I'll bet you didn't know hammers could be so useful! Learn how in this tutorial! ▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR MORE RESOURCES RELATED TO THIS VIDEO▼ *Tools used in this video:* -Taylor Tools (Check them out!): lddy.no/134wc -Cross-peen hammer: amzn.to/3B9Orxg -Hardwood mallets: lddy.no/13ves -Lump Hammer (SOLD OUT): lostartpress.com/products/lump-hammer -Dead-blow mallet: lddy.no/13ves -Hard rubber/plastic mallet: lddy.no/13ves -Brass carving mallet: lddy.no/13ves -More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs -Facebook: facebook.com/Stumpy-Nubs-Woodworking-Journal-305639859477973/ ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ Taylor Tools (A great small, family owned woodworking retailor): lddy.no/134wc *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
Tin Smith Grandpa had slew of the first type of hammer, most with worn heads. He used it for tin roof, making buckets, furnace work and ducting, and so on. Grandpa was the only smith in the county who could make a pressure vessel without the need of solder (think still)
As a blacksmith of over 50 years I have several dozen different hammers. Each has it's own job. As a smithing instructor, I am sorry but I noticed a bad habit you have that I need to break from most beginner students. That is your thumb is on the back of the handle. This will cause damage to the tendons in your wrist and elbow. Sorry about that, I could not help myself. A hammer should be held lightly with the thumb and first finger forming a circle the other 3 fingers manipulate the handle through the swing. The grip should be light enough that you should at first feel like the hammer is going to fly way from your hand. This will prevent the transfer of energy from the handle to your hand/arm, again avoiding injury. You are correct about needing several hammers, one is not enough. A Peen hammer can come in STRAIGHT, CROSS and DIAGONAL and in smithing it is used to move the metal in a direction 90 deg to the peen.
@@BS-ys8zn Unlikely. There is nothing new in smithing and what is old becomes new again. I am sure you have a high regard for your Grandpa as you should but in over 50 years of smithing myself, nothing is more true than what is old becomes new again and it has all been done before. Forming closed vessels from a shingle sheet of stock is old indeed. Paul Revere and countless others have formed vessels seamlessly. It has been done for hundreds of years, literally
@@wayneparris3439 Why do you feel the need to argue with someone's memory of their grandfather? I really don't see it's purpose other than to put him down.
Tip: wrap your rubber mallets/deadblows with a bit of masking tape so the rubber doesn't discolor whatever you're hitting. Even the bright orange ones I got from Harbor Freight seem to pick up some black nasty stuff over time that can leave a stain on wood and require sanding to remove. I also really like my urethane-wrapped round mallet for chisel work -- a has a nice slight taper to it, and a surface that won't split like the wood one you showed.
Halder makes some really nice mallets that have replaceable rubber heads and don’t stain or tarnish wood. I’m a finish carpenter by trade, the mallet works great on prefinished trim and cabinets and raw wood. They aren’t super expensive either.
Same as the glue video. Leave it to James to take a topic that sound simple (and boring) on the surface, and deliver excellent, informative, and amazing content. Thank for another great video
You are one of my three go to woodworking channels. Straightforward and honest. And you quite rightly show the small differences in tools that make a big difference in outcomes. Thank you from the UK.
Excellent video. My dad was a joiner and for all the years I knew him he was with the CWS Shopfitting works in Salford GB. I served 4 of a 5 year apprenticeship there before changing to architecture. He had many different tools which are rarely seen but with regard to hammers/mallets he had one which I haven’t come across anywhere else. I think it may have been a panel beater's tool. It had a wood shaft and a barrel shaped, iron head which had a coil of very tightly wound, thick leather in one side and solid copper in the other. My mentor was a highly skilled craftsman, not very far from retirement. He was the only one given the task of making glass display cabinets where two of the corner joints were very intricate. These formed the top two front corners of the cabinet which had to be glazed - top, front and end. A 1/16” chisel was used in this. One bead dove-tailed into another then the third tenoned into them. Once glued it was a solid joint. We sometimes had to use extra small panel pins which couldn’t be held in the fingers. An adapted pair of tweezers was used which had a groove filed into the grip parts so that the pin was held firmly.
I feel like a broken record sometimes when I comment on your videos as they are consistently so darned informative, complete and easy to watch. You are one of my favs when when I review newly released videos. Thanks again for all you do for our great community of woodworking!! Cheers Mate!!
