My 360 developed the pin striping and freezing issue, and then RROD. I used this video as a guide to reflow the GPU. I used an X-Tronic 4040 rework station and a Type-K thermal sensor taped to the GPU die with polyamide tape to monitor the temp. I had to crank the heat up to around 400C to get the chip to around 230C for a minute. This BGA can sink a ton of heat into the power and gnd planes. I got my 360 back up and running. Thanks for this useful video.
@Logoseum flexing is not the only issue when using a preheater like this. Another reason I would recommend bolting the board down is to elevate it off the griddle. I find it to be very risky that you are resting the board directly onto the griddle because there are components on both sides of the board. When you have components making direct contact with the preheater you run the risk of either damaging/burning the components or having them fall off if the solder is melted, just my 2 cents
@1337cookie The bolts do exactly the same as the clamps. The clamps have added support for the chips. You can see this if you look at the clamps...in the middle is the support, which btw, does not pull on anything. So if the clamps pulled the board & make it warp, the bolts do the same thing. Without the clamps, next time your system overheats, the board can warp enough to let the chip pull away from the heat sinks.
The steps are quite easy, you just have to make sure to get the right temps for the right time. I usually go 100c for 60 sec, 195c for 60 sec, 290 for 40 sec, 320c for 20 sec, 350c for 20 sec, then down to 290c for 10 sec, then down to 100c asap, and when it reaches that temp, turn it off. Just gotta heat the gpu, and sometimes a good idea to heat the cpu as well.
@Obsidianangel7 1) Scan the mainboard and make sure that there is nothing that might short something out, like metal chipping, components, that moved out of place while reflowing, etc. - Especially in the CPU area 2) Replace MOSFETs and regulators that are known to cause it if they were blown 3) Check if the standby voltages are existent, if they are not at a certain area replace the parts in the area which are likely to be defective.
also read up on Restriction of Hazardous Substances Directive thats the reason why we have lead free solder not b/c its some kinda benefit. why do you think any electronics item before 2006 didnt have these issues? b/c they used leaded solder. same problems with hp laptops like dv2000 dv6000 and other dv models of that era
the tape will insulate part of the chip giving you and uneven rework. place the sensor right next to it on the board. if using a homemade setup drill holes in the skillet and get the board off of the griddle as the board will not lay flat. also take a camera and make sure your getting even flow or even better 5 temp sensors there cheap, one bottom and one on each side right next to the chip the probe almost touching the solder balls those cheap rework stations are notorious for giving uneven heat. also when reinstalling x clamps sand down the stand off in the case as they are higher causing the board to warp. if you use bolts make sure to go through the bottom of the case not inside as it will cause it warp. Good luck
@Okejee oh yeah...forgot to ad. I would definitely keep the xclamps. If you look at them, there is a support in the middle of them to keep the chips in good contact with the heat sink. Does not make any sense to use bolts instead & loose that support!
@FeeLtheHertZ A proper reflow requires much higher temperatures than can be generated while running the system without a heatsink. Were talking 220C with is like 500F
Using bga technology to solder high temperature chips is the worst idea in technology yet. I however recently discovered a completely brand new technique in one of Germany workshops, they remove the chip and than solder some kind of socket with pins up to the circuit board. The socket looks like the one where laptop processors are inserted excepted it has lots of tiny needle pins facing up and down, and the graphics chip no longer has bga grid but has plain flat surface. In short between the circuit board and the chip itself there is no longer a bga grid but a little square peace with little needle springs that work as a contact between chip and circuit board. And no matter how high your graphics chip will overheat or how bad your circuit board will start deforming the spring pin solution will always automatically adjust under the surface or temperature.
@eraldorh prob shouldn't jump in here but your actually wrong. liquid flux should be applied in between the bga chip and the motherboard before a reflow it prevents oxidization of the solder joints during the reflow process and it cleans the joints of impurities and ensures a stronger joint after the reflow. Tacky flux is needed in reballing to help attatch the new solderballs to the board and then again to attatch the chip to the board. look at any good reflow video and you will see flux used
@VitalPros You can mount the motherboard without drilling standoff bolts as long as you keep the temperature thermostat under 350F The motherboard is closer to the heat source with a lower temp, it's the same either way.
