Based on the minute of research I did on the MR2's stock seatbelts, you should be able to unbolt the side of the seatbelt that just has the metal bracket, and then just run it through the holes in the seat. It would be a safer alternative while you are waiting for the 4 point harnesses.
4 or 5 point harnesses in a non caged car are really unsafe, hope he sticks with stock belts because those allow your body to shift away from the collapsing roof
It's an all or nothing thing. Don't put a fixed bucket like this in a car without a full cage. In the event of a rollover, the roof will crumple and an OEM style reclining seat and 3 point belt will allow your body to move to the side and in the worst case the seat back will collapse backward before crushing your spine. If you want a fixed back, that holds you in place, put a full cage in, end of story.
That's excatly what i did 2 years ago. 4 points harnesses are not safe, 5 and 6 points are, but also are a pain on the street. The best solution is to have the 3 poin OEM belt properly routed (also with the buckle down low enough to have to thread the bel trough to fasten it) and 6 points for trackdays
Woooowww! I never knew this channel existed! I have owned 3 MR2’s. All AW11’s, I currently have a 89 SC from the original owner sitting in my garage. And my wife had a 91 MR2 Turbo sitting in the garage also. I so hyped for this car man! You seem funny as hell, and intelligent all at the same time. After owning that f boy car. You are gonna wanna pick up a Clean SC one. My first 3 MR2’s were Hooniganed out! With carbon fiber everywhere, racing seats etc.. now I’m old, (35) and I just cruise my MR2. ..... Well, my Hoonigan days still come out to play..... my garage also has my AE86 hatchback GTS 😎 Love your channel man.
The way i seen ya fix the seatbelt issue is to unbolt the bottom of the seatbelt and rout it through the side bolster so it can go across your lap and have the buckle through the other side bolster. Looks funky but it allows the belt to work properly and still not have to get a 4 point harness
Has Casey ever considered hosting a car meet or track day? All this winter car build/daily driving a 944 content is going to give me seasonal depression :p
Where I live, every little change has to be TÜV approved and installed by an approved shop which then gives you a certificate on installation and then you have to go through inspection to homologate the part. We are forbidden to modify anything, so welding brackets to the seat is a no-go... Imagine the pain - I like small engines with turbos (up to 1.6l), so for that, I have to install the turbo and tow it to Germany to A-test it (my country doesn't a-test), get an international certificate of a proper modification and then go to my local technical inspection facility also with a professional installation certificate... Insane... In the end, I decided to get a new daily-driver and make a project of the current one. I can tow it to the nearest track and back ten times at least for the expense of one trip to Germany. But I'm still happy for you guys who can mod more freely and proudly use your creations on streets. As always, Casey, thank you for the great content, and have fun on your MR2!
I agree with you on the seatbelt change over I made the mistake of not switching them when I did my S10 back in the day and got into an accident and suffered some significant injuries because so was cheap and used the stock belts with the racing seats.
Chris Fix did a racing seat instalation where he unbolted the seatbelt on the bottom and fed them thorugh the seats holes. it looked pretty safe to me, so you might want to check it out.
Don't hate the MR2 for not drifting...it really sticks & rotates. When I was AutoXing the Mister Two was my nemesis, along with the Miata. The only way I could drive around them in my 300ZX was by sheer HP. A very worthy little car.
It doesn't help when most of the typical RWD moves will actually make it less likely to drift. Super heavy front brake bias means you will overload front grip and understeer before anything else happens. Heavy throttle while low speed cornering will also understeer as you lighten the nose and squat the rear. Do a cleaner entry, hit a faster apex speed and load it up closer to its G limit. Then you can tip in with your 160 nm torque and get something to happen. But it won't be as natural or easy to control as you think it is. If its lifting wheels in the air or bottoming out, then definitely don't try it with two trucks parked in the landing zone.
Nice hanger and collection. It’s great to see someone who truly does their own thing, with confidence and humbleness. She must support you in everything you do, bless those women. $2.5k nice, picked up a gze aw11. Keep it coming!
Your MR2 build videos are among my most anticipated at the moment. Thanks for the sweet vids! Just got my blacktop in mine and running well and have a rad 80’s Pioneer stereo with equalizers on the way. Just exterior work to do next. I agree with what you’re saying about picking one off color. I have a black and blue interior and went with a tan knob (Bamshift Oni Mask). Just adds that final touch.
