Been working on my 1300 for about 6 weeks and I knew it had to be an electric mis-wiring. I used this video as a guide and got the old girl purring again.
Great video and explanation of how the alternator functions. Helped me troubleshoot the problem within minutes and saved a costly trip to the garage. :)
thank you so much i was tearing my hair and and about ready to give up on my bus i have a type 1 engine in a 1700 bus, turns out the p.o decided to fit an altenator and wired the altenator up wrong and left all the regulator and other wires in place, watching this video coupled with info on the net my bus charges and runs again! thanks so much
If I use an LED light can I just send it from the starter button so it'll be thrown power and then removed right after start is that enough to tickle it on or using an LED light can I just ground the alternator
I have a rail that I just purchased. It has this style of alternator, wired as you say, through the key switch. my light also stays on. I am only getting 12.2 volts out my B+ post, no matter the RPMs. How do I correctly test the alternator and the regulator?
Make sure the indicator light is a bulb style light and not a LED. Also make sure the wire from the dF terminal to the key switch is just cut in half and the indicator spliced back in. It cannot have a seperate ground.
What he is saying, is confusing (Generator / Alt) which one. But normally, there is enough magnetism in the rotor to turn on. But, if a "Y-Connect" Stator, the common junction between all three legs is ground when off or not working. So, a wire comes to the dash light, to the key on. Crank, starts, let loose and springs to run or key on. At this point, the alternator "Y-connection) is B+ and key on is B+, this make light go off. No ground. Turn key off, engine dies, alt quits working, "Y-Connect" goes to ground and light comes on. Turn key to acc or lock, no power, bulb goes out, no drain. Works normally. I would check their wiring schematic to double check correct wiring for year as alternator, generator or "Y-Connect" stator and key switch functions. It could be done with test light, I use a digital multimeter for testing. DK, ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.
Jim, A couple of quick questions. If I connect the tickler wire on the ACC terminal, that wiil have power after I turn the key one click to the right (Clockwise). Once I hit the Start, the power is turned while in the start position and then power will return. A light will not keep the light from the power from coming back. So I do not understand how the power is turn of after the engine start. If there is a diagram that would be helpfull.
Thank you for the valuable video. Just a simple question after many years. If someone still checking the comments please let me know what happend if the system has Broken green wire or blown bulb? Does it effect to the charging system?
Yes it would. The dF wire acts as a diode of sorts so it doesn't back feed power into the alternator to build a field. You want a bulb style indicator inline on that wire. The light will go out when it is properly charging and will stay on if it isn't. Do not ground the light, only splice the dF back together with the indicator
@@AppletreeAuto so it means if the broken Green wire and the blown bulb may cause for not charging problem.. ok the other thing is what kind of bulb should be in the system? Any special type or number?
Help, B+ to the starter/battery cable, excite wire to fuse box off acc wire from switch. Light does not go off, no output from alt. This is a new alternator. ideas?
Make sure 1) the indicator light is not a LED 2) Make sure the indicator light is spliced inline with the dF wire and does not have any ground going to it. Basically cut the wire in half and reconnect it using the light. Acc on switch typically loses power while the engine is cranking to start.
Hello Appletree, I got a 1972 beetle and have some problems with my alternator wiring. Before i took the engine out everything did work. But after installing a new engine with also a alternator it won't charge anymore. The alternator was rebuild and tested on a bench. But the indicator light in the car says its not charging, and with my multimeter on the alternator itself it says 12.14 V, that's not enough. So whats wrong? Is there another fuse in the car? Will it be something with the green wire from the indicator light? Does this wire activate the regulator inside the alternator? Any ideas? Please help me out! Thanks
The charge warning lamp is connected to the 15 wire via the fusebox. Changes have occurred over the years before some rationalization in the 70's. Fuses 11 and 12 were used on the Bay Window Transporters. The 15 labelled wire running back to the coil was looped in here connecting via a busbar serving fuses 11 and 12. The accessory terminal the person is talking about is equivalent to the X circuit fitted from 1970 onwards serving fuse 10 on most Bay Window Transporters. This circuit does actually cut out when turning the engine over on the starter motor when terminals 30 battery, 15 coil /fusebox and 50 starter motor solenoid would be connected together by the ignition switch. The ignition switch will then connect terminals 30, 15 and the X terminals on the release of the key.
OK. I have looked at various wiring diagrams and I wired the "tickle lamp" to the #50 on my VW switch. The light stays on when the engine is running. I checked the B+ terminal and I am getting 14 volts coming out to the battery. You say the pilot lamp should go out?
Reconnect to the 15 terminal via an 8A fuse. You will find that the charge warning light, oil pressure warning, and on later post 68 models the dual circuit brake warning light is wired via the fusebox to the 15 wire running from the ignition switch to the coil. The wire is looped in to 2 fuses on a busbar then runs back to the coil.
That is what he's saying and that's absolutely true. On a air-cooled VW, wired the way he describes, if the alternator warning light is burned out (passes zero current) then the alternator will not work. On some other or more modern cars, there may be a bypass resistor that also lets current past the warning light to excite the alternator even if the light is out. But if the only path for alternator excitation current is through the warning bulb and the bulb is burned out, the alternator will not function.
@@runifuceeme406 If you can do it better, please do. I will share your how to videos instead of doing them ourselves. Let me know when they are ready to share please
Been working on my 1300 for about 6 weeks and I knew it had to be an electric mis-wiring. I used this video as a guide and got the old girl purring again.
Great video and explanation of how the alternator functions. Helped me troubleshoot the problem within minutes and saved a costly trip to the garage. :)
This video saved me a lot of headache thanks.
thank you so much i was tearing my hair and and about ready to give up on my bus i have a type 1 engine in a 1700 bus, turns out the p.o decided to fit an altenator and wired the altenator up wrong and left all the regulator and other wires in place, watching this video coupled with info on the net my bus charges and runs again! thanks so much
I still refer back to this video often 🤣 good video 👍
Most informative video I've seen yet about this topic! 💪
Nice video n good simply explanation of wiring up an alternator
Great information. Already have alternator, but will look to you for future purchases for 69 beetle. Thanks,
Thank you for your kind information
Man you just save me!!!! Thanx
Thank you! thank you 🙏
If I use an LED light can I just send it from the starter button so it'll be thrown power and then removed right after start is that enough to tickle it on or using an LED light can I just ground the alternator
don't use LED, needs to be bulb style
Thank Uu, Great Video That Explained What I Needed To Rewire...
My question is I have my coil ran to on of switch and starter ran off a push button so how do I wire the light
I have a rail that I just purchased. It has this style of alternator, wired as you say, through the key switch. my light also stays on.
I am only getting 12.2 volts out my B+ post, no matter the RPMs. How do I correctly test the alternator and the regulator?
Make sure the indicator light is a bulb style light and not a LED. Also make sure the wire from the dF terminal to the key switch is just cut in half and the indicator spliced back in. It cannot have a seperate ground.
So it's like a Ford alternator with an exciter wire ? So that the alternator can measure voltage and charge as needed?
What he is saying, is confusing (Generator / Alt) which one. But normally, there is enough magnetism in the rotor to turn on. But, if a "Y-Connect" Stator, the common junction between all three legs is ground when off or not working. So, a wire comes to the dash light, to the key on. Crank, starts, let loose and springs to run or key on. At this point, the alternator "Y-connection) is B+ and key on is B+, this make light go off. No ground. Turn key off, engine dies, alt quits working, "Y-Connect" goes to ground and light comes on. Turn key to acc or lock, no power, bulb goes out, no drain. Works normally.
I would check their wiring schematic to double check correct wiring for year as alternator, generator or "Y-Connect" stator and key switch functions. It could be done with test light, I use a digital multimeter for testing.
DK, ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.
Hi yes I agree it's like a Ford old Ford and I was using an LED so my LED was on all the time did you figure out the problem
Jim, A couple of quick questions. If I connect the tickler wire on the ACC terminal, that wiil have power after I turn the key one click to the right (Clockwise). Once I hit the Start, the power is turned while in the start position and then power will return. A light will not keep the light from the power from coming back. So I do not understand how the power is turn of after the engine start. If there is a diagram that would be helpfull.
Thank you for the valuable video. Just a simple question after many years. If someone still checking the comments please let me know what happend if the system has Broken green wire or blown bulb? Does it effect to the charging system?
Yes it would. The dF wire acts as a diode of sorts so it doesn't back feed power into the alternator to build a field. You want a bulb style indicator inline on that wire. The light will go out when it is properly charging and will stay on if it isn't. Do not ground the light, only splice the dF back together with the indicator
@@AppletreeAuto so it means if the broken
Green wire and the blown bulb may cause for not charging problem.. ok the other thing is what kind of bulb should be in the system? Any special type or number?
