Hey Rich make sure to check out the main hot cable that bolts to the left side of the fuse box on the spot where you hook your jump box. I have had 2 Mavericks with your issue and I wiggled that cable and the vehicle started. Come to find out on the cable it's not crimped to the end. Ford decided to use some kind of glue to hold it together instead of a crimped end. I found it by removing the insulation at the end and couldn't believe it was designed like that. If that cable gets moved just to the right spot you'll have battery power and then after the customer leaves it could have the same issue. Might not be the issue on the car you are working on but I thought maybe good to know. Hopefully they changed the design by now. Have a great day sir.
Just had that issue my truck died while running in the road, while driving suddenly no sign of power or electricity and without warning became unresponsive in every aspect regarding to electricity (Breaks, Stearing wheel, Parking break, Transmission, airbags) given the case the truck is hybrid everything stopped working. After that the truck did not start again no ignition total loss of power. Got it towed to the ford dealer and with 39,000 miles on it they charged me $3,500 to get it fixed. So I was this is unacceptable there should be a recall for this type of problem it so unsafe why am I being charged so I had to call ford directly to and they where sorry that happened to you we understand what you had to go through but final decision is the dealer’s. And they told me by the way your truck has an airbag recall. Now am in the process to report this to nation highway traffic safety administration so I can help make this a recall hopefully nobody has to go through this
Good job in showing us all of the details in this video. I'm worried why a vehicle that's only one year old has oxidation problems that cause a no crank problem. We need to find the root cause so that it can be prevented in the future.
Seems to me that the reason for the oxidation is because the buss bars were exposed to the elements, I mean like direct water exposure and some cathodic corrosion came to be.
Hey bud. Just keep doing your thing. You give great info and advice. We know you know what your doing. Show us when you can. Answer a question when you can. Me and many others appreciate what you do.
This issue just happened again to my 2022 Maverick hybrid. The first time it happened they put a new battery in, about 6 weeks ago. The service people at the dealership obviously didn’t watch this video, which I emailed to them, the first time so maybe they’ll watch it this time around. Fingers crossed, thanks again for the video.
Update: Service manager at Gwinnett Place Ford promises to watch the video today. I've watched it several times and I'm 99% sure this is the issue. Will let you know what they say.
Rich, you need to call Ford and fill out an application for Electrical Engineer. WTF?? What you explained is the equivalent of a recall notice service bulletin fine print & all. Pretty amazing. I used the wooden handle from a rubber mallet to basically 'jiggle the handle' on the connection, which did the trick. Great job amigo!
Thank you. I had to do the same work you completed to get this thing out of my driveway and over to Ford tonight. Connections were just as you described, sort of crappy. Scruff up all pieces and shock myself and put back together
Hey brother, don’t listen to these keyboard Warriors, you are working a tuff job as it is & you do lots of it with 1 hand, I say tell them to pound sand!! Thanks for everything you and the other guy’s do for all of us.. boss man..
Thanks for posting this. I bought my Maverick in 2022 and for 2.5 years it's been fine and then bang this exact issue came up, of course a few thousand miles after the 36K bumper to bumper warranty expired so Ford dealer wants $3000 to replace the wire harness...F%$K that. I bought a jumper box and jump it everyday until I could figure out where the issue is and try and fix it myself.
awesome video! My 1st seeing this too! Just started watching! I love it! Let's see what the hell wrong! Cheers 🍻 as always Boss will figure it out! I get to learn something new about today's new vehicles! Thanks Boss!
I've used star washers between metal pieces that are held together with bolts and carry electricity through them. They dig into the metal on both sides to ensure good conductivity. Works great and lasts a long time.
Great troubleshooting! Does not bode well to see this corrosion cause this no-start situation after what, a year in service? What happens 5-10 years down the road? What is going to happen to those Mavericks in a salt air environment? Or in those areas where calcium chloride and a brine solution is laid down on the roadway prior to every winter storm??
With all the crap coming from manufacturers nowadays, mechanics are going to have a lot of work for a long time. Great video and diagnosis. Maybe all the Great mechanics need to design and build vehicles.
You almost found the actual cause. There are multiple hotline contacts about the main power cable not being soldered to the main terminal at the BJB connection. If you cut off the heat shrink the eyelet will fall of into your hand. By you messing with the cable it made it get better connection for now. Needs a new harness. Hope you see this.
YUp, my bet is the box and flat connectors are fine, but the feed from the battery is flaky. Check down a bit from the connector that bolts to the fuse box. Bet the termination is cruddy and you lose V by wiggling the feed wire.
Like you said, looks to be a power feed issue to the fuse box. When he loaded it, voltage went down, therefore you bad connection to fuse box. I can see where the main power cable not making good connection with a bad crimp.