@MrJimbobjoeyman No..... The reason YOU are wrong is because he did not remove the gpu he just heated it to the point where the solder would melt or at leats be soft enough to form back into a solid solder instead of cracks which is what your repairing. You would only need flux if the gpu is removed from the board and in this case i did not see this happen.
i wouldn't say this is permanent as you sill are using the old lead free solder, which is the problem to begin with. if you re soldered the gpu with lead solder and re seated it then that would be a permanent fix
@Randypants713 Make sure you use the Arctic Silver 5 paste & apply it correctly. How to do that on their web site. I had to do a fan mod to get my box to quit overheating. I hooked the case fans up to an external 12v DC power supply & no problems since. I think once the box overheats (because of dirt on heat sinks) it damages the mechanism that controls fan speed & the fans don't move enough air across heat sinks to cool them.
@Logoseum I don't understand what you mean. The board will flex due to the heat stress so bolting the board to the griddle will prevent that. I'm very surprised that you claim to do many reflows without any support of the motherboard. It sounds crazy. What is the board resting on?
I know this is an old video, but it's still popping up in recent searches. Some concerns are the lack of use of flux and not protecting the capacitors from all that heat. Was cost a concern in not using polymer caps?
@stiv2k Precautions need to be taken on rigs with top and bottom IR heaters since they are so extremely fast heat profiles. There is no flexing danger on hot air systems. I have proven it so many times.
a reflow only heats up the tin solder under the RSX GPU to form back into ball form and then reconnect onto the motherboard. Problem with this method is that it isnt such a fix and the tin solder will stress crack again and later on can cause tin whiskers. If a tin whisker makes contact with another tin solder ball sphere it will short out and kill your motherboard on the console. Reballing with lead based solder spheres is the better fix to this problem.
I don't use stand-off bolts, it just sits right on there. But because of the contact I can not exceed 350F or the motherboards plastic nubs on the bottom start to melt.
This is a cool video, my only concern would be make sure you don't have any tension on the thermal sensor attached to the chip because it could pull the chip off the solder once it hits 210^C. Would it be just as effective to put the sensor directly next to the chip? Or possibly underneath the board?
@carriev77 All RROD's are caused by the same thing, cracking of the GPU solder joints. You will need to get you XBox 360 motherboard's GPU reballed at this point.
Since I clean all the old thermo paste off I replace it with arctic silver 5. I reassemble the heat sinks with washers and bolts method. see my other videos on reassembly. Especially the close video should explain it all.
Nice setup but you should use a board support because you are risking component damage as the chips are setting directly on the heating plate and therefore much much hotter than what your thermometer is reading at the chip I personally like to use dual thermometers just in case one should become inaccurate and start reading to hi or low.
part1: i've done the GPU fixes to xboxes for friends. for anyone griping about the griddle i can say this much the flex thing isn't an issue. mount a cam longitudally with aspect on the griddle&board with a close up. There is no flex. if there was any flex at all this fix wouldnt even work so i dont know why ppl are saying that. everyone thinks they have a better way than the next guy. but in all honesty short of removing the hardware and re-soldering it u can never be sure it's a lasting fix.
0001-0003 has to do with power. 0003 is specifically the CPU. What sucks is I had a CPU reballed and it blew the MOSFETS, got an 0002. You may need to reball the CPU, check something is shorted or a bad cap. Check the power supply. This will mostly fix 0102, but I don't recommend putting it directly on the skillet. It will most likely smash the balls on the 4 underside RAM chips, you'll end up with an 0110 or worse, drop some of the tiny components :(
Is this a special "arm" for the hot air soldering iron? Or a part of a "heating plate" under this pcb? Would you call the name of your equipment? For example, there is a Aoyue 968 hot air station.
I do not recommend laying the griddle directly on the griddle drill holes into the griddle and mount your 360 and TIGHTEN the thing down for god sake. you will flex the board.
Does your Aoyue 968 suffer from an uneven heatflow? Mine can have a good 40 degree difference between each side of the chip, even after attempting to calibrate it.
@Randypants713 Sounds like a problem with your cooling system. Did you use good thermo paste like Arctic 5 Silver did you put enough on the chips? Is the heat sinks attached and making good contact with the chips?
I know exactly what was done here. This was a reflow not a reball You dont need flux for the process but the repair lasts alot longer if you use it because you end up with stronger cleaner joints after the reflow. Fair enough you have your own thoughts about this and Im not going to force anything on you but flux is recommended for all reflow and reball work by solder and bga manufacturers.
are you putting the mobo directly on the griddle? if you are, careful you'll end up with an 0110 from the balls smashing on the bottom RAM chips. I use spacers
@thedemon1366 I got a bad one before. You can try a netted nozzle although, it didn't help me much. Good luck with it. You could try a new heat element. I gave up on it before that though.....
@Randypants713 They use lead free solder. Lead free solder sucks because it has a lower melting point. But the Gov don't want any lead in electronics because its harmful.
