There are those who have blown up rifles and there are going to. Sad to say, but true. We need to keep practicing with our equipment to be proficient and accurate and to BE SAFE. Please take care!
Well we didn't learn a thing here other than there is some secret feature on the back that he spoke about for less than 2 seconds and then that was it. Awful and a waste of time
Great info, been machining 40-years , still drop by these vids to maybe learn new tricks. It is amazing now-days to see kids graduating from machining trade schools whom have been well trained in the digital world but can't read a pair of Starreet dial micrometers. Salutations to you guys out there who makes these type of instructional vids !
Here is another method that I use and was taught to me by a very experienced machinist. If you want to measure the height of the smaller OD section of that thingy you have, you can start by measuring the length of the larger OD and re-zero your caliper. You then measure LOA and what is shown is the difference or the measurement of the smaller OD section. I realize this is an extra step/re-zero but works great in certain situations.
This is common practice with digital calipers when measuring distances between features, such as the distance between holes…if the holes are of the same size…like a bolt circle. You zero on the id of one of the holes and measure the outside distance between them.
@@forestfishburne7900 Pretty much what I came to post - except that I was thinking of finding the center-to-center distance of objects like bolts (or pins, but again OF NECESSITY of the same OD), in which case you measure the OD of one pin and set your zero, then measuring across the outside of your two posts would give the O/C measurement. BE SURE, though, to RESET your ZERO when you're done!!! (don't ask)
The reason for that is the claipers don't have a radious in the corner and the part does. So if you are putting the non radious corner onto a radious to measure you wont be accurate.
adjusting the slop in the display head is very important as well. There are two screws at the top that need to be snugged up against the rail of the caliper so there is no movement in the jaw. this makes sure the jaws are always parallel and will improve your accuracy.
He didn't try and explain how to read a vernier though, they are (or should be) accurate to 0.001" ;o Electronic are not usually as accurate as 'real' vernier, just easier for people too dumb or lazy to learn how to use them. I have 6 pairs and they all give consistent results (except the 2 electronic ones)
@@1crazypjyou're dead right, for quick measurements of parts digital verniers are fine especially for older eyes but its got to be a Mike for machining and quality control .
Sir,, I have learned more from you in 3 days than I have for the last 6 months learning how to reload. I truly can’t thank you enough. Most of what I learn from the other sites doesn’t make much since.. but the steps you have lined out make perfect since to my overly filled mind. The only thing I need to get around though is the first step because I have no chronograph.. but for the plinking kind of shooting I do that’s no big deal. The rest I have learned will keep me safer than I would have been chasing the group. And safety is the most important, so again.. Thank you
When I got my first Mitutoyo caliper 40 years ago, "four-way" measurement was an advertised feature. I believe Mitutoyo claimed to be the originator. Now that most calipers have that feature, many people don't know about it. Go figure.
I knew this one. My boss's dad taught me that while working in a waterjet cutting shop. He was a machinist from the late 60's to early 2000's. Taught me lots of old school tricks.
Nice job showing the 4th use of that slide calipers. My background was in calibration (Metrology) and here is a trick don't hold things in your fingers to long. The heat from your fingers can affect the tolerance too. Some of the items that we had to measure we had to wear cotton gloves because the oils from your fingers would affect the measurements. Always note that the standards are at a certain temperature which is critical and humidity as well. Remember your gage blocks should be certified periodically too.
Well stated MonadKing, I was a Metrologist for 28 years, USAF, Tracor Aerospace, etc. Gauge blocks also come in different grades. No device is exact everything has a tolerance, even Gauge blocks.
Good stuff Eric. As a QE I was aware of the fourth method, and it’s also a good idea to make sure your instrument is calibrated. Look forward to the video on how you set a f/l resizing die!!
you know what, I know you are a busy man, THANK YOU SO MUCH for taking the time to teach everyone the "tricks of the trade" so to speak. my brother was a full time machinist at times in the aerospace industry, and he never showed me that trick (the back of the calipers). Thank you for all of the information that you are providing to all of us.
I am glad u told eveyone about the calipers accuracy, I am a machinist and thats common knowledge for a machinist, but when i tell a reloaders they dont belief me.
I was just writing the same comment then saw this lol watching people saying theyre getting accuracy within .0005" with these $20 Chinese calipers makes me laugh
Seth Leininger lol yeah, i used to work with $200-$500 mitutoyo calipers when i did quality control, and we only used them for quick reference. Always used micrometers.
Really cool! I'm a QA guy in a stamping shop and it nice to here someone that knows what they are talking about. We use calipers for inspection but only for things that are +/-.005
One gauge block is handy for a spot check but you really need a series of blocks to check across the range of the instrument. Another thing to be aware of is the heat from your hands will affect the readings over a period of time so gloves may be needed if the measurements being taken will take some time. Good video.
Gloves are heat conductive as well and it is pointless to use them while measuring. Considering the accuracy of calipers, you don't need any gloves or take in consideration any heat deformation etc. Calipers are designed to take the measures of an object in 0.01mm accuracy, even the analog one if you have a good eye you can read the numbers at 99.99% accuracy. For the tolerances used in mechanics those are more than enough tolerances to be able to reproduce the dimensions of an part. Anyway, if you want to be more accurate than thousands of an inch or millimeter use micrometers and other equipment but not calipers. For me as an mechanic over 25 years of experience and lot of knowledge, I use calipers almost blindfolded and within accuracy of 1/100 of an millimeter and that's pretty much enough for the job that I do. But anyway, environmental temperature can cause the changes from original dimensions, and it is recommend to use the caliper in mostly room temperatures for precise measuring. And the steps will be to leave the caliper and part you want to measure in room temperature for a while before taking measures. That is the practice that I've using all my life and it is proven perfect because all the parts which I want to replicate are built at those temperatures during production. You can also take at the part specifications and check for the temperature environment during assembly. Only hands and heat from the body will affect the measures but not in huge a way, it will be in micron difference which is not important if you're using calipers ;)
Really great info. Thanks for this. It really helps a guy who is trying to muddle my way through learning this stuff at home. It’s amazing how the more you learn the more you realize that you don’t know. That’s where the fun is though.
I've watched lots of your videos. I think you've forgotten more about this reloading hobby than I'll ever learn! You really do good for the reloading fraternity. My ammo goes bang, my guns function on it, I get holes in the target, but I'm not ever going to get the accuracy you achieve. Still, its a fun hobby for me and I like shooting my own ammo. Keep it up,man!!
Erik, Thank you for taking the time to make these very informative videos. As a former CNC machinist, gauge blocks are accurate at 68 degrees. Merry Christmas.
Great video; thanks for telling us about the 4th way to measure with calipers and the other stuff we had no idea about. Glad I cleaned up my vintage micrometer.
Yeah, and apparently there's a reloader's term for, "Oh, goodness. The light went out!". I think it was, "Son of a !!!" but I couldn't tell for sure. :)
A lot of good quality calipers like the Moore & Wright ones I use also have a difference between function. That is what I use for measuring steps. Measure the shorter length from the base to the step, lock the calipers and press the difference button. Then unlock and measure the longer length. The new reading is the step height.
Do you know the other 2 measurements that can be taken with those calipers? The angles on the tips of the "OD side" are 100deg, most metric counter sink angle for screws... Th "ID side" are 82deg, most imperial counter sink angles for crews.
I have one more: How to measure the distance between two holes, center to center. Stick the pointy ends in a single hole an zero it. Now stick each point in a separate hole and it reads the distance between the two hole centers. (holes have to be the same dia)
Aha! I had to drop in to share my own contrived trick, only to find this. I'm a tad fuzzy on your sticking "each point in a separate hole" being at all accurate, but here's how I often use mine: for measuring the on-center dimension of two equal diameter rods or bolts. If you measure the outside diameter, then zero (tare) that measurement out, then measure across the outside of the two bolts or rods. This gives you the o/c dimension, dead nuts. This only works on digital displays, obviously. Plus - don't forget to RESET your ZERO! As for the math: max distance outside less both radii equals o/c. If rods are equal, two radii equals one diameter. So for this to work on holes, you'd measure inside diameter of one hole, then zero out, then measure inside (between) the far edges of the two holes. The problem with that is that in smaller holes it's difficult to get an accurate inside diameter, if not outright impossible.