Of the people I subscribe too (and its a lot) I think Casey had the best intro for this videos. The music is catchy, has great video clips, its perfect!
I put NRG seats in my 92 civic build for the same reason you did, they were super cost effective and look good! My Honda I've been doing a budget build on and probably have less than the price of 4 sets of Viper tires in it, including putting a new engine in it and buying it! Gotta love these late 80's early 90's Japanese car projects! I'm looking forward to seeing your MR2 progress!
Have you considered unbolting the bottom of the factory seat-belt and putting it through the hole in the side of the seat? It seems like it would at least partially and temporarily solve your problem.
As a shitbox MR2 owner, I can totally appreciate putting little to no money into it, and having it be fun. Totally dig that it’s black. Panda would be cool. Can’t wait to see more!
Hey Casey, you should still try in do the open itb's. The most expensive part will be the AE111 blacktop 20v ecu but i think you can get one for around $200. If your silver top wiring harness is the automatic version it should be a plug n play to the BT ecu. I think you might have to swap out 2 pins or something like that (i dont remember). But the only thing you need to add after you remove the AFM from the ST ecu is a MAP sensor and IAT sensor and i believe you can get both of those from a usa spec 90's corolla i dont remember if its from a 4afe or 7afe. But just get the sensor's, plugs with the pig tails from a junk yard and you should be go to go. Or if you can find a ecu with the whole wiring harness but that will be tough i imagine. Cant wait to see the progress with your a dub.
exhaust if you want loud and quiet use some electric cutouts with downpipes. super cheap and easy. amazon or ebay them for 50 to 75$ and then just a 5$ tunrdown
You can get a small seat belt extension on eBay as well for use with bucket seats. They’re not expensive and are crash rated. Like they are safety rated. It clicks right in to the side and over laps the top of the seat. It’s adjustable. 🥰🇺🇸
So I've been looking at an 85 mr2 for $2000, 200k miles, everything checks out, really the only problem is rust in common areas, back fender and front lip, seems like a good amount of rust but looks like it's been isolated to just around the fenders. Just wanna know if it's worth the buy? Seems pretty well contained to me but I'm not that familiar with rust work or older steel body cars. Any advice helps!
Alex Use a body saw or death wheel and cut out the bad rust. Tac in New sheet metal. Grind out the welds flat. Use putty and shape it. Prime it, paint it. Done! Or the 3M rust stop works too.
Vid/project suggestion.... When you're ready to do a limited slip diff weld up the old one first. That way you can do some demonstration/experimentation and schooling on what it's like to have a spool/welded diff in such a rear biased car. People spool front engine rear drive vehicles quite a bit, and that's kinda OK cause sliding the back is part of the fun and rather controllable. But in a little mid engine car, that's already infamous for snap oversteer, man that'd be interesting. Be a real good lesson on the importance of a good differential. That and it'd be free and great hooligan fun for bit.
i have the same designed seat in my 92 talon and it really kinda sucks to get in and out of all the time. the side bolster on the shoulders makes it difficult getting in a 2 door car. my seat is on the floor solid mounted with the stock seat belt working pretty good.
This is GOLD, im 16 and would love to get one of these. Been apllying to tons of jobs near me to get funds for it. I always disliked the fact that it couldnt drift and I love the logic coming out of this hooligan build.
I own one of these and I'm in the process of putting the silvertop in mine too. Putting a load of money into it as I love it wayy too much, also going standalone ECU for mine so I can get around the MAF sensor. Also so I can put more aggressive cams in it further down the line
The shift BALL in a classic 42x muscle car is also there for a reason. If you palm the ball and blow a shift, no harm. If you GRAB the shift and it kicks back? You break your wrist. Indy cars are not the same. In theory Indy drivers don't blow shifts. Or mistake R for 1st.
That's an AFM, not a MAF. AFMs use a flap with a resistance track. The resistance track does wear out. Converting to a MAF or speed density stand alone are worth it if you want better parts availability in the long run.
I found using the stock rails for aftermarket seats are way to high. You look taller than me, I had to make custom mounts and mount the aftermarket seats on the floor utilizing stock mount points on front and new ones for the rear. I just set it at my optiman leg position. 20v headers on the secondary pipe have a split before going into one pipe, those ducatti mufflers would sound mint if you ran 1 on each bank. 1, 4 to one and 2,3 to one.
