A lovely rundown of one of my favourite OO locos. I have several in my collection ranging from an original Dublo 3 rail, right through to some of the fanciful Wrenn versions and some custom painted examples. To think this smooth running model was first produced in the mid fifties is astonishing. I believe its the only one thats ever had the full operating valve gear modelled. Thankyou so much for producing this.
Thank you indeed for your comments and observations . It was the first attempt by Hornby Dublo at producing a scale model; driving wheels, proportions etc contributing to its magnificent look. The pre war tooled A4 and Duchess fell short in some of those respects. All Hornby Dublo models with Walschaerts valve gear had fully actuating movement with the exception of the A4. The cylinders and massive appearance of the valve gear were probably exaggerated somewhat but they didn't detract a all from the overall appearance. Cheers! Graeme
cood video i bought my wrenn std4 tank in the mid 70s it ran well when the motor give up i had a comet chassis and portscap motor fitted and romford wheels
Many thanks for your comment and interest. So it was no longer a Wrenn model then? How long did the motor last? I had a Wrenn West Country which had a portescap motor and scale bogie and trailing wheels. The Wrenn drivers were retained but the running characteristics were poor so I got rid! C'est la vie!
I'm à big fan of these. I have 3 Dublo 3-rail exemples and à 2,-rail one. Some years ago I bought à Bachmann version. It just doesn't have the sheer présence of these diecast monsters,even if it is better detailed. The Dublo models just seem... right. ❤
You are so right in your assessment. I have a weathered Bachmann one and a green one which looks a little better but they do not match the H.D./Wrenn versions.
Another great video . I also have a soft spot for these models . I used to study the catalogues in the 70s but Wrenn was pretty expensive for me and I never managed to get anything other than the R1 . Only in the last 10 years have I acquired the Wrenn. Models that I really wanted . That includes City of Glasgow, Windsor Castle , Sir Nigel Gresley and the 4MT in LMS red . Mine is definitely more Matt than yours . I did get a Bachmann 4MT which is very nice , but has always been a bit lethargic! Quite fancy getting a good Wrenn Black one , your video just persuading me .
Hi Russell, Thank you for your welcome comment. Delighted to hear that you going to give purchasing one some consideration. You won't regret it ! Cheers, Graeme
Hiya - I have 2 similar Locos - A Hornby R3804 BR 2-6-4T Fowler Class 4P No. 42334!!! I also have a Hornby R30271 LMS Fowler Class 4P 2-6-4T No. 2300 (Part of The 'Big Four' Collection) Lovely Locos - I like the Loco in the C R Blue Livery 😉🚂🚂🚂
Many thanks for your observations. All the LMS 2-6-4 tank engines were impressive looking locomotives. Bachmann produced the correct Fairburn version in Caledonian livery. It's all good stuff!
That's good to hear. I bought the weathered Bachmann version not long after it came out. I've hardly run it at all and a few years ago I picked up the green one which I much prefer. In fact, what I'll think I'll do is apply some weathering powders to it as the "weathered" one just doesn't do it! Cheers Graeme
Thankyou for another great video about what is my favourite H/D loco. I have several in various states of repair and I was wondering how do you like the sticky backed decals? Do you recommend them? I've shyed away from them in the past because I thought you'd be able to see the edges of the decals but I didnt notice that on your model. Cheers.
