I like this converion from "I'll paint whole guitar to show you how it works" To "I got these cool products to show you so I got some test pieces and do few things in one video" Now you can do these episodes quicker and maybe tackle some long term projects in between This product is so effective. I need to start taking this factor into consideration while choosing stuff.
I just used it on walnut with some sapwood in it and it's amazing! The amount of gloss you get depends on how far you take your sanding. Less shine like a matt maybe stop at say 320. I took mine up to 1,000 grit and its like a semi gloss
Just finished my bass build. Used stain and Tung Oil. Turned out (oot) nice but the basswood is not great. Hope to do an ash body guitar in the near future.
@@BradAngove Sounds like a winning idea for a video! Those of us that don’t have spray rigs appreciate all the help we can get with durable finishes that can be applied without one! By the way, I was subbed here before you and Texas Toast became buddies, but the cross-channel comradery and jokes are always a laugh!
@@BradAngove yep, those ones! I saw one of their shorts in here, I fell in love with the called Port Wine. If one of those stains work the same on a guitar kit, I'm going for it!
Neat stuff. I like this kind of cover. Did we see you using a shoe polish at one time ? I’ve seen someone and for some reason it’s you that comes to mind. I do remember it working ok. Seems it got down in the grains and such (antique like, if remembering right). Thanks man. Yeah, I like this.
Cost is next to nothing when you get a jar for £45 UK and I'd say you could finish 30 full guitar body's and necks easy! Compared to my favourite tru oil that's around £10 a pot and that will finish 1-2 guitar body's to a high gloss. So it's definitely a good deal! And Brad does it have a shelf life once opened? Would look great on a nice ash body.
This is the comment I was looking for. The fact that you quoted the UK price was a bonus. Your shelf life question was the other thing I wanted to know. As I'm averaging about one guitar every three years, that would definitely be an issue. Ta.
I’m not aware of any shelf life issues. I would think not because you can reapply over itself indefinitely. Might need a touch of their solvent to reconstitute it at some point if there’s an issue would be my best guess.
If you watch the Odie’s Oil channel’s videos, James (the creator) says that the Odie’s Oil if left alone fir too long will develop a skin. Pull that out and do not re-mix it back in. They sell Bloxygen also (Argon canister) to displace the regular air in the container once you finish using the oil.
I really enjoyed that and the finish looks good. Don't store that near your kitchen as it looks like the honey I buy in the farmers market. 🤣🤣. I agree perfect for a neck as I hate sticky gloss necks. Cant wait to see the other Odies stuff Demos. Might be worth comparing with Crimsons if you still have some of that left.
I got this for my solo build kit. Got the coat on the back and it looks great! Waiting a bit to get the top done. Was curious. I watched someone use it on their fretboard. Would you recommend that? I’m not sure what to do for the fretboard. It’s a rosewood, but it almost looks grey. Curious as to what you’d think about the odies on the fretboard !
@@daniellarson3068 I was thinking about that you could theoretically make a brighter burst guitar and over time it'll slowly get darker or just do a natural clear wax in the middle with the darkening wax and it'll be a slight vague burst at first but overtime the outside will get darker and make the burst more pronounced pretty interesting concept
The problem we have with Odies oil is on the dining table, which is walnut. The oil turns white when you place a plate or serving dish on the table, even with a 1/2" thick hot pad even your dinner plate turns the oil white and it leaves big white rings on the table. Pretty much tried everything to get it off but looks like we'll have to re=sand the table. We wont use it again once we do refinish it.
Hi Brad. I'm learning alot from your videos. What applicator are you using? Does it change the color of the wood very-much? (the dark, looks lighter vs. the original?) How is the Feel of the finish as opposed to Tru oil (for my guitar neck). I subscribed. Great content explained & presented on your channel.
I’m using a very fine abrasive pad. The impact on wood color depends on the wood. It’s generally a mild darkening on woods like mahogany. Almost no change on something like a rock maple. The feel is similar to a tru-oil or polymerized tung oil.
@@BradAngove Thank You my friend. Appreciate your input. I turned my Dad (and a buddy) "On" to your channel. They also Love this-stuff. oNe LovE from NYC
Hey Brad thank you so much for your instructional video on Odie's oil ! After having gone through the process of applying Odie's oil, buffing it off ,how long would you wait before applying the odie's butter?
Maybe if you throw that under a UV light you can place something over half of it to block the UV so we can see how much the other half darkens up...???
got a question for you, Brad, this is starting to make me crazy...I just picked up a Tele kit, mahogany body/maple neck, both already sprayed with a poly sealer...I've been going back and forth on what finish to use (spray can solid colour, modified Tung oil, Odie's Super Duper Oil) but I'm seeing quite a few posts online saying go with the paint, the reason being you can never be sure of getting off ALL of the poly sealer on the body and neck. I know you've worked with a lot of kits before and I'm generally happy with the kit but I want to know what you think...should I be confident I can sand off the sealer and use probably the Odie's (either Oil or Super Duper Oil) or should I just go with a spray can colour?
