There are many agency-affiliated instructional videos on the web, many providing good information on different aspects of diving. However, your videos are consistently the most useful I have come across, ranging from very detailed demonstrations of diving essentials such as this one, to discussions of diving philosophy. Your points on equipment configuration (the ISE take on DIR) and approach to diving make excellent sense, and I have as a result re-thought and made small but significant modifications to my twinset configuration. Your blunt assessments of diving 'nonsense' I find refreshing. Excellent work, I look forward to your next video!
I most certainly agree with Greg below. Some instructional videos are pretty lame, but THIS video here is NOT! The gentleman doing this instructional video is easy to understand, takes his time in the explanation segment(s), and gives a CLEAR view of EACH process. He is a most excellent teacher, + I'd go diving with him anytime!
I had to set up my new gear today and my Instructor, Mike van Splunteren, wasn't around to help me, so I came straight to the ISE channel to look for this video that I saw last year when you published it. Thank you, Achim. This is such a great help! Also, thank you for the high quality education that you have put into ISE training programs. There's no way back!
Best Didactics ever I sometimes watch this video to relax... after a long day at work. Four years ego I was living on tropical island I had the absolute pleasure and honour to dive few times with the gentleman in this video. It was probably dive number 20 for me away from the McDonald’s diving skills i was trying to forget Dive number 20 using Hongarthian configuration i meant.. Amazing time really i end up throwing away my bcd old fins knife re-educate myself to the real art of surviving underwater. His knowledge and the actual skills are at the top of the DIR tach and recreational Diving industry. Thanks a lot Akim Regards from london I hope one day I can dive again with you..n Mike Thank you and Safe Diving 👈🏻
Great discussion & demonstration! I've been using the method described in your ISE video, but I recently found the Prusik Knot technique presented in a Prana Dive video that seems more elegant in that it better controls the wrapped line. I'm going to try it out. A thought: While many of the videos on tying boltsnaps address where to tie it along the length of the hose (ex: a handwidth from the 2nd stage), none discuss controlling the position of where you tie it radially around the circle of the hose. Acknowledging that the angle the boltsnap can make with the hose can be radially adjusted about 190 degrees when constrained by properly-tied cave line, having it in the wrong position around the circumference of the hose (since the hose cannot rotate) can make clipping it off awkward, as well as having it poke you in the cheek for the one used to clip off your reg. I find the correct position by setting up a tank and reg on my BC and running the hoses to find the right orientation as the hoses naturally curl to their diving positions. The key is using the natural curled position of the hoses in the diving position. I wrap a piece of painter's tape on the hose adjacent to the installation position, use a Sharpie to mark the best boltsnap location on the tape, then tie it on. That way, the boltsnap is optimally located for use when diving. Thanks and keep up the good work!
Wow…. This is a great video. I also enjoy your “that’s just stupid” communication style. We have strayed away from just saying how things are. I learned some great stuff from you today…. And now need to go re-tie some bolt snaps…. Shamefully. Lol
Thanks. Very useful. I've used this technique to attach boltsnapt to lights, GoPros, etc. I also learned from your tackling video how to mark and wrap my boltsnaps with a similar orange hi-viz line. Easy to identify above and under water and improves grip.
I love your videos, and your attention to detail. There are a number of things I have picked up from you, in terms of my sidemount configuration. Keep them coming!!
Very helpful and useful explanations. I appreciate that this is the correct way to tie the knots and position the boltsnap. But just an idea: 1. Why not simply use a cord or an elastic band that breaks at a tensile force of approx. 200N (a bit stronger for the backup light), so that that we can break by hand in an emergency situation 2.Why do we have to use cave line that we have to cut right next to the hose (with stiff frozen fingers at the end of the dive...)
Nice demos, although I disagree with having a snap permanently attached to a primary reel. The reason is that a primary reel should already be in your hand when entering an overhead environment, so there is no chance of entanglement. You should not be swimming around through restrictions with a primary reel attached. When operating a primary reel you also don't want a snap hanging off it to catch on itself. Everything else I 100% agree with. Good demo!
Great video, thanks for sharing! I've lost a backup light because the reef knot failed (after years it untied). What I do now is the same, but I also secure them with a loose zip tie. It's loose so it doesn't bend/break, but in the case the knot fails it will catch it. Please let me know if you have any better ideas! Cheers
Love the videos.... I have seen on some of your videos you use a double ended on the regulator instead of a bolt snap. I would like to try it but do not see a video. I have elbows on my side mount regs. If I attach to the elbow they are hard to clip off if I tie to the hose the flop around a lot. I think the double ended will be great solution. Thoughts? Can you make a video?
A really informative video. Thanks very much for posting. A lot of subscribers seem to have the same question regarding the caveline, myself included - what diameter is it that you use and do you have a link for where a large spool can be purchased please? Several searches for braided nylon line have been unfruitful and the one purchase I made from eBay was not the same as the line you use!
Hi Ray, the line is 2mm. like standard cave line. if you want to have the orange one I ue you can contact me at achim@is-expl.com and I can help along with this. I have them in 600 MEter spools but can deliver smaller quantities as well.
Good video, I use those knots to secure my gear too. I do sometimes use cable/zip ties to secure things though. Very quick to do and still quite easy to cut through.
