My Norton stone was so out of balance a penny would instantly fall off the motor. I used the "ways" of my 20 ton press, 2 maple blocks and a 1/2" rod to make a crude balancing device. Now I can grind on my bench grinder and the penny doesn't move. It's a totally different experience grinding with a balanced stone. Thanks Randy for your thorough videos.
Just random thoughts really no real thinking involved. I am just lucky to have a shop and the time to expand those thoughts. Thank you Terry for the kind comment.
Amazing how much that black wheel was out originally. Nifty idea with the shim stock and solder approach... something I'll remember even though I only have regular grinders. cool. Balancing weight required will I am thinking be more or less depending on distance of weight/weights from center.
Watched the informative and well presented videos on balancing thank you for sharing your knowledge with us I will have a go with the brass flanges , Full view/Like Yiannis (Athens Greece)
Both vids on balancing are very informative, the O & G company i worked for engineering standard for static & dynamic balancing was by removing material only
Thanks Baz. Yes sometimes it has to be removal on some items. Back in the day they would cast in weights or areas to be removed to perform the balancing.
Randy, I love your videos! I have a KO Lee S714 Surface grinder that I picked up a few years ago and I am getting it into shape to use. It only came with 1 mandrel which looks pretty much identical to yours. I have been looking on ebay for some more. Do you happen to know whether the mandrels for these older US made grinders are typically the same and interchangable? Thanks for any of your thoughts on this. R
No I did not shoot that. I scribed out the shape, used a 1" arch punch then trimmed the hole with a dremel tool to size 1-1/4" with no play in the hole, then cleaned a spot and used a 1940's large electric soldering iron to apply the solder. If I was going to make a bunch of these I would cut to shape then stack them and sandwich them between some material so I could mount in the lathe, then drill and bore to perfect size.
Like this better than the drill method lol. Hey can you show how to be rings in your balancer work I've thought of making one before sooks simple but it looks almost frictionless in it movement.
Oh lord Randy, someone will complain because you said sodder, instead of salder. I like you solution, is it patented yet? I knew a certain individual would still not be totally happy with how you made these. How much longer did this take than drill pecking, and don't you think you will get faster with experience. Don't like the idea of doing anything to affect the integrity of the wheel, that could lead to a high speed failure. But then what do I know, I don't have a surface grinder, but I have slept at a Holiday Inn Express. LOL Seriously though I used to balance tires in another life, (40 years ago) and I like your weighting system. We always used a minimum of 4 weights (2 front/2 back), when bubble balancing, as it gave a better balance on the tires. Do what works for you and keep grinding. Love the videos, and the 'stache! (Wouldn't shave mine for anything less than a new Bridgeport Mill.)
Randy the only thing I would worry about is the brass moving while the wheel rotates, it doesn't seem too much holding them in place, but maybe the wheel adapter will keep them from moving. I'm just getting a surface grinder setup, so no expert, but going to opt for the balancing hubs with the movable weights that use set screws. I only got one wheel adapter with my grinder.:(
There was no movement. The wheel adapters with balance weights are pricy, $200 Plus ea. Where a standard one is $55. I am going to making another balance setup for use with a standard hub, Thanks .
HHIP has the balancing adapters for $80. Sopko clones as best I can tell. I bought one but haven't balanced a wheel yet...getting things setup and will do that soon, but no cigar yet. I need to finish clamps to hold the mag chuck to the table. www.hhip.com/f450-grinding-wheel-adapter-2420-0352.html
Click on the view catalog link at that page, you can see that the F450 has balancing tabs. There is another adapter for the Okuma/Tatung that looks like it would work for $52 (F350), but I wasn't sure if that was exactly the same as the common 1-1/4" taper or not...so went with the F450 to be safe. I only ordered one, but it looks fine. Sopko gets about $200-$300 each as you point out. Here's the F350: www.hhip.com/f350-grinding-wheel-adapter.html
Love your stuff, just a question. How much does a wheel cost? If you factor in shop time, is it economical to do that or would it have been better to just buy another? ( I know it was for a video, but it's just a $$$$ question) Keep up the cool vids!
Looking at hubs with integral balance masses and how they work it occurs to me a more developed fully machined version of what you have done here (think dividing head sector arms) would make for a great video.
My Norton stone was so out of balance a penny would instantly fall off the motor. I used the "ways" of my 20 ton press, 2 maple blocks and a 1/2" rod to make a crude balancing device. Now I can grind on my bench grinder and the penny doesn't move. It's a totally different experience grinding with a balanced stone. Thanks Randy for your thorough videos.
Nice.
Very informative series, Thanks! Merry Christmas!
Thank you , Merry Christmas to you and your family.
Thanks Randy. I really do respect and enjoy your creative thinking.
Just random thoughts really no real thinking involved. I am just lucky to have a shop and the time to expand those thoughts. Thank you Terry for the kind comment.
Thank you for your effort Randy. Love the work. Also the scribe was awesome. Thank you for that.
Thank you for your support Bruno.
Amazing how much that black wheel was out originally. Nifty idea with the shim stock and solder approach... something I'll remember even though I only have regular grinders. cool.
Balancing weight required will I am thinking be more or less depending on distance of weight/weights from center.
Thanks Chris. This worked really well and cheap.
Watched the informative and well presented videos on balancing thank you for sharing your knowledge with us I will have a go with the brass flanges , Full view/Like
Yiannis (Athens Greece)
thsnks
Both vids on balancing are very informative, the O & G company i worked for engineering standard for static & dynamic balancing was by removing material only
Thanks Baz. Yes sometimes it has to be removal on some items. Back in the day they would cast
in weights or areas to be removed to perform the balancing.
Clever solution Randy, Geez your more than a mustache... LOL
Well done. Cheers my friend
That was funny Phil LOL
Yeah that is what everyone thinks. Thanks Phil.
nice tip, thanks Randy.
Thanks Steve.
Randy,
I love your videos!
I have a KO Lee S714 Surface grinder that I picked up a few years ago and I am getting it into shape to use. It only came with 1 mandrel which looks pretty much identical to yours. I have been looking on ebay for some more. Do you happen to know whether the mandrels for these older US made grinders are typically the same and interchangable?
Thanks for any of your thoughts on this.
R
Thanks. I would say yes. You can contact LaBlond they are the dealer for KO Lee, just to make sure.
Good ideal randy, looks like good solution
Thank you Merton. Worked out great.
Like this method, Randy, drilling always made me uneasy. Creating a fracture point is like playing with fire.
Thanks Terry, Worked out great.
Randy is there any footage of how you made the brass weights ? I wonder how you cut the center holes in the shim stock
No I did not shoot that. I scribed out the shape, used a 1" arch punch then trimmed the hole with a dremel tool to size 1-1/4" with no play in the hole, then cleaned a spot and used a 1940's large electric soldering iron to apply the solder. If I was going to make a bunch of these I would cut to shape then stack them and sandwich them between some material so I could mount in the lathe, then drill and bore to perfect size.
Thanks Randy! What do you know about the double knife edge type balancers? They seem like they would be more suitable for a home shop build.
Thank you Bob. Just as good, Having a good arbor very important.
Like this better than the drill method lol. Hey can you show how to be rings in your balancer work I've thought of making one before sooks simple but it looks almost frictionless in it movement.
Oh lord Randy, someone will complain because you said sodder, instead of salder. I like you solution, is it patented yet? I knew a certain individual would still not be totally happy with how you made these. How much longer did this take than drill pecking, and don't you think you will get faster with experience. Don't like the idea of doing anything to affect the integrity of the wheel, that could lead to a high speed failure. But then what do I know, I don't have a surface grinder, but I have slept at a Holiday Inn Express. LOL Seriously though I used to balance tires in another life, (40 years ago) and I like your weighting system. We always used a minimum of 4 weights (2 front/2 back), when bubble balancing, as it gave a better balance on the tires. Do what works for you and keep grinding. Love the videos, and the 'stache! (Wouldn't shave mine for anything less than a new Bridgeport Mill.)
I do not know it is patented. About the same amount of time. On 1/2" thick wheels same side. Most folks seem to keep to one side. No shaving here.
I meant, have you patented it yet!
nope
Randy, What are you using for a camera these days? Your video quality now is amazing! Loving it.
Thanks Dan. I am using A Cannon DSLR, shooting 1080.
I like you idea ,you can made 3 o 4 “ complete round brass disc and you weld lead to it as much you want or take off maybe you will like it
Works easy to adjust. Thanks you.
Nice idea Randy. I think you have to much time on your hands. LOL
Sometimes.
Randy the only thing I would worry about is the brass moving while the wheel rotates, it doesn't seem too much holding them in place, but maybe the wheel adapter will keep them from moving. I'm just getting a surface grinder setup, so no expert, but going to opt for the balancing hubs with the movable weights that use set screws. I only got one wheel adapter with my grinder.:(
There was no movement. The wheel adapters with balance weights are pricy, $200 Plus ea. Where a standard one is $55. I am going to making another balance setup for use with a standard hub, Thanks .
HHIP has the balancing adapters for $80. Sopko clones as best I can tell. I bought one but haven't balanced a wheel yet...getting things setup and will do that soon, but no cigar yet. I need to finish clamps to hold the mag chuck to the table.
www.hhip.com/f450-grinding-wheel-adapter-2420-0352.html
Click on the view catalog link at that page, you can see that the F450 has balancing tabs. There is another adapter for the Okuma/Tatung that looks like it would work for $52 (F350), but I wasn't sure if that was exactly the same as the common 1-1/4" taper or not...so went with the F450 to be safe. I only ordered one, but it looks fine. Sopko gets about $200-$300 each as you point out.
Here's the F350:
www.hhip.com/f350-grinding-wheel-adapter.html
Love your stuff, just a question. How much does a wheel cost? If you factor in shop time, is it economical to do that or would it have been better to just buy another? ( I know it was for a video, but it's just a $$$$ question) Keep up the cool vids!
This wheel was about $62.00. Buying another would not of helpped, they all really need balancing.
Thanks Badgermatt.
Looking at hubs with integral balance masses and how they work it occurs to me a more developed fully machined version of what you have done here (think dividing head sector arms) would make for a great video.
Thanks Rob. That would also work.
Great job of non-destructive balancing. Never good to be caught off balance.
Thanks Harold,
I prefer this method to drilling the wheel, that doesn't alter the wheel and the drilled holes don't det filled... ;)
Wouldnt the holes in the wheel weaken the structure of the wheel ?
Thanks Pierre.
Yes, the holes you drill are not deep, more like depressions.
clever balance trick @RandyRichards
Thanks.
Nice work! Maybe just bend over the end of the brass to add mass instead of using solder.
That would work also. Thanks Paul.
nice job
Thank jim.
Nice
Thanks
Saludos desde chile
Thank you Mauricio.
Something like the "www.vesspropellers.com/100cc-vess-balance-ring/" would work using set screws as weights
This I think would also work. Thanks Morgan.