would 👍
Since water pressure is about 60 psi and the hole is so tiny that would never be an issue, I think this would hold up to higher pressure that a standard coupling or elbow joint.
@@sarahdeshay1394 The size of the hole is irrelevant. The area inside the patch is relevant. Add in some pressure spikes from people quickly closing taps and some material fatique in the solder under tension... and you are in for a wet surprise! ;)
Brazing the whole is easier and more permanent.
Hope your videos entertaining I'm giving you a like and a comment just because you're Irish like me
Thanks for the support but I'm not Irish 😆
always made my own patch using a socket cut in half been doing this since the 80s
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If the second fix the pipe can’t move what can you do? Slip shark bite will work.
When the main shutoff valve doesn't shutoff completely, it's time for the stale bread trick when soldering.
Careful drilling into walls, a slow leak undetected will cost thousands of dollar worth of damages, not to mention mold problems and not cover by insurance. Plus you could be sued by the tenant below.
Thanks dad!
😆
Why wouldnt someone just drop a bead of solder on the hole?
Your second method works great if the copper pipe is moveable, correct?
Yes correct. Otherwise can be a little tricky but there are ways.
@@TheDIYGuy1 Indeed. Where there's a will . . . there're relatives. 🙂
Thanks for the video =)
Your welcome 👍
I wouldn't heat the patch directly. That could produce a cold solder joint on the pipe itself. I would heat the pipe first around the patch then the patch. But I would rather cut the pipe, make sure to get rid of the inside indent of the screw which would cause water turbulence and patch it with pipe and or a slip fitting.
"I'd like to give you all one"...now that didn't sound right! 😆
😆
Nice videos #khushvibes 👍
Thanks 👍
Good video, but i don't know if this is really much of an "emergency" repair, which suggests to me something the average homeowner could do at 4pm on Sunday without calling someone. The average homeowner won't have the part, the flame resistant cloth and in many cases, they torch.
One thing to note is that if there’s still water in the pipe then no amount of heat will solder that patch correctly as the water just sucks all that heat away.
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My apartment still has the original copper piping in it going to the hot water heater and you can see the lead Sauter on everything. They didn’t do a neat job of it.
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