@@palewriter1856 Yes, there are some limitations, on hole size. But if 0,05mm with a caliper is ok, this method works. Most calipers aren't that precise under 0,05mm
Very good. Been doing it since 1970, but then not all sets had that feature. If you need real precision, buy and use a set of gage blocks. Set the dimension you need with the blocks and then see if your calipers tell you the same number. Sometimes the gauge blocks are called Jo blocks.
Jeeminy Christmas! So obvious AFTER the fact of being shown. Thanks so much for the knowledge, sir! I've used calipers for awhile on things that needed to be close, but never realized about the shoulder ability like you just showed. Thanks again!
You can also use the fourth method to mark a horizontal line that is a fixed distance from an edge. Just run the caliper up and down with a marker resting on the end of it ;)
I'm a retired toolmaker, and would use a caliper only for the "loose-tolerance" stuff +/-.005. Another useful advantage of calipers is to set the diameter or length of a part's finished dimension on the display and then zero it there. Take a measurement and now you have a means of determining how much to "take off" the material to obtain the finish dimension by simply reading the display... doesn't work on the old dial types of course.
@@sjb3460 And micrometers can be turned so tight that you stretch the thread. Any precision measuring tool can read inaccurately in the hands of a gorilla.
The fifth one is mentioned below but it has another use. When making multiple parts, zero it on the master and all others that are measured give you the difference +/- Lot easier than trying to do the numbers, it does it for you..
@@MurraydeLues no, you even can do that with a regular ruler. Is not a way to measure, is the intended design. Mitutoyo, Starret and Fowler documentation contradict you.
@@annakquinn7084 Yes you can measure with a ruler, but it will never achieve the speed and accuracy of this method. You have obviously never used them this way, so there is no point trying to even attempt this. Please continue in your little dream world.
I went to mechanical enginerding school measured a boat load of stuff had to learn basic machining skills and never learned that. Side note: I watched your don't chase the lands video. Found a little direction in it, then loaded up some AR food with your COAL test method and found me a fat accuracy node that nearly halved the best groups I'd ever shot with it before. If it stays consistent like that I'll be stoked. Thank you sir!
@Bertie Bollocks Not So. Accumulated tollerences, is a lame excuse offered by a metal worker who failed to use his most important tool. HIS MIND. If you do a build that has 4 components stacked or chained together. You assign points of validation, that you rule in or out based on your understanding of the dynamic or characteristics or range of use of your build. In real estate they say location location location. Building "fine" things..... It's ALL about, validation, validation, validation. Your machine / tool. Your measuring tools. Your info, or data. Blue prints / sketches. Who desinged it. How was the limits and tollerences for your build 9kkkdetermined. Temporature of everything Direct sunlight. Wear or breakdown of cutting tools. Nothing assumed. Your grasp of all this, and more, is What will build acuracy into your work. And calipers are NOT prone to inacuracy. How they are used, and handled IS. One moving part! No "feel" reqired like with a micrometer. You don't use your thumb nob to set the jaws for a read. You close the jaws on the intended surfaces, by squeezing the outsides of the jaws, with your fingers. In a digital caliper, the reading head is actualy reading half of the minimum single increment displayed. Cool!. Use it right. Develope consistency, and keep the slide clean and well adjusted.
IMO and i've been a Gunsmith and Machinist and a certified FAA incoming parts and overhaul etc. inspector in the last 25 years. all calipers should have a foot on them and all mics should have a stand for them to make them more versatile and if you're going to be using measuring instruments as much as some of us do. a person should buy a Jo block/gauge set and maybe even a small granite surface plate so you can do your own metrology. the older i get the more i drop things. if i do drop a caliper etc. i can go to the inspection plate with the block set and establish if there was any damage in a few mins. gauge blocks need to be handled with cotton insp. gloves and coated with the bee's wax provided to prevent them from staining and developing corrosion from the sweat/salt in your hands and the heat from your hands will make them grow as much as .0003" or more. our metrology lab was kept a 68* +/- 2* at all times to keep all parts and instruments bathed at the same temp. to keep parts from growing from heat. love the vids Eric keep them coming. cheap measuring tools are like a cheap motorcycle helmet. how much is your head worth to you. that's how much you should spend on a helmet.
15 year career machinist from DOD to medical to aerospace toolmaking to race engine design and building...if you're using calipers for anything in aerospace, you arent in aerospace. Calipers are tape measures, no more.
thenewBH I’m not trying to be uppity or a smart mouth. Because I’m so green to reloading thing. But I feel that calipers are the prefect tool for the reloading hobby. If I’m wrong please school me on something you feel is better for the purpose.
@@Danglebarry62 true. just like every carpenter has a tape every A&P has a caliper. when i worked for the Big Orange Helicopter Company we had rules as to what instrument would be used to measure each part. but, i will say i have bought in truck loads of Sikorsky surplus parts with a caliper and basic measuring instruments. there are around 60k parts on a CH-54 and only a small percentage of them are CMM etc. worthy. most everything else is panels, blade spars and pockets, bubble windows, and air frame parts, gaskets, landing gear etc. basically on those the tolerances are't overly tight and the paper trail and material certs and C of C is of the largest concern to the company. obviously engine parts, MGB and TGB and fuel cell parts are critical. if people really knew or saw how an aircraft is assembled or repaired sometimes they'd be more apt to drive somewhere rather than fly. i spent over 5 years sitting in a small air conditioned room with two CMM's and 4. other guys and a large surface plate measuring and buying in or rejecting either new, surplus or rebuild parts and writing QARs 10 hours a day. i probably rejected more than i ever bought in and our job was to find something wrong with each part. much to our suppliers or machinists dismay i may add. we didn't pay our suppliers until the parts passed QC and when they complained when we QAR's them or only did a partial buy in and put their parts in quarantine lockup till they grew dust on them we used to say "when all else fails, just make the parts to the F$%^&ing print"
thenewBH As a retired engineer who is currently building an airplane, I will say that not everything in aerospace needs to be measured to 0.0001” or better. Different jobs and applications require different tools and calipers are perfect tools for many applications.
Here's a method that works extremely well for referencing. Scribing. You can take one end tip of caliper that you take outer diameter measurements and place it on the end piece or edge of part. The other end of the tip, set for how long you want, lets just 1inch. Lock caliper in place. You drag the caliper either parallel or perpendicular with lightly putting pressure on surface of material to leave a scribed mark while moving along the edge. Now you have a 1 inch scribed line from the edge of the part. The tips on top that are used for measuring inner diameters can be used for scribing circles as well if you have a starter hole to begin with or scribe next hole location. Works great for referencing if you need numbers fast with location points and all you have is a drill press to work with with no read out and you have to do everything by eye. I would use calipers like this if they are worn out or are cheap throw away. Don't use your good calipers for this. I use this method all the time around the house on projects.
@@johnbower Lol! I was referring to old, used and cheap calipers. Not recommended for Starrett, Brown and Sharpe or Mitutoyo calipers or other high end calipers. I've got some "aerospace" made in China calipers. Spent $20.00 on them quite a few years ago and work great for what they are not intended for. Lol. Great tool to use for low dollar, drop on the floor a few times calipers. Lol. Not recommended for high dollar calipers or ones that you measure for precision as normally used for. Hope this clarifies. Lol
Good tips on both areas, accuracy and the fourth use. I’m a woodworker, so I don’t need anything past .01, but it’s good to know they’re most accurate in that range.