I have to agree with this post you may not see the board flexing but it is even if it is much less than with other methods and if it gets a cool breeze on cool down it will flex even more and undue all your hard work or even kill you Board by pulling solder contacts off the chips board supports are not that expensive although they are a little hard to find if you like I can give you a link?
whats the usual time expectancy one of your xboxs will have after a reflow? like how many hours of game play would one of your xboxs additionally get after a reflow?
ictdude1 These are not (expensive) "very accurate high tech tools". These are the asian/chinese budget tools. Like the aoyue 968 Hot air Station. On ebay USA, used for 50 dollars. New for 160 dollars and free shipping (in the US). A simple 13mm x 13mm nozzle for a xbox 360 gpu chip arround $13 and free shipping from china. But I can not see the type of this heating plate with the holder arm (very interesting) for the hot air iron ;-) . And what type of hardware and software is this thermometer? There are USB boxes for ~$25 from china with included "K-Type" sensor to measure 0°C - 1024°C. I think, this is not a automated process. What type of heating "table" with holder is this? Can the pc software control the heating hardware? For the Aoyue 968, the hot air, I think, "No way". I think, a usual stand alone digital thermometer (or IR Thermometer with K-Type input jack) would do the same. Because, he can not run a "profile" with automatic control of the heating hardware. Or am I wrong? OK, USB hardware could be cheaper (and due to the weight and size cheap or free shipping from china)... But in actual fact, it seems this pc visualized temperature measurement is "show" ;-) .
How long did this fix last? How many hours ran the console? I used a heat gun without a heating source on the GPU and CPU that had the RROD. It lasted me only two weeks with console running for about 3 or 4 hours.
That's why I only heat underneath to 350F or else the motherboards little plastic nubs will start to melt. I would crank it up to 500F if I used stand-off's.
Is this 100% permanent? I cooked my PS3 in the oven for 10 mins at 400f and it worked for 3 months. Granted I used no flux on it, but going to repair mine for a 2nd time with no clean flux and repair a friends PS3 as well. I was told no reflow is permanent since you are keeping the lead free solder on the processors. If you have this machine why aren't you reballing instead with lead based solder?
@Logoseum He is correct heatgun is know way to fix these consoles i hate all these comments i kepp seeing on all video;s like yours such as ohh a towl can do this or a x-clamp fix. This is a perm FIX! What nozel size do you use for GPU reflows?
My 360 developed the pin striping and freezing issue, and then RROD. I used this video as a guide to reflow the GPU. I used an X-Tronic 4040 rework station and a Type-K thermal sensor taped to the GPU die with polyamide tape to monitor the temp. I had to crank the heat up to around 400C to get the chip to around 230C for a minute. This BGA can sink a ton of heat into the power and gnd planes. I got my 360 back up and running. Thanks for this useful video.
@Logoseum flexing is not the only issue when using a preheater like this. Another reason I would recommend bolting the board down is to elevate it off the griddle. I find it to be very risky that you are resting the board directly onto the griddle because there are components on both sides of the board. When you have components making direct contact with the preheater you run the risk of either damaging/burning the components or having them fall off if the solder is melted, just my 2 cents
@Okejee
The clamps pull down around the board and make it warp. Strait bolts pull the heat sink strait down rather than down and inwards.
@1337cookie The bolts do exactly the same as the clamps. The clamps have added support for the chips.
You can see this if you look at the clamps...in the middle is the support, which btw, does not pull on anything. So if the clamps pulled the board & make it warp, the bolts do the same thing. Without the clamps, next time your system overheats, the board can warp enough to let the chip pull away from the heat sinks.
The steps are quite easy, you just have to make sure to get the right temps for the right time. I usually go 100c for 60 sec, 195c for 60 sec, 290 for 40 sec, 320c for 20 sec, 350c for 20 sec, then down to 290c for 10 sec, then down to 100c asap, and when it reaches that temp, turn it off. Just gotta heat the gpu, and sometimes a good idea to heat the cpu as well.
