sorry to hear that. I bought the real version of this 60A charge controllere and even that one can not reach the advertised input current. Now I have a 60A Renogy and have no problems.
I set d01 to 13.8 and d02 to 14.0 since the controller readings readings didn’t match neither my multimeter nor my inverter readings and with these settings, the controller is working properly up to this moment. I’m using two lithium 12v, 300A batteries connected in parallel.
Sorry to hear about the accident that damaged your equipment. Hope you get it all running again, Re the PowMR, I have only heard bad things about them. Thank you for confirming this.
they have bad mosfets, cheap ones, i have 1 unit that will not turn on, several mosfets are shorted, n o use repair, the drivers are bad also , now i avoid Powmr
If the charge controller doesn't display normally, it goes back immediately - if it can't see the power level it may not be able to trigger the cooling fan and it may not see the voltages correctly which can cause short life with any type of battery or possibly death to a lithium battery. The PowMr I have does NOT correctly measure the battery voltage. On a 12 volt system (AGM batteries), setting the float voltage to 13.6v shows 13.6 when you check the settings but the output is 13.5v on a calibrated meter - on a 48 volt system, that's an error of 0.4 volts.. You need a good meter to set the PowMr to your needed voltages. However, my PowMr did continue to work and respond to load changes. Be aware that the PowMr has a MakeSkyBlue controller as its ancestor and the older MSBs are known to simply "drop out" for unknown causes. They typically come back to full power if the solar input is disconnected for a few seconds and then reconnected. There's a video on UA-cam about it and a circuit for a monitor which disconnects the solar panels and then reconnects them as needed. I never add a charge controller directly into my system. First it's connected to a smaller battery of the proper voltage and the "solar" power is a 10 amp adjustable voltage power supply so I can see how the controller works as the "solar" input is increased. I also have an adjustable load on the battery so I can take the controller's load up to whatever maximum the power supply can provide. Your point about disconnecting EVERYTHING is a good one. Much better to spend 2 minutes protecting things than $200 replacing them - that works out to about $6000/hour.
Apparently there are 2 different versions of that type of charge controller.. a fake one and a real one. I can't remember the brand name of the real one but it's definitely not powMr.. Careful with epever products.. I've had a few go bad too. I'm just going to spend the money and try victron.. I'm sick of cheap shit ending up costing me what the expensive stuff would have
MakeSkyBlue and PowMR are the two brands. I can't see any difference, they update the firmware occasionally, but both brands claim the other is "fake". I have both, they both work but I've had 2 PowMR fail, one DOA (new), one on hookup to different solar panel set. Both times the display failed (was blank), but I think fail was in main board, not display/interface. The others seem to work great, haven't had any failures during actual operation. Have not tested the actual output, but I've had them putting out as much as 1200W on my 24V system. I use a total of 7 for different panel sets.
Hello again, I have a panel of 310 w, Luxor brand, and powmr 60 A. On a sunny day I only get 9 watts up to 22 watts, the voltage is at 38.7 V. What can be the problem of low watts? all new installation
few questions: 1. What is the panel Voc? 2. What is the voltage of your battery? 3. Did you check with the ammeter that the battery is not getting charged (like in my case it shows 0W but actually charging the battery) 4. Did you check settings (might floating/absorption) is lower than battery voltage
@@mohamedelkhamlichiregragui5917 well, I'd check with the clamp ammeter that the battery is not getting charged while the device displays 0W. Otherwise sounds like a faulty unit.
