So glad I found your video, cause I was having the same issues was driving me nuts. However, when I changed the c-number to the actual battery voltage it stayed in mppt mode,,,,Hopfully that did the trick,time will tell.
I have one of the old ones. It switches off charging when the controller reaches 75 degrees C. Then after it starts charging again. Im currently running on a 24v 200amp battery. Running 1800watt panels. Read out is 1.5kw and actual amp reading is 50amps. This is a very tuff controller. Its just works. I am very happy with my unit. Have it for almost a year now.
Lol, had the same issues till I read the manual buddy. The C is a battery calibration function that allows you corre t the battery voltage if it's significantly off from the actual value
I have had one of the metal housing units for over 4 years now. Works great. Ordered another one for some additional panels I'm putting on my house. Only 2 250 watt panels on a 12 volt agm setup. It has very strange behavior compared to the old one. Acts a lot like this new unit you are showing. Goes to 7.0 almost immediately. Doesn't drop back to 4.0, no matter how low the batteries get. Got a replacement, does exactly the same thing, except the replacement battery volt reading is WAY off. Quite disappointed. I wish the new ones would work like the old one. I was going to try this new one you are showing in this video, but I've ordered a Tracer 4215bn after seeing some of your other videos. Hope it works out.
Experience with the older PowMr units was that they seem to work ok but 2 recent metal ones, both sent back, do the same as the newer model that you have. The system they were used on logs a battery voltage, charge current and solar voltage by the minute and, even with depleted batteries, spends most of the day holding the panels near battery voltage despite them having a Vmp of 30v. Now swapped for Makeskyblue with v118 firmware which seem to track flawlessly for about the same price but getting almost twice the power over a day.
you have to put a high consumption for it to reach 700 to 800 watts of panels when it enters 8.0 mode it lowers the voltage of the panels and the battery stays at 13.8 in float mode
The latest version of the newer type of 60 amp controller now has several choices for the lithium battery depending on how many cells are in the battery. I am still learning on this.
Saw the powMr 60a was on sale at the same price of my OneSolar 40a. Went here to see if its worth it. Most reviews are crap so i really enjoyed you testing it at 60a and seeing it failing. I notised people warn of me mode 7 in other reviews in the comments. Please give an update if you fixed it with a cheap 80*80*10mm box fan or what happend. Btw if you need a cheap good controller with awesome display, try the yellow "One Solar" i really love it. I run my 40a one solar mppt costing 75$ at up to 44a its quite solid. Even have graphs for days of amps and wats. Charging my 12v lfp at over 600watt on sunny days. I connected 3*450watt lvtopsun panels. 148,5voc(49,5*3) . Max voc is 150. Did add a 12v pc boxfan to help as im in a hot clima.
I attached an heatsink to my ProMr to help with the cooling. That seems to help the cooling. Honestly though I also have a Makeskyblue both are side by side, the Makeskyblue far more efficient.
@@MobeEvents I don't believe these MPPT charge controllers go that far to be honest. Have you tried a buck boots controller? You see most charge controller was built with specifications of led acid batteries as led acid batteries have been around for well over a hundred years. Lithium batteries are new technology.
@@howardescoffery4950the product mention it can work with lith battery there is also a setting for lith but at 12v. So i see where another youtube user online config his settings under USER mode battery type but that was only for a 12v system. The issue i have is the interface only allow max boost to 18v
@@MobeEvents becare the interface display the value for 12V . you have to do the maths if your batterie is 24v. this decice is crap, they can not even display the rigth numbers and let you do the math
The C-value is for voltage calibration, used to set the correct voltage value of battery reading displayed on the screen. I'm using same powmr pro unit, the unit seems to have issue with the 7 mode, where it enters pwm mode and stay stucked.
That makes sense! Didn't help my troubleshooting but is nice it had the feature. Now if only the charge controller didn't require arctic temps to operate as designed ;). Thank you!
I got two of these controllers one has been running perfectly fine for the last 7 months or so on a small lead acid battery bank no issues at all. The other one with all the settings done for a small lithium iron phosphate battery bank only worked for a couple weeks it would not stop charging the batteries no matter what settings i used. I tried it out on the small lead acid batteries and it wasn't working with them either it just kept charging to over 15 volts new version is much worse than the older version. I have four of the older ones two have been working for 6+ years with only the fans going out easy to fix though the other two have been going for four years so far .