You might be right and we're going to figure all this out tomorrow as I said to be continued and I do have to get a new fuse box anyway because one of the fuses is pop that can't be replaced so sit tight ladies sit tight I didn't claim anything is 100% yet
And I won't be putting a new harness in it I will be actually crimping a new connection on it and fixing it the correct way instead of replacing everything and I'll get paid to do it
As I said we wait and I continue and move forward I figure it out don't be telling me what you think or what you know until I get to the bottom of it if you want to help I don't have a problem with that Don't be pushy that ain't going to work out for you well, if you watched the video and used your ears I mentioned the harness so it's NOT out of the question yet
I watched a video on Ford Lighting Electric Pickup. Ran hybrid battery to zero and 12v accessory battery. Had to be jumped to unlock door and other run options
I was so hyped about getting a hybrid for a second car. I changed my mind. I like to fix on my own vehicle besides the things I need a professional for. This looks way more complicated than it should be. I'm good! I'll stick to my regular gas powered easy maintenance type vehicles.
It's literally just a bad cable, that could happen in any car. It's not even Ford manufacturing it so it's just a bad spec using a crappy solder process from the source company, instead of crimping it.
Get a Corolla 1.8. the manual brother. Or the cvt. Theyre both pretty good these days except they took out the transmission dipstick which is stupid. Those 1.8L naturally aspirated will go for 500k miles if you take care of them. And no hybrid system so you can do your own spark plugs easy, ect
@@clavicus "it's just a bad cable" except it's not. This has to be one of the most complex vehicles I've ever seen. The issue isn't just one cable. even if it was the failure should've never happened on a brand new truck
Yes, I forsee in a couple years down the road before this vehicle is even paid off that the owner will be taking the bus to work while working hard to still make a payment...
Very good detective work on finding out where the power problem is. Lots of important information here. Also, I did not miss that very interesting voltage meter you were using. Perhaps you can give me a clue on where to purchase one.
You have good content, as does Ray. You do you and let the Rainman do himself. Sometimes I prefer your channel, because Ford, and Ray's exploits go a little too long. No, not a brand fanboy. I just happen to have Fords, and one happens to be a hybrid.
I've experienced different electrical issues with all brands of vehicles including Toyota and I usually dred taking it in for warranty repairs because you never know what kind of technician you'll have working on your vehicle. With you, I feel the vehicle probably comes out better than factory. Factory just slaps shit together, you'll make sure everything is tight and right.
Thank you for this video. I’m having this exact issue and the dealer keeps saying they cant repeat the problem. I take the car back and in a couple days, it won’t start again.
Where are the Part's made? Or is that a Factor to even consider? Seem's a bit early to have corrosion working it's way through a New Vehicle?? Great Video Rich, and If it can be rebuilt I suppose that would work.
It looks like a supply chain problem, looks like the vendor used some poor grade metal coating on their bus bar strip and for them to start to have corrosion in a one year old vehicle that has to be driven in all kinds of climate area... that's a nightmare of electrical problems for years to come if they don't address this problem quickly. Thanks for the excellent detective work on this one
they were rolled off the assembly line and parked in grassy wet fields waiting for parts. Wouldn't be surprised if some of these are 2020's and they called them 2022's haha
Bus bars can work well when done right (I worked in industrial maintenance for a few years) but this is not how you do it. Far too many issues: 1.) Dissimilar metals. 2.) Multiple crimped contacts rather than bolted 3.) subject to massive heat cycles 4.) moisture found its way in 5.) no way to replace those two fuses I wonder if someone power washed the engine bay? What does that blown fuse power?
@Fordbossme I wanted to check my on my own Maverick Hybrid and I had a hard time getting those 2 main connectors off of the top of the fuse block. Can you please show us the trick with on how to disconnect them off of the fuse box block. Thankyou for this video
Once you on snap the connectors you have to keep wiggling and pulling up eventually they pop off but don't go doing that because then you have to end up resetting the computer and if you don't have the tools to reset the computer you're going to set a bunch of codes
Wonder if a guy might use no-ox dielectric grease we used for aluminum wire contacts. it's a conductive grease. Used it allot for boat dock electrical boxes with aluminum wire. I also used it for boat trailer wire connections and bulb sockets. Just a thought. I got it from a electrical supply store. I pulled a 10 year old connection apart after being in and out of water and it looked like the day I made the connection.
Excellent suggestion. I use no-ox grease on my battery terminals with excellent results. No corrosion at all. The grease is high temperature and prevents galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals.
Seems like most vehicles MY 2020+ have small but major issues like this. Disruptions in supply chain, rapid increase in labor and raw material cost has led to a knee jerk reaction quality reduction to reduce costs. It’s not just Ford. New models typically have some issues the first 1 or 2 model years but the aforementioned supply/labor issues have made the typical first model year issues much worse
If that was your personal vehicle what would you do as preventative maintenance for the corrosion? In fleet services and with my own GM vehicle with side post terminals I assemble everything with copper anti seize. I know some use dielectric or axle grease. But I like using something that promotes conduction. But idk if I would do that on a customer's vehicle. Especially in the rust belt with water and or salt spray working its way under there.
Thank you for showing the reason NOT to buy a hybrid Rich. So we have the hybrid corrosion collector and the 2.0 Eco boost carbon collector. We will stick with the V-8 N/A. As always you do a hell of Good job Rich.
@@kenkozawa9810 Yes they are gaining experience via the American way; Guinea Pig the buyer who buys one. Really special. We don't care what Toyota or Honda are doing. USA first as much as possible unless of course if you prefer the current "Build back Better" horse manure.