1: Remember to read the instructions for the gauge block. It should be withing a specified temperature range when used (usually around 20°C/~68°F if I remember correctly). Keeping it in your hands for too long will warm it up to a point where it is no longer 100% accurate due to thermal expansion. The same applies to micrometers. The frame is usually insulated, but it shouldn't be held in the hands for extended periods of time. These things are super-sensitive. The relatively high tolerance indicated in the data sheet is probably due to expected thermal expansion/retraction. It should be accurate at 20°C/68°F. 2: My 450mm (18") Mitutoyo vernier caliper (160-128) does not have any depth gauges. ;) 3: I did know about the 4th method, but haven't used it much due to its limitations. if there is any amount of curvature at the bottom of what you are measuring the depth of with method #4, you will have to tilt the caliper anyway. That's why the depth gauge has the notch at the tip.
Yes, a guy talking about accuracy handles the block with bare hands ! Pretty sure my VC doesn't have a depth function either - nor stepped jaws for method 4 ! In fact, for measuring i.d. I have to add 0·250" jaw thickness ;)
@@millomweb Ever notice how some people just have to always feel superior? I believe that do down, it has to do with insecurities. I am not an expert, however. 🤭
@@aminormaximum2446 I think that's just your opinion. I like superior people. I've had far too much of the junk already - which is why I prefer animals to people - as they're often better behaved.
Calipers should never used for precision measurement. When calibrated they’re considered to be acceptable when they read within 1.5 times their least resolving division. In this case that’s +/- .00075”. And you really should use rubber gloves when using gage blocks/pins/balls.
Watched your video on setting shoulder bump and saw you using this method to measure lockring-to-base on the sizing die and thought "HOW is he doing that?" Mystery solved! That's going to come in handy as I'm starting to look at loading for the 6.5 PRC.
I've watched a few of your videos today and learned more than I can remember. Going to have to watch them again while I'm sitting at my reloading table.
Vernier scale. Old school, still the most accurate, reliable method with calipers. The only drawback is my 59 year old eyes have prompted me to put a magnifying glass in the case.
@6:34 "Piece of F^#*!n' Sh!*" I was drinking coffee... had to wipe it off my desk! That right there earned you my thumbs up. =D PS I didn't know about the fourth method either, thank you! PSS You have the same name as my 2nd cousin from Alabama.
Yup! Tool Maker Basics 101. Anyone who dosent know this already probably shouldn`t be using them. I`ve been a machinist for 40+yrs, this is one of the first things you are taught... how to use your measuring instrument's.
@@D70340 I dont know if you have had the displeasure of training any recent tech school grads, but it is sad to see that they are graduating students who cannot effectively use their measurement tools.
Just started watching your channel, for me some good stuff, some I'm trying to decipher... ...but !!! I'm an engineer in aviation, and I have to give your statement a bit of assistance on how calipers are used. They were first designed for basic measurements; 1. Straight A to B point measurement 2. OD measurement 3. ID measurement 4. Depth Calipers were slightly redesigned and also aid in ; 5. Measurement of machining steps Thought I'd help you out
I respectfully disagree. Calipers are accurate within plus OR minus .001" because you can't be off your dimension by plus AND minus one thousandth of an inch (unless you're dead nuts on the dimension.) Thus, they are accurate within one thousandth of an inch, not plus or minus .002" As a machinist, I often take out a bunch of random gauge pins and lay them on the bench in any order. Every time, I can easily arrange the pins in order from smallest to biggest or tell you exactly what gauge pin I have just by measuring it with my calipers. Once again, I'm not trying to be disrespectful, just a little more precise in describing the accuracy of calipers. Also, I'm FINALLY so glad to hear somebody talk about the .0005 resolution on digital calipers and how it's a marketing gimmick. I've been debating this point with some of my younger coworkers for a couple of years now. Just because it reads in half-thousandths doesn't mean it's accurate within half-thousandths.
I used to be able to "read" .0005" on verniers, back when I could see, i.e., you have two hashmarks equidistant from alignment/neither perfectly aligned. Worked with a 60-incher in one shop; THAT took some finesse : ) At an automotive shop where I once worked, we called them "venereal clappers" : )
@@lordofthewoods I have never heard them called that, but I have heard them called "very near" instead of vernier. I've got some really expensive vernier calipers, but I can't see the damn things anymore.
@@tom87pate: Right there with you... I burnt my eyes while welding 20 years ago (thanks to a supervisor sand-bagging my efforts to get our welding supply rep to bring me an auto-dimming helmet), and went immediately from being able to "read the Bible on the head of a pin" to "can't see crap" : )
for over 42 years i have been using my calipers incorrectly! although i'm used to getting shallow depths the standard way, your method is superior! my first set of digital calipers were a very expensive 6in brown and sharp 1982. Thank you SIR!
Theunofficialresults seems more reliable than the way he showed it, not that it would make a ton of difference. I work in a lab and sometimes we have to measure mass by difference when we’re doing certain things, so it seemed reasonable that you could measure length the same way. I guess as long as everything is flush and parallel it wouldn’t matter too much
air AND rum Yes, you could, but what if the part was 15” long rather than 2” long. The point was to show you all about the step measuring feature. You don’t have to use it every time, but it’s there if you need it. I use it all the time when chambering barrels to measure the tenon length on barrels. Once I get really close, I switch to depth mic.
Erik Cortina I know it's not very practical for a reloader to own, but there were depth gauges in the shop for the measurements you are speaking of. Still good info to know about certain calipers having that option, although my old dial Browne and Sharpe calipers don't, so I just have to do the math instead.
I use my feeler gauge to confirm caliper accuracy. Here's a tip regarding using a feeler gauge for measurements. By stacking some of the blades of a feeler gauge together, you can get larger thickness measurements. If you put all of the blades from .003 to .022 side by side, and measure that, those add up to .250 which gives you 1/4". Add from .003 to .019 to get .187(5) aka 3/16" (6/32, 12/64). Add 8-17 to get .125 aka 1/8". Add 14 15 16 17 to get .062(5) aka 1/16th. I may not be the first to figure this out, but I figured it out on my own and wanted to share with anyone else who may not already know it. Also, if you have quality drill bits you can trust, you can use the base of the bit as a measure of diameter (or the outside of the drill bit, if the diameter of the bit is larger than the base, like my 3/4" Fisch bit). You were right, I hadn't thought of the fourth way, so, thanks for this!
Ok so... imma be that guy. First off though, really been enjoying your content since i found you last week. If I didn't respect you and your competence i would not be bothering to type this. If your calipers are not reading 1.0000 on a 1" STD they are either not zeroed correctly, you are not applying pressure properly (i.e flat and the same as when you zeroed) or they are trash. That accuracy rating is +/-.001 over the 6' range of the tool. So it should be +/-
All these comments and this is the only one that didn't leave me wondering about the future of humanity. Light consistent pressure, with wiped jaws should provide */- .0005 accuracy. (Still use mic's for critical parts.) In fact, in instances of measuring soft materials, I have found calipers to be easier because I can feel the material better than with mic's because the clutch hinders feel... to a certain degree. I thought some of ya'll may find this funny, when I first started machining, I made parts for cigarette vending machines. Can you imagine having those around... lol , how old am I? We made a lot of other things too. mostly sewing machine parts. Did that for five years then moved to another company and manufactured contact lenses.
Loving the comments.... "I'm and engineering and I've know for 40+ years".. No shit. I'd suggest that this video is more for those that aren't engineers, Maybe model makers or 3d printers. If you've been an engineer for 40+ years then this is kind of basic stuff. I mean like I've only been an engineer for 34 years and even I knew ;-)
.....actually, you must be a mechanical engineer. I believe civil, chemical, electrical, and other engineers can benefit from this "fourth" means of measurement. I've always used the depth rod to make shoulder measurements and now know a better way; so there ya go. And I've been at my job almost 44 years. I think everyone should learn something new every day.