Hi, thanks. We try to avoid cable ties as the tend to breack when you twist them and they get brittle (well most of them) when exposed to UV-Light (sun). But they are for sure a great "quick fix" - hey we would still be in the caves without duct tape and cable ties :-D
If I'm not mistaken and my eyes tell me right, Achim uses a #24 cave line (24 refers to the number of strands). It's, approximately, 1.8mm in diameter. This is the typical for reels and spools. You can find from #18, that is very tiny, up to #48, that is used permanently in caves.
What kind of line should be used? Does it have to be nylon? Is polypropyeln just as good? (I know, spare line from a reel could be used, but let‘s assume I don‘t wanns do this).
For a rented regulator scenario where one would only need it for a weeks diving from the local dive shop, is it ok to use a zip tie instead for a quick job?
Thank you Achim and InnerSpace Explorers for the very good advices. Very helpful tips and information. I have a quastion about your wrist watch. Probably is a scubapro Mantis or Meridian. Can I have your opinion about these 2 models and the suuntos? (or in one of the next videos...) Thanks!!
Hi Marios, Yes, it is a Mantis - and meanwhile a Mantis 2. I use it basically as a daily watch and as a simple Bottomtimer in recreational dives. (Gauge mode). As a computer I find it a bit hard to read and the menue is not really intuitive. (But that can be a subjective problem of an old man with glasses:-D )
Just a question , It seems you have very little line between the object and the snap , I normally dive with an EZY-CUT(Original in caves , ceramic in Salt) and a titanium line cutter , now I don't think the EZY-CUT could cut that connection and I think the titanium line cutter may struggle to find the little bit of line , I'd say I would probably have to resort to sawing with the saw on the cutter which would eventually cut it likely making it blunt as I draw the the teath over either snap or torch body. Is there something I am missing do my little little 1-2cm gaps have any significant draw backs ?
Hi, we want the snap to sit as snug as possible. I never expirieced any probems when cutting one off. Zhe best thing would be to make a few samples an test cuts to be sure it works with what you use. I tried an ezycut and it worked great.
I dropped some quickglue to knots I tied to boltsnap. Lines still need burning because glue makes line ends stiff and kinda sharp. Is glue ok I want to ask?
yes - I do this on all my takelings for the boatlines
2 роки тому
@@CoastalDevelopment yep. I mean im still looking will the glue make where glue line ends and line starts, could line snap on that point. But im not too serious on those things. Just nice part of the hobby to rig your gear.
awesome video! Thanks for sharing! I will try to learn these from your video soon. Can you suggest me some good brands of line I can buy in Europe? It's better in Nylon or Kevlar? Thank you C.
HI Chris, the material used on most spools is sold as "braided nylon". stores that provide line for commercial fishermen usually have it as it is used to fix nets. A lot of divers also use paracord from Kevlar in various shiny colors. This is also ok - but the line is usually thinner which can be an issue if you use thick gloves
Hi ... I'm watching your video. I am not accustomed to English, so I have limited understanding. From 14: 10 onwards, a bolt snapshot appears on spg Why ? Should I use Big Eye Bolt Snaps? Is it because your fingers have to go in? I heard it somewhere, but I want to check it out ....... Thanks for the video
I'm not a big fan of attaching regulators with an unbreakable bolt snap. I attach mine, always, with a break away attachment in case I need it in a hurry.
@@starbuggle I use a small bolt snap attached to my regulator hose via an O ring and tie strap. That way, if I need it in a hurry it will breakaway with a pull.
CoastalDevelopment - InnerSpace Explorers - ISE Send me an email of what you would need to do a class out here. I'm sure I can find participants.. rclark450@gmail.com
Because I have the habbit it sticking my finger through the eye of the snap when I take it to the front to look at it. That way I can even open my palm and not loose the SPG which means I do not have to relocate it to clip it back.
What I don’t like about the clip on the regulator hose is the added weight pulls the mouthpiece out of your mouth. You would bite down harder giving you jaw fatigue
i wnated to order the orange wetnotes and maybe other stuff coz it is my fav color :-) but the link SHOP on ise website took me to some strange eBay shop with aramturen and windshields...?? disappointed. :-(
I don't understand how one would quickly cut away the regulator retaining bolt snap when it's attached with cave line - that seems like perfect retention for things like flashlights, gauges, etc, where if you need them removed in an entanglement situation you can then easily cut away because everyone can breathe just fine so no real rush just take your time and be precise, but that seems much too secure in the event of needing to share air in an emergency, I can just picture my buddy drowning as I fumble with the scissors or dive knife because of a stuck bolt snap, surely better to just replace the oring connection at regular intervals no? I"m curious what your thoughts are on this and if I'm missing something critical
The critical piece you missed is the better option that is not clipped off and is bubbling enticingly to your panicked buddy (the reg in your mouth). The main reason that primary reg would be clipped off is because there's a THIRD reg being used (deco stage).