@Obsidianangel7 1) Scan the mainboard and make sure that there is nothing that might short something out, like metal chipping, components, that moved out of place while reflowing, etc. - Especially in the CPU area
2) Replace MOSFETs and regulators that are known to cause it if they were blown
3) Check if the standby voltages are existent, if they are not at a certain area replace the parts in the area which are likely to be defective.
also read up on Restriction of Hazardous Substances Directive thats the reason why we have lead free solder not b/c its some kinda benefit. why do you think any electronics item before 2006 didnt have these issues? b/c they used leaded solder. same problems with hp laptops like dv2000 dv6000 and other dv models of that era
the tape will insulate part of the chip giving you and uneven rework. place the sensor right next to it on the board. if using a homemade setup drill holes in the skillet and get the board off of the griddle as the board will not lay flat. also take a camera and make sure your getting even flow or even better 5 temp sensors there cheap, one bottom and one on each side right next to the chip the probe almost touching the solder balls those cheap rework stations are notorious for giving uneven heat. also when reinstalling x clamps sand down the stand off in the case as they are higher causing the board to warp. if you use bolts make sure to go through the bottom of the case not inside as it will cause it warp. Good luck
Should definitely drench the thing with water soluble flux(viscosity is low enough to get under there).
@Okejee oh yeah...forgot to ad. I would definitely keep the xclamps. If you look at them, there is a support in
the middle of them to keep the chips in good contact with the heat sink. Does not make any sense to use bolts
instead & loose that support!
@Logoseum You are supposed to bolt down the motherboard to the preheater or some other rigid device otherwise the board will flex!
@FeeLtheHertZ A proper reflow requires much higher temperatures than can be generated while running the system without a heatsink. Were talking 220C with is like 500F
@stiv2k That is why I do not exceed 350F on the lower heater. Anything above that and the plastic nubs will start to melt.
Using bga technology to solder high temperature chips is the worst idea in technology yet. I however recently discovered a completely brand new technique in one of Germany workshops, they remove the chip and than solder some kind of socket with pins up to the circuit board. The socket looks like the one where laptop processors are inserted excepted it has lots of tiny needle pins facing up and down, and the graphics chip no longer has bga grid but has plain flat surface. In short between the circuit board and the chip itself there is no longer a bga grid but a little square peace with little needle springs that work as a contact between chip and circuit board. And no matter how high your graphics chip will overheat or how bad your circuit board will start deforming the spring pin solution will always automatically adjust under the surface or temperature.
@eraldorh
prob shouldn't jump in here but your actually wrong.
liquid flux should be applied in between the bga chip and the motherboard before a reflow
it prevents oxidization of the solder joints during the reflow process and it cleans the joints of impurities and ensures a stronger joint after the reflow.
Tacky flux is needed in reballing to help attatch the new solderballs to the board and then again to attatch the chip to the board.
look at any good reflow video and you will see flux used
@Anthi174 The base heater is just a Presto griddle. The USB thermocouple is from omega.com part number UTC-USB.
@VitalPros You can mount the motherboard without drilling standoff bolts as long as you keep the temperature thermostat under 350F The motherboard is closer to the heat source with a lower temp, it's the same either way.
@MrJimbobjoeyman No..... The reason YOU are wrong is because he did not remove the gpu he just heated it to the point where the solder would melt or at leats be soft enough to form back into a solid solder instead of cracks which is what your repairing.
You would only need flux if the gpu is removed from the board and in this case i did not see this happen.
@1masterdany1 The thermocouple setup is separate from omega.com which is a k-type thermocouple and usb kit.
@TheHowToGuy18 no, the airflow shoots straight down plus a size #4141 is too big to generate such pressure.
the griddle is genious! well done sir :)
i wouldn't say this is permanent as you sill are using the old lead free solder, which is the problem to begin with. if you re soldered the gpu with lead solder and re seated it then that would be a permanent fix
@Randypants713 Make sure you use the Arctic Silver 5 paste & apply it correctly. How to do that on their web site. I had to do a fan mod to get my box to quit overheating. I hooked the case fans up to an external 12v DC
power supply & no problems since. I think once the box overheats (because of dirt on heat sinks) it damages
the mechanism that controls fan speed & the fans don't move enough air across heat sinks to cool them.
@Logoseum I don't understand what you mean. The board will flex due to the heat stress so bolting the board to the griddle will prevent that. I'm very surprised that you claim to do many reflows without any support of the motherboard. It sounds crazy. What is the board resting on?
I know this is an old video, but it's still popping up in recent searches. Some concerns are the lack of use of flux and not protecting the capacitors from all that heat. Was cost a concern in not using polymer caps?
@stiv2k Precautions need to be taken on rigs with top and bottom IR heaters since they are so extremely fast heat profiles. There is no flexing danger on hot air systems. I have proven it so many times.
a reflow only heats up the tin solder under the RSX GPU to form back into ball form and then reconnect onto the motherboard. Problem with this method is that it isnt such a fix and the tin solder will stress crack again and later on can cause tin whiskers. If a tin whisker makes contact with another tin solder ball sphere it will short out and kill your motherