Thanks again for documenting. I have one of these fine engineering marvels and the first thing I did was re cut the register. Dramatically improved run out. Fine work on everything. I have some tapered bearings for mine, but I think you have convinced me to go with the angular bearings.
G'day DM, your 100% correct on the register. I threw the motor on it the other night & did exactly that. It came out really good. Very happy with it now. Cheers Mate.
@@TheAussieShed Great series. I love your work. However, I'm not sure what you guys mean by "recutting the register". Did you record your work for that step? If not, please give some more details of what you did. Thanks.
@@VictorHarrys- Remove the chuck and make the slightest finishing cut. To the spindle face and register. Register being the center area. Where the chuck seat against. Notice: The intention is to straighten the spindle face as best as possible. While removing the least amount of material. That's it. I hope it's clear. Since English is not my native language. ;-)
@@crpth1 Thank you. Now I understand what he meant. Nobody’s language is perfect, so there’s no reason to apologize. Your punctuations need some correction, but your details are very well written.
Great series Trevor, with the angular contact bearings you should have explained which way they go in. As you said, they should be opposed, you need to point out hiw to identify which way. "THIN GOES IN" refers to the thickbess of the inner race.
Thanks for that bit of advice Jim, I just got my new bearings from the same source after watching this video for the 5th time and was wondering about that. Thanks again Trevor, for documenting your adventures. I watched the series when it came out and it has turned into an invaluable reference to come back to over and over again. I bought a used 14 inch bed to replace the 10 incher and am upgrading the shit out of everything. Oy, I bet your arms are still sore from all that hand lapping. I used Valve Grinding compound on my bed and cross slide when I lapped it in.. I went back and forth until my tongue was hanging out. It's nice and smooth now though.
I think you made the correct choice with the bearings. They can take higher rpm, they are sealed and they are direct fit vs the tapered rollers. The stiffness is not necessarily that important, even the shaft itself being that thin springs to a slight banana shape long before the preloaded bearings feel a thing. The machine is anyway only as rigid as the least rigid spot, which is far from the bearings in this case.
A really great Series, Thank You so much. I am afraid I don't have your patience and tenacity to go to those lengths for perfection, I have fixed many of the common problems and I get decent results from something that arrived as a piece of rubbish at £599. It is an 8 x 14 Chinese "Seconds" reject tarted up and sold on e-bay with no support etc. etc. But she makes the parts I want to make. A 4-jaw independent chuck replaced the 3-jaw rubbish it came with. Still struggling with cross-slide backlash and nuts that won't adjust decently. But we survive. :-D Thanks again for all the great videos mate!
Thank you for the video. Cld be a strange sequence but I have just finished CNCing this lathe. Concurrent with learning to turn a drawing into G-code Iwill follow your lead with the tuning/mods
I've been binge watching your series because i just got my mini lathe. Great videos! And thanks for the effort :D I just learned a lot. But i think i won't do everything you did, but i will try to get my lathe work more or less correctly.
Nice assembly vid. What you need next is a #3 morse taper test bar to check the head stock alignment to the ways. Mine needed shims to get alignment correct. Thanks
Did you ever video the results cutting material after the bearings were replaced? Mine without any pressure on the chuck looks great on the dial indicator, but when I apply pressure to the tooling you can see the chatter. Have any video showing the improvement cutting?
No David i dont at this stage. You sure its the bearings? I imagine you've had everything apart. Have you checked for end float? The bearings need a bit of preload. Cheers Mate.
@@TheAussieShed I did some cutting last night and the chatter is gone. Must have been the tool. Thanks. I will post some video next week when I return. Thank you
Thanks for making this series, looking forward to the next ep. Some thoughts on the headstock: Replace that plastic spacer with a metal one ASAP, it (and the wobbly nut) is carrying the preload now, not just locating the gears. The plastic will creep losing the preload which is necessary to keep the balls from skidding. If you're ambitious, and since you don't have gears in the headstock you could even put spacers between the bearings, equal length, for both inner and outer races.
