@@Blondihacks I am a broke retiree. Well, bent real bad. Got enough for weak instant coffee. Would like, if not an autopsy video, at least a disclosure as to what was the culprit! Thanx, Quinn! P.S.: was quite an ordeal, eh? 🤔
My electronics instructor was very adamant on getting across the potential dangers of working with high voltage. One of wonderful words of wisdom that I carry with me to this day is, “ Do all your live wiring work with one hand. Play with yourself with the other. That way if something goes terribly wrong the voltage won’t pass through your heart and you’ll still be in a good mood.” (Thank you, Mr. Biebe)
That's a good tip to eliminate hand to hand contact, but don't overlook hand to feet contact which also can put current through the area of your heart. The risk is especially high when standing on concrete which is a good conductor to earth. It only takes 100 milliamps for your heart to go into de-fibrillation. Be safe!
As you've just discovered the exciting way, components that look "low voltage" sometimes aren't. The display stopping the machine from working may have been shunting a control power supply. First suspect for those little fork encoders is dirt on the surface. The emitter and sensor are often firing through small holes, so a bit of grime can have weird effects like only detecting some of the slots.
Am I the only one that finds it strange that this is the only comment that she didn't ♥️???? Clive, you're the man, man!! I'm sure she didn't mean to not ♥️ your comment. I'll ♥️ it for her.
Just now watching this video but Clive is on the money. Equipment we have deployed in the field has a lot of opto couplers. First step is to clean them with a lint free swab and IPA. Lots quicker than automatically replacing them and sometimes it does work.
Late to the party but yup, just because it is 5 volts doesn't mean it is isolated from the mains. Depending on power supply design, the whole things can be floating on top of the mains voltage. I would have probably made that mistake too though, It is plain evil of them to not insulate the potentiometer terminals if they are indeed connected to mains somehow. I would love to see what's underneath all that potting on the driver board.
Who knew repairing a broken mill could be such an adventure. Love you for your humour, your humility in admitting mistakes and the many insights you share with your audience.
I have to tell you… I’ve been a fan of your channel for quite awhile now and have recently been binge watching your episodes. But this one in particular strikes to the heart of who I am. I am an electrician who has for the better part of 30 years fixed other peoples screwups. This episode is my life… so many times I’ve said that designers, manufacturers and most of all engineers should have to repair the things they design so they know the real world impact if the decisions they make on the drafting table. I have sediment pieces of equipment and I always think… “what if I had to replace this part”… or that part or remove that screw. Love this episode and live the channel!! Well done from a fellow resident of the empire of dirt slightly to the west. 🙏🏻☺️
Great video Quin. Patience , humour and amazing restraint in not using multiple profanities . Personally I would have put the whole feckin lot in the bin, bought a potters wheel and started a new hobby
Duly noted. You are, of course, entitled to your opinion. However, to a true novice (me) Quinn's explanations are informative, understandable and delivered in an enthusiastic manner that encourages curiosity.
@@jimthomson5996 one thing is for sure, you're level of being a jack @$$ is professional. Wondering if your electrical skills are at the same level. 😆 Think most people would agree that for a person who isn't an electrician, she does a good job and alot better job than most that are inexperienced in electrical issues. Try being a positive individual instead of a negative one. Life is a lot more enjoyable neing a positive person rather than negative. Give it a try sometime.
@@perchowski3021 Jim sounds very confident with his opinion on this subject. So, I went looking for his video expert series on electrical troubleshooting for novices. Haven't found it yet, but I'm certain it's very informative and entertaining...
Vacuum strings through challenging spaces. In larger spaces (conduit etc) add plastic bag material to increase vacuumability :) It seems support was helpful but their parts were not.
I actually had a great talk with an electrician about this recently and learned that they call the material that takes up space to aid in vacuumability a mouse.
There's nothing I enjoy more (really!) than watching someone else logic their way through a tough diagnosis and repair challenge, warts and all. My hat's off to "Blondihacks" for an instructive video, impressive on all counts. Glad you weren't shocked too badly!
Dang, Awe Shucks, and other Bad Language! No video of the mill explosion and they recently raised the height to the 11’8” bridge to 12’4” so the bridge isn’t so hungry now. Now what am I going to do for fun because I really had been waiting for the “Bing Bang Boom and the release of the magic white smoke.” PS While cutting the “buckle” of a tie-wrap is a good practice to help avoid damaging electrical wiring using “Flush-Cuts” even cheap ones are a much better tool to cut tie-wraps than diagonal cutters of any size. Opps I almost forgot to say I am glad that you got your Mill back up and running!
Absolutely one of the best machining related videos I’ve seen on UA-cam! Can’t believe I went so long without discovering your channel! Your perseverance alone has earned you a loyal subscriber !
Holy carp! It's a good thing you're an engineer! I appreciate that the vendor had good support, but ... wow. Did I mention that it's good that you are an engineer?
I have to say that customer service at Precision Matthews is top notch. I bought a mill from them about 1-1/2 yrs ago. Got it all set up and tried to install the R-8 chuck into the quill, but the draw bar would not engage into the threads of the chuck. After a lot of inspection, it became obvious that the hole in the quill for the draw bar was drilled off center at the bottom. I contacted Precision Matthews and they immediately set things in motion to help me. They contacted the factory which requested that I take some critical dimensions for them so that they could remanufacture it and hone it to the dimensions of the machine. Regrettably, it took some time to get the new quill, but it fit great and all was well. I really love my PM mill. Very handy for a home shop.
I used to work at Digital Equipment Corporation (DEC)... How many DEC field service reps does it take to fix a computer? Answer: It depends on how many bad spares they brought.
Matt and the folks at Precision Matthews are incredible. I had a similar thing go wrong with my mill and a quick change out of the control board and I was back up and running. Matt is super dedicated to customer service like no other I have encountered. I sure hope they are well compensating him because he is a true asset.
Quite true. Doing the Toucan Sam test will often at least get you in the ballpark. Definitely something to be said for keeping a cheap thermal imager on hand, too, a la This Old Tony
Absolutely! Keeping in mind the possibility of charged capacitors or (if you have forgotten to unplug) live circuits. Current through your nose seems like a bad thing.
Dykes are the best I've found for key removal. Open the jaws over key, set on shaft so handles angle upward. Squeeze handles to get a firm key grip while lifting handles to easily remove key- the tip pivots nicely on the shaft.