I had the same issue with it not displaying amps or wattage. I had connected pv neg directly to the battery bus before the charger. Once I fixed it to go directly, this information came back. Your connection via your bms probably caused a similar path to bypass the internal measurement shunt in the mppt charger. However today I think I broke my inverter due to this product on my lithium battery and so I went searching for its problems…
My PowMr working fine at 45A. The only problem I have is when at full charge, the controller jumping up the voltage and my inverter shutdown. This is dangerous to the batteries even with BMS
Im running 4 of these now The voltage reading is a bit off on them but they work well when set right In MPPT mode they will cause overshoots if set too high In float mode they regulate fairly well
Right off the metering wasn't working These controllers have the current shunt on the - side and switching on the + You were bypassing the controller through the relay and BMS on the - side completely defeating the MPPT function
@@SolarEngineering you still need a BMS but if you have a panel relay it needs to be mechanical and isolated I suspect you had a solid state relay and it bypassed to the control wires A normal relay would have worked fine just unhooking 1 wire
You should really carefully read the instructions in the manual. For 12v batteries max Capacity from Solar panels is 750 WATTS not 3000. Mine works just fine 1KW panels puts 6-7 Kilowatts into my 24v batteries every day the sun shines for the last year.. Set the charge voltage manually if your inverter beeps complaining of high voltage , I set mine to 14v. for my LA Marine batteries.
Over wattage use for 48v The maximum PV input power: (The total power rated of PV can’t be over this watt that will break the controller.) 12V system (720W) 24V system (1440W) 36V system (2100W) 48V system (2800W) Voc from PV( Make sure the Voc of PV meeting the requirement as right. Voc is 1.5 or 2 times than battery, then it’s best efficiency. ) PV Input Voltage must this range 12V system (DC20V~DC80V) 24V system (DC37V~DC105V) 36V system (DC50V~DC160V) 48V system (DC72V~DC160V) The maximum PV input voltage (Voc):DC190V (The controller can’t work at this voltage of long duration that will break controller. Please refer to Input voltage from PV.)
too late. I have already bought this solar controller. i should have watch youtube before buying lol. My system is less than 1.5kw power consumption. hopefully can last longer than 1 year before buying a new one. could you pls recomend reliable MPPT Charger or Pwm ?? thks
WARNING!!! I own one of these fake " Make Sky Blue " copy Mppt that do not have any bio's update flashed. The guy left the company and started up Pow Mr. and must of had a usb bio's ( very early version ) stolen before he send this product to a chinese warehouse for mass production. The unit's mppt function is ALL Over the place!!! These do work ( sort of ) and should be treated like a 40 amp DC booster charge controller. Always use double wires. Always have both solar and battery Positive on a breaker with the ability to flip a switch and disconnect to make rebooting easier when it has a fault. My Pow Mr runs at 119v and makes 2,200 watts nearly 40 amps at its best. The unit is very hot. I would NEVER push this light weight unit in 48 volt mode beyond that. I know its says 160 voc @ 2,800 watts at 61 amps max
black before red unless you wanna be dead... I am so sad for your loss... I iterate this to EVERYONE who wants to do ANYTHING with DC power! NOBODY ever seems to listen to this old addage.
Sorry , unfortunately the information is not enough to prove that this is not a 60Amp MPPT . we can see that PowMr products have been selling in market for many years and people really love it ,that is why they are here today . No display for the charging current and power on the LCD ? Sorry, where is the solar panel ? Well , you can not simply judge it when you didn’t connect the MPPT charge controller in a whole system ,how you connected the batteries is also a problem ,as for the temperature issue mentioned in the video , It doesn’t make sense to doubt the function and specification ,as It’s working in normal range and that is for sure ,we all know that .
I own one of these controllers. It does work, and the voltage indication is reasonably accurate when compared to my Fluke 77 multimeter, to about 0.1V accuracy, which is barely enough to charge a 4S 200AH LiFePO4 battery bank. HOWEVER, the current (ampere) reading is GROSSLY inaccurate, it over reads by at least 30%. I have proved this by measuring the actual current from the controller. As the maximum rated current by the manufacturer is 60A, I suspect the ACTUAL current to be around 40A. I have "rectified" the current readout by soldering a piece of copper wire of the appropriate gauge & length (by trial and error) in parallel with the existing current sensing copper shunt inside the controller. As a result of my findings about the maximum current handling, I would decrease the maximum connected solar panel wattage accordingly.
From the manual: Maximum Input Solar Power:
720W 20V-80V DC When12V;
1440W 37-105V DC When 24V;
2100W 50-160V DC When 36V;
2800W 72-160V DC When 48V
sorry to hear that. I bought the real version of this 60A charge controllere and even that one can not reach the advertised input current. Now I have a 60A Renogy and have no problems.