That's funny. I made a joiners mallet because I wasn't confident turning a mallet. Made it from some hard wood scrap & liked it so much I made a 2nd even fancier.
Its so nice that you have taken the time to explain the purpose of these various hammers. I'm an older guy who had the fortune of having a Father who taught me the intricacies of many of these tools. Some people have not been so fortunate.
I use a Thor 712R hammer from the Thor Hammer Company for most of my chisel work. It has 2 replaceable faces one soft and one hard, so it also gets used for lots of other jobs too. They have a massive range of hammers with all sorts of replaceable faces and weights. I got mine after a recommendation from Paul Sellers.
Thank for the video! I do have them all and i have them in different sizes too! At least three of each! Until you dont have them you dont need them, but once you have them you cant live without them!
If you need a dead blow hammer in a pinch to assemble press fit stuff like wire grid shelves with plastic corners, take an old vitamin bottle and fill with water and any small metal objects you have around. washers or nuts may be ideal.
I have cross pean hammer from my late uncle. It has his name carved in to the side of the head and “1959” written on the handle. I have a lot of expensive tools, but it’s the pride of my shop.
I have all but a couple of them. Gotta definitely get a "lump hammer". Always learn something in your post. There’s also the “framing hammer" that I like more than the traditional claw hammer.
When I was a young'un I was in a workshop one time where one of the guys was needling another for using a 'Freeman hammer' to nail a box together. I had to ask him what that was.
I've been ogling that lump hammer for about a year. I can't honestly see a pressing need for it. But I *will* have it, sooner or later. Meanwhile, what I whack with my framing hammer stays whacked. (smooth faced, so more versatile than checkered).
@@mikestewart505 I hear you. I really don’t have a pressing need for half of the tools I have but having the right one when needed makes things go faster with better results. That goes for woodworking and home maintenance. And sometimes just looking at them and keeping them in good working order is as satisfying as looking at fine art.
Dude I've learned so much from you in a few short "lessons". I hope you monetize good, as I find this type and quality of content true value of youtube. All sorts of educators should look at your videos to see how to parse and condense information in an easy to understand and concise form.
Great video! I have one of each in my shop. For some reason, at 3:45, my wife started laughing hysterically. Not sure why. When I asked her she just mumbled, "That's what she said" as she wondered off, still laughing. Yep, she is a weird one!
Very interesting! I always used Lump Hammers for knocking out old mortar and concrete with a bolster- didn't know they were useful for woodworking too!
I asked for your opinion on if I should leave my high paying job for a small wood shop that would train me. Needless to say it was well worth it. I’ve learned more in 1 week then the past 3 months. The craft is beautiful and getting to see all the pieces come together in the end is super satisfying.
Thanks for this. My shop hammer belonged to my gramps who was a trim carpenter in the 1920s through the 40s Its claws have sharper radius for better extraction and pull the tiniest of Brad's out. Plus it has the earliest ball bearings for holding nails (that I've seen anyway) for that long reach nailing. I kept it in a drawer for ages and then thought "I'm not a museum" so now use all my antique tools wherever I can. Appreciate your vids.
My former boss, Al Kovall is the best carpenter I've known in 40 years. He used to run base and case by hand, and THE way to do this was with a small gouge to curl up a sliver of trim and use the extinct 7 oz Stanley claw hammer and nail set in the groove, then glue it back died and usually tape it.
I gotta say, I went to TAYLOR TOOLWORKS website, I didn't do an extensive search, but from what I saw their prices seem very reasonable and they have a great selection. I also like to deal with the smaller "mom and pop " type stores, so I will definitely be putting an order in with them.
I had a decent collection of hammers (aka persuaders), but when I inherited my late grandads' those are now my go-to choice and the newer ones are neglected. Seems like they're not dissimilar to cast iron pans, the older they are the better.
Fascinating stuff. In addition to your usual short, yet highly informative format, I really appreciate your use of the English language. For example, you've used persuade and choke in two quite interesting, yet appropriate contexts. It's good to see. Thank you.
Not to be picky, but the hammer you are holding and describing is actually a machinists hammer, I made one in grand nine machining class. The second picture you showed is the actual Warrington hammer. Your description of its use is correct. Learn a lot from your videos and sometimes the jog my memory of projects from my past. My first hammer was the old leather handled 16 oz. Estwing curved claw hammer. I still have it along with a few older curved claw hammers I've found in various places. The Estwing could use a new handle, but I'm mote into the straight clawed hammer these days. I also have the leather handled Estwing hatchet.
