Thanks, you saved me at least $200 USD in parts and $300 in labor. Pretty easy job. The axle bolt is torque to yield at 140 N-m +/-90°, and is supposed to be replaced each time. At$13 USD each, better to do it right. The 17mm allen socket for axle bolt and a Torx bit (T40?) for the rod end are the only unusual tools. Hockey pucks and a 30*55*26mm block work for the jacking pads, or aluminum jack pucks are cheap online.
This is also called the tension strut, seems to be a common part among bmw f30 cars that needs to be replaced first. Ordering the lemforder from FCP like the video shows. Do you notice any handling improvement after replacing both tension struts?
Sebastian Kociolek would rather not replace them with OEM as they’re so prone to leakage. Im gonna get poly bushings which should also improve handling on top of longevity
I believe this part is also called a "Tension Strut" or a "Thrust Rod". I'll bet you will get many more views if you add those terms to the title of this video. Thanks for showing us how it's done! One question...Does the spindle definitely need to be separated from the axle to remove the arm on the ball-joint end?
I sure hope you had a "jack stand" beneath the vehicle and weren't relying solely on the floor jack to elevate the vehicle when you were under it. I didn't see a jack stand anywhere in the video
Great video! I did what you did... also replaced brake pads and rotors... ow I get a clunky sound in the right front wheel. Any suggestions where to start diagnosing?
FYI. I measured the ride height at around 15.5 inches... and when I jacked the wheel up to tighten, I got to approximately 16 inches... I hope that wasn’t the issue.
I had a clunky sound in the front wheel before. It was constant but more noticeable at lower speeds. It disappeared every time I pressed the brake pedal. I took my brakes apart and what I found was broken clip on the brake pad holding pad to the caliper. The inside one (the one with 3 clips-one was broken). 16 vs 15.5 in is good enough. Lol
My car was wandering at high speeds. There are different symptoms. Noise, wandering, pulling to one side etc. I believe that you’ll wear your tire unevenly too.
Great job, good diy video, thanks for taking your time recording and uploading.
Thanks, you saved me at least $200 USD in parts and $300 in labor. Pretty easy job. The axle bolt is torque to yield at 140 N-m +/-90°, and is supposed to be replaced each time. At$13 USD each, better to do it right. The 17mm allen socket for axle bolt and a Torx bit (T40?) for the rod end are the only unusual tools. Hockey pucks and a 30*55*26mm block work for the jacking pads, or aluminum jack pucks are cheap online.
This is also called the tension strut, seems to be a common part among bmw f30 cars that needs to be replaced first. Ordering the lemforder from FCP like the video shows. Do you notice any handling improvement after replacing both tension struts?
Marin Tudor. Huge improvement after replacing them.
Sebastian Kociolek would rather not replace them with OEM as they’re so prone to leakage. Im gonna get poly bushings which should also improve handling on top of longevity
Hi do you have the torque figures for the wheel hub and links etc please
I believe this part is also called a "Tension Strut" or a "Thrust Rod". I'll bet you will get many more views if you add those terms to the title of this video. Thanks for showing us how it's done!
One question...Does the spindle definitely need to be separated from the axle to remove the arm on the ball-joint end?
JCubed123. Thank you. I believe that spindle needs to get removed because otherwise there is not enough room to get the control arm removed.
I sure hope you had a "jack stand" beneath the vehicle and weren't relying solely on the floor jack to elevate the vehicle when you were under it. I didn't see a jack stand anywhere in the video
Great video! I did what you did... also replaced brake pads and rotors... ow I get a clunky sound in the right front wheel. Any suggestions where to start diagnosing?
FYI. I measured the ride height at around 15.5 inches... and when I jacked the wheel up to tighten, I got to approximately 16 inches... I hope that wasn’t the issue.
I had a clunky sound in the front wheel before. It was constant but more noticeable at lower speeds. It disappeared every time I pressed the brake pedal. I took my brakes apart and what I found was broken clip on the brake pad holding pad to the caliper. The inside one (the one with 3 clips-one was broken). 16 vs 15.5 in is good enough. Lol
May need to mention the axel nut (17mm Allan key) is only for x-drive (4wheel drive)
Ståle Breivik. Thank you. Yes. My car is an xdrive one. I didn’t know that rear wheel drive one had different set up.
Very informative
Any chance anyone knows the torque specs for the axle nut and bushing thru bolt? Or are we just going with German spec (guut-an-tite) :D
Awesome vid
Did your steering ever feel side to side wobble during highway speeds?
Only over the bumps at high speed. Otherwise it felt pretty tight. But after I changed them I could feel the difference.
Sebastian what tools did you use for he job?!
Just regular air ratchets and manual ratchets and some wrenches. Nothing special
@@sebastiankociolek1043 how old was the car when you did the job?
Callum Carr The car was about 6 years old with 120k miles. Mostly highway miles.
what happens if i delay this replacement?
My car was wandering at high speeds. There are different symptoms. Noise, wandering, pulling to one side etc. I believe that you’ll wear your tire unevenly too.
@@sebastiankociolek1043 I see. Do you think a mechanic could do this or would I have to go to the bmw service?
It’s a very easy job so I’m assuming that a good mechanic can do it. Just make sure you do the allignment after that.
@@sebastiankociolek1043 hmm alright that sounds good. Thanks man 🙏