Would it be worth while making a new main shaft to fit a bigger 3 jaw and larger hole through the centre? Something I’ve been thinking about doing with my metal master
Great video series. Without a hi/low it looks like actual seals could have replaced the plastic shields and allowed a taper bearing install. My King Canada lathe has the Hi/Low so its not an option and I'm starting the install of the same annular bearings.
Greetings from Canada - I'm just trying to source the main shaft bearings and my local supplier says there is no such thing as a 30X62X16 double sealed Tapered Bearing. I checked our the eBay link provided and it shows what you used (the bearing with the blue seals) Can you confirm to me that the bearing you got was the one in the eBay link. Thanks for your assist. All you other techniques have worked like a hot-damn! I expecting the lathe to perform much better than the OEM delivered product - in fact, yours had more severe issues than mine did but I did have all the same issues, just a few less severs.
G'day Mate, firstly, thanks for watching my videos, yes, i just checked the link & it is the correct Bearing. Give your supplier the Bearing Part number which is 7206B2RS, he should be able to find them from that. It is the same part number across all Bearing Manufacturers. If that doesn't work I'd go elsewhere. Cheers Mate.
Hi Barney, yes it does "look" cross threaded. The threads on the lock nut however show no signs of that, there is a single non damaged thread in it, that i would assume was done with the nut sitting out of wack when cutting the thread. But yes you are totally correct, you can see it in the disassembly. Cheers Mate.
Where can you find bearings if you want to buy them for your lathe? I have a china lathe a bit different than this. Can I just measure the axle and the races and order something? Where?
Don't know why, but UA-cam "unsubscribed" me from your channel! Removed all of my videos because of some of the changes UA-cam has been making, but did upload some new ones and a revised old one. Don't trust UA-cam anymore. As for your channel, can't thank you enough for recording, editing and sharing the knowledge. The lathe series is my favorite. Cheers m8
Man that Sucks, youtube has gone to crap under its current ceo. I've heard a lot of very similar stories from folks. Thanks for sticking with my channel, i really appreciate it. I have a pretty comprehensive shop press series coming up in the next few weeks that may interest you. Stay Strong Mate, Cheers.
Not sure if Im a glutton for punishment but I am enjoying this series. If only to see what issues you find and how you fix them. I was thinking about a chinese lathe but after watching you and quite a few others with these on youtube Im starting to feel as I did when I found out all the side effects of the cancer treatment I had (run screaming out the door rapidly). Perhaps in my case spend a few more shekels for a better quality unit. That said you have some great workarounds and fixs for the many short commings these units have. Any way you are hilarious and informative possibly a down under version of AVE. And with that its your shout. Cheers Bloody hell Im finally first...
G'day Mate, thanks for the kind words. Even though it kinda sucks doing this, its very satisfying in the end. I had it running the other night & its coming up good, like, really really good. if you can afford a better unit from the get go, then sure, definitely a good choice. Cheers Mate.
Your choice of bearing geometry is right. However, I would go with a nicer brand though. My favorite brand is Nachi but for this case, I've purchased NTNs which provide precision tolerances close to SKF high precision series at a budget price. Those Japanese are just like that you know... I do not think that your bearings will fail soon though.
Hi Aussie, remember always to "preload" the dial gauge on the surface, so you are sure it doesn't read 0 for some measurements.. just a tip, thinking you already doing it
Looks like that second lock nut you took off the back of the spindle was extremely out of square on the thread. (I see you pointed it out on the way back on ) :) I have noticed your chuck backing plate Is part of the spindle. What kind of weird arsed design is that? How can you mount a 4 jaw chuck for example unless it is exactly the same size on the register? Maybe you bore the back of the chuck out or make a backing plate for the backing plate. Interesting video, thanks for making it 🤠
It's actually a very clever and cost effective design. All chucks and face plates register straight into the spindle and are bolted on. You never have to worry about the chuck coming loose and it is a pretty idiot proof design. I get no readable run out on my 3 jaw, 4 jaw and ER32 collet chucks on my mini lathe. This guy seems to have received a particularly bad example. In all honesty, despite all the frustrating niggles, they are quite good value for money especially when you take into account the cost of extra accessories and tooling. With a bit of patience and skill, they are capable of some outstanding work.