Great video. you give an excellent and clear rundown on hammers used in woodworking. and I love your shoutout supporting small business! There are several more options of shape and size "peen" hammers than even you have shown. Just like your cross peen with the flat running horizontal, there is a diagonal peen (self explanitory), and a straight peen with the flat running vertically. They were all primarily used and developed by blacksmiths and metal workers as a peen is away to make metal move in a controlled direction. The next level of control would be to use fullers and swages.
I made my first one piece carving mallet with a hatchet, a saw, a Shinto rasp, and a spoke shave. I'm glad I did it, but I really wish I had a lathe. XD
Warrington pattern cross pein hammer was (and still is) very useful for adjusting wooden plane irons. The cross pein is also great for removing the wedge from a moulding plane…the wedges are shaped with that function in mind.
I agree and have them all but the lump hammer and one you didn't have or suggest, the rawhide mallet. I find a lot of uses for one. Thank you for you videos.
My Dad was a carpenter, granddad was a millwright. I was taught that ball peen was soft steel so it was safe to strike steel; claw hammer has a hardened face, it may spall if used on steel objects other than nails, which are soft steel.
Two that didn't mention are the framing hammer and rigger's axe. They're both great for general home repairs, so they're nice to have in the DIYer's toolbox, and they're often found at yard sales. I've been thinking of upgrading to a framer's hammer with a magnetic nail holder.
Great video stumpy, if I may just one small bit of advise from some who's been swinging hammers for over 60+ yrs always try to get or use hammers with wooded handles they transfer far less vibration to your arm and shoulder, steel handled hammers should be used in demo work only, when possible even the newer fiberglass are better than steel.
I used a very cheap hammer when building a summer house, and suffered from joiner's elbow. I then bought an "anti-vibration" hammer, which has a metal shaft, with a rubber handgrip. It seems ok, but I've not had to use it much since then.
Thanks James for the nice review of common hammers. It makes me want to go out to my 20 degrees F shop and just pick up a few... At the risk of being pedantic, you hit a pet peeve of mine at 5:22: "... that dead blow delivers more power..." My father used to say that a dead blow hammer delivers more 'oompf. 'These are versions of a popular misconception, that you can have no dents, better control, and more (something) with a dead blow hammer; if that were true we wouldn't need some of the other kinds of hammers. We know it delivers less force because it is less likely to dent the surface. It does this by increasing the time span of the blow, as the lead/steel balls do not all hit the front at once. We know It does less work on the surface, since it delivers a smaller force over a smaller (dentless) distance. Since it delivers less work (energy) over a longer time, it delivers less power, not more. What a dead blow hammer really does is allow you to deliver less force (fewer/smaller dents) while using the same swing with the same weight as your 'regular' hammer.
I use a dead blow hammer in my kitchen. My son gave it to me after he saw me struggling to cut a winter squash. Having a plastic shell, it cleans like a breeze.
We used to have lead headed hammers at work. They will give the weight like a lump hammer with the soft head of a deadblow hammer. More for working on machinery. When they get flattened enough you just remelt and cast a new head. Easy to make in different sizes.
An excellent overview of the different types of hammers & mallets, it is good to learn something new every day. Narex by the way is owned by Tool Technique Systems in Germany and they also own Festool, Sawstop and Shaper Origin. All quality products.
I have lived in Warrington for 35yrs and had never heard of the Warrington hammer (always a joiner's hammer). Warrington was well-known for forging but more so for wire drawing, which is why the town's rugby team was named the Warrington Wire (nowadays called Warrington Wolves).
I think older is better for the claw hammers. I got almost ten, different claw angles and weights help. Its also nice when you do a project with a tool you used as a kid working with your grandfather or father.
This is a cool video, I really learned something and that can't be a bad thing. I have a vintage claw hammer that I really cherish. I found it in the mud when I was a kid a long time ago. It was all rusted and the handle was weathered. Against all odds I decided to take it home and restore it. It is still in good shape now I love how I got to own it.
