I use 6m threaded rod, about 7 inches long. Screw the rod into the block, then put all the pieces on and if you want to leave the rod in instead of using the long screws, make sure you get a couple of 6m nuts too. Anyway, carefully hold all the assembly tight against the block, remove one of the threaded rods and replace it with the long screws and then repeat on other side. I got threaded rod at my local Ace Hardware store.
Thanks. I was a marine mechanic for about 5 years before I started working on small engines. I am still learning how to film and work at the same time. It's kinda awkward to work with a camera right in front of you 😅
It's hard to tell if he lacks experience from just this video, if anything, trying to repair this engine without a good mower for it would indicate a lack of experience. But as for what he actually did, I see no problem with his experience level. This mower is valuable at least for making videos. I think it would be a very helpful video for someone with this engine. I also subscribed.
@@ridingmowerkingThank you! I currently have this engine on a shelf waiting to be used on another mower when I need it. The only thing left to do is to flush out the engine oil since there was water in it. I am thinking about using diesel to rinse out the crankcase a few times.
@@ridingmowerking I concurr, except For experience because it would have gave him the conclusion that you deduced. And as you indicate, there is value for everyone, especially those who lack all knowledge whatsoever, And that's most of these millennials. Take care.
I pull all the engines for parts if I’m not fixing it to sale 😊, I use the stud bolts to keep it all together correctly, valves can stick if you use corn gas also 😢😢😢
WOW! I have this exact engine on a craftsman mower. The mower was used for two years, then put into storage with gas in the tank. Now 18 years later, I need to use it and I see gas jelly in the tank. The start rope hasn't been pulled so I'm wondering about the extent of cleaning I might need to do to the fuel system. I just stopped short of ordering an ultrasonic cleaner until I asked you about it since reviving older machines is your speciality. The mower literally looks like new and I don't want to trash it by doing something stupid. What do you think I should do to make it work properly? BTW, I watched this video And I plan to subscribe and watch others because of my interest in refurbing a toro weedeater that sat in the weather for two years. It's the same age as the mower.
I would definitely say you don't need an ultrasonic cleaner. I've been cleaning carburetors by hand for almost 10 years and I only recently got a cleaner. It just really saves time by cleaning the carburetors for me while I go do other things. You can clean this carburetor by hand pretty easily or just buy a new genuine (or aftermarket) carburetor for very cheap online. This is what I would do in your situation. Remove fuel tank and rinse it out with fresh gas the best you can. Next I would spray some WD40 in the cylinder to help lubricate things before you try starting it. Then I would either try cleaning or replacing the carburetor. If you get it started after that, let it run for around 5 minutes and then change the oil once it gets hot (draining the oil when it's hot, allows more to drain out). Then I'd reccomend changing out the air filter.
I have 2 pieces of 3/16 brake line little longer than mounting bolts. Put them in engine put gaskets carburetor air cleaner on the brake line tubes. Put pressure on air cleaner inner wriggle tube to line up parts on 1 hole pull tube Put bolt in then other
@@HarrisonsGarage23 At about 21:00 in the video, you reconnected what you referred to as "choke linkage." That butterfly seemed to move freely for you. Mine was frozen solid until after over 50 minutes in the U.S. cleaner with different cleaning products. Apparently, the choke starts to release slowly after you pull the starter rope the first time. This causes the engine to surge momentarily after it starts, or maybe the surge is related to my bending linkage 20 years ago because the rpm was too low to develop sufficient torque to cut grass without having to crawl slowly behind the mower. I don't remember which linkage I bent 20 years ago--such is life. Thankfully, I had fewer gaskets and no spacers to remember so reassembly was not difficult. My 20 year-old craftsman is cutting grass again, thanks to you. Have a great day!
I use 6m threaded rod, about 7 inches long. Screw the rod into the block, then put all the pieces on and if you want to leave the rod in instead of using the long screws, make sure you get a couple of 6m nuts too. Anyway, carefully hold all the assembly tight against the block, remove one of the threaded rods and replace it with the long screws and then repeat on other side. I got threaded rod at my local Ace Hardware store.
