Thanks, Gary. With the help of your video, I was able to replace my driver-side door lock actuator with confidence. It took me around 2.5 hours. However, I know it was done well. No screws were left over :)
Great Video! Thank you for the step by step instruction. I have a 2013, driver side Actuator issue, where the car says the door is Open, even when driving. I just received my replacement assembly and will work on the fix today.
Love the video. I learned a lot from this video. I also have a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe and I had to replace the driver door Actuator. However, I broke my door handle in the process and now I have to replace the handle.
Thanks for the video. I had to change out the handle support (White GF Nylon part) and while I was in there replaced the Black GF Nylon part that snaps on to the lock actuator. It was on $12 and looked flimsy. All total $70 with shipping and about 2 hrs labor
Gary, 2013 Hyundai sport where open door indicator will stay on when driver door is closed which keeps interior lights on. Will randomly shut off then come on again. Alarm will frequently go off when doors are locked. Door latch has a little wiggle to it. Would this cause the indicator to randomly come on. Thanks in advance for your input. Great video.
The switch for the door closed signal to body module is in the actuator assembly. They seem to be a problem part. The 2013 is slightly different than the 2010.
I have a 2011 Santa fe and that medal door panel is just a bit different. I can get out all bolts that are visible, move the panel away from the 2 alignment pins, but it still feels stuck. Any thoughts?
I have a 2008 Santa Fe. All locks work normal except the driver's side will not unlock from outside with either fob or key only from inside handle. I can hear the kerklunk on drivers door when I press the unlock on the fob but to unlock i have to use the the inside latch. Is this the actuator or a disconnected cable problem?
It is hard to diagnose without testing the car in person. But the actuators are a very common problem with these cars. I replace three on my car. Both fronts and one rear.
Thanks for video! Super helpful. I'm having a problem with the door handle once back together. I'm hearing an extra click when i pull the handle and then the cable on the door handle (black one) won't retract back out and the door lock freezes (can't manually lock or unlock it). I have to remove the door lock cable and slightly pull on it in order for the door handle to fully retract. It works perfectly if that cable is not installed in the slot on the handle bracket. This is not a problem i had with the old unit. It's like the handle doesn't have enough range of motion for the new actuator. Any thoughts here?
@@serhanmeewisse6458 I think it was an alignment issue with the cables or something simple. I was so frustrated after working on it for so long (plus it was 6 months ago) that I was just glad to get it working the way it was supposed to.
You should still be able to unlock it manually. If not the latch release may be broken. In that case get a replacement door card from a wrecker before you start in case you break yours. You need to remove it to get at the cables. But try removing the inside latch and pull in the cables directly.
You could have improved the whole demonstration a lot by having a buddy be your camera man, hold it steady and use 2 hands for the operation! Movement of the camera made it difficult to visualize the broader picture. sometimes we could not see what you were describing. I think your info was good, but lacked on the presentation. Thanks!
Did you inadvertently mix up the cables? It's hard to tell from your note. Take your time and retrace your steps. You will find what is wrong. Test the functions before completing the assembly. IE you can test the module with out installing it. Test the door handle release by pulling on the cable that goes to the handle before putting the handle on. That way you can pin point the issue. Good luck. GG
Hi and thanks for the video! If i close my Santa Fe, it is trying to close again all 20 - 40 seconds. That pulls out my batterys energy maybe. And i hear the lock at the back of the car also. Is it the same Part which is damaged, but on the divers side maybe? If i want to open with the remote, all Doors are opened instantly, but the drivers door only is opening after the second or third try.
Thanks for your comment. This a typical way the actuator fails. When you lock or unlock with the remote the body control computer will send up to three attempts to the lock actuators until it gets confirmation that they are all locked. Sounds like its time for a new actuator on the drivers side.
Thank you very much Gary! Now I will try to get the actúator. With my diagnostic system, i could See that all Doors are closing, but it has shown, that drivers door stays opened, also if the door was closed. I wasnt 100% sure.
How did you figure out which door actuator it was? Did yours lock and unlock itself when putting it into drive as if one of the locks wasn’t working right so the computer kept locking and unlocking? Mine does it about 3-4 times then stays locked. I just need to know how to diagnose which one I guess. Any help is appreciated
If a door doesn’t lock the body control module will try three times to lock it before giving up. Once locked a switch in the actuator closes and tells the BCM it’s locked. If all the doors lock it doesn’t retry. To figure out the faulty door. It will be the the one not locked
@@garysgarage2118 ok guess next time I’ll check by putting on the parking brake in drive. Cause none of the indicators stay in the unlocked position. I did spray lube in the latches 8 months ago and it stopped. But just did it again one time yesterday. Thought it was the heat 84 degrees. Thanks for the help. Didn’t know it went through a check of 3 times. Thought it was just on the fritz.
I'm stuck at 1610. I can't find any bolt. I did everything else and it won't come off. It's loose , but I feel like those orange dot thing is hold on to the window bracket. I'm doing the rear passenger. I think the rivets holding the bracket..