After further testing mine, It appears this inverter is really only a 30amps MPPT then it becomes PWM over 30amps. Anything over 30amps going to battery, it drops the charging voltage (behaving like a PWM and doesn't do buck convertion) and goes from MPPT mode 4 to Absorption mode 7. My battery capacity was very low but it was only charging in absorption mode 7 because I had over 30amps. Immediately I removed some panels and reset the solar input, it went back to MPPT mode 4 and stayed in MPPT till it was near full
Good day boss, I have 2x180 12v solar panels connected in parallel to produce 360w at 12. With my pwm 30A charge controller I could only get 12 to 14 A max so I changed to mppt powmr 60A, I can only get 190w at 13.5v max I guess 14.4 A currently. My cable size is 2x10AWG blue black cable. My location is Africa Nigeria, what could be the problem?, cos my 160 watt panel produced 156 watts about 11A . Please advice
I have the old mppt powmr 60a mppt controller . Had for 5 years and it's great , only thing I've never been able to do is get it to automatically switch off the load when say sun goes behind cloud so load to much and battery voltage drops to low. What do you think best way to automate this? Thankyou for sharing. I have 2 X 420w pannels in series and in direct sun I get 60a at 12v out :) happy bunny
I have the newer 80amp one with fans and it was working fine all day then at like 3 it stopped producing wattage and amps it was showing 90v coming in but no watts coming in nothing going out. I have 48v system with only 2400w
For the people who think this is cheap stuff there are literally only five producers in the world of this electronic equipment. They all just stamp their day and time is the same with the damn batteries you buy if you buy a lead acid batteries, they’re coming out of one of two factories in the world that is it. It is a question of quality control, not cheapness.
@BillGorman have you seen the PowMr HHJ60-PRO already? This one is supposed to be the real successor for the older model mentioned in this video. It is also capable of multi-charger single-battery setup via rs485 lines if i got it right. I would be curious if you could compare these two.
I know people like to buy this cheap (not necessary cheap price!) stuff but before you do read the manual. See what it can't do first. For lead acid charging, where's the absorption cut off time? Where's the tail current setting? Where's the equalisation voltage? Where's the equalisation interval? Where's the equalisation time? Similar questions can be asked for LiFePO4, LTO and NMC batteries. If the charger doesn't even have those basic settings, skip it. You won't be doing you battery any favours, regardless of chemistry or specific type, if you use a charger that doesn't even have those basic settings available either via the integrated front panel or an external display or a computer or smartphone.
I have 2 350w pannels connected to this old controller in paralell and want to add 2 more 250w pannels in series , both sets in paralell to controller , do you think controller will be ok with this?
See if you can get the ampinvt controllers from a supplier. I really like it for the cheap end. You can play with my 40A version if you want to try it.
I’ll make it a point to look at the video you no doubt have on it. I ordered more of the old style but hadn’t circled back around to what I’ll do in the future!
I did it, ordered a 60amp to play with. I watched some of that video but apparently didn’t get far enough to consider purchasing it last time. I do like the ability to change charge current and set the battery voltage!
Dear friend any voltage above 13.5V for 4S Lifepo4 is considered entering the End of Charge phase so its normal to display 7.0 (battery current is still high as I see). At 14V battery charging current should drop significantly (below 10A) and at 14.8V controller should STOP charging the battery. Did you let is do a complete battery charge ?
Привіт! Маю у наявності 2 powmr один підключений до панелей на 90в другий на 120в, заряджають спільний один акумулятор. Питання чи можна кріпити 2 контролера на металеву пластину?
It apparently shuts the small battery to 14.4V reading (it can barely be seen climbing by low screen update resolution), then droops to PWM to lower the current. I wonder how it behaves on a stiff, high capacity battery array. I suspect an algorithm feature, or a bug. Ordered one, will arrive end of December. Anyway, this PWM mode seems to cause the issue.
It would appear that the new charge controller is not ready for use and the problem lays with its inability to dissipate heat effectively. It is certainly not an upgrade from the previous model with active cooling.
I'm guessing it's overheating because your input power is exceeding the maximum. and I think it cuts off the power and voltage. Since the total power exceeds 720W, it may not work properly, it would be good to check the 24V battery. Just guesses! Max. Input Power: For 12V system ：720W 20-80Vdc; For 24V system ：1440W 37-105Vdc; For 36V system ：2100W 50-160Vdc; For 48V system ：2800W 72-160Vdc. @@BeeneEnergy
At 9:45 when you turn on the PV input... I saw around 650watts briefly. Do you have two solar panels with high VOC in series? The manual I saw online says VOC from PV for a 12v system is 20V to 80V. Two panels with open circuit voltage around 40v connected in series would quickly max the controller causing it to get hot 🔥 and behave the way you showed in the video. That is my suspicion?