If you want to go with the Odies don’t be afraid of the sealer. It’s not like normal oils. Even if you end up with some sealer on there that is sanded smooth but not off, the Odies will be fine. As long as you’re not adding a pigment and trying to get that to go into the grain.
WTF? Brad........don't forget what you already know, just bc you're using something new. Why would you put the JAR out in the sun? You KNOW that you need to put the treated WOOD in the sun ( bright, warm sun, coming through a big bay window). Just tryin' to help.
I've used odies for a few years now, and the key is also in the sanding. The higher the grit the closer to gloss sheen you'll have as well.
Is there a recommended grit for just a good natural look with low sheen?
@@FastRedPonyCar 400 grit is a fairly low sheen once everything has cured.
I love using this on necks! I also used it in a burned wood bass I did. Great stuff and it goes a long way.
Cheers Kyle; I can’t wait to try it out on a neck.
I like this converion from "I'll paint whole guitar to show you how it works"
To
"I got these cool products to show you so I got some test pieces and do few things in one video"
Now you can do these episodes quicker and maybe tackle some long term projects in between
This product is so effective. I need to start taking this factor into consideration while choosing stuff.
This does seem a little more efficient doesn’t it? Haha
Also put a little on the scrub pad first to get it soaked in a little first, work that out then use a dab of it here and there
I use it to pop corn when I'm not using it as a finish. Looks like good stuff. Great lernin' video. 📹
I get that preserves it pretty well throughout your system haha.
I just used it on walnut with some sapwood in it and it's amazing!
The amount of gloss you get depends on how far you take your sanding. Less shine like a matt maybe stop at say 320. I took mine up to 1,000 grit and its like a semi gloss
Nice. It’s a very versatile product.
Really looking forward to the Pigments. Nice introduction here Brad.
Thanks Bruce
Just finished my bass build. Used stain and Tung Oil. Turned out (oot) nice but the basswood is not great. Hope to do an ash body guitar in the near future.
Ash is much better for that
Thanks for covering this stuff. I have used tru oil, tung oil, and water based poly. I have never heard of it besides your unboxing.
I’ll have to do a comparison one of these days.
@@BradAngove Sounds like a winning idea for a video! Those of us that don’t have spray rigs appreciate all the help we can get with durable finishes that can be applied without one! By the way, I was subbed here before you and Texas Toast became buddies, but the cross-channel comradery and jokes are always a laugh!
amazing polish, safe and east to apply, thanks for the discussion
Great video, Brad. You're the best! ❤
Thanks Marcos
@@BradAngove would be lovely to see a short video about Cornwall's creative colors, the color brand for Odie's. Of course, if you can!
Is that the pigments that get added in? I have some of those.
@@BradAngove yep, those ones! I saw one of their shorts in here, I fell in love with the called Port Wine. If one of those stains work the same on a guitar kit, I'm going for it!
That one is nice. I’ll do another demo with it at some point here.
My lp traditional pro III has what looks to be a wax finish on back. But is a dark reddish brown in color being all mahogany.
I like wax finishes in mahogany.
Neat stuff. I like this kind of cover. Did we see you using a shoe polish at one time ? I’ve seen someone and for some reason it’s you that comes to mind. I do remember it working ok. Seems it got down in the grains and such (antique like, if remembering right). Thanks man.
Yeah, I like this.
That wasn’t me but that’s a cool idea.
@@BradAngove that’s wax shoe polish.
You da man......man.,awsome as usual and thank you
Thanks
Cost is next to nothing when you get a jar for £45 UK and I'd say you could finish 30 full guitar body's and necks easy! Compared to my favourite tru oil that's around £10 a pot and that will finish 1-2 guitar body's to a high gloss. So it's definitely a good deal! And Brad does it have a shelf life once opened? Would look great on a nice ash body.
This is the comment I was looking for. The fact that you quoted the UK price was a bonus. Your shelf life question was the other thing I wanted to know. As I'm averaging about one guitar every three years, that would definitely be an issue.
Ta.
I’m not aware of any shelf life issues. I would think not because you can reapply over itself indefinitely. Might need a touch of their solvent to reconstitute it at some point if there’s an issue would be my best guess.
If you watch the Odie’s Oil channel’s videos, James (the creator) says that the Odie’s Oil if left alone fir too long will develop a skin. Pull that out and do not re-mix it back in. They sell Bloxygen also (Argon canister) to displace the regular air in the container once you finish using the oil.
I really enjoyed that and the finish looks good. Don't store that near your kitchen as it looks like the honey I buy in the farmers market. 🤣🤣. I agree perfect for a neck as I hate sticky gloss necks. Cant wait to see the other Odies stuff Demos. Might be worth comparing with Crimsons if you still have some of that left.
Ya, I may do that. An oil shootout type of thing.
I got this for my solo build kit. Got the coat on the back and it looks great! Waiting a bit to get the top done. Was curious. I watched someone use it on their fretboard. Would you recommend that? I’m not sure what to do for the fretboard. It’s a rosewood, but it almost looks grey. Curious as to what you’d think about the odies on the fretboard !
I use it in my fretboards. Personally I really like it for that.
Quality product.
