Great video. I am a new subscriber and catching up. I do have a question about your headers. In 2x4 exterior walls I have always "sandwiched" a sheet of 1/2 osb between whatever 2x lumber I was using for the header. Did you fill that gap with anything? I have never buit with 2x6 exterior walls.
+Darren King I know on 2x4 walls a lot of people do that. It not only strengthens the header, but also flushes it out to the same thickness as the rest of the wall. Since I am doing 2x6 walls there is enough of a gap between the header boards that I can fill them with spray foam to help insulate. With the larger boards I used the 1/2 ply isn't needed for extra strength. Now on my interior 2x4 walls I have some large doorways (8 and 10 feet) so I did use some 1/2 inch plywood between the 2x12 on those.
Hi there... I usually so the plywood position on the wall is horizontally. Is there some reason because you put it vertically please ? Thanks a lot for your video set :-)
How far apart did you set your piers? I'm figuring up mine on paper now. I'd figure probably around 8 foot on center but I'm not sure what the code is down here. I may have to put em closer to 6' on center but I don't know.
That's just because of how the studs fell out. You want the sheathing flush on the corner, and then on the other side it should fall out in the middle of a stud. You will almost always have to trim either the first or the last sheet on a wall.
i can see your stud on 16. no reason that you should trim on both side if at 16. and on the otherside. you could of hook to the exterior and mark your 16.. nice job tho!! and why vertical ^^ no strenght
plywood should always be run horizontal, as for the plywood not falling half on i see most people making this same mistake all the time. when doing your layouts weather it be on walls, floor joist, ceiling joist, or roof rafters always hook your tape on the outside of your plates and measure 15 1/4 then tack a nail at that 15 1/4 mark and run your 16 inch on centers. its not a big deal but saves an extra cut. love watching these videos so many little mistakes, there not a big deal but all the little mistakes just add up more time spent building.
While going back and driving a nail in because the "nail gun" didn't draw the plywood in, keep in mind the stud itself could be warped. If it's warped on one side, it will be warped on the opposite side. If it's in a low traffic room where straight edges (like cabinets, or countertops) are not a concern, then it won't matter much, but just keep that in mind especially in a kitchen or bathroom areas. I promise, you will spend time adding extra grout, or worse....shims between a cabinet and a wall.
Strange that you were running over...Most people complain about running under, because the dimensions of a standard " 1/2" x 4' x 8' sheet of plywood is actually only .438 x 7 7/8"x 6 7/8". Every 4 sheets you lose an inch if you think it's actually " 4x8 ", which is actually what they call the nominal size. Also, BTW it's obviously just my opinion, but it's a lot easier to add a stud than it is to rip a 4x8 sheet of plywood.
Well the reason why they are a tad shorter is because you should be leaving a gap in between each sheet for wood expansion, which counterbalance the one inch loss over 4 sheet making the whole thing pretty perfect. The problem is all the videos people look at tell to space studs 16 inches on center starting from one end of the bottom plate to the other. While this is true for almost all of them, people forget that to have super tight exterior corner, you want to have your sheating to overhang the first stud by the thickness of your sheathing so that when you do the other wall 90 degree from the one you are doing, the sheathing thickness will add on and create a perfect exterior corner. In order to make this work, the first stud after the corner should be spaced to account for this 1/2 inch offset. He had to rip 3/4 on the first sheet because he screwed up the first stud placement from the get go. You should only have to rip the last sheet of a wall if said wall is not perfect multiples of 4 feet. Having to cut the first one shows a stud placement error from the beginning.
i don't think staggering doesn't change much for the exterior wall sheeting. its mostly for lateral loads. (ie making sure the square wall stays square.) for flooring you stagger so it doesn't crack tiles but otherwise the shear strength goes from one sheet to another since its fastened at the edges.
New treated wood is almost always wet, to a degree. The plywood is probably swelled up just a little bit. And eith wet wood, you never leave a gap because it will dry and shrink.