@@reddog3544 sounds like a personal problem and some political angst. This is an international business world but you can continue to gimp yourself with your limited options!
@@kenkozawa9810 Putting the USA 1st isn't a personal problem. In my case it is a preference over kissing the world's ass like people who do. Political angst? No. Just prefer our way over communism. Lots of commie wana bees out there today. If you spent any time in military; you might have a better understanding instead of the shit you attempt to put out. Have a nice day.
How about some pentrox on t hose bus bar connections. The out door climate will deter corrosion if coated properly Another item is torque on those . The plastic should be backlite it will with stand high heat loads. Some charging disconnect were plastic and melted because of continuous high amperage loads The fix was bakelite. Those fuses must be per manufactures specifications and used per ampere rating.
rainman is my girlfriend lmao ,love both y'all's videos. why Ford didn't put some kind of coating on that doesn't make sense but hey I'm not the designer.
I hope the EcoBoost maverick doesn't have the same crappy fuse box. Though I do have to wonder if salt on the roads had anything to do with it. Cool video though. I have an XLT with Ecoboost in same color.
Thank you for sharing this informative and very well done vlog, your content can not be any more excellent, great job.Please keep it coming .To The Ford Boss internet Rock Star 100,000 ,000 Coming. From bodymanbob Northern Virginia ♥
What I don't get is: 1) If you buff it to bare metal, trying to get a clean contact, the bare will corrode unless you paint/varnish over everything. 2) If you put non-ox between the contacts, won't the non-ox itself interfere with the intimate connection? In the Air Force, We used to pack landing gear switches (subject to rain/snow/ice/dirt intrusion) with potting grease. I always wondered if the grease would interfere with proper make/break of the contacts. Is the fuzz "tin whiskers"? en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whisker_(metallurgy)
Those are good questions, and there are even debates within the industry about the use of dielectric grease. Suffice to say that you want a tight enough connection so that there is no space for water (and oxygen) to penetrate between the two surfaces. My experience is that it would be rare to have a poor connection when small quantities of dielectric grease are added before tightening down the bolt, and after that the chance of water penetration by surface tension is a lot lower. So you end up with a two step process, first clean (+/- cleaner), then add dielectric grease and tighten down. I think the tin whisker issue is more to do with microscopic short circuits on a board rather than the kind of high resistance open seen here. That excellent wiki reference describes the difference between dendritic formations and whiskers. The latter grows at right angles to the board, bridging gaps with conductive metal.
I get what you guys are saying but I'm also going to leave this with you I've never had a failure with the types of things that I feel comfortable doing in my career so I know you guys have the book answer in front of you and how you would like to see things done but that ain't going to happen all the time on this channel and I'm going to do what works for me simply because I have not seen failures doing it my way
looks like the same problem in the early 90's with corrosion in the fuse box, caused all types of problems, no start, hesitation, interior gauges faults, lighting faults. the fix was replace the fuse box but that meant that you also have to replace the harness molded into the box. had one come in with this problem, he asked to have the box replaced with a used one, did the job , all is fine. next customer comes in with lighting issues, fuse box again. i took some parts from the harness/fuse box and swapped to the original harness. took probable 2 hours as i am not a electronics person. it worked... but if you have to deal with these engineers that do not take into account the real world problems from environment, temperature, humidity, road conditions, customer habits (are you a rabbit or a snail), just my thoughts
This is terrible! All these issues should be recalled! I got a used 22 hybrid Maverick and at 15k miles it’s in dead mode in the driveway with an appointment at the dealer in a few days. Thankfully, it still has warranty so I’m not going to take it apart to investigate. Hopefully it’s an easy fix. Ford has been making some terrible and rushed decisions, making things cheap just to make a quick buck. This nonsense is going to hurt their reputation and hopefully their pocket.
The 300A mega fuse on my 22 Maverick blew less than 5 miles after I picked it up from the dealership while I was driving. Truck lurched and suddenly lost acceleration and threw off all sorts of warnings. Any thoughts on why that would happen? Just straight shoddy parts?
We had a similar occurrence on products from china. Turned out the plating bath in China was "muddy" their words not mine. They changed it and problem went away. Now we know where the muddy plate solution went. Rod
Since there seems to be alot of Ford techs here, let me just ask... what the heck is with the trans on my '22 Ranger? Its constantly shifting and I mean constantly and sometimes it bucks and jerks randomly when just driving on an open road. Love the truck, hate the trans. Are they failing alot?
Way, way too many points of failure. I can't understand what Ford was thinking when that was engineered. Rich, you better be careful. Keep solving issues like this and you'll become the go to guy for the whole dealership. A neverending stream of broken hybrids! Yikes.
It might be a little work but could a person that owns one of these vehicles that is working normally put some dielectric grease on the connections before corrosion sets in as a preventative measure?
