I would also add that with your current design of stove legs you could easily use tent stakes to stake the stove to the ground increasing its stability.
Thank you for your work . built a few stoves already with all sorts of materials . my daughter has just completed a project for a science expo and it works wonders especially here in South Africa were we have goverment mandated rolling blackouts and cost of fuel and lpg gas have increased drastically . Shout Out from Cape Town South Africa
You value input like a professional, that is to me the only way to get better at anything. Sometimes it's not easy, especially as men, to hear "that can be done better", especially when you've demonstrated that you put a lot of time and thought into the final designs. I myself want to get into selling these on the weekends at flea markets or even online. Looking around on Etsy I see a lot of variety, but none that really stick out as profitable from a time standpoint. I try to use the k.i.s.s method whenever I'm fabricating something.
Thank you, I try my best. But I'm human just like everyone else. I've never had a problem with constructive criticism. In fact I value it. The kiss method is also what I tried using when designing these stoves. Simple and rugged.
Regarding tipping, make the back leg a horizontal tube and include a piece of round stock with it to slide into that tube. Make it about a foot long. You can store it in the vertical chimney. Can be aluminum tubing even to lighten it.
Great design, dude, have a German cousin that met up with me several years ago talking about rocket stoves, fell in love with em. And the mass heaters and all, and all fuels that can be used...... wonderful stuff. Thanks for this. Well done.
10 rocket stoves and an Eden Pure, just caught me as ironic, lol. Built my first and last out 4x4 1/8", works great no doors and shelf brackets for legs. Not perfect, heats water and they're just fun to mess with, keep up the good work and don't worry about haters, they'll always hate.
Keep the design for the front legs except arch or angle the centerline surface up/in to prevent rocking on an uneven surface. Replace the rear foot structure and with a single leg for a semi-tripod approach to ease unlevel surface use. At the bottom of the back foot weld a large washer or a "V" shape perpendicular to the ground as a foot bottom allowing the use of a stake or very large nail to secure stove from tipping over.
Design idea: Maybe use (square) tubes as legs. That way you can widen the stance with whatever you find on your location. Anything you find that fits in the tubes.. Great content btw, I'm subscribing.
Glad to have you and thank you. Tubing unfortunately is very expensive when compared to solid stock. I try to keep the cost of the stoves as low as possible. Adding tubing for legs would increase labor and material cost time.
Possibly a little shorter - but a bigger plate support is needed like your X-Support but longer to better hold a pot or pan. I'd also suggest 1/2" ReBar for legs - but - bent in an Inverter U shape so legs touch ground not cross piece. And the legs are semi-pointed. The reason is that the stove is used outdoors in rocky/sandy/dirty environment and "pointy" legs will better set in that type of terrain. In addition, they need to be splayed out and forward to provide a lot of stability. They are easy to make (2 bends) and put on (2 Welds). The top skillet supports, as stated, need to be much bigger, it also could be removable by having it "slip on" the edge of the pipe. You could use a tube and socket for the legs and the end of the legs have pivot feet. The legs come off and store inside so when in use they come out, fit into the sockets and are adjustable for length due to wing bolts on the sockets and feet pivot for un-even terrain. Much more complex and could be an option, but would get rid of the leg "length" (still need sockets for legs to fit into and they only need to be 1 to 2 inches long) Option no. ?: You could weld up a socket that 1/2" ReBar fits into and they just sit in them with weight keeping everything there. Simple and the legs can be as long as you want. Just don't forget to angle them - outward would work best. 😁 My 2 cents (PS - what do they sell for? I've seen $225 to $500)
as long as the ash dump is fairly tight they are just fine, and that was just my personal experience. A different design would probably work just fine.
yo man, don't stress about the haters, you did your research, you put in the time to gain the knowledge and clearly it paid of, I made my first rocket stove yesterday and seeing your video is really reassuring and forgive me for this but i am really temped to lend some of your designs for either my next stove of for modifications for the one I have now
I don't, I've grown a thick skin :) And ty. But these criticisms were far from cruel. Whenever you build a product you always have to deal with criticisms both positive and negative.
I have built a few stoves. A couple of things I could suggest. I find the best configuration for the grill is an X or an *, so that any size pot/pan from small to large is comfortable on top. Also, perhaps the door is overkill. I have an L shaped stove and just a moveable horizontal plate 1/2 way. It rockets amazingly well. Love your work (and humility).
When I paused the video at 2:25 I can tolerate the one closest to you sweetheart. And maby the second one in the front row. And your right about preppers. Would love to send you a print out, of my design. And would insist on all stainless steel. Great video thank you so very very much sugar bear 🐻!!!
Don't want to criticize. I made one and used the solid rod that you have for legs to make the grate under the pan...I made my legs out of square tubing...Love your legs! my top grate makes it look like an indoor gas stove burner.
You’re on the right track. That base works good on a cement floor in the garage but I wouldn’t bet on it being sturdy out at a campsite. I would suggest possibly using the same material you made the legs out of, bend them slightly and weld two “C” shaped pieces to the bottom outsides of the front legs to the back legs. 😉👍
Nice work. It may be more unstable outdoors on uneven ground. Fixed legs are tricky as , the more stable , the less compact it is. A slight modification i would make is, lift the bar on the bottom up an inch . No extra work, just two more blobs of weld on each leg. It would make it more stable soft ground as you could push in an inch or so of the leg bar into the ground before the cross bar touched the soil.
I understand what you're saying. And with the current design it does do just that. With just a slight bit of pressure it will sit evenly on soft uneven ground.
Homey what you need is a 14, or 15 inch cold cut/dry cut chop saw, evolution is a great brand cuts tubing like that like butter clean cold no dust no heat..
Great video. Like said, you can't please everyone but, it's definitely nice to get feedback. I made my first stove about 11 years ago, something I just enjoy doing. I like your design, keep up the great work.
I fabricated my 1st rocket back in 2019, when i found (here on youtube) this genius idea. Could not help myself to play around with different designs, styles, materials, sections etc. the Rocket is not rocket science but still a laborious piece. I gave away and sold every one of them. I got my own model now and it’s getting popular. 😎
I don't know if anyone has already said this, but if you are using these outdoors, you could simply use some metal stakes on the legs and it would be rock solid my Brother. 😃 You could even sell the stakes as accessories.
Criticism is never gonna stop. You can't please the whole world. Plus some of it comes from competition. Someone just trying to have you chase your tail so to speak. Build your product. If sales are good. Then run with what you have. I myself am here to see how these are made. I'm looking into it as a business as well. But, I have nothing good or bad to say about your designs. I see room to improve on it. And I'll keep it to myself.
Honestly criticism neither positive or negative bothers me. When you're in the welding world your work is criticized on a daily basis. But you're right though, if you have a good product people will buy it.
I just built my first rocket stove, and I put the legs on the side with some scrap I had(to prevent tipping). One thing I want to eventually add is like a drawer/cache on the bottom to clean out ash easier. Haven't figured out the design yet, I saw that you had a version like that. If you figure out a way to incorporate one that works efficiently , please make a video.
I think he said in the video that unless it's air tight you lose force. That's why he went to a closed bottom. Re-watch & check it out. I'm watching these videos for my first attempt at building one. I was planning on a ash dump too, DARN IT.