I know it’s a little bit late for this comment and most are referring to what I’m about to say is you are running your plywood like paneling NG , horizontal you wouldn’t have had that problem with the bow between the wood and just wondering why only one inch overlap from your flashing to siding, living dangerously LOL
+AD Homesteading So far it's just been some rain. The next two days we are going to have sever thunder stoms. But I don't think it will be anything to worry about now. I worked tonight and got the whole West wall sheets and a few sheet up on the South wall. So short of a tornado hitting it I think I am good to go now.
Hey how about this...next exterior wall you frame, crown all your studs either in or out. Install your sheathing with nails 6” o.c. Adjust your nail gun for the proper depth, nail from the bottom up and the sheathing will snug up to the studs. By the way, you should have doubled your rim joust where your floor joists intersected perpendicular, thus making it a girder. Go pick up a copy of the IRC and review the chapters on floor framing, the span tables, girders and fastening tables, it will give you great insight into how to do things correctly.
Why did you install the plywood vertically instead of horizontally? I would think it would make things stronger if you install it perpendicular to the studs.
porfidia Nope, the lateral resistance remains the same, west coast usually see it vertically not a problem, I understand mostly installed horizontal in eastern areas, either way same outcome for strong shear diaphragm.
@@ArkansasHomesteader i thought standard was 8 foot, and im confused on something else, which is better to go with, what they call precuts that are 92 and 5/8s or the 96 inch long ones? what is the point of the shorter ones?
feralbigdog 92 5/8 precut added to bottom plate (1 1/2 inches) and double top plates ( 3 inches) equals 97 1/4 inches. Two horizontal sheets of drywall or 1 vertical sheet equals 96 inches. Add 5/8 thick drywall for ceiling and you have 96 5/8 inches. That lets you have 1/2 gap between bottom of drywall and the floor. Remember you don’t want the drywall touching the floor. So that’s the reason for 92 5/8 inch precut studs. If you buy 8 foot studs you will have to cut them all down to 92 5/8 on the job site. If you don’t a vertical sheet or 2 horizontal sheets of drywall is going to be about 3 1/2 inch gap on interior walls requiring you to have to put a extra 3 1/2 inch strip of drywall on every interior wall of house that you drywall
+John Brodt I didn't put that on until I was ready to put on the siding. Building this I my spare time by myself is a VERY slow process and I didn't want the tyvek exposed for that long. Since I was using treaded plywood for sheathing it need the protection right away, but I definitely did put it up.
@@ArkansasHomesteader and "exterior" in title as well - only noted the sheathing as this is something that users may search for and deem your information of use
A concrete slab is probably cheaper, but concrete floors hurt my knees, so ai went with a pier and beam floor. You could finish either subfloor with wood though. But if you are looking for the least expensive route a stained concrete slab is probably it.
@@ArkansasHomesteader I will need to build myself a small cottage one day soon, maybe 1000 to 1200 sq feet, and I will be on a very tight budget. So I’m looking at my options . I have 10 acres to build on. Maybe I can talk with you one day?
@@langstonrowe8243 I will be more than happy to talk with you, but please understand I don't have a construction background. So I am no expert. I just knew pretty well what I wanted. So I researched what was needed to build that. But if you want to chat just send me an email to arkansashomesteader@gmail.com and I will send you my number.
I used 2x12s for the floor joists yes. But thats not always the correct choice. You need to look at a span chart to determine your joist size. Floor load, joist span, joist spacing, and the joist wood species all play a part in the selection.
I don't see any diagonal braces in your exterior walls - or - fire blocking in the studs - - maybe I missed in later vidz, but it will rumble when you close doors... Also, if you're tiling anywhere - in 5-6 years you'll be calling your tile man "grout cracking" - My 20 year tile man says every single time he's been called back to a cracking grout situation - it is 100% always due to the single 3/4" deck (the extra$) is soooo worth it - might want to consider dbl decking within the floor plan now that you have the walls in place (optimum to dbl deck from the start) Bouncy Bounce Bounce, gonna feel a mouse ! Sheathing - vertical? no stagger? NAILS??!! Squeeeeeekkkkk - that mouse will have accompaniment during high winds !!