Hi Quinn. I'd like to suggest upgrading the machine with a VFD. You'll be able to go from 0 to 6000 rpm (or whatever your spindle bearings limit is) without ever changing pulley ratios, get vector control and adjustable torque limit, and control over the acceleration/deceleration and reverse the direction of the spindle, making tapping with the quill quite a viable option. You could even add a shaft encoder for closed loop position and velocity control. I'm not sure if your spindle motor can be driven by a VFD (some can handle permanent magnet synchronous motors), but even replacing the motor shouldn't be too bad cost wise, and could be an interesting project for many home shop milling machine users.
It's refreshing to see someone who shows their mistakes... We all make'em. BTW; I still have a few those 12v B&D NiCd drills. I have converted them to Lithium Polymer [LiPo] 4s batts = 4x3.7 = 14.8VDC. WOW!!! talk about torque! My favorite B&D is an old 24v monster with a 6s LiPo ]22.2] It's a killer...
I have a nifty 18V nicad b&d (frankly, too many 18V nicad) drill I sometimes get the itch to upgrade... Swapping in new nicad cells from Hazard Fraught doesn't give it the kick and charging speed lithium would... (The drill chuck can be removed to reveal a hex driver socket - so you can switch between drill and drive super fast, was great for pilot holes and screws in wood before I got spoiled by lithium ion.)
You are so brave to do your trouble shooting on camera along with the narrative. Many of us have been there many times so we "get it." It was easy to see the "string mistake," since it wasn't me doing it. Love your videos, Quinn. Thanks
6:18 most likely that they are using the potenciometer as a adjustable voltage divider. So the resistance is totally arbitrary. As long you don't go crazy like putting in a 1 Ohm pot, that would load the power rail to much or 10 MOhm that would be susceptible to noise injection and unwanted loading of the set voltage.
@@BlondihacksI don't know, but you can check. :) Measure the voltage on the potenciometers outer 2 connections. I would expect 5V or 12V or something like that - a stable supply voltage. Find the ground and measure the voltage on the middle pin. In these Chinese electronics, you never know - might be tuning a oscillator for the main uP for what we know :D.
This looks like a low-end VFD slightly adapted for this machine. Their analog control inputs are generally 0-10 V and the 10 V (sometimes 5 V) reference is made available on the control terminals. The control I/Os are often just GPIOs of an MCU, so pretty high impedance.
I am with@@glenntrewitt on this one. My guess is that the actual resistance of the pot is damn near irrelevant (beyond the super loose constraints mentioned by Marko). Still, you'd think they'd decide on a standard pot. Fascinating.
Thank you Blondie for your vids. As a machinist, a few years ago I was hired by a U.S. company to fix the problems that their Chinese manufacturers had created with machined parts. It was 1200 units with more units waiting to be manufactured. It was apparent that each batch of the product had different dimensions, threads and screws that were in conflict with the original drawings. That all created a problem with parts from another manufacturer that were supposed to mate up. I reported the issues to the company who hired a representative to meet with the Chinese manufacturer. The short explanation is that the parts were manufactured different depending on the day of the week and the shift. If they ran out of imperial screws, they randomly replaced them with similar sized metric screws / threads to match whatever screws they had laying around. Maddening! I mention this because it seems Precision Matthews is having the same issue with trying to get the Chinese manufacturer to supply the originally engineered electrical parts. Cheers-
Cool video. Getting zapped sucks but I tell my apprentices that it’s “learning at the speed of light”. I also have tried swapnostics in a few of my repairs...
The similar style Grizzly mill I had blew a board (one of three I think it was) and their Support just threw parts at it until we got the problem addressed. Then the Precision Matthews 3/4 B-port clone mill I got to replace it had a tight collet key in the quill, and I wrecked the nut not realizing it had reverse-threads. Matt had a replacement shipped for free from Taiwan even after I admitted fault. The key was retained with a double setscrew, so this video had it all going on for me. I'm presently looking at selling my Atlas lathe to replace with a Precision Matthews, so I'm glad to see they are still service-oriented.
Woot! I saw the pully alignment problem coming. With all of the Chinese fire drill that you've been through on this thing, I figured that the new motor's shaft couldn't possibly be the same length.
For anybody who has never messed with electronics the covers on electrical devices is there for the purpose of hold the smoke in. Back when I was running CNC equipment in our Tool Room we had a 1980s Slant Bed CNC lathe fitted with a new Fanuc control. Everything thing was working great. Now the new controls input and display was put into the old control panel on the sliding door. One day I'm running a job with multiple parts and there's drill about 4 inches deep in the part and the X axis tries to home and index at the same time. The Machine sounded like that old joke dash plate for German cars. The one that mentioned krashen bangs und spitzensparken. Turned out that the was a small chip of metal that was hanging on a screw that fell off and caused all the trouble by falling on some contacts.
My tip on electrical connector removal. I have worked on laser printers which have many connectors on various boards I would use a number of felt tip various color markers. I would start with a single colored line on the male and female connector, then go to two lines (3 lines, etc.) on the next connector and change colors as needed until all connectors were marked. This has made reinstallation much easier.
Looks like the "Gremlins were putting bricks in front of your wheel barrow", both in component failure and supply 😱😱. Great job Quinn, thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK. John
The vacuum hose trick is killer and works every time! You might want to try out a set of standard and metric Bondhus Hex T-Handles. They have kept me from using lots of "colorful language" in my line of work.
I’ve made the mistake of unintentionally pulling out a draw wire on several occasions and I find putting a vacuum on one end and feeding a string in the other works a treat
Wow, what a saga. Glad I'm not the only one this happens to :) I have a PM 27V, and it stopped working, but without the fireworks. I thought it might be the internal fuse. Got a new one, tested it before I put it in, and no luck. Tested all the switches, power, etc, but no luck. Many hours of trouble shooting.... Finally decided to replace the replacement fuse, and everything came back to life. As it was, I had twisted the fuse in replacing it and twisted the fuse wire which broke internally while looking intact to visual inspection!
I am incredibly impressed with not only your extensive skill sets but even more so your infinite patience in dealing with this litany of woe! I would have gone out of my mind halfway through this experience that can only be described as the epitomy of Murphy's Law. And to take the time to document the entire procedure for our benefit even as one thing after another goes wrong is equally impressive. I am thinking of purchasing the same mill and can only wonder what I would do if all those events happened to me. One can't exactly just ship a machine back to the manufacturer when it fails. Great work all around.
Somewhere a board manufacturers kid gets to take an extra friend to spring break. Somewhere a tech has a bin full of boards that flooded the mailbox as a well intentioned but misdiagnosed effort to correct an issue. Red herrings sporting mosfets. Who knew? This vid should be required viewing for a world of social mediacentric techs who want pay for skills born out of watching curated content where everything is solved in a cleanroom shop and a McMaster Carr bookmark. This is one of those rare vids that catches the real reality. Sometimes you have to be able to troubleshoot for yourself even moreso when someone is being " helpful." Quinn, you give me hope. You are rare.