Hi, Thank you for your question. Personally I prefer waterslide transfers, no need to cut out at the edge, no need to get right first time and so on. The only problem was that inexplicably they had the potential and a tendency to break up when applying. This happened even with top rate manufacturers such as Fox; small numbers would break up. I gave up with lining out on cabs and tenders as the transfer would expand when wet requiring cutting and butting...not easy to get right..Short sections such as cylinder lining and boiler bands were relatively straightforward. The supplier of the transfers for the 2-6-4T offered both waterslide and sticky back. Unfortunately, the waterslde tank lining broke up so sticky back it had to be. A sharp scalpel is needed to cut them out. I tried but failed. A rough white edging appeared no matter what tool or application I tried. What about scissors? Nope, I'm not accurate enough. (Eye sight and disability in my right hand going against me!). My good wife came to the rescue and she was able to accurately scissor cut out the tank and bunker linings as well as the cylinder and boiler band linings. Yes, a tiny white paper edging still appears, but that is easily dealt with by painting it black (in the case of the black loco). A word of warning: don't use a felt tipped pen! These invariably bleed through the paper and interfere with the lining or lettering. Use enamel paint...it dries quickly. Then you have to get the positioning right first time. Not as difficult as it sounds, just take your time. Finally, spray a couple of coats of satin varnish over the model. Any slight variations of black on the loco vis-a-vis the applied transfers vanishes. Hope this helps. Thank you for your comments.👍 Graeme
@@crewelocoman5b161 Thanks very much for taking the time to write such a detailed and informative reply. You have answered all my concerns and I will be ordering the sticky decals and will take care and follow your advice on painting the edges etc. Thanks again and all the best!
@@TenCJones You're wehcome. Hope it works well for you. Cheers, Graeme
26 днів тому
Is there a way to tell the HD from the Wrenn version in that BR livery? Does it have Wrenn branding on it? I am curious as the Wrenn ones command a much higher price. I have both three rail and two rail Dublo examples. My 2-rail needs a bit of work as it has a bit of a wobble, but i haven't managed to cure it yet. Much more fun to drive Dublo diecast locos than even my modern DCC stuff with sound.
Thank you for your question. The respective brandings of the manufacturers are located underneath on the chassis at the coal bunker end. It is possible to tell a Hornby Dublo version from the screw hole at the back end of the bunker which enabled alterations to be made (wave form around the magnet?) for slow running which was abandoned between 1959-1961with the advent of better controllers in the 1950s. The 'hole' did appear on some of the first production runs of the Wrenn but I have never come across any. Also, from 1972 onwards all Wrenn locos and rolling stock were provided with metal rimmed trailing wheels. From 1966-72 they were plastic as was Hornby Dublo. Hornby Dublo made a much improved chimney casting which appeared in 1959. Wrenn models are almost always to be seen fitted with the Tri-ang universal tension lock coupling altough the H.D. was included as an option to be fitted. I suppose the price difference comes down to condition and collectibility. Hornby Dublo were toys and generally treated as such hence the very play worn examples one finds today. Wrenn became aware of the collectibility of their models and deliberately catered for this demand with 'limited editions' and unintentionally with short runs, livery variations, 5 pole motors not to mention the hugely extended ranges and fanciful liveries etc. Also, many of these varieties, when they become avaiable. are nearly always close to "mint boxed " condition.
25 днів тому
@@crewelocoman5b161 Thanks, for the reply, very informative! I am just considering whether I will buy a Wrenn made one if I see one for sale. I think these were the best Dublo locos, but I also like the N2.
There's plenty to be had. As well as "You Know Where Bay" here's a couple of links: wrennmodelrailways.com/ www.wrennspecialist.co.uk/ www.ebay.co.uk/str/wholelottacollectables/WRENN/_i.html?store_cat=2132858018 These sites do stock excellent examples, you know, the "mint boxed" variety so expect hefty prices to match. For me, Hornby Dublo reached their zenith with the 8F and Castle, not so sure about what came after...the West Country looked like a rushed job with the future not looking so bright for Meccano, Dinky and Hornby. The N2 was chosen as the first '00' gauge to be produced as it was just about large enough to take the chunky Ringfield motor. 4mm manufacturing was much easier than H0 at 3.5mm back in the day, but we are stuck with it now (rails being H0 in width) but lets not go there...!🤔 BTW there's nothing quite like holding a good Wrenn model upside down in your hands and marvelling at that retro solid engineering technology!
A lovely rundown of one of my favourite OO locos.