@@FordBossMe i watched the latest video and I guess a little dielectric grease won't help what so ever. You did an amazing job fixing it, if I was the customer I would leave what you did it's way better than factory. You're amazing take care. 😇
@@FordBossMe instead of di-electric grease consider no-ox grease. Electricians use this grease on electrical panel service wires. It prevents oxidation/corrosion. It is high temperature. I use this grease on my battery terminal connectors and never had a problem. Great stuff.
You say “so much corrosion” but it looks pretty minimal to me. But your voltage drop proves you are correct. Gotta wonder what the situation is going to be in the next couple of years.
It's a brand new vehicle I don't ask people to come here to critique me I want you guys to come here and learn so when you drop your little comments about so much corrosion and you don't specify when you leave your comment oh you did say you already cleaned a bunch of it off so yes that is a lot
Sorry if you thought I was critical. Not what I was conveying at all. Even after you cleaned it up you still had that voltage drop while I thought it still appeared almost spotless. So not all is as it appears. Keep up the great videos. The technical information is invaluable.
How much current did you run though the battery cable to test it? I'm having a hard time seeing what the problem would be in the fuse box once you cleaned it up. (At least short term) I'd be suspicious about the cable, or even the crimped leg on the end.
Bro we've addressed this fkn cable in the comment section several times, don't be a tape recorded and play the repeat game have some decency and atleast have a scroll
The cable isn't out of the question I CLEARLY MENTIONED ALL THAT AND GAVE A PART # but you clearly missed I still have a blown fuse that can be changed that has to be replaced
the average age of cars on the road in america is now 12 years, this crazy shit is why. Who would pay 30 or 40k for these crazy experiments in engineering?
Hey Rich make sure to check out the main hot cable that bolts to the left side of the fuse box on the spot where you hook your jump box. I have had 2 Mavericks with your issue and I wiggled that cable and the vehicle started. Come to find out on the cable it's not crimped to the end. Ford decided to use some kind of glue to hold it together instead of a crimped end. I found it by removing the insulation at the end and couldn't believe it was designed like that. If that cable gets moved just to the right spot you'll have battery power and then after the customer leaves it could have the same issue. Might not be the issue on the car you are working on but I thought maybe good to know. Hopefully they changed the design by now. Have a great day sir.
I fixed it today it's up on the channel
Just had that issue my truck died while running in the road, while driving suddenly no sign of power or electricity and without warning became unresponsive in every aspect regarding to electricity (Breaks, Stearing wheel, Parking break, Transmission, airbags) given the case the truck is hybrid everything stopped working. After that the truck did not start again no ignition total loss of power.
Got it towed to the ford dealer and with 39,000 miles on it they charged me $3,500 to get it fixed. So I was this is unacceptable there should be a recall for this type of problem it so unsafe why am I being charged so I had to call ford directly to and they where sorry that happened to you we understand what you had to go through but final decision is the dealer’s. And they told me by the way your truck has an airbag recall. Now am in the process to report this to nation highway traffic safety administration so I can help make this a recall hopefully nobody has to go through this
Good job in showing us all of the details in this video. I'm worried why a vehicle that's only one year old has oxidation problems that cause a no crank problem. We need to find the root cause so that it can be prevented in the future.
Seems to me that the reason for the oxidation is because the buss bars were exposed to the elements, I mean like direct water exposure and some cathodic corrosion came to be.
@@JT-lq4yd Maybe.
its all built by the lowest bidder.
@@michaelparra8719 This...low quality materials with poor quality control/sorting, means terrible durabilty.
@@bikeman1x11 that fuse box assembly is made in Mexico
Awesome video, excellent investigating technique. Luv this man's tenacity to find out, figure out and correct situation.
I have owned a Fusion Hybrid for 9 years; I am glad to see some information on these.
Hey bud. Just keep doing your thing. You give great info and advice. We know you know what your doing. Show us when you can. Answer a question when you can. Me and many others appreciate what you do.
It's nuts that an almost brand new Maverick already has this issue. I'd understand if it was a 10 year old C-Max but this is ridiculous.
CMAX. I've not heard of that in a while. Those must have been a flop
@@marshmower My buddy has one with 375k. Used for UBER. Loves it.
Am going thorough same and just want to burn my truck right now. Ford and Dealership service center is nit at all helpful
@@vivekpatel8779is the maverick hybrid not worth it then? It looked like a good basic city truck, but I’m reading about issues and not so sure now
@@Lotsofchai Mine is awesome. I average 42 MPG. Nice and light. Great for city driving.
This issue just happened again to my 2022 Maverick hybrid. The first time it happened they put a new battery in, about 6 weeks ago. The service people at the dealership obviously didn’t watch this video, which I emailed to them, the first time so maybe they’ll watch it this time around. Fingers crossed, thanks again for the video.
Update: Service manager at Gwinnett Place Ford promises to watch the video today. I've watched it several times and I'm 99% sure this is the issue. Will let you know what they say.
Rich, you need to call Ford and fill out an application for Electrical Engineer. WTF?? What you explained is the equivalent of a recall notice service bulletin fine print & all. Pretty amazing. I used the wooden handle from a rubber mallet to basically 'jiggle the handle' on the connection, which did the trick. Great job amigo!