MJG MJG Fire blocks, where required in code, block two bays over each side of doors rumbling gone. Vertical sheathing is bracing per code also probably in designed plan. Engineers design both vertically and horizontally lateral resistance remains the same. 3/4 or 1 inch t&g deck fine. Tiled areas use Additional substrate, hardy backer etc. The code in your area allows diagonal bracing to resist high wind lateral loads, wow.
Hi, is there any other way I can make contact? I am building a hybrid timber frame home and it's my first attempt. Would love to chat about some of the techniques you use and materials.
2x4 studs are more than strong enough. I went with 2x6 studs simply because of how I want to insulate it. I want to use 2 inches of spray foam on the walls to seal any gaps. Then I will fill the rest of the wall with blown in cellulose. This should give a really high R rating, plus the cellulose is a fire retardant, and if I ever have to run a pipe or wire in the walls I can push it through the cellulose. I am trying to do as much as I can afford to do to keep the utility bills very low. Hopefully, insulating this way, and having a full wrap around porch, and double venting my attic will acomplish this.
It should work both ways summer and winter. I kinda figured that was what your doing just curious. I remember using hangers to help hang walls but 2x4 works just the same ha. Good luck
What happened you stopped making videos on your house? You get to a certain point and all of a sudden you stop!! You made an excuse about your mechanical on your house such as the electrician didn't want you to video called them while they were doing the work. What is up with that? Did you stop making videos on your house???
I am still working on it, I am working on editing one video now, buy there just isn't much to show. I worked under the house today and as I said in the video I won't take my camera under there while working. But as I have content to share I put it, and will continue to do so until we move in. But you have to realize I am not on a time schedule. It gets built as I have the time and money to do so. Which means it's agonizingly slow!
Not telling you what to do! I'm younger but something I taught myself when you are laying out a wall lay it first stud then mark 15-1/4 then start 16 on center off of that and they will always work out on center! That makes up having to rip the plywood down 3/4 inch less!
![Wall OSB Sheathing and Tyvek House Wrap [Build a Workshop]](/img/n.gif)
Looks good man. Thanks for sharing. For someone that doesn’t do this for a living it looks professional!
The wife and I are doing the same thing in Northwest Arkansas, and I wish we'd watched your videos before we started building. ;-) Excellent work.
You are doing a great job
Hello nice video thanks for sharing.saludos
Great video. I am a new subscriber and catching up. I do have a question about your headers. In 2x4 exterior walls I have always "sandwiched" a sheet of 1/2 osb between whatever 2x lumber I was using for the header. Did you fill that gap with anything? I have never buit with 2x6 exterior walls.
+Darren King I know on 2x4 walls a lot of people do that. It not only strengthens the header, but also flushes it out to the same thickness as the rest of the wall. Since I am doing 2x6 walls there is enough of a gap between the header boards that I can fill them with spray foam to help insulate. With the larger boards I used the 1/2 ply isn't needed for extra strength.
Now on my interior 2x4 walls I have some large doorways (8 and 10 feet) so I did use some 1/2 inch plywood between the 2x12 on those.
Hi there... I usually so the plywood position on the wall is horizontally. Is there some reason because you put it vertically please ?
Thanks a lot for your video set :-)
How far apart did you set your piers? I'm figuring up mine on paper now. I'd figure probably around 8 foot on center but I'm not sure what the code is down here. I may have to put em closer to 6' on center but I don't know.
Flip the plywood’s to get more studs on one piece
Why 47 1/4" for the first piece, out of curiosity?