I worked in calibration labs for something like 25 years, and another few years performing accreditation assessments - and even I learned a couple of new things. Granted, my work was principaly on on the electrical-electronic side of metrology, but I had to learn some of the physical-dimensional side as well. Partly to know how to use dimensional measuring tools used especially in microwave systems; partly because of personal interest, and even more when I started doing accreditation assessments - because I had to know at least enough to detect a plate of BS when it was being thrown at me. The knowledge also helped while being a co-author of ASQ's Metrology Handbook. But still never knew about using the back side. (I knew about the difficulty with the depth bar when the tail of the caliper is not fully supported from personal experience ... )
So when I'm working on the airplanes I worked on for 42 years, I have to take the conventional (NOT IMPERIAL) unit measurements in those hundreds of thousands of technical data pages and convert them. . . I get it. Smart.
@@paulcrumley9756 Hahahah that would be a B.!!! But I do think working in Metric would be a lot more sensible and faster then using, 3/16...and so on, fractions... But héy, I get it, if everything has always been a curtain way, it's almost impossible to switch.. You didn't notice the :P ? :)
Or the fifth one of measuring hole pitches or lug centres or under cuts. Or gear tooth pitches. I guess you could bring a few to mind I haven’t mentioned.
You forgot to mention the tip radius of the tool that cut the step diameter. When you use the depth gauge there is a radius to step the measurement point out from that radius. The square-ground end of the jaws can sit anywhere on that radius and give an incorrect reading. No point in having accurate instruments if you don't use them accurately.
Spot on observation. If he's trying to claim that they give accurate measurements, then it should have been pointed out in the video. I refer to mine as the 'Very Near Calipers' and wouldn't use them for anything that needed to be better than 0.005"
Omg, u are spot on 100% , been using calipers forever and been using 1-3 methods but never knew the 4th where I could have used this hundreds of times. Thank you, thank you, thank you! Liked and subscribed brother
I gather there is a movement in the US to go metric. Well think about it there are 4.5 litres per gallon in Australia we use litres at $ 2 plus for diesel fuel, at per litre it's easier for the companies to raise the price of fuel in small bits than say for a gallon. In Aussie we pay as I said say $2.05 a litre which works out at approx $9.22 a gallon. Where at the moment national average of regular is $ 3.513 and diesel is $3.832 a gallon. That is where the Aussie $ is worth $ 0.64 cents in US $. We Aussies are getting ripped ogg big time. Metrics is great in measuring so easy to work out, but it causes inflation.
Been a toolmaker for 40 years---I call calipers "guessing sticks." Another use of this feature is for accurate marking out from an edge. Simply set the measurement and place the shoulder of the slide on the side of the workpiece and scribe across the end of the caliper.
I had an electronic caliper and it wasn't accurate at all. Whatever i did it stayed like that. So I stuck with an old school reliable non-electronic caliper.
I still keep a set of good dial calipers just in case the EMP destroys all my tiny batteries ! Ha Ha ! No seriously I do keep a set just to keep me from becoming too electronically lazy I suppose. Its the one I usually grab for everyday mundane measuring.
It’s humbling to realize that there’s always something to learn no matter how much experience one has . Thank you.
I learn something new about this hobby everyday. I’ve been at this decades and still feel dumb.
There are those who have blown up rifles and there are going to. Sad to say, but true. We need to keep practicing with our equipment to be proficient and accurate and to BE SAFE. Please take care!
I learned this way back in college then managed to forget it. Instant flash back to 1979. Thank You for bring back memories of a better time.
Well we didn't learn a thing here other than there is some secret feature on the back that he spoke about for less than 2 seconds and then that was it. Awful and a waste of time
Great info, been machining 40-years , still drop by these vids to maybe learn new tricks. It is amazing now-days to see kids graduating from machining trade schools whom have been well trained in the digital world but can't read a pair of Starreet dial micrometers. Salutations to you guys out there who makes these type of instructional vids !
As much as I agree with you, it is what and how they are taught. Try them with a manual / non digital vernier.
@@colinweir5807, vernier refers to the analogue scale. Digital calipers are just that, digital.
@@alfa-psi Well, I said I was a Machinist , not an English teacher, LOL !
You’re correct, I did not know the forth way to use calipers. Thank you.
Fourth
I agree, thanks for teaching me something new Erik.
Same here. I feel really dumb now :)
Me neither. Good to know.
I thought this was obvious.
Here is another method that I use and was taught to me by a very experienced machinist. If you want to measure the height of the smaller OD section of that thingy you have, you can start by measuring the length of the larger OD and re-zero your caliper. You then measure LOA and what is shown is the difference or the measurement of the smaller OD section. I realize this is an extra step/re-zero but works great in certain situations.
This is common practice with digital calipers when measuring distances between features, such as the distance between holes…if the holes are of the same size…like a bolt circle. You zero on the id of one of the holes and measure the outside distance between them.
Mine is analogue..
@@forestfishburne7900 Pretty much what I came to post - except that I was thinking of finding the center-to-center distance of objects like bolts (or pins, but again OF NECESSITY of the same OD), in which case you measure the OD of one pin and set your zero, then measuring across the outside of your two posts would give the O/C measurement. BE SURE, though, to RESET your ZERO when you're done!!! (don't ask)
The reason for that is the claipers don't have a radious in the corner and the part does. So if you are putting the non radious corner onto a radious to measure you wont be accurate.
@@ranbymonkeys2384 Who are you addressing, and what are you talking about? ? ? ?
It's only when you seek answers that you realize how little you know. Thanks Erik!
Amen !
@@hotchihuahua1546 man polo NCFC look I’m numb B
I love your reply I may have to use that in the future as it is so true.
adjusting the slop in the display head is very important as well. There are two screws at the top that need to be snugged up against the rail of the caliper so there is no movement in the jaw. this makes sure the jaws are always parallel and will improve your accuracy.
And I have been using calipers for decades! Thanks for the humbling advise.
It's actually in the instructions that come with the calipers and has done for as long as I've been an engineer (47 years ) but guys never read them !
He didn't try and explain how to read a vernier though, they are (or should be) accurate to 0.001" ;o
Electronic are not usually as accurate as 'real' vernier, just easier for people too dumb or lazy to learn how to use them. I have 6 pairs and they all give consistent results (except the 2 electronic ones)
@@1crazypjyou're dead right, for quick measurements of parts digital verniers are fine especially for older eyes but its got to be a Mike for machining and quality control .
Guilty.
L0l
I’ve known about the the fourth hidden feature for 45 years. It’s called step measuring.
Sir,, I have learned more from you in 3 days than I have for the last 6 months learning how to reload. I truly can’t thank you enough. Most of what I learn from the other sites doesn’t make much since.. but the steps you have lined out make perfect since to my overly filled mind. The only thing I need to get around though is the first step because I have no chronograph.. but for the plinking kind of shooting I do that’s no big deal. The rest I have learned will keep me safer than I would have been chasing the group. And safety is the most important, so again.. Thank you
Google: Erik Cortina load development method. You’ll see how to work up a load without chronograph
@@ErikCortina thank you ! I never knew this jem existed. I had always done Audette development and did seating tests from there.
Erik Cortina , will do sir,, thank you
When I got my first Mitutoyo caliper 40 years ago, "four-way" measurement was an advertised feature. I believe Mitutoyo claimed to be the originator. Now that most calipers have that feature, many people don't know about it. Go figure.
I knew this one. My boss's dad taught me that while working in a waterjet cutting shop. He was a machinist from the late 60's to early 2000's. Taught me lots of old school tricks.
Nice job showing the 4th use of that slide calipers. My background was in calibration (Metrology) and here is a trick don't hold things in your fingers to long. The heat from your fingers can affect the tolerance too. Some of the items that we had to measure we had to wear cotton gloves because the oils from your fingers would affect the measurements. Always note that the standards are at a certain temperature which is critical and humidity as well. Remember your gage blocks should be certified periodically too.