Hi. The biggest issue with rocket stoves in general is that although they burn super efficiently, super hot, they also super fast. they don't retain heat. I also found that the fastest way to boil water is to use a Kelly kettle, or Giddy(?) kettle, or storm kettle. Also secondary combustion stoves provide less smoke, more privacy and more efficient burning. So my suggestion would be: make double walled removable attachments that the average prepper can put right on top of the fire chamber. So instead of just the tall chimney, one could pop the secondary combustion chamber on top (it actually could surround the "fire chamber", the bottom part of the stove, and it could be a folding one too, then the water tank with the chimney middle could be popped on top to heat water, with inlet at the bottom & outlet at the top, using the thermosyphon effect for circulation. It would be much more efficient than the usual copper pipe coiled around the flue. I know it's complicated but with your experience you could narrow it down to the most straightforward and efficient design.
Nice stove. Good design. The tipping concerns are uneven ground, with water that can slosh back and forth in the pot, adding to the instability. Only cures there are as you say, lower center of gravity, or a bigger footprint, which will have the drawback of increased weight. It's a tradeoff.
Hope you see this. I'm out in the pacific north west. Every summer we get burn bans to prevent forest fires. But they allow gas burners while camping. Have you considered designing and testing a propane burner to run seasonally?
@wesleyshafer6310 No sorry I have not. If you're looking for input on a homemade burner , the only advice I can offer is look up something called a venturi burner.
I would keep the door on the feeder tube closed and use the front of the vertical tube for air flow. Then I would put an adjustable flu in the front of the vertical tube just slightly recessed, then make a small long Ash can that slides in from the front of the vertical tube that fits in just recessed on the sides and is just short enough to fit below the pivoting point of the flu, that way you can empty the ash anytime you want without disturbing your burn.
I love your rocket stoves, I want to model mine after those so I just went and welded myself a rocket stove, I used 2 inch square steel, I didn't have anything bigger, it's my second real time welding. I think it looks great! but I messed up my cuts and had to bridge two 3/16 inch gaps, that was tough, it took 3 welds and grinds to finish it.
Looking at the design, if the feet were much wider it might start making the thing too bulky to have strapped to a backpack, so personally, If stability was a concern, I'd probably pack a handful of hose clamps with it so I could find, and clamp, some suitable bits of branch across the legs when I got where I was going. This would mean it could be as stable or compact as anyone could want it, depending on how long the lengths of branch they choose are.
You don't strap a stove made out of steel to a backpack for hiking unless you like pain. Make one out of soup cans for back packing or dig 2 holes side by side connect them on the bottom wack you got a natural rocket stove. No metal needed.
I made one from 5mm steel box 100mm square. It sold on Etsy for almost $400 and the owner is delighted with it, mind you it cost me over £90 to send it to the US from the UK! To make them to last for years you have to make them from robust steel, I reckon anything under 3mm is asking for trouble after a few years of use. A friend of mine bought one of those made from 1mm plate and it got dented and even warped with the heat! This is why I made one from 5mm box as it will last a lifetime or several LOL
I'm flattered that you like.my design. However, sorry to disapoint.. But I'll probably never do a complete video on how I build my stoves. There's lots of rocket stove videos already, and the few tweaks I've put into my stoves are a trade secret :)
I would rotate the handle like 30 degrees and shorten the stick connecting it by 30%. That way friction keeps it in your hand instead of using grip strength to hold it. Does it work with wood chips or sawdust pellets?
hey, i had a question. i am looking into making my own stove and i was wondering if you can tell me how the "K" design works and is better than the "L" models. like in your eariler builds you were using an "L" model, why the "K" does it need to have a feeder tube and a large air intake tube. thanks for your time. -don
Good questions. The L models I made earlier were made from 2.5 inch tubing and was just to small. I recommend at least 3 inch tubing. L models give much more control with fuel consumption, but require much more fire maintenance. K models, it's basically dump and go. With any fire, the more air, the hotter it gets. But I have seen K models with a combo air and fuel hopper.
Thanks for the video. Can I ask why you moved away from the cross-piece on the top of the stove? It would seem to me as though that would not only be more stable but quicker to make than the cut-outs. I will admit that it requires extra material, but I think it's still worth it for the pot stability advantage.
It's a fair question. Production wise making the standoffs was a lot quicker. However, I did eventually go back to a cross design that you can see one of my other videos. It was the number one piece of feedback I got from customers, asking for a larger surface area. One of my big selling points with these stoves is that they're fairly easy to move around. It was just one last thing that a camper had to worry about losing or forgetting.
The simpler you can make your design the better. You'll definitely need to put a screen in between the fuel and the bottom of the stove so the ash and small coals can fall through. Make sure the holes aren't too big or otherwise the coals won't pile up to create heat and you'll have a weak fire. Easiest design would probably be a small door with a built in tray, either on the back of the stove or the side.
@@steelforestweldingandforge a simple stovepipe rocked stove I describe in the comments produces lots of charcoal because the fire burns so fast it gets past unburned wood then there is no oxygen left and the unburnt wood turns into charcoal . If I want to I can extend my burn by a lot after all the wood is done by burning the charcoal witch will now burn because the charcoal now gets oxygen but if you want to save it you can.
@@steelforestweldingandforgeI tested this and it does not work well if you fully load the burn chamber lightly with air spaces in between I e natural round sticks I get the best burn but all rocket stoves are not the same so it may work great in yours.
i like your designs , being a aussie we like our back yard bbqs on larger plate / rack etc , soon i will be building one out of blocks , fire bricks and maybe some rocks ,thinking about also building a larger type rocket stove incorperated it it to use as a wok burner etc .. keep up the good work
@@steelforestweldingandforge.... trouble is cinderblocks dont last long due to cracking which is why building the fire pit part of the bbq will line it with fire bricks..... but fire bricks really dont lend them self into a rocket stove design ... so thinking a metal r/stove incorperated into the block bbq even if i have to line it in with f/bricks to protect the blocks
what is your opinion about using outside cold air for carbeuration, or instead to “Pre-heat” somehow, the air that is going to be used for carbeuration.
Yes I have. With the feedback I have had from clients, no one typically runs them long enough to produce large amounts of ash. Combustion is also almost 100% when the stove is running well. Most ash powder is so fine, it blows away.
That criticism has come up before with clients and other people and it's a valuable criticism. From my experimentation and from customer feedback it's hasn't been a problem. That is, as long as appropriately sized pots and skillets are used. If someone were to try and use a 15in skillet for example, yes the stand-offs would be to small. But also, this size stove isn't designed for cooking utensils that large. So far there haven't been any customer complaints. Thanks for the feedback!
I think the legs would have low surface for soft ground. Like in a mash, tundera or winter setting. Maybe a standoff/spacer with disc/plate foot could work?
cool-weld a sleeve on one leg at bottom on the side to slide a piece of rod or rebar through-maybe a couple of feet-would be removable and very hard to turn over-works for me
I'm sure someone else probably already suggested this & I know it's probably not considered an optimal solution, but since the stove you addressed high c.o.g. concerns is already a fairly beefy size (i.e. not designed with portability as a defining trait), why not simply weld some scrap plate steel to the underside as a counterweight-ballast for enhanced stability? In my mind I see that as an opportunity for dual satisfaction by: 1.) Having forum brats shut yaps (which can obviously benefit from a "publicist's makeover" in its phrasing if one cares) while concurrently & most importantly 2.) Not needing to go back to the drawing board in order to meddle with what's obviously some stellar design & workmanship you're offering.