@@pbillings808 you mean the regulator on a lanyard? Why do tech diving agencies bother having a long hose that's clipped then? I think you may be confused, or simply not explaining your point very well
@@testpipedh22a Discussing backmount with a long hose primary regulator, a necklaced secondary regulator, and an optional tertiary regulator on a deco stage. That long hose reg is either being used by diver #1 -- and therefore available to give to the buddy -- or it's been clipped off and diver #1 is on the deco stage -- and *that* is therefore available to give to the buddy. At no time does the bolt snap on the long hose need to be sawed off or even unclipped in seconds to keep someone from drowning. Edit: If you're worried about the specific case where someone only has a long primary and necklaced secondary (no deco stage), I'd ask why are they on the secondary with primary clipped in the first place at a depth where an out of air occurrence would be an issue (i.e., not at a safety stop)?
Very well done and documented, Achim, as usual. About the tie on the reel, how can the boltsnap be prevented from getting entagled in the line, especially on fast release such as deploying the SMB?
Hi Alberto, The snap is on the opposite side of where the line deploys so an entaglement is basically not possibe. As with all of this - a solid education - demo of "how to" and proper training of thoses skills is esential. I can only repeat myself that these vidoes can only be appertizers and give hints and some tricks but they do not substitute face to face training with a proffesional.
13:50 It is called maintenance. You frame the solution as crap with an arrogant non verbal trow away gesture but the only " problem" is you have to change the o-ring once every year as part of your regular maintenance and as a plus you get a good break-connection which you should have for every second stage connection. You solution "you can always cut is with a knife" does not meet the paradigm things should be simple and accessibel in case of emergency. I rather prefer to loose a bolt snap or suffer the inconvenience of a broken o-ring and a dangling second stage than playing with knifes in a no air situation because of a tight connected bold snap.
Well I guess you do things for the only one truth - yours - without the need to contradict any objections. You reaction at first in 13:50 and now to me does not leave room for any falsification and thus for new ideas and possible optimizations. I do things to make diving saver. Based on your reaction and your poor argumentation it looks you are doing things to keep-up your paradigm. That o-rings need to be changed isn't an argument agains o-rings. It's an argument for maintenance. Change o-rings like you do with all your o-rings. No please answer why a breaking-connection is worst than a tied one for a second stage bolt snap. Sunshine and wear and tear doesn't do it for me.
You dont get it and wat to argue for the sake of arguing, so this does not make any sense - and again - you miss the concept - completely. Your statement of "than playing with knifes in a no air situation because of a tight connected bold snap." makes crystal clear that you have no idea of what we do, why we do it - that you never took the time to have a look at the etiry concept and for shure have no expireince in what we do. in a technical dive and a challanging environment with multible gases I do not want gear to break - I want to fixed at a defined place and I want to have 100% control. a breakaway can break as the name indicates - and it will at some point - no matter if services or not (no idea why you implement that we shortcut service of gear) it can break because I pump into something etc. And usually this happens in the worst moment. (ever hear of the spiral of death? - sounds like drama - but accidents develop - they do not just happen. some small thing goes wrong - that causes discomfort or distraction. that lead to the next problem, and so on) So I want my stuff fixed. BUT as I want 100% control i also do not want metal to metal - i want to bea able to cut it away if the shit hits the fan. No - no tplaying around with a knife in azero vis while out of gas - that was your term - but for example with a z-knife that cuts the line but is too narrow to cut the hose - and if you would take the time to look at the system you would realize that the reg is breathable even if clipped due to the position of the snap (because it is a system) and now service your o-rings - I am arrogant and have no idea and you know better - fantastic.
I do want everything tight and fixed and I do respect your videos and instructions. For that I do not miss the argument. But I disagree with you about the unbreakable bolt snap connection for the second stage and I find your arguments against this too light. I switched from the exact connection you demonstrate in 13:50 to a breakable connection of my second stage because of an incident at the worst of times. My buddy (student) made a mistake and needed air and I just finished my gas switch. My student ended up with a clipped long hose he could not reach or unclip and a broken mouthpiece on his secondary. Luckily a saw his mistake happening and he was cool enough to wait for my rapid unclipping of my long hose. But with big gloves and 4 degrees water it could easily end up in a spiral of death (yep the same one you mentioned). This problem could have been solved earlier by having a breakable connection on the second stage for my buddy. But also for me. Thought I had a good and rapid reaction, I feel much more comfortable by being able to break to connection. Now, your worry about the rubber of the o-ring becoming bad over time could easily be solved by adding the change of the o-ring as part of you maintenance. And I did not imply you do not maintain your gear. Now for my part, yes, I also experienced a broken o-ring with this connection and it only lead to a dangling second stage. Not being able to breath of give air is worst to my humble opinion.
Oli4Post, you sound like a cantankerous, ill-tempered old bosomhead, that just ENJOYS being confrontive! Ever occur to you that perhaps you HURT Herr Achim's feelings??? You OWE him an APOLOGY, you MEAN old man!
Hej, very informative and very useful video but wondering at the end when you make a final knot it's little bit different between when you tie a boltsnap to main reel and to prim reg/spg (you put the line one more time through the bolt aye) ? MvH Igor K
it is called "caveline" but when you buy you look for "braided Nylon Line" it must not swim! if not in your divestore or online you might have a look it commercial fish supply stores.