An excellent demonstration of using the ole parts cannon to fix something. Sometimes its the fastest way to get back in business but you'll deprive yourself of those oh-so-satisfying John Aaron moments.
Who says you are not as funny as This Old Tony? This is quality content! More, more, more... You were very generous not berating the OEM, Random Precision for rapid albeit lacklustre support.
Glad you got it fixed. I have to share my experiences with the same Mill. Just for comedic enjoyment and commiseration. I had every single one of the problems you did when my motor went out. Every single one. Except, I also had the following extra fun additional problems. 1. My replacement motor had a 12mm shaft, where my older motor had a 10mm shaft. 2. No new Pulley included. Had to bore out the old pulley, and re cut a new keyway (at least I could align the keyway with the setscrews this way!) 3. The new circuit board did not fit my enclosure.. requiring a whole new enclosure assembly. And $500 for the pleasure since i was out of warranty. 4. My speed replacement speed control was a completely different type, using magnetics instead of optics. I still haven't gotten this working (mostly out of frustration). Anyway, good video, just had to share. I laughed at each step. B
Wow - thank God for the amazing support, a rare thing these days. Ive been down similar rabbit holes before and they can be seemingly endless and your patience is to be applauded, this kind of thing can get on your very last nerve. Nice work.
"I didn't want to risk any metal chips getting in there..." as you vacuum all around the big pile of copper chips on the machine. Glad you got it working again and didn't permanently injury yourself in the process.
THANK YOU!!!!! For the info on the "Knob collet". Mine got loose after I pulled it incorrectly and been test other garbage knobs. Factory one back on there now. Thank you.
God Bless You, you're very patient. Rather than buying the nice new mill you bought, I bought a 50 year old Bridgeport from a shop that was going CNC. Ending up replacing the motor, but otherwise no probs.....yet. My baby is plenty worn, so no ultra precision, but she's comfortable and works just fine. $1200 Texas surplus prices.
I realize this is an older video, but here's a neat little trick for routing wires around corners. You had the right idea with the string, but next time try using a vacuum cleaner to suck the string through some mazes. It works well when running network wiring through some tubes, but it also works well in some other tight spaces.
Wow, that was a horror story.you have the patience of a watchmaker and the calm resolve of determination to get the job done. I've learned over the years to not get overly upset on these things mainly because I've never seen a machine respond positively to anger. Glad to see you kept your sense of humor during the process, good program as always Quin thanks.
At 5:18 you said "there's a little nut holding it on the front". It reminded me of when I recently took my car to a mechanic, and I overheard him telling the supervisor that the only problem with that car is there's a loose nut behind the wheel. This is the first I've seen of the fuel-hose/grommet trick. Great video, keep up the good work.
Re fish tape, tell ya what, sometimes a roll of baling wire is your bestest friend, ever. It's enjoyable watching you discover the stuff I've been doing for a living for decades
A lot of modern potentiometer curcuits don't actually care what the pot value is, as they tie to GND, +5v, and the wiper goes to a microcontroller. So the micro is just figuring out how far the pot is turned, treating the pot as a variable voltage divider; only interested in the ratio, not the actual resistance.
Wow poor girl, reminds me of why I no longer work as an industrial electrician. Your motor probably burnt out because the cooling fan speed was a bit low for the amount of current you were drawing or it could be that the dust cover itself was preventing fresh air from passing over the motor. I would recommend that you install an electric extraction fan for cooling on your dust cover and make sure that fresh air can get in.
Quinn - OMG are you from planet earth ?, how does someone so young embody the vast volume of knowledge you have ? . Always amazed how technical smart you are in mechanical, computer systems and now electrical. I also loved the humor throughout the video, “even the self electrocution. Great Job. BB
Well Quinn, I have to admit that there is some satisfaction in seeing that a person with your talents can have days (weeks) like some of us mortals. Good job on tracing down all of the glitches in that repair! Well done!
I never laughed so hard in my life. You are definitely a comedian technician machinist person. 😂. I have a PM-935 and a PM-1440BV that I purchased from Matt also. He is the best customer service I have ever dealt with. Great equipment also.
I have had some joy in removing the grommet and feeding the wire through the hole, then the grommet then reassembling the grommet. Give a little bit more room. Also heat copper wire can be used as the guide as it is partially steerable. Nice video and good to see I’m not the only one who has to have several reassembies when doing a repair!
Quinn, using a 50p piece to act as a makeshift screwdriver! If only her majesty Queen Elizabeth II was aware of this. Very interesting video, nice methodical approach to sorting out all the issues.
Step one, remove plug from mains socket, Step two, check for blown electronics board fuse. Note, that’s an antique test meter, I have the same one and I know it was several decades since I bought mine. Tandy Electronics. Love your channel, good info, straight to the nitty gritty without um’s and er’s, repetitive phrases, etc. worth my time to watch. Happy Day’s from the‘ Southern Cross Observatory , Tasmania 42 South. 👍🛠🔭🇬🇧🇦🇺
Ehhhh usually....electricity can be summed up in the famous saying with a caveat. What ever does not kill you makes you stronger....except electricity. Always use your off hand inside a live panel, why because its easier to wipe your arse afterward. Is how it was taught to me 25 odd years ago.
Excellent repair job. Enjoyed every minute. And a pro tip. when messing with electricity try not to ground your self. It is because of the fact that you're touching the metal case of the mill that is grounded that you turned your self into a light ball. Sorry to say it but I laughed hard when you screamed, guess it' because I've been there lots of times. Keep up the good stuff
The potentiometer is probably being used as a voltage divider so the resistance is not important. Chinese welders use the same ones on the foot control. A controlled voltage (usually 12v or 5v) is fed into it. One side goes to ground and the other is the input voltage to the control board. That voltage will vary from 0V to the maximum voltage fed into the potentiometer. It is very unlikely that is used as a variable resistor considering all 3 leads are being used. If it was only 2 leads would be used or 2 leads would be bonded with 2 wires going to it. Edit: finished watching. The different speed ranges with the potentiometer is probably because one is logarithmic (common for audio applications) and the other is linear.
the same thing just happened to my machine just 3 weeks ago. checked the motor, OK checked and replaced the on/off switch and big Red button and Nada! it was the speed controller. Great video
Good grief, what a roller coaster! 😂 Isn't it fascinating how often a basic repair or simple maintenance procedure becomes a lesson on how to completely rebuild whatever we're working on? I'm new to your channel and love it, great stuff and the comedy is gold too! 👏👏👏
Very funny video, I like all of your videos, but this one is the best. I have almost the same mill, just a different barnd name. After the first crash, I replaced the motor controller and motor by a 3 phase 1.5 kW 400 volt motor, controlled by a VFD. Since that time the mill rans without any problem and has much more torque to the shaft and is much more quiet. But go ahead like this, it's a great job.