Use a smaller hammer to form things and a large hammer to move things. Good video, I have a gob of hammers but now I want a couple more! I made a big lead hammer out of old wheel weights melted down, about 5 pounds, to move stuff and it is a pleasure to use . I believe I’ll make a dead blow next, I’ll try cut up wheel weights on one and lead shot on another to see what the difference might be. A dead blow doesn’t bounce, making it ideal when setting fixtures.Thanks
The milled or waffle faced hammer is also very handy, especially when removing nails. When used properly you can 'put English' on the stroke to help guide the nail and keep it from bending. It takes practice and a fine touch, but when done properly it make removing nails much easier. (The smell of a good rubber mallet, reminds me of my grandfather's garage).
I've been surprisingly happy with Estwing "double faced soft hammer". Plastic on one side, rubber on the other, nice shorter handle. Ideal for putting paint can lids back on, & generally very handy in the shop. One of those 'why didn't I have this years ago?' things. Definitely Japanese chisel hammers, but Japanese carpenter hammers not so much (skinny handles, un-useful claw).
My daily driver is a "Wood is Good" MA18 with a tweak. The MA14 looks the same, but MA18 is factory bored and has a metal weighted core that's plugged in with a top cap. I've blown these caps and weights out and they did replace it under warranty but here's a tip: I drill an off of center pilot through one side of urethane head and graze the side of the weight but not out the other side of urethane (maybe into it). Then tap a 1/4"×20 thread down the hole and run a long brass screw to bottom. I'll mark the screw and back it out a tad then hacksaw it to undermine it and then run it back in until it breaks of just below surface of mallet face.
Japanese chisel hammer, very useful for a lot of light work. A variety of automotive body hammers, an old roofing hammer for shake or composition roofing w/built in spacing guide, haven't found much alternative use for them yet. The most useful hammer I use is a Japanese finish hammer with claw. Once you use one, I think you'll stay with it.
Again another excellent video packed full of good info presented smoothly and in just the right amount of time. One hammer I like lots is a dual face rubber / plastic one I use. I like being able to flip between the two faces as I need. The rubber gives a smooth hit and the plastic a nice crisp rap. Just right sometimes for coaxing a joint together.
Hope I can dig up an old hammer to use. Some tools have advanced a lot since the start of the industrial revolution but I guess hammers can really stand the test of time.
I'll bet you didn't know hammers could be so useful! Learn how in this tutorial!
▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR MORE RESOURCES RELATED TO THIS VIDEO▼
*Tools used in this video:*
-Taylor Tools (Check them out!): lddy.no/134wc
-Cross-peen hammer: amzn.to/3B9Orxg
-Hardwood mallets: lddy.no/13ves
-Lump Hammer (SOLD OUT): lostartpress.com/products/lump-hammer
-Dead-blow mallet: lddy.no/13ves
-Hard rubber/plastic mallet: lddy.no/13ves
-Brass carving mallet: lddy.no/13ves
-More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/
-Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/
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Tin Smith Grandpa had slew of the first type of hammer, most with worn heads. He used it for tin roof, making buckets, furnace work and ducting, and so on. Grandpa was the only smith in the county who could make a pressure vessel without the need of solder (think still)
As a blacksmith of over 50 years I have several dozen different hammers. Each has it's own job. As a smithing instructor, I am sorry but I noticed a bad habit you have that I need to break from most beginner students. That is your thumb is on the back of the handle. This will cause damage to the tendons in your wrist and elbow. Sorry about that, I could not help myself. A hammer should be held lightly with the thumb and first finger forming a circle the other 3 fingers manipulate the handle through the swing. The grip should be light enough that you should at first feel like the hammer is going to fly way from your hand. This will prevent the transfer of energy from the handle to your hand/arm, again avoiding injury. You are correct about needing several hammers, one is not enough. A Peen hammer can come in STRAIGHT, CROSS and DIAGONAL and in smithing it is used to move the metal in a direction 90 deg to the peen.
@@BS-ys8zn Unlikely. There is nothing new in smithing and what is old becomes new again. I am sure you have a high regard for your Grandpa as you should but in over 50 years of smithing myself, nothing is more true than what is old becomes new again and it has all been done before. Forming closed vessels from a shingle sheet of stock is old indeed. Paul Revere and countless others have formed vessels seamlessly. It has been done for hundreds of years, literally
@@wayneparris3439 Where in the video are you referring to? I only pound one nail, and I'm not sure you can see my grip at all in that case.
