I feel like most of the 3D gun designs never actually try to look like the guns theyre based on (e.g. plastikov, mp5, cetme). It's probably for design reasons, but it makes most of them hideous. This one looks really nice, basically like a stock AUG.
@@LastDitchHero Eh, no that's not it. I mean if you look at some of the printed handguns and PCCs, those mostly look fine even in plastic to metal redesigns (e.g. CZAR, Mac stuff, 3011). It's more the weird compositing for print bed size and odd geometry to reduce layer problems. Like look at the KF5, all the weird flanges on it etc. Or look at the printed cetme where they have the stock pin locations on the receiver override the stock. That's probably necessary for geometry, but it looks awful.
Carbon fibre Nylon can be printed on a Ender 3 with a home made enclosure. Helps if you have a nicer hot end, just a hardened steel one, can't remember what brand mine is, You'll find one. Can help if it's cold to run an heater as well just for layer adhesion. I mean you have to have a dialed in printer, but it's doable. No harder then PETG
Went looking at Vz.61 kits again today and saw these Malaysian kits. Did a quick search and found the Nylaug project and this video. Bought one almost instantly haha. This is so insanely cool.
You planning to do a build series for this? I've got a Nylaug build that is currently straight pull because I haven't put the gas block on and would like a video on that assembly.
I filed down the front half of my gas block set screws, basically took the threads off so it would go deeper in the barrel better. With my first test shoot a few days ago, I had to turn the gas plug to the second position, I ordered some green loctite 620 and will try to put some between the barrel and inside of gas block to see if that helps the gas before i resort to drilling the gas port bigger, original gas hole on barrel is 3/32, but the gas block hole is 1/8. I also tested the 300 blk barrel and I think with that one I will have to make the gas port bigger. More to follow after this weekends test fire
You can use Standard PLA for Lost pla casting, and turn 3d prints into Aluminum (or other alloys) parts. I'd love to see the 3d printed PewPew community go that direction with some of these more complete designs. They also make printing filaments that are designed for casting that burn out cleaner. Also I've been researching making composite products/parts using 3d printed molds and carbon fiber tow. which is called forged carbon fiber. A very simple process that can when done well make parts that are lighter and stronger than aluminum. A more tame example of forged carbon parts are Motorcycle break levers. quite a few hobbyists make them out of carbon and they turn out great.
I actually did that. I was going to try making a nylaug but when I was in the beta, the dudes running it locked the files so you had to solve riddles before you could open them and then I found out I couldn't even open the file format. I bought a printer just so I could build the nylaug and this annoyed the shi# out of me. I found a AUG/msar file on grabcad and learned about polycast filament and decided to give casting a try. It was easier than I thought it'd be. I modified the file so that it would accept the nylaug barrel from kak and it's worked out quite nicely.
VERY useful video! Thank you so much for doing the legwork in this video for us all. I plan on building this as soon as my filament comes in. This video clears up every question I had
What you said about 3d printed guns might have been true 10 years ago but right now the stuff coming out is almost factory type stuff. The 3dp90 the Nylaug, the mp7 ar lowers glock stuff 37mm launchers. They can all be made to look very good
Yeah, but that's all PCC stuff or handguns, not full caliber rifles. The rifles always look weird. Also we can reasonably disagree, but I've never seen a nice looking 3D AR lower. Maybe the hoffman one, but even that gives me kinda fish gun vibes. I will say the 3D glocks are dialed in though, those usually look amazing.
I will probably blind pin my gas block in place instead of using screws, they just stick out a bit too much for my taste. I've also wondered if someone's attempted to aluminum cast the receiver using polycast filament, though the shape is probably way too complicated for something like that.
I have the KAK gas block for one kit but for the stock gas block drilling jig I’ve been unable to locate the jig plans anywhere. Anyone have a lead on a website? I contacted Nylaug on their site and never received a reply.
Does anyone have ideas about the best way to remove the bbl stub from the gas block? My best idea is to cut off excess length from the stub, chuck it up, and run increasingly larger drill bits through until all the stub is removed.
saying MSARs aren't worth a crap tell me you only ever used a Gen 1. I have a Steyr, an MSAR, a TPD-AXR and the MSAR is an amazing rifle. The Gen 1s were not great but the 3s and 4s are all great rifles.
I suggest you look up the Orca by Hoffman Tactical. AR15 that is fully printed minus the bcg and barrel.. if you think printed Firearms look like poo...
