Another option, for those of us who can't spend thousands for a solid wood bookcase, but who can afford to spend a little more to make chipboard bookcases stronger, is to buy solid lumber to be your shelves. A lot of the cheap bookcases have shelves just slotted in, so you can simply replace these with pieces of lumber cut to the right length, and they will work much better than chipboard shelves. A 6ft piece of pine costs only about $20 at a DIY store (poplar or oak are stronger, but are much more expensive), and all that needs to be done is cutting it to size (this can be done at the store), then painting or staining the wood, and varnishing it.
The traditional method for keeping cheap shelves from bowing under the weight of the stuff on them, is to take a square hardwood dowel (say 3/4" x 3/4" x width of the shelf) and nail or brad it to the front edge of each shelf. It works even with no other reinforcement, for shelves that are not too deep. If you don't care what it looks like, then you can use a flat piece of aluminum instead.
Great piece Patrick (from another Patrick). I was planning on doing the same - because there is no easy solution, other than doing what you are suggesting to folks - from book shelf to book shelf to book shelf. I also have multiple book shelves as you do and I have to do the measurements and get on over to a hardware shop with wood... and stain them silver/gray...
That's how I ended up buying square slot bookshelf instead. They don't have the bowing issues. These rectangular slot are so weak with modern wood. They don't make those sturdy solid lumber shelves anymore.
Would a horizontal slat that runs along the whole bottom length of the shelf work? I was thinking of doing that close to the middle of each shelf and screwing it to each main side panel.
I'm not a collector per se, just a readaholic with many books. Been thinking on this more than I should. I'd like to find an inexpensive way to disguise vertical weight relief boards (like yours here) as books. Then they can be in the midst of the rest, not detracting, and giving some measure of relief to each shelf in my floor-to-ceiling shelves. Suggestions?
Good idea! Just wondering if you could get some thrift books and place the outside cover around the wood to disguise it. Then you'd have some support without seeing the wood?
@@barbaramills7429 Billy bookcases are also available in half width sizes with narrower shelves which would be less likely to bow. These are compatible with the optional doors, so those are still an option.
Another option, for those of us who can't spend thousands for a solid wood bookcase, but who can afford to spend a little more to make chipboard bookcases stronger, is to buy solid lumber to be your shelves. A lot of the cheap bookcases have shelves just slotted in, so you can simply replace these with pieces of lumber cut to the right length, and they will work much better than chipboard shelves. A 6ft piece of pine costs only about $20 at a DIY store (poplar or oak are stronger, but are much more expensive), and all that needs to be done is cutting it to size (this can be done at the store), then painting or staining the wood, and varnishing it.
The traditional method for keeping cheap shelves from bowing under the weight of the stuff on them, is to take a square hardwood dowel (say 3/4" x 3/4" x width of the shelf) and nail or brad it to the front edge of each shelf. It works even with no other reinforcement, for shelves that are not too deep. If you don't care what it looks like, then you can use a flat piece of aluminum instead.
Love your Bible dictionaries and commentaries. That’s exactly what I have to store too
Great piece Patrick (from another Patrick).
I was planning on doing the same - because there is no easy solution, other than doing what you are suggesting to folks - from book shelf to book shelf to book shelf.
I also have multiple book shelves as you do and I have to do the measurements and get on over to a hardware shop with wood... and stain them silver/gray...
You could wrap the board in home made printed cover so it resembles a book and the title could be something like "how to stop a bookshelf bowing" 😂
I just place my heavier book on the bottom 2 shelves. Then place smaller lighter books on the other shelves.
That's how I ended up buying square slot bookshelf instead. They don't have the bowing issues. These rectangular slot are so weak with modern wood. They don't make those sturdy solid lumber shelves anymore.
Would a horizontal slat that runs along the whole bottom length of the shelf work? I was thinking of doing that close to the middle of each shelf and screwing it to each main side panel.
Confirming what I was thinking of doing. Great minds think alike lol cheers buddy 👍
I'm not a collector per se, just a readaholic with many books. Been thinking on this more than I should. I'd like to find an inexpensive way to disguise vertical weight relief boards (like yours here) as books. Then they can be in the midst of the rest, not detracting, and giving some measure of relief to each shelf in my floor-to-ceiling shelves. Suggestions?
Good idea! Just wondering if you could get some thrift books and place the outside cover around the wood to disguise it. Then you'd have some support without seeing the wood?
Yep, I plan to upgrade to the Ikea Billy cases. Slight upgrade from the cheaper Walmart pressboard shelves.
Billy are also pressboard. But I really like them. Narrower shelves are better. Wider shelves will still require this solution after a while
@@barbaramills7429 Billy bookcases are also available in half width sizes with narrower shelves which would be less likely to bow. These are compatible with the optional doors, so those are still an option.
Great collection of Reformed literature!
I just turned the upside down every 6 months or so and eventually they gained a kind of rigidity
Excellent.
Did exactly this about 5 years ago. Works a treat.