Good job Sir
You gained a new subscriber
He clearly does not have a great deal of experience but he does pay attention to detail and he did a thorough job.
Thanks. I was a marine mechanic for about 5 years before I started working on small engines. I am still learning how to film and work at the same time. It's kinda awkward to work with a camera right in front of you 😅
It's hard to tell if he lacks experience from just this video, if anything, trying to repair this engine without a good mower for it would indicate a lack of experience. But as for what he actually did, I see no problem with his experience level. This mower is valuable at least for making videos. I think it would be a very helpful video for someone with this engine. I also subscribed.
@@ridingmowerkingThank you! I currently have this engine on a shelf waiting to be used on another mower when I need it. The only thing left to do is to flush out the engine oil since there was water in it. I am thinking about using diesel to rinse out the crankcase a few times.
@@ridingmowerking I concurr, except For experience because it would have gave him the conclusion that you deduced. And as you indicate, there is value for everyone, especially those who lack all knowledge whatsoever, And that's most of these millennials. Take care.
I pull all the engines for parts if I’m not fixing it to sale 😊, I use the stud bolts to keep it all together correctly, valves can stick if you use corn gas also 😢😢😢
I agree, I do a few of these and i keep stud bolts just for this reason. Put together, tighten up one stud to hold then replace with bolts.
WOW! I have this exact engine on a craftsman mower. The mower was used for two years, then put into storage with gas in the tank. Now 18 years later, I need to use it and I see gas jelly in the tank. The start rope hasn't been pulled so I'm wondering about the extent of cleaning I might need to do to the fuel system. I just stopped short of ordering an ultrasonic cleaner until I asked you about it since reviving older machines is your speciality. The mower literally looks like new and I don't want to trash it by doing something stupid.
What do you think I should do to make it work properly? BTW, I watched this video And I plan to subscribe and watch others because of my interest in refurbing a toro weedeater that sat in the weather for two years. It's the same age as the mower.
I would definitely say you don't need an ultrasonic cleaner. I've been cleaning carburetors by hand for almost 10 years and I only recently got a cleaner. It just really saves time by cleaning the carburetors for me while I go do other things.
You can clean this carburetor by hand pretty easily or just buy a new genuine (or aftermarket) carburetor for very cheap online.
This is what I would do in your situation. Remove fuel tank and rinse it out with fresh gas the best you can. Next I would spray some WD40 in the cylinder to help lubricate things before you try starting it.
Then I would either try cleaning or replacing the carburetor. If you get it started after that, let it run for around 5 minutes and then change the oil once it gets hot (draining the oil when it's hot, allows more to drain out). Then I'd reccomend changing out the air filter.
Also thanks for watching! I appreciate your comment
@@HarrisonsGarage23 WHUUPS! It's done. I justified needing the cleaner anyway. Thanks again for the great video.
I have 2 pieces of 3/16 brake line little longer than mounting bolts. Put them in engine put gaskets carburetor air cleaner on the brake line tubes. Put pressure on air cleaner inner wriggle tube to line up parts on 1 hole pull tube Put bolt in then other
@@HarrisonsGarage23 At about 21:00 in the video, you reconnected what you referred to as "choke linkage." That butterfly seemed to move freely for you. Mine was frozen solid until after over 50 minutes in the U.S. cleaner with different cleaning products. Apparently, the choke starts to release slowly after you pull the starter rope the first time. This causes the engine to surge momentarily after it starts, or maybe the surge is related to my bending linkage 20 years ago because the rpm was too low to develop sufficient torque to cut grass without having to crawl slowly behind the mower. I don't remember which linkage I bent 20 years ago--such is life.
Thankfully, I had fewer gaskets and no spacers to remember so reassembly was not difficult. My 20 year-old craftsman is cutting grass again, thanks to you. Have a great day!
Junker