The tsb technical service bulletin came out and the finally say update with the new harness that has crimped connectors
Thank you. I had to do the same work you completed to get this thing out of my driveway and over to Ford tonight. Connections were just as you described, sort of crappy. Scruff up all pieces and shock myself and put back together
Another educational video. Thanks for this information, I will wait two years now before I consider buying a Maverick. Be Blessed.
Thank you! Your videos are always informative.
Hey brother, don’t listen to these keyboard Warriors, you are working a tuff job as it is & you do lots of it with 1 hand, I say tell them to pound sand!! Thanks for everything you and the other guy’s do for all of us.. boss man..
Thanks for posting this. I bought my Maverick in 2022 and for 2.5 years it's been fine and then bang this exact issue came up, of course a few thousand miles after the 36K bumper to bumper warranty expired so Ford dealer wants $3000 to replace the wire harness...F%$K that. I bought a jumper box and jump it everyday until I could figure out where the issue is and try and fix it myself.
awesome video! My 1st seeing this too! Just started watching! I love it! Let's see what the hell wrong! Cheers 🍻 as always Boss will figure it out! I get to learn something new about today's new vehicles! Thanks Boss!
Nice work Boss. You are one of the good ones, I hope they treat you well! Almost makes me wish I lived back in town. 🙂
fantastic and fabulous engineering in theory. But, in practice, looks like a constant point of trouble, especially long-term. Thanks for sharing...
I see a recall on those for defective fuse box replacement.
That's awesome!! Hasn't even seen the first winter yet.
I've used star washers between metal pieces that are held together with bolts and carry electricity through them. They dig into the metal on both sides to ensure good conductivity. Works great and lasts a long time.
Hope you’re able to rest after what might have been a long day for you. 🤜🤛
It's been a long long day
@@FordBossMe for real boss! Today's vehicles among all brands will be something like never before!
Great troubleshooting! Does not bode well to see this corrosion cause this no-start situation after what, a year in service? What happens 5-10 years down the road? What is going to happen to those Mavericks in a salt air environment? Or in those areas where calcium chloride and a brine solution is laid down on the roadway prior to every winter storm??
There will be a TSB by then since Rich is on the case.
With all the crap coming from manufacturers nowadays, mechanics are going to have a lot of work for a long time. Great video and diagnosis. Maybe all the Great mechanics need to design and build vehicles.
You almost found the actual cause. There are multiple hotline contacts about the main power cable not being soldered to the main terminal at the BJB connection. If you cut off the heat shrink the eyelet will fall of into your hand. By you messing with the cable it made it get better connection for now. Needs a new harness. Hope you see this.
YUp, my bet is the box and flat connectors are fine, but the feed from the battery is flaky. Check down a bit from the connector that bolts to the fuse box. Bet the termination is cruddy and you lose V by wiggling the feed wire.
Like you said, looks to be a power feed issue to the fuse box. When he loaded it, voltage went down, therefore you bad connection to fuse box. I can see where the main power cable not making good connection with a bad crimp.
You might be right and we're going to figure all this out tomorrow as I said to be continued and I do have to get a new fuse box anyway because one of the fuses is pop that can't be replaced so sit tight ladies sit tight I didn't claim anything is 100% yet
And I won't be putting a new harness in it I will be actually crimping a new connection on it and fixing it the correct way instead of replacing everything and I'll get paid to do it
As I said we wait and I continue and move forward I figure it out don't be telling me what you think or what you know until I get to the bottom of it if you want to help I don't have a problem with that
Don't be pushy that ain't going to work out for you well, if you watched the video and used your ears I mentioned the harness so it's NOT out of the question yet
I watched a video on Ford Lighting Electric Pickup. Ran hybrid battery to zero and 12v accessory battery. Had to be jumped to unlock door and other run options
I was so hyped about getting a hybrid for a second car. I changed my mind. I like to fix on my own vehicle besides the things I need a professional for. This looks way more complicated than it should be. I'm good! I'll stick to my regular gas powered easy maintenance type vehicles.
It's literally just a bad cable, that could happen in any car. It's not even Ford manufacturing it so it's just a bad spec using a crappy solder process from the source company, instead of crimping it.
Get a Corolla 1.8. the manual brother. Or the cvt. Theyre both pretty good these days except they took out the transmission dipstick which is stupid. Those 1.8L naturally aspirated will go for 500k miles if you take care of them. And no hybrid system so you can do your own spark plugs easy, ect
@@clavicus "it's just a bad cable" except it's not. This has to be one of the most complex vehicles I've ever seen. The issue isn't just one cable. even if it was the failure should've never happened on a brand new truck
Looks like a nightmare for owners down the road.
Yes, I forsee in a couple years down the road before this vehicle is even paid off that the owner will be taking the bus to work while working hard to still make a payment...
I had my maverick for 5 years no problems
@@kevinkant6817 Uhhhhhh no you didnt, the maverick went on sale in late 2021, it hasnt even been around for 3 years yet
@@jasonandrew5707 I worked for ford I had the pre edition
@@kevinkant6817😂 your a time traveler then... it's only been out for little over a year
Thank you - excellent analysis!