Thats recommended for best effeciency. It should be able to use the full range. I use 148,5voc on my "one solar 40a mppt" at 12v, and i hit as high as 630watt. Its capped at 44a it seems. It has a max voc input of 150. I use a 12v 250ah lfp. My mppt recommends 18-60v for 12v
UPDATE: I ordered the same charge controller and he is very right. The default charge setting is drops charging my lifepo4 from mode 4.0 to mode 7.0 very quickly even though my battery capacity was low. I had to use the USE mode and adjust the setting to 14.6 then 14.4 then 11.0. That keeps it in MPPT mode longer.
@@realToby 14.6 then 14.4 then 11.0 will cause your battery to go flat. 11.0 is when the charging comes back on. If you have a battery with a bms connected to it you can then trust the bms to take care of the charging.
Any one have user guide for these type scc. I have same controler looks like this video. I download from pow mr site. And meny pdf files. But it different. Battery type display "lit' on controler. But user guide havent "lit" it has L8 L16 L4 L15 only for lifepo4 battery. Any one have correct pdf for these type controler? Or any way to flash onother firmware?
I purhased one of these PowMr 60 amp controllers and as soon as the batteries reach something close to full the charger voltage continues to rise until the lithium batteries bms switches the
SAME HERE; LOTS OF PEOPLE ON THE NET WITH THE SAME PROBLEM; THE POWMR IS NO GOOD, IT DOES NOT WORK, DOES NOT DO WHAT YOU PROGRAM!!! AMAZING THAT THEY SELL THAT JUNK TO PEOPLE!!
I gave up, I designing my own charge controller, the Mr power are not good enough, they will not last long, not enough decoupling caps, they should be running warm not hot with fans.
Can i use 800 w 12v panels on the 60A charge controller? Since the controller is 95 percent efficient, and the fact that the panels are not 100 percent efficient.
I have a theory as to what was happening The battery was pulling up to 14.5 causing the controller to swap into mode 7 A larger battery bank or less panels would have gotten better results
I did a lot of probing to see why the voltage was so high. It wasn’t from the battery, voltage there was in the 13’s. There must be high resistance inside the controller somewhere.
@@BeeneEnergyYou exceeded the allowed solar input power; read the silver sticker on top of the device that states 720Wmax for a 12V system. As soon as it detects the battery voltage to peak at the "float voltage" level it will switch to mode 7 and not come back on its own, now matter how low the battery voltage gets. To avoid this use a battery with lower internal resistance or a higher battery voltage thus decreasing the currents. I use 8 lead acid batteries in a 4S2P configuration and when the batteries were newer last year, I rarely had the "mode 7 problem", now after heavy use for a year the batteries have aged and especially on partly cloudy days with colder panels and sudden sunshine surges the power enough to momentarily raise the battery voltage, even when the battery is far from fully charged. It's certainly a design flaw that could be mitigated by a few lines of code and a firmware update..
I have a PowMr 60 for about a year. I have yet to figure out all of the instructions. The startup screen lists watts and volts??? The instructions says I should be seeing watts and amps??? The instructions are woefully lacking. Anyone who can point me in a better direction?
The c stands for calibration it should be set to the actual battery voltage. Im haveing the opposite problem with mine i have a 109 amp hour lead acid. I have 2 24v 200w panels wired in parallel and it stays in mode 7 and wont switch to mode 8 its been in 7 for a day now i have no load on the battery edit: finaly switched to mode 8
Good day sir, pls help, I have that powmr 60a but if I select lifepo4 in bat select it will not charge, but if I select USER it will,, pls help me, my bat is sinopoly 90ah lifepo4
Makeskyblue is a little better than Power Mr, i use them both, and there is another similar to power Mr it's called HomySun the cheapest version of all 3
Interesting, hadn't heard of the third brand. I think they missed an opportunity to call it HornySun. Just think of all the people up in arms giving free advertisement.
Looks like the terminals might be larger on the HomySun one. It's very possible it's different electronics too. This case is used for lots of power supplies and apparently charge controllers. So maybe it's just multiple manufacturers using a similar case for their things! Just contemplating.
@@BeeneEnergy ... I bought 2 of the HomySun 60A and so far so good, one negative is , the display does not show watts, only amps and voltages. And their fan is blowing inwards not outwards like pwrMr or Makeskyblue.