I have several in my collection ranging from an original Dublo 3 rail, right through to some of the fanciful Wrenn versions and some custom painted examples.
To think this smooth running model was first produced in the mid fifties is astonishing. I believe its the only one thats ever had the full operating valve gear modelled.
Thankyou so much for producing this.
Thank you indeed for your comments and observations . It was the first attempt by Hornby Dublo at producing a scale model; driving wheels, proportions etc contributing to its magnificent look. The pre war tooled A4 and Duchess fell short in some of those respects. All Hornby Dublo models with Walschaerts valve gear had fully actuating movement with the exception of the A4. The cylinders and massive appearance of the valve gear were probably exaggerated somewhat but they didn't detract a all from the overall appearance.
Cheers!
Graeme
cood video i bought my wrenn std4 tank in the mid 70s it ran well when the motor give up i had a comet chassis and portscap motor fitted and romford wheels
Many thanks for your comment and interest. So it was no longer a Wrenn model then? How long did the motor last? I had a Wrenn West Country which had a portescap motor and scale bogie and trailing wheels. The Wrenn drivers were retained but the running characteristics were poor so I got rid! C'est la vie!
I'm à big fan of these. I have 3 Dublo 3-rail exemples and à 2,-rail one. Some years ago I bought à Bachmann version. It just doesn't have the sheer présence of these diecast monsters,even if it is better detailed. The Dublo models just seem... right. ❤
You are so right in your assessment. I have a weathered Bachmann one and a green one which looks a little better but they do not match the H.D./Wrenn versions.
Another great video . I also have a soft spot for these models . I used to study the catalogues in the 70s but Wrenn was pretty expensive for me and I never managed to get anything other than the R1 . Only in the last 10 years have I acquired the Wrenn. Models that I really wanted . That includes City of Glasgow, Windsor Castle , Sir Nigel Gresley and the 4MT in LMS red . Mine is definitely more Matt than yours . I did get a Bachmann 4MT which is very nice , but has always been a bit lethargic! Quite fancy getting a good Wrenn Black one , your video just persuading me .
Hi Russell, Thank you for your welcome comment. Delighted to hear that you going to give purchasing one some consideration. You won't regret it !
Cheers,
Graeme
Hiya - I have 2 similar Locos - A Hornby R3804 BR 2-6-4T Fowler Class 4P No. 42334!!! I also have a Hornby R30271 LMS Fowler Class 4P 2-6-4T No. 2300 (Part of The 'Big Four' Collection) Lovely Locos - I like the Loco in the C R Blue Livery 😉🚂🚂🚂
Many thanks for your observations. All the LMS 2-6-4 tank engines were impressive looking locomotives. Bachmann produced the correct Fairburn version in Caledonian livery. It's all good stuff!
thanks it still runs well the came changer was bachmann version should have waited
That's good to hear. I bought the weathered Bachmann version not long after it came out. I've hardly run it at all and a few years ago I picked up the green one which I much prefer. In fact, what I'll think I'll do is apply some weathering powders to it as the "weathered" one just doesn't do it!
Cheers
Graeme
Thankyou for another great video about what is my favourite H/D loco. I have several in various states of repair and I was wondering how do you like the sticky backed decals? Do you recommend them? I've shyed away from them in the past because I thought you'd be able to see the edges of the decals but I didnt notice that on your model. Cheers.
Hi, Thank you for your question. Personally I prefer waterslide transfers, no need to cut out at the edge, no need to get right first time and so on. The only problem was that inexplicably they had the potential and a tendency to break up when applying. This happened even with top rate manufacturers such as Fox; small numbers would break up. I gave up with lining out on cabs and tenders as the transfer would expand when wet requiring cutting and butting...not easy to get right..Short sections such as cylinder lining and boiler bands were relatively straightforward.
