Це відео не доступне.
Перепрошуємо.
5 Worthy Trailer Upgrades
Вставка
- Опубліковано 11 лис 2022
- These are just five upgrades I think are useful. There's another that didn't make the list because I hadn't done it yet, but these should enhance the safety and utility of nearly any trailer. The WeighSafe is a bit pricey, but still less money than say a B&W hitch and I think it's more useful. Let me know if you have other upgrades you'd recommend in the comments.
Thanks this was very helpful. I have small trailer and those items you mentioned are need on my trialer. Thanks
Yep, it's funny, trailers are like tractors, as much as the manufacturers put on them, it's never enough, which is probably why the aftermarket is so full of extras. But to me, it's odd that they don't automatically come with tie-down points. In fact, that's another issue with tractors, you usually have to add them too. Thanks for watching.
One more upgrade I would highly recommend is when your 2 x 6’s get bad and need to replace them. Do not put 2x6 lumber back on your trailer. Instead get waterproof plywood and put it on your trailer. It much stronger and more stable. It will not twist or split nor swell or shrink like lumber does! It will outlast your 2x6 lumber by literally decades longer!
Waterproof plywood I bought actually had plastic laminate glued on the face of the plywood and another type material glued to the back side to protect the plywood more. I bought 3/4” plywood and since my deck was larger then 4’x8’, I spliced the next piece of plywood on the trailer to fill the width with the plywood. After I got the first layer of plywood down with the plastic laminate facing down under the trailer. I off set the next layer of plywood so the seams weren’t in the same area and this time second layer the plastic laminate was face up. After both your plywood layers are down it’s the same 1 1/2” thick just like your original 2x6 lumber would be!
Gives you a really super nice floor and you can slide a shovel across the surface if you’re hauling dirt or other materials like wood chips!
Unless you really abuse this flooring, it’s going to stay smooth and you’ll never have any kind of splinters to deal with plywood will only swell or shrink 1/16” of a inch, unlike lumber that can swell or shrink up to a 1/4” of a inch and that’s why you need the gap between your lumber boards to give clearance between swelling boards! Won’t have those issues with plywood!
I actually put regular plywood on a trailer some 30 years ago and finished it with exterior finish. It held up 20 years before I ever had to replace it. The waterproof plywood will last much longer, especially with the plastic Laminate on the surface of the plywood!
Once you try it, you’ll never go back to using 2x6 lumber again!
Is it just called “waterproof plywood” or what do I ask for when I go to buy it? What should I coat it in? Primer and a sprinkle of sand so it’s a little grippier? Or maybe stops or rubber instead of sand paint so it can still be smooth when needed.
@@asroneightyseven3854 I didn’t put anything on the surface of my flooring, whatever I haul on my trailer including my tractor and accessories. The hauling straps holds everything in place where nothing moves. But if you wanted to make a rough surface, you would want to probably use a belt sander with at least 80 grit sanding belts to rough up the plastic laminate to get what you’re going to coat the surface with to stick.
I’m a contractor and have had many plastic laminate countertops I have recovered with new plastic laminate with contact cement and I always presand the old laminate first before putting on the contact cement to the surface of the old laminate and a coat of contact cement to the new laminate as well. Never had any problems with the glue sticking after it’s been roughed up with sand paper!
Same should work with whatever coating you want to put on the laminate? If you wanted to you could even put on the coating often used for the beds of trucks or sometimes used in Jeep’s that’s very durable and holds up a long time from what I have heard. Of course brands may vary how well it lasts too? I bought mine at a wood supplier in woodland, Washington. I believe the name of the business is Woodland wood connection 119 Goering St. woodland,Washington 98674
360-841-8126
They have different thicknesses of the waterproof material with the laminate plastic covering on it. Tell them what you want and they’ll know what you’re looking for! Hopefully you’re in my area?
#1 Wire up some LED work lights with a switch off your 7 pin. #2 Use Rustoleum Garage Floor Epoxy and throw some sand over the drying paint to add floor grip and protect the decking. #3 Add some vertical canes with an Amber LED at the top so you know where the back of your trailer is when backing at night time. #3 Spare Tire Mount on driver side of trailer in front of the fender. #4 Maybe a spare spring set in case you overload it and break the spring. #5 Bottle Jack in the Toolbox.