I set d01 to 13.8 and d02 to 14.0 since the controller readings readings didn’t match neither my multimeter nor my inverter readings and with these settings, the controller is working properly up to this moment. I’m using two lithium 12v, 300A batteries connected in parallel.
Thanks, that's good to know that PowMr products must be treated with suspicion when buying.
Sorry to hear about the accident that damaged your equipment. Hope you get it all running again, Re the PowMR, I have only heard bad things about them. Thank you for confirming this.
yeah, still feeling upset about it. thanks for the support.
These controller seems extremely hot!! Epever and victron are much more colds in the same conditions
they have bad mosfets, cheap ones, i have 1 unit that will not turn on, several mosfets are shorted, n o use repair, the drivers are bad also , now i avoid Powmr
If the charge controller doesn't display normally, it goes back immediately - if it can't see the power level it may not be able to trigger the cooling fan and it may not see the voltages correctly which can cause short life with any type of battery or possibly death to a lithium battery.
The PowMr I have does NOT correctly measure the battery voltage. On a 12 volt system (AGM batteries), setting the float voltage to 13.6v shows 13.6 when you check the settings but the output is 13.5v on a calibrated meter - on a 48 volt system, that's an error of 0.4 volts.. You need a good meter to set the PowMr to your needed voltages. However, my PowMr did continue to work and respond to load changes. Be aware that the PowMr has a MakeSkyBlue controller as its ancestor and the older MSBs are known to simply "drop out" for unknown causes. They typically come back to full power if the solar input is disconnected for a few seconds and then reconnected. There's a video on UA-cam about it and a circuit for a monitor which disconnects the solar panels and then reconnects them as needed.
I never add a charge controller directly into my system. First it's connected to a smaller battery of the proper voltage and the "solar" power is a 10 amp adjustable voltage power supply so I can see how the controller works as the "solar" input is increased. I also have an adjustable load on the battery so I can take the controller's load up to whatever maximum the power supply can provide.
Your point about disconnecting EVERYTHING is a good one. Much better to spend 2 minutes protecting things than $200 replacing them - that works out to about $6000/hour.
thanks for the information about PowMr and MSB, I'm not going to touch this charge controller :)
Please link the video you say explains this
Hi, where is the video for the circuit which disconnects and reconnects the PV input when the Makeskyblue software locks up in mode 7 (PWM)?
@@PVflying You'll have to sarch for it, as that laptop "walked off". No idea without my notes.
@@notyoung I think I found it thanks. “Makeskyblue 40A mppt controller auto reset I had to build” by UA-cam channel name “opera” 👍
Thanks for the video. Good info. I also appreciate you sharing your near miss or learning moment. We can learn from each other this way as well!
Glad it was helpful!
how about paralleling the panels to get the input voltage to a reasonable level.. That is a lot of voltage drop...
i am late.. bought 1 already 3 days ago, and my 400 watt solar panel only reach max 152watt... dont know whats the problem
Apparently there are 2 different versions of that type of charge controller.. a fake one and a real one.
I can't remember the brand name of the real one but it's definitely not powMr..
Careful with epever products.. I've had a few go bad too.
I'm just going to spend the money and try victron.. I'm sick of cheap shit ending up costing me what the expensive stuff would have
2nd is MakeSkyBlue.
I agree about spending $ once on a higher quality parts.
@@SolarEngineering that's the one.. 👍
Good luck
MakeSkyBlue and PowMR are the two brands. I can't see any difference, they update the firmware occasionally, but both brands claim the other is "fake". I have both, they both work but I've had 2 PowMR fail, one DOA (new), one on hookup to different solar panel set. Both times the display failed (was blank), but I think fail was in main board, not display/interface.
The others seem to work great, haven't had any failures during actual operation. Have not tested the actual output, but I've had them putting out as much as 1200W on my 24V system. I use a total of 7 for different panel sets.
I have same experiences as Lounge Lizard 🦎
@vets fiveten I just don't buy this stuff anymore mate..