The supplier of the transfers for the 2-6-4T offered both waterslide and sticky back. Unfortunately, the waterslde tank lining broke up so sticky back it had to be. A sharp scalpel is needed to cut them out. I tried but failed. A rough white edging appeared no matter what tool or application I tried. What about scissors? Nope, I'm not accurate enough. (Eye sight and disability in my right hand going against me!). My good wife came to the rescue and she was able to accurately scissor cut out the tank and bunker linings as well as the cylinder and boiler band linings. Yes, a tiny white paper edging still appears, but that is easily dealt with by painting it black (in the case of the black loco). A word of warning: don't use a felt tipped pen! These invariably bleed through the paper and interfere with the lining or lettering. Use enamel paint...it dries quickly. Then you have to get the positioning right first time. Not as difficult as it sounds, just take your time. Finally, spray a couple of coats of satin varnish over the model. Any slight variations of black on the loco vis-a-vis the applied transfers vanishes. Hope this helps.
Thank you for your comments.👍
Graeme
@@crewelocoman5b161 Thanks very much for taking the time to write such a detailed and informative reply. You have answered all my concerns and I will be ordering the sticky decals and will take care and follow your advice on painting the edges etc. Thanks again and all the best!
@@TenCJones You're wehcome. Hope it works well for you.
Cheers,
Graeme
Is there a way to tell the HD from the Wrenn version in that BR livery? Does it have Wrenn branding on it? I am curious as the Wrenn ones command a much higher price. I have both three rail and two rail Dublo examples. My 2-rail needs a bit of work as it has a bit of a wobble, but i haven't managed to cure it yet. Much more fun to drive Dublo diecast locos than even my modern DCC stuff with sound.
Thank you for your question. The respective brandings of the manufacturers are located underneath on the chassis at the coal bunker end. It is possible to tell a Hornby Dublo version from the screw hole at the back end of the bunker which enabled alterations to be made (wave form around the magnet?) for slow running which was abandoned between 1959-1961with the advent of better controllers in the 1950s. The 'hole' did appear on some of the first production runs of the Wrenn but I have never come across any. Also, from 1972 onwards all Wrenn locos and rolling stock were provided with metal rimmed trailing wheels. From 1966-72 they were plastic as was Hornby Dublo. Hornby Dublo made a much improved chimney casting which appeared in 1959. Wrenn models are almost always to be seen fitted with the Tri-ang universal tension lock coupling altough the H.D. was included as an option to be fitted.
I suppose the price difference comes down to condition and collectibility. Hornby Dublo were toys and generally treated as such hence the very play worn examples one finds today. Wrenn became aware of the collectibility of their models and deliberately catered for this demand with 'limited editions' and unintentionally with short runs, livery variations, 5 pole motors not to mention the hugely extended ranges and fanciful liveries etc. Also, many of these varieties, when they become avaiable. are nearly always close to "mint boxed " condition.
@@crewelocoman5b161 Thanks, for the reply, very informative! I am just considering whether I will buy a Wrenn made one if I see one for sale. I think these were the best Dublo locos, but I also like the N2.
There's plenty to be had. As well as "You Know Where Bay" here's a couple of links:
wrennmodelrailways.com/
www.wrennspecialist.co.uk/
www.ebay.co.uk/str/wholelottacollectables/WRENN/_i.html?store_cat=2132858018
These sites do stock excellent examples, you know, the "mint boxed" variety so expect hefty prices to match.
For me, Hornby Dublo reached their zenith with the 8F and Castle, not so sure about what came after...the West Country looked like a rushed job with the future not looking so bright for Meccano, Dinky and Hornby.
The N2 was chosen as the first '00' gauge to be produced as it was just about large enough to take the chunky Ringfield motor. 4mm manufacturing was much easier than H0 at 3.5mm back in the day, but we are stuck with it now (rails being H0 in width) but lets not go there...!🤔
BTW there's nothing quite like holding a good Wrenn model upside down in your hands and marvelling at that retro solid engineering technology!