Thank you for sharing Mors' videos on your channel. He is the crown jewel of bushcraft and survival communities around the world. I've been studying outdoor living skills for almost thirty years now, and I'm yet to discover another author/instructor/person/fill in the blank who comes even close to him in terms of knowledge and experience. And yet he's so humble, it's humbling for all of us. God bless him. Regards from BC.
My only issue with this sharpening technique, or at least the theory behind it is the stropping "creating so much heat that it re-hardends the edge". Carbon steel blades require around 1400 F to reach critical temp (hardening temp). So unless the apex of the blade is reaching that temperature it is impossible to make the steel harder. I'd also like to say that tempering is usually performed in the 300F-600F temp range on carbon steel blades, which I would guess that the strop is more likely to obtain. So in my thoughts, heating up the blade during stropping will soften the steel way before it hardens it. I heat treat steel as part of my occupation, and through my years of research specifically in carbon steels makes this difficult for me to swallow. I will end with Mors is a legend, and although it is possible for him to be wrong, I doubt it happens often when it comes to outdoor skills, and I appreciate all the work he does! thanks for the video!
My sharpening technique is very similar but I agree with you about the heat issue. The leather strop is soft and "catches" the small bits of metal and removes them and polishes the remaining edge in the process. Also, doing it back and forth essentially bends the metal burr so that it weakens and falls off. Yes, bending metal does cause it to heat up but not enough to harden it, imo. I don't think this has anything to do with hardening due to temp change. I strop my carving knives all the time and never do it fast enough to change the temperature of the steel, yet they are always extremely carving sharp. You get a similar effect with a light touch on an unsewn buffing wheel. Otherwise, a great video!
I have the utmost respect for Mors, having said that, I must admit that this point has had me puzzled for years too. IMHO a coarser grit abrasive that removes more material from the blade should generate more heat, at least in theory. Common stropping compounds having grits equivalent to roughly 1000 used with the amount of pressure normally applied to a blade being stropped shouldn't generate enough friction to create significant temperature rise, let alone enough heat to alter metal structure on a molecular level. I still haven't figured out the exact science behind stropping other than smoother finish and the way it wraps around the edge, but it sure works, and the edge seems to last longer and stay sharper.
Such great respect for this man. Everything he is saying from the strop to how the metal is removed to the pros and cons of a convex grind or micro bevel edge are all so very true. I been studying blade edge technology and hand sharpening for 4 years now and can say this mentor is dead on in what he is saying. Love to meet him one day.
Excellent video, as always! But ... I'm a little confused about heating the blade by stroping and rehardening it? I'am pretty sure that this way you can't achieve higher Rockwell value! With lower temperatures (200-300 celsius) you can only temper the steel and it become softer than before ... For hardening (quenching) blade it is necessary to achieve the critical temperature from about 800 celsius (depending on the steel). I'd like to hear an explanation from someone if I'm wrong.
Thank you so much for sharing the valuable information! I did not know that it is ok to sharpen/hone with dry sharpening stone. Where I am from (Japan), we are taught to soak the sharpening stone under water for a while. Would someone teach me more about this? Sharpen differently because blades are made differently?
It is more that Japaneese waterstones cut better with water lubricating it. they work dry but are fairly "soft" which mean you are more likely to nick the stone and dulling the blade without water. The stone he had looks likely to be an "translucent fine Arkansas hone", they are so hard you can actually cut glass with them, not unlike a carbide glasscutter, that means you are highly unlikely to cut into it or nick it with most knives. only real reason to use water or oil on those types of stones is to keep the pores from clogging, so if many knives are to be sharpened water or oil might be good idea. Hope I helped.
If I was lost in the woods, I would want Mors to be by my side. But I just realized that Mors didn't know as much about knives or sharpening, as many do on UA-cam. Mors knew bushcraft, but sharpening using a stone and leather strop is not the last word.
Get a Arkansas stone! A pocket one in a leather sheath so you can strop on the edge of it. As long as your not te ty ing to create a bevel, then its all you need to go from dull to sharp in a few minutes...all on 1 stone!
I bought a Bear Grylls Gerber survival knife it was not sharp when I purchased it so I decided to buy a knife sharpener when I try to sharpen the knife I just make it dull and blunted than before I bought three different types of knife sharpener and I still cannot make the edge Sharp enough to cut through paper anyway just sharing👍👍
wELL I DID @ LEAST STROP IT BUT NOT WITH THE BELT I'M WEARING......LOL YEA HE'S A GREAT INSTRUCTOR....NOTICE THE SIZE OF HIS HANDS????? DEFINITELY OUTDOORS......
It is interesting to watch someone with a life time of experience in any subject but surprising to hear some of the claims made. The idea that only a single bevel knife can make fine shavings is completely nonsensical. How this kind of claim not only gets made but is accepted is dumbfounding.
+Cliff Stamp Perhaps it is just much easier with the scandi-grind. What do you think about burning the burr off? Also I noticed on your videos you talk a lot about not creating a burr but could you do a video on the best ways to remove it if we accidently create one/ or still decide to create one during the process. It is hard to find any quality info on the subject.