Our measuring office was constant at 20°C.This temp keeps molecules in steel constant - nil expansion nor contraction
Thats why some mics have plastic tabs on the frame to hold 'em by, so you are minimising heat-transfer... 😎👍☘️🍺
@@martintheron1386 Martin, more importantly , its also because all measuring devices are calibrated at that specific temperature...
Well stated MonadKing, I was a Metrologist for 28 years, USAF, Tracor Aerospace, etc. Gauge blocks also come in different grades. No device is exact everything has a tolerance, even Gauge blocks.
Standards also!
Good stuff Eric.
As a QE I was aware of the fourth method, and it’s also a good idea to make sure your instrument is calibrated.
Look forward to the video on how you set a f/l resizing die!!
I worked in a machine shop for 10 years and it never dawned on me to measure a step that way. Thank you!
Method #4.... another WOW moment! You pegged me. I've always used the tip and even realized that it wasn't really suited for that. Thanks again!!!
you know what, I know you are a busy man, THANK YOU SO MUCH for taking the time to teach everyone the "tricks of the trade" so to speak. my brother was a full time machinist at times in the aerospace industry, and he never showed me that trick (the back of the calipers). Thank you for all of the information that you are providing to all of us.
I am glad u told eveyone about the calipers accuracy, I am a machinist and thats common knowledge for a machinist, but when i tell a reloaders they dont belief me.
Toolmaker for Baker Hughes...we play in half thou or less.
.005 is wide open
I was just writing the same comment then saw this lol watching people saying theyre getting accuracy within .0005" with these $20 Chinese calipers makes me laugh
I would never have known that. I've never worked in machining.
Vince Cartwright glad u do now thanks to eric cortina, I told my friends, but they dont belief me.
Seth Leininger lol yeah, i used to work with $200-$500 mitutoyo calipers when i did quality control, and we only used them for quick reference. Always used micrometers.
Really cool! I'm a QA guy in a stamping shop and it nice to here someone that knows what they are talking about. We use calipers for inspection but only for things that are +/-.005
One gauge block is handy for a spot check but you really need a series of blocks to check across the range of the instrument. Another thing to be aware of is the heat from your hands will affect the readings over a period of time so gloves may be needed if the measurements being taken will take some time. Good video.
Gloves are heat conductive as well and it is pointless to use them while measuring. Considering the accuracy of calipers, you don't need any gloves or take in consideration any heat deformation etc. Calipers are designed to take the measures of an object in 0.01mm accuracy, even the analog one if you have a good eye you can read the numbers at 99.99% accuracy. For the tolerances used in mechanics those are more than enough tolerances to be able to reproduce the dimensions of an part.
Anyway, if you want to be more accurate than thousands of an inch or millimeter use micrometers and other equipment but not calipers. For me as an mechanic over 25 years of experience and lot of knowledge, I use calipers almost blindfolded and within accuracy of 1/100 of an millimeter and that's pretty much enough for the job that I do.
But anyway, environmental temperature can cause the changes from original dimensions, and it is recommend to use the caliper in mostly room temperatures for precise measuring. And the steps will be to leave the caliper and part you want to measure in room temperature for a while before taking measures. That is the practice that I've using all my life and it is proven perfect because all the parts which I want to replicate are built at those temperatures during production. You can also take at the part specifications and check for the temperature environment during assembly.
Only hands and heat from the body will affect the measures but not in huge a way, it will be in micron difference which is not important if you're using calipers ;)
Really great info. Thanks for this. It really helps a guy who is trying to muddle my way through learning this stuff at home. It’s amazing how the more you learn the more you realize that you don’t know. That’s where the fun is though.
I was a machinist for six years I knew this was the step you were going to show an old timer at my old job taught me this technique
I've watched lots of your videos. I think you've forgotten more about this reloading hobby than I'll ever learn! You really do good for the reloading fraternity. My ammo goes bang, my guns function on it, I get holes in the target, but I'm not ever going to get the accuracy you achieve. Still, its a fun hobby for me and I like shooting my own ammo. Keep it up,man!!
Yep. You were right. I was measuring depth of steps incorrectly. Thanks for showing this!
Erik, Thank you for taking the time to make these very informative videos. As a former CNC machinist, gauge blocks are accurate at 68 degrees. Merry Christmas.
Great video; thanks for telling us about the 4th way to measure with calipers and the other stuff we had no idea about. Glad I cleaned up my vintage micrometer.
Love that fact that you didn’t edit out the light Turing off!
Hilarious
I laughed pretty hard at that part
Yeah, and apparently there's a reloader's term for, "Oh, goodness. The light went out!". I think it was, "Son of a !!!" but I couldn't tell for sure. :)
bkvdpw
😂
I said “you fantastic piece of quit”. 😁
Erik Cortina of course there’s no way you would have said “f****** piece of s***”
I would never accuse you of saying that 😂
I have to admit that I never knew about that O.D. step depth trick, but your logic is inescapable.
Thanks
I sure didn't know about the fourth measurement, thank you, I'll be using this all the time now!
A lot of good quality calipers like the Moore & Wright ones I use also have a difference between function. That is what I use for measuring steps. Measure the shorter length from the base to the step, lock the calipers and press the difference button. Then unlock and measure the longer length. The new reading is the step height.
Do you know the other 2 measurements that can be taken with those calipers?
The angles on the tips of the "OD side" are 100deg, most metric counter sink angle for screws...
Th "ID side" are 82deg, most imperial counter sink angles for crews.
Nice I didn't know that one!
And the beam of the caliper and any one jaw is 90 degrees. Who knew? A small machinist's square.
I assume that feature is actually dependant on the bran and model because my Mitutoyo have round tips on the OD jaws and entirely round ID jaws.
I thought we use 90? thats the most common countersink bolt I have and bits...
most metric couter sinks are 90 and standard (US)is 82 just like a center drill, well common center drills.
You are right! That is the reason I use a micrometer where I want to be as close to right as I possibly can be..
If you look on the back of a lot of old vernier calipers you will see two circular indents, these are meant to set the distance of spring dividers.
That 4th is so obvious, yet I never used it. Thx for the tip!
I have one more: How to measure the distance between two holes, center to center. Stick the pointy ends in a single hole an zero it. Now stick each point in a separate hole and it reads the distance between the two hole centers. (holes have to be the same dia)
That is the most useful trick. The one in the video, demands that your caliper is square at the end.
Aha! I had to drop in to share my own contrived trick, only to find this. I'm a tad fuzzy on your sticking "each point in a separate hole" being at all accurate, but here's how I often use mine: for measuring the on-center dimension of two equal diameter rods or bolts. If you measure the outside diameter, then zero (tare) that measurement out, then measure across the outside of the two bolts or rods. This gives you the o/c dimension, dead nuts. This only works on digital displays, obviously. Plus - don't forget to RESET your ZERO! As for the math: max distance outside less both radii equals o/c. If rods are equal, two radii equals one diameter. So for this to work on holes, you'd measure inside diameter of one hole, then zero out, then measure inside (between) the far edges of the two holes. The problem with that is that in smaller holes it's difficult to get an accurate inside diameter, if not outright impossible.
@@palewriter1856 Yes, there are some limitations, on hole size. But if 0,05mm with a caliper is ok, this method works. Most calipers aren't that precise under 0,05mm
You can find the center line on two holes with different diameters. You just have to calculate radii of both holes.
@@rickhoey4843 Of course -- but the point of my method was that it takes no claculation, for the math-challenged.
You never cease to amaze me.
Very good. Been doing it since 1970, but then not all sets had that feature. If you need real precision, buy and use a set of gage blocks. Set the dimension you need with the blocks and then see if your calipers tell you the same number. Sometimes the gauge blocks are called Jo blocks.
superb explanation Erik, keeping it that simple is so refreshing..., go on Erik you'r doing great, kind greetings from Belgium
Jeeminy Christmas! So obvious AFTER the fact of being shown. Thanks so much for the knowledge, sir! I've used calipers for awhile on things that needed to be close, but never realized about the shoulder ability like you just showed. Thanks again!
