1995-1996 Honda Shadow ACE 1100 Carb rebuild, re-install and tuning ( Part 2 )
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- This is the second part of the 1995-1996 Honda Shadow 1100 ACE carb rebuild. In this video the carbs have been cleaned and are ready for rebuilding, re-installation and tuning. This is a long video as I didn't want to cut too much out from the whole experience required to do this correctly. Grab a snack and a drink and relax with a good instructional video.
Here is the link for Part 1
• 1995-1996 Honda Shadow...
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Shop website is www.jwsrepairservices.com
Have a great ride!
As someone who was doing my carbs along with you, I appreciate the little extra bits of info here and there.
I noticed my shadow was running more like a 250 so I checked my carbs and found a crack in one of the plunger diaphragm things.
I'm glad it helped. One other I'm not sure that I mentioned is to check the large vent hose between the carbs, it is easy to pinch and causes strange problems at highway speeds. Thanks for watching! Have a great and safe ride!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC thanks ride safe!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC dagum I knew I'd miss something.
Put it back together and now it won't start. Used a little starter fluid but it uses it right up and dies. Guess I'm diving back in tomorrow!
great stuff , i,ve also done this type of work for decades but you do an excellent job explaining it far better than i could , thanks for taking the time from the UK
Thank you for the kind words, I try to demonstrate things as close to real world as possible. It makes for long videos but the feedback has been by far mostly positive. Check out my other videos on the channel, there is a little bit of everything there. If you have any ideas of what you might like to see, let me know and we will try to get that done.
you're a life saver I'm so glad you did a video on the exact problem I was having on mine. come to find out whoever worked on the bike before tried to get more power out of it or something because the main jets were at 190! and not to its original jet. thank you again for your video I couldn't have done it without you!
I'm glad it helped, that's why I do what I do. Check out our other vids on the channel and please like, share and subscribe if you'd like to help me back. Thanks again, safe riding!
Thank you. This task is in my near future and your video gave me great insight. Thanks for not editing out the game of carb rubics cube kerfluffle.
Thank you for watching, I try never to edit out the problems as that would not be fair to the viewers when they run into the same issue in trying to perform the repair. Slick editing does make things look easy, but when they aren't, the solution should be shown. I just try to be realistic. Most people do appreciate the reality. The best advice I can give is don't start unless you have the time to do it, there is no short cut to carb work, it is either right or it's wrong. Good luck! Pick up your carb kits at www.allballsracing.com .
Great detailed video. I wish there are more motorcycle related like this
Any bike in particular you would like to see? let me know. We currently have a 2006 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad 1600 in for a clutch rebuild and a super clean 1990 Honda Goldwing 1500 SE Trike in for a full resurrection. Thanks for watching, your support is vital to our channel!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC thank you. Stumbled upon video looking at 95 shadow ace. Considering buying one. But if you happen to get a Roadstar Warrior or a FZ 09 In your shop..post a video. Currently own a 02 RSW and a 15 FZ 09
Just followed your tutorial and cleaned out my twin carbs. Good thing because I overlooked the pilot jet and reopened it to make sure it was clear.
Thanks! I'm glad I could help.
The 'secret' to getting the carb back on those rubber boots when they're being stubborn.....not lube (though it can't hurt) but a heat gun. Position the carbs, warm each side up with a heat gun till they're soft and pliable (the metal of the carb should help transfer heat to the inside areas you can't reach)....wiggle them in.
While you are correct in using a heat gun (we sometimes have to as well) I don't normally recommend it to anyone because if the boot gets too hot it can cause it to un-bond from the metal backing, ruining the adapter, boot, manifold, all terms for the same thing. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
My new throttle cables are sticking and the throttle doesn't snap back. I just replaced my handlebars with 10" apehangers & got new cables all around. a vid on that might be helpful. This one was great for me.
Thanks for the idea, we will probably do a couple of bar swaps this upcoming riding season. I will be sure to capture one of those. Thanks for watching!
Great video shows real life and not edited to look super easy. Do you find that ethanol in the fuel is causing more corrosion issues in carbs? If so, do you recommend any kind of additives that will help combat the issue?
Thank you, as far as ethanol goes, it's garbage. They should leave it in the cool bottles at the liquor store. As far as an additive goes, Stabill helps some, but the alcohol part cannot be stabilized, biggest issue with that? Ethanol is hydrophilic and absorbs moisture from the air, it will puddle water in the bottom of the tank and rust the top. Keep it FULL whenever it will sit for more than a few days. Thank you for your support!