I have an ender 3max. After market hotend, thermistor and enlcosure help and run a custom marlin bios. Running a second z axis motor also helps... or just buy a better printer.
Did your KAK barrel slip right in? Mine stops just shy of where the gas block would go. I’m thinking I may have to remove the barrel extension to slide the front and mid receiver sections on before putting the extension back on.
You gonna make a CETME c build soon, been waiting, and how come you don’t teach people to fit ak barrel parts for populating in your videos? Either sand the barrel or take a brake cylinder hone to turn the trunnions and other pieces. And if you turn to far a barrel knurling tool? You’re a great UA-camr, one of the best for builds, but for Pete’s sake be in depth about the CETME build like you did with your East German ak build! Btw they have 3D printing bending jigs as well as jigs for welding a picatinney and reciever to trunnion. God bless America Madge stand strong
What if you have all the parts for the Aug, original barrel and all, you just need the receiver? Will the 3d printable files work with the original Aug barrel?
It won’t work bc the oem bbl and the bolt both lock into a steel trunion, which is molded into the aluminum rec. With the nylaug, the removable bbl feature is lost. But the removable bbl is a luxury; not essential.
I’m having a helluva time trying to press out my gas block with a 20 ton press. I’ve soaked it in Kroil, heated it up, more Kroil, put it in the deep freeze overnight, heated up just the gas block so the barrel also wouldn’t get heat soaked and pressed like hell. No movement, got any tips?
Do you remember which full auto trigger/stock denial method you went with? I'm planning my build right now and I haven't decided which one to go with yet
I kinda hate you for your 3d printed gun review there bud. John Browning never cared what anything looked like to make it functional. If he had a 3d printer he would have used it to make the Harmonica Rifle.
Chromevandiumarms.com
nice on the full time gun smithing! Your videos helped me build my first AK!
I want to do this but don’t even have a printer. Where can I find information to completing this build?
@@gsGs-xb6um Google search is the best, Odysee has the download link. 3D printing is a rabbit hole so prepare yourself.
I feel like most of the 3D gun designs never actually try to look like the guns theyre based on (e.g. plastikov, mp5, cetme). It's probably for design reasons, but it makes most of them hideous. This one looks really nice, basically like a stock AUG.
It's exactly that my friend
It isn't a feel. You can't 1 to 1 metal to plastic. So it is designed thicker.
@@LastDitchHero Eh, no that's not it. I mean if you look at some of the printed handguns and PCCs, those mostly look fine even in plastic to metal redesigns (e.g. CZAR, Mac stuff, 3011). It's more the weird compositing for print bed size and odd geometry to reduce layer problems. Like look at the KF5, all the weird flanges on it etc. Or look at the printed cetme where they have the stock pin locations on the receiver override the stock. That's probably necessary for geometry, but it looks awful.
There is a flangeless KF5 now.
@@ianloughney9570.. The only thing wrong with this one is that it’s, well, it’s a Bill-pup…
-🤙🏻
this is really fucking cool, thanks for the explanation and teardown
Once metal 3d printing gets cheaper, 2A will be unstoppable
The FDM & metal printing aren't at all related processes ... I don't see metal printing or CNC ever being as cheap as FDM
Carbon fibre Nylon can be printed on a Ender 3 with a home made enclosure. Helps if you have a nicer hot end, just a hardened steel one, can't remember what brand mine is, You'll find one. Can help if it's cold to run an heater as well just for layer adhesion. I mean you have to have a dialed in printer, but it's doable. No harder then PETG
Also RTGParts has Aug Magpul and AC-Unity mags that work well
This is where the coolest things I've seen in a long time
Went looking at Vz.61 kits again today and saw these Malaysian kits. Did a quick search and found the Nylaug project and this video. Bought one almost instantly haha. This is so insanely cool.
I'll bet Hank has already called dibs on it 😆
You planning to do a build series for this? I've got a Nylaug build that is currently straight pull because I haven't put the gas block on and would like a video on that assembly.
I'd need another kit
@@BabyFacePwhat would that cost?
I filed down the front half of my gas block set screws, basically took the threads off so it would go deeper in the barrel better. With my first test shoot a few days ago, I had to turn the gas plug to the second position, I ordered some green loctite 620 and will try to put some between the barrel and inside of gas block to see if that helps the gas before i resort to drilling the gas port bigger, original gas hole on barrel is 3/32, but the gas block hole is 1/8. I also tested the 300 blk barrel and I think with that one I will have to make the gas port bigger. More to follow after this weekends test fire
Seriously, go straight for a larger gas port. They ports on these barrels are way undersized.