That would be a solution for flat solid ground. It will also unfortunately increase production time, shipping costs, and material costs. Best solution I have seen offered is simple tent stakes. And thank you for the kind words as well :)
So with your skills maybe you caan do something like that. It would be one more utse from the stoves you make. I would like to see the results.@@steelforestweldingandforge
The stability is fine on concrete, but check the stability while out in the back 40. Soft or uneven ground may give you different results with your stability test. Wider leg profile would be preferred.
This was a good, measured, response. I always thought the looped legs were so you could stake it to the ground so a wagging tail or a kid's frisbee didnt topple it over....I expressly looked for a stove that made that possible with ease.....pretty sure preppers have stakes ....lots of em LOL. I'm curious if you have any thoughts on that Giraffe Stove design ....looks like a lot of hinges..... sure takes up a lot of room. Pellet stoves are somthing I'm curious about as well.... the idea of a 5-7 hour hopper feed literally and figuratively gives me warm feelings. .....but the ash-out is my biggest concern .....a good ash removal system actually matters more to me as a sustainability and reliability engineer than heating 5min faster and 30deg hotter. But I'm old school, calories and hydration and layers keep me warm.....stoves are a luxury. I dont suppose people on the forum complained the draft height needed to be adjustable for different densities of air (both altitude and humidity) .....something you absolutely should NOT be nitpicking on other people's behalf. If folks want an aerospike stove that has quantum encryped WiFi, slices bread, and weighs less than a can of soup.....let them put in the R&D time and $$$$.😅
The giraffe style stove design is something I'd never seen before prior to you mentioning it. Typically, with rocket stoves, the larger the chimney or draft, the more powerful it is. So assuming this thing is fairly airtight, I'd imagine it would be quite powerful. I could see too how you could take advantage of putting pots further away from the heat source to have a slower and gentler heat. But I have no personal experience with this stove design. I am currently working on a pellet insert for my stoves. But i'm still prototyping. Thanks for watching.
Metal fabricator of 23 years and journeyman sheet metal worker in the union have industry here. I can say this about "draft": the smoother the tube is that the air moves through the higher velocity it can pick up. So the "L" shape main tube would draft alot better with a "turn vane" or something in the bottom. Regardless of the other aspects of the stove design, two 45* angles on the bottom elbow will draft better than 1, 90* corner I promise.
How about trying a single round leg,diameter equal to distance between the legs of the model you knocked over,same material that the current legs are made from,welded with struts of the same to the base in at least 4 spots... this should prevent most tip-overs..???
Ok, took me a minute to understand what you were describing but I got it. One advantage to the leg style I have is they work fairly well on uneven ground and they are fairly quick and easy to fabricate.
I saw someone use pieces of the tube for the stove as legs. It may work if you used the part of the tube for the wood intake that you cut of and weld it to the bottom in 45 or more degrees to zhe outside. I dont know how well it works tho.
Just a wider leg base will help. You could also make fold the legs with a small nut and stop on the leg portion if the width is wider then you care for it to be
I think your stove looks good. I assume that the bottom tube is an air intake. I found that there will be a cold draft at that point, Consider putting the intake on the back so that your feet don't chill. My designs pull the air to the front and then back to the combustion chamber while pre warming it. If you try it let me know what you think.
Thank you, yes the bottom tube is air intake. I understand your concept of pre warming the air, I'm just Is having trouble visualizing your design. But you have peaked my interest. Any chance you have a picture or a video somewhere?
@@steelforestweldingandforge Sorry no I don't have a picture or video. Let me illustrate the concept. let's say you add another tube to the bottom making the necessary changes to allow the air to come in at the back bottom flow forward then up then back the existing tube to the combustion chamber. I am currently making a horizontal barrel stove with a door on the front. The combustion air comes in the back and flows thru tube steel under the fire (edit: located inside the barrel) to the front where it is released having been pre heated into the combustion chamber and flows back thru the fire and out the stove pipe / chimney. Then additionally I add an after burner chamber with its own pre heated combustion air via tube steel running thru the primary combustion chamber to achieve a "rocket" effect and "smoke free" low smoke fire.
use angle iron or round legs that slide into a slot in each corner. they can be as long as your chimney and stored inside when not in use. they should have about a 45° (have to play around with that and see what's best) bend right where they attach to the stove to create a wider base. Adds almost no weight and will be way more stable and smaller footprint when stored.
I imagine 4 hoops on the legs that would allow two 24" hunks of rebar to be threaded through them from side to side. This would eliminate the rocking in your push test and would require REAL effort to tip it over. Rings made from pipe would work fine. The rebar could be pulled out and the result would be just as portable as your current design. Wood dowels could be used to save weight.
Functionality there is no difference between square or round tubing. The big difference is square tubing is much easier to fabricate than round. Layout, marking, and squaring are much easier. The only advantage to round tubing I can think of is that it cuts much easier than square tubing.
I've been thinking of ways to build a pool/spa rocket stove heater, any suggestions on maximizing the heat transfer without most of it going up the stack?
Yes, there are several different ppl who design indoor stoves. This design is for outdoors only. What you are looking for most likely is called a rocket stove mass heater.
Maybe if the legs had a tab with a hole in it, an aluminum trnt peg could be used to hold it down more securely? Alternatively some cleats on the feet would allow the stove to be pushed into the ground?
maybe add straight bars of Rebar like you used to bend it looks like to each leg ( ( adding 3 inches or so to each side ) and then even using say metal clothes hangers ( cut into "v" shape bends like a tent stake etc ) to bury in ground could make it near impossible to ever tip over :)
There are rocket stoves that are specifically designed for heating. They are typically referred to as rocket stove mass heaters. This design that I have is solely for outside cooking purposes only. It is not safe for indoor use.
As a matter of fact I do sell these stoves. You can follow the link in the description to my Facebook business page and send me a message if you're interested in purchasing one.
@@RockieRoadz I decided not to make an Etsy account. Between the fees for venmo and PayPal, the fees on Facebook Stores, and the fees for Etsy it just doesn't make that make it profitable. So instead I opted to sell directly to people.
@@steelforestweldingandforge Ah that makes sense. I’ll send you a message on FB. I know metal prices fluctuate so I don’t expect a long-term quote due to the current economy rushing into communsm
I need a rocket stove idea for using in my garage. I don't want to have to duct it through the wall or ceiling, though. Ideally I want to be able to just quickly assemble stove pipe and disassemble as needed. The stove would sit just inside the overhead door while open of course. any ideas? thanks in advance
I like your design but it's hard to learn from praise. I would suggest anyone that thinks that stove will tip over to use tent stakes over the legs, then quit drinking they may be the ones tipping over. :)
HTD should be 1:3 for average stability. I.E. 30” high stove would require a 10” wide base. Obviously this totally depends on your application and your intended level of risk mitigation.