You don't speak about the battery voltage, If your battery is full the regulator does not allow electricity to pass. It is here for that ...
My PowMR incorrectly displays amperage and wattage - about 1.5 times more than real values.
htere is any way to fix the charging current on that controller?
After a miswiring, mine won't start when only plugged to the battery.
Hello again, I have a panel of 310 w, Luxor brand, and powmr 60 A. On a sunny day I only get 9 watts up to 22 watts, the voltage is at 38.7 V. What can be the problem of low watts? all new installation
few questions:
1. What is the panel Voc?
2. What is the voltage of your battery?
3. Did you check with the ammeter that the battery is not getting charged (like in my case it shows 0W but actually charging the battery)
4. Did you check settings (might floating/absorption) is lower than battery voltage
@@SolarEngineering Voc : 36,07
2.Battery: Trickle charge: 13.6V - 13.8V. Maximum end-of-charge voltage: 14.6-14.8V
@@mohamedelkhamlichiregragui5917 well, I'd check with the clamp ammeter that the battery is not getting charged while the device displays 0W.
Otherwise sounds like a faulty unit.
What is the battery size? how many Ah and chemistry?
I had the same issue with it not displaying amps or wattage. I had connected pv neg directly to the battery bus before the charger. Once I fixed it to go directly, this information came back.
Your connection via your bms probably caused a similar path to bypass the internal measurement shunt in the mppt charger.
However today I think I broke my inverter due to this product on my lithium battery and so I went searching for its problems…
interesting, thank you for the info.
Lots of knowledge here👍
Glad to hear that
I think because the green connector needs to be replaced for a bit one so you can hook a cables more thick for more amper
My PowMr working fine at 45A. The only problem I have is when at full charge, the controller jumping up the voltage and my inverter shutdown. This is dangerous to the batteries even with BMS
I have the same issue...have you find out any way to avoid It? Perhaps modifying the charging voltages
Im running 4 of these now
The voltage reading is a bit off on them but they work well when set right
In MPPT mode they will cause overshoots if set too high
In float mode they regulate fairly well
Isnt it they make voltage higher to push high current into batteries? Do you have good(thick) cable connected to your batteries?
Right off the metering wasn't working
These controllers have the current shunt on the - side and switching on the +
You were bypassing the controller through the relay and BMS on the - side completely defeating the MPPT function
didn't get it, do you mean this charge controller needs to be connected to battery avoiding BMS?
@@SolarEngineering no the solar side and battery side must be isolated from each other
Your panel relay wasn't isolated and bypassed the controller
@@stevehanely9446 how then cells are going to be protected in battery pack if charger going strait to pack without BMS?
@@SolarEngineering you still need a BMS but if you have a panel relay it needs to be mechanical and isolated
I suspect you had a solid state relay and it bypassed to the control wires
A normal relay would have worked fine just unhooking 1 wire
Do you have a test for the MakeSkyBlue mppt charger too?
Why is the max amp test video become private?
re-uploading, found one issue there. will be live in ~1 hour.
You should really carefully read the instructions in the manual. For 12v batteries max Capacity from Solar panels is 750 WATTS not 3000. Mine works just fine 1KW panels puts 6-7 Kilowatts into my 24v batteries every day the sun shines for the last year.. Set the charge voltage manually if your inverter beeps complaining of high voltage , I set mine to 14v. for my LA Marine batteries.
it was connected to 48V battery bank.
On your 24 volt system with 1000 watts of panels you're only pushing the system to about 42 amps Max and the video creator was trying for 60 amps
Over wattage use for 48v
The maximum PV input power:
(The total power rated of PV can’t be over this watt that will break the controller.)
12V system (720W)
24V system (1440W)
36V system (2100W)
48V system (2800W)
Voc from PV( Make sure the Voc of PV meeting the requirement as right. Voc is 1.5 or 2 times than battery, then it’s best efficiency. )
PV Input Voltage must this range
12V system (DC20V~DC80V)
24V system (DC37V~DC105V)
36V system (DC50V~DC160V)
48V system (DC72V~DC160V)
The maximum PV input voltage (Voc):DC190V (The controller can’t work at this voltage of long duration that will break controller. Please refer to Input voltage from PV.)