I do have a jack in the truck, but a spare bottle jack isn't a bad idea. Why the spare relocate? Just curious. I like all the other ideas. I did solid stain my new trailer, as I have sold both of these. And I had considered the sand thing before, but brave enough to think I could distribute it evenly enough to make it work though😂. I really like idea # 1and 3. Thanks for watching.
The DOT reflective tape was a good idea. Love the stake pocket D-rings. I need to put that on MY list. I like the storage box idea also. Good install.
I did sell both of those to try to "downsize" my trailer situation. Already I installed the reflective tape and it came custom with the d-rings. I am still working on a new tool box solution as the spare tire is now in the rough location. I appreciate the kind words and thanks for watching.
First upgrade to consider if you have a landscape trailer with a 6 foot rear drop gate,, A spring assist lift such as a Gorilla Lift, etc... Once installed, you WILL curse dealing with any trailer that does not have one. They are usually less than $200 and your back will forever thank you!!!
Robert, I agree 100%, that was one upgrade I'm wanting to do and even thought about delaying this video until I had it done. Yes, I am so tried of dealing with that huge gate. What I'd really like is spring loaded sliding ramps, but I'm not in heaven yet and they generally don't exist on smaller trailers like this. That is my next upgrade for sure, I'm really surprised you are the first to mention it. Thanks for watching.
18” chain extenders with grab hooks are handy .
Pear shape rings for 2” wire hook end ratchet straps .
3” delta rings for 2” flat hook end ratchet straps .
Brophy portable 2” ratchet strap winches .
Mount a few stake pockets in center of the trailer onto a crossmember . Rub rails and stale pockets front and rear of trailer bed . A few suggestions that work well . 12/22
Vic, thanks for the ideas, I appreciate it. Also, thanks for watching.
Spring loaded tailgate lift by Gorilla Lift is a real back saver for 200.00 and fits virtually any utility trailer.
Yep, I agree, very possible it will make it on the new trailer. Thanks for watching.
Heck... if I knew you were in the market for a harbor fright tongue box I could have worked a great deal with you for a nearly free unit. They do a respectable job of keeping what's inside out of the rain if the trailer is sitting still, but put it in motion on the interstate and you'll find that the absence of lid gaskets make a great path for water into the box!!
That is good to know, I did sell that one...the trailer but I'm having another built and would likely get the same tool box if it fits correctly. But I guess I'll plan on some level of weather stripping to prevent those issues. Thanks for the heads up and also watching Mike.
Add work lights. The bed lights and tractor lights aren't always the best.
I used a set of bed lights mounted under my trailer rails.
That would make trailers more useful for sure. I have had to use them as a work bench from time to time before. Thanks for watching.
I dont like those d rings that go in the stake pockets. Just weld or bolt d rings directly to the trailer, or use the stake pockets with chains as they were intended. If you put chain through pocket and hook on top then they wont fall off even if loose. You should always secure the load in a way that even if the securement loosens up it will not become unhooked on either end.
That is true, they do have ratchet straps that will attach directly to the stake pockets themselves doiing away with the d-ring shackles. They also make them with the ratcheting systems already included as well. Thanks for your opinion and watching.
You do not have to like them. It is his trailer. He can put his d rings where he wants them.
Yep, to each his own. I added the stake pockets in several locations so I could move around the D-rings and not have to but so many. It already had several d-rings, but still needed a few more, as I demonstrated. Thanks for watching T.L.
Yes and when it comes to securing equipment you should use at least grade 70 chain and binders, not straps.
@@preachers4135 Yep, I understand that straps are inferior to chains and binders, but I have quality American made straps and even the cheap Chinese made binders and chains are out of this world priced and considering I haul a 1 series John Deere, I just don't think it's as important. Also, I connect at all four corners, so there is some redundancy.
I had a similar keying system for a hitch a long time ago, I left it in my truck all the time cause I hauled all the time. The locking system eventually got corrosion inside of it and I had to cut it off, just an FYI.
Yeah, I will certainly monitor that for sure. It does have a rubber cover over each keyed section, but still, corrosion can still sep in. I do however, seem to take the receiver out every now and then and I will often adjust the height of the ball, so maybe that will keep me on my toes. Thanks for watching.
I like that you can put tail gate down
Yes, that was a huge help. I actually got rid of that trailer and got another, but it also can have the tailgate down when trailer is attached. It does make it much easier for sure. Thanks for watching.
Where to start?
Trailer jack take it apart (rusts here so prevent it) and put Grease on the threads, that will prevent/extend the time when it doesn't work.
The carriage bolts are likely less then gr 5 I would have got used NF gr 8 3/8" bolts. Yes it is sheer which is being worked against but still.
The home build trailer I bought I added 3/8"X3"flat bar made slots into the tube to weld both sides of the tube with some 1/2" some 5'8" eye bolt for ankerage points. Depending on what was going to be done at that place. Never had a problem.
The big one is (wiring !!!!!!!!! ) as those poor grade blue wire splices will corrode and fail. At the wrong time.
I ran mine into two boxes on the frame which I put on for splices. Splicing was solder/ RTV heat shrinks was my design from 40 yrs ago. Never had a bad one yet.
The round 4 wire or 7 wire main wire is WELL Worth it.That flat stuff is JUNK! Had it fail within a yr and a half cracked/shorted!!!!!!!!!!
FYI LED lights are designed to destroy your eyes. go learn about it
My plug in cracks every number of years remove it full it with more Vaseline no bad connections for those years, oh solder the ends of the wires good to go!
The trailer was designed to pivot at the center for loading , which was too light of material so I used 3/8" flat bar drilled the hole for pivot and four holes into the sides of the tube two for 1/4X20"s for securing the flat bar to the sides the other two for welding to the tube. Much better design.
Edward, thanks for your insights on how to improve these additional things, I appreciate the feedback and thanks for watching.
How about putting wood sealer/water proofer on your deck. That would be an excellent upgrade!
Although the trailer does stay out of the weather most of the time, I did see another guy do that and thought I might as well. I actually got rid of both of those trailers last week and have a new custom one being built, so with brand new wood, I think I will execute that idea. Thanks for watching.
Always make sure u keep the Jack all the way up, u could get hung up on a dip otherwise
Yes agree 100%, that is why the telescoping jack is so useful, it allows that to happen quickly and saves effort as well. Thanks for watching.
Good job man
Thanks for watching.
Good ideas for sure for the lighter trailers. Buts lets get into the real issues on reliability and safe hauling. First, electric over hydraulic brakes are a must, electric brakes suck. We have to replace electric brakes every year. Tires: put those 16 inch 10 plys on your daughter's pickup, go get some 14 ply trailer tires. We use 17.5 lo pro, same bolt pattern more deck clearance and better load capacity. Suspension: when you replace the springs, just get heavier springs. Better to do it now than on the side of the interstate. Get a pintle ring if you're anything over 6 ton. Use a separate ground wire for all you're lighs. Order your trailer hot dipped galvanized, powder coats suck on trailers. They don't get the metal hot enough. We could talk about cross members and grease vs oil bath but that gets into a heavier class of trailer. Last, dont forget to ugrade youre drivers license if youre over 18000 lb. Oh, here's the payoff, dexter axle electric brakes aren't designed to stop the vehicle, only slow it down when the breakaway is pulled. Get the letter from Dexter.
I hear the voice of experience speaking......
@@justintx75 Thnx JustinTX75. Only about 20 years haulin hay with a custom 10 wheeler Western Star pullin a 6 ton pup through new england. nice to have someone appreciate the voice of experience.
I appreciate your insights on the how to make it better. However, I only have 6 ply, C rating as that is standard for a 7000# TA trailer. Now I wish I had gotten the 10plys for that trailer, but I'd rather think that 14 plys are a bit overkill for a 7000# trailer. Now as you suggest, the 14ply would be helpful and the way to go on over 10000# or 14000# trailers, but I just don't have a need for that size/capacity trailer. I just tow a small tractor with it's attachments, so it runs about 2500#, give or take. I didn't know much about the brake issues, hydraulic versus electric, so that was interesting. Thanks for watching.
Yeah they come with load range c tires. Load range e is the upgrade. Which is 10 ply. Doubt they make a 14 ply in this size, if they did it'd ride so rough empty you'd hate it. Also license upgrade comes into effect at 10k trailer gvwr or 26k combination gvwr. Neither of those would come into play with this trailer.
@@chaseledbetter5186 Agreed, thanks for watching.
The holes are lower on the D ring because they’re meant for the pin to go below the pocket. Most pocket do not have a hole for a pin. That’s y it is not setting level for you
Yes, granted they were cheap stake pockets and relatively cheap D-rings, they were a set put together with different parts from different suppliers, surely a better thought out plan could have been done. Thanks for watching.
Good ideas
Thanks and thanks for watching.
The Weigh-Safe is great. I can get 10-15% on the tongue with it easily. Once I setup one vehicle on the trailer, I paint the wheel position so I can get it right every time. Though expensive, makes towing safer and well worth it.
Yes it is pricey, but it is a quality piece and I think still cheaper than it's "real" competitors. I do like the idea of painting indicators for different loads, that's a brillant idea. Thanks for watching.
How long have you used it? I’ve heard they work okay for set up and measuring weight but if you tow with them they will quickly break due to dynamic road forces (trailer tongue weight bouncing up and down) exceeding weight gauge.
@@preachers4135 I've only only mine for about 6-7 months, so I couldn't tell you about long-term use just yet. However, mine is likely never been past it's "max" weight, bouncing or not since I usually never load it more than 500# or so and I think the max weight on the scale is like 1500#. I think once I had it closer to 600-700#, but that was pretty rare. But I really hadn't heard about that before and will see how it does over time. Maybe I'mm have to do a long-term video at some point. Thanks for watching.
@@preachers4135 Been using 2 different models for 5 years. The rumor you heard was a myth. It's a pretty heavy duty built in scale. The bouncing weight wasn't an oversight in design. Pretty common knowledge for the average tower... i imagine the engineering team that designed the multi million dollar product didn't miss that detail
The weigh safe seems like a nice upgrade, but if you never know the weight of what's on the trailer it's not very useful. It's basically a guessing game just like positioning the load without it.
Guess I'm just old fashioned but I've had several straps break, give-way, snap & or fray, I will stick with my chains & binders & they don't get all sloppy & slimy & stretch when wet.
I looked into those, but cost and what I haul sort of prevented that. What I mean is my tractor is 2400-2600# fully loaded and no doubt chains and binders are better, but my straps at four corners each with 3333 and 4000# working strength and higher break loads left me feeling pretty secure. But side by side, your old fashionness is well thought out. Thanks for watching.
Wow it popped up in my feed thing is I’m building a wooden floor to my 1/10 RC trailer I know it’s on a small scale 🤔
A good fix for your straps rubbing against something is to stop by your local Fire Dept and see if they have a 2 1/2 fire hose that's scrap. If so get one and cut pieces of it in various lengths and slide your straps through the fire hose. The hose outside will take the beating and your straps will stay nice by rubbing against the smooth inside of the hose.
That sounds like a great lifehack for sure. Thanks for watching.
Would have liked to have seen how the tool box was fastened to the trailer but a great video
Yes, so it had four simply bolts that you had to drill through the frame of the tongue. Wasn't a huge deal, but drilling through thicker metal sort of always sucks. It was just where the edge of the tool box sat on the tongue rails. Thanks for watching.
I upgraded my jack to an electric jack and it’s been the best by far
Very nice.
What type of brakes do ya have on the trailer?
I am saving to get caliper brakes out on .
That’s one of my planned upgrades along with adding stale pockets & more lights to include a bright backup bar on the trailer .
A lot of times I arrive at night so that would make it easier to see where I wanna go .
Good video Senor.
They are the standard drum brakes, likely from Dexter, or the ones that Dexter puts on their axles. It does have brakes on both axles. I don't know if that is standard or an upgrade. I do know some other trailers I've seen only have brakes on one axle. Disc brakes would be a nice upgrade. Thanks for watching Eddie.