Very good detective work on finding out where the power problem is. Lots of important information here. Also, I did not miss that very interesting voltage meter you were using. Perhaps you can give me a clue on where to purchase one.
Amazon Ancel PB100
You have good content, as does Ray. You do you and let the Rainman do himself. Sometimes I prefer your channel, because Ford, and Ray's exploits go a little too long. No, not a brand fanboy. I just happen to have Fords, and one happens to be a hybrid.
We've had 2 in my shop so far with that faulty connection on the harness. That cable needs to be crimped not soldered.
Looks like they used cheap materials to build that good looking vehicle. Good video man 👍👍👍👍👍👍
I've experienced different electrical issues with all brands of vehicles including Toyota and I usually dred taking it in for warranty repairs because you never know what kind of technician you'll have working on your vehicle. With you, I feel the vehicle probably comes out better than factory. Factory just slaps shit together, you'll make sure everything is tight and right.
That's how I want it when I'm done - BETTER
Pretty neat! Thanks for showing this!
Thank you for this video. I’m having this exact issue and the dealer keeps saying they cant repeat the problem. I take the car back and in a couple days, it won’t start again.
Just happened to mine for a second time. They changed the battery the first time and it worked for a while but here we are again with the same issue.
Your best video in a while. Enjoyed watching all of it. I just realized it is a year old. HA HA
Yikes, it’s reasons like this why I don’t have a newer vehicle. Seems like nothing is built to last anymore.
Where are the Part's made? Or is that a Factor to even consider? Seem's a bit early to have corrosion working it's way through a New Vehicle?? Great Video Rich, and If it can be rebuilt I suppose that would work.
I wonder how often this would happen in a cold area like Minnesota where the vehicle sits outside at temperatures below zero.
Pretty sure the "Maverick Truck Forum" is littered with Hybrid Mavericks with this same problem.
Well now they can use this video
@@aj_aka_alan well now we're going to have a video to support the complaints and show a final repair
It looks like a supply chain problem, looks like the vendor used some poor grade metal coating on their bus bar strip and for them to start to have corrosion in a one year old vehicle that has to be driven in all kinds of climate area... that's a nightmare of electrical problems for years to come if they don't address this problem quickly. Thanks for the excellent detective work on this one
they were rolled off the assembly line and parked in grassy wet fields waiting for parts. Wouldn't be surprised if some of these are 2020's and they called them 2022's haha
Man glad I didn't get a 22. Just ordered 23' hopefully those won't have the issue
Good
Great informative vid!! Thanks
These are probably gonna have some bad gremlins in the salt belt!
Bus bars can work well when done right (I worked in industrial maintenance for a few years) but this is not how you do it. Far too many issues: 1.) Dissimilar metals. 2.) Multiple crimped contacts rather than bolted 3.) subject to massive heat cycles 4.) moisture found its way in 5.) no way to replace those two fuses
I wonder if someone power washed the engine bay? What does that blown fuse power?
I have to check on the fuse
i just had this happen ,thx ,good place to start
I want to see these at 10 years not less than 1....
@Fordbossme I wanted to check my on my own Maverick Hybrid and I had a hard time getting those 2 main connectors off of the top of the fuse block. Can you please show us the trick with on how to disconnect them off of the fuse box block. Thankyou for this video
Once you on snap the connectors you have to keep wiggling and pulling up eventually they pop off but don't go doing that because then you have to end up resetting the computer and if you don't have the tools to reset the computer you're going to set a bunch of codes
Wonder if a guy might use no-ox dielectric grease we used for aluminum wire contacts. it's a conductive grease.
Used it allot for boat dock electrical boxes with aluminum wire. I also used it for boat trailer wire connections and bulb sockets.
Just a thought.
I got it from a electrical supply store.
I pulled a 10 year old connection apart after being in and out of water and it looked like the day I made the connection.
Excellent suggestion. I use no-ox grease on my battery terminals with excellent results. No corrosion at all. The grease is high temperature and prevents galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals.
Having same issue now bout to show this vid to the mechanics 😂
Seems like most vehicles MY 2020+ have small but major issues like this. Disruptions in supply chain, rapid increase in labor and raw material cost has led to a knee jerk reaction quality reduction to reduce costs. It’s not just Ford. New models typically have some issues the first 1 or 2 model years but the aforementioned supply/labor issues have made the typical first model year issues much worse
Is there a reason why my 3.3 Na L has a vibration when I stop at a red light or when I put it in gear
If that was your personal vehicle what would you do as preventative maintenance for the corrosion? In fleet services and with my own GM vehicle with side post terminals I assemble everything with copper anti seize. I know some use dielectric or axle grease. But I like using something that promotes conduction. But idk if I would do that on a customer's vehicle.
Especially in the rust belt with water and or salt spray working its way under there.
I think spray it down with battery terminal protection once the connection is made
Thank you for showing the reason NOT to buy a hybrid Rich. So we have the hybrid corrosion collector and the 2.0 Eco boost carbon collector. We will stick with the V-8 N/A.
As always you do a hell of Good job Rich.
Ford has sold only a fraction of hybrids versus Toyota or Honda, what do you expect they are still gaining experience..