Good to know. The reason these are designed the way they are is for transportation and easy fabrication. A larger base adds a lot more to shipping costs, and makes it more difficult to transport in the field.
I would love to make one but don't have welder. You said you have to really give it a push for it to go over. What if you had two rods in upside down "V" free to move when tilted to prevent a total tip over of the stove itself. Just asking. Not an engineer.
I have seen people make these out of threaded piping. Maybe you can go that route. I do sell these if you are interested. I don't mind constructive criticism at all. If I'm invisioning your upside down v idea correctly, the main issue would be the legs sinking into soft earth. Thanks for watching.
For the Prepper community and you & me Just for your FYI> if I may suggest a small improvement in the building of the rocket stove FYI the top piece where the pans and utensils go on top. The area has is not wide enough, I cant tell how many time my nonstick pans have fallen off the stove. Most rocket stove users are having this problem. Now the solution is can you put a round bottom wok on it and cook Beef and Broccoli? If the top resting place for pans and be widened and it can cradle all woks and pans 23 inches or larger than you have a winner. I am sending you a link from UA-cam, i hope you will enjoy it. I hope you dont lose, any breakfast or lunch slipping off into the nest county. Best Regards ua-cam.com/video/nBKGW3Fumhc/v-deo.html
First off, thx for watching. Second, I never turn down constructive criticism offered in a positive way, which you did. I have very recently altered the design to the grate of my stoves. A video of the new design is available in my profile. The reason I had for the older the design was for portability, manufacturing, and shipping costs. These stoves take more than 5 hours to make, so they are not very profitable from a welder/fabricator perspective. And the cost for these is highly competitive. Any additional fabrication would require me to increase product and shipping costs . If someone asked me to specifically make a ring shaped top I absolutely would. For an additional cost. You are correct about a ring on top for a wok. These, however, are designed to be used more with a cast iron skillet.
Watching the history Channel alone, I have seen many people lose their food in their campfires, so a stove tipping over is an issue. The stove you tipped over could be braced with large stones to prevent this. If you want to improve your rocket stove legs, could you punch and drill holes in the legs so that steaks can be driven through them into the ground so that it could take a big hit?
Absolutely, yes you could. However, titanium is VERY expensive. But if you're willing to put in the investment I could see it being a very good material.
I saw a comment about the fuel can possibly catch fire and the fire travels upwards. This seems like a danger that's inherent in the designs across the industry. I know that the mitigation (for pellets) is to have a catch that pellets fall through but it still seems like a reverse burn is a possibility.
This has honestly never been a problem for me. In fact, i've seen a lot of stoves that instead of a forty five degree feed angle, the heavy ninety degree feed angle. I would assume it's just that because the draft is so powerful. This reverse burning isn't just a normal phenomenon. But by looking at rocket stove designs I could see why some people would have that concern.
I think you should design one for us preppers. Like make one thats pack friendly man. This thing would send ya right to the bottom of tbe lake its so big. I want to live to get to other side of lake to use your rocket stove to save my life and make some freeze dried stew. Thats just my opinion. Its usually pretty opiinionated so dont let me rain on your fire. I think it's hot beans.
This is actually something I have given some serious thought to. An ultra light collapsible stove. But I just don't have the equipment to build them atm. But yes, my stoves are designed for permanent and semi-permanent camping. I wouldn't recommend backpacking with one of these.
@@steelforestweldingandforge i think your a good person with a good product. Its good to see people wanting to win over there customers without bad mouthing everyone who has diffrent opinion then them.. i look forward to seeing your rocket on the go stove in future. Stay free, stay prepped and stay busy.
I would also add that with your current design of stove legs you could easily use tent stakes to stake the stove to the ground increasing its stability.
Tent 🎪 stakes excellent idea!!!
Or rocks
Great idea. Even make a little hole on the stove for the stakes.
I was just gonna say the same thing but I just stumbled across this guy
Great idea sir!
Thank you for your work . built a few stoves already with all sorts of materials . my daughter has just completed a project for a science expo and it works wonders especially here in South Africa were we have goverment mandated rolling blackouts and cost of fuel and lpg gas have increased drastically . Shout Out from Cape Town South Africa
Happy to help in any way if I can, if you need any advice let me know.
Have a go at an ooni type pizza oven. I'd imagine it would be quite easy with your knowledge and equipment
Man, this guy loves hearing criticism. especially from preppers. Keep it coming y'all! he loves the criticism
You value input like a professional, that is to me the only way to get better at anything. Sometimes it's not easy, especially as men, to hear "that can be done better", especially when you've demonstrated that you put a lot of time and thought into the final designs. I myself want to get into selling these on the weekends at flea markets or even online. Looking around on Etsy I see a lot of variety, but none that really stick out as profitable from a time standpoint. I try to use the k.i.s.s method whenever I'm fabricating something.
Thank you, I try my best. But I'm human just like everyone else. I've never had a problem with constructive criticism. In fact I value it. The kiss method is also what I tried using when designing these stoves. Simple and rugged.
Regarding tipping, make the back leg a horizontal tube and include a piece of round stock with it to slide into that tube. Make it about a foot long. You can store it in the vertical chimney. Can be aluminum tubing even to lighten it.
What price is your latest model.
Great design, dude, have a German cousin that met up with me several years ago talking about rocket stoves, fell in love with em. And the mass heaters and all, and all fuels that can be used...... wonderful stuff. Thanks for this. Well done.
10 rocket stoves and an Eden Pure, just caught me as ironic, lol. Built my first and last out 4x4 1/8", works great no doors and shelf brackets for legs. Not perfect, heats water and they're just fun to mess with, keep up the good work and don't worry about haters, they'll always hate.
I'd like to see if you can build a pizza oven like the new ooni type of portable ovens that could be slipped into the top of rocket
Keep the design for the front legs except arch or angle the centerline surface up/in to prevent rocking on an uneven surface. Replace the rear foot structure and with a single leg for a semi-tripod approach to ease unlevel surface use. At the bottom of the back foot weld a large washer or a "V" shape perpendicular to the ground as a foot bottom allowing the use of a stake or very large nail to secure stove from tipping over.
Good observation!
I Love Rocket Stove !
With love from Ukraine to USA !
@@ВасилийВасиленко-ч9г Thank you for watching!
Design idea: Maybe use (square) tubes as legs. That way you can widen the stance with whatever you find on your location. Anything you find that fits in the tubes..
Great content btw, I'm subscribing.
Glad to have you and thank you. Tubing unfortunately is very expensive when compared to solid stock. I try to keep the cost of the stoves as low as possible. Adding tubing for legs would increase labor and material cost time.
@@steelforestweldingandforge Makes sense. And like you demonstrated in the vid, it's pretty sturdy as it is👌
Possibly a little shorter - but a bigger plate support is needed like your X-Support but longer to better hold a pot or pan.
I'd also suggest 1/2" ReBar for legs - but - bent in an Inverter U shape so legs touch ground not cross piece. And the legs are semi-pointed.
The reason is that the stove is used outdoors in rocky/sandy/dirty environment and "pointy" legs will better set in that type of terrain.
In addition, they need to be splayed out and forward to provide a lot of stability. They are easy to make (2 bends) and put on (2 Welds).