It will be easier to describe the problem: PowMR 6.2 KW inverter The installation of photovoltaic panels is 3.6 KW, the inverter is not connected to the battery and is not connected to the grid. I have a 2 KW water heater connected to the inverter output. The inverter will not turn on the heater even in full sunlight. If I turn on a 500-watt receiver instead of a heater, the inverter produces electricity. How to set the inverter to provide current all the time regardless of the load, I want it to provide as much current as is currently in production and not to turn off when I turn on a larger load. Photovoltaic installation: 225Wx16=3600W 36.9Vx16=295.2V Inverter Settings ua-cam.com/video/l9n7lgL5nu4/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
plastic box no fan , fire ! , I have the very old metal one , cant program for Lithium because voltage spikes, did not know they made a newer metal one, just looking for something that's works , not the most high cost thing.
Since it doesn't throttle... when that fan goes you might have a fire, you will have smoke genies at the least and the whole thing will be dead. I'll pass. Thanks for the info.
Thankfully it does have over temp protection so while not ideal to have a fan it’ll shut off if it gets too hot. Aka fan dies which you are correct is inevitable.
@@BeeneEnergy Thanks that is good to know. I might look into it more closely now. I'm liking the EPever though I ordered a 30a full kit the little separate screen, temp sensor, computer link cable all for $95 including shipping from Aliexpress a few days ago. The 30a is a little smaller than the 60 you showed, but looks about the same. I'd say it is 50% smaller.
The button controls on this POS are NFG! Still no charge, can't select battery type. The Bat led do not flash only lets me change the 03H to 24H setting. Chinese instructions are garbage.
1:31 Everyone that knows anything about electricity knows that the ‘standard’ rating for 10ga is 30A. Not exactly feeling confidence with this reviewer.
Sounds like its time to change to a better controller and stay away from them cheap one's... It could destroy the rest of our system u shouldn't have too sit and watch it and check it u should set and forget.....
@BeeneEnergy it's mostly for safety so free strands of wire won't be sticking out of the terminals. It will also crimp under the screw and prevent pulling out. The best thing to use would be a machined terminal like they use in car audio but you are increasing price higher than you'd increase efficiency. Saying that, I use ferrules with heat shrink skirts and I tin them with solder then use a hex crimper. I'm sure there is a better way I haven't thought of but the ferrule is smaller diameter shank with almost like a funnel inside for larger gauge wire.
So glad I found your video, cause I was having the same issues was driving me nuts. However, when I changed the c-number to the actual battery voltage it stayed in mppt mode,,,,Hopfully that did the trick,time will tell.
I have one of the old ones. It switches off charging when the controller reaches 75 degrees C. Then after it starts charging again. Im currently running on a 24v 200amp battery. Running 1800watt panels. Read out is 1.5kw and actual amp reading is 50amps. This is a very tuff controller. Its just works. I am very happy with my unit. Have it for almost a year now.
Lol, had the same issues till I read the manual buddy. The C is a battery calibration function that allows you corre t the battery voltage if it's significantly off from the actual value
I have had one of the metal housing units for over 4 years now. Works great. Ordered another one for some additional panels I'm putting on my house. Only 2 250 watt panels on a 12 volt agm setup. It has very strange behavior compared to the old one. Acts a lot like this new unit you are showing. Goes to 7.0 almost immediately. Doesn't drop back to 4.0, no matter how low the batteries get. Got a replacement, does exactly the same thing, except the replacement battery volt reading is WAY off. Quite disappointed. I wish the new ones would work like the old one. I was going to try this new one you are showing in this video, but I've ordered a Tracer 4215bn after seeing some of your other videos. Hope it works out.
Powmr new one using new chip that crap. I have one laying under my bed😂
Experience with the older PowMr units was that they seem to work ok but 2 recent metal ones, both sent back, do the same as the newer model that you have. The system they were used on logs a battery voltage, charge current and solar voltage by the minute and, even with depleted batteries, spends most of the day holding the panels near battery voltage despite them having a Vmp of 30v. Now swapped for Makeskyblue with v118 firmware which seem to track flawlessly for about the same price but getting almost twice the power over a day.
Wow and you’re not alone in that experience! I’ve purchased another batch so I’ll be testing this to make sure they are ok. Thank you for sharing!
@@BeeneEnergy You are not alone (lol)
you have to put a high consumption for it to reach 700 to 800 watts of panels when it enters 8.0 mode it lowers the voltage of the panels and the battery stays at 13.8 in float mode
The latest version of the newer type of 60 amp controller now has several choices for the lithium battery depending on how many cells are in the battery.
I am still learning on this.
Saw the powMr 60a was on sale at the same price of my OneSolar 40a. Went here to see if its worth it. Most reviews are crap so i really enjoyed you testing it at 60a and seeing it failing. I notised people warn of me mode 7 in other reviews in the comments. Please give an update if you fixed it with a cheap 80*80*10mm box fan or what happend.