Very interesting material loving how little it takes to get a "coat" I wonder tho how the dark butter and the dark aging wax would look mixed together
Yeh - Could you make a burst finish? Of course you wouldn't know how it would look until the UV thing. All fluorescent lights emit some UV.
@@daniellarson3068 I was thinking about that you could theoretically make a brighter burst guitar and over time it'll slowly get darker or just do a natural clear wax in the middle with the darkening wax and it'll be a slight vague burst at first but overtime the outside will get darker and make the burst more pronounced pretty interesting concept
Would I be able to apply this on top of a metallic lacquer without spraying a clear coat first?
You could. I would apply a clear coat first if it were me, but it’s not necessary.
Don't leave us hanging man, what's the stuff taste like? Is it good on whole wheat toast, does it pair well with moosehead?
Makes my pancakes look good and shiny.
The problem we have with Odies oil is on the dining table, which is walnut. The oil turns white when you place a plate or serving dish on the table, even with a 1/2" thick hot pad even your dinner plate turns the oil white and it leaves big white rings on the table. Pretty much tried everything to get it off but looks like we'll have to re=sand the table. We wont use it again once we do refinish it.
The heat is doing that? That’s odd; I haven’t noticed that in my tests. How many coats?
@@BradAngove 2
@@BradAngove It looked great to start with added another coat 6 months later , it just doesnt last like we'd hoped
Thanks for letting me know.
17:50 What grit do you think you would stop at if using Odies on the back of a guitar neck? I believe there is no sanding limit for Odies.
There is no limit. I would probably sand to 400 or maybe 800 before applying.
Interesting stuff. 🤐
Hi Brad. I'm learning alot from your videos. What applicator are you using? Does it change the color of the wood very-much? (the dark, looks lighter vs. the original?) How is the Feel of the finish as opposed to Tru oil (for my guitar neck). I subscribed. Great content explained & presented on your channel.
I’m using a very fine abrasive pad. The impact on wood color depends on the wood. It’s generally a mild darkening on woods like mahogany. Almost no change on something like a rock maple.
The feel is similar to a tru-oil or polymerized tung oil.
@@BradAngove Thank You my friend. Appreciate your input. I turned my Dad (and a buddy) "On" to your channel. They also Love this-stuff. oNe LovE from NYC
What are the ingredients in odie's oil
Hey Brad thank you so much for your instructional video on Odie's oil ! After having gone through the process of applying Odie's oil, buffing it off ,how long would you wait before applying the odie's butter?
You can do it pretty much any time.
Maybe if you throw that under a UV light you can place something over half of it to block the UV so we can see how much the other half darkens up...???
I tried just taking a photo first, but yeah that’s a great idea.
Will this still work well if I want to add a stain first and then finish it in odies ?
Yes
The manufacturer suggests buffing with an old, white bath towel.
Yes; cheap white rags or old bath towels work well.
You almost dropped me, man!
Haha yeah that was a close one
Ridiculously expensive in the UK for this stuff
It’s pricey in Canada too. Goes a long way though at least.
Awesome! Do these oils have the same issue as BLO? Can the rags you use to apply the oil ignite if left to dry?
No, Odies won’t combust
Not an issue for this stuff because there’s no solvent in it. You also use too small a quantity to cause combustion.
Can you use this over a spray finish?
You can
got a question for you, Brad, this is starting to make me crazy...I just picked up a Tele kit, mahogany body/maple neck, both already sprayed with a poly sealer...I've been going back and forth on what finish to use (spray can solid colour, modified Tung oil, Odie's Super Duper Oil) but I'm seeing quite a few posts online saying go with the paint, the reason being you can never be sure of getting off ALL of the poly sealer on the body and neck. I know you've worked with a lot of kits before and I'm generally happy with the kit but I want to know what you think...should I be confident I can sand off the sealer and use probably the Odie's (either Oil or Super Duper Oil) or should I just go with a spray can colour?
If you want to go with the Odies don’t be afraid of the sealer. It’s not like normal oils. Even if you end up with some sealer on there that is sanded smooth but not off, the Odies will be fine. As long as you’re not adding a pigment and trying to get that to go into the grain.
@@BradAngove in that case I think I'm gonna go with the Odie's Super Duper Oil...thanks, bud, much appreciated!
Cheers. I hope the finish goes well.
Brad, have you tried Odie’s over True Oil?
No, but I’ve used it over tung oil with no issues.
Too expensive here in Sweden.. 🙄
Fair enough. It’s pricey here too, but the jar goes a long way.
Feeding the algorithm
Thanks Sam
Ha what pad is that you useing?
I explained it the video. They are also available in the amazon link in the description.
Apply 60 coats & report back to us would ya Brad !!! ......lol ...After 60 see how it buffs with the wheel . Asking for a friend ..............
I won’t be applying 60 coats of anything haha. Ever.
WTF? Brad........don't forget what you already know, just bc you're using something new.
Why would you put the JAR out in the sun?
You KNOW that you need to put the treated WOOD in the sun ( bright, warm sun, coming through a big bay window).
Just tryin' to help.
That’s pretty obvious. What gave you the impression that I would put the jar in the sun? That would be absurd.
Would have been a good 3 minute video.
The company has Instagram reels if that suits your preferences better.