Why this is a BAD design: my wireless temperature sensor!
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- An overview video of my wireless climate sensor (temperature and humidity).
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I used an ESP8266, Attiny13a, DHT22 to send climate readings to my ESPNow gateway (MQTT over Wi-Fi).
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I've been using BME/BMP280 and SHT30 for my projects which are plug-ins, not battery operated. Maybe they'll fit your needs.
I agree, cannot recommend the BME280 enough!
For my part, I use HDC1080 for precision: 2% in RH and 0.2% in T°C, low conversion consumption: 1.3µA and conversion speed: 7ms for each sensor. (In standby it consumes 100nA!)
And if we add the TPL5110 (System Timer for Power Gating) we can do without the ATtiny13A (150nA) since it consumes 35nA in Operation Mode.
It's the perfect combo for a powerful wireless battery application !
BME280 are what I plan on using for my various DIY sensors. NOTE - They are noticeably more expensive! And I haven't looked into their power use as mine will be wired...
and can supply pressure as well
i used bme280 and also tried the htu21. while both are good i would recommend the HTU21 the precision is crazy. i measure 0.040°C variation and lower consumption. the only drawback is the temp conversion takes longer so i initiate a temp conversion and go to sleep, then the next cycle starts reading it (1minute offset in case of 1 minute sampling)
Why do you cut power to the DHT22? If you'd leave it powered it would be ready for the esp8266 to read the data without waiting 2 full seconds. Its power consumption is negligible.
I forget if you have mentioned it before... Have you tried the built-in sleep function of the ESP device? I have something turning on every 10 min, reporting a temperature, and going to sleep. So far it works quite well. It is using the DS18B20.
I must be the outlier in this. I use ESP32 + DHT11 on battery powered (LP103395) sensors taking readings every 10 minutes pushing it via wifi to an MQTT server and I'm getting around 8 months per charge on the battery. I also have an SH31 variant that I'm testing, The variance between the sht31 and DHT11 is 0.5 degrees, which IMO is negligible in a domestic environment. I don't use an AT Tiny or anything to wake the esp32 I just deep sleep it - I might look more into it. I'm getting ~24uA drain when sleeping, I have a resistor divider for battery measurement (no switching) so without that I suspect it'd get to 12uA. I don't power down the dht11 at all it's power drain is tiny and the least of my current usage issues. I've seen a couple of your ESP-NOW videos and might try it out to see how it goes, my wake time is about 3.5 seconds, so I'd like to cut that as much as possible. I'm still using dhcp addressing rather than fixed IP addressing so that might account for some of it but it makes it very flexible so there's a trade off. I guess I'll also be building my own gateway, given the esp32 prices I'm happy to use 2 of them and was quite interested in your design too but I think rather than an SD card I'd use a remote config pulled at boot - or even config stored on the MQTT server.
I found that Senserion SHT family is very reliable. I'm using SHT11 in a very high humidity enviroment.
I just ordered a BME680 to use as a barometer in my Benz project car.
Sensirion SHT11 series of humidity and temperature sensor does it well.
why don't you try aht10
Have a look what sensors the inexpensive Sonoff Zigbee sensors are using. They run for a year off a coin battery. Bit of investigation says they are using the SHT30. Others are using the STHC3 or S8305
I would also, like the others, suggest that you use the bme280 with I2C interface, it also gives you the air pressure.
There is also a Bosch sensor for air quality, maybe that's a good idea for the next project.
The BME680 is also not suitable for battery operated devices at all.
It basically needs to be powered all the time, because the cold boot time (until you get stable readings) is somewhere in the minutes range - my experience, no clue what the datasheet says.
@@nnighthawk Thanks for that Information, maybe that is a solution for high capacity mobile applications with lipo cells. The sensors from Bosch are known for their low energy consuption, but nevertheless they may draw a significant current in operation.
@@donnerruebe I ran an ESP8266 with a BME280 attached to it off a 2.2 Ah 18650 cell for a while. Firmware was absolutely minimal including deep sleep (wake up every 15 minutes) with all the bells and whistles and I still had to recharge it every few days.
That was too often for my liking, but I didn't have the tools to find out what's eating the battery. Could be the BME280, could also be the ESP8266 board I used. Anyways, just don't be disappointed if your project doesn't have the battery lifetime you were expecting either. :)
Perhaps you might try using AHT20 which is a very accurate temperature humidity sensor or bme680 which is also good at energy saving.
I've been using BME280 sensors in outdoor (harsh humid) condition for over a year. Temperature and pressure readings are stable, however humidity readings are getting less and less accurate over time in high humidity conditions. After carefully reading datasheets from different humidity sensor manufacturers I realized that it's a common problem for humidity sensors. I'm planning to "bake" them and re-calibrate. I'm also using DS18B20 bare and watertight models with good results for air and ground temperature measurements. I'm using ESP8266 deep sleep mode and powering sensors from GPIO pins with minimal additional components to save power. With ESP-NOW and even highest resolution the wake time and power consumption are minimal. Let me know if you are interested in additional details.
Why waste a Tiny13 when the ESP12F or ESP12S (ESP07s too) already has an RTC clock?
You just need to connect GPIO16=D0 to RESET, then the ESP can reset itself to wake up.
The rest is software.
Only the variables in RAM are deleted.
In the RTC there is a tiny possibility to put a variable continuous there in the RAM.