Nice work. I have 1 mini lathe also and following your instruction to improve it. Could you advise me about bearing number? Because I didn't see it clearly. Many thanks!
Hi David, once you get the old ones off, place the shaft in the freezer overnight, it will make it a bit easier to get the new bearings on. Carefully warming the new bearings before installation will also help. You may want to measure your shaft, I have heard there is some variation in them, making the bearings almost slide on on some & be overly tight on others. If your shaft is slightly oversize or out of round doing it by hand may be a struggle. Cheers Mate.
Pissed myself laughing when i saw your "wonky" locknut Trev, i thought you had knocked off mine till i realised you only had one buggered unit...........I got two. Great vids mate, keep em coming.
Watching your series (great information). Got to ask (given the level of quality of casting and machining from the factory -) are you sure that the center bore of your lathe is parallel to the bed (ie , a dip or buildup of a 1/10000 on a corner[s] of the bottom of your headstock would easily account for run out over the length given after the bearing swap)? Should add I've already watched the whole series (just re-re-rewatching interesting ones)!
G'day Mate, you must be Psychic, currently working on exactly that. From the factory, the Headstock Alignment leaves a lot to be desired. Cuts a nice 1/2mm taper over 150mm. Cheers Spud
@@TheAussieShed Psychic or psycho , something like that (the latter according to my Missus) ! 😁 Looking forward to seeing your result (think that you shall end up with a Sieg-quality lathe for 1/10th of the price upfront , but sweat equity making up the difference)!
Hi, I watched all the chineeese mini lathe video and you are brillant! Much more than me lol. I don’t know how to level the headstock ( same bad level at the back, exactly like yours) . Can you tell me How to fix this problem? Thanks in advance, Louise.
My mind was already blown by the paint on the spindle... But holy crap, that crooked-ass locknut! 😂 Man, quality sure has gone downhill since I got my 7x10 back in 2010. It even had properly finished parts, like it was made by people who gave a damn! (Imagine that!)
My "lovely" lathe with control panel and rpm panel literally hand cut with a hacksaw! I'm not kidding! Loose headstock (the bolts were too long) and a whole lot more shocking details. Would make anyone (me inclusive) pull hairs from the first look. Bearings damaged right out of the box! Because some "animal" hammered the spindle face until it got deformed!! Which produced a chuck runout of more than 1mm. Not microns, not tenths on mm, but > than 1mm. Might come as a grotesque surprise, but there's more to the story. The exact same blue paint all over. Become a tiny inconspicuous detail... ;-)
My question to you and everyone else is just exactly how do you conduct a pre-load. There is no spec’s on these Chinese mini lathes. So theres no torque specs.
paint n smash on parts ,,,ancestry suggests this started when the makers started not to give two shits ,exact date is locked in a safe in the ccp main headquarters ,i have a new lathe like yours still boxed ....glad i bought all the accessories the basic is not good ,,,bit miffed the cam lock was not on the tailstock the pic said it was there,ebay meh....
I thank the universe for Aussies like you. Just took apart my headstock. Holy crap. It had enough metal debris to build a new lathe.
Cheers Mate.
You've given me inspiration to upgrade my lathe. Good on ya mate!
My Pleasure Brian. Cheers.
Thanks again for documenting. I have one of these fine engineering marvels and the first thing I did was re cut the register. Dramatically improved run out. Fine work on everything. I have some tapered bearings for mine, but I think you have convinced me to go with the angular bearings.
G'day DM, your 100% correct on the register. I threw the motor on it the other night & did exactly that. It came out really good. Very happy with it now. Cheers Mate.
@@TheAussieShed Great series. I love your work. However, I'm not sure what you guys mean by "recutting the register". Did you record your work for that step? If not, please give some more details of what you did. Thanks.