@@DayanEngineeringWorks yes that is correct. Bulb style light is needed. NO LED
yeah ! just stopped the video while i went to buy switch from you on ebay. Thanks TTJ
could I run the D+ off of the push button start on my trike
got mine working. Thanks
Help, B+ to the starter/battery cable, excite wire to fuse box off acc wire from switch. Light does not go off, no output from alt. This is a new alternator. ideas?
Make sure 1) the indicator light is not a LED 2) Make sure the indicator light is spliced inline with the dF wire and does not have any ground going to it. Basically cut the wire in half and reconnect it using the light. Acc on switch typically loses power while the engine is cranking to start.
Hello Appletree,
I got a 1972 beetle and have some problems with my alternator wiring.
Before i took the engine out everything did work.
But after installing a new engine with also a alternator it won't charge anymore.
The alternator was rebuild and tested on a bench.
But the indicator light in the car says its not charging, and with my multimeter on the alternator itself it says 12.14 V, that's not enough.
So whats wrong? Is there another fuse in the car?
Will it be something with the green wire from the indicator light?
Does this wire activate the regulator inside the alternator?
Any ideas? Please help me out!
Thanks
daalhoffarm did you ever figure it out I’m having the Exact same issue right now
The charge warning lamp is connected to the 15 wire via the fusebox. Changes have occurred over the years before some rationalization in the 70's. Fuses 11 and 12 were used on the Bay Window Transporters. The 15 labelled wire running back to the coil was looped in here connecting via a busbar serving fuses 11 and 12. The accessory terminal the person is talking about is equivalent to the X circuit fitted from 1970 onwards serving fuse 10 on most Bay Window Transporters. This circuit does actually cut out when turning the engine over on the starter motor when terminals 30 battery, 15 coil /fusebox and 50 starter motor solenoid would be connected together by the ignition switch. The ignition switch will then connect terminals 30, 15 and the X terminals on the release of the key.
does alt need to be grounded or have ground cable to it.? I have MST alt stand is aluminum, not a good condutor.
My house was wired with aluminum wiring. Where do you guys get this stuff?
hey apple tree should I install a ground wire on my new altenator and is it ok to jus run it to the shroud? thnx fellas
Rob Dye no it will not need one
Will it work with LED indicator light???
no, the LED doesn't have enough resistance.
yes led will work. if the light stays on .you need a good ground to alternator
how can I tell if I got a V.w. alternator or generator
I have a push button on my bug, would i run this to the back of the toggle on the switched end that also feeds the push button?
you can run your dF wire to any switch that removes power. Also be sure to have the light inline
OK. I have looked at various wiring diagrams and I wired the "tickle lamp" to the #50 on my VW switch. The light stays on when the engine is running. I checked the B+ terminal and I am getting 14 volts coming out to the battery. You say the pilot lamp should go out?
my light stays on to.how do i got it off.do i ground alternartor.
If the light is on and the engine is running, the alternator is not working right.
Reconnect to the 15 terminal via an 8A fuse. You will find that the charge warning light, oil pressure warning, and on later post 68 models the dual circuit brake warning light is wired via the fusebox to the 15 wire running from the ignition switch to the coil. The wire is looped in to 2 fuses on a busbar then runs back to the coil.
GoodbJob
This is useless..
What makes it useless?
So what you are saying, if the idiot light bulb ever burns out, the alternator will not charge the battery. I call bologna on that!
That is what he's saying and that's absolutely true. On a air-cooled VW, wired the way he describes, if the alternator warning light is burned out (passes zero current) then the alternator will not work.
On some other or more modern cars, there may be a bypass resistor that also lets current past the warning light to excite the alternator even if the light is out. But if the only path for alternator excitation current is through the warning bulb and the bulb is burned out, the alternator will not function.
I don’t buy that. They wouldn’t engineer a charging system that would fail because of a light bulb.
@@Mr572u Buy one and try it and let us know.
THIS GUY HAS A PROBLEM LOOKING AT THE CAMERA/AUDIENCE!
This guy isn't a paid actor, he is a parts salesman. Be happy the instruction is there. If you need eye contact get a dog.
@@AppletreeAuto Soo, he doesn't look at customers?.. Maybe y'all would be better with dogs as salesmen!.. 🙄🤦🏾♂️🤣
@@runifuceeme406 If you can do it better, please do. I will share your how to videos instead of doing them ourselves. Let me know when they are ready to share please
Awesome explanation on the Green wire