That's just because of how the studs fell out. You want the sheathing flush on the corner, and then on the other side it should fall out in the middle of a stud. You will almost always have to trim either the first or the last sheet on a wall.
i can see your stud on 16. no reason that you should trim on both side if at 16. and on the otherside. you could of hook to the exterior and mark your 16.. nice job tho!! and why vertical ^^ no strenght
I was a bit curious myself...I've never built a structure before, but always thought they went horizontal
plywood should always be run horizontal, as for the plywood not falling half on i see most people making this same mistake all the time. when doing your layouts weather it be on walls, floor joist, ceiling joist, or roof rafters always hook your tape on the outside of your plates and measure 15 1/4 then tack a nail at that 15 1/4 mark and run your 16 inch on centers. its not a big deal but saves an extra cut. love watching these videos so many little mistakes, there not a big deal but all the little mistakes just add up more time spent building.
wrong layout to begin with. set your tape then mark it shy 3/4 of an inch. buy hey, you are going to live in the house YOU built. Awesome!
Wait a min, I remember shear walls needed to connect the top and bottom plates. I’m still amazed by your videos bud
it should.
While going back and driving a nail in because the "nail gun" didn't draw the plywood in, keep in mind the stud itself could be warped. If it's warped on one side, it will be warped on the opposite side. If it's in a low traffic room where straight edges (like cabinets, or countertops) are not a concern, then it won't matter much, but just keep that in mind especially in a kitchen or bathroom areas. I promise, you will spend time adding extra grout, or worse....shims between a cabinet and a wall.
By the way, love watching the work progress. It's a feat and a half to do this on the side, so keep at it! Good job!
Are you building your house with city or county inspections ? Or do you even have to have inspections
Just curious... what do you do for a living?
Hi, nice work you doing. Loving it.
Would just want to know what insulation you used
Strange that you were running over...Most people complain about running under, because the dimensions of a standard " 1/2" x 4' x 8' sheet of plywood is actually only .438 x 7 7/8"x 6 7/8". Every 4 sheets you lose an inch if you think it's actually " 4x8 ", which is actually what they call the nominal size.
Also, BTW it's obviously just my opinion, but it's a lot easier to add a stud than it is to rip a 4x8 sheet of plywood.
Well the reason why they are a tad shorter is because you should be leaving a gap in between each sheet for wood expansion, which counterbalance the one inch loss over 4 sheet making the whole thing pretty perfect. The problem is all the videos people look at tell to space studs 16 inches on center starting from one end of the bottom plate to the other. While this is true for almost all of them, people forget that to have super tight exterior corner, you want to have your sheating to overhang the first stud by the thickness of your sheathing so that when you do the other wall 90 degree from the one you are doing, the sheathing thickness will add on and create a perfect exterior corner. In order to make this work, the first stud after the corner should be spaced to account for this 1/2 inch offset. He had to rip 3/4 on the first sheet because he screwed up the first stud placement from the get go. You should only have to rip the last sheet of a wall if said wall is not perfect multiples of 4 feet. Having to cut the first one shows a stud placement error from the beginning.
You're supposed to stagger your sheathing and run blocking on breaks for sheer and structural purposes..would never fly outhere in Calif..
i don't think staggering doesn't change much for the exterior wall sheeting. its mostly for lateral loads. (ie making sure the square wall stays square.) for flooring you stagger so it doesn't crack tiles but otherwise the shear strength goes from one sheet to another since its fastened at the edges.
New treated wood is almost always wet, to a degree. The plywood is probably swelled up just a little bit. And eith wet wood, you never leave a gap because it will dry and shrink.
I know it’s a little bit late for this comment and most are referring to what I’m about to say is you are running your plywood like paneling NG , horizontal you wouldn’t have had that problem with the bow between the wood and just wondering why only one inch overlap from your flashing to siding, living dangerously LOL
move the stud over...
Thanks for the video. I hope y'all didn't get hit too bad by those storms.