@@VictorHarrys- Remove the chuck and make the slightest finishing cut. To the spindle face and register. Register being the center area. Where the chuck seat against.
Notice: The intention is to straighten the spindle face as best as possible. While removing the least amount of material.
That's it. I hope it's clear. Since English is not my native language. ;-)
@@crpth1 Thank you. Now I understand what he meant. Nobody’s language is perfect, so there’s no reason to apologize. Your punctuations need some correction, but your details are very well written.
"De-burred with a brick." Love it :)
18:00 このロックナットの歪みは、小型旋盤の標準仕様のようですね
This locknut distortion seems to be the standard specification for small lathes.
Great series Trevor, with the angular contact bearings you should have explained which way they go in. As you said, they should be opposed, you need to point out hiw to identify which way. "THIN GOES IN" refers to the thickbess of the inner race.
Thanks for that bit of advice Jim, I just got my new bearings from the same source after watching this video for the 5th time and was wondering about that.
Thanks again Trevor, for documenting your adventures. I watched the series when it came out and it has turned into an invaluable reference to come back to over and over again.
I bought a used 14 inch bed to replace the 10 incher and am upgrading the shit out of everything. Oy, I bet your arms are still sore from all that hand lapping.
I used Valve Grinding compound on my bed and cross slide when I lapped it in.. I went back and forth until my tongue was hanging out. It's nice and smooth now though.
That lock nut is something else....... Made for a pre-bent shaft maybe? Thanks for a great video.
Thank you for this series, a ton of ideas for fixing the Chinese Mini Lathe.
My Pleasure John, Cheers Mate.
I think you made the correct choice with the bearings. They can take higher rpm, they are sealed and they are direct fit vs the tapered rollers. The stiffness is not necessarily that important, even the shaft itself being that thin springs to a slight banana shape long before the preloaded bearings feel a thing. The machine is anyway only as rigid as the least rigid spot, which is far from the bearings in this case.
I agree on the choice of bearings as well and will be using the same ones on my mini lathe.
A really great Series, Thank You so much. I am afraid I don't have your patience and tenacity to go to those lengths for perfection, I have fixed many of the common problems and I get decent results from something that arrived as a piece of rubbish at £599. It is an 8 x 14 Chinese "Seconds" reject tarted up and sold on e-bay with no support etc. etc. But she makes the parts I want to make. A 4-jaw independent chuck replaced the 3-jaw rubbish it came with. Still struggling with cross-slide backlash and nuts that won't adjust decently. But we survive. :-D Thanks again for all the great videos mate!
Cheers Danny, thanks for watching Mate.
I have been watching your series. Looks like they picked their best quality lathe to send to you. 🤣
Story of my Life Mate. You should see my 2 Ex Wives.
Thank you for the video. Cld be a strange sequence but I have just finished CNCing this lathe. Concurrent with learning to turn a drawing into G-code Iwill follow your lead with the tuning/mods
any practical ideas on sealing the head stock for oil lubrication?
I've been binge watching your series because i just got my mini lathe. Great videos! And thanks for the effort :D I just learned a lot. But i think i won't do everything you did, but i will try to get my lathe work more or less correctly.
Nice assembly vid.
What you need next is a #3 morse taper test bar to check the head stock alignment to the ways.
Mine needed shims to get alignment correct.
Thanks
Absolutely Dennis, sounds like a plan. Cheers.
Did you ever video the results cutting material after the bearings were replaced? Mine without any pressure on the chuck looks great on the dial indicator, but when I apply pressure to the tooling you can see the chatter. Have any video showing the improvement cutting?
No David i dont at this stage. You sure its the bearings? I imagine you've had everything apart. Have you checked for end float? The bearings need a bit of preload. Cheers Mate.
@@TheAussieShed I did some cutting last night and the chatter is gone. Must have been the tool. Thanks. I will post some video next week when I return. Thank you
Thanks for making this series, looking forward to the next ep. Some thoughts on the headstock: Replace that plastic spacer with a metal one ASAP, it (and the wobbly nut) is carrying the preload now, not just locating the gears. The plastic will creep losing the preload which is necessary to keep the balls from skidding.
