I know what you mean about the "pay-wall" I bought a new pair of gloves from Motocard and they are going to cost me another twenty five quid plus 3 customs documents to have exchanged. Any savings that I thought I was making have been wiped out!
The Jam said it: "And the public wants what the public gets But I don't get what this society wants" I'm going underground - or at least hiding in my shed 😉👍👍
I just bought a 1983 TS 150. Looks pretty bad, but with a few new parts and a bit of paint I haope it will look as good as yours :-) This a a year old video the previous owner took. He replaced the engine seals, but dont know if this video is before or after. ua-cam.com/video/hIZP5GsO6Hw/v-deo.html Thanks for all the videos...really brilliant. Ohhh...my front brake is terrible. The rear brake is much better...which is not great on a bike :-) How is your front brake compared to the rear ?
Looks v good to me. I think, so long as the steel down and under tube is solid, there’s nothing critical that can rust. Plenty of spares available (at a price) and the rear subframe is thick aluminium. From the days when I rode this daily, in all weather, you don’t want too sharp a front brake. No ABS etc. that we are all used to. Back brake on mine all renewed. It will lock the back wheel. But I put really crap tyres on it to save money. I think better tyres would improve the braking on mine. I’m still a rear brake guy, I guess old habits die hard. The brakes are only ever going to be below average as they have the brake arms inside the drum. Good for longevity, but not so good for leverage. It passed its MOT, so they count as legal. I also found more expensive shoes did work better. It’s a garage queen these days. Maybe, one day, I’ll get the engine rebuilt. Have you seen ‘Running Torchlight’ channel.? Will you be uploading any video?
@@CodgerBiker Thanks for the link to Running Torchlight. Very good videos on his site. I will be looking for some quality front brake shoes, as the brakes are a little to weak for my liking :-) My bike passet the MOT yesterday, and today it was delivered to me by the previous owner. Took it for a ride, and hae looked it over a bit better so I can get on ordereing some parts. One thing that I notices is that my clutch is VERY draggy when the engine /oil is cold on first start. I can not get it into gear. But after rnning a bit, all is fine. Is yours like that ? I will be ordereing new oil, and clutch plates. Its perfect once up to temp. Also, did you ever fix the changing idle RPM from turning the sterring from side to side ? Mine also does this. After looking the bike over, the frame looks solid, and the engine does run nice, So I just need to get the looks sorted :-) Here is a short video from doday. Engine is cold, and just released the choke. ua-cam.com/video/_3iv9T-ALSk/v-deo.html
I think part of the clutch drag is due to the gear oil. It was always (as I remember) a bit of an art to get it right. MZ specified SAE 60, but it was never available here. People put all kinds of oil in the gear box, and it can drag when cold. Mine did it when I put seal restorer in it but seems ok when I changed it to Comma EP80w mineral gear oil (they do 75 also, might be better). You might find the clutch is ok, but wrong oil. As for the idle I noticed the throttle cable was routed under the tank (I think this was wrong) so I've routed it through the clip/hanger by the horn. The tank now just sits on the frame with no wiring/cables under it. I seem to remember that is how it should be to prevent any trapping. Might be worth checking. Don't take what I say as gospel, it was a long time ago that this was my daily ride. It was great fun to take the bike on the road again last year. Only one of us had changed! 😉👍 Video is great. 👍👍
PS I just recommissioned mine. I’ll post a video later. It still ticks over more with bars turned right. I think it was always like this. Original carb is very simple, but very reliable. I tried other carbs, but always return to this one, you just have to keep the bike running with a blip - old school style 👍
@@CodgerBiker Great, looking forward to your video :-) Im going to read up a little more on oil types in the german forums. I will try re-route the throttle cable, as mine is pinched a bit under the tank. ua-cam.com/video/_NoOdyWH-NE/v-deo.html I just ordered a bunch of new things to get it looking nicer.
I love that you were reunited with your old bike
Brilliant 👍
Yes. It's still weird to see it after so many decades. It'll outlive me no doubt 😉👍
Great little bike!
