Hey Bruce thank you for this video! I am thinking of attempting this myself because barn doors are so pricey! Can you give any update on how this door is holding up? Or anything you might have added that didn't turn out how you want?
Thanks for watching. I have gotten a lot of request for an update, so I just recoded a short video to showcase how it is holding up after 2 years. ua-cam.com/users/shortsvnJBq1c-Iqc
Love your analysis man. Please tell me how many teeth your saw has an how you can have perfect cuts! What is the procedure on painting. Primer, sand, coat, sand, coat? Thank you
Thanks for watching! the blade I am using is just a 24 tooth blade from Dewalt. Here is a 5 pack: amzn.to/2RaKoyn The secret is to use some kind of straight edge, have a sharp blade, and let the saw do the work. Go slow enough that you are not really pushing through the cut, you are more following the cut. Hopefully that makes sense. I go into a little more detail about this in this video: ua-cam.com/video/S_Yyxtkf2lM/v-deo.html For the painting technique, I add this to my paint: amzn.to/3eAV1na which seems to help smooth it out. I also use these instead of sandpaper: amzn.to/33vZpgF to sand in between (3) coats. for lack of better term, it almost heats up and smooths out the paint instead of sand it down. This helps cover up the grain in the wood, which was my goal for this project. Hope this helps!
Why not glue, then pin the slats with trim gun, then screw slats on from reverse side. No screw head filling only a few pin nail holes to puddy up ? Less work and way way cleaner job for painting/ staining
You could totally go that route, I choose the way i did it for 2 reasons: 1. I liked the more industrial look of the screw wholes on the front of the door vs the back of the door. Currently the inside of the door is just a clean slab which is just simple and clean. Where the front is already busy and textured. 2. It seemed like the simplest/strongest way to ensure the integrity of the connection between the slats and the back panel. Since they are such thin pieces there was a bunch of play when I was putting them in place. If you do go your route, i would encourage you to use a bunch of clamps to make sure they stay completely straight. The fun part of woodworking is there are so many different routes to choose from to make it a one of a kind piece. Best of luck with your project, and let me know if you run into any other questions!
Hi, nice door! I built one just like that and bought my hardware off of Ebay, however mine did not have the piece that goes at the bottom 😬. I had to figure out a way but for future references where did you get yours from please? Thank you for your help.
Not at all, I would suggest getting furniture grade plywood like I use in any home project and you won’t have this issue. This is the same plywood most custom cabinet builders use to build their boxes out of. Hope this helps :)
That are actually just strips I cut from the left over plywood after I cut the door. I cut them in 1” strips, but you could make them bigger if you prefer.
3/4 inch plywood. It’s a little more expensive then the sanded pine. But, accepts paint much better. Right now it’s only $80 per sheet at my local Lowe’s
@@jacoblidell3547 sorry, it was maple. Birch would be great too. I would just stay away from red oak since it is so hard to paint with the deep grain. Best of luck on your project.
@@jacoblidell3547 That sounds so cool. You will have to send me a picture when you are done. I find that maple has a lot more variation and fun knots. Where baltic birch is more of a simple elegant look. You can see the beautiful grain of Maple in this video ua-cam.com/video/N2NgQ1XXRl8/v-deo.html
Great question. Typically I charge 2-3x materials. For this detailed of a project, I would probably be closer to 3x and then I would also charge an hourly rate for installation if needed.
I was curious, my son's tell me that I don't charge enough for making my sliding barn doors. I charge materials + $200. For me , for a plain door No paint or stain. Does that seem too little to you.?...I'm retired and took up making many things, starting with flower boxes. Then someone asked if I can make a sliding door, then the phone does not stop ringing. I'm in Canada.
@@paulshaw9355 That does sound pretty low, I think industry standard is about 2x materials. But, some of it depends on how much your time is worth to you. How long does it take for you to do all the labor involved in installing the door?
Thanks for watching, I have used this method a number of times and have never had an issue. We have had all kinds of use including kids hanging on it (kids will be kids). You totally can add a wood rail if you are worried about it, but I am not a fan of that look.
I don't install..paint ...or stain...or deliver, I have customers pickup and take home and paint themselves..order hardware...and install to save money
Ok, then I feel like your pricing is pretty decent. I would try creeping it up $20-$50 and see if sales drops off. Try to find the balance between selling a bunch of them, yet not to many that you get burnt out.
Thanks for the feedback. I try my best to make the videos as informative yet, as short as possible. But, they tend to run long which is why I always add chapters so you can watch only the parts you care about. Hope it was helpful, albeit long :)
Hey Bruce thank you for this video! I am thinking of attempting this myself because barn doors are so pricey! Can you give any update on how this door is holding up? Or anything you might have added that didn't turn out how you want?
Thanks for watching. I have gotten a lot of request for an update, so I just recoded a short video to showcase how it is holding up after 2 years. ua-cam.com/users/shortsvnJBq1c-Iqc
I would have liked to see more of the completed door hanging.
Great point, I will put together a short update video to show all the components!
Here is an update on the final door and how it has held up after 2 years of use: ua-cam.com/users/shortsvnJBq1c-Iqc
Love your analysis man.
Please tell me how many teeth your saw has an how you can have perfect cuts!
What is the procedure on painting. Primer, sand, coat, sand, coat?