Have you ever tired tractor paint. It is cheap and tough. If you do your prep right and shot good, it $50 bucks and comes in many colors. Black, gray and more
I'm a little meh on the Christmas color accent piece (which I think was the term you were looking for), but hey, if you like it, you like it. Curious how the Duc exhaust will sound...
Good on the fly build decision to pursue harnesses. Please show how you mount the harnesses independently of the seats so people see the proper way. Way to be the example of what to do rather than what not to do
I looked it up - Quaife does make an LSD for the AW11, will you be looking for a used one of those, seeing that those cost almost half of what you paid for the whole car. And thank you for building an AW11, it is the dream car of my childhood.
You keep calling it a MAF sensor. Those flapper style airflow sensors measure volumetric flow rate and hence are called VAF sensors (also vane airflow sensor). Also the amount of power that can be gained for custom exhaust vs a Supercharged MR2 exhaust is pretty minimal, but it will be a lot louder.
How tall are you? I'm thinking of putting racing seats in my e36 but I'm worried of ordering them online because I'm not sure they'll fit my body properly. I'm 6" tall.
You don't necessarily need a harness, you could unbolt the bottom bolt of the seatbelt and thread the seatbelt through the side holes Unless toyota welded it to the bottom, in that case I'm just a dumb youtube comment
Casey could you discuss the issue of stock belts vs harnesses? I’ve heard a lot of horror stories with 4 points and that you need the anti submarine belt, and I’ve also read horror stories about guys bashing their heads off a rollbar if they actually have 5 points. Is there a sweet spot to combining race/street safety tech?
I don’t know about the seats, but ThatDudeinBlue had a NRG wheel on his 240sx. The steering wheel rim came apart from the spokes on him. Granted this was while he was uninstalling it, but that doesn’t inspire confidence.
Pistol grip shifters are great same with T handle Hurst shifters, they're a lot of fun but most muscle cars are designed to go straight not corner haha
Get the engine computer recapped. 1990’s Toyota ECUs have a history of capacitor failure. I’ve had it done to several cars and it’s usually $80-$150 at a capable computer repair center.
When I started my whole sports car insanity last year the first car I almost bought was a 1st gen MR2. I ended up with a Dodge Stealth Turbo but I still want something from the 80's when I have somewhere to put my Stealth let alone a second toy.
@@DelsinLabonte They're kinda hard to find by me so I'm thinking maybe a later Fiero GT. Those pop up all the time cheap with lower miles. At the same time I have yet to tick American V8 off my checklist so maybe a Trans Am or C4. Either way I need to find a place with a garage first. And do some costly maintenance on my Stealth.
I think I'm having some timing or ignition issues on my Mr2, any tips on tuning with a distributor? And Casey, you're supposed to drift these in First gear, they rev VERY high, and hit like 40 in first lol
The problem is that in Germany almost everything you showed would be illegal. Custom exhaust a no go. The seats, if you have contacts at the TüV should pass probably. Well the tuning in Germany is very strictly controlled xD
I had a couple of subarus, hondas, acuras, BMW and Lexus. but i will always cry iver my 1991 MR2 turbo Q~Q that i sold for college funds. no its not easy to find a Mr2 Gen 2 90-92 :/ since 93+ are down power.
My dream car is a 1988 supercharged tbar aw11 in black 😣😍 I know its not much but it is the most beautiful car ever in my opinion lol id take it over anything else 😍
Can you not un-bolt the bottom fixing point of the belt and pass it through the hole in the seat on the door side? The tang can pass through the other side hole and click into the buckle? Not had an MR2 so don't know if it is feasible. On a sub note regarding the MR2, did you know that it was not very popular in France? The reason being that the French for M R 2 sounds like "em-air-duh" which in the French language means "it's sh*tty"
Id personally love to see trumpets installed, it feels like everyone is too busy slapping turbos on everything to try and make a billion horsepower, not enough NA builds, on top of that NA engines just sound better, im a sucker for some silly turbo or supercharger noises but pure engine NA sounds best
Based on the minute of research I did on the MR2's stock seatbelts, you should be able to unbolt the side of the seatbelt that just has the metal bracket, and then just run it through the holes in the seat. It would be a safer alternative while you are waiting for the 4 point harnesses.