@@kenkozawa9810 Yes they are gaining experience via the American way; Guinea Pig the buyer who buys one. Really special. We don't care what Toyota or Honda are doing. USA first as much as possible unless of course if you prefer the current "Build back Better" horse manure.
@@reddog3544 sounds like a personal problem and some political angst. This is an international business world but you can continue to gimp yourself with your limited options!
@@kenkozawa9810 Putting the USA 1st isn't a personal problem. In my case it is a preference over kissing the world's ass like people who do. Political angst? No. Just prefer our way over communism. Lots of commie wana bees out there today. If you spent any time in military; you might have a better understanding instead of the shit you attempt to put out. Have a nice day.
@@reddog3544 it really sucks how jeep is a fiat product too. I watched guys buying new jeeps and they were breaking all kinds of ways right away
Good job Rick! Cheap Parts?🥵🥵🥵
Lots of engineering and material compromises are needed to produce a vehicle that has a starting MSRP under $20k.
Absolutely but this is not the place where you cut it
How about some pentrox on t hose bus bar connections. The out door climate will deter corrosion if coated properly Another item is torque on those . The plastic should be backlite it will with stand high heat loads. Some charging disconnect were plastic and melted because of continuous high amperage loads The fix was bakelite. Those fuses must be per manufactures specifications and used per ampere rating.
Current day spark distributor that needs protection when power washing
Hey great vids! Based on your experience, could the Maverick Hybrid be converted to plug in hybrid? And would it be difficult do you think?
Oh lol I have no idea
Piss on the whiners. Could you spray it down with something like Noco NCP2 once it's all put back together ? Nice work ,Boss.
Yes you sure can
wow, so new and these issues, how is it going to be when its 15 years old? Bad design or bad material?
rainman is my girlfriend lmao ,love both y'all's videos. why Ford didn't put some kind of coating on that doesn't make sense but hey I'm not the designer.
Extra cost. Beaten up by accountants.
I hope the EcoBoost maverick doesn't have the same crappy fuse box. Though I do have to wonder if salt on the roads had anything to do with it.
Cool video though. I have an XLT with Ecoboost in same color.
Thank you for sharing this informative and very well done vlog, your content can not be any more excellent, great job.Please keep it coming .To The Ford Boss internet Rock Star 100,000 ,000 Coming. From bodymanbob Northern Virginia ♥
Does the tester you're using test for the ability to carry amps?
Please do a follow up on this
I will, I'm digging in fresh tomorrow
👍 Nice job
What I don't get is:
1) If you buff it to bare metal, trying to get a clean contact, the bare will corrode unless you paint/varnish over everything.
2) If you put non-ox between the contacts, won't the non-ox itself interfere with the intimate connection?
In the Air Force, We used to pack landing gear switches (subject to rain/snow/ice/dirt intrusion) with potting grease. I always wondered if the grease would interfere with proper make/break of the contacts.
Is the fuzz "tin whiskers"?
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whisker_(metallurgy)
Those are good questions, and there are even debates within the industry about the use of dielectric grease. Suffice to say that you want a tight enough connection so that there is no space for water (and oxygen) to penetrate between the two surfaces. My experience is that it would be rare to have a poor connection when small quantities of dielectric grease are added before tightening down the bolt, and after that the chance of water penetration by surface tension is a lot lower. So you end up with a two step process, first clean (+/- cleaner), then add dielectric grease and tighten down. I think the tin whisker issue is more to do with microscopic short circuits on a board rather than the kind of high resistance open seen here. That excellent wiki reference describes the difference between dendritic formations and whiskers. The latter grows at right angles to the board, bridging gaps with conductive metal.
I get what you guys are saying but I'm also going to leave this with you I've never had a failure with the types of things that I feel comfortable doing in my career so I know you guys have the book answer in front of you and how you would like to see things done but that ain't going to happen all the time on this channel and I'm going to do what works for me simply because I have not seen failures doing it my way
Would a light film of dielectric grease applied at the factory have prevented this?
It could because this area is not very well protected there's some plastic over it but it's not sealed
looks like the same problem in the early 90's with corrosion in the fuse box, caused all types of problems, no start, hesitation, interior gauges faults, lighting faults. the fix was replace the fuse box but that meant that you also have to replace the harness molded into the box. had one come in with this problem, he asked to have the box replaced with a used one, did the job , all is fine. next customer comes in with lighting issues, fuse box again. i took some parts from the harness/fuse box and swapped to the original harness. took probable 2 hours as i am not a electronics person. it worked... but if you have to deal with these engineers that do not take into account the real world problems from environment, temperature, humidity, road conditions, customer habits (are you a rabbit or a snail), just my thoughts
This is terrible! All these issues should be recalled! I got a used 22 hybrid Maverick and at 15k miles it’s in dead mode in the driveway with an appointment at the dealer in a few days. Thankfully, it still has warranty so I’m not going to take it apart to investigate. Hopefully it’s an easy fix. Ford has been making some terrible and rushed decisions, making things cheap just to make a quick buck. This nonsense is going to hurt their reputation and hopefully their pocket.