@@wayneparris3439 Why do you feel the need to argue with someone's memory of their grandfather? I really don't see it's purpose other than to put him down.
Tip: wrap your rubber mallets/deadblows with a bit of masking tape so the rubber doesn't discolor whatever you're hitting. Even the bright orange ones I got from Harbor Freight seem to pick up some black nasty stuff over time that can leave a stain on wood and require sanding to remove. I also really like my urethane-wrapped round mallet for chisel work -- a has a nice slight taper to it, and a surface that won't split like the wood one you showed.
Halder makes some really nice mallets that have replaceable rubber heads and don’t stain or tarnish wood. I’m a finish carpenter by trade, the mallet works great on prefinished trim and cabinets and raw wood. They aren’t super expensive either.
This video really hit the nail on the head. Totally crushed it. Smashing success.
Agreed. He didn't blow it anywhere!
"not all pounding has to be gentle" nicely said my friend
Same as the glue video. Leave it to James to take a topic that sound simple (and boring) on the surface, and deliver excellent, informative, and amazing content. Thank for another great video
Deadblows are a personal favorite. Useful in so many situations around the house.
Taylor Tools is one of my favorite tool sources for quality and reasonable prices.
You are one of my three go to woodworking channels. Straightforward and honest.
And you quite rightly show the small differences in tools that make a big difference in outcomes.
Thank you from the UK.
…and from Denmark!
Ol Stumps really hit this one on the head. Yeah he nailed it.
You really nailed it on this one James!
Excellent video.
My dad was a joiner and for all the years I knew him he was with the CWS Shopfitting works in Salford GB. I served 4 of a 5 year apprenticeship there before changing to architecture. He had many different tools which are rarely seen but with regard to hammers/mallets he had one which I haven’t come across anywhere else. I think it may have been a panel beater's tool. It had a wood shaft and a barrel shaped, iron head which had a coil of very tightly wound, thick leather in one side and solid copper in the other.
My mentor was a highly skilled craftsman, not very far from retirement. He was the only one given the task of making glass display cabinets where two of the corner joints were very intricate. These formed the top two front corners of the cabinet which had to be glazed - top, front and end. A 1/16” chisel was used in this. One bead dove-tailed into another then the third tenoned into them. Once glued it was a solid joint.
We sometimes had to use extra small panel pins which couldn’t be held in the fingers. An adapted pair of tweezers was used which had a groove filed into the grip parts so that the pin was held firmly.
I hope this doesn't sound facetious. This is the best hammer video I've ever seen.
Great lesson on different types of hammers.
Thanks for sharing with us James . Liked the information you gave about the different uses. Fred.
I bought the lump hammer on a whim, shocked at how much I love it
"Not all pounding has to be gentle though" quote of the year
Ayyyy im from Warrington and a wood worker. Never thought I’d hear my town on your channel!
I'm 67 and still using a lot of my old Dad's tools - many of which came to him from his Uncle Peter. They don't make 'em like they used to!
You really hammered it home! I’ve got a few that are on your workbench, but I got a couple that you don’t, and use them frequently
I feel like a broken record sometimes when I comment on your videos as they are consistently so darned informative, complete and easy to watch. You are one of my favs when when I review newly released videos.
Thanks again for all you do for our great community of woodworking!! Cheers Mate!!
Love how simply and clearly you explain tools and their uses. I always learn something.
Excellent! Always a joy to watch…Thanks!
That's funny. I made a joiners mallet because I wasn't confident turning a mallet. Made it from some hard wood scrap & liked it so much I made a 2nd even fancier.
Good video on a often overlooked subject. I really appreciate learning about the use of some less than common tools.
Its so nice that you have taken the time to explain the purpose of these various hammers.
I'm an older guy who had the fortune of having a Father who taught me the intricacies of many of these tools. Some people have not been so fortunate.
I use a Thor 712R hammer from the Thor Hammer Company for most of my chisel work. It has 2 replaceable faces one soft and one hard, so it also gets used for lots of other jobs too. They have a massive range of hammers with all sorts of replaceable faces and weights. I got mine after a recommendation from Paul Sellers.
Thank for the video!
I do have them all and i have them in different sizes too! At least three of each!
Until you dont have them you dont need them, but once you have them you cant live without them!