Thanks. No - it shoult NOT be a break away as it shows that these break at the worst moment. Furthermore the concept is as obsolet as the "ditchable weightbelt" the longhose is either in your mount or in you hand. so there can be no situation when you need to deploy while it is clipped unless you breath from a stage. If you vreath from a stage you donate the reg in your mout8h as well (donate what you breath as you know the reg works and it is the correct gas) So again no need to break it away, In the unlikely event that someone needs it while clipped it is still usable if the clip is installed correct (one hand width back the hose) - hope this helps
You could also make these connections better & faster to setup. 1. For pouches, light, reels, etc. with direct metal attachments you can find saltwater certified small nylon loops & tie a slip not like you did to both pieces of gear & tie off in the end of each so the don’t slide (but they shouldn’t). 2. For regulators & gauges use stainless steel bolt-clamps on the hoses & tie off as in #1 above. They are made to secure to hoses, but not damage them. These take 10 seconds each, require almost no skill, & can be repeated with same results everytime, even on a dive boat between dives.
However on the flip side the cave live is long time tested and proven as an extremely effective solution. Low cost can be done in the field with a bit of cave line, scissors and a BIC lighter or torch. Adds no additional weight especially for regulator uses. This method of cave line will not damage the hoses and by far most importantly can easily be cut away with your dive knife or dive scissors in the event a snap gets entangled or entrapped in a structure or pice of gear. After you install a few of these it really doesn't take but a minute of time and has many benefits over manufactured hose clamps often times coming with rubber hose protectors imposing more unnecessary crap to the kit and entrapping additional salt and sand rubbing the hose down. Cheers, #SeattleRingHunter
I remember you saying it somewhere but I can't find again. What size bolt snaps do you recommend for certain pieces of gear i.e. 2nd stage, reels, backup lights, spg, etc. Thank you for your help and I am really enjoying the videos.
Hi, I would have to go and measure (will do) but when you go shopping and ask for 1" , 3/4" and 1/2" you cant go wrong. 1/2 for the one on the long hose and on the light. 1" on the SPG and on top (neck) of the stages. 3/4 on the tail of the stage.
I am sorry but I dont get that... Do does measures represent the size of the ring? In my divestore, they have boltsnaps with the same ring size but different lengths! From like 60mm up to 120mm, they are huge! What lengths should they have to be comfortably operated with dry gloves? thanks!
As long as its #24 1 lb braided twine; do you care what color it is? Can I see green and black just as well as orange? I assume that is the issue in case of entanglement. I ask because black is significantly less cost.
I hear you on the cost, but if you've got a black line on a black hose or other black piece of equipment, it may be somewhat more challenging to see it clearly in a low-light environment if / when you had to cut it. I'd rather pay a little more and have a contrasting-color line that is more easily seen.
There are many agency-affiliated instructional videos on the web, many providing good information on different aspects of diving. However, your videos are consistently the most useful I have come across, ranging from very detailed demonstrations of diving essentials such as this one, to discussions of diving philosophy. Your points on equipment configuration (the ISE take on DIR) and approach to diving make excellent sense, and I have as a result re-thought and made small but significant modifications to my twinset configuration. Your blunt assessments of diving 'nonsense' I find refreshing. Excellent work, I look forward to your next video!
Hi Greg, dont know what to say but Thank You very much for this really appreciated and very motivating - safe diving!
I most certainly agree with Greg below. Some instructional videos are pretty lame, but THIS video here is NOT! The gentleman doing this instructional video is easy to understand, takes his time in the explanation segment(s), and gives a CLEAR view of EACH process. He is a most excellent teacher, + I'd go diving with him anytime!
When you want to know how to do it the right way, ask a German! 😛 Thx for the very clear explanation and for giving the reasons why to do it this way.
Very helpful
Had to rewatch after 3 years of use on a bolt snap.
I had to set up my new gear today and my Instructor, Mike van Splunteren, wasn't around to help me, so I came straight to the ISE channel to look for this video that I saw last year when you published it. Thank you, Achim. This is such a great help! Also, thank you for the high quality education that you have put into ISE training programs. There's no way back!
thanks Adriana, you're in the best hands with Mike. enjoy your class. best Achim
Brother Diver- Achim, I learned VERY good stuff from you today! Many thanks to you sir, for an exceptional presentation!
Best Didactics ever I sometimes watch this video to relax... after a long day at work.
Four years ego I was living on tropical island I had the absolute pleasure and honour to dive few times with the gentleman in this video.
It was probably dive number 20 for me away from the McDonald’s diving skills i was trying to forget
Dive number 20 using Hongarthian configuration i meant..
Amazing time really i end up throwing away my bcd old fins knife re-educate myself to the real art of surviving underwater.
His knowledge and the actual skills are at the top of the DIR tach and recreational Diving industry.
Thanks a lot Akim
Regards from london
I hope one day I can dive again with you..n Mike Thank you and
Safe Diving 👈🏻
Thank you for this technique, It has been my favourite equipment securing technique for awhile.
Great discussion & demonstration! I've been using the method described in your ISE video, but I recently found the Prusik Knot technique presented in a Prana Dive video that seems more elegant in that it better controls the wrapped line. I'm going to try it out.
A thought:
While many of the videos on tying boltsnaps address where to tie it along the length of the hose (ex: a handwidth from the 2nd stage), none discuss controlling the position of where you tie it radially around the circle of the hose.
Acknowledging that the angle the boltsnap can make with the hose can be radially adjusted about 190 degrees when constrained by properly-tied cave line, having it in the wrong position around the circumference of the hose (since the hose cannot rotate) can make clipping it off awkward, as well as having it poke you in the cheek for the one used to clip off your reg.