Hopefully this isn't an endemic issue with this mill because mine is on order! Thanks for the great videos on milling, its what led me to purchase this one.
I’m case no one has mentioned, those small white connectors look like JST connectors used a lot in rc cars. They are removable. Just gently push down the tab and the pin will pull out the back. To reinstall, just push the pin back into the connector until it clicks.
I have solved the mystery of the spare screw, its mine, My mill was missing 2 screws on arrival so someone else has a spare screw rolling about somewhere. The rubber gloves you usually use might of saved you the tickle you got. Thanks for sharing your ordeal and i'm pleased its fixed(we can now get some more milling videos) I noticed your first controler was a 220v converted over to 110v by simply using a sharpie 😂😂 Its amazing what people in china can invent. Mine is 220v too. A great video.
As one of the very few survivors of a 4,160V electrical shock/explosion (arc flash), YES ALWAYS keep one hand away! But at that voltage, it doesn't really matter as it will jump a 2 foot gap on a humid day. Went in one wrist, out out the other, with resulting explosion leaving me even uglier than before, but have some cool scars on hands/wrists that always results in some very interesting ice breakers at social gatherings. By the way vaporized copper plasma is about 4 times the temp. of the surface of the sun, (40,000 F) the sound wave exceeds 160dB, and the blast wave of molten metal exceeds 700mph! Enough to boil the water from your eyes, lips, skin instantly, disintegrate ear drums, collapse lungs, and catapult a 200lb man 40' after going through a 1' thick brick wall!
I applaud you for making everything workout , it would have driven me up the wall. That’s why I love old iron, if something breaks, the part you buy on Ebay will most likely fit.
I absolutely loved this video. My job at work is writing software for manufacturing equipment and I have done many tool installs in Singapore, Ireland Israel etc... While I am only expected to test the software, I need a working tool to do that. So I spend 3/4 of my time fixing wiring mistakes, finding loose connectors, cavitating pumps, teaching robot points and so on. You seem like a kindred spirit and I love the can do attitude you have. I am also left wondering how on earth you knew my secret pleasure was watching the can opener bridge videos! They just raised it yet another 8" and it still is too low lol.
No one ever claimed the Chinese build two of anything.... Every time I have repaired a piece of Chinese electrical equipment, the repair parts are not direct replacements or in some way incompatible.... I am impressed with the support you received!
There are at least two other 12V NiCad battery-operated drills still in existence. My workplace has 2 'Bosch' units. We've had them for about 12 years. Finally replaced the batteries with some eBay sino-units last year. In comparison to the Metabo 18V lithium one we have they lack torque. But they have enough for the tasks at hand. One good thing is that you get some warning when the battery is nearly exhausted, unlike the Metabo that goes until it suddenly stops. Without warning. When you are part way through tapping something.
Just a thought...but you should sweep up all those copper chips and then make a cheap homemade forge (like a king of random style forge if you don’t have a forge) so you could easily melt that copper back into a small ingot for later use. I did that with the chips from my copper lap project and it worked great. Ps. Might be a cool video idea.
Thanks so much for sharing your journey, including the snags. I am pretty clueless about electrical stuff as I have not had to tear down enything more complicated than a coffee maker. But, it is good to smoke my brain on occasion. Eventually this will all start to make sense. I enjoy your humor. Crazy there we so many different parts from one kit to the other!
I was hoping you were going to open up the old motor and look for the explosion
I did do that, in fact, over on Patreon. Sign up there to see it!
@@Blondihacks Ah, I see
@@Blondihacks lol
@@Blondihacks what a clown
@@Blondihacks I am a broke retiree. Well, bent real bad. Got enough for weak instant coffee. Would like, if not an autopsy video, at least a disclosure as to what was the culprit! Thanx, Quinn! P.S.: was quite an ordeal, eh? 🤔
My electronics instructor was very adamant on getting across the potential dangers of working with high voltage. One of wonderful words of wisdom that I carry with me to this day is, “ Do all your live wiring work with one hand. Play with yourself with the other. That way if something goes terribly wrong the voltage won’t pass through your heart and you’ll still be in a good mood.” (Thank you, Mr. Biebe)
Especially if you like electro play
That's a good tip to eliminate hand to hand contact, but don't overlook hand to feet contact which also can put current through the area of your heart. The risk is especially high when standing on concrete which is a good conductor to earth. It only takes 100 milliamps for your heart to go into de-fibrillation. Be safe!
@@danengerer5767 always play on a rubber mat.
As you've just discovered the exciting way, components that look "low voltage" sometimes aren't. The display stopping the machine from working may have been shunting a control power supply. First suspect for those little fork encoders is dirt on the surface. The emitter and sensor are often firing through small holes, so a bit of grime can have weird effects like only detecting some of the slots.
Am I the only one that finds it strange that this is the only comment that she didn't ♥️???? Clive, you're the man, man!! I'm sure she didn't mean to not ♥️ your comment. I'll ♥️ it for her.
Just now watching this video but Clive is on the money. Equipment we have deployed in the field has a lot of opto couplers. First step is to clean them with a lint free swab and IPA. Lots quicker than automatically replacing them and sometimes it does work.
The display is using 5V (system power supply), just as the potentiometer does. Pull them to ground and the system won't start up.
Late to the party but yup, just because it is 5 volts doesn't mean it is isolated from the mains. Depending on power supply design, the whole things can be floating on top of the mains voltage. I would have probably made that mistake too though, It is plain evil of them to not insulate the potentiometer terminals if they are indeed connected to mains somehow. I would love to see what's underneath all that potting on the driver board.
Who knew repairing a broken mill could be such an adventure. Love you for your humour, your humility in admitting mistakes and the many insights you share with your audience.