The top skillet supports, as stated, need to be much bigger, it also could be removable by having it "slip on" the edge of the pipe.
You could use a tube and socket for the legs and the end of the legs have pivot feet. The legs come off and store inside so when in use they come out, fit into the sockets and are adjustable for length due to wing bolts on the sockets and feet pivot for un-even terrain. Much more complex and could be an option, but would get rid of the leg "length" (still need sockets for legs to fit into and they only need to be 1 to 2 inches long)
Option no. ?: You could weld up a socket that 1/2" ReBar fits into and they just sit in them with weight keeping everything there. Simple and the legs can be as long as you want. Just don't forget to angle them - outward would work best. 😁
My 2 cents (PS - what do they sell for? I've seen $225 to $500)
What a cool video. You sound like a smart and nice guy. I'm subscribing and looking forward to seeing your welding videos!
I'm glad I watched this video, I planning on putting in a ash dump on my first attempt but obviously not now. Thank you for posting.this.
as long as the ash dump is fairly tight they are just fine, and that was just my personal experience. A different design would probably work just fine.
yo man, don't stress about the haters, you did your research, you put in the time to gain the knowledge and clearly it paid of, I made my first rocket stove yesterday and seeing your video is really reassuring and forgive me for this but i am really temped to lend some of your designs for either my next stove of for modifications for the one I have now
I don't, I've grown a thick skin :) And ty. But these criticisms were far from cruel. Whenever you build a product you always have to deal with criticisms both positive and negative.
I have built a few stoves. A couple of things I could suggest. I find the best configuration for the grill is an X or an *, so that any size pot/pan from small to large is comfortable on top. Also, perhaps the door is overkill. I have an L shaped stove and just a moveable horizontal plate 1/2 way. It rockets amazingly well. Love your work (and humility).
@@douggief1367 I.
Agree the x shaped top is much better. I've upgraded my design a little bit since making this video.
Those legs are great for securing with tent pegs. thanks for the video...!
You're welcome! Tent pegs seem to be what most ppl recommend.
When I paused the video at 2:25 I can tolerate the one closest to you sweetheart. And maby the second one in the front row. And your right about preppers. Would love to send you a print out, of my design. And would insist on all stainless steel. Great video thank you so very very much sugar bear 🐻!!!
Don't want to criticize. I made one and used the solid rod that you have for legs to make the grate under the pan...I made my legs out of square tubing...Love your legs! my top grate makes it look like an indoor gas stove burner.
one thing I love about these stoves is how customizable they are. Everyone builds them a little different.
You’re on the right track. That base works good on a cement floor in the garage but I wouldn’t bet on it being sturdy out at a campsite. I would suggest possibly using the same material you made the legs out of, bend them slightly and weld two “C” shaped pieces to the bottom outsides of the front legs to the back legs. 😉👍
Nice work. It may be more unstable outdoors on uneven ground. Fixed legs are tricky as , the more stable , the less compact it is. A slight modification i would make is, lift the bar on the bottom up an inch . No extra work, just two more blobs of weld on each leg. It would make it more stable soft ground as you could push in an inch or so of the leg bar into the ground before the cross bar touched the soil.
I understand what you're saying. And with the current design it does do just that. With just a slight bit of pressure it will sit evenly on soft uneven ground.
That's what I was thinking to it's stable on flat surface, but if you go hiking you have to look for a flatter surface to place it on.
Homey what you need is a 14, or 15 inch cold cut/dry cut chop saw, evolution is a great brand cuts tubing like that like butter clean cold no dust no heat..
Your 100% correct. That is the exact saw setup that I have. I made a video on that setup as well if you are interested.
I welded 2 round tubes to the bottom of my RS and slipped 18" rebars into them for a super stabled removable support.
Sounds like a great idea and thanks for sharing.
Nice work guy, keep up the good work!
Thank you!
Great video. Like said, you can't please everyone but, it's definitely nice to get feedback. I made my first stove about 11 years ago, something I just enjoy doing. I like your design, keep up the great work.
Thank you I appreciate it
I fabricated my 1st rocket back in 2019, when i found (here on youtube) this genius idea. Could not help myself to play around with different designs, styles, materials, sections etc. the Rocket is not rocket science but still a laborious piece. I gave away and sold every one of them. I got my own model now and it’s getting popular. 😎
That's good to hear, glad people are buying your product!
I don't know if anyone has already said this, but if you are using these outdoors, you could simply use some metal stakes on the legs and it would be rock solid my Brother. 😃 You could even sell the stakes as accessories.
sell stakes as well, good idea!
Or the deluxe wingnut adjustable leg $100 upgrade!
Criticism is never gonna stop. You can't please the whole world. Plus some of it comes from competition. Someone just trying to have you chase your tail so to speak. Build your product. If sales are good. Then run with what you have. I myself am here to see how these are made. I'm looking into it as a business as well. But, I have nothing good or bad to say about your designs. I see room to improve on it. And I'll keep it to myself.
Honestly criticism neither positive or negative bothers me. When you're in the welding world your work is criticized on a daily basis. But you're right though, if you have a good product people will buy it.
Oh and if you have any stove questions by all means please ask
I just built my first rocket stove, and I put the legs on the side with some scrap I had(to prevent tipping). One thing I want to eventually add is like a drawer/cache on the bottom to clean out ash easier. Haven't figured out the design yet, I saw that you had a version like that. If you figure out a way to incorporate one that works efficiently , please make a video.
Awesome! Post a video of your stove when you have a chance.
I think he said in the video that unless it's air tight you lose force. That's why he went to a closed bottom. Re-watch & check it out. I'm watching these videos for my first attempt at building one. I was planning on a ash dump too, DARN IT.
I think most of my family and friends have received rocket stoves for Christmas and birthdays as I was working out my designs.
same here!
Hey great stoves, what kind of paint do you use. Only question you didn’t answer.
I use a high heat ceramic paint.Seems to hold up well. No complaints to date.
Hi. The biggest issue with rocket stoves in general is that although they burn super efficiently, super hot, they also super fast. they don't retain heat.
I also found that the fastest way to boil water is to use a Kelly kettle, or Giddy(?) kettle, or storm kettle. Also secondary combustion stoves provide less smoke, more privacy and more efficient burning. So my suggestion would be: make double walled removable attachments that the average prepper can put right on top of the fire chamber. So instead of just the tall chimney, one could pop the secondary combustion chamber on top (it actually could surround the "fire chamber", the bottom part of the stove, and it could be a folding one too, then the water tank with the chimney middle could be popped on top to heat water, with inlet at the bottom & outlet at the top, using the thermosyphon effect for circulation. It would be much more efficient than the usual copper pipe coiled around the flue. I know it's complicated but with your experience you could narrow it down to the most straightforward and efficient design.
Nice stove. Good design. The tipping concerns are uneven ground, with water that can slosh back and forth in the pot, adding to the instability. Only cures there are as you say, lower center of gravity, or a bigger footprint, which will have the drawback of increased weight. It's a tradeoff.
exactly!
Hope you see this. I'm out in the pacific north west. Every summer we get burn bans to prevent forest fires. But they allow gas burners while camping. Have you considered designing and testing a propane burner to run seasonally?