I find the correct position by setting up a tank and reg on my BC and running the hoses to find the right orientation as the hoses naturally curl to their diving positions. The key is using the natural curled position of the hoses in the diving position.
I wrap a piece of painter's tape on the hose adjacent to the installation position, use a Sharpie to mark the best boltsnap location on the tape, then tie it on. That way, the boltsnap is optimally located for use when diving.
Thanks and keep up the good work!
I just got new regs and harness set up. Will definitely be using the bolt snaps like this. Great set up and video thank you.
Wow…. This is a great video. I also enjoy your “that’s just stupid” communication style. We have strayed away from just saying how things are. I learned some great stuff from you today…. And now need to go re-tie some bolt snaps…. Shamefully. Lol
from this video I learned how to tie my first diver knot. thanks ISE
You have the most useful videos ever. Thank you so much!
Thanks. Very useful. I've used this technique to attach boltsnapt to lights, GoPros, etc. I also learned from your tackling video how to mark and wrap my boltsnaps with a similar orange hi-viz line. Easy to identify above and under water and improves grip.
I love your videos, and your attention to detail. There are a number of things I have picked up from you, in terms of my sidemount configuration. Keep them coming!!
Very helpful and useful explanations.
I appreciate that this is the correct way to tie the knots and position the boltsnap.
But just an idea:
1. Why not simply use a cord or an elastic band that breaks at a tensile force of approx. 200N (a bit stronger for the backup light), so that that we can break by hand in an emergency situation
2.Why do we have to use cave line that we have to cut right next to the hose (with stiff frozen fingers at the end of the dive...)
Great Stuff Achim, Great presentation
Nice demos, although I disagree with having a snap permanently attached to a primary reel. The reason is that a primary reel should already be in your hand when entering an overhead environment, so there is no chance of entanglement. You should not be swimming around through restrictions with a primary reel attached. When operating a primary reel you also don't want a snap hanging off it to catch on itself. Everything else I 100% agree with. Good demo!
very helpful although I'm wondering the reason why you tied the light differently from the reel or reg?
New diver, will do my gear this way! Good video
Thanks Sir in the first two minutes of watching your video You helped me. I figured out what I needed to do.!!!!!
you are my GURU proud to be a patreon :)
hello, what kind of line do you use to tie up your gears?
Great video, thanks for sharing! I've lost a backup light because the reef knot failed (after years it untied). What I do now is the same, but I also secure them with a loose zip tie. It's loose so it doesn't bend/break, but in the case the knot fails it will catch it. Please let me know if you have any better ideas! Cheers
how does cave line vary from braided nylon cord that you might buy at the hardware store? will nylon cord do ?
Very nice video, some people need this simple technics. Simple is the best under water. Thx!
thank you for you video, i'm really happy to follow you. Just a question which size is the orange wire? thank you
Excelente video, consejos seguidos al pie de la letra.
Love the videos.... I have seen on some of your videos you use a double ended on the regulator instead of a bolt snap. I would like to try it but do not see a video.
I have elbows on my side mount regs. If I attach to the elbow they are hard to clip off if I tie to the hose the flop around a lot. I think the double ended will be great solution. Thoughts?
Can you make a video?
A really informative video. Thanks very much for posting. A lot of subscribers seem to have the same question regarding the caveline, myself included - what diameter is it that you use and do you have a link for where a large spool can be purchased please? Several searches for braided nylon line have been unfruitful and the one purchase I made from eBay was not the same as the line you use!
Hi Ray, the line is 2mm. like standard cave line. if you want to have the orange one I ue you can contact me at achim@is-expl.com and I can help along with this. I have them in 600 MEter spools but can deliver smaller quantities as well.
Excellent video and very instructional with a lot of good information and tips! Thank you.
Achim, you are amazing!
Liebe Grüße von Schweden
Hi, what type of line did you use?
Good video, I use those knots to secure my gear too. I do sometimes use cable/zip ties to secure things though. Very quick to do and still quite easy to cut through.
Hi, thanks. We try to avoid cable ties as the tend to breack when you twist them and they get brittle (well most of them) when exposed to UV-Light (sun). But they are for sure a great "quick fix" - hey we would still be in the caves without duct tape and cable ties :-D
That is excellent thank you. Quick question do you normally cut the lanyards off dive torches? Cheers
Hi, what is the thickness of that orange rope? Any recommendations for thickness. Thanks for the video, very useful tips.
If I'm not mistaken and my eyes tell me right, Achim uses a #24 cave line (24 refers to the number of strands). It's, approximately, 1.8mm in diameter. This is the typical for reels and spools. You can find from #18, that is very tiny, up to #48, that is used permanently in caves.
Adriana, many thanks for your informative reply! As with Brother Diver Garwanen, I was wondering the very same thing!
Gus and Woodie at Dive Talk to me on to you! Great stuff!
where did you buy the orange line?
What kind of line should be used? Does it have to be nylon? Is polypropyeln just as good? (I know, spare line from a reel could be used, but let‘s assume I don‘t wanns do this).
Hi...Great video's...I noticed you used different sized Boltsnaps. Was this intentional or isnt it that important ?
Mariners call it a square knot or a reef knot. Good video, thanks.