What's really humbling is that this was the first time I've actually known something before the EC video. Thanks for all of them.
Been a casual machinist for 40 years and never knew that feature!
Thx so much
That's actually pretty helpful, to ANY beginning machinist. Thank you sir.
Received my machining degree in 1992 and you would be surprised how many people do NOT know this.
just showed an engineer how to do this today!
You can also use the fourth method to mark a horizontal line that is a fixed distance from an edge. Just run the caliper up and down with a marker resting on the end of it ;)
I'm a retired toolmaker, and would use a caliper only for the "loose-tolerance" stuff +/-.005. Another useful advantage of calipers is to set the diameter or length of a part's finished dimension on the display and then zero it there. Take a measurement and now you have a means of determining how much to "take off" the material to obtain the finish dimension by simply reading the display... doesn't work on the old dial types of course.
It can work with dial indicators if swinging the dial covers the range.
Yes, Exactly another thing that saves me from doing math! LOL
If your caliper has a outer ring that you can turn. Your idea is still possible.
@@sjb3460 Only if you are Ham-Handed, a skilled fab can feel measurements, plus minus 2 or 3.
@@sjb3460 And micrometers can be turned so tight that you stretch the thread. Any precision measuring tool can read inaccurately in the hands of a gorilla.
I have been using calipers for more years than I can remember and never knew about the 4th use! Thank you very much for posting this video
The fifth one is mentioned below but it has another use. When making multiple parts, zero it on the master and all others that are measured give you the difference +/- Lot easier than trying to do the numbers, it does it for you..
That is not a 5th, is a technique to use it as a calculator or slide rule.
@@annakquinn7084 These calipers measure, therefore the 5th is valid as it is measuring difference.
@@MurraydeLues no, you even can do that with a regular ruler. Is not a way to measure, is the intended design. Mitutoyo, Starret and Fowler documentation contradict you.
@@annakquinn7084 Yes you can measure with a ruler, but it will never achieve the speed and accuracy of this method. You have obviously never used them this way, so there is no point trying to even attempt this. Please continue in your little dream world.
I got up from the kitchen table, down to the shop and immediately tried it! Thank you for that hidden gem!
I went to mechanical enginerding school measured a boat load of stuff had to learn basic machining skills and never learned that.
Side note: I watched your don't chase the lands video. Found a little direction in it, then loaded up some AR food with your COAL test method and found me a fat accuracy node that nearly halved the best groups I'd ever shot with it before. If it stays consistent like that I'll be stoked. Thank you sir!
It's true - you really do learn something new every day! Thanks for posting this.
Ahh yes stacking tolerances, the bane of precision.
@Bertie Bollocks
Not So. Accumulated tollerences, is a lame excuse offered by a metal worker who failed to use his most important tool. HIS MIND.
If you do a build that has 4 components stacked or chained together. You assign points of validation, that you rule in or out based on your understanding of the dynamic or characteristics or range of use of your build.
In real estate they say location location location.
Building "fine" things.....
It's ALL about, validation, validation, validation.
Your machine / tool.
Your measuring tools.
Your info, or data.
Blue prints / sketches.
Who desinged it.
How was the limits and tollerences for your build 9kkkdetermined.
Temporature of everything
Direct sunlight.
Wear or breakdown of cutting tools.
Nothing assumed.
Your grasp of all this, and more, is
What will build acuracy into your work.
And calipers are NOT prone to inacuracy. How they are used, and handled IS. One moving part! No "feel" reqired like with a micrometer.
You don't use your thumb nob to set the jaws for a read.
You close the jaws on the intended surfaces, by squeezing the outsides of the jaws, with your fingers. In a digital caliper, the reading head is actualy reading half of the minimum single increment displayed. Cool!. Use it right. Develope consistency, and keep the slide clean and well adjusted.
@@philmachineman8927 Indeed. Using the thumb knob will get you the measurement you desire based on the amount of pressure. :P
I always measured both lengths and subtracted! You are the man!
IMO and i've been a Gunsmith and Machinist and a certified FAA incoming parts and overhaul etc. inspector in the last 25 years. all calipers should have a foot on them and all mics should have a stand for them to make them more versatile and if you're going to be using measuring instruments as much as some of us do. a person should buy a Jo block/gauge set and maybe even a small granite surface plate so you can do your own metrology. the older i get the more i drop things. if i do drop a caliper etc. i can go to the inspection plate with the block set and establish if there was any damage in a few mins. gauge blocks need to be handled with cotton insp. gloves and coated with the bee's wax provided to prevent them from staining and developing corrosion from the sweat/salt in your hands and the heat from your hands will make them grow as much as .0003" or more. our metrology lab was kept a 68* +/- 2* at all times to keep all parts and instruments bathed at the same temp. to keep parts from growing from heat. love the vids Eric keep them coming. cheap measuring tools are like a cheap motorcycle helmet. how much is your head worth to you. that's how much you should spend on a helmet.
15 year career machinist from DOD to medical to aerospace toolmaking to race engine design and building...if you're using calipers for anything in aerospace, you arent in aerospace. Calipers are tape measures, no more.
We call calipers 'approximeters'
thenewBH I’m not trying to be uppity or a smart mouth. Because I’m so green to reloading thing. But I feel that calipers are the prefect tool for the reloading hobby. If I’m wrong please school me on something you feel is better for the purpose.
@@Danglebarry62 true. just like every carpenter has a tape every A&P has a caliper. when i worked for the Big Orange Helicopter Company we had rules as to what instrument would be used to measure each part. but, i will say i have bought in truck loads of Sikorsky surplus parts with a caliper and basic measuring instruments. there are around 60k parts on a CH-54 and only a small percentage of them are CMM etc. worthy. most everything else is panels, blade spars and pockets, bubble windows, and air frame parts, gaskets, landing gear etc. basically on those the tolerances are't overly tight and the paper trail and material certs and C of C is of the largest concern to the company. obviously engine parts, MGB and TGB and fuel cell parts are critical. if people really knew or saw how an aircraft is assembled or repaired sometimes they'd be more apt to drive somewhere rather than fly. i spent over 5 years sitting in a small air conditioned room with two CMM's and 4. other guys and a large surface plate measuring and buying in or rejecting either new, surplus or rebuild parts and writing QARs 10 hours a day. i probably rejected more than i ever bought in and our job was to find something wrong with each part. much to our suppliers or machinists dismay i may add. we didn't pay our suppliers until the parts passed QC and when they complained when we QAR's them or only did a partial buy in and put their parts in quarantine lockup till they grew dust on them we used to say "when all else fails, just make the parts to the F$%^&ing print"
thenewBH As a retired engineer who is currently building an airplane, I will say that not everything in aerospace needs to be measured to 0.0001” or better. Different jobs and applications require different tools and calipers are perfect tools for many applications.
I have learned so much from you in the last 3 months of watching your channel . Thank you sir
Here's a method that works extremely well for referencing. Scribing. You can take one end tip of caliper that you take outer diameter measurements and place it on the end piece or edge of part. The other end of the tip, set for how long you want, lets just 1inch. Lock caliper in place. You drag the caliper either parallel or perpendicular with lightly putting pressure on surface of material to leave a scribed mark while moving along the edge. Now you have a 1 inch scribed line from the edge of the part. The tips on top that are used for measuring inner diameters can be used for scribing circles as well if you have a starter hole to begin with or scribe next hole location. Works great for referencing if you need numbers fast with location points and all you have is a drill press to work with with no read out and you have to do everything by eye. I would use calipers like this if they are worn out or are cheap throw away. Don't use your good calipers for this. I use this method all the time around the house on projects.
if you did that using my calipers you would be buying me some new ones
@@johnbower Lol! I was referring to old, used and cheap calipers. Not recommended for Starrett, Brown and Sharpe or Mitutoyo calipers or other high end calipers. I've got some "aerospace" made in China calipers. Spent $20.00 on them quite a few years ago and work great for what they are not intended for. Lol. Great tool to use for low dollar, drop on the floor a few times calipers. Lol. Not recommended for high dollar calipers or ones that you measure for precision as normally used for. Hope this clarifies. Lol
I wish I could like your stuff more than once. Always informative.