Btw if you need a cheap good controller with awesome display, try the yellow "One Solar" i really love it. I run my 40a one solar mppt costing 75$ at up to 44a its quite solid. Even have graphs for days of amps and wats. Charging my 12v lfp at over 600watt on sunny days. I connected 3*450watt lvtopsun panels. 148,5voc(49,5*3) . Max voc is 150.
Did add a 12v pc boxfan to help as im in a hot clima.
Здравствуйте. Пожалуйста, поделитесь ссылкой, где вы покупали OneSolar? Спасибо.
I attached an heatsink to my ProMr to help with the cooling. That seems to help the cooling. Honestly though I also have a Makeskyblue both are side by side, the Makeskyblue far more efficient.
I purchase one of these controllers and trying to make work with a 24v lithium battery but i cant change the boost voltage about 18v
@@MobeEvents I don't believe these MPPT charge controllers go that far to be honest. Have you tried a buck boots controller? You see most charge controller was built with specifications of led acid batteries as led acid batteries have been around for well over a hundred years. Lithium batteries are new technology.
@@howardescoffery4950the product mention it can work with lith battery there is also a setting for lith but at 12v. So i see where another youtube user online config his settings under USER mode battery type but that was only for a 12v system. The issue i have is the interface only allow max boost to 18v
@@MobeEvents becare the interface display the value for 12V . you have to do the maths if your batterie is 24v. this decice is crap, they can not even display the rigth numbers and let you do the math
The C-value is for voltage calibration, used to set the correct voltage value of battery reading displayed on the screen.
I'm using same powmr pro unit, the unit seems to have issue with the 7 mode, where it enters pwm mode and stay stucked.
That makes sense! Didn't help my troubleshooting but is nice it had the feature. Now if only the charge controller didn't require arctic temps to operate as designed ;). Thank you!
Is this an mppt or pwm controller? I was just about to order one but if its pwm I can get one for 1/7 the price
@@dantronics1682MPPT
I got two of these controllers one has been running perfectly fine for the last 7 months or so on a small lead acid battery bank no issues at all. The other one with all the settings done for a small lithium iron phosphate battery bank only worked for a couple weeks it would not stop charging the batteries no matter what settings i used. I tried it out on the small lead acid batteries and it wasn't working with them either it just kept charging to over 15 volts new version is much worse than the older version. I have four of the older ones two have been working for 6+ years with only the fans going out easy to fix though the other two have been going for four years so far .
After further testing mine, It appears this inverter is really only a 30amps MPPT then it becomes PWM over 30amps. Anything over 30amps going to battery, it drops the charging voltage (behaving like a PWM and doesn't do buck convertion) and goes from MPPT mode 4 to Absorption mode 7. My battery capacity was very low but it was only charging in absorption mode 7 because I had over 30amps. Immediately I removed some panels and reset the solar input, it went back to MPPT mode 4 and stayed in MPPT till it was near full
Interesting ...
Good day boss, I have 2x180 12v solar panels connected in parallel to produce 360w at 12. With my pwm 30A charge controller I could only get 12 to 14 A max so I changed to mppt powmr 60A, I can only get 190w at 13.5v max I guess 14.4 A currently. My cable size is 2x10AWG blue black cable. My location is Africa Nigeria, what could be the problem?, cos my 160 watt panel produced 156 watts about 11A . Please advice
I also don't put switches on my tiny setup, cause mines tiny. I set up my 3x 30W pannels in series once and found out 60v 2a DC can sting a bit.
nvm i see you have them on the pannel side at least.
I have the old mppt powmr 60a mppt controller . Had for 5 years and it's great , only thing I've never been able to do is get it to automatically switch off the load when say sun goes behind cloud so load to much and battery voltage drops to low. What do you think best way to automate this? Thankyou for sharing. I have 2 X 420w pannels in series and in direct sun I get 60a at 12v out :) happy bunny
I have the newer 80amp one with fans and it was working fine all day then at like 3 it stopped producing wattage and amps it was showing 90v coming in but no watts coming in nothing going out. I have 48v system with only 2400w
For the people who think this is cheap stuff there are literally only five producers in the world of this electronic equipment. They all just stamp their day and time is the same with the damn batteries you buy if you buy a lead acid batteries, they’re coming out of one of two factories in the world that is it. It is a question of quality control, not cheapness.
I know you've tried other Charge Controllers since this vid was uploaded. Do you still like the PowMr Mppt Controllers?
@BillGorman have you seen the PowMr HHJ60-PRO already? This one is supposed to be the real successor for the older model mentioned in this video. It is also capable of multi-charger single-battery setup via rs485 lines if i got it right. I would be curious if you could compare these two.