@wesleyshafer6310 No sorry I have not. If you're looking for input on a homemade burner , the only advice I can offer is look up something called a venturi burner.
I would keep the door on the feeder tube closed and use the front of the vertical tube for air flow. Then I would put an adjustable flu in the front of the vertical tube just slightly recessed, then make a small long Ash can that slides in from the front of the vertical tube that fits in just recessed on the sides and is just short enough to fit below the pivoting point of the flu, that way you can empty the ash anytime you want without disturbing your burn.
I love your rocket stoves, I want to model mine after those so I just went and welded myself a rocket stove, I used 2 inch square steel, I didn't have anything bigger, it's my second real time welding. I think it looks great! but I messed up my cuts and had to bridge two 3/16 inch gaps, that was tough, it took 3 welds and grinds to finish it.
Hey that's great! We all start somewhere. If you ever post a video of the stove in action be sure to please send me a link!
Looking at the design, if the feet were much wider it might start making the thing too bulky to have strapped to a backpack, so personally, If stability was a concern, I'd probably pack a handful of hose clamps with it so I could find, and clamp, some suitable bits of branch across the legs when I got where I was going. This would mean it could be as stable or compact as anyone could want it, depending on how long the lengths of branch they choose are.
good idea
You don't strap a stove made out of steel to a backpack for hiking unless you like pain. Make one out of soup cans for back packing or dig 2 holes side by side connect them on the bottom wack you got a natural rocket stove. No metal needed.
I made one from 5mm steel box 100mm square. It sold on Etsy for almost $400 and the owner is delighted with it, mind you it cost me over £90 to send it to the US from the UK!
To make them to last for years you have to make them from robust steel, I reckon anything under 3mm is asking for trouble after a few years of use. A friend of mine bought one of those made from 1mm plate and it got dented and even warped with the heat! This is why I made one from 5mm box as it will last a lifetime or several LOL
Could you do a video showing how you built the last one. Would love to build one like it.
I'm flattered that you like.my design. However, sorry to disapoint.. But I'll probably never do a complete video on how I build my stoves. There's lots of rocket stove videos already, and the few tweaks I've put into my stoves are a trade secret :)
@@steelforestweldingandforge Ok, thanks !
I would rotate the handle like 30 degrees and shorten the stick connecting it by 30%. That way friction keeps it in your hand instead of using grip strength to hold it. Does it work with wood chips or sawdust pellets?
You could add a hand drive cork screw to help secure it firmly to the ground. Then it wouldn't be able to fall over.
All you need is a piece of rebar hammered into the ground and a wrap of bare wire around to secure it from falling over.
Drill holes in the feet for a stake
hey, i had a question. i am looking into making my own stove and i was wondering if you can tell me how the "K" design works and is better than the "L" models. like in your eariler builds you were using an "L" model, why the "K" does it need to have a feeder tube and a large air intake tube. thanks for your time. -don
Good questions. The L models I made earlier were made from 2.5 inch tubing and was just to small. I recommend at least 3 inch tubing. L models give much more control with fuel consumption, but require much more fire maintenance. K models, it's basically dump and go. With any fire, the more air, the hotter it gets. But I have seen K models with a combo air and fuel hopper.
Have you tried adding rods on the sides to make a square bottom?
Thanks for the video. Can I ask why you moved away from the cross-piece on the top of the stove? It would seem to me as though that would not only be more stable but quicker to make than the cut-outs. I will admit that it requires extra material, but I think it's still worth it for the pot stability advantage.
It's a fair question. Production wise making the standoffs was a lot quicker. However, I did eventually go back to a cross design that you can see one of my other videos. It was the number one piece of feedback I got from customers, asking for a larger surface area. One of my big selling points with these stoves is that they're fairly easy to move around. It was just one last thing that a camper had to worry about losing or forgetting.
Thanks for the video. I need one that has a large coal dump. I want to be able to use the coals to fire my smoker. Any suggestions on how to build it?
The simpler you can make your design the better. You'll definitely need to put a screen in between the fuel and the bottom of the stove so the ash and small coals can fall through. Make sure the holes aren't too big or otherwise the coals won't pile up to create heat and you'll have a weak fire. Easiest design would probably be a small door with a built in tray, either on the back of the stove or the side.
Thanks
@@steelforestweldingandforge a simple stovepipe rocked stove I describe in the comments produces lots of charcoal because the fire burns so fast it gets past unburned wood then there is no oxygen left and the unburnt wood turns into charcoal . If I want to I can extend my burn by a lot after all the wood is done by burning the charcoal witch will now burn because the charcoal now gets oxygen but if you want to save it you can.
@@steelforestweldingandforgeI tested this and it does not work well if you fully load the burn chamber lightly with air spaces in between I e natural round sticks I get the best burn but all rocket stoves are not the same so it may work great in yours.
i like your designs , being a aussie we like our back yard bbqs on larger plate / rack etc , soon i will be building one out of blocks , fire bricks and maybe some rocks ,thinking about also building a larger type rocket stove incorperated it it to use as a wok burner etc .. keep up the good work
I've seen people use cinderblocks as well. Might be a possible avenue to explore as well.
@@steelforestweldingandforge.... trouble is cinderblocks dont last long due to cracking which is why building the fire pit part of the bbq will line it with fire bricks..... but fire bricks really dont lend them self into a rocket stove design ... so thinking a metal r/stove incorperated into the block bbq even if i have to line it in with f/bricks to protect the blocks
@jeffpiper7430 good point, they will eventually decay.
what is your opinion about using outside cold air for carbeuration, or instead to “Pre-heat” somehow, the air that is going to be used for carbeuration.
In relation to a rocket stove? No opinion.
Have you thought of adding an ash catch that slides in-out from the front?
Yes I have. With the feedback I have had from clients, no one typically runs them long enough to produce large amounts of ash. Combustion is also almost 100% when the stove is running well. Most ash powder is so fine, it blows away.
With 2 metal tent pegs, inserted into the ground diagonally, you can fix the legs of the stove and it can no longer fall :) Easy. cheap and safe :)
The only thing I would change is make the pan or skillet base bigger
That criticism has come up before with clients and other people and it's a valuable criticism. From my experimentation and from customer feedback it's hasn't been a problem. That is, as long as appropriately sized pots and skillets are used. If someone were to try and use a 15in skillet for example, yes the stand-offs would be to small. But also, this size stove isn't designed for cooking utensils that large. So far there haven't been any customer complaints. Thanks for the feedback!
I think the legs would have low surface for soft ground. Like in a mash, tundera or winter setting. Maybe a standoff/spacer with disc/plate foot could work?
Did you check the VireStove from Israel? It seems sturdy and portable.
cool-weld a sleeve on one leg at bottom on the side to slide a piece of rod or rebar through-maybe a couple of feet-would be removable and very hard to turn over-works for me
Hello!
I've watched quite a few YT clips.
I think your Roket stove looks perfect!
Have a question: What size are the pipes?
Thank you. I use three inch square tubing.