If i didn't know already you weren't a framer/rough in carpenter; your suggestions for a claw hammer definitely got the point across 😂🤣😂
If you need a dead blow hammer in a pinch to assemble press fit stuff like wire grid shelves with plastic corners, take an old vitamin bottle and fill with water and any small metal objects you have around. washers or nuts may be ideal.
I have cross pean hammer from my late uncle. It has his name carved in to the side of the head and “1959” written on the handle. I have a lot of expensive tools, but it’s the pride of my shop.
My 8oz and 16oz deadblows are my two favorite thwacking tools. The smaller one lives in my apron.
Thanks for the great info. Always worth the time to watch your videos. I will be adding versatility to my shop.
I have all but a couple of them. Gotta definitely get a "lump hammer". Always learn something in your post. There’s also the “framing hammer" that I like more than the traditional claw hammer.
Ditto on the framing hammer. I first used one them just last year. What a difference from curved claw
When I was a young'un I was in a workshop one time where one of the guys was needling another for using a 'Freeman hammer' to nail a box together. I had to ask him what that was.
I've been ogling that lump hammer for about a year. I can't honestly see a pressing need for it. But I *will* have it, sooner or later. Meanwhile, what I whack with my framing hammer stays whacked. (smooth faced, so more versatile than checkered).
@@mikestewart505 I hear you. I really don’t have a pressing need for half of the tools I have but having the right one when needed makes things go faster with better results. That goes for woodworking and home maintenance. And sometimes just looking at them and keeping them in good working order is as satisfying as looking at fine art.
@@skydiverclassc2031: So, what the Hell i it?? I just checked online and can't find a thing.
2-3 lbs dead blow is my go to ESPECIALLY for assembly
Dude I've learned so much from you in a few short "lessons". I hope you monetize good, as I find this type and quality of content true value of youtube. All sorts of educators should look at your videos to see how to parse and condense information in an easy to understand and concise form.
For a claw hammer my favorite is estwing, they are really nicely finished and last forever
come on Stumpy...in this community, we are all pros when it comes to getting hammered... because as you know, we deserve it!
Great video! I have one of each in my shop. For some reason, at 3:45, my wife started laughing hysterically. Not sure why. When I asked her she just mumbled, "That's what she said" as she wondered off, still laughing. Yep, she is a weird one!
Seriously too good! 🤣🤣🤣
"Not all pounding has to be gentle".
Very interesting! I always used Lump Hammers for knocking out old mortar and concrete with a bolster- didn't know they were useful for woodworking too!
I asked for your opinion on if I should leave my high paying job for a small wood shop that would train me. Needless to say it was well worth it. I’ve learned more in 1 week then the past 3 months. The craft is beautiful and getting to see all the pieces come together in the end is super satisfying.
You nailed it with this video.
I also like using a framing hammer because the claws are less curved and work great for spreading material and pulling nails
Great video - you really.....NAILED IT.
Great discussion James. Thanks.
Thanks for this. My shop hammer belonged to my gramps who was a trim carpenter in the 1920s through the 40s
Its claws have sharper radius for better extraction and pull the tiniest of Brad's out. Plus it has the earliest ball bearings for holding nails (that I've seen anyway) for that long reach nailing. I kept it in a drawer for ages and then thought "I'm not a museum" so now use all my antique tools wherever I can. Appreciate your vids.
Nailed it Nubby🎯
My former boss, Al Kovall is the best carpenter I've known in 40 years. He used to run base and case by hand, and THE way to do this was with a small gouge to curl up a sliver of trim and use the extinct 7 oz Stanley claw hammer and nail set in the groove, then glue it back died and usually tape it.
I've always found hammers a facinating topic. Thanks for this.
Wonderful video on hammers , I have 30ish of all shapes and sizes, excellent advice and description
Thank you for another informative video.
I gotta say, I went to TAYLOR TOOLWORKS website, I didn't do an extensive search, but from what I saw their prices seem very reasonable and they have a great selection. I also like to deal with the smaller "mom and pop " type stores, so I will definitely be putting an order in with them.
I had a decent collection of hammers (aka persuaders), but when I inherited my late grandads' those are now my go-to choice and the newer ones are neglected. Seems like they're not dissimilar to cast iron pans, the older they are the better.
This is such a great channel!
Fascinating stuff. In addition to your usual short, yet highly informative format, I really appreciate your use of the English language. For example, you've used persuade and choke in two quite interesting, yet appropriate contexts. It's good to see. Thank you.