+AD Homesteading So far it's just been some rain. The next two days we are going to have sever thunder stoms. But I don't think it will be anything to worry about now. I worked tonight and got the whole West wall sheets and a few sheet up on the South wall. So short of a tornado hitting it I think I am good to go now.
what made you decide not to stagger the plywood (tetris puzzle) for more structural rigidity?
Can cdx sheathing be used as siding if it's caulked, primed and painted or stained?
Use screws to seat your plywood?
For someone that doesn't do this for a living, you're doing a fantastic job man!
I like the way you talk about your house.
looks like 4x10 foot osb vertically would have gotten you it all in one shot?
What's the average cost off a project like this?
Hey how about this...next exterior wall you frame, crown all your studs either in or out. Install your sheathing with nails 6” o.c. Adjust your nail gun for the proper depth, nail from the bottom up and the sheathing will snug up to the studs. By the way, you should have doubled your rim joust where your floor joists intersected perpendicular, thus making it a girder. Go pick up a copy of the IRC and review the chapters on floor framing, the span tables, girders and fastening tables, it will give you great insight into how to do things correctly.
Good idea using the clamps.
Why did you install the plywood vertically instead of horizontally? I would think it would make things stronger if you install it perpendicular to the studs.
porfidia Nope, the lateral resistance remains the same, west coast usually see it vertically not a problem, I understand mostly installed horizontal in eastern areas, either way same outcome for strong shear diaphragm.
what size nail for the Sheathing ?
wgat size HEADER ? 2x10 for the DOOR ?
i think standard header is 2x10. either 2x for small gaps (like doors) or 3x for larger openings.
What is the length of your 2 x4's. Are your walls going ti be 9 feet tall ?
+J Dewitt They are just standard 9ft studs which measure 104 5/8 inchs.
@@ArkansasHomesteader i thought standard was 8 foot, and im confused on something else, which is better to go with, what they call precuts that are 92 and 5/8s or the 96 inch long ones? what is the point of the shorter ones?
feralbigdog 92 5/8 precut added to bottom plate (1 1/2 inches) and double top plates ( 3 inches) equals 97 1/4 inches.
Two horizontal sheets of drywall or 1 vertical sheet equals 96 inches. Add 5/8 thick drywall for ceiling and you have 96 5/8 inches. That lets you have 1/2 gap between bottom of drywall and the floor. Remember you don’t want the drywall touching the floor. So that’s the reason for 92 5/8 inch precut studs. If you buy 8 foot studs you will have to cut them all down to 92 5/8 on the job site. If you don’t a vertical sheet or 2 horizontal sheets of drywall is going to be about 3 1/2 inch gap on interior walls requiring you to have to put a extra 3 1/2 inch strip of drywall on every interior wall of house that you drywall
Where is the Tyvek paper barrier?
+John Brodt I didn't put that on until I was ready to put on the siding. Building this I my spare time by myself is a VERY slow process and I didn't want the tyvek exposed for that long. Since I was using treaded plywood for sheathing it need the protection right away, but I definitely did put it up.
Awesome to hear that, thank you for the update. !:-)
sheathing not seathing in title
Thanks for the catch!
@@ArkansasHomesteader and "exterior" in title as well - only noted the sheathing as this is something that users may search for and deem your information of use
Not to be a hater, but day laborers aren’t that expensive
here its a pain in the ass to hire someone ( they need creds and you need permit from the builders comission etc... )
treated wall sheathing?
like that 1/2inch sheathing and 2x4 cleat
Thank you
Hello, is the wood floor cheaper than going with a concrete floor?
A concrete slab is probably cheaper, but concrete floors hurt my knees, so ai went with a pier and beam floor. You could finish either subfloor with wood though. But if you are looking for the least expensive route a stained concrete slab is probably it.