There are a couple of locating pins but if you pull on the panel they will come out. The orange painted bolts are on the clamps that hold the window to the regulator. Adjust the window until you can see the bolts then loosen but don't remove them. You should now be able slide the window up by hand. Put a long piece of tape over the top of the door frame and tape it to the window on both sides. This will hold it up while you do the rest of the job. I hope that helps
Thanks Gary, great video. I replaced the actuator with a used one from the auto wreckers. It lasted for two days then the same problem. It won't lock or unlock the door automatically. Do you have any suggestions other than try another actuator?
Just get new ones from Rock Auto or someplace like that. It’s common for these to become intermittent before failing completely. It a crap shoot to get one from a wrecker. They should refund you.
Just keep the key position the same on the key part that's the cover on the other side and test out the lock with the latch closed on the narrow door frame side. Basically the same though.
That is tough. I haven’t done it that way. Follow the instructions for the door handle. You should be able to get the cover off by opening the back door. Then loosen the screw and remove the door handle. With some luck you can open the door by pulling on the cable.
@@danbryant3263 sorry for the bad video. I was not in my home garage and I had accept the conditions. I also did not have a tripod with me. But I thought it would be helpful to someone. But thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks, Gary. With the help of your video, I was able to replace my driver-side door lock actuator with confidence. It took me around 2.5 hours. However, I know it was done well. No screws were left over :)
Always a sign of a proper job
Thanks Gary you probably saved me 700 bucks great video
Great Video! Thank you for the step by step instruction. I have a 2013, driver side Actuator issue, where the car says the door is Open, even when driving. I just received my replacement assembly and will work on the fix today.
Thanks for your comment. Good luck with the job. Cheers
Thanks Gary. This is exactly what I needed!
Love the video. I learned a lot from this video. I also have a 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe and I had to replace the driver door Actuator. However, I broke my door handle in the process and now I have to replace the handle.
Thanks. This was the third one I replaced
Thanks for the video. I had to change out the handle support (White GF Nylon part) and while I was in there replaced the Black GF Nylon part that snaps on to the lock actuator. It was on $12 and looked flimsy. All total $70 with shipping and about 2 hrs labor
Glad it helped. It’s why I do these videos
Tahnks Gary. Wonderful and clear explanation.
Great video. Worked like a charm explaining it all. Thank you.
Gary, 2013 Hyundai sport where open door indicator will stay on when driver door is closed which keeps interior lights on. Will randomly shut off then come on again. Alarm will frequently go off when doors are locked. Door latch has a little wiggle to it. Would this cause the indicator to randomly come on. Thanks in advance for your input. Great video.
The switch for the door closed signal to body module is in the actuator assembly. They seem to be a problem part. The 2013 is slightly different than the 2010.
Just did my repair. Thanks so much for the step by step.
Glad the video helped.
Great video, thanks a lot Gary!
I have a 2011 Santa fe and that medal door panel is just a bit different. I can get out all bolts that are visible, move the panel away from the 2 alignment pins, but it still feels stuck. Any thoughts?
Same...did you get it loose?
@amy-susanyoung3719 yes, took out the screw holding the window in the track. It was located behind a rubber circle, I think.
I have a 2008 Santa Fe. All locks work normal except the driver's side will not unlock from outside with either fob or key only from inside handle. I can hear the kerklunk on drivers door when I press the unlock on the fob but to unlock i have to use the the inside latch. Is this the actuator or a disconnected cable problem?
It is hard to diagnose without testing the car in person. But the actuators are a very common problem with these cars. I replace three on my car. Both fronts and one rear.
Thanks for video! Super helpful. I'm having a problem with the door handle once back together. I'm hearing an extra click when i pull the handle and then the cable on the door handle (black one) won't retract back out and the door lock freezes (can't manually lock or unlock it). I have to remove the door lock cable and slightly pull on it in order for the door handle to fully retract. It works perfectly if that cable is not installed in the slot on the handle bracket. This is not a problem i had with the old unit. It's like the handle doesn't have enough range of motion for the new actuator. Any thoughts here?
Curious to hear how you fixed this?
@@serhanmeewisse6458 I think it was an alignment issue with the cables or something simple. I was so frustrated after working on it for so long (plus it was 6 months ago) that I was just glad to get it working the way it was supposed to.
Thanks for the video, bit the latch is locked and the door won't open how do I do this process with the door on and it won't open?
You should still be able to unlock it manually. If not the latch release may be broken. In that case get a replacement door card from a wrecker before you start in case you break yours. You need to remove it to get at the cables. But try removing the inside latch and pull in the cables directly.
You could have improved the whole demonstration a lot by having a buddy be your camera man, hold it steady and use 2 hands for the operation! Movement of the camera made it difficult to visualize the broader picture. sometimes we could not see what you were describing. I think your info was good, but lacked on the presentation. Thanks!
Please have better camera angles and lighting...
Nice video my friend very helpful thanks
my dad and i got everything all connected, but now the lock keeps jamming up and the latch won’t work. any advice?