I've seen it but haven't used it. It at least advertises a bladeless fan so they aren't trying to run fanless.
I know people like to buy this cheap (not necessary cheap price!) stuff but before you do read the manual. See what it can't do first. For lead acid charging, where's the absorption cut off time? Where's the tail current setting? Where's the equalisation voltage? Where's the equalisation interval? Where's the equalisation time? Similar questions can be asked for LiFePO4, LTO and NMC batteries. If the charger doesn't even have those basic settings, skip it. You won't be doing you battery any favours, regardless of chemistry or specific type, if you use a charger that doesn't even have those basic settings available either via the integrated front panel or an external display or a computer or smartphone.
I have 2 350w pannels connected to this old controller in paralell and want to add 2 more 250w pannels in series , both sets in paralell to controller , do you think controller will be ok with this?
See if you can get the ampinvt controllers from a supplier. I really like it for the cheap end. You can play with my 40A version if you want to try it.
I’ll make it a point to look at the video you no doubt have on it. I ordered more of the old style but hadn’t circled back around to what I’ll do in the future!
I did it, ordered a 60amp to play with. I watched some of that video but apparently didn’t get far enough to consider purchasing it last time. I do like the ability to change charge current and set the battery voltage!
@@BeeneEnergy sweet! Interested in your review of it.
Please how can you enter equalization mode with this charge controller
Neither of these controllers have an equalization mode as far as I know.
Dear friend any voltage above 13.5V for 4S Lifepo4 is considered entering the End of Charge phase so its normal to display 7.0 (battery current is still high as I see). At 14V battery charging current should drop significantly (below 10A) and at 14.8V controller should STOP charging the battery. Did you let is do a complete battery charge ?
How do you know when the batteries are fully charge on the Powr,and know when your home is getting straight energy from the solar panels?
Hello sir. The old powmr with fan and the new one without fan but with heatsink, which one is better please? And more efficient
Привіт! Маю у наявності 2 powmr один підключений до панелей на 90в другий на 120в, заряджають спільний один акумулятор. Питання чи можна кріпити 2 контролера на металеву пластину?
It apparently shuts the small battery to 14.4V reading (it can barely be seen climbing by low screen update resolution), then droops to PWM to lower the current. I wonder how it behaves on a stiff, high capacity battery array. I suspect an algorithm feature, or a bug. Ordered one, will arrive end of December. Anyway, this PWM mode seems to cause the issue.
Anoy word on it I just recently ordered the 20 amp one
Is this an mmpt controller or a pwm controller? I saw a vidoe of the old one opened and that definitely had a buck converter built in
Did you diskonnekt the battery from the Kontroller to reset it.
The charge controller is probably limiting the wattage because of the 12 v battery.
See what it does with a 24v setup.
It would appear that the new charge controller is not ready for use and the problem lays with its inability to dissipate heat effectively. It is certainly not an upgrade from the previous model with active cooling.
You might need to place a load on the battery to get the current flow to go up.
I read the manual on Mine and it worked just fine. It’s just not set up right bro.
Glad it worked for you. Mine overheated way too easily.
I'm guessing it's overheating because your input power is exceeding the maximum. and I think it cuts off the power and voltage. Since the total power exceeds 720W, it may not work properly, it would be good to check the 24V battery. Just guesses!
Max. Input Power:
For 12V system ：720W 20-80Vdc;
For 24V system ：1440W 37-105Vdc;
For 36V system ：2100W 50-160Vdc;
For 48V system ：2800W 72-160Vdc.
@@BeeneEnergy
How do I manually Equalize Lead acid Batteries with the M60 Pro
At 9:45 when you turn on the PV input... I saw around 650watts briefly. Do you have two solar panels with high VOC in series? The manual I saw online says VOC from PV for a 12v system is 20V to 80V. Two panels with open circuit voltage around 40v connected in series would quickly max the controller causing it to get hot 🔥 and behave the way you showed in the video. That is my suspicion?
Thats recommended for best effeciency. It should be able to use the full range. I use 148,5voc on my "one solar 40a mppt" at 12v, and i hit as high as 630watt. Its capped at 44a it seems. It has a max voc input of 150. I use a 12v 250ah lfp. My mppt recommends 18-60v for 12v
UPDATE: I ordered the same charge controller and he is very right. The default charge setting is drops charging my lifepo4 from mode 4.0 to mode 7.0 very quickly even though my battery capacity was low. I had to use the USE mode and adjust the setting to 14.6 then 14.4 then 11.0. That keeps it in MPPT mode longer.