Thank you
Thanks for watching! the blade I am using is just a 24 tooth blade from Dewalt. Here is a 5 pack: amzn.to/2RaKoyn
The secret is to use some kind of straight edge, have a sharp blade, and let the saw do the work. Go slow enough that you are not really pushing through the cut, you are more following the cut. Hopefully that makes sense. I go into a little more detail about this in this video: ua-cam.com/video/S_Yyxtkf2lM/v-deo.html
For the painting technique, I add this to my paint: amzn.to/3eAV1na which seems to help smooth it out. I also use these instead of sandpaper: amzn.to/33vZpgF to sand in between (3) coats. for lack of better term, it almost heats up and smooths out the paint instead of sand it down. This helps cover up the grain in the wood, which was my goal for this project.
Hope this helps!
That looks sooooo cool!
Thanks! This might be one of our favorite projects we have done. Thanks for watching!
That's awesome! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Why not glue, then pin the slats with trim gun, then screw slats on from reverse side. No screw head filling only a few pin nail holes to puddy up ? Less work and way way cleaner job for painting/ staining
You could totally go that route, I choose the way i did it for 2 reasons: 1. I liked the more industrial look of the screw wholes on the front of the door vs the back of the door. Currently the inside of the door is just a clean slab which is just simple and clean. Where the front is already busy and textured.
2. It seemed like the simplest/strongest way to ensure the integrity of the connection between the slats and the back panel. Since they are such thin pieces there was a bunch of play when I was putting them in place. If you do go your route, i would encourage you to use a bunch of clamps to make sure they stay completely straight.
The fun part of woodworking is there are so many different routes to choose from to make it a one of a kind piece. Best of luck with your project, and let me know if you run into any other questions!
Hi, nice door!
I built one just like that and bought my hardware off of Ebay, however mine did not have the piece that goes at the bottom 😬. I had to figure out a way but for future references where did you get yours from please?
Thank you for your help.
Thanks so much for watching, I got this one and really like it so far: amzn.to/3RElOzp
@@beardedspruce thank you very much, I wish I looked into this before! It will be for my next project! Thanks again…
Great job
Thanks, It was a super fun project
I prefer to build with Woodglut plans.
I’ll have to check those out, thanks for sharing!
Thanks I’m going to give it a try
Awesome! Let me know how it goes and if you run into any questions.
Plywood tends to warp over time or dry out and crack when indoors, have you experienced any of this?
Not at all, I would suggest getting furniture grade plywood like I use in any home project and you won’t have this issue. This is the same plywood most custom cabinet builders use to build their boxes out of. Hope this helps :)
epic video dude! thanks for sharing
Thanks I really appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching
what type of wood did you use for those strips? Are they 2x2?
That are actually just strips I cut from the left over plywood after I cut the door. I cut them in 1” strips, but you could make them bigger if you prefer.
What kind of plywood did you use?
3/4 inch plywood. It’s a little more expensive then the sanded pine. But, accepts paint much better. Right now it’s only $80 per sheet at my local Lowe’s
Was it birch plywood? Or Baltic birch do you remember?
@@jacoblidell3547 sorry, it was maple. Birch would be great too. I would just stay away from red oak since it is so hard to paint with the deep grain. Best of luck on your project.
Okay thank you I’m planning on making that same door but staining it I just don’t know what would be better Baltic birch or maple. Any suggestions?
@@jacoblidell3547 That sounds so cool. You will have to send me a picture when you are done. I find that maple has a lot more variation and fun knots. Where baltic birch is more of a simple elegant look. You can see the beautiful grain of Maple in this video ua-cam.com/video/N2NgQ1XXRl8/v-deo.html
What $ would you charge for that door?
Great question. Typically I charge 2-3x materials. For this detailed of a project, I would probably be closer to 3x and then I would also charge an hourly rate for installation if needed.
Sorry, just realized I was signed in under a different user name. That is my answer above 👆
I was curious, my son's tell me that I don't charge enough for making my sliding barn doors. I charge materials + $200. For me , for a plain door No paint or stain. Does that seem too little to you.?...I'm retired and took up making many things, starting with flower boxes. Then someone asked if I can make a sliding door, then the phone does not stop ringing.
I'm in Canada.
@@paulshaw9355 That does sound pretty low, I think industry standard is about 2x materials. But, some of it depends on how much your time is worth to you. How long does it take for you to do all the labor involved in installing the door?
Salaam alaikum
Those anchors aren't sturdy enough put a wood rail at top with 2 pieces of casing along side opening. Super Sturdy
Thanks for watching, I have used this method a number of times and have never had an issue. We have had all kinds of use including kids hanging on it (kids will be kids). You totally can add a wood rail if you are worried about it, but I am not a fan of that look.
@@beardedspruce Loved the slat door, been visioning a project involving slats. So many ways to construct cooleness
The door hardware alone is around $80 bucks probably over $100 now with inflation caused by democtats
It is a bummer, just as wood is starting to drop. Everything else is on the rise.
I don't install..paint ...or stain...or deliver, I have customers pickup and take home and paint themselves..order hardware...and install to save money
Ok, then I feel like your pricing is pretty decent. I would try creeping it up $20-$50 and see if sales drops off. Try to find the balance between selling a bunch of them, yet not to many that you get burnt out.
Thank you very much for your help
Tumbleweed woodworking
Paul
So much "no" in this build. Lol.
Not sure what you mean, can you explain? Thanks
That video is 10 min too long
Thanks for the feedback. I try my best to make the videos as informative yet, as short as possible. But, they tend to run long which is why I always add chapters so you can watch only the parts you care about. Hope it was helpful, albeit long :)