Thanks for the info, I replied before I got to the point were you went up to #36 @@BabyFaceP
@@richardkoeppel6207 Use the ar fcg conversion for the 300, it helps with reliability due to less bolt drag.
sweet! How heavy is the Nylaug in your configuration? The lightweight barrel and non-aluminum receiver seems to be quite the weight reduction!
You can use Standard PLA for Lost pla casting, and turn 3d prints into Aluminum (or other alloys) parts. I'd love to see the 3d printed PewPew community go that direction with some of these more complete designs. They also make printing filaments that are designed for casting that burn out cleaner.
Also I've been researching making composite products/parts using 3d printed molds and carbon fiber tow. which is called forged carbon fiber. A very simple process that can when done well make parts that are lighter and stronger than aluminum. A more tame example of forged carbon parts are Motorcycle break levers. quite a few hobbyists make them out of carbon and they turn out great.
I actually did that. I was going to try making a nylaug but when I was in the beta, the dudes running it locked the files so you had to solve riddles before you could open them and then I found out I couldn't even open the file format. I bought a printer just so I could build the nylaug and this annoyed the shi# out of me. I found a AUG/msar file on grabcad and learned about polycast filament and decided to give casting a try. It was easier than I thought it'd be. I modified the file so that it would accept the nylaug barrel from kak and it's worked out quite nicely.
Quote of the day: "John Moses Browning would laugh at you."
VERY useful video! Thank you so much for doing the legwork in this video for us all. I plan on building this as soon as my filament comes in. This video clears up every question I had
What a strange gun 😂 but so cool. You do amazing stuff, Baby Face. Keep it up!
Great work brother- love the content. Keep it up
What you said about 3d printed guns might have been true 10 years ago but right now the stuff coming out is almost factory type stuff. The 3dp90 the Nylaug, the mp7 ar lowers glock stuff 37mm launchers. They can all be made to look very good
Yeah, but that's all PCC stuff or handguns, not full caliber rifles. The rifles always look weird. Also we can reasonably disagree, but I've never seen a nice looking 3D AR lower. Maybe the hoffman one, but even that gives me kinda fish gun vibes. I will say the 3D glocks are dialed in though, those usually look amazing.
Look up the Orca by Hoffman Tactical if you want a sexy printed AR@@ianloughney9570
Now we just need 3D printable STG 44s
.005 bigger on the gas block journal would be HUGE and way too tight. Im thinkin maybe .001 would work for mine
I will probably blind pin my gas block in place instead of using screws, they just stick out a bit too much for my taste. I've also wondered if someone's attempted to aluminum cast the receiver using polycast filament, though the shape is probably way too complicated for something like that.
Isnt the grip part of the gas block? Kak gas block just straight up doesnt have that. Can i just use the gas block from the parts kit?
What material is the receiver printed from? Which filament? And on what printer? The receiver is metal right?
Magpul makes AUG mags
Nylaug looks good on you brother👌🏼
I have the KAK gas block for one kit but for the stock gas block drilling jig I’ve been unable to locate the jig plans anywhere. Anyone have a lead on a website? I contacted Nylaug on their site and never received a reply.
Does anyone have ideas about the best way to remove the bbl stub from the gas block? My best idea is to cut off excess length from the stub, chuck it up, and run increasingly larger drill bits through until all the stub is removed.
Press it out with heat or drill it if it's super stuck.
I don’t even have a 3D printer but I’m going to order a parts kit before they sell out!
Did you find a good place for the kit?
@@interdimensionaldrift maxarms
Couldn't agree with you more, 3d guns have not appealed to me...until now!
saying MSARs aren't worth a crap tell me you only ever used a Gen 1. I have a Steyr, an MSAR, a TPD-AXR and the MSAR is an amazing rifle. The Gen 1s were not great but the 3s and 4s are all great rifles.
I suggest you look up the Orca by Hoffman Tactical.
AR15 that is fully printed minus the bcg and barrel.. if you think printed Firearms look like poo...
Watched video, Downloaded files, ordered parts kit, bought barrel, fired up Bambu labs printer.
Gawd damn! I expect a report back on how it goes.
Getting started on the receiver soon haha. Needed to get the hardened steel nozzle and extruder for my bambu p1s
Where does one download the files?