@@realToby 14.6 then 14.4 then 11.0 will cause your battery to go flat. 11.0 is when the charging comes back on. If you have a battery with a bms connected to it you can then trust the bms to take care of the charging.
for this exact same charge controller, 2 550w panels should i put them in parallel or series.?
I think you found the issue, where is the fan? Where is the heat sink? Does it weight like the epever?
Nope, while it does have a heat sink it’s much lighter! Thing is only 1/3rd the size of a 60a epever.
Have you tried their newer hybrid inverters? They have a 10kw one on Amazon for $1,600 that I'm interested in.
Haven’t seen the ones that inexpensive. Tried the Megarevo but have gotten frustrated with the software. Can’t get it to operate the way I want.
How much amp it can handle of dc load from dc terminal
καλησπερα, πως μπορω να το ρυθμησω να μην ξεπερναει το 14.4 volt στην φορτηση τις παταριας, για το λογο που την φορτηζει ψηλα χωρις να διακοπτετε
can you explain what is absorption mode?
Saya rasa mode berganti saat Voltase yg masuk di 40v, sehingga mode berubah jadi 7.0
Any one have user guide for these type scc. I have same controler looks like this video. I download from pow mr site. And meny pdf files. But it different. Battery type display "lit' on controler. But user guide havent "lit" it has L8 L16 L4 L15 only for lifepo4 battery.
Any one have correct pdf for these type controler?
Or any way to flash onother firmware?
I purhased one of these PowMr 60 amp controllers and as soon as the batteries reach something close to full the charger voltage continues to rise until the lithium batteries bms switches the
SAME HERE; LOTS OF PEOPLE ON THE NET WITH THE SAME PROBLEM;
THE POWMR IS NO GOOD, IT DOES NOT WORK, DOES NOT DO WHAT YOU PROGRAM!!!
AMAZING THAT THEY SELL THAT JUNK TO PEOPLE!!
I gave up, I designing my own charge controller, the Mr power are not good enough, they will not last long, not enough decoupling caps, they should be running warm not hot with fans.
Can i use 800 w 12v panels on the 60A charge controller? Since the controller is 95 percent efficient, and the fact that the panels are not 100 percent efficient.
I have a theory as to what was happening
The battery was pulling up to 14.5 causing the controller to swap into mode 7
A larger battery bank or less panels would have gotten better results
I did a lot of probing to see why the voltage was so high. It wasn’t from the battery, voltage there was in the 13’s. There must be high resistance inside the controller somewhere.
@@BeeneEnergyYou exceeded the allowed solar input power; read the silver sticker on top of the device that states 720Wmax for a 12V system. As soon as it detects the battery voltage to peak at the "float voltage" level it will switch to mode 7 and not come back on its own, now matter how low the battery voltage gets. To avoid this use a battery with lower internal resistance or a higher battery voltage thus decreasing the currents. I use 8 lead acid batteries in a 4S2P configuration and when the batteries were newer last year, I rarely had the "mode 7 problem", now after heavy use for a year the batteries have aged and especially on partly cloudy days with colder panels and sudden sunshine surges the power enough to momentarily raise the battery voltage, even when the battery is far from fully charged. It's certainly a design flaw that could be mitigated by a few lines of code and a firmware update..
I have a PowMr 60 for about a year. I have yet to figure out all of the instructions. The startup screen lists watts and volts??? The instructions says I should be seeing watts and amps??? The instructions are woefully lacking. Anyone who can point me in a better direction?
The c stands for calibration it should be set to the actual battery voltage. Im haveing the opposite problem with mine i have a 109 amp hour lead acid. I have 2 24v 200w panels wired in parallel and it stays in mode 7 and wont switch to mode 8 its been in 7 for a day now i have no load on the battery edit: finaly switched to mode 8
How it changed from 7 to 8?
we got same problem, how to fix this absortion mode problem?
Put it in the trash or return it and get a better charge controller. Manufacturer told me its working as expected which is a garbage response IMO.
Friends! Tell me please! will this controller charge a lead acid battery?
Yes.....all three kinds of lead batteries
powmr can it be used with agm batteries?
Yes I believe there is an AGM setting in there.
Good day sir, pls help, I have that powmr 60a but if I select lifepo4 in bat select it will not charge, but if I select USER it will,, pls help me, my bat is sinopoly 90ah lifepo4
Take a video showing all the setting/status screens and upload it to UA-cam. Put the link here and I’ll check it out!
I’ve recently heard that ANL fuses are not the best to run for solar. You’re better off using something like blue sea. 🖖
I’ll check that out. Thanks!