@@ArkansasHomesteader I will need to build myself a small cottage one day soon, maybe 1000 to 1200 sq feet, and I will be on a very tight budget. So I’m looking at my options . I have 10 acres to build on. Maybe I can talk with you one day?
@@langstonrowe8243 I will be more than happy to talk with you, but please understand I don't have a construction background. So I am no expert. I just knew pretty well what I wanted. So I researched what was needed to build that. But if you want to chat just send me an email to arkansashomesteader@gmail.com and I will send you my number.
So you frame up with 2x12
I used 2x12s for the floor joists yes. But thats not always the correct choice. You need to look at a span chart to determine your joist size. Floor load, joist span, joist spacing, and the joist wood species all play a part in the selection.
I don't see any diagonal braces in your exterior walls - or - fire blocking in the studs - - maybe I missed in later vidz, but it will rumble when you close doors... Also, if you're tiling anywhere - in 5-6 years you'll be calling your tile man "grout cracking" - My 20 year tile man says every single time he's been called back to a cracking grout situation - it is 100% always due to the single 3/4" deck (the extra$) is soooo worth it - might want to consider dbl decking within the floor plan now that you have the walls in place (optimum to dbl deck from the start) Bouncy Bounce Bounce, gonna feel a mouse ! Sheathing - vertical? no stagger? NAILS??!! Squeeeeeekkkkk - that mouse will have accompaniment during high winds !!
MJG MJG Fire blocks, where required in code, block two bays over each side of doors rumbling gone. Vertical sheathing is bracing per code also probably in designed plan. Engineers design both vertically and horizontally lateral resistance remains the same. 3/4 or 1 inch t&g deck fine. Tiled areas use Additional substrate, hardy backer etc. The code in your area allows diagonal bracing to resist high wind lateral loads, wow.
MJG MJG it’s not normal 3/4 it’s advantec and it’s glued and you’ll have a layer of hardy board for any tile.
Hi, is there any other way I can make contact? I am building a hybrid timber frame home and it's my first attempt. Would love to chat about some of the techniques you use and materials.
+Sean Fenwick
Just send me an email @ arkanashomesteader@gmail.com and I will send you my number.
2x6 stud walls? Are 2x4 stud walls not enough? Just curious I've done walls before but never questioned it until I wanted to make my own homestead.
2x4 studs are more than strong enough. I went with 2x6 studs simply because of how I want to insulate it.
I want to use 2 inches of spray foam on the walls to seal any gaps. Then I will fill the rest of the wall with blown in cellulose. This should give a really high R rating, plus the cellulose is a fire retardant, and if I ever have to run a pipe or wire in the walls I can push it through the cellulose.
I am trying to do as much as I can afford to do to keep the utility bills very low. Hopefully, insulating this way, and having a full wrap around porch, and double venting my attic will acomplish this.
It should work both ways summer and winter. I kinda figured that was what your doing just curious. I remember using hangers to help hang walls but 2x4 works just the same ha. Good luck
better insulation ,ext plumbing such as drains would stick out in a 2x4 wall
why you didn't show from the beginning ?
What happened you stopped making videos on your house? You get to a certain point and all of a sudden you stop!! You made an excuse about your mechanical on your house such as the electrician didn't want you to video called them while they were doing the work. What is up with that? Did you stop making videos on your house???
I am still working on it, I am working on editing one video now, buy there just isn't much to show. I worked under the house today and as I said in the video I won't take my camera under there while working. But as I have content to share I put it, and will continue to do so until we move in. But you have to realize I am not on a time schedule. It gets built as I have the time and money to do so. Which means it's agonizingly slow!
Modern house exterior wall design - Home elevation ideas 2019 catalogue
ua-cam.com/video/f2OV3udCLAI/v-deo.html
Not telling you what to do! I'm younger but something I taught myself when you are laying out a wall lay it first stud then mark 15-1/4 then start 16 on center off of that and they will always work out on center! That makes up having to rip the plywood down 3/4 inch less!