4 or 5 point harnesses in a non caged car are really unsafe, hope he sticks with stock belts because those allow your body to shift away from the collapsing roof
It's an all or nothing thing. Don't put a fixed bucket like this in a car without a full cage. In the event of a rollover, the roof will crumple and an OEM style reclining seat and 3 point belt will allow your body to move to the side and in the worst case the seat back will collapse backward before crushing your spine. If you want a fixed back, that holds you in place, put a full cage in, end of story.
@Patrick Ross Could you explain why? I've oft heard similar.
Yes, the seatbelts are super easy to take off and put back on. A lot of guys have racing seats and use stock belts.
That's excatly what i did 2 years ago. 4 points harnesses are not safe, 5 and 6 points are, but also are a pain on the street. The best solution is to have the 3 poin OEM belt properly routed (also with the buckle down low enough to have to thread the bel trough to fasten it) and 6 points for trackdays
"You don't need much power when it pushes this easily"
Ah, I see you're already thinking like an AW11 owner
The MR2 is gonna be epic!
Why not use a standalone ecu to maf delete it? you could lace the seatbelts into the seat by removing the seatbelt from the floor and c pillar
Casey Putsch yeah, I can’t wait for it!
Or a blacktop ECU!
Do you think my 6 foot 6 ass could fit in there after the racing seats are put in?
But you will run rich with a black top ecu
Just got my $800 MR2 MK1 in "Driving" Condition yesterday, This thing is a blast!
F boy special??!! Lmaooooo!! Guess your wife won't be letting you drive that car too far on your own? 🤣😂
Woooowww! I never knew this channel existed!
I have owned 3 MR2’s. All AW11’s, I currently have a 89 SC from the original owner sitting in my garage. And my wife had a 91 MR2 Turbo sitting in the garage also. I so hyped for this car man! You seem funny as hell, and intelligent all at the same time.
After owning that f boy car. You are gonna wanna pick up a Clean SC one.
My first 3 MR2’s were Hooniganed out! With carbon fiber everywhere, racing seats etc..
now I’m old, (35) and I just cruise my MR2.
..... Well, my Hoonigan days still come out to play..... my garage also has my AE86 hatchback GTS 😎
Love your channel man.
One of the best rotating car ever. I thought my crx was good then drove a 1st gen mr2...way better!
The way i seen ya fix the seatbelt issue is to unbolt the bottom of the seatbelt and rout it through the side bolster so it can go across your lap and have the buckle through the other side bolster. Looks funky but it allows the belt to work properly and still not have to get a 4 point harness
Has Casey ever considered hosting a car meet or track day? All this winter car build/daily driving a 944 content is going to give me seasonal depression :p
Casey have it on the eastern coast so I can go 😂
Where I live, every little change has to be TÜV approved and installed by an approved shop which then gives you a certificate on installation and then you have to go through inspection to homologate the part. We are forbidden to modify anything, so welding brackets to the seat is a no-go... Imagine the pain - I like small engines with turbos (up to 1.6l), so for that, I have to install the turbo and tow it to Germany to A-test it (my country doesn't a-test), get an international certificate of a proper modification and then go to my local technical inspection facility also with a professional installation certificate... Insane... In the end, I decided to get a new daily-driver and make a project of the current one. I can tow it to the nearest track and back ten times at least for the expense of one trip to Germany. But I'm still happy for you guys who can mod more freely and proudly use your creations on streets. As always, Casey, thank you for the great content, and have fun on your MR2!
Would love to see the 6sp. You're living my dream.. thanks for sharing
Chris Smith right! He’s like my uncle! They’re both so quirky about automobiles and restomoding
I agree with you on the seatbelt change over I made the mistake of not switching them when I did my S10 back in the day and got into an accident and suffered some significant injuries because so was cheap and used the stock belts with the racing seats.
Chris Fix did a racing seat instalation where he unbolted the seatbelt on the bottom and fed them thorugh the seats holes. it looked pretty safe to me, so you might want to check it out.
Don't hate the MR2 for not drifting...it really sticks & rotates. When I was AutoXing the Mister Two was my nemesis, along with the Miata. The only way I could drive around them in my 300ZX was by sheer HP. A very worthy little car.
They aren't a drift car. A great car though indeed!
It doesn't help when most of the typical RWD moves will actually make it less likely to drift. Super heavy front brake bias means you will overload front grip and understeer before anything else happens. Heavy throttle while low speed cornering will also understeer as you lighten the nose and squat the rear. Do a cleaner entry, hit a faster apex speed and load it up closer to its G limit. Then you can tip in with your 160 nm torque and get something to happen. But it won't be as natural or easy to control as you think it is. If its lifting wheels in the air or bottoming out, then definitely don't try it with two trucks parked in the landing zone.