Looks Powmr haw many issues
too late. I have already bought this solar controller. i should have watch youtube before buying lol. My system is less than 1.5kw power consumption. hopefully can last longer than 1 year before buying a new one. could you pls recomend reliable MPPT Charger or Pwm ?? thks
Any update?
Fire extinguisher at the ready 😂
2.8Kw is the max at 48v for this controller.
WARNING - sparks, smoke, flames then explosion
I have 4 of them and they work great and I also have a classic 150
good to hear.
Is it possible to oversize the regulator 110-120%?
do you mean charge controller?
@@SolarEngineering yes, controler. PV 820W to 12V battery
@@Karlosr6 I wouldn't do it. 820W will push this device over limit.
Ok thanks
WARNING!!!
I own one of these fake " Make Sky Blue " copy Mppt that do not have any bio's update flashed.
The guy left the company and started up Pow Mr. and must of had a usb bio's ( very early version ) stolen before he send this product to a chinese warehouse for mass production. The unit's mppt function is ALL Over the place!!!
These do work ( sort of ) and should be treated like a 40 amp DC booster charge controller.
Always use double wires. Always have both solar and battery Positive on a breaker with the ability to flip a switch and disconnect to make rebooting easier when it has a fault.
My Pow Mr runs at 119v and makes 2,200 watts nearly 40 amps at its best. The unit is very hot.
I would NEVER push this light weight unit in 48 volt mode beyond that.
I know its says 160 voc @ 2,800 watts at 61 amps max
black before red unless you wanna be dead... I am so sad for your loss... I iterate this to EVERYONE who wants to do ANYTHING with DC power! NOBODY ever seems to listen to this old addage.
thanks for advice.
Sorry , unfortunately the information is not enough to prove that this is not a 60Amp MPPT . we can see that PowMr products have been selling in market for many years and people really love it ,that is why they are here today .
No display for the charging current and power on the LCD ? Sorry, where is the solar panel ? Well , you can not simply judge it when you didn’t connect the MPPT charge controller in a whole system ,how you connected the batteries is also a problem ,as for the temperature issue mentioned in the video , It doesn’t make sense to doubt the function and specification ,as It’s working in normal range and that is for sure ,we all know that .
yeah, you are right - "we all know that"
feel free to provide a charge controller and I'll repeat test.
I own one of these controllers. It does work, and the voltage indication is reasonably accurate when compared to my Fluke 77 multimeter, to about 0.1V accuracy, which is barely enough to charge a 4S 200AH LiFePO4 battery bank. HOWEVER, the current (ampere) reading is GROSSLY inaccurate, it over reads by at least 30%. I have proved this by measuring the actual current from the controller. As the maximum rated current by the manufacturer is 60A, I suspect the ACTUAL current to be around 40A. I have "rectified" the current readout by soldering a piece of copper wire of the appropriate gauge & length (by trial and error) in parallel with the existing current sensing copper shunt inside the controller. As a result of my findings about the maximum current handling, I would decrease the maximum connected solar panel wattage accordingly.
@@androidboxhome586 yes, it over reading the current. Dose ur PowMr at fully charge jump up the voltage?
of course, it will fail, maximum output for said controller is 2.8 kw.
the logo on your Powmr looks wrong. im guessing its a fake. it should be displaying the watts too, this unit looks was DOA
might be, It was 2nd charge controller. 1st had similar issues.
rated current is 40A, not 60A
its fake its only max 40 amps both of the companies lie
yeah, looks like that
Ахаха. Какой чисто русский английский 😁👍
С первых секунд понятно стало откуда автор :)
Yes 👍 🔌 ⚡💡
Your batteries are fully charged is my guess.
it wasn't
Rule N°1 : Chinese advertising ALWAYS LIES !
Your pv input is too high
Only victron ist the best
Down with Victron
Ты же русский. Зачем на инглише базаришь, Бро?
Pwm not mppt