Did you inadvertently mix up the cables? It's hard to tell from your note. Take your time and retrace your steps. You will find what is wrong. Test the functions before completing the assembly. IE you can test the module with out installing it. Test the door handle release by pulling on the cable that goes to the handle before putting the handle on. That way you can pin point the issue. Good luck. GG
Hi and thanks for the video!
If i close my Santa Fe, it is trying to close again all 20 - 40 seconds. That pulls out my batterys energy maybe. And i hear the lock at the back of the car also. Is it the same Part which is damaged, but on the divers side maybe? If i want to open with the remote, all Doors are opened instantly, but the drivers door only is opening after the second or third try.
Thanks for your comment. This a typical way the actuator fails. When you lock or unlock with the remote the body control computer will send up to three attempts to the lock actuators until it gets confirmation that they are all locked. Sounds like its time for a new actuator on the drivers side.
Thank you very much Gary! Now I will try to get the actúator. With my diagnostic system, i could See that all Doors are closing, but it has shown, that drivers door stays opened, also if the door was closed. I wasnt 100% sure.
thanks for the video pls i want to know the frt lh actuator part number ?
Thanks! How long would this take, from start to finish, without having to shoot the video?
About 1 Hour
@@garysgarage2118, thanks! I was thinking at least 2 hours, but I like your estimate better!
@@Boothby171 First time takes longer. Then you will get quicker. I have done 3 in this car. Both front and one rear.
@@garysgarage2118, thanks! I just did it this weekend, and it took me 1.5 hours! Not including the 5-minute review of your video, first!
thank you, good luck.
How did you figure out which door actuator it was? Did yours lock and unlock itself when putting it into drive as if one of the locks wasn’t working right so the computer kept locking and unlocking? Mine does it about 3-4 times then stays locked.
I just need to know how to diagnose which one I guess. Any help is appreciated
If a door doesn’t lock the body control module will try three times to lock it before giving up. Once locked a switch in the actuator closes and tells the BCM it’s locked. If all the doors lock it doesn’t retry. To figure out the faulty door. It will be the the one not locked
@@garysgarage2118 ok guess next time I’ll check by putting on the parking brake in drive. Cause none of the indicators stay in the unlocked position. I did spray lube in the latches 8 months ago and it stopped. But just did it again one time yesterday. Thought it was the heat 84 degrees. Thanks for the help. Didn’t know it went through a check of 3 times. Thought it was just on the fritz.
I'm stuck at 1610. I can't find any bolt. I did everything else and it won't come off. It's loose , but I feel like those orange dot thing is hold on to the window bracket. I'm doing the rear passenger. I think the rivets holding the bracket..
There are a couple of locating pins but if you pull on the panel they will come out. The orange painted bolts are on the clamps that hold the window to the regulator. Adjust the window until you can see the bolts then loosen but don't remove them. You should now be able slide the window up by hand. Put a long piece of tape over the top of the door frame and tape it to the window on both sides. This will hold it up while you do the rest of the job. I hope that helps
Thanks Gary, great video. I replaced the actuator with a used one from the auto wreckers. It lasted for two days then the same problem. It won't lock or unlock the door automatically. Do you have any suggestions other than try another actuator?
Just get new ones from Rock Auto or someplace like that. It’s common for these to become intermittent before failing completely. It a crap shoot to get one from a wrecker. They should refund you.
Thank you, this is just what I need! Same car, same year, but, how much more complicated is the front driver side door with the key lock?
It’s mostly the same
Just keep the key position the same on the key part that's the cover on the other side and test out the lock with the latch closed on the narrow door frame side. Basically the same though.
How much would a shop charge for this ? My brother paid 850.00 . Parts and labor Is this fair? Thanks
It can vary but it is a $500 to $600 job. Factory actuator are about $300. The rest is labor an tax.
@@garysgarage2118 Thanks
Thank you very much!!!
Hola qué modelo y año es este especifico de santafe y de cuánto es el conector de 4 oh de 6
2010 Santa Fe Sport. 3.5 V6
@@garysgarage2118 ok 👌🏾 de cuánto es el número del conector de 4 oh de 6
Will try to find another video for replacing trunk lock of same car which is stuck, not opening and locked
I have not done one yet.
sure no worries. Thanks@@garysgarage2118
Thank you
Mine is the driver's door but the door is shut and can't be opened. You can't pry the bottom like in the video.
That is tough. I haven’t done it that way. Follow the instructions for the door handle. You should be able to get the cover off by opening the back door. Then loosen the screw and remove the door handle. With some luck you can open the door by pulling on the cable.
Get a tripod, Dude.
Problème avec le vidéo qui n'est pas toujours à la bonne place en plus d'être très sombre 😢
Sorry It is hard to do the work and shoot the video myself. One day I'll get someone to do the camera work for me.
I hope you learned what you needed
The info was good the video was terrible. Either get someone to video you or put on tripod and don’t let someone grind over your commentary
@@danbryant3263 sorry for the bad video. I was not in my home garage and I had accept the conditions. I also did not have a tripod with me. But I thought it would be helpful to someone. But thanks for watching and commenting.