Thank you for a great instructional series of videos. Kirk is definitely a master woodturner, and a great teacher, just the right pace, sufficient theory without becoming boring, and the odd bit of humor to lighten the lesson up a bit. I have learnt so much throughout the series. Thanks again!
Kirk, thanks for the refresher with the clubs and symposiums down for the count the last 2 years not much turning going on these days, miss the Utah Symposium.
Watched all Kirk's videos. Very informative. Hope for more to come! Great craftsmanship! Love your sense of humor! Thank you from Czech Republic! Keep it up!
Excellent series of videos. Thanks for sharing, thanks for the time and effort. Your catalog is outstanding I have purchased many tools from you over the years. Thanks
Yikes! With that thin stem I was afraid to pause the video. I haven't made goblets with stems this thin and long but now see how it's done. Nice goblet in the end.
20:26 can you please explain why you spend the time to face off the end only to drill and turn away most of it? Why not drill and hollow the bowl and then facing the remaining 1/8 to 1/16” rim? I see the same approach with metal lathe work and CAM milling and wonder why. Thank you.
You want to face it off while all the fibers are supported. If you hollow the bowl then go back to clean up the rim, it will most likely tear out as it is end grain fibers.
So, probably a stupid question: Are these made for decorations, or for use? How much are they usually sold for, based on a simple piece of wood, like Walnut or Cherry? Are they normally sold as a Single Goblet, or in a set? Thanks for the video! I watched your Box video last night, and made my first box today. That one was fun lol. I'll try a goblet tomorrow
Any chance you guys can do same series but witj carbide tip tools??? I know most don't like them but for those of us just starting we could use those videos too
That's a great idea - thank you for your input! Not sure we'll have time to do an entire series - but I agree with the need to expand on our videos with carbide tools.
Isn't the wood moving at 3200 rpm whether your cut is 1/4" from center or 2.5" from center? Just confused as to why the reference is used to 8k rpm by multiplying 2.5" by 3200rpm.
Actually, no - the further from the center of the piece, the faster the wood is travelling . It's a quirk of physics and I'm sure there are really good explanations out there. The gist is this - the entire piece is rotating at the measured RPM, but a point on the edge has to travel a much greater distance than a point in the middle to maintain that RPM, so it travels much faster than a point closer to the center. The same thing happens with car/bike tires. Or if you've ever spun a child in circle by holding their hands and spinning - their feet are traveling a lot faster than you are in the center. Hope this makes some sense?
@@CraftSuppliesUSA good explanation! Let me tell you what has me confused, please. If I am doing centerwork on a piece 6" in diameter, and use a sharpie to mark two dots on the endgrain...Dot 'A' is 1 inch from center, and Dot 'B' is in the edge...3" from center, and the lathe is set to 3500 RPM, they are both going to spin around center 3500 times in 60 seconds, one just travels alot faster than the other! :P and one cuts alot more wood! Edit : it sounds like it would have to be measured in a unit other than rpm.... or maybe I am just being difficult here! :P
@@eclear4evr Think of RPM as more of a frequency as opposed to a speed. It measures how often something happens (e.g. one rotation) given time. Speed requires a distance to calculate. So while Dot A and Dot B are travelling with the same frequency, Dot B has a greater distance to cover in the same time and is therefore going faster. So the larger your diameter is, the lower you need to make your frequency in order to maintain a balance of 6K-9K. If it helps, I never even think of the 6-9K number as an RPM. It's just my safe zone that I know the product of my RPM and size need to land between.
Don't get confused by RPM numbers. With each revolution a dot on the edge of the wood travels a distance of 2*pi*R where R is the radius of the cylinder. It is the circumference of the cylinder. That is the amount of distance the wood travels in 1 revolution past the gouge. So a wood 1 inch in radius travels 5 times less distance than a wood 5 inches in radius past the gouge in 1 revolution.
Great question - it's explained in depth in the first video of the series. It's a simple way to determine safe lathe speeds, especially for beginners. Diameter x RPM = 6,000 - 9,000. The 6-9k number is NOT RPM, it's just a range that was determined by Dale Nish as a ballpark to shoot for. If you do the math and the result is lower than 6,000 you won't be cutting efficiently and might want to speed up. If the result is greater than 9,000 you probably want to slow down since you're turning a such a high speed that it becomes dangerous. ua-cam.com/video/XubeZKjCmeU/v-deo.html
Did you recommend touching a hot tool to your tongue? Because the tongue heals faster than your finger. Sorry but you should not be showing anyone how to do anything..sorry.
Thank you for a great instructional series of videos. Kirk is definitely a master woodturner, and a great teacher, just the right pace, sufficient theory without becoming boring, and the odd bit of humor to lighten the lesson up a bit. I have learnt so much throughout the series. Thanks again!
Beautiful goblet 👍
Thank you!
Thanks so much Kirk and everyone involved in making these videos. This series has been incredibly helpful as I learn to turn.
Great to hear! Thanks for the feedback.
Exceptional instruction... Thank you! Finished pieces are beautiful!
Thanks - we appreciate the feedback
Oh Kirk, the bacon joke has me rolling. Excellent video as always
Thanks 👍
Kirk, thanks for the refresher with the clubs and symposiums down for the count the last 2 years not much turning going on these days, miss the Utah Symposium.
An excellent demonstration Kirk.
Thanks - glad you liked it
Nice looking goblet
Really informative and a proper education.
Thanks for a great series.
Another great video! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Watched all Kirk's videos. Very informative. Hope for more to come! Great craftsmanship! Love your sense of humor! Thank you from Czech Republic! Keep it up!
So glad you enjoyed the videos!