Black top aw11 is my dream. Love the build!!
Nice hanger and collection. It’s great to see someone who truly does their own thing, with confidence and humbleness. She must support you in everything you do, bless those women. $2.5k nice, picked up a gze aw11. Keep it coming!
i yelled WHAT out loud when you said both seats for $400
Im a Simple man... I see MR2, I click.
Seat quality is directly porpotionate to horsepower. 😉
A supercharged 3.8L V6 is a popular swap.
Might as well get a fiero instead if you're gonna do that imo
@@jamesshives5679 Actually, that's what I was thinking of. Wrong mfr! Thx!
The 2GR-FE is a popular swap, and that’s a V6.
Your MR2 build videos are among my most anticipated at the moment. Thanks for the sweet vids! Just got my blacktop in mine and running well and have a rad 80’s Pioneer stereo with equalizers on the way. Just exterior work to do next. I agree with what you’re saying about picking one off color. I have a black and blue interior and went with a tan knob (Bamshift Oni Mask). Just adds that final touch.
Of the people I subscribe too (and its a lot) I think Casey had the best intro for this videos. The music is catchy, has great video clips, its perfect!
Thanks! Means a lot.
I put NRG seats in my 92 civic build for the same reason you did, they were super cost effective and look good! My Honda I've been doing a budget build on and probably have less than the price of 4 sets of Viper tires in it, including putting a new engine in it and buying it! Gotta love these late 80's early 90's Japanese car projects! I'm looking forward to seeing your MR2 progress!
My brother had a "Monza" exhaust on his back in the mid 80s. They sounded great.
Have you considered unbolting the bottom of the factory seat-belt and putting it through the hole in the side of the seat? It seems like it would at least partially and temporarily solve your problem.
As a shitbox MR2 owner, I can totally appreciate putting little to no money into it, and having it be fun. Totally dig that it’s black. Panda would be cool. Can’t wait to see more!
When you said "can we build it for cheap" and then started walking towards the trash can I swore you were gonna pull parts out of it haha
The body on that MR2 looks so much like my 1988 MR2 Supercharged. The supercharged version is somewhere in the order of 150 HP. Goes really good.
Hey Casey, you should still try in do the open itb's. The most expensive part will be the AE111 blacktop 20v ecu but i think you can get one for around $200. If your silver top wiring harness is the automatic version it should be a plug n play to the BT ecu. I think you might have to swap out 2 pins or something like that (i dont remember). But the only thing you need to add after you remove the AFM from the ST ecu is a MAP sensor and IAT sensor and i believe you can get both of those from a usa spec 90's corolla i dont remember if its from a 4afe or 7afe. But just get the sensor's, plugs with the pig tails from a junk yard and you should be go to go. Or if you can find a ecu with the whole wiring harness but that will be tough i imagine. Cant wait to see the progress with your a dub.
exhaust if you want loud and quiet use some electric cutouts with downpipes. super cheap and easy. amazon or ebay them for 50 to 75$ and then just a 5$ tunrdown
You can get a small seat belt extension on eBay as well for use with bucket seats. They’re not expensive and are crash rated. Like they are safety rated. It clicks right in to the side and over laps the top of the seat. It’s adjustable. 🥰🇺🇸
This is my plan for the spring!
So I've been looking at an 85 mr2 for $2000, 200k miles, everything checks out, really the only problem is rust in common areas, back fender and front lip, seems like a good amount of rust but looks like it's been isolated to just around the fenders. Just wanna know if it's worth the buy? Seems pretty well contained to me but I'm not that familiar with rust work or older steel body cars. Any advice helps!
Please make a few videos on the rust repair and paint process!
Alex Use a body saw or death wheel and cut out the bad rust. Tac in New sheet metal. Grind out the welds flat. Use putty and shape it. Prime it, paint it. Done!
Or the 3M rust stop works too.
Vid/project suggestion.... When you're ready to do a limited slip diff weld up the old one first. That way you can do some demonstration/experimentation and schooling on what it's like to have a spool/welded diff in such a rear biased car. People spool front engine rear drive vehicles quite a bit, and that's kinda OK cause sliding the back is part of the fun and rather controllable. But in a little mid engine car, that's already infamous for snap oversteer, man that'd be interesting. Be a real good lesson on the importance of a good differential. That and it'd be free and great hooligan fun for bit.