+scottecooke Take a look at traditional whittling knives and look at the fine wood work done with them which have of course common v-bevel grinds. The single bevel grind is one of those fads that is confusing to everyone not in it. You are not burning the burr off by heating the steel as the steel will ignore temperatures which would ignite any strop. It is possible to over fatigue the metal to the point it would crack off, or simply round the apex over completely on the strop. I would cut the burr off directly on the stone if one was created. In general it is best to assume there is some burr anyway and just do standard burr minimization.
+scottecooke I should make one as I have some different ideas on it now than I used to have via some recent experiments with stone. My current view is to end with a very muddy stone to make it happen naturally.
Thank you for sharing Mors' videos on your channel. He is the crown jewel of bushcraft and survival communities around the world. I've been studying outdoor living skills for almost thirty years now, and I'm yet to discover another author/instructor/person/fill in the blank who comes even close to him in terms of knowledge and experience. And yet he's so humble, it's humbling for all of us. God bless him. Regards from BC.
Nothing I like more in my free time learn from Mors&sharpen my knifes
Thank u sir
Thank you so much for this video! I see a lot of people tossing out ideas on this subject, but this looks like the real deal.
- Martin
My only issue with this sharpening technique, or at least the theory behind it is the stropping "creating so much heat that it re-hardends the edge". Carbon steel blades require around 1400 F to reach critical temp (hardening temp). So unless the apex of the blade is reaching that temperature it is impossible to make the steel harder. I'd also like to say that tempering is usually performed in the 300F-600F temp range on carbon steel blades, which I would guess that the strop is more likely to obtain. So in my thoughts, heating up the blade during stropping will soften the steel way before it hardens it. I heat treat steel as part of my occupation, and through my years of research specifically in carbon steels makes this difficult for me to swallow. I will end with Mors is a legend, and although it is possible for him to be wrong, I doubt it happens often when it comes to outdoor skills, and I appreciate all the work he does! thanks for the video!
My sharpening technique is very similar but I agree with you about the heat issue. The leather strop is soft and "catches" the small bits of metal and removes them and polishes the remaining edge in the process. Also, doing it back and forth essentially bends the metal burr so that it weakens and falls off. Yes, bending metal does cause it to heat up but not enough to harden it, imo. I don't think this has anything to do with hardening due to temp change. I strop my carving knives all the time and never do it fast enough to change the temperature of the steel, yet they are always extremely carving sharp. You get a similar effect with a light touch on an unsewn buffing wheel. Otherwise, a great video!
I have the utmost respect for Mors, having said that, I must admit that this point has had me puzzled for years too. IMHO a coarser grit abrasive that removes more material from the blade should generate more heat, at least in theory. Common stropping compounds having grits equivalent to roughly 1000 used with the amount of pressure normally applied to a blade being stropped shouldn't generate enough friction to create significant temperature rise, let alone enough heat to alter metal structure on a molecular level. I still haven't figured out the exact science behind stropping other than smoother finish and the way it wraps around the edge, but it sure works, and the edge seems to last longer and stay sharper.
@@ffoxyff finer grit sand paper creates more heat then a coarse grit
Thank you for the detailed explanation! NOW I actually understand...
Such great respect for this man. Everything he is saying from the strop to how the metal is removed to the pros and cons of a convex grind or micro bevel edge are all so very true. I been studying blade edge technology and hand sharpening for 4 years now and can say this mentor is dead on in what he is saying. Love to meet him one day.
Thanks, Mors. Another great tutorial from a living legend... you are a true wealth of knowledge.
Thanks Mors for another great video! Your in depth knowledge concerning everything bushcraft,is a great asset to us all! Keep up the good work!
This is perfect, very similar to what my grandfather taught me, so thank you for the re-enforcing of applicable knowledge.
whoelse sharpened his knife while watching this video? :D
+Survival Lilly How do you get internet in your super shelter?
I knew I'd see you in the comments of this gentleman's videos eventually
Just watched one of your vids
yep,like when u get hungry watching cooking shows;-)
Hello survival Lilly I am one of your subscribers it's really nice to see you commenting on other people's channels all the best📹🎥
Thanks much for all these videos and the knowledge and wisdom contained within.
It's always good to learn from a true master.
You are the man!! Thank you for such an amazing video! It was very helpful.
very concise tutorial mors your right a lot of people don't know how to sharpen thier knives correctly again very concise will help a lot ..tom
The grandfather of knife sharpening. Its just a pleasure to watch and learn from this guy.
Thank you, that was VERY helpful!
thanks for this great informative video mors!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Excellent video, as always! But ... I'm a little confused about heating the blade by stroping and rehardening it? I'am pretty sure that this way you can't achieve higher Rockwell value! With lower temperatures (200-300 celsius) you can only temper the steel and it become softer than before ... For hardening (quenching) blade it is necessary to achieve the critical temperature from about 800 celsius (depending on the steel).