I have to tell you… I’ve been a fan of your channel for quite awhile now and have recently been binge watching your episodes. But this one in particular strikes to the heart of who I am. I am an electrician who has for the better part of 30 years fixed other peoples screwups. This episode is my life… so many times I’ve said that designers, manufacturers and most of all engineers should have to repair the things they design so they know the real world impact if the decisions they make on the drafting table. I have sediment pieces of equipment and I always think… “what if I had to replace this part”… or that part or remove that screw. Love this episode and live the channel!! Well done from a fellow resident of the empire of dirt slightly to the west. 🙏🏻☺️
This is why I much prefer to open a panel and find a smoldering crater, makes diagnosis much easier.
After many observations and careful inspections I can made the diagnosis that something broke
This, shit stains can be very helpful in electrical diagnosis!
Great video Quin. Patience , humour and amazing restraint in not using multiple profanities . Personally I would have put the whole feckin lot in the bin, bought a potters wheel and started a new hobby
This was priceless! Your problem solving ability, electrical knowledge and sense of humor are fantastic
Agreed, that is why I subscribed.
Disagree. She isn't even at the level I would call an electrical novice.
Duly noted. You are, of course, entitled to your opinion. However, to a true novice (me) Quinn's explanations are informative, understandable and delivered in an enthusiastic manner that encourages curiosity.
@@jimthomson5996 one thing is for sure, you're level of being a jack @$$ is professional. Wondering if your electrical skills are at the same level. 😆
Think most people would agree that for a person who isn't an electrician, she does a good job and alot better job than most that are inexperienced in electrical issues.
Try being a positive individual instead of a negative one. Life is a lot more enjoyable neing a positive person rather than negative. Give it a try sometime.
@@perchowski3021 Jim sounds very confident with his opinion on this subject. So, I went looking for his video expert series on electrical troubleshooting for novices. Haven't found it yet, but I'm certain it's very informative and entertaining...
Vacuum strings through challenging spaces. In larger spaces (conduit etc) add plastic bag material to increase vacuumability :) It seems support was helpful but their parts were not.
Oh damn- that's a great idea. I'll try that next time!
I use cotton balls on kite string, then work your way up as needed.
@@nickb2245 Brilliant, I'm definitely putting that in my dusty mental bag of tricks! Thanks!
I actually had a great talk with an electrician about this recently and learned that they call the material that takes up space to aid in vacuumability a mouse.
did you get that idea from watching someone suck a golf ball through a garden hose???
There's nothing I enjoy more (really!) than watching someone else logic their way through a tough diagnosis and repair challenge, warts and all. My hat's off to "Blondihacks" for an instructive video, impressive on all counts. Glad you weren't shocked too badly!
"I was just sitting there, milling my own business"
Your quips crack me up every time.
Dang, Awe Shucks, and other Bad Language! No video of the mill explosion and they recently raised the height to the 11’8” bridge to 12’4” so the bridge isn’t so hungry now. Now what am I going to do for fun because I really had been waiting for the “Bing Bang Boom and the release of the magic white smoke.”
PS While cutting the “buckle” of a tie-wrap is a good practice to help avoid damaging electrical wiring using “Flush-Cuts” even cheap ones are a much better tool to cut tie-wraps than diagonal cutters of any size.
Opps I almost forgot to say I am glad that you got your Mill back up and running!
Absolutely one of the best machining related videos I’ve seen on UA-cam! Can’t believe I went so long without discovering your channel!
Your perseverance alone has earned you a loyal subscriber !
So, a classic case of "the only thing wrong was everything?"
22:58 - 'Trial and Error' - I have a box of that somewhere...!
24:28 An equilateral curve heptagon! I look forward to the episode on machining such a shape.
Holy carp! It's a good thing you're an engineer! I appreciate that the vendor had good support, but ... wow. Did I mention that it's good that you are an engineer?
Who's got two thumbs and is the shortest path to ground? Gotta love it!
👍 👍
Thumbs up for the dubbed in Chinese location.
That was funny.
You have a lot of patience,I’ll tell ya that for free. Good Job!
I have to say that customer service at Precision Matthews is top notch. I bought a mill from them about 1-1/2 yrs ago. Got it all set up and tried to install the R-8 chuck into the quill, but the draw bar would not engage into the threads of the chuck. After a lot of inspection, it became obvious that the hole in the quill for the draw bar was drilled off center at the bottom. I contacted Precision Matthews and they immediately set things in motion to help me. They contacted the factory which requested that I take some critical dimensions for them so that they could remanufacture it and hone it to the dimensions of the machine. Regrettably, it took some time to get the new quill, but it fit great and all was well. I really love my PM mill. Very handy for a home shop.
Our Blondie is not only a tech guru, but a poet too.
I fully approve.
I used to work at Digital Equipment Corporation (DEC)... How many DEC field service reps does it take to fix a computer? Answer: It depends on how many bad spares they brought.
I worked for several competitors to DEC. The real answer is NONE. ITs a SOFTWARE PROBLEM
DEC was great.
Good friend of mine has an original DEC Live Free or Die UNIX Licence Plate.
I applaud your fortitude in getting this repaired. I take comfort in knowing it's not just me that experiences these sagas...
I loved the poem, too!
Matt and the folks at Precision Matthews are incredible. I had a similar thing go wrong with my mill and a quick change out of the control board and I was back up and running. Matt is super dedicated to customer service like no other I have encountered. I sure hope they are well compensating him because he is a true asset.
You never mentioned the sniff test. The sniff test is the quickest method I know to track down electrical malfunctions involving magic smoke.
I concur!
Quite true. Doing the Toucan Sam test will often at least get you in the ballpark. Definitely something to be said for keeping a cheap thermal imager on hand, too, a la This Old Tony
Absolutely! Keeping in mind the possibility of charged capacitors or (if you have forgotten to unplug) live circuits. Current through your nose seems like a bad thing.
Dykes are the best I've found for key removal. Open the jaws over key, set on shaft so handles angle upward. Squeeze handles to get a firm key grip while lifting handles to easily remove key- the tip pivots nicely on the shaft.
Hi Quinn. I'd like to suggest upgrading the machine with a VFD. You'll be able to go from 0 to 6000 rpm (or whatever your spindle bearings limit is) without ever changing pulley ratios, get vector control and adjustable torque limit, and control over the acceleration/deceleration and reverse the direction of the spindle, making tapping with the quill quite a viable option. You could even add a shaft encoder for closed loop position and velocity control.
I'm not sure if your spindle motor can be driven by a VFD (some can handle permanent magnet synchronous motors), but even replacing the motor shouldn't be too bad cost wise, and could be an interesting project for many home shop milling machine users.
Replacing the motor is on my long term project list. With a nice motor and a VFD, this thing could do a whole lot more.
When you need your mill to fix your mill... you need ToT's time machine...
David Shippers but do not time travel in metric.