Cant you feed the stock belts through those holes?
i have the same designed seat in my 92 talon and it really kinda sucks to get in and out of all the time. the side bolster on the shoulders makes it difficult getting in a 2 door car. my seat is on the floor solid mounted with the stock seat belt working pretty good.
You should install a touch screen radio with a backup camera, would be pretty cool to see on a AW11 and has not been posted before
This is GOLD, im 16 and would love to get one of these. Been apllying to tons of jobs near me to get funds for it. I always disliked the fact that it couldnt drift and I love the logic coming out of this hooligan build.
high idle is probably the idle air control valve. nice car!
I own one of these and I'm in the process of putting the silvertop in mine too. Putting a load of money into it as I love it wayy too much, also going standalone ECU for mine so I can get around the MAF sensor. Also so I can put more aggressive cams in it further down the line
13:50 Putsch the other way, Putsch Putsch Putsch.
cool idea with the muffler's =)
CAnt wait to see the next vid on the build.
The shift BALL in a classic 42x muscle car is also there for a reason. If you palm the ball and blow a shift, no harm. If you GRAB the shift and it kicks back? You break your wrist.
Indy cars are not the same. In theory Indy drivers don't blow shifts. Or mistake R for 1st.
That's an AFM, not a MAF. AFMs use a flap with a resistance track. The resistance track does wear out. Converting to a MAF or speed density stand alone are worth it if you want better parts availability in the long run.
I like the thought process. I look forward to seeing how it comes out
I found using the stock rails for aftermarket seats are way to high. You look taller than me, I had to make custom mounts and mount the aftermarket seats on the floor utilizing stock mount points on front and new ones for the rear. I just set it at my optiman leg position. 20v headers on the secondary pipe have a split before going into one pipe, those ducatti mufflers would sound mint if you ran 1 on each bank. 1, 4 to one and 2,3 to one.
Casey, would love the seats for a furniture idea.. HMU we might be able to work something out
Yes! Make me a good offer and come get them.
Can't wait till it's complete! what fitment is that btw?
Any info on oem steering column or repair kit for aw11?
Thoughts on a weighted shift knob?
More weight may feel nice, but slows a car down.
Have you ever tired tractor paint. It is cheap and tough. If you do your prep right and shot good, it $50 bucks and comes in many colors. Black, gray and more
Totally love that shift knob.
please continue on the 944
How did you find a silver top swap for 2500?? My aw11 was 4k stock ,clean, 150k miles.
I'm a little meh on the Christmas color accent piece (which I think was the term you were looking for), but hey, if you like it, you like it. Curious how the Duc exhaust will sound...
Put a budget LSD on that thing by throwing some beads at the diff. I'd also put some coilovers and replace some bushings and rubbery things.
F boy special. Love it.
Are these body style MR2 K24 friendly?
Good on the fly build decision to pursue harnesses. Please show how you mount the harnesses independently of the seats so people see the proper way. Way to be the example of what to do rather than what not to do
I looked it up - Quaife does make an LSD for the AW11, will you be looking for a used one of those, seeing that those cost almost half of what you paid for the whole car. And thank you for building an AW11, it is the dream car of my childhood.
I love seeing someone with a decent amount of money using a motorcycle exhaust on a car. That, my friend, is what hotrodding is all about!
What seat rail did you use?
You keep calling it a MAF sensor. Those flapper style airflow sensors measure volumetric flow rate and hence are called VAF sensors (also vane airflow sensor).
Also the amount of power that can be gained for custom exhaust vs a Supercharged MR2 exhaust is pretty minimal, but it will be a lot louder.
The USA Factory service manual refers to it as an AFM (Air flow meter)
How tall are you? I'm thinking of putting racing seats in my e36 but I'm worried of ordering them online because I'm not sure they'll fit my body properly. I'm 6" tall.
What diff are you getting?
How do you rewire these older cars? My Fiat needs some serious rewiring that I have no idea how to do.
You don't necessarily need a harness, you could unbolt the bottom bolt of the seatbelt and thread the seatbelt through the side holes
Unless toyota welded it to the bottom, in that case I'm just a dumb youtube comment
Both the buckle and belt are bolted to the chassis, so can be removed and re-routed.