If you're ambitious, and since you don't have gears in the headstock you could even put spacers between the bearings, equal length, for both inner and outer races.
Thanks Shane.
Hi nice to see how you rebuild a precision head stock spindle. Just here to see your approach. Lance & Patrick.
Thanks Guys.
Would it be worth while making a new main shaft to fit a bigger 3 jaw and larger hole through the centre? Something I’ve been thinking about doing with my metal master
What is the spec’s on the replacement bearing you used?
Great video series.
Without a hi/low it looks like actual seals could have replaced the plastic shields and allowed a taper bearing install.
My King Canada lathe has the Hi/Low so its not an option and I'm starting the install of the same annular bearings.
Hi Rupert, you are correct, from memory there was a seal I found that was a perfect fit too. Definitely a good option.
Cheers mate.
hope you can tell me what belt that is and where u got it
Nice work
Hi Dedicated watcher,keep em coming.
Thanks Allen.
"Deburred with a brick" lol. Great progress Trevor, keep it up!
Trevor does have a wicked sense of humor , lol . 👍
Greetings from Canada - I'm just trying to source the main shaft bearings and my local supplier says there is no such thing as a 30X62X16 double sealed Tapered Bearing. I checked our the eBay link provided and it shows what you used (the bearing with the blue seals) Can you confirm to me that the bearing you got was the one in the eBay link. Thanks for your assist. All you other techniques have worked like a hot-damn! I expecting the lathe to perform much better than the OEM delivered product - in fact, yours had more severe issues than mine did but I did have all the same issues, just a few less severs.
G'day Mate, firstly, thanks for watching my videos, yes, i just checked the link & it is the correct Bearing. Give your supplier the Bearing Part number which is 7206B2RS, he should be able to find them from that. It is the same part number across all Bearing Manufacturers. If that doesn't work I'd go elsewhere. Cheers Mate.
@@TheAussieShed Many thanks!
Actually, the run-out you measured is very good for a three-jaw chuck, especially a Chinese one. Don't mess with it...
How are the AC bearings holding up since you installed them?
G'day Mate, no problems so far, its had a ton of use over the years too. Cheers.
If you watch the removal of the second lock nut of the spindle it was cross threaded that’s why the threads were bugged
Hi Barney, yes it does "look" cross threaded. The threads on the lock nut however show no signs of that, there is a single non damaged thread in it, that i would assume was done with the nut sitting out of wack when cutting the thread. But yes you are totally correct, you can see it in the disassembly.
Cheers Mate.
I actually started laughing when that second lock nut went on.
10:31 I had to close my eyes. can't watch this :/
My god that was bad
17:55
Where can you find bearings if you want to buy them for your lathe? I have a china lathe a bit different than this. Can I just measure the axle and the races and order something? Where?
all on ebay
Don't know why, but UA-cam "unsubscribed" me from your channel! Removed all of my videos because of some of the changes UA-cam has been making, but did upload some new ones and a revised old one. Don't trust UA-cam anymore. As for your channel, can't thank you enough for recording, editing and sharing the knowledge. The lathe series is my favorite.
Cheers m8
Man that Sucks, youtube has gone to crap under its current ceo. I've heard a lot of very similar stories from folks. Thanks for sticking with my channel, i really appreciate it. I have a pretty comprehensive shop press series coming up in the next few weeks that may interest you. Stay Strong Mate, Cheers.
@@TheAussieShed Look forward to the new series. Cheers brother
Congratulations you did an excellent job.
I have a question: Before painting the headstock did you remove the old color first?
Did you apply primer?
G'day Mate, rubbed it down, primed & then Painted it. Cheers.
Since all the improvements, how well is the lathe working?
Cheers
Mate she's a little ripper. You can see it in use in many of my Vids. I'm super happy with it to say the least.
Cheers Mate.
Awesome! I'll take a look at those other videos.
Not sure if Im a glutton for punishment but I am enjoying this series.