@@SingularSingularity odysee.com/@Nylaug:9
Having a hard time finding a 3d printer to do this with... what would you recommend? Has to do carbon fiber nylon right?
Bambu P1S is what this was printed on
I have an ender 3max. After market hotend, thermistor and enlcosure help and run a custom marlin bios. Running a second z axis motor also helps... or just buy a better printer.
Prusa or bambu
Did your KAK barrel slip right in? Mine stops just shy of where the gas block would go. I’m thinking I may have to remove the barrel extension to slide the front and mid receiver sections on before putting the extension back on.
Can't wait for the project Nylon
You gonna make a CETME c build soon, been waiting, and how come you don’t teach people to fit ak barrel parts for populating in your videos? Either sand the barrel or take a brake cylinder hone to turn the trunnions and other pieces. And if you turn to far a barrel knurling tool? You’re a great UA-camr, one of the best for builds, but for Pete’s sake be in depth about the CETME build like you did with your East German ak build! Btw they have 3D printing bending jigs as well as jigs for welding a picatinney and reciever to trunnion. God bless America Madge stand strong
Soon soon, need a new tig welder, and for that I need some funds. But soon.
Very cool
What if you have all the parts for the Aug, original barrel and all, you just need the receiver? Will the 3d printable files work with the original Aug barrel?
it does not work on a factory AUG barrel. It's a custom (cheap) proprietary one.
It won’t work bc the oem bbl and the bolt both lock into a steel trunion, which is molded into the aluminum rec. With the nylaug, the removable bbl feature is lost. But the removable bbl is a luxury; not essential.
What filament brand
Wish I lived in the states…
You might not be able to get an AUG, but you can get a 3d printer.
@@JinKeehe might not be able to get the parts kit or the barrel.
@@scottdpugnificent that is what bedroom electrochemical machining is for. RIP JStark.
You should build an fal
Great Video!
Gun smithing full time!? Congrats!
I’ve been looking for the download I already have the kit
odysee.com/@Nylaug:9/NYLAUG-RELEASE-PACK-V1.0:f
I’m having a helluva time trying to press out my gas block with a 20 ton press. I’ve soaked it in Kroil, heated it up, more Kroil, put it in the deep freeze overnight, heated up just the gas block so the barrel also wouldn’t get heat soaked and pressed like hell. No movement, got any tips?
It's probably going to be tough without a mill, but another option is to drill out the center of the barrel stub to relieve pressure.
Does anyone make it premade? I don’t have a printer
Best place to the the Kit?
Does the barrel still quick remove
No
There is a printed 2 position safety and brass deflector. Also better top rails than that one :(
They in the same file pack or elsewhere on the web?
@@BabyFaceP the nylaug one on odysee
That rail looks like it's on backwards.
@@binsonbunch2715 it is lol, it was designed for stocks without a top nub. There's a few other variants with clearance for it.
I have that exact same rail on the printer now. It doesn't go the other way around?
Hmmm. I was thinking “why does he just chop off the extra rail? Maybe it effed up the cheek weld so he flipped it idk.
@@user-pc8tb7hg1lHandlesRDumb I thought it went the other way as well, nope.
I think kak sent me a defective barrel. The three indentations are on the bottom, not 180° opposite of the gas port.
The 1913 rail is loose or the red dot riser is loose?
The red dot is a bit loose on the rail.
@BabyFaceP Gotcha. Are aluminum rails available or do you think a printed rail will hold zero okay with something like an LPVO?
@@Tula1940_LB Nothing aluminum as far as I know but this thing does alright with a red dot. Not sure on an LPVO.
sight rail backwards
👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻
Is there a way to convert to to take ar mags?
Edit- Not easily with these full auto kits.
Yes, Steyr sells the NATO stock for $360
@flyingRich, I can't find any in stock :(
@@smokingcrab2290 steyr-arms.us/product/aug-stocks/
very cool
Which filament did you use? Brand/part #. Thanks
I clicked on this because I follow your channel.... your welcome, lol.
Do you remember which full auto trigger/stock denial method you went with? I'm planning my build right now and I haven't decided which one to go with yet
Denial block in the stock and print the hammer housing they have, it's better than modding the FA pack.
I kinda hate you for your 3d printed gun review there bud. John Browning never cared what anything looked like to make it functional. If he had a 3d printer he would have used it to make the Harmonica Rifle.
First :)
youtube unsubbed me