Does the type of fuse affect the wattage of the solar panel?
C is for Calibration
Makeskyblue is a little better than Power Mr, i use them both, and there is another similar to power Mr it's called HomySun the cheapest version of all 3
Interesting, hadn't heard of the third brand. I think they missed an opportunity to call it HornySun. Just think of all the people up in arms giving free advertisement.
Under "MPPT 60AMP Solar Charge Controller For 12V 24V 36V 48V DC Battery Regulator"
Looks like the terminals might be larger on the HomySun one. It's very possible it's different electronics too. This case is used for lots of power supplies and apparently charge controllers. So maybe it's just multiple manufacturers using a similar case for their things! Just contemplating.
@@BeeneEnergy ... I bought 2 of the HomySun 60A and so far so good, one negative is , the display does not show watts, only amps and voltages. And their fan is blowing inwards not outwards like pwrMr or Makeskyblue.
Same problem here
It will be easier to describe the problem: PowMR 6.2 KW inverter The installation of photovoltaic panels is 3.6 KW, the inverter is not connected to the battery and is not connected to the grid. I have a 2 KW water heater connected to the inverter output. The inverter will not turn on the heater even in full sunlight. If I turn on a 500-watt receiver instead of a heater, the inverter produces electricity. How to set the inverter to provide current all the time regardless of the load, I want it to provide as much current as is currently in production and not to turn off when I turn on a larger load.
Photovoltaic installation:
225Wx16=3600W
36.9Vx16=295.2V
Inverter Settings
ua-cam.com/video/l9n7lgL5nu4/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
plastic box no fan , fire ! , I have the very old metal one , cant program for Lithium because voltage spikes, did not know they made a newer metal one, just looking for something that's works , not the most high cost thing.
Voltage is probably spiking due to the lithium battery being imbalanced internally. What I do is lower the charge voltage until the spikes go away.
Looks like a rebranded Renogy Rover
One thing a dislike about them,the power of the Solar panels are not steady
Your panels are dirty, it does make a difference.
Clean them and try again.
You kould always kut the kable from the battery.
Since it doesn't throttle... when that fan goes you might have a fire, you will have smoke genies at the least and the whole thing will be dead. I'll pass. Thanks for the info.
Thankfully it does have over temp protection so while not ideal to have a fan it’ll shut off if it gets too hot. Aka fan dies which you are correct is inevitable.
@@BeeneEnergy Thanks that is good to know. I might look into it more closely now. I'm liking the EPever though I ordered a 30a full kit the little separate screen, temp sensor, computer link cable all for $95 including shipping from Aliexpress a few days ago. The 30a is a little smaller than the 60 you showed, but looks about the same. I'd say it is 50% smaller.
The button controls on this POS are NFG! Still no charge, can't select battery type. The Bat led do not flash only lets me change the 03H to 24H setting. Chinese instructions are garbage.
1:31
Everyone that knows anything about electricity knows that the ‘standard’ rating for 10ga is 30A. Not exactly feeling confidence with this reviewer.
Really depends on the type of wire being used, if it's in conduit, etc. but sure the typical number is 30a for house wiring.
Sounds like its time to change to a better controller and stay away from them cheap one's... It could destroy the rest of our system u shouldn't have too sit and watch it and check it u should set and forget.....
You’ll win me over one day! It’s just hard to drop $400-800 on a controller to hook up $200 in panels for a lot of people.
@@BeeneEnergyI think the Renogy 40A controller are a fairly good value for money & reliability.
SRNE is cheap but very reliable
O novo não presta
you have completely confused the crap out of me
Sorry, I tend to ramble and get lost in my own videos. I’ll try harder!
You don't build my confidence. Maybe it's better you study how to use it, then upload a video. 🙏👌
brush your hair
Use a ferrule and you can use bigger wire
It's pretty tight in there with just the wire. Adding metal around the wire would shrink the copper that much? Maybe 8awg?
@BeeneEnergy it's mostly for safety so free strands of wire won't be sticking out of the terminals. It will also crimp under the screw and prevent pulling out. The best thing to use would be a machined terminal like they use in car audio but you are increasing price higher than you'd increase efficiency. Saying that, I use ferrules with heat shrink skirts and I tin them with solder then use a hex crimper. I'm sure there is a better way I haven't thought of but the ferrule is smaller diameter shank with almost like a funnel inside for larger gauge wire.
Hello sir. The old powmr with fan and the new one without fan but with heatsink, which one is better please? And more efficient
I’d go for the old with fan. New one overheats too easily.
@@BeeneEnergy is it possible to install a fan in it since it looks like there is a place for fan?