If only to see what issues you find and how you fix them.
I was thinking about a chinese lathe but after watching you and quite a few others with these on youtube Im starting to feel as I did when I found out all the side effects of the cancer treatment I had (run screaming out the door rapidly). Perhaps in my case spend a few more shekels for a better quality unit. That said you have some great workarounds and fixs for the many short commings these units have.
Any way you are hilarious and informative possibly a down under version of AVE.
And with that its your shout.
Cheers
Bloody hell Im finally first...
dhc4ever . .... I fully agree .......Good painstakingly done upgrades....... Thanks for sharing.
G'day Mate, thanks for the kind words. Even though it kinda sucks doing this, its very satisfying in the end. I had it running the other night & its coming up good, like, really really good. if you can afford a better unit from the get go, then sure, definitely a good choice.
Cheers Mate.
Any improvement in rigidity with the new bearings?
Your choice of bearing geometry is right. However, I would go with a nicer brand though. My favorite brand is Nachi but for this case, I've purchased NTNs which provide precision tolerances close to SKF high precision series at a budget price. Those Japanese are just like that you know... I do not think that your bearings will fail soon though.
Thanks for the tips! Cheers.
you made my day.
Hi Aussie, remember always to "preload" the dial gauge on the surface, so you are sure it doesn't read 0 for some measurements.. just a tip, thinking you already doing it
much easier bearing install, put shaft in the freezer for an hour, doing field service we use dry ice
Looks like that second lock nut you took off the back of the spindle was extremely out of square on the thread.
(I see you pointed it out on the way back on ) :)
I have noticed your chuck backing plate Is part of the spindle. What kind of weird arsed design is that?
How can you mount a 4 jaw chuck for example unless it is exactly the same size on the register?
Maybe you bore the back of the chuck out or make a backing plate for the backing plate.
Interesting video, thanks for making it 🤠
It's actually a very clever and cost effective design. All chucks and face plates register straight into the spindle and are bolted on. You never have to worry about the chuck coming loose and it is a pretty idiot proof design.
I get no readable run out on my 3 jaw, 4 jaw and ER32 collet chucks on my mini lathe. This guy seems to have received a particularly bad example.
In all honesty, despite all the frustrating niggles, they are quite good value for money especially when you take into account the cost of extra accessories and tooling. With a bit of patience and skill, they are capable of some outstanding work.
Nice work. I have 1 mini lathe also and following your instruction to improve it. Could you advise me about bearing number? Because I didn't see it clearly. Many thanks!
Angular Contact Bearing Ebay Link. ebay.to/2Xkyeoq
G'day Mate , the Bearing number is 7206B2rs there is an ebay link to one in the description. Cheers.
What did you use to put the bearings? Press? Hammer?
G'day David, Yes I used my small workshop Press. They went on quite easily. Cheers.
@@TheAussieShed Thank you for your quick reply. Think I can bang the out and in with a hammer and blocks of wood and schedule 40 PVC pipe?
them out
Hi David, once you get the old ones off, place the shaft in the freezer overnight, it will make it a bit easier to get the new bearings on.
Carefully warming the new bearings before installation will also help. You may want to measure your shaft, I have heard there is some variation in them, making the bearings almost slide on on some & be overly tight on others. If your shaft is slightly oversize or out of round doing it by hand may be a struggle. Cheers Mate.
@@TheAussieShed Got it. Stay safe.
Great video! I found this super useful to guide me in making my own lathe. (I cant do worse than the chinese)
Aint that the Truth Paul. Cheers Mate.
Nice job
🤜🤛
Watching in Alabama
Cheers Anthony.
It would be harder to machine that wonky locknut than machine a true one LOL
A dial test indicator is better than a drop gauge.
"They just can't help themselves. Everything is just shit" - great summary of the SIEG mini-lathe. I'm also the sort of idiot to try and fix it up. :)
You Crazy SOB, you must really Hate yourself Lol, Cheers Mate.
Dude kick ass accent. Ausi I gather. Good vid bro.
