Machining a cylinder block correctly is vital to producing a powerful, reliable long life performance engine. There's more to it than most people realize.
Most of the time you could leave them in place as they usually wear very little. The reason for removing them in most cases is to fully expose the oil galley holes in the cam bearing journals for the most thorough cleaning after acid dipping (to clean) and final washing before assembly. When boring etc. you will have particles of machining swarfe in the oil galleys and the removal of cam bearings ensures you will be able to clean the galleys more thoroughly.
Mock assemble first with crank and bearings. See where your piston is sitting. This gives you an amount to take off each deck to arrive at the final deck height you want. When you are machining you don't need a bearing in place. Just need to register off the main bearing tunnel and start cutting. If you take the right amount off this way you will have correct deck height when you fit bearings, crank/rod/piston assembly back into the block.
This all looks pretty good except for the second process. Correct me if I am wrong but by grinding the mains caps then honing their bore you move the bore deeper into the block changing the split line and clamping the bearing shells off center? Also by only using a hone (Spring loaded and not supported other than the stones) and not a boring bar rigidly supported they may be mostly round and mostly parallel but the bores might not be concentric? Afterwards you still need oversize mains anyway? Another question, what do you use for a radial datum for boring the piston bores as by your statement the decks can be out by quite a bit. The crank main journals will only make it parallel, how do you find the center of the block for both boring and decking? Do you use the cam tunnel? Cheers
Yeah... The Ford is just like the LS... Well apart from having 4 cams instead of 1, oh and 32 valves instead of 16, oh and bucket and shim valve gear instead of pushrods..... Other than that its the same lol...
THE LS WHICH YOU REFER TO AS THE HOLDEN V-8 FROM TOP TO BOTTOM IS A FORD ENGINE. THE GM ENGINEERS COPIED EVERYTHING FROM FORD. NOTHING REMAINS OF THE OLD CHEVY SMALL BLOCK.
Excellent vid. I’m just about to start an LS1 build. Always great to see what the machine shop is about to do to my short block.
Great info! I have read "The Chevrolet Racing Engine" book by Bill Jenkins, but it's good to see that you care about all that prep.
Excellent video, sir! Accurate, informative & thankfully lacking the usual "heavy-metal" soundtrack... ;D
Most of the time you could leave them in place as they usually wear very little. The reason for removing them in most cases is to fully expose the oil galley holes in the cam bearing journals for the most thorough cleaning after acid dipping (to clean) and final washing before assembly. When boring etc. you will have particles of machining swarfe in the oil galleys and the removal of cam bearings ensures you will be able to clean the galleys more thoroughly.
Mock assemble first with crank and bearings. See where your piston is sitting. This gives you an amount to take off each deck to arrive at the final deck height you want. When you are machining you don't need a bearing in place. Just need to register off the main bearing tunnel and start cutting. If you take the right amount off this way you will have correct deck height when you fit bearings, crank/rod/piston assembly back into the block.
Excellent video, thank you so much for this information and breakthrough!
very informative video thank you very much. Great work Shane👍
I liked it i learn very much. in my city there is no workshop like this
VERY GOOG PAL NOT MANY SHOPS FROM SCOTLAND AS GOOD AS U ARE IAM TRAINING MYSELF WELL IN KNOWLEDGE
Why is it you check deck height without rod bearings? Thanks for taking the time to do this video.
Thanks for the info, very good show.
Excellent, very well explained
Your floor are so very clean, how could that happen
This all looks pretty good except for the second process. Correct me if I am wrong but by grinding the mains caps then honing their bore you move the bore deeper into the block changing the split line and clamping the bearing shells off center? Also by only using a hone (Spring loaded and not supported other than the stones) and not a boring bar rigidly supported they may be mostly round and mostly parallel but the bores might not be concentric? Afterwards you still need oversize mains anyway? Another question, what do you use for a radial datum for boring the piston bores as by your statement the decks can be out by quite a bit. The crank main journals will only make it parallel, how do you find the center of the block for both boring and decking? Do you use the cam tunnel?
Cheers
very nice video indeed thank you
just wondering how you could get the right deck hight with out a bearing installed?
they had a 1/2 bearing in the rod and 2 bearings in the crank.
excellent explain so nice
wow this is art
awesome.
Best
Yeah... The Ford is just like the LS... Well apart from having 4 cams instead of 1, oh and 32 valves instead of 16, oh and bucket and shim valve gear instead of pushrods..... Other than that its the same lol...
oh and a bigger heavier engine with no torque curve! dont forget that part!
big500 what wins v8 supercar most not overhead ford shit
I'll put my 2003 ford modular up against any new GM car in a race and not worry much.
10:01!!! Make it durty and DICK it!
THE LS WHICH YOU REFER TO AS THE HOLDEN V-8 FROM TOP TO BOTTOM IS A FORD ENGINE. THE GM ENGINEERS COPIED EVERYTHING FROM FORD. NOTHING REMAINS OF THE OLD CHEVY SMALL BLOCK.