I'm sure someone else probably already suggested this & I know it's probably not considered an optimal solution, but since the stove you addressed high c.o.g. concerns is already a fairly beefy size (i.e. not designed with portability as a defining trait), why not simply weld some scrap plate steel to the underside as a counterweight-ballast for enhanced stability? In my mind I see that as an opportunity for dual satisfaction by: 1.) Having forum brats shut yaps (which can obviously benefit from a "publicist's makeover" in its phrasing if one cares) while concurrently & most importantly 2.) Not needing to go back to the drawing board in order to meddle with what's obviously some stellar design & workmanship you're offering.
That would be a solution for flat solid ground. It will also unfortunately increase production time, shipping costs, and material costs. Best solution I have seen offered is simple tent stakes. And thank you for the kind words as well :)
Does yours make the gurgling rocket noise?
oh yes
Just an idea like that. You can add a water resorvoir around the chimney of your stove. So this way you can boil water.
I've actually seen people do this to make rocket stove water heaters.
So with your skills maybe you caan do something like that. It would be one more utse from the stoves you make. I would like to see the results.@@steelforestweldingandforge
The stability is fine on concrete, but check the stability while out in the back 40. Soft or uneven ground may give you different results with your stability test. Wider leg profile would be preferred.
This was a good, measured, response.
I always thought the looped legs were so you could stake it to the ground so a wagging tail or a kid's frisbee didnt topple it over....I expressly looked for a stove that made that possible with ease.....pretty sure preppers have stakes ....lots of em LOL.
I'm curious if you have any thoughts on that Giraffe Stove design ....looks like a lot of hinges..... sure takes up a lot of room. Pellet stoves are somthing I'm curious about as well.... the idea of a 5-7 hour hopper feed literally and figuratively gives me warm feelings. .....but the ash-out is my biggest concern .....a good ash removal system actually matters more to me as a sustainability and reliability engineer than heating 5min faster and 30deg hotter. But I'm old school, calories and hydration and layers keep me warm.....stoves are a luxury. I dont suppose people on the forum complained the draft height needed to be adjustable for different densities of air (both altitude and humidity) .....something you absolutely should NOT be nitpicking on other people's behalf. If folks want an aerospike stove that has quantum encryped WiFi, slices bread, and weighs less than a can of soup.....let them put in the R&D time and $$$$.😅
The giraffe style stove design is something I'd never seen before prior to you mentioning it. Typically, with rocket stoves, the larger the chimney or draft, the more powerful it is. So assuming this thing is fairly airtight, I'd imagine it would be quite powerful. I could see too how you could take advantage of putting pots further away from the heat source to have a slower and gentler heat. But I have no personal experience with this stove design. I am currently working on a pellet insert for my stoves. But i'm still prototyping. Thanks for watching.
I'm an amateur welder, it looked stable to me... Have you used any circular pipe ticket stoves? My first one was with 4.5" OD pipe....ugly as hell!
I'm not familiar with pipe ticket stoves.
Metal fabricator of 23 years and journeyman sheet metal worker in the union have industry here. I can say this about "draft": the smoother the tube is that the air moves through the higher velocity it can pick up. So the "L" shape main tube would draft alot better with a "turn vane" or something in the bottom. Regardless of the other aspects of the stove design, two 45* angles on the bottom elbow will draft better than 1, 90* corner I promise.
Yes right on you got it
How about trying a single round leg,diameter equal to distance between the legs of the model you knocked over,same material that the current legs are made from,welded with struts of the same to the base in at least 4 spots... this should prevent most tip-overs..???
Ok, took me a minute to understand what you were describing but I got it. One advantage to the leg style I have is they work fairly well on uneven ground and they are fairly quick and easy to fabricate.
I saw someone use pieces of the tube for the stove as legs. It may work if you used the part of the tube for the wood intake that you cut of and weld it to the bottom in 45 or more degrees to zhe outside. I dont know how well it works tho.
Just a wider leg base will help. You could also make fold the legs with a small nut and stop on the leg portion if the width is wider then you care for it to be
I think your stove looks good. I assume that the bottom tube is an air intake. I found that there will be a cold draft at that point, Consider putting the intake on the back so that your feet don't chill. My designs pull the air to the front and then back to the combustion chamber while pre warming it. If you try it let me know what you think.
Thank you, yes the bottom tube is air intake. I understand your concept of pre warming the air, I'm just Is having trouble visualizing your design. But you have peaked my interest. Any chance you have a picture or a video somewhere?
@@steelforestweldingandforge Sorry no I don't have a picture or video. Let me illustrate the concept. let's say you add another tube to the bottom making the necessary changes to allow the air to come in at the back bottom flow forward then up then back the existing tube to the combustion chamber. I am currently making a horizontal barrel stove with a door on the front. The combustion air comes in the back and flows thru tube steel under the fire (edit: located inside the barrel) to the front where it is released having been pre heated into the combustion chamber and flows back thru the fire and out the stove pipe / chimney. Then additionally I add an after burner chamber with its own pre heated combustion air via tube steel running thru the primary combustion chamber to achieve a "rocket" effect and "smoke free" low smoke fire.
A diagram!! This sounds great!
@@andrewengstrom1516
exhaust
[. ]
[. ]. fuel
[. ] /. /
[. ] /. /______
[.________. ]
air in ____________]
use angle iron or round legs that slide into a slot in each corner. they can be as long as your chimney and stored inside when not in use. they should have about a 45° (have to play around with that and see what's best) bend right where they attach to the stove to create a wider base. Adds almost no weight and will be way more stable and smaller footprint when stored.
I imagine 4 hoops on the legs that would allow two 24" hunks of rebar to be threaded through them from side to side. This would eliminate the rocking in your push test and would require REAL effort to tip it over. Rings made from pipe would work fine. The rebar could be pulled out and the result would be just as portable as your current design. Wood dowels could be used to save weight.
3 point legs will set pretty secure on more diverse terrain.
Yeah you raise a good point. The only fall back though is unless there's some kind of head on the bottom they will sink into loose soil or dirt.
So where can I get ordering and pricing info to buy you rocket stove
You can send me a message via Facebook messenger, Instagram, or Google maps.
I’d like to purchase one of your stoves!
You can me message me on Facebook messenger. Link to my FB page is in the video description.
Just curious, Is there a reason you use Square tubing instead of pipe?
Functionality there is no difference between square or round tubing. The big difference is square tubing is much easier to fabricate than round. Layout, marking, and squaring are much easier. The only advantage to round tubing I can think of is that it cuts much easier than square tubing.
I've been thinking of ways to build a pool/spa rocket stove heater, any suggestions on maximizing the heat transfer without most of it going up the stack?
Good question
My fist though would be some kind of coiled exhaust system that would wind around some kind of circulating water.
Can you build an indoor rocket stove?
Yes, there are several different ppl who design indoor stoves. This design is for outdoors only. What you are looking for most likely is called a rocket stove mass heater.
I would put additional bends in legs so as only the 4 corners touch. It would be more stable on un even surfaces.
just bought one 75 clams, looks like yours. just to experiment with
Nothing beats fried eggs and bacon early in the morning outside on one of these guys
Maybe if the legs had a tab with a hole in it, an aluminum trnt peg could be used to hold it down more securely? Alternatively some cleats on the feet would allow the stove to be pushed into the ground?
maybe add straight bars of Rebar like you used to bend it looks like to each leg ( ( adding 3 inches or so to each side ) and then even using say metal clothes hangers ( cut into "v" shape bends like a tent stake etc ) to bury in ground could make it near impossible to ever tip over :)
You can also modify your stoves to become a ooni type pizza oven surely..?