Bad things happen in metric time travel.
what if ToT breaks his lathe
It's refreshing to see someone who shows their mistakes... We all make'em.
BTW; I still have a few those 12v B&D NiCd drills.
I have converted them to Lithium Polymer [LiPo] 4s batts = 4x3.7 = 14.8VDC.
WOW!!! talk about torque! My favorite B&D is an old 24v monster with a 6s LiPo ]22.2] It's a killer...
I have a nifty 18V nicad b&d (frankly, too many 18V nicad) drill I sometimes get the itch to upgrade... Swapping in new nicad cells from Hazard Fraught doesn't give it the kick and charging speed lithium would...
(The drill chuck can be removed to reveal a hex driver socket - so you can switch between drill and drive super fast, was great for pilot holes and screws in wood before I got spoiled by lithium ion.)
You are so brave to do your trouble shooting on camera along with the narrative. Many of us have been there many times so we "get it." It was easy to see the "string mistake," since it wasn't me doing it. Love your videos, Quinn. Thanks
6:18 most likely that they are using the potenciometer as a adjustable voltage divider. So the resistance is totally arbitrary. As long you don't go crazy like putting in a 1 Ohm pot, that would load the power rail to much or 10 MOhm that would be susceptible to noise injection and unwanted loading of the set voltage.
It may also be part of an RC circuit, though, in which case the total resistance matters quite a bit.
@@BlondihacksI don't know, but you can check. :) Measure the voltage on the potenciometers outer 2 connections. I would expect 5V or 12V or something like that - a stable supply voltage. Find the ground and measure the voltage on the middle pin. In these Chinese electronics, you never know - might be tuning a oscillator for the main uP for what we know :D.
This looks like a low-end VFD slightly adapted for this machine. Their analog control inputs are generally 0-10 V and the 10 V (sometimes 5 V) reference is made available on the control terminals. The control I/Os are often just GPIOs of an MCU, so pretty high impedance.
My guess is that the center terminal goes straight into a microcontroller's analog input - high impedance, and you're done.
I am with@@glenntrewitt on this one. My guess is that the actual resistance of the pot is damn near irrelevant (beyond the super loose constraints mentioned by Marko). Still, you'd think they'd decide on a standard pot. Fascinating.
Thank you Blondie for your vids. As a machinist, a few years ago I was hired by a U.S. company to fix the problems that their Chinese manufacturers had created with machined parts. It was 1200 units with more units waiting to be manufactured. It was apparent that each batch of the product had different dimensions, threads and screws that were in conflict with the original drawings. That all created a problem with parts from another manufacturer that were supposed to mate up. I reported the issues to the company who hired a representative to meet with the Chinese manufacturer. The short explanation is that the parts were manufactured different depending on the day of the week and the shift. If they ran out of imperial screws, they randomly replaced them with similar sized metric screws / threads to match whatever screws they had laying around. Maddening!
I mention this because it seems Precision Matthews is having the same issue with trying to get the Chinese manufacturer to supply the originally engineered electrical parts. Cheers-
Cool video. Getting zapped sucks but I tell my apprentices that it’s “learning at the speed of light”. I also have tried swapnostics in a few of my repairs...
The similar style Grizzly mill I had blew a board (one of three I think it was) and their Support just threw parts at it until we got the problem addressed. Then the Precision Matthews 3/4 B-port clone mill I got to replace it had a tight collet key in the quill, and I wrecked the nut not realizing it had reverse-threads. Matt had a replacement shipped for free from Taiwan even after I admitted fault. The key was retained with a double setscrew, so this video had it all going on for me. I'm presently looking at selling my Atlas lathe to replace with a Precision Matthews, so I'm glad to see they are still service-oriented.
Woot! I saw the pully alignment problem coming. With all of the Chinese fire drill that you've been through on this thing, I figured that the new motor's shaft couldn't possibly be the same length.
For anybody who has never messed with electronics the covers on electrical devices is there for the purpose of hold the smoke in.
Back when I was running CNC equipment in our Tool Room we had a 1980s Slant Bed CNC lathe fitted with a new Fanuc control. Everything thing was working great. Now the new controls input and display was put into the old control panel on the sliding door. One day I'm running a job with multiple parts and there's drill about 4 inches deep in the part and the X axis tries to home and index at the same time. The Machine sounded like that old joke dash plate for German cars. The one that mentioned krashen bangs und spitzensparken. Turned out that the was a small chip of metal that was hanging on a screw that fell off and caused all the trouble by falling on some contacts.
My tip on electrical connector removal. I have worked on laser printers which have many connectors on various boards I would use a number of felt tip various color markers. I would start with a single colored line on the male and female connector, then go to two lines (3 lines, etc.) on the next connector and change colors as needed until all connectors were marked. This has made reinstallation much easier.
Looks like the "Gremlins were putting bricks in front of your wheel barrow", both in component failure and supply 😱😱.
Great job Quinn, thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK. John
you have a Jedi level of persistence and patience... clearly, the force was with you.
The vacuum hose trick is killer and works every time!
You might want to try out a set of standard and metric Bondhus Hex T-Handles. They have kept me from using lots of "colorful language" in my line of work.
I’ve made the mistake of unintentionally pulling out a draw wire on several occasions and I find putting a vacuum on one end and feeding a string in the other works a treat
Wow, what a saga. Glad I'm not the only one this happens to :) I have a PM 27V, and it stopped working, but without the fireworks. I thought it might be the internal fuse. Got a new one, tested it before I put it in, and no luck. Tested all the switches, power, etc, but no luck. Many hours of trouble shooting....
Finally decided to replace the replacement fuse, and everything came back to life. As it was, I had twisted the fuse in replacing it and twisted the fuse wire which broke internally while looking intact to visual inspection!
Ouch! I've done that one too! I have a habit of testing all fuses with an ohmmeter now. I don't trust looking at them. 😀
I am incredibly impressed with not only your extensive skill sets but even more so your infinite patience in dealing with this litany of woe! I would have gone out of my mind halfway through this experience that can only be described as the epitomy of Murphy's Law. And to take the time to document the entire procedure for our benefit even as one thing after another goes wrong is equally impressive.
I am thinking of purchasing the same mill and can only wonder what I would do if all those events happened to me. One can't exactly just ship a machine back to the manufacturer when it fails. Great work all around.
Somewhere a board manufacturers kid gets to take an extra friend to spring break. Somewhere a tech has a bin full of boards that flooded the mailbox as a well intentioned but misdiagnosed effort to correct an issue. Red herrings sporting mosfets. Who knew?