What brand jack and/or where did you buy it? Also, what brand are the taillights and/or where did you buy them?
I can't remember exactly, but it's in another comment somewhere. I no longer have that trailer, but I believe it was a Bulldog jack. My current trailer came with a very nice telescoping jack. Thanks for watching. It was from TSC.
The first one should be a bull dog hitch imo
Haha, to each his own buddy, I ilike my WeighSafe and thanks for watching.
what brand is you spare tire carrier....my trailer rails are angle iron like yours and i cant find attachment online?
I don't have that trailer anymore, but that tire carrier was actually part of the trailer when I got it, so I can't help you. I think I did get a tire carrier from TSC for one of two of my other trailers. My current trailer, a 16' er with a 6000# single axle also has a premadetire carrier. It has six lugs and larger 16" tires with 10 ply tires. Try TSC and Northern Tool, those would be the first two places I'd check. Thanks for watching.
@@MyProjectsFL thanks friend, maranatha in 2023
@@richardmachovec6005 That would be nice.
How is spare mounted?
Ramp storage?
Spare tire was mounted on the side, I think the pic showed that and no need for ramp storage, this one had a gate/ramp. My dream trailer would have the slideable ramps that pin up while in motion that also have the triangler brace at the bottom that steadies the trailer while loading and unloading. I do have a different trailer now, a 16 footer with a heavy duty single axle rated at 6000#, so slightly smaller than this one. I need to do another video on that one. Thanks for watching.
🤘🏽🤘🏽
Thanks for watching.
how about a video: 5 best downgrades for a trailer
1.) Broken Axle
2.) Missing Fenders
3.) Non-working or missing lights
4.) Busted Gate with Bungy cords holding it up
5.) Rotted out floor boards
I do have a buddy that has a trailer that may supply the content for such a video.🤣 Thanks for watching.
I’d love to buy a trailer like that one day and turn it into an over lander camper with walls and roof.
I'm actually moving back to a one axle trailer with a beefy 5200# axle, I never really used the 70000# capacity and now don't need the length. I think I'd recommend a beefy single axle for overland use too. I hate the tandem axle situation, but they are great for hauling heavy loads. Thanks for watching.
What brand is the trailer jack
I can't remember off hand, I will have to check, it was around $90 from Tractor Supply Co. but will check tomorrow.
www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/the-ultimate-trailer-jack?store=1693&cid=Shopping-Google-Local_Feed&Google&Shopping&Local_Feed&gclid=Cj0KCQiA4OybBhCzARIsAIcfn9mIHucutjKlu4Wl_QZQhrnQhIDR3TsrlTskUOlMZqvKhp3rIR4k12oaAgMxEALw_wcB You can get it for $70 somewhere else online
What about a wench
Agreed, that is one upgrade I could have used, at least a hand crank one and actually have one, just haven't installed it on my new trailer, but will at some point. Thanks for watching.
No backup lights? No backup alarm that speaks "attention please this vehicle is backing up" that always got everybody's attention and they are pretty cheap:-)
Yes, I know I am a terriblee person, I just realized on the small trailer that they do come with options to have back up lights. Honestly in Florida, I guess it's not required at all, as I've never had a trailer with them. Now, I have just sold both trailers, as I'm sort of combining the two (in a way). I'm stepping down to a 16' trailer with a SA, 5200#. I will likely outfit that one with back-ups once I get it unless it has them already, which I would guess no. Thanks for watching James and pointing that out.
I have small 5x8 enclosed 1 axle trailer and I added electric brakes and backup lights and a what a much improvement.
Your safety brake cable is connected in a dangerous way, that renders it useless. It should be free from all obstructions from the trailer to your truck, so if your tongue and safety chains fail the trailer applies it the brakes to avoid your trailer from continuing on at the speed it was doing.
ALWAYS USE CHAINS TO SECURE EQUIPMENT
Thanks for watching.
Or..... Don't buy an el-cheapo angle iron trailers. Buy only pipe rail trailers and then you have continuous tie down points all the way around.
He's not very edumacated when it comes vocabularies . . . . 🤣
less inane bable