And brass hammers for spark-sensitive use.
Thanks for the great video James 👍 I always learn a lot from your channel.
Thanks James.
Not to be picky, but the hammer you are holding and describing is actually a machinists hammer, I made one in grand nine machining class. The second picture you showed is the actual Warrington hammer. Your description of its use is correct. Learn a lot from your videos and sometimes the jog my memory of projects from my past. My first hammer was the old leather handled 16 oz. Estwing curved claw hammer. I still have it along with a few older curved claw hammers I've found in various places. The Estwing could use a new handle, but I'm mote into the straight clawed hammer these days. I also have the leather handled Estwing hatchet.
Some metal working tools, like that hammer, are widely used for woodworking, as well.
Great video. you give an excellent and clear rundown on hammers used in woodworking. and I love your shoutout supporting small business! There are several more options of shape and size "peen" hammers than even you have shown. Just like your cross peen with the flat running horizontal, there is a diagonal peen (self explanitory), and a straight peen with the flat running vertically. They were all primarily used and developed by blacksmiths and metal workers as a peen is away to make metal move in a controlled direction. The next level of control would be to use fullers and swages.
I made my first one piece carving mallet with a hatchet, a saw, a Shinto rasp, and a spoke shave. I'm glad I did it, but I really wish I had a lathe. XD
My favorite tool is what's likely in that red cup.
Warrington pattern cross pein hammer was (and still is) very useful for adjusting wooden plane irons. The cross pein is also great for removing the wedge from a moulding plane…the wedges are shaped with that function in mind.
Roy Underhill had a show on making a joiners mallet from ash. Easy to make design, even i could (and did) make one.
I have a drawer of knockometers I inherited from my grandfather. Thanks to your tutorial I will be going through them to see what's what.
I agree and have them all but the lump hammer and one you didn't have or suggest, the rawhide mallet. I find a lot of uses for one. Thank you for you videos.
Well done SN! You sure hammered that subject home! 🔨🔨👍👍👏👏
Yup, he nailed it.
All but a couple of my hammers originally belonged to a Grandfather or Great Grandfather. Thanks for letting me know what my cross peen hammer is!
My Dad was a carpenter, granddad was a millwright. I was taught that ball peen was soft steel so it was safe to strike steel; claw hammer has a hardened face, it may spall if used on steel objects other than nails, which are soft steel.
Two that didn't mention are the framing hammer and rigger's axe. They're both great for general home repairs, so they're nice to have in the DIYer's toolbox, and they're often found at yard sales. I've been thinking of upgrading to a framer's hammer with a magnetic nail holder.
Good information. Good video. Kudos, and thanks.
Great video stumpy, if I may just one small bit of advise from some who's been swinging hammers for over 60+ yrs always try to get or use hammers with wooded handles they transfer far less vibration to your arm and shoulder, steel handled hammers should be used in demo work only, when possible even the newer fiberglass are better than steel.
I used a very cheap hammer when building a summer house, and suffered from joiner's elbow. I then bought an "anti-vibration" hammer, which has a metal shaft, with a rubber handgrip. It seems ok, but I've not had to use it much since then.
Video really hits home
You know, someone should write a song about the hammer. It could start out like, if I had a hammer...😁 Good stuff, always learn something new.
Never heard of a lump hammer. You always have very informative and interesting videos! Thanks.
Thanks James for the nice review of common hammers. It makes me want to go out to my 20 degrees F shop and just pick up a few...
At the risk of being pedantic, you hit a pet peeve of mine at 5:22: "... that dead blow delivers more power..." My father used to say that a dead blow hammer delivers more 'oompf. 'These are versions of a popular misconception, that you can have no dents, better control, and more (something) with a dead blow hammer; if that were true we wouldn't need some of the other kinds of hammers. We know it delivers less force because it is less likely to dent the surface. It does this by increasing the time span of the blow, as the lead/steel balls do not all hit the front at once. We know It does less work on the surface, since it delivers a smaller force over a smaller (dentless) distance. Since it delivers less work (energy) over a longer time, it delivers less power, not more.
What a dead blow hammer really does is allow you to deliver less force (fewer/smaller dents) while using the same swing with the same weight as your 'regular' hammer.
I use a dead blow hammer in my kitchen. My son gave it to me after he saw me struggling to cut a winter squash. Having a plastic shell, it cleans like a breeze.