Cheap and cheerful, but never broke down 👍
Awesome bud cheers 👍🏻
Cheers! 👍👍
I know what you mean about the "pay-wall" I bought a new pair of gloves from Motocard and they are going to cost me another twenty five quid plus 3 customs documents to have exchanged. Any savings that I thought I was making have been wiped out!
The Jam said it: "And the public wants what the public gets
But I don't get what this society wants" I'm going underground - or at least hiding in my shed 😉👍👍
Not me, twas the donkey man`s doings💪The personification of our youth, never get rid.👌
Yes a decrepit smoky two stroker with a broken exhaust! Worry not, the Camel is safe 👌👌 A mechanical Dorian Gray 💪
I just bought a 1983 TS 150. Looks pretty bad, but with a few new parts and a bit of paint I haope it will look as good as yours :-) This a a year old video the previous owner took. He replaced the engine seals, but dont know if this video is before or after. ua-cam.com/video/hIZP5GsO6Hw/v-deo.html Thanks for all the videos...really brilliant. Ohhh...my front brake is terrible. The rear brake is much better...which is not great on a bike :-) How is your front brake compared to the rear ?
Looks v good to me. I think, so long as the steel down and under tube is solid, there’s nothing critical that can rust. Plenty of spares available (at a price) and the rear subframe is thick aluminium. From the days when I rode this daily, in all weather, you don’t want too sharp a front brake. No ABS etc. that we are all used to. Back brake on mine all renewed. It will lock the back wheel. But I put really crap tyres on it to save money. I think better tyres would improve the braking on mine. I’m still a rear brake guy, I guess old habits die hard. The brakes are only ever going to be below average as they have the brake arms inside the drum. Good for longevity, but not so good for leverage. It passed its MOT, so they count as legal. I also found more expensive shoes did work better. It’s a garage queen these days. Maybe, one day, I’ll get the engine rebuilt. Have you seen ‘Running Torchlight’ channel.? Will you be uploading any video?
@@CodgerBiker Thanks for the link to Running Torchlight. Very good videos on his site. I will be looking for some quality front brake shoes, as the brakes are a little to weak for my liking :-) My bike passet the MOT yesterday, and today it was delivered to me by the previous owner. Took it for a ride, and hae looked it over a bit better so I can get on ordereing some parts. One thing that I notices is that my clutch is VERY draggy when the engine /oil is cold on first start. I can not get it into gear. But after rnning a bit, all is fine. Is yours like that ? I will be ordereing new oil, and clutch plates. Its perfect once up to temp. Also, did you ever fix the changing idle RPM from turning the sterring from side to side ? Mine also does this. After looking the bike over, the frame looks solid, and the engine does run nice, So I just need to get the looks sorted :-) Here is a short video from doday. Engine is cold, and just released the choke. ua-cam.com/video/_3iv9T-ALSk/v-deo.html
I think part of the clutch drag is due to the gear oil. It was always (as I remember) a bit of an art to get it right. MZ specified SAE 60, but it was never available here. People put all kinds of oil in the gear box, and it can drag when cold. Mine did it when I put seal restorer in it but seems ok when I changed it to Comma EP80w mineral gear oil (they do 75 also, might be better). You might find the clutch is ok, but wrong oil. As for the idle I noticed the throttle cable was routed under the tank (I think this was wrong) so I've routed it through the clip/hanger by the horn. The tank now just sits on the frame with no wiring/cables under it. I seem to remember that is how it should be to prevent any trapping. Might be worth checking. Don't take what I say as gospel, it was a long time ago that this was my daily ride. It was great fun to take the bike on the road again last year. Only one of us had changed! 😉👍 Video is great. 👍👍
PS I just recommissioned mine. I’ll post a video later. It still ticks over more with bars turned right. I think it was always like this. Original carb is very simple, but very reliable. I tried other carbs, but always return to this one, you just have to keep the bike running with a blip - old school style 👍
@@CodgerBiker Great, looking forward to your video :-) Im going to read up a little more on oil types in the german forums. I will try re-route the throttle cable, as mine is pinched a bit under the tank. ua-cam.com/video/_NoOdyWH-NE/v-deo.html I just ordered a bunch of new things to get it looking nicer.