Otherwise just via the EEPROM of the program memory.
try the bme280
BME/BMPXXX are good sensors
Hi Man, I really enjoy your projects, please keep doing it further and i would like to give you an idea of another project, "people counter" sensor, I did a prototype project out of a wemos d1 mini and two of "E18-D80NK Infrared Obstacle Avoidance", but is very power hungry and I don't have enough time for research ro make it battery powered, The obstical sensors can be replaced with "vl53l1x" ToF sensor, If you are interested of a such idea, I can share more info how i implemented my prototype project.
how using attiny as timer is better choice then just use esp32 timers? It must use more energy, because esp in deepsleep still have some timers power on anyway.
Don't use this shitty DHT sensors, use SHT30/31. They are really not worth using if u need accurate data. They are only good to control humidity to prevent mold, nothing more
I‘m using a SHT31. Way stabler result than the BMP280 and BME680 which I‘ve tried a long side with an DHT22 (which degraded after 1/2 year of use)
I think it's wrong to assume, that the "resistance" of the coil can't change immediately, if that resistance is a model of the behavior of the current change in the inductor (I'm not talking about the parasitic resistance). It's like pushing a heavy car on the rails: if that car moves at a constant speed, it feels like that car has no weight, and as soon as you want to accelerate it, it gets instantaneously heavy. The more you push, the heavier the car feels ... of course, we all know, the car has a constant mass, and we don't feel the mass, but the force needed for the acceleration.
Have the atTiny wake up the sensor via mosfet 2 seconds before waking the esp.
Haha, just seeing the thumbnail brings back memories of my own fuckup 2 years ago. And I even took the effort to implement a little "wall" between the esp and the temp sensor. Still the temperature was several degrees higher because of the esp-heat. In the end I put the esp to sleep for 5min between each sensor update to "fix" the problem.
I had a similar issue with ESP and PIR - lots of false triggers. Learned to keep the monster asleep :)
Why not have the attiny also control the power to the dht? After 15 min first power up the sensor, wait 2 seconds and then power up the esp. When the espdone signal comes both will be powered down. That should give the dht the time to stabilize and keep the power consumption of the esp minimal.
that is a valid idea
You should take a look at ESPHome. This requires almost no real programming knowledge. And it's easily implementable and OTA updateable via WiFi.
Any updates on this project with better sensors and battery life updates how long do batterys last?
It is in the works. DHT22 is lasting around 4-5 months on a 230mAh LiPo battery
Looks like I was lucky? I use DHT22 with my Wemos D1 (so ESP8266) in my DIY car dongle so it wakes up every ~30 minutes, reads voltage, temperature and humidity, sends via MQTT and goes to sleep. No need to use external uC for waking up and fancy internal counting and no problem with temperature reading. I have 2 DS18B20 outside and all readings seems to be similar, so no garbage data.
What is the name of the product that you are using to measure and show the current consumption graphs?
I am using this - ua-cam.com/video/qzFg5c-B1as/v-deo.html
Hi there!
Thanks for sharing your experience!
One way to save precious battery juice is to start and keep the esp8266 Rado OFF, power the DHT ON, wait the 2 seconds, take the temperature and humidity measurement and only then enable the wifi to send the data. If your board don't control the DHT power, you don't even need to wait those 2 seconds.
Like many have commented here, the atiny isn't necessary.
You can use aht10, it is TWI (two wire interface) temperature and humidity sensor. The ranges if I am not wrong are the same as Dht22, but the AHT10 uses almost no electricity compared to DHT22.
i used bme280 for temp and pressure
its humidity isnt highly accurate but probably enough. it has a sleep mode. i personally use a sht35 and bme280 to get accurate temp and humidity and pressure for my hvac systems. cause 1% humidity matters a lot for those reading and i also need pressure. also you could just turn the sensor on wait x seconds and power up the esp. normally the sensors are like 1ma usage vs the 70ma for the eap. can also use a 1wire realtime clock module to handle wakups for long periods with low battery usage.
use SHT35 its very accurate and fast
I don't know what sensor is used by Philips in their but that thing is crazy efficient. Even though it is also a motion sensor. Still think that sensor is one of the best out there. To bad they do ask an insane amount of money for it though.
Use the BME280, but use the TMP117 for temperature - it's a pre-calibrated 0.1deg sensor.
While not a full up climate sensor, I'd like to see how the temperature compares to a sparkfun tmp102, since I use that in one of my projects.
I use the BME280 sensor and it is very tiny but accurate it works over I2C.
Привет. Можешь сделать аналогичный проект для твердотельного реле? Такая круглая плата диаметром 50-60мм отлично умещается в подрозетник и может управлять светом. У готовых решений китайских друзей на плате блок питания 220в-5в, я хочу сделать без него, а питание 5в привести к выключателю дополнительно. Друг, помоги нарисовать такую плату пожалуйста.
HTU21D is also a good and cheap option. However, it will also require I2C.
Amazing project! Congrats! Quick question: Why the AtTiny is needed to wake-up the ESP? Why dont you simply connect GPIO16 to RST and use ESP.deepSleep(900e6) for waking-up in 15 minutes? Any efficiency using AtTiny?
ESP.deepSleep() actually turns off the system clock on the ESP8266. ESP.modemSleep() would prevent the clock from turning off but would probably use more energy than this AtTiny does.
I don't know if the clock is turned off, but I'm sure the ESP wakes-up after 15min with ESP.deepSleep(time)
BME680 is a good sensor with many features
looking forward to a followup to this video.
You can try AHT10