I've given it some serious thought before. It would require a lot of prototyping.
Dude, take the training wheels off the bike. It's time to grow up man.
Keep up the good work. Keep working hard. Love the design.
I seriously had to re read this 3 or 4 times before I got the joke. Thank you.
Hi, do you think we can use the microstove like a heater for my campervan?
There are rocket stoves that are specifically designed for heating. They are typically referred to as rocket stove mass heaters. This design that I have is solely for outside cooking purposes only. It is not safe for indoor use.
@@steelforestweldingandforge thank you
How does it work? Came here to see different ones work. Do you have a company you sell from?
As a matter of fact I do sell these stoves. You can follow the link in the description to my Facebook business page and send me a message if you're interested in purchasing one.
@@steelforestweldingandforge Oh! Ok sweet, thanks man :)
@@steelforestweldingandforge I just tried finding you on Etsy but don’t see ya
@@RockieRoadz I decided not to make an Etsy account. Between the fees for venmo and PayPal, the fees on Facebook Stores, and the fees for Etsy it just doesn't make that make it profitable. So instead I opted to sell directly to people.
@@steelforestweldingandforge Ah that makes sense. I’ll send you a message on FB. I know metal prices fluctuate so I don’t expect a long-term quote due to the current economy rushing into communsm
I need a rocket stove idea for using in my garage. I don't want to have to duct it through the wall or ceiling, though.
Ideally I want to be able to just quickly assemble stove pipe and disassemble as needed. The stove would sit just inside the overhead door while open of course. any ideas? thanks in advance
For heating or for cooking?
@@steelforestweldingandforge just for heating while I'm out there.
@@edgibson357 You'll want something called a rocket stove mass heater. But you have to run exhaust. Carbon monoxide poisoning is no joke
I like your design but it's hard to learn from praise. I would suggest anyone that thinks that stove will tip over to use tent stakes over the legs, then quit drinking they may be the ones tipping over. :)
Great video man! Do you have a website where you sell your stoves?
You can send me a message through my Facebook page which is linked in the description.
HTD should be 1:3 for average stability. I.E. 30” high stove would require a 10” wide base. Obviously this totally depends on your application and your intended level of risk mitigation.
Good to know. The reason these are designed the way they are is for transportation and easy fabrication. A larger base adds a lot more to shipping costs, and makes it more difficult to transport in the field.
I would love to make one but don't have welder.
You said you have to really give it a push for it to go over. What if you had two rods in upside down "V" free to move when tilted to prevent a total tip over of the stove itself. Just asking. Not an engineer.
I have seen people make these out of threaded piping. Maybe you can go that route. I do sell these if you are interested. I don't mind constructive criticism at all. If I'm invisioning your upside down v idea correctly, the main issue would be the legs sinking into soft earth. Thanks for watching.
For the Prepper community and you & me Just for your FYI> if I may suggest a small improvement in the building of the rocket stove FYI the top piece where the pans and utensils go on top. The area has is not wide enough, I cant tell how many time my nonstick pans have fallen off the stove. Most rocket stove users are having this problem. Now the solution is can you put a round bottom wok on it and cook Beef and Broccoli? If the top resting place for pans and be widened and it can cradle all woks and pans 23 inches or larger than you have a winner. I am sending you a link from UA-cam, i hope you will enjoy it. I hope you dont lose, any breakfast or lunch slipping off into the nest county. Best Regards
ua-cam.com/video/nBKGW3Fumhc/v-deo.html
First off, thx for watching. Second, I never turn down constructive criticism offered in a positive way, which you did. I have very recently altered the design to the grate of my stoves. A video of the new design is available in my profile. The reason I had for the older the design was for portability, manufacturing, and shipping costs. These stoves take more than 5 hours to make, so they are not very profitable from a welder/fabricator perspective. And the cost for these is highly competitive. Any additional fabrication would require me to increase product and shipping costs . If someone asked me to specifically make a ring shaped top I absolutely would. For an additional cost. You are correct about a ring on top for a wok. These, however, are designed to be used more with a cast iron skillet.
I'm getting ready to cut one out of an exhaust adapter, 4" to 2". More of a pack stove, but follows the same dynamics as a rocket stove
@@ronaldrvvanhook1437 Post a video and let us know how it turns out!
Watching the history Channel alone, I have seen many people lose their food in their campfires, so a stove tipping over is an issue. The stove you tipped over could be braced with large stones to prevent this. If you want to improve your rocket stove legs, could you punch and drill holes in the legs so that steaks can be driven through them into the ground so that it could take a big hit?
Well i'm a year late on this one.. but can they be made out of titanium to reduce weight ?
Absolutely, yes you could. However, titanium is VERY expensive. But if you're willing to put in the investment I could see it being a very good material.
I wish you could attach links I'd show you a good design it's like a flat top grill bbq rocketstove I think they call it the smart rocket stove
What is the cost for a deluxe model? How can I purchase one?
You can PM me directly via messenger through my FB buisness page. Follow the link in the description.
First time seeing this video. Great job ! How would one purchase one of these bad boys?
You can follow the link to my Facebook business page in the video description, and send me a direct message that I will personally answer.
I saw a comment about the fuel can possibly catch fire and the fire travels upwards. This seems like a danger that's inherent in the designs across the industry. I know that the mitigation (for pellets) is to have a catch that pellets fall through but it still seems like a reverse burn is a possibility.
This has honestly never been a problem for me. In fact, i've seen a lot of stoves that instead of a forty five degree feed angle, the heavy ninety degree feed angle. I would assume it's just that because the draft is so powerful. This reverse burning isn't just a normal phenomenon. But by looking at rocket stove designs I could see why some people would have that concern.
How about an inner tube with holes at the top for burning the super to heated wood gas
Sorry, I'm a little confused by what you're asking. but I'm also very intrigued could you explain a little further please.
Why not just Tent Stake it, when you can? Looks like you could also wedge some rocks in the leg holes as well. I like it.
can u further reduce the height of the legs , this will lower the CG and bring stability.
Yes you certainly could. However a rocket stoves power is directly related to the height if it's chimney. A short chimney generally means less power.
great job,
thank you
Hi, why don you cut the top edge of the chimney?
Do you mean why don't I cut slots into the chimney instead of adding standoffs?
I think you should design one for us preppers. Like make one thats pack friendly man. This thing would send ya right to the bottom of tbe lake its so big. I want to live to get to other side of lake to use your rocket stove to save my life and make some freeze dried stew. Thats just my opinion. Its usually pretty opiinionated so dont let me rain on your fire. I think it's hot beans.
This is actually something I have given some serious thought to. An ultra light collapsible stove. But I just don't have the equipment to build them atm. But yes, my stoves are designed for permanent and semi-permanent camping. I wouldn't recommend backpacking with one of these.
@@steelforestweldingandforge i think your a good person with a good product. Its good to see people wanting to win over there customers without bad mouthing everyone who has diffrent opinion then them.. i look forward to seeing your rocket on the go stove in future. Stay free, stay prepped and stay busy.
Thanks for the kind words!
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