Why would you fasten a bolt snap permanently to a reel???
What is the brand and specs of the orange cave line used in this video?
Thanks in advance
Andrew MacGregor I need this info too ...
Great video, thanks for sharing. What's your recommendation for tying a bolt snap on a finger spool?
For a rented regulator scenario where one would only need it for a weeks diving from the local dive shop, is it ok to use a zip tie instead for a quick job?
What knot did you use? I speak portuguese and I didn’t understand what knot you are using.
Hi Fabic, its a "Crosknot"
@@CoastalDevelopment thank you very much! Your videos are amazing! I will do “intro to tech” at NAUI! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!
@@fabiolopes5834 🤔🤨 with ISE would make me more happy
@@CoastalDevelopment would you have instructors in Brazil? If so, can I have your contact?
Thank you Achim and InnerSpace Explorers for the very good advices. Very helpful tips and information. I have a quastion about your wrist watch. Probably is a scubapro Mantis or Meridian. Can I have your opinion about these 2 models and the suuntos? (or in one of the next videos...)
Thanks!!
Hi Marios,
Yes, it is a Mantis - and meanwhile a Mantis 2. I use it basically as a daily watch and as a simple Bottomtimer in recreational dives. (Gauge mode). As a computer I find it a bit hard to read and the menue is not really intuitive. (But that can be a subjective problem of an old man with glasses:-D )
SCUBA, gear, knots and a lighter, now I'm watching!
are there any problems using bungee to tie boltsnap?
Just a question , It seems you have very little line between the object and the snap , I normally dive with an EZY-CUT(Original in caves , ceramic in Salt) and a titanium line cutter , now I don't think the EZY-CUT could cut that connection and I think the titanium line cutter may struggle to find the little bit of line , I'd say I would probably have to resort to sawing with the saw on the cutter which would eventually cut it likely making it blunt as I draw the the teath over either snap or torch body. Is there something I am missing do my little little 1-2cm gaps have any significant draw backs ?
Hi, we want the snap to sit as snug as possible. I never expirieced any probems when cutting one off. Zhe best thing would be to make a few samples an test cuts to be sure it works with what you use. I tried an ezycut and it worked great.
Thanks for the response , Ill do some testing
I dropped some quickglue to knots I tied to boltsnap. Lines still need burning because glue makes line ends stiff and kinda sharp.
Is glue ok I want to ask?
yes - I do this on all my takelings for the boatlines
@@CoastalDevelopment yep. I mean im still looking will the glue make where glue line ends and line starts, could line snap on that point.
But im not too serious on those things. Just nice part of the hobby to rig your gear.
Thank you so much for your videos! I have learned so much.
awesome video! Thanks for sharing! I will try to learn these from your video soon.
Can you suggest me some good brands of line I can buy in Europe? It's better in Nylon or Kevlar? Thank you
C.
HI Chris, the material used on most spools is sold as "braided nylon". stores that provide line for commercial fishermen usually have it as it is used to fix nets. A lot of divers also use paracord from Kevlar in various shiny colors. This is also ok - but the line is usually thinner which can be an issue if you use thick gloves
Achim, if you lose the screw from the brake of the primary reel what would you recommend. Also, is there any way to replace it?
Great video two questions do you recommend flex hoses? And have you ever experienced any problems using them?
Really enjoyed this, thank you
Hi ... I'm watching your video.
I am not accustomed to English, so I have limited understanding.
From 14: 10 onwards, a bolt snapshot appears on spg
Why ? Should I use Big Eye Bolt Snaps?
Is it because your fingers have to go in?
I heard it somewhere, but I want to check it out .......
Thanks for the video
Which hose is better Myflix or the rubber for the 2nd stage? Thanks.
Thanks. Super helpful.
what kind af line are you using for tying on the video
simple caveline like on most spools and reels
Thx :-)
Excellent video. Thank you.
I'm not a big fan of attaching regulators with an unbreakable bolt snap. I attach mine, always, with a break away attachment in case I need it in a hurry.
If you don’t use a bolt snap, how then is your second stage hose attached to the d ring?
@@starbuggle I use a small bolt snap attached to my regulator hose via an O ring and tie strap. That way, if I need it in a hurry it will breakaway with a pull.
@@thedivesmith8838 Way to go in sidemount config anyway.
Love your videos! These are the best. Do a class in California
thanks Ryan, get some friends together and I will be there in sec.
CoastalDevelopment - InnerSpace Explorers - ISE
Send me an email of what you would need to do a class out here. I'm sure I can find participants.. rclark450@gmail.com
hi Ryan please send me your email to:achim@is-expl.com so I can send you a plan . thanks and best Achim
where can i get a spool of this cordage you use?
Achim, I'm wondering why do you use the bigger Boltsnap for the SPG? Is it for the comfort for holding it?
Well done mate
Fantastic Video! learned a lot.
Would 550 paracord be good for this method or do you think it would be too thick?
why did you use a big boltsnap for the SPG? any reason ?
Because I have the habbit it sticking my finger through the eye of the snap when I take it to the front to look at it. That way I can even open my palm and not loose the SPG which means I do not have to relocate it to clip it back.
Great video
Very informative, thanks for making it!