Thanks Erik, I've been using calipers for 57 years and not known about this feature. I guess it was hiding in plain sight.
30 yrs. for me in a hydraulic cylinder repair shop
Good tips on both areas, accuracy and the fourth use.
I’m a woodworker, so I don’t need anything past .01, but it’s good to know they’re most accurate in that range.
1: Remember to read the instructions for the gauge block. It should be withing a specified temperature range when used (usually around 20°C/~68°F if I remember correctly). Keeping it in your hands for too long will warm it up to a point where it is no longer 100% accurate due to thermal expansion. The same applies to micrometers. The frame is usually insulated, but it shouldn't be held in the hands for extended periods of time. These things are super-sensitive. The relatively high tolerance indicated in the data sheet is probably due to expected thermal expansion/retraction. It should be accurate at 20°C/68°F.
2: My 450mm (18") Mitutoyo vernier caliper (160-128) does not have any depth gauges. ;)
3: I did know about the 4th method, but haven't used it much due to its limitations. if there is any amount of curvature at the bottom of what you are measuring the depth of with method #4, you will have to tilt the caliper anyway. That's why the depth gauge has the notch at the tip.
Yes, a guy talking about accuracy handles the block with bare hands !
Pretty sure my VC doesn't have a depth function either - nor stepped jaws for method 4 !
In fact, for measuring i.d. I have to add 0·250" jaw thickness ;)
@@millomweb Ever notice how some people just have to always feel superior? I believe that do down, it has to do with insecurities. I am not an expert, however. 🤭
@@aminormaximum2446 I think that's just your opinion. I like superior people. I've had far too much of the junk already - which is why I prefer animals to people - as they're often better behaved.
lol! you beat me to the bodyheat thing :)
Thanks for the info for people that don't know about calipers I knew but every few know.
Calipers should never used for precision measurement. When calibrated they’re considered to be acceptable when they read within 1.5 times their least resolving division. In this case that’s +/- .00075”. And you really should use rubber gloves when using gage blocks/pins/balls.
Watched your video on setting shoulder bump and saw you using this method to measure lockring-to-base on the sizing die and thought "HOW is he doing that?" Mystery solved! That's going to come in handy as I'm starting to look at loading for the 6.5 PRC.
I've been hammering nails in with mine for years. How dare you say I'm using mine wrong.
Exactly, and I guess using a mike as a C clamp is frowned upon
@@cmwood6959 "Calibrated" c-clamp mind you.
Calipers doesn't strike me as very effective hammers.
Unless you have a big-a** one like my 450mm Mitutoyo 160-128. :)
I open the jaws and use them as a seal puller.
Mine double as a locking precision adjustable wrench!!!!! :)
I've watched a few of your videos today and learned more than I can remember. Going to have to watch them again while I'm sitting at my reloading table.
Vernier scale. Old school, still the most accurate, reliable method with calipers. The only drawback is my 59 year old eyes have prompted me to put a magnifying glass in the case.
Here 52 y.o. :-)
Yup, a good strong glass in mine.
Invest in a set of dial calipers. Same accuracy but way easier to read.
I have 2 pair of them. I have to use an eye loupe to read them now LoL
@@howlinhog I never said a dial is * more * accurate, just that they're easier to read.
You have just become my new favorite channel for the how to videos.
@6:34 "Piece of F^#*!n' Sh!*"
I was drinking coffee... had to wipe it off my desk! That right there earned you my thumbs up. =D
PS I didn't know about the fourth method either, thank you!
PSS You have the same name as my 2nd cousin from Alabama.
Learned this in shop class in the 90s. Good video.
I have been a machinist professionally for 20 years and it amazes me how many machinists don't even know this.
Yup! Tool Maker Basics 101. Anyone who dosent know this already probably shouldn`t be using them.
I`ve been a machinist for 40+yrs, this is one of the first things you are taught... how to use your measuring instrument's.
@@D70340 I dont know if you have had the displeasure of training any recent tech school grads, but it is sad to see that they are graduating students who cannot effectively use their measurement tools.
No matter what age, you learn something new every day!
Just started watching your channel, for me some good stuff, some I'm trying to decipher...
...but !!! I'm an engineer in aviation, and I have to give your statement a bit of assistance on how calipers are used.
They were first designed for basic measurements;
1. Straight A to B point measurement
2. OD measurement
3. ID measurement
4. Depth
Calipers were slightly redesigned and also aid in ;
5. Measurement of machining steps
Thought I'd help you out
I respectfully disagree. Calipers are accurate within plus OR minus .001" because you can't be off your dimension by plus AND minus one thousandth of an inch (unless you're dead nuts on the dimension.) Thus, they are accurate within one thousandth of an inch, not plus or minus .002" As a machinist, I often take out a bunch of random gauge pins and lay them on the bench in any order. Every time, I can easily arrange the pins in order from smallest to biggest or tell you exactly what gauge pin I have just by measuring it with my calipers.
Once again, I'm not trying to be disrespectful, just a little more precise in describing the accuracy of calipers. Also, I'm FINALLY so glad to hear somebody talk about the .0005 resolution on digital calipers and how it's a marketing gimmick. I've been debating this point with some of my younger coworkers for a couple of years now. Just because it reads in half-thousandths doesn't mean it's accurate within half-thousandths.
I used to be able to "read" .0005" on verniers, back when I could see, i.e., you have two hashmarks equidistant from alignment/neither perfectly aligned. Worked with a 60-incher in one shop; THAT took some finesse : )
At an automotive shop where I once worked, we called them "venereal clappers" : )
@@lordofthewoods I have never heard them called that, but I have heard them called "very near" instead of vernier. I've got some really expensive vernier calipers, but I can't see the damn things anymore.
@@tom87pate: Right there with you...
I burnt my eyes while welding 20 years ago (thanks to a supervisor sand-bagging my efforts to get our welding supply rep to bring me an auto-dimming helmet), and went immediately from being able to "read the Bible on the head of a pin" to "can't see crap" : )
for over 42 years i have been using my calipers incorrectly! although i'm used to getting shallow depths the standard way, your method is superior! my first set of digital calipers were a very expensive 6in brown and sharp 1982. Thank you SIR!
Couldn’t you just zero at the full length, then take the difference of the step down?
air AND rum
That's how we learned in shop, because I'm old enough to have analogue calipers that don't have that feature.
Theunofficialresults seems more reliable than the way he showed it, not that it would make a ton of difference. I work in a lab and sometimes we have to measure mass by difference when we’re doing certain things, so it seemed reasonable that you could measure length the same way. I guess as long as everything is flush and parallel it wouldn’t matter too much
air AND rum
Yes, you could, but what if the part was 15” long rather than 2” long.
The point was to show you all about the step measuring feature. You don’t have to use it every time, but it’s there if you need it.
I use it all the time when chambering barrels to measure the tenon length on barrels. Once I get really close, I switch to depth mic.
Erik Cortina oh, that makes sense
Erik Cortina
I know it's not very practical for a reloader to own, but there were depth gauges in the shop for the measurements you are speaking of.
Still good info to know about certain calipers having that option, although my old dial Browne and Sharpe calipers don't, so I just have to do the math instead.