Nice tumbler! 😎
Hammertime! I always wondered why the joiner's hammer was tapered like that. I knew there was a good reason.
Make sure to get one of those waffle-faced framing hammers for finish work on your fine furniture pieces. It'll help you get much better at sanding.
We used to have lead headed hammers at work. They will give the weight like a lump hammer with the soft head of a deadblow hammer. More for working on machinery. When they get flattened enough you just remelt and cast a new head. Easy to make in different sizes.
An excellent overview of the different types of hammers & mallets, it is good to learn something new every day. Narex by the way is owned by Tool Technique Systems in Germany and they also own Festool, Sawstop and Shaper Origin. All quality products.
I have lived in Warrington for 35yrs and had never heard of the Warrington hammer (always a joiner's hammer).
Warrington was well-known for forging but more so for wire drawing, which is why the town's rugby team was named the Warrington Wire (nowadays called Warrington Wolves).
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warrington_hammer
Love my wooden mallets I've made, good video blue
I think older is better for the claw hammers. I got almost ten, different claw angles and weights help. Its also nice when you do a project with a tool you used as a kid working with your grandfather or father.
This is a cool video, I really learned something and that can't be a bad thing.
I have a vintage claw hammer that I really cherish. I found it in the mud when I was a kid a long time ago. It was all rusted and the handle was weathered. Against all odds I decided to take it home and restore it. It is still in good shape now I love how I got to own it.
Very interesting, can’t wait until the screwdriver video.
I like having a straight-claw hammer in addition to the a curved claw hammer.
Lump hammers and claw hammers can also be useful in dismantling pallets (but we won't mention that here!)
Use a smaller hammer to form things and a large hammer to move things. Good video, I have a gob of hammers but now I want a couple more!
I made a big lead hammer out of old wheel weights melted down, about 5 pounds, to move stuff and it is a pleasure to use . I believe I’ll make a dead blow next, I’ll try cut up wheel weights on one and lead shot on another to see what the difference might be. A dead blow doesn’t bounce, making it ideal when setting fixtures.Thanks
I have a nice rolled leather hammer. 28 oz Thanks for the content and greetings from the NJ Bayshore
The milled or waffle faced hammer is also very handy, especially when removing nails. When used properly you can 'put English' on the stroke to help guide the nail and keep it from bending. It takes practice and a fine touch, but when done properly it make removing nails much easier. (The smell of a good rubber mallet, reminds me of my grandfather's garage).
Very useful video. 👍
Lexie dead blow hammers are great because you can get different hardness hammer faces for them.
I've been surprisingly happy with Estwing "double faced soft hammer". Plastic on one side, rubber on the other, nice shorter handle. Ideal for putting paint can lids back on, & generally very handy in the shop. One of those 'why didn't I have this years ago?' things. Definitely Japanese chisel hammers, but Japanese carpenter hammers not so much (skinny handles, un-useful claw).
My daily driver is a "Wood is Good" MA18 with a tweak. The MA14 looks the same, but MA18 is factory bored and has a metal weighted core that's plugged in with a top cap. I've blown these caps and weights out and they did replace it under warranty but here's a tip:
I drill an off of center pilot through one side of urethane head and graze the side of the weight but not out the other side of urethane (maybe into it). Then tap a 1/4"×20 thread down the hole and run a long brass screw to bottom. I'll mark the screw and back it out a tad then hacksaw it to undermine it and then run it back in until it breaks of just below surface of mallet face.
Japanese chisel hammer, very useful for a lot of light work. A variety of automotive body hammers, an old roofing hammer for shake or composition roofing w/built in spacing guide, haven't found much alternative use for them yet. The most useful hammer I use is a Japanese finish hammer with claw. Once you use one, I think you'll stay with it.
They do have some sweet little hammers.
Good video I always wondered what the end on a cross pane hammer was for.
I explained it's use in woodworking. In metal working it is used to spread the metal outward from the blows.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Again another excellent video packed full of good info presented smoothly and in just the right amount of time. One hammer I like lots is a dual face rubber / plastic one I use. I like being able to flip between the two faces as I need. The rubber gives a smooth hit and the plastic a nice crisp rap. Just right sometimes for coaxing a joint together.
Hope I can dig up an old hammer to use. Some tools have advanced a lot since the start of the industrial revolution but I guess hammers can really stand the test of time.