What I don’t like about the clip on the regulator hose is the added weight pulls the mouthpiece out of your mouth. You would bite down harder giving you jaw fatigue
i wnated to order the orange wetnotes and maybe other stuff coz it is my fav color :-) but the link SHOP on ise website took me to some strange eBay shop with aramturen and windshields...?? disappointed. :-(
I don't understand how one would quickly cut away the regulator retaining bolt snap when it's attached with cave line - that seems like perfect retention for things like flashlights, gauges, etc, where if you need them removed in an entanglement situation you can then easily cut away because everyone can breathe just fine so no real rush just take your time and be precise, but that seems much too secure in the event of needing to share air in an emergency, I can just picture my buddy drowning as I fumble with the scissors or dive knife because of a stuck bolt snap, surely better to just replace the oring connection at regular intervals no? I"m curious what your thoughts are on this and if I'm missing something critical
The critical piece you missed is the better option that is not clipped off and is bubbling enticingly to your panicked buddy (the reg in your mouth). The main reason that primary reg would be clipped off is because there's a THIRD reg being used (deco stage).
@@pbillings808 you mean the regulator on a lanyard? Why do tech diving agencies bother having a long hose that's clipped then? I think you may be confused, or simply not explaining your point very well
@@pbillings808 are you saying one should donate the short hose regulator? As opposed to the long hose? Seems suspect
Just to clarify, are we discussing sidemount or hogarthian back mount?
@@testpipedh22a Discussing backmount with a long hose primary regulator, a necklaced secondary regulator, and an optional tertiary regulator on a deco stage. That long hose reg is either being used by diver #1 -- and therefore available to give to the buddy -- or it's been clipped off and diver #1 is on the deco stage -- and *that* is therefore available to give to the buddy. At no time does the bolt snap on the long hose need to be sawed off or even unclipped in seconds to keep someone from drowning.
Edit: If you're worried about the specific case where someone only has a long primary and necklaced secondary (no deco stage), I'd ask why are they on the secondary with primary clipped in the first place at a depth where an out of air occurrence would be an issue (i.e., not at a safety stop)?
Very well done and documented, Achim, as usual. About the tie on the reel, how can the boltsnap be prevented from getting entagled in the line, especially on fast release such as deploying the SMB?
Hi Alberto,
The snap is on the opposite side of where the line deploys so an entaglement is basically not possibe. As with all of this - a solid education - demo of "how to" and proper training of thoses skills is esential.
I can only repeat myself that these vidoes can only be appertizers and give hints and some tricks but they do not substitute face to face training with a proffesional.
Very informative! thank you very much interesting video!
13:50 It is called maintenance. You frame the solution as crap with an arrogant non verbal trow away gesture but the only " problem" is you have to change the o-ring once every year as part of your regular maintenance and as a plus you get a good break-connection which you should have for every second stage connection. You solution "you can always cut is with a knife" does not meet the paradigm things should be simple and accessibel in case of emergency. I rather prefer to loose a bolt snap or suffer the inconvenience of a broken o-ring and a dangling second stage than playing with knifes in a no air situation because of a tight connected bold snap.
Well I guess you do things for the only one truth - yours - without the need to contradict any objections. You reaction at first in 13:50 and now to me does not leave room for any falsification and thus for new ideas and possible optimizations. I do things to make diving saver. Based on your reaction and your poor argumentation it looks you are doing things to keep-up your paradigm. That o-rings need to be changed isn't an argument agains o-rings. It's an argument for maintenance. Change o-rings like you do with all your o-rings. No please answer why a breaking-connection is worst than a tied one for a second stage bolt snap. Sunshine and wear and tear doesn't do it for me.
You dont get it and wat to argue for the sake of arguing, so this does not make any sense - and again - you miss the concept - completely.
Your statement of "than playing with knifes in a no air situation because of a tight connected bold snap." makes crystal clear that you have no idea of what we do, why we do it - that you never took the time to have a look at the etiry concept and for shure have no expireince in what we do. in a technical dive and a challanging environment with multible gases I do not want gear to break - I want to fixed at a defined place and I want to have 100% control. a breakaway can break as the name indicates - and it will at some point - no matter if services or not (no idea why you implement that we shortcut service of gear) it can break because I pump into something etc. And usually this happens in the worst moment. (ever hear of the spiral of death? - sounds like drama - but accidents develop - they do not just happen. some small thing goes wrong - that causes discomfort or distraction. that lead to the next problem, and so on) So I want my stuff fixed. BUT as I want 100% control i also do not want metal to metal - i want to bea able to cut it away if the shit hits the fan. No - no tplaying around with a knife in azero vis while out of gas - that was your term - but for example with a z-knife that cuts the line but is too narrow to cut the hose - and if you would take the time to look at the system you would realize that the reg is breathable even if clipped due to the position of the snap (because it is a system)
and now service your o-rings - I am arrogant and have no idea and you know better - fantastic.