I use my feeler gauge to confirm caliper accuracy. Here's a tip regarding using a feeler gauge for measurements. By stacking some of the blades of a feeler gauge together, you can get larger thickness measurements. If you put all of the blades from .003 to .022 side by side, and measure that, those add up to .250 which gives you 1/4". Add from .003 to .019 to get .187(5) aka 3/16" (6/32, 12/64). Add 8-17 to get .125 aka 1/8". Add 14 15 16 17 to get .062(5) aka 1/16th. I may not be the first to figure this out, but I figured it out on my own and wanted to share with anyone else who may not already know it. Also, if you have quality drill bits you can trust, you can use the base of the bit as a measure of diameter (or the outside of the drill bit, if the diameter of the bit is larger than the base, like my 3/4" Fisch bit). You were right, I hadn't thought of the fourth way, so, thanks for this!
Ok so... imma be that guy. First off though, really been enjoying your content since i found you last week. If I didn't respect you and your competence i would not be bothering to type this.
If your calipers are not reading 1.0000 on a 1" STD they are either not zeroed correctly, you are not applying pressure properly (i.e flat and the same as when you zeroed) or they are trash. That accuracy rating is +/-.001 over the 6' range of the tool. So it should be +/-
Thank you.
All these comments and this is the only one that didn't leave me wondering about the future of humanity. Light consistent pressure, with wiped jaws should provide */- .0005 accuracy. (Still use mic's for critical parts.) In fact, in instances of measuring soft materials, I have found calipers to be easier because I can feel the material better than with mic's because the clutch hinders feel... to a certain degree.
I thought some of ya'll may find this funny, when I first started machining, I made parts for cigarette vending machines. Can you imagine having those around... lol , how old am I? We made a lot of other things too. mostly sewing machine parts. Did that for five years then moved to another company and manufactured contact lenses.
Thank you Erik I have been a mechanic for decades and a hand loader longer and did not know about the 4 the .
My Idustrial Arts instructor taught us this, he was a great man, he was the same man that taught my father how to weld in highschool.
Loving the comments.... "I'm and engineering and I've know for 40+ years".. No shit. I'd suggest that this video is more for those that aren't engineers, Maybe model makers or 3d printers. If you've been an engineer for 40+ years then this is kind of basic stuff. I mean like I've only been an engineer for 34 years and even I knew ;-)
.....actually, you must be a mechanical engineer. I believe civil, chemical, electrical, and other engineers can benefit from this "fourth" means of measurement. I've always used the depth rod to make shoulder measurements and now know a better way; so there ya go. And I've been at my job almost 44 years. I think everyone should learn something new every day.
I worked in calibration labs for something like 25 years, and another few years performing accreditation assessments - and even I learned a couple of new things. Granted, my work was principaly on on the electrical-electronic side of metrology, but I had to learn some of the physical-dimensional side as well. Partly to know how to use dimensional measuring tools used especially in microwave systems; partly because of personal interest, and even more when I started doing accreditation assessments - because I had to know at least enough to detect a plate of BS when it was being thrown at me. The knowledge also helped while being a co-author of ASQ's Metrology Handbook. But still never knew about using the back side. (I knew about the difficulty with the depth bar when the tail of the caliper is not fully supported from personal experience ... )
@@finallyitsed2191 One of my own personal goals - try to learn one new (useful) thing every day.
I never knew that about the caliper step, thanks Eric!
after being a tool maker for the last 35 years i know that calipers are not for precision measurements
But you can use a caliper as a comparison tool for extremely accurate measuring down to plus or minus one ten thousandth of an inch.
yup.. get out the surface plate, height gauge and mic
@@pauls5745 LOL, yeah like every reloader has those items
I started using calipers just 2 1/2 years ago...so I have a lot to learn. Now I know 4 ways to measure. Thanks for the instruction.
Will you show us how to neck size lol
lol
Hahaha!
Eric is fun to mess with. Eric what happened to you light ..lol
Stewart County Ballistics
Battery died. 🤷♂️
I learned something new today, which I always love to do. Thank you!
Also wrong use; Using them as scribe tool......DONT!
Also wrong use; Using imperial instead of metric!! :P
So when I'm working on the airplanes I worked on for 42 years, I have to take the conventional (NOT IMPERIAL) unit measurements in those hundreds of thousands of technical data pages and convert them. . . I get it. Smart.
@@paulcrumley9756 Hahahah that would be a B.!!!
But I do think working in Metric would be a lot more sensible and faster then using, 3/16...and so on, fractions...
But héy, I get it, if everything has always been a curtain way, it's almost impossible to switch..
You didn't notice the :P ? :)
Metric is the devil! 😈
@@k5blaze84 The Metriconspiracy!
the best use for a Harbor Freight calipers is as a scribe tool... they pretty much suck at everything else... (-:
You can also use them as an adjustable spanner!
Forget Patreon; they just dumped a few dozen channels because.
..Freedom and Love...? .. :-)..
All the Best.
WISDOM
GUIDANCE
STRENGTH
SHIELD
Thank you! I was looking up depth gauges to be able to measure what step 4 can do. I was doing it the way you showed how most do it .
I bet there is not one 'engineer' in this world who doesn't know your 4th option.
Or the fifth one of measuring hole pitches or lug centres or under cuts. Or gear tooth pitches. I guess you could bring a few to mind I haven’t mentioned.
Wow had no idea! This will seriously come in handy for my 3d printing hobby. Thank you!
I wonder how many machinists clicked to see what he got right or wrong.
Two hundred thirty seven, and counting.
count me as 1
@@jbbolts Count me as another.
You forgot to mention the tip radius of the tool that cut the step diameter. When you use the depth gauge there is a radius to step the measurement point out from that radius. The square-ground end of the jaws can sit anywhere on that radius and give an incorrect reading. No point in having accurate instruments if you don't use them accurately.
Spot on observation. If he's trying to claim that they give accurate measurements, then it should have been pointed out in the video. I refer to mine as the 'Very Near Calipers' and wouldn't use them for anything that needed to be better than 0.005"
Pretty sure my stuck calipers are causing warped rotors, leading to shaky stops.
Know I have to say that’s funny
Sounds like your calipers are indicating that your brakes out of spec ;-)
They are definitely way past factory tolerances. :)
Omg, u are spot on 100% , been using calipers forever and been using 1-3 methods but never knew the 4th where I could have used this hundreds of times. Thank you, thank you, thank you! Liked and subscribed brother
I've been a professional Machinist for 35 years and never thought or heard of this fourth way, I'll try it.
Yeah. Usually takes a Master Machinist to know these things.
Or a Master Magician...
Damn straight dude thank you , you just taught me something... very rare !!!! I am humbled and in gratitude!!!! cheers
You are using your calipers wrong. You're supposed to switch them to metric before using.
I gather there is a movement in the US to go metric.
Well think about it there are 4.5 litres per gallon in Australia we use litres at $ 2 plus for diesel fuel, at per litre it's easier for the companies to raise the price of fuel in small bits than say for a gallon. In Aussie we pay as I said say $2.05 a litre which works out at approx $9.22 a gallon. Where at the moment national average of regular is $ 3.513 and diesel is $3.832 a gallon.
That is where the Aussie $ is worth $ 0.64 cents in US $. We Aussies are getting ripped ogg big time.
Metrics is great in measuring so easy to work out, but it causes inflation.
No idea why, but this video randomly appeared in my UA-cam feed today. Man, am I glad it did.... great stuff. Thumbs and subs!
Been a toolmaker for 40 years---I call calipers "guessing sticks." Another use of this feature is for accurate marking out from an edge. Simply set the measurement and place the shoulder of the slide on the side of the workpiece and scribe across the end of the caliper.
😂
You were right, I didn’t know about the fourth way!
I had an electronic caliper and it wasn't accurate at all. Whatever i did it stayed like that. So I stuck with an old school reliable non-electronic caliper.
I still keep a set of good dial calipers just in case the EMP destroys all my tiny batteries ! Ha Ha ! No seriously I do keep a set just to keep me from becoming too electronically lazy I suppose. Its the one I usually grab for everyday mundane measuring.