I'd like to hear an explanation from someone if I'm wrong.
Thank you very much for taking the time to post this Video. I simply can't wait for another one please :)) .
Great video Mors thanks for sharing you knowledge atb John
That look at the end. Like a Boss!
Professional.. that the knowledge I need ,good work keep it up
Thanks Mors!
Awesome Thank you Sir!
Wisdom of time spent. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks a lot.. added to my fav's
:)
Thanks Mors for sharing your knowledge with us all atb stuart
Thank you Mr. Kochanski.
GREAT VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!! THANK YOU...
The mastering of sharpening
I never had a Grandfather and He would have been like this Man if I had !
Thanks so much Mors for sharing your knowledge on youtube, all the best to you and yours and a great xmas time, Taro
You are awesome, thank you
where can I buy your book..
love to get I the mode you're yours .. and get some great ideas. .
thanks for your contribute
on ''Bush craft ''
Have to learn something, but I never have been as good as Mr. KING. OF BUSH CRAFT
Thank you so much for sharing the valuable information!
I did not know that it is ok to sharpen/hone with dry sharpening stone. Where I am from (Japan), we are taught to soak the sharpening stone under water for a while. Would someone teach me more about this? Sharpen differently because blades are made differently?
It is more that Japaneese waterstones cut better with water lubricating it.
they work dry but are fairly "soft" which mean you are more likely to nick the stone and dulling the blade without water.
The stone he had looks likely to be an "translucent fine Arkansas hone", they are so hard you can actually cut glass with them, not unlike a carbide glasscutter, that means you are highly unlikely to cut into it or nick it with most knives.
only real reason to use water or oil on those types of stones is to keep the pores from clogging, so if many knives are to be sharpened water or oil might be good idea.
Hope I helped.
If I was lost in the woods, I would want Mors to be by my side. But I just realized that Mors didn't know as much about knives or sharpening, as many do on UA-cam. Mors knew bushcraft, but sharpening using a stone and leather strop is not the last word.
Thank you for sharing ......
Isn't it better to strop the knife on a hard surface?
This is seriously good advice, i cannot fault anything and learned so much.
He was a real bushmen!
Where's Virtuovice when you need him?
😂
😀
RIP DEAR TEACHER
The legend
Get a Arkansas stone! A pocket one in a leather sheath so you can strop on the edge of it. As long as your not te ty ing to create a bevel, then its all you need to go from dull to sharp in a few minutes...all on 1 stone!
Doesn't too much stroping on leather eventually cause a convex edge. Thanks Mors for your knowledge
Super
Is Mors recommending staying with a Mora Knife ?
they are a great budget knife and for what most people class as a primary knife
fantastic Kochanski, but i do not agree with his explanation of stropping
I bought a Bear Grylls Gerber survival knife it was not sharp when I purchased it so I decided to buy a knife sharpener when I try to sharpen the knife I just make it dull and blunted than before I bought three different types of knife sharpener and I still cannot make the edge Sharp enough to cut through paper anyway just sharing👍👍
If you bought three different types, then the fault is with you. What level are you expecting? I use sandpaper and love the end results.
I use a file & leave a burr turned to the left my blade saws hairs off
the knife gets gull quickly 🤠
I take a lot of metal off at each sharpening.
wELL I DID @ LEAST STROP IT BUT NOT WITH THE BELT I'M WEARING......LOL YEA HE'S A GREAT INSTRUCTOR....NOTICE THE SIZE OF HIS HANDS????? DEFINITELY OUTDOORS......
It is interesting to watch someone with a life time of experience in any subject but surprising to hear some of the claims made. The idea that only a single bevel knife can make fine shavings is completely nonsensical. How this kind of claim not only gets made but is accepted is dumbfounding.
+Cliff Stamp Perhaps it is just much easier with the scandi-grind. What do you think about burning the burr off? Also I noticed on your videos you talk a lot about not creating a burr but could you do a video on the best ways to remove it if we accidently create one/ or still decide to create one during the process. It is hard to find any quality info on the subject.
+Cliff Stamp Indeed. Some of my best "feather stickers" are hollow grind hunting knives with small convex secondary bevels. To each his own, I guess.
+scottecooke Take a look at traditional whittling knives and look at the fine wood work done with them which have of course common v-bevel grinds. The single bevel grind is one of those fads that is confusing to everyone not in it.
You are not burning the burr off by heating the steel as the steel will ignore temperatures which would ignite any strop. It is possible to over fatigue the metal to the point it would crack off, or simply round the apex over completely on the strop.
I would cut the burr off directly on the stone if one was created. In general it is best to assume there is some burr anyway and just do standard burr minimization.
Cliff Stamp Thanks and good points. What videos of yours would you recommend for burr minimization?
+scottecooke I should make one as I have some different ideas on it now than I used to have via some recent experiments with stone. My current view is to end with a very muddy stone to make it happen naturally.
Well I guess I will say I have a lifetime of different sharpening experience.