Cheers Mate.😄
Pissed myself laughing when i saw your "wonky" locknut Trev, i thought you had knocked off mine till
i realised you only had one buggered unit...........I got two. Great vids mate, keep em coming.
Cheers Peter.
Watching your series (great information).
Got to ask (given the level of quality of casting and machining from the factory -) are you sure that the center bore of your lathe is parallel to the bed (ie , a dip or buildup of a 1/10000 on a corner[s] of the bottom of your headstock would easily account for run out over the length given after the bearing swap)? Should add I've already watched the whole series (just re-re-rewatching interesting ones)!
G'day Mate, you must be Psychic, currently working on exactly that. From the factory, the Headstock Alignment leaves a lot to be desired. Cuts a nice 1/2mm taper over 150mm. Cheers Spud
@@TheAussieShed Psychic or psycho , something like that (the latter according to my Missus) ! 😁
Looking forward to seeing your result (think that you shall end up with a Sieg-quality lathe for 1/10th of the price upfront , but sweat equity making up the difference)!
Enjoying your videos was wondering if your head was out of alignment? Mine giving me a taper when tunring
Sounds like a pun. 😀
Is that blue loctite or some type of anti-seize? OMG that's paint...
Isn't that just the bore rather than taper?
18:20 It's a feature!
Do you think that one day we'll say "aah, they don't make them like that anymore!" that's some real effing craftsmanship eh?
Jeeze I hope not, imagine that world. Cheers Mate.
Hi, I watched all the chineeese mini lathe video and you are brillant! Much more than me lol.
I don’t know how to level the headstock ( same bad level at the back, exactly like yours) . Can you tell me How to fix this problem? Thanks in advance, Louise.
G'day Lou, I just used Shim stock. It seemed to work okay.
@@TheAussieShed thanks a lot Sir, please continue to share your knowledge, it’s helpful for a lot of people like me 😉
Better with the motor on😀😀😀
Mate! Are you sure that that bearing nut is not used as a cam for the oil pump?lol
There's Nothing worse, or more painful than Wonky Nuts. Cheers mate.
You could replace the black ring that is bent !!!
My mind was already blown by the paint on the spindle... But holy crap, that crooked-ass locknut! 😂 Man, quality sure has gone downhill since I got my 7x10 back in 2010. It even had properly finished parts, like it was made by people who gave a damn! (Imagine that!)
My "lovely" lathe with control panel and rpm panel literally hand cut with a hacksaw! I'm not kidding!
Loose headstock (the bolts were too long) and a whole lot more shocking details.
Would make anyone (me inclusive) pull hairs from the first look.
Bearings damaged right out of the box! Because some "animal" hammered the spindle face until it got deformed!! Which produced a chuck runout of more than 1mm. Not microns, not tenths on mm, but > than 1mm.
Might come as a grotesque surprise, but there's more to the story. The exact same blue paint all over. Become a tiny inconspicuous detail... ;-)
My question to you and everyone else is just exactly how do you conduct a pre-load. There is no spec’s on these Chinese mini lathes. So theres no torque specs.
I don't buy nails from the Chinese anymore
I think they painted the shaft to bring the tolerances back to spec. because their lousy machinists took too much off. :)
I Reckon you've Nailed it. Cheers.
You are talking in German.... Scheisse , dis ding..... :-)
paint n smash on parts ,,,ancestry suggests this started when the makers started not to give two shits ,exact date is locked in a safe in the ccp main headquarters ,i have a new lathe like yours still boxed ....glad i bought all the accessories the basic is not good ,,,bit miffed the cam lock was not on the tailstock the pic said it was there,ebay meh....
Yep, par for the course Mate. Sounds like your expectations are in the right place. I'm sure its some kind of test for us. Cheers.
Sorry but the lathe you got was worse case junk. But at least you know how to fix it glad mine was not this bad. You can get better chucks from China.
Please use microns also........there are many hundred thousands of them on everywhere.....even in inches....?! Lol !
Good onya Navin, love your work. Cheers mate.