Can you make a video of how to set up the carb synchronizer tool? I bought one but I’m confused on how to set it up. I would appreciate it. Thank you
I would love too, however, the manometer I use is about 30 years old and uses mercury. You can't get them like that anymore. I prefer them because mercury is heavy and gives a very stable measure of vacuum. I have tried to use the environmentally friendly version to no avail. The old mercury sticks require no set-up, you just connect them to the vacuum adapters with the hoses. That's a great suggestion though, I appreciate the input. Sorry I couldn't offer any advice on this topic.
HI, great video, I just pickup up a 03 Sabre 1100, I have to tear the carbs apart tomorrow, I have only had it 2 days, bike ran great but I know carbs are leaking,,,this bike from I see looks very similiar,,,,If I leave the carbs togther do I need to sync,,,also, does this bike have a high speed sync like the intruder or just a low speed sync? TY for the video
Thank you for watching! This is NOT a Suzuki! It only has a low speed synch. We do split the carbs because we vat them, if you get kits from www.allballsracing.com/ the kits will include all of the gaskets, o-rings, jets and screws you will need. You can do a static sync but it is not as exact as sync sticks. If you do not separate the carbs the sync may remain close but always should be checked. Good luck, take your time.
Problem: We didn't get to see what adjustment is made when the carbs are out of balance.
Sorry about that. Where the screw itself is located is an impossible shot to get on video. We did attempt to film it but you could not see what was happening, so I had to edit that out. If you have the carbs off for rebuilding, you will know where the screw is and the procedure is simply to turn it one way or the other until both cylinders vacuum is the same on the gauge. Thanks for watching!
I am new to motorcycles and just got a 1998 Honda VT1100 that had not been started for 6 years. I am doing a carburetor rebuild but this one doesn't seem to have the fuel/air mixture screw. I see where it should be, but the hole is covered with a cap/plug. Is the adjustment behind that or is this a version that is non-adjustable? Thank you in advance for your help!
That is a plug that covers the pilot adjustment screw. They are installed from the factory and must be carefully removed for cleaning and adjustment. You will need to drill a hole in the plug GENTLY!, don't go too deep, you will drill out the screw itself if you aren't careful. You can feel the bit drop as it passes through the plug. You can then screw a metal course thread screw into the hole and pry out the plug. Be careful and good luck! Thanks for watching! and hopefully liking and subscribing too!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC Thanks for that info! I thought that might be the case but didn’t want to start drilling and find out I was wrong.
And I have liked and subscribed already. Your videos are GREAT!!
friend, when I suddenly accelerate, it throws a little black smoke at me and I am tired of regulating the floats and it continues to do the same thing, why should it?
Does it rev up all the way? If not, it may be that your slides are not raising up all the way, this can be caused by dirt or residue on the slide or in the body of the carb, or both. If it does rev up all the way, depending on just how much smoke it is, in most cases is normal unless it's extreme, causes stalling or is fouling spark plugs.
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC tankyou
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC that factory motorcycle the 2 air screws have 3 turns from the factory?
@@luis0luis058 Factory setting is 2.5 turns out from seating. I recommend 3 because if you set it at 2.5 you will just bring it out the half turn after it's running.
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC tank you my friend
I have this exact bike and i dont seem to have much acceleration or pull for that matter beyond half throttle. Bike starts great idles great and revs without load normally.... shift to next gear and power returns until half _ 3/4 throttle.... any ideas?
Typically what you're describing is related to the vacuum slides not opening under acceleration. The butterfly opens ( it's mechanical ) but the vacuum slide does not, this causes a lean mixture and lack of power. Check your slides closely for debris and the diaphragms for holes or tears. The slides should move all the way up and down without resistance, other than the spring of course. Also, be sure to check the main jet itself and make sure it is not restricted, that will also cause a lean condition and lack of power and acceleration. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC am i correct in assuming that if one is restricted from sliding, the other will not work simply because of laak of pressure from engine or would they both not work? Any ideas on how to avoid removing carbs and still correcting this possible issue?
The carburetor slides can and do work independently of each other, I have seen many cases where one works fine and the other doesn't. It would be great if these inspections and repairs could be done with the carbs on and not disassembled however, this is not possible, the carbs will have to be removed from the bike. Good luck!
@@JWSRepairServiceLLC so after the first stages of the job, the left side tube was off the carb.... i manualy moved the slide and it was free.... put the tube back on and will test it later today... As of now lucky break!! Your quick response was amazing and very much appreciated.... Thank you sir!!
Link to carb kit?
Sure, www.allballsracing.com your part number is 26-1619
your like Minnesota fats bro. instead of using a cue stick you use that Philips screwdriver to sink all the balls in the pockets.