I do want everything tight and fixed and I do respect your videos and instructions. For that I do not miss the argument. But I disagree with you about the unbreakable bolt snap connection for the second stage and I find your arguments against this too light. I switched from the exact connection you demonstrate in 13:50 to a breakable connection of my second stage because of an incident at the worst of times. My buddy (student) made a mistake and needed air and I just finished my gas switch. My student ended up with a clipped long hose he could not reach or unclip and a broken mouthpiece on his secondary. Luckily a saw his mistake happening and he was cool enough to wait for my rapid unclipping of my long hose. But with big gloves and 4 degrees water it could easily end up in a spiral of death (yep the same one you mentioned). This problem could have been solved earlier by having a breakable connection on the second stage for my buddy. But also for me. Thought I had a good and rapid reaction, I feel much more comfortable by being able to break to connection. Now, your worry about the rubber of the o-ring becoming bad over time could easily be solved by adding the change of the o-ring as part of you maintenance. And I did not imply you do not maintain your gear. Now for my part, yes, I also experienced a broken o-ring with this connection and it only lead to a dangling second stage. Not being able to breath of give air is worst to my humble opinion.
Oli4Post, you sound like a cantankerous, ill-tempered old bosomhead, that just ENJOYS being confrontive! Ever occur to you that perhaps you HURT Herr Achim's feelings??? You OWE him an APOLOGY, you MEAN old man!
Very useful, good video. Thank you.
Great video. Vielen Dank
Does paracord line work with boltsnap?
thank you for tips
Hi, Shoulder I use 2MM nylon line or thicker? 4MM or more? to setup the gears?
2mm is fine (standard cave line)
Hej, very informative and very useful video but wondering at the end when you make a final knot it's little bit different between when you tie a boltsnap to main reel and to prim reg/spg (you put the line one more time through the bolt aye) ?
MvH
Igor K
Hi, if the knot has to withstand more abuse / force I sometimes wrap the line a second time - otherwise it is the same.
THIS GUY... is someone who’s smart, technically skilled and knows what the fuck he’s doing.
Hello excuse me for my english. I'm spanish, what is the name in spanish of this type of CORD?
it is called "caveline" but when you buy you look for "braided Nylon Line" it must not swim! if not in your divestore or online you might have a look it commercial fish supply stores.
good video but one bit the long hose should not be tied with line.its not a break away ,using a tank oring does the job perfect .
Thanks. No - it shoult NOT be a break away as it shows that these break at the worst moment. Furthermore the concept is as obsolet as the "ditchable weightbelt" the longhose is either in your mount or in you hand. so there can be no situation when you need to deploy while it is clipped unless you breath from a stage. If you vreath from a stage you donate the reg in your mout8h as well (donate what you breath as you know the reg works and it is the correct gas) So again no need to break it away, In the unlikely event that someone needs it while clipped it is still usable if the clip is installed correct (one hand width back the hose) - hope this helps
You could also make these connections better & faster to setup.
1. For pouches, light, reels, etc. with direct metal attachments you can find saltwater certified small nylon loops & tie a slip not like you did to both pieces of gear & tie off in the end of each so the don’t slide (but they shouldn’t).
2. For regulators & gauges use stainless steel bolt-clamps on the hoses & tie off as in #1 above. They are made to secure to hoses, but not damage them.
These take 10 seconds each, require almost no skill, & can be repeated with same results everytime, even on a dive boat between dives.
However on the flip side the cave live is long time tested and proven as an extremely effective solution. Low cost can be done in the field with a bit of cave line, scissors and a BIC lighter or torch. Adds no additional weight especially for regulator uses. This method of cave line will not damage the hoses and by far most importantly can easily be cut away with your dive knife or dive scissors in the event a snap gets entangled or entrapped in a structure or pice of gear. After you install a few of these it really doesn't take but a minute of time and has many benefits over manufactured hose clamps often times coming with rubber hose protectors imposing more unnecessary crap to the kit and entrapping additional salt and sand rubbing the hose down.
Cheers, #SeattleRingHunter
Thank you.
Nice video! Thank you for sharing!
I remember you saying it somewhere but I can't find again. What size bolt snaps do you recommend for certain pieces of gear i.e. 2nd stage, reels, backup lights, spg, etc. Thank you for your help and I am really enjoying the videos.
after seeing this...I thank god I'm freediver! hahaha
What size bolt snaps do you use? Length wise? :)
Hi, I would have to go and measure (will do) but when you go shopping and ask for 1" , 3/4" and 1/2" you cant go wrong. 1/2 for the one on the long hose and on the light. 1" on the SPG and on top (neck) of the stages. 3/4 on the tail of the stage.
+CoastalDevelopment - InnerSpace Explorers - ISE Awesome, thanks for the reply!
I am sorry but I dont get that... Do does measures represent the size of the ring? In my divestore, they have boltsnaps with the same ring size but different lengths! From like 60mm up to 120mm, they are huge! What lengths should they have to be comfortably operated with dry gloves?
thanks!
As long as its #24 1 lb braided twine; do you care what color it is? Can I see green and black just as well as orange? I assume that is the issue in case of entanglement. I ask because black is significantly less cost.
I hear you on the cost, but if you've got a black line on a black hose or other black piece of equipment, it may be somewhat more challenging to see it clearly in a low-light environment if / when you had to cut it. I'd rather pay a little more and have a contrasting-color line that is more easily seen.
always， great job！ learned a lot from you shares.Thanks!
great info, thanks a lot.
Verry interesting Video! Thx for Upload!
awesome video. do you have an email address have about a million questions on setting up the way you showed in the video. thanks.
Neil Luchene achim@is-expl.com
You Meant second stage :) Sorry love your work
good video thank you
nice one. very useful. now I know :D
thank you very much :)