Hi Peter , I had a 1996 Toyota Tacoma 4 WD , I put 250,000 miles before I sold it . It was a good truck that very reliable. I liked the 2.7 liter engine with 4 speed auto. I regret selling it. Take care and have a good day . Very little trouble with truck.
You can often remove 99.9% of some dents using those cheap plastic and rubber suction cup dent pullers from Amazon. Get a big one, and little one. Clean off the dirt and lock on the appropriate one. Then pull the thing off. Try pulling all around the dent, even going around the edges beyond the dent itself, to see what happens. It will seldom look perfect, but it will often look a lot better. Peter could offer a free dent remediation service to some of those folks. And 2 suction cups being pulled might be better than only one. That white stuff on those terminals is aluminum oxide caused by the hot spark melting a microscopic layer of aluminum as the spark jumps the gap. Oxygen in the air, combines with the molten aluminum to make white aluminum oxide. Every shinny piece of aluminum you have ever seen has a very thin layer of that aluminum oxide covering it. That oxide layer is very nearly the same size as the metal below, which is why aluminum normally doesn't corrode very fast. The inert aluminum oxide layer protects the metal underneath from further corrosion. Steel keeps rusting because the oxide (rust) is larger than the metal. It just keeps flaking off, exposing fresh steel to the oxygen in the air or water. Rusting (oxidation) continues until all the steel is eventually consumed. Adding some nickel and chromium to steel will allow a protective layer of oxide to form on the steel which is not much larger than the metal below. That is called stainless steel. Too bad nickel and chromium are rather rare, at least when compared to iron or aluminum.
Was this a successful fix long term? I have a 1996 2wd Tacoma w the 2.4 engine, 320,000 miles. The engine sounds great, doesn't even use much oil really. A few months ago it began to bog down when accelerating. I cleaned the MAF, replaced the plugs, replaced the fuel filter, which is a hassle on the 2.4. No change. Still had the issue. Then I changed the plug wires, and it ran without bogging. It only now did it occasionally when the fuel tank got to about 1/4 or so. Previous owner replaced the fuel pump- he said it had a problem w the ground for the fuel pump that it took him a while to figure out. So the fuel pump is less than a year old, not sure what brand he used. Today it started bogging down during acceleration again. Some of the Tacoma forums said they'd had similar issues and fixed by replacing the distributor, which led me to your video. I just took off the distributor cap, and guess what- that same metal piece in the video was bashed in on mine too. Thanks to your video, I used a screwdriver to push it back out to where it belonged. Since the problem is intermittent, I'm not 100% sure if this was what caused the bogging issue. Kind of weird both of these 96 Tacomas had a bashed in metal clip in the distributor, although 26 years and 320,000 miles of constantly making contact probably amounts to a lot of little pushes to bend it out of shape. Not sure if you read these comments, but I'd be curious if the truck is still running well after a few months passed. If so, I'll bet some of those guys who replaced the whole distributor could have saved themselves a lot of money by doing the bend it out thing.
@@raheemrussell5346 It was continuing to bog down, got to the point it did it even w half a tank of gas. It started bogging about 15 miles from home, and I was nursing it along hoping to make it back, and noticed I was getting full power for a while if I shut off the engine. My guess was the fuel pump feed tube or the sock was getting clogged, and shutting it off let the particles clogging it float away since there was no more vacuum. It couldn't be the fuel filter since I'd just changed it. I ordered a new Bosch fuel pump and sock and dropped the tank. It was like rust soup, the old sock had polka dots of rust blobs on it everywhere it was drawing into the fuel pump, so it was pretty clear that was the issue. Previous owner claimed to have put in a new fuel pump- if so, he ignored all the inner tank rust. Anyhow, I cleaned it out w soap and water- lots of rust crud- and scrubbed it with steel wool, then soaked it w vinegar and rinsed it out real good. Optimally it would have been nice to have coated the tank internally, but drying time is 4-5 days, and I couldn't be without the truck for that long. A few months and a few thousand miles later w the new pump/pump sock and clean fuel tank and the truck has run well, no problems. If you're having issues, I'd replace the fuel filter first. It's kind of a pain in the ass on the 2.4, but easier than replacing the fuel pump, and only costs $11, versus $90 for a Denso or Bosch fuel pump. If a fuel filter doesn't solve the issue, it's probably the fuel pump, and possibly some rust within the tank.
8:30 The 1995 2.7L I-4 only has one main ignition coil with simple spark plug wire caps. It looks like this design stopped after 1997 in the 4-cylinder engine.
I had a distributor failure and fixed it with a cheap amazon distributor $150.00 . The coil burned the cap and melted the rotor which took a couple more weeks and a break down to diagnose 200,000 miles
Petr, Thanks for distributing your knowledge of this vintage ignition system ;-)
Hi Peter , I had a 1996 Toyota Tacoma 4 WD , I put 250,000 miles before I sold it . It was a good truck that very reliable. I liked the 2.7 liter engine with 4 speed auto. I regret selling it. Take care and have a good day . Very little trouble with truck.
You can often remove 99.9% of some dents using those cheap plastic and rubber suction cup dent pullers from Amazon. Get a big one, and little one. Clean off the dirt and lock on the appropriate one. Then pull the thing off. Try pulling all around the dent, even going around the edges beyond the dent itself, to see what happens. It will seldom look perfect, but it will often look a lot better. Peter could offer a free dent remediation service to some of those folks. And 2 suction cups being pulled might be better than only one.
That white stuff on those terminals is aluminum oxide caused by the hot spark melting a microscopic layer of aluminum as the spark jumps the gap. Oxygen in the air, combines with the molten aluminum to make white aluminum oxide. Every shinny piece of aluminum you have ever seen has a very thin layer of that aluminum oxide covering it. That oxide layer is very nearly the same size as the metal below, which is why aluminum normally doesn't corrode very fast. The inert aluminum oxide layer protects the metal underneath from further corrosion. Steel keeps rusting because the oxide (rust) is larger than the metal. It just keeps flaking off, exposing fresh steel to the oxygen in the air or water. Rusting (oxidation) continues until all the steel is eventually consumed. Adding some nickel and chromium to steel will allow a protective layer of oxide to form on the steel which is not much larger than the metal below. That is called stainless steel. Too bad nickel and chromium are rather rare, at least when compared to iron or aluminum.
i learn so much from your videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you Peter.
Good catch, it pays to take a breath and look at the big picture.
Thanks for the video!
Was this a successful fix long term? I have a 1996 2wd Tacoma w the 2.4 engine, 320,000 miles. The engine sounds great, doesn't even use much oil really. A few months ago it began to bog down when accelerating. I cleaned the MAF, replaced the plugs, replaced the fuel filter, which is a hassle on the 2.4. No change. Still had the issue. Then I changed the plug wires, and it ran without bogging. It only now did it occasionally when the fuel tank got to about 1/4 or so. Previous owner replaced the fuel pump- he said it had a problem w the ground for the fuel pump that it took him a while to figure out. So the fuel pump is less than a year old, not sure what brand he used. Today it started bogging down during acceleration again. Some of the Tacoma forums said they'd had similar issues and fixed by replacing the distributor, which led me to your video. I just took off the distributor cap, and guess what- that same metal piece in the video was bashed in on mine too. Thanks to your video, I used a screwdriver to push it back out to where it belonged. Since the problem is intermittent, I'm not 100% sure if this was what caused the bogging issue. Kind of weird both of these 96 Tacomas had a bashed in metal clip in the distributor, although 26 years and 320,000 miles of constantly making contact probably amounts to a lot of little pushes to bend it out of shape. Not sure if you read these comments, but I'd be curious if the truck is still running well after a few months passed. If so, I'll bet some of those guys who replaced the whole distributor could have saved themselves a lot of money by doing the bend it out thing.
how is your vehicle running after doing the bending?
@@raheemrussell5346 It was continuing to bog down, got to the point it did it even w half a tank of gas. It started bogging about 15 miles from home, and I was nursing it along hoping to make it back, and noticed I was getting full power for a while if I shut off the engine. My guess was the fuel pump feed tube or the sock was getting clogged, and shutting it off let the particles clogging it float away since there was no more vacuum. It couldn't be the fuel filter since I'd just changed it. I ordered a new Bosch fuel pump and sock and dropped the tank. It was like rust soup, the old sock had polka dots of rust blobs on it everywhere it was drawing into the fuel pump, so it was pretty clear that was the issue. Previous owner claimed to have put in a new fuel pump- if so, he ignored all the inner tank rust. Anyhow, I cleaned it out w soap and water- lots of rust crud- and scrubbed it with steel wool, then soaked it w vinegar and rinsed it out real good. Optimally it would have been nice to have coated the tank internally, but drying time is 4-5 days, and I couldn't be without the truck for that long. A few months and a few thousand miles later w the new pump/pump sock and clean fuel tank and the truck has run well, no problems.
If you're having issues, I'd replace the fuel filter first. It's kind of a pain in the ass on the 2.4, but easier than replacing the fuel pump, and only costs $11, versus $90 for a Denso or Bosch fuel pump. If a fuel filter doesn't solve the issue, it's probably the fuel pump, and possibly some rust within the tank.
Glad this worked out for you.
8:30 The 1995 2.7L I-4 only has one main ignition coil with simple spark plug wire caps. It looks like this design stopped after 1997 in the 4-cylinder engine.
PCV valve, throttle body cleaning intake gaskets brake fluid flush vacuum hoses May sensor differential and tranny oil spark plug wires etc etc
Only thing I can thinkk of, maybe when replacing a water pump or similar, a wrench slipped and did the damage?
I need your help, no Check Engine light on my 3rz Toyota surf but it Cranks and Everything else is working.
I had a distributor failure and fixed it with a cheap amazon distributor $150.00 . The coil burned the cap and melted the rotor which took a couple more weeks and a break down to diagnose 200,000 miles
Great engines.
❤❤❤
Look s good for a 95 thanks for video
Im not sure what year they switched to COP but I wanna say 2001 with the facelift.
My 2000 Tacoma has the coil-packs
My 2000 4runner with the 3rz doesn't have coil on plug.
Who's the best? Peter is.
I have this engine on a 1997 Tacoma I don't think mine has a distributor
Nice ... but it's a he!
It’s 3rz- FE as stated. I have the exact same truck.