This vid should be required viewing for a world of social mediacentric techs who want pay for skills born out of watching curated content where everything is solved in a cleanroom shop and a McMaster Carr bookmark. This is one of those rare vids that catches the real reality. Sometimes you have to be able to troubleshoot for yourself even moreso when someone is being " helpful."
Quinn, you give me hope. You are rare.
Aww, thanks! ☺️
An excellent demonstration of using the ole parts cannon to fix something. Sometimes its the fastest way to get back in business but you'll deprive yourself of those oh-so-satisfying John Aaron moments.
Who says you are not as funny as This Old Tony? This is quality content! More, more, more...
You were very generous not berating the OEM, Random Precision for rapid albeit lacklustre support.
Glad you got it fixed. I have to share my experiences with the same Mill. Just for comedic enjoyment and commiseration. I had every single one of the problems you did when my motor went out. Every single one. Except, I also had the following extra fun additional problems.
1. My replacement motor had a 12mm shaft, where my older motor had a 10mm shaft.
2. No new Pulley included. Had to bore out the old pulley, and re cut a new keyway (at least I could align the keyway with the setscrews this way!)
3. The new circuit board did not fit my enclosure.. requiring a whole new enclosure assembly. And $500 for the pleasure since i was out of warranty.
4. My speed replacement speed control was a completely different type, using magnetics instead of optics. I still haven't gotten this working (mostly out of frustration).
Anyway, good video, just had to share. I laughed at each step.
B
Wow- even more parts variation than I imagined possible. These machines are an adventure.
Wow - thank God for the amazing support, a rare thing these days. Ive been down similar rabbit holes before and they can be seemingly endless and your patience is to be applauded, this kind of thing can get on your very last nerve. Nice work.
I'm considering the purchase of the PM 1340 Lathe made in Taiwan. It's good to hear that PM support is so good.
How cool is this ...every guy I know would get nervous what to do but Quinn just fixes her mill as it would be the easiest thing on the planet 😇
"I didn't want to risk any metal chips getting in there..." as you vacuum all around the big pile of copper chips on the machine. Glad you got it working again and didn't permanently injury yourself in the process.
Copper is too pretty to hurt anything.
THANK YOU!!!!! For the info on the "Knob collet". Mine got loose after I pulled it incorrectly and been test other garbage knobs. Factory one back on there now. Thank you.
I really like watching your videos because you show the real life things, mistakes and all! The same things I do. Great learning topics! Thanks !!
I wasn't prepared for your poetry, as I was consuming a glass of milk at the time. Milk came out nose, after rhyme exposure.
One spit take per video is my goal, so thanks for letting me know I reached it!
@@Blondihacks It was brilliant. You have many talents. The prose is always top level, but this is over the top !
At least it wasn’t a carbonated beverage
God Bless You, you're very patient. Rather than buying the nice new mill you bought, I bought a 50 year old Bridgeport from a shop that was going CNC. Ending up replacing the motor, but otherwise no probs.....yet. My baby is plenty worn, so no ultra precision, but she's comfortable and works just fine. $1200 Texas surplus prices.
I realize this is an older video, but here's a neat little trick for routing wires around corners. You had the right idea with the string, but next time try using a vacuum cleaner to suck the string through some mazes. It works well when running network wiring through some tubes, but it also works well in some other tight spaces.
I can vouch for this!
you must be one of the smartest blondies i've ever seen. great job there 👍
Wow, that was a horror story.you have the patience of a watchmaker and the calm resolve of determination to get the job done. I've learned over the years to not get overly upset on these things mainly because I've never seen a machine respond positively to anger. Glad to see you kept your sense of humor during the process, good program as always Quin thanks.
I've tried punching machines, but that just seems to make them angrier.
At 5:18 you said "there's a little nut holding it on the front". It reminded me of when I recently took my car to a mechanic, and I overheard him telling the supervisor that the only problem with that car is there's a loose nut behind the wheel. This is the first I've seen of the fuel-hose/grommet trick. Great video, keep up the good work.
Re fish tape, tell ya what, sometimes a roll of baling wire is your bestest friend, ever. It's enjoyable watching you discover the stuff I've been doing for a living for decades
A lot of modern potentiometer curcuits don't actually care what the pot value is, as they tie to GND, +5v, and the wiper goes to a microcontroller.
So the micro is just figuring out how far the pot is turned, treating the pot as a variable voltage divider; only interested in the ratio, not the actual resistance.
Awesome diagnostics skills! Mechanical, electrical and just plain logic. Love it!
Wow poor girl, reminds me of why I no longer work as an industrial electrician. Your motor probably burnt out because the cooling fan speed was a bit low for the amount of current you were drawing or it could be that the dust cover itself was preventing fresh air from passing over the motor. I would recommend that you install an electric extraction fan for cooling on your dust cover and make sure that fresh air can get in.
With Blondihacks and ABom79 I have a complete machining duo.
Quinn - OMG are you from planet earth ?, how does someone so young embody the vast volume of knowledge you have ? . Always amazed how technical smart you are in mechanical, computer systems and now electrical. I also loved the humor throughout the video, “even the self electrocution. Great Job. BB
Aww, thanks! ☺️
Well Quinn, I have to admit that there is some satisfaction in seeing that a person with your talents can have days (weeks) like some of us mortals. Good job on tracing down all of the glitches in that repair! Well done!
I never laughed so hard in my life. You are definitely a comedian technician machinist person. 😂. I have a PM-935 and a PM-1440BV that I purchased from Matt also. He is the best customer service I have ever dealt with. Great equipment also.
Here in New Zealand we call this "a mission". Excellent repair, and great that you had such good support!
I have had some joy in removing the grommet and feeding the wire through the hole, then the grommet then reassembling the grommet.
Give a little bit more room. Also heat copper wire can be used as the guide as it is partially steerable.
Nice video and good to see I’m not the only one who has to have several reassembies when doing a repair!
Quinn, using a 50p piece to act as a makeshift screwdriver! If only her majesty Queen Elizabeth II was aware of this. Very interesting video, nice methodical approach to sorting out all the issues.
Most of those battery covers are designed for a coin-drive (vs a normal screwdriver)... So, in this case, proper tool used!
Step one, remove plug from mains socket, Step two, check for blown electronics board fuse. Note, that’s an antique test meter, I have the same one and I know it was several decades since I bought mine. Tandy Electronics. Love your channel, good info, straight to the nitty gritty without um’s and er’s, repetitive phrases, etc. worth my time to watch. Happy Day’s from the‘ Southern Cross Observatory , Tasmania 42 South. 👍🛠🔭🇬🇧🇦🇺
The one arm/hand advice is doubly important when fiddling around in the breaker box for your house. It'll still hurt but you won't be dead.
Ehhhh usually....electricity can be summed up in the famous saying with a caveat. What ever does not kill you makes you stronger....except electricity.
Always use your off hand inside a live panel, why because its easier to wipe your arse afterward. Is how it was taught to me 25 odd years ago.
Wow, that is some REAL perseverance! Good effort.
Radio Shack DVM...takes me back. Only one thing to say: VICTORY! Hard won at that.
i have the older version of that one. sad that radio shack went to crap then went under
My. You are a card-carrying piece of work. Intelligent and entertaining. Thanks for another peerless video. 😎
Excellent repair job.
Enjoyed every minute.
And a pro tip. when messing with electricity try not to ground your self.
It is because of the fact that you're touching the metal case of the mill that is grounded that you turned your self into a light ball.
Sorry to say it but I laughed hard when you screamed, guess it' because I've been there lots of times.
Keep up the good stuff
The potentiometer is probably being used as a voltage divider so the resistance is not important. Chinese welders use the same ones on the foot control. A controlled voltage (usually 12v or 5v) is fed into it. One side goes to ground and the other is the input voltage to the control board. That voltage will vary from 0V to the maximum voltage fed into the potentiometer. It is very unlikely that is used as a variable resistor considering all 3 leads are being used. If it was only 2 leads would be used or 2 leads would be bonded with 2 wires going to it.
Edit: finished watching. The different speed ranges with the potentiometer is probably because one is logarithmic (common for audio applications) and the other is linear.
the same thing just happened to my machine just 3 weeks ago. checked the motor, OK checked and replaced the on/off switch and big Red button and Nada! it was the speed controller. Great video
You should see the electronics in my mini mill, It makes an Arduino look expensive
Good grief, what a roller coaster! 😂 Isn't it fascinating how often a basic repair or simple maintenance procedure becomes a lesson on how to completely rebuild whatever we're working on? I'm new to your channel and love it, great stuff and the comedy is gold too! 👏👏👏
Very funny video, I like all of your videos, but this one is the best. I have almost the same mill, just a different barnd name. After the first crash, I replaced the motor controller and motor by a 3 phase 1.5 kW 400 volt motor, controlled by a VFD. Since that time the mill rans without any problem and has much more torque to the shaft and is much more quiet. But go ahead like this, it's a great job.
Hopefully this isn't an endemic issue with this mill because mine is on order! Thanks for the great videos on milling, its what led me to purchase this one.
I’m case no one has mentioned, those small white connectors look like JST connectors used a lot in rc cars. They are removable. Just gently push down the tab and the pin will pull out the back. To reinstall, just push the pin back into the connector until it clicks.
Without a doubt...the best video I have seen in years 😍 🙌
I have solved the mystery of the spare screw, its mine, My mill was missing 2 screws on arrival so someone else has a spare screw rolling about somewhere. The rubber gloves you usually use might of saved you the tickle you got. Thanks for sharing your ordeal and i'm pleased its fixed(we can now get some more milling videos) I noticed your first controler was a 220v converted over to 110v by simply using a sharpie 😂😂 Its amazing what people in china can invent. Mine is 220v too. A great video.
Yah that sharpie work caught my eye also. 😏
Never, ever troubleshoot-repair without supervision by the shop cat.
I also still have the Black and Decker 12v drill! 15 years old and still going strong. Great video. Dean in Oxfordshire UK.
My hat is off to you girlfriend. I would have done more than an "Empirical Hand Shake" with all the set backs during this repair. OMG great job!!!
As one of the very few survivors of a 4,160V electrical shock/explosion (arc flash), YES ALWAYS keep one hand away! But at that voltage, it doesn't really matter as it will jump a 2 foot gap on a humid day. Went in one wrist, out out the other, with resulting explosion leaving me even uglier than before, but have some cool scars on hands/wrists that always results in some very interesting ice breakers at social gatherings. By the way vaporized copper plasma is about 4 times the temp. of the surface of the sun, (40,000 F) the sound wave exceeds 160dB, and the blast wave of molten metal exceeds 700mph! Enough to boil the water from your eyes, lips, skin instantly, disintegrate ear drums, collapse lungs, and catapult a 200lb man 40' after going through a 1' thick brick wall!
Uggh. Every so often I consider upgrading to a "modern" machine. Stories such as these make me keep my Rockwell 21 working.
That grommet using tubing was ingenious!! Thanks for that.
I applaud you for making everything workout , it would have driven me up the wall. That’s why I love old iron, if something breaks, the part you buy on Ebay will most likely fit.
I absolutely loved this video. My job at work is writing software for manufacturing equipment and I have done many tool installs in Singapore, Ireland Israel etc... While I am only expected to test the software, I need a working tool to do that. So I spend 3/4 of my time fixing wiring mistakes, finding loose connectors, cavitating pumps, teaching robot points and so on. You seem like a kindred spirit and I love the can do attitude you have. I am also left wondering how on earth you knew my secret pleasure was watching the can opener bridge videos! They just raised it yet another 8" and it still is too low lol.
No one ever claimed the Chinese build two of anything.... Every time I have repaired a piece of Chinese electrical equipment, the repair parts are not direct replacements or in some way incompatible....
I am impressed with the support you received!
There are at least two other 12V NiCad battery-operated drills still in existence. My workplace has 2 'Bosch' units. We've had them for about 12 years. Finally replaced the batteries with some eBay sino-units last year. In comparison to the Metabo 18V lithium one we have they lack torque. But they have enough for the tasks at hand. One good thing is that you get some warning when the battery is nearly exhausted, unlike the Metabo that goes until it suddenly stops. Without warning. When you are part way through tapping something.
Just a thought...but you should sweep up all those copper chips and then make a cheap homemade forge (like a king of random style forge if you don’t have a forge) so you could easily melt that copper back into a small ingot for later use. I did that with the chips from my copper lap project and it worked great.
Ps. Might be a cool video idea.
Wow! Great video on a tough problem. I love your patience and persistence.
Thanks so much for sharing your journey, including the snags. I am pretty clueless about electrical stuff as I have not had to tear down enything more complicated than a coffee maker. But, it is good to smoke my brain on occasion. Eventually this will all start to make sense. I enjoy your humor. Crazy there we so many different parts from one kit to the other!
@19:30 Thanks! That safety stuff is all boring book knowledge until someone steps up and really puts it to the test.
Your perseverance should be applauded, I think I'd have just given up and bought a new mill.