This is incredibly well explained. The best teacher I even listen to. It makes me want to go in my shop and try everything I just learned. Thanks!
👌one word... Fantastic !!!!!!!
Thank you so much 😀
Excellent series of videos. Thanks for sharing, thanks for the time and effort. Your catalog is outstanding I have purchased many tools from you over the years. Thanks
Great refreasher especially if you haven't donr it in a very long time thank you so much!!
You're welcome!
très bonne pédagogie, merci pour toutes ces informations précises et maitrisées.
That's awesome. I'll have to try that out
Old time turner here and I am soo against wood being wasted like this.
Just incredible
Excellent instructional video.
Thank you!
The stems on those are insanely thin. I have never turned anything that thin myself. They look so good though.
Hahah, Kirk's dry ass humor is the best.
Very nice!
Excelente trabalho
Nice teaching
Great demonstration. I just have one question though.. just what is wrong with bacon? 😊
Great video as always, Kirk! Hope all is well in Provo and at Craft Supplies? Cheers!
Thank you!
Yikes! With that thin stem I was afraid to pause the video. I haven't made goblets with stems this thin and long but now see how it's done.
Nice goblet in the end.
Did you use a spindle gouge to hollow out the bowl of the goblet?
Why would it mater if your blank is quarter sawn? Is it not all the same once its round?
26:20 Using your tongue to test how hot a sharp chisel is. Yeah, best of luck with that one.
20:26 can you please explain why you spend the time to face off the end only to drill and turn away most of it?
Why not drill and hollow the bowl and then facing the remaining 1/8 to 1/16” rim?
I see the same approach with metal lathe work and CAM milling and wonder why. Thank you.
You want to face it off while all the fibers are supported. If you hollow the bowl then go back to clean up the rim, it will most likely tear out as it is end grain fibers.
So, probably a stupid question: Are these made for decorations, or for use?
How much are they usually sold for, based on a simple piece of wood, like Walnut or Cherry? Are they normally sold as a Single Goblet, or in a set?
Thanks for the video! I watched your Box video last night, and made my first box today. That one was fun lol.
I'll try a goblet tomorrow
Majority of wood turnings end up being used decoratively
Any chance you guys can do same series but witj carbide tip tools??? I know most don't like them but for those of us just starting we could use those videos too
That's a great idea - thank you for your input! Not sure we'll have time to do an entire series - but I agree with the need to expand on our videos with carbide tools.
TYVM 😁
Just wondering why Kirt didn't use a steady rest while making the goblet
I wish you'd show to tools in detail a little better for those, like myself, who don't know what everything is yet.
Isn't the wood moving at 3200 rpm whether your cut is 1/4" from center or 2.5" from center? Just confused as to why the reference is used to 8k rpm by multiplying 2.5" by 3200rpm.
Actually, no - the further from the center of the piece, the faster the wood is travelling . It's a quirk of physics and I'm sure there are really good explanations out there. The gist is this - the entire piece is rotating at the measured RPM, but a point on the edge has to travel a much greater distance than a point in the middle to maintain that RPM, so it travels much faster than a point closer to the center.
The same thing happens with car/bike tires. Or if you've ever spun a child in circle by holding their hands and spinning - their feet are traveling a lot faster than you are in the center. Hope this makes some sense?
@@CraftSuppliesUSA good explanation! Let me tell you what has me confused, please. If I am doing centerwork on a piece 6" in diameter, and use a sharpie to mark two dots on the endgrain...Dot 'A' is 1 inch from center, and Dot 'B' is in the edge...3" from center, and the lathe is set to 3500 RPM, they are both going to spin around center 3500 times in 60 seconds, one just travels alot faster than the other! :P and one cuts alot more wood!
Edit : it sounds like it would have to be measured in a unit other than rpm.... or maybe I am just being difficult here! :P
@@eclear4evr Think of RPM as more of a frequency as opposed to a speed. It measures how often something happens (e.g. one rotation) given time. Speed requires a distance to calculate. So while Dot A and Dot B are travelling with the same frequency, Dot B has a greater distance to cover in the same time and is therefore going faster. So the larger your diameter is, the lower you need to make your frequency in order to maintain a balance of 6K-9K. If it helps, I never even think of the 6-9K number as an RPM. It's just my safe zone that I know the product of my RPM and size need to land between.
Don't get confused by RPM numbers. With each revolution a dot on the edge of the wood travels a distance of 2*pi*R where R is the radius of the cylinder. It is the circumference of the cylinder. That is the amount of distance the wood travels in 1 revolution past the gouge. So a wood 1 inch in radius travels 5 times less distance than a wood 5 inches in radius past the gouge in 1 revolution.
Where did you get the range of 6k minimum and 9k maximum rpm at 2.5" from center?
Great question - it's explained in depth in the first video of the series. It's a simple way to determine safe lathe speeds, especially for beginners. Diameter x RPM = 6,000 - 9,000. The 6-9k number is NOT RPM, it's just a range that was determined by Dale Nish as a ballpark to shoot for. If you do the math and the result is lower than 6,000 you won't be cutting efficiently and might want to speed up. If the result is greater than 9,000 you probably want to slow down since you're turning a such a high speed that it becomes dangerous.
ua-cam.com/video/XubeZKjCmeU/v-deo.html
@@CraftSuppliesUSA awesome tha k you! I will watch this!
Damn
, I want this lathe so bad. Does anyone know what brand and, possibly, model this is?
It is a Powermatic 3520C. 😊
Did you recommend touching a hot tool to your tongue? Because the tongue heals faster than your finger. Sorry but you should not be showing anyone how to do anything..sorry.
Clear he was deadpanning... While Kirk is a master turner, he won't get center stage on comedy night...