If need pipes bent, junkyard down the road used to be dirt cheap & did good work. Not sure if who took it over still does that though
Casey could you discuss the issue of stock belts vs harnesses? I’ve heard a lot of horror stories with 4 points and that you need the anti submarine belt, and I’ve also read horror stories about guys bashing their heads off a rollbar if they actually have 5 points. Is there a sweet spot to combining race/street safety tech?
I don’t know about the seats, but ThatDudeinBlue had a NRG wheel on his 240sx. The steering wheel rim came apart from the spokes on him. Granted this was while he was uninstalling it, but that doesn’t inspire confidence.
They are cheap...
This looks like it will be a terrific car! Keep up the good work!
Pistol grip shifters are great same with T handle Hurst shifters, they're a lot of fun but most muscle cars are designed to go straight not corner haha
Get the engine computer recapped. 1990’s Toyota ECUs have a history of capacitor failure. I’ve had it done to several cars and it’s usually $80-$150 at a capable computer repair center.
AAAAAAAAAA SILVERTOP 20V!!! I miss driving a 4age
Youre right about that lol, the MR2 is a small car but it feels really roomy inside haha!
A 2ZZ-GE with a 6spd transmission swap would make that a godly driving machine
When I started my whole sports car insanity last year the first car I almost bought was a 1st gen MR2. I ended up with a Dodge Stealth Turbo but I still want something from the 80's when I have somewhere to put my Stealth let alone a second toy.
FUNKOfilms, MR2 or nothing.
@@DelsinLabonte They're kinda hard to find by me so I'm thinking maybe a later Fiero GT. Those pop up all the time cheap with lower miles. At the same time I have yet to tick American V8 off my checklist so maybe a Trans Am or C4. Either way I need to find a place with a garage first. And do some costly maintenance on my Stealth.
I think I'm having some timing or ignition issues on my Mr2, any tips on tuning with a distributor? And Casey, you're supposed to drift these in First gear, they rev VERY high, and hit like 40 in first lol
God forbid you need some transmissions I've got a couple of light Aw11 transmissions that MAY need rebuilding.
I was in 1st.
@@CaseyPutsch you were spot on in the video. I'm running a sc'er with an na gearbox so it's just a lil easier for me to get em slipping, Keep it up!
Good video Casey!
Whats the lykan doin there?
Damn those are nice shoes. What brand are they?
Love that intro!
The problem is that in Germany almost everything you showed would be illegal. Custom exhaust a no go. The seats, if you have contacts at the TüV should pass probably. Well the tuning in Germany is very strictly controlled xD
I had a couple of subarus, hondas, acuras, BMW and Lexus. but i will always cry iver my 1991 MR2 turbo Q~Q that i sold for college funds. no its not easy to find a Mr2 Gen 2 90-92 :/ since 93+ are down power.
My dream car is a 1988 supercharged tbar aw11 in black 😣😍
I know its not much but it is the most beautiful car ever in my opinion lol id take it over anything else 😍
Frame down! good dam it !..
.thank you
harness is a must
Tofu AW11
GREAT VID
Flexing by making us walk your entire garage to get to the mr2. I see you!! I'm not mad though! Hahah
is that mold on the stock seat at 9:43
Corey P yeah
If you want to drift. Put it in the wind. 2 lbs welding rod, instant locker.
If you want to drift, buy a front engined rwd car. ;)
Love the hat - Ask the man who owns one!
Kermit The Frog: "but honey! It's usable in the future!"
Match, but doesn’t match? It’s called an accent, or contrast. Really digging the build.
Can you not un-bolt the bottom fixing point of the belt and pass it through the hole in the seat on the door side? The tang can pass through the other side hole and click into the buckle? Not had an MR2 so don't know if it is feasible. On a sub note regarding the MR2, did you know that it was not very popular in France? The reason being that the French for M R 2 sounds like "em-air-duh" which in the French language means "it's sh*tty"
Want to sell me the old steering wheel? (17 and building a budget Miata) and love that wheel!
Robbie Sellman sure! Email me and make a good offer. Pick it up or you pay for shipping.
Your awesome! I love your videos !
Id personally love to see trumpets installed, it feels like everyone is too busy slapping turbos on everything to try and make a billion horsepower, not enough NA builds, on top of that NA engines just sound better, im a sucker for some silly turbo or supercharger noises but pure engine NA sounds best