There is a material and quality engineer out there who signed off on this. It makes you wonder.
Great Vid
My question is what other vehicle that Ford has used that same type of fuse box connection and how has the terminals been on those?
This is the only one using this so it has already been addressed a new harnesses is out
The 300A mega fuse on my 22 Maverick blew less than 5 miles after I picked it up from the dealership while I was driving. Truck lurched and suddenly lost acceleration and threw off all sorts of warnings. Any thoughts on why that would happen? Just straight shoddy parts?
Yep less than desirable parts
Thos thin plates are not the best solution and it should have a grease or coating to elevate corrosion
way to go again Rich
Rich do you think the ecoboost in the Maverick is a good engine?
Absolutely
We had a similar occurrence on products from china. Turned out the plating bath in China was "muddy" their words not mine. They changed it and problem went away. Now we know where the muddy plate solution went.
Rod
Since there seems to be alot of Ford techs here, let me just ask... what the heck is with the trans on my '22 Ranger? Its constantly shifting and I mean constantly and sometimes it bucks and jerks randomly when just driving on an open road. Love the truck, hate the trans. Are they failing alot?
Crap 10 speed trand
All 10 speeds are junk
i was looking at buying a hybrid maverick until i found out the hybrids dont come awd.
Do you need to use aluminum contact grease like Electrician’s use for house wiring panel to stop corrosion?
No you don't you just have to keep the moisture out of it which is why I use the big sleeve of industrial shrink wrap
WD 40 was designed for Water Displacement as well as a lubricant. Could use that for keeping out moisture.
Is this covered under the power train warranty?
Of course it is the vehicle only has a couple thousand miles on it you got a 5-year 60,000 mile warranty
Way, way too many points of failure. I can't understand what Ford was thinking when that was engineered. Rich, you better be careful. Keep solving issues like this and you'll become the go to guy for the whole dealership. A neverending stream of broken hybrids! Yikes.
It might be a little work but could a person that owns one of these vehicles that is working normally put some dielectric grease on the connections before corrosion sets in as a preventative measure?
Yes but let me finish today and give you a better idea of what I find is completely going on
@@FordBossMe i watched the latest video and I guess a little dielectric grease won't help what so ever. You did an amazing job fixing it, if I was the customer I would leave what you did it's way better than factory. You're amazing take care. 😇
For the 2nd time my 2022 ford maverick is dead for no reason. Soon as i jump it everything is fine. Fords needs to adress this issue
2nd time for me just now. They changed the battery out the first time despite my sending this video to the service people. That was 6 weeks ago.
Can you use di-electric grease to protect it?
Yes
@@FordBossMe instead of di-electric grease consider no-ox grease. Electricians use this grease on electrical panel service wires. It prevents oxidation/corrosion. It is high temperature. I use this grease on my battery terminal connectors and never had a problem. Great stuff.
Are the connectors copper underneath or just aluminum or?
Copper
My Maverick Hybrid died last night. Drove to get pizza. 5 minutes later dead as a door nail
9:45 heck ya brother get it got it done
Damn that sucks. For one I live in southern Georgia I can’t even buy a maverick hybrid. I have been looking. Guess I’ll just get a stupid Camry
Man once they get a few years in winter weather with salt they are going to be a nightmare
You say “so much corrosion” but it looks pretty minimal to me. But your voltage drop proves you are correct. Gotta wonder what the situation is going to be in the next couple of years.
It's a brand new vehicle I don't ask people to come here to critique me I want you guys to come here and learn so when you drop your little comments about so much corrosion and you don't specify when you leave your comment oh you did say you already cleaned a bunch of it off so yes that is a lot
Sorry if you thought I was critical. Not what I was conveying at all. Even after you cleaned it up you still had that voltage drop while I thought it still appeared almost spotless. So not all is as it appears. Keep up the great videos. The technical information is invaluable.
Should have a nickel coating on the copper to keep it from corroding obviously that plating is not good major problem I make aircraft parts
How much current did you run though the battery cable to test it? I'm having a hard time seeing what the problem would be in the fuse box once you cleaned it up. (At least short term) I'd be suspicious about the cable, or even the crimped leg on the end.
Bro we've addressed this fkn cable in the comment section several times, don't be a tape recorded and play the repeat game have some decency and atleast have a scroll
The cable isn't out of the question I CLEARLY MENTIONED ALL THAT AND GAVE A PART # but you clearly missed I still have a blown fuse that can be changed that has to be replaced
I had to wire wheel all my ring terminals and eyelets on my 98 Ford e250 now there's no electrical gremlins lurking in the van
Lmfao ray is my gf your a riot rich keep it up
Let's hope they fix that for the second year. Christ.
Would die electric greese help?
What I was thinking.
Dielectric grease would help keep moisture out but it doesn't help with connection it doesn't promote connectivity it's just an insulator
Is that all aluminum?
Not sure
the average age of cars on the road in america is now 12 years, this crazy shit is why. Who would pay 30 or 40k for these crazy experiments in engineering?
Well, these start at 20K, not 30k.
@@OhPhuckYou okie dokie 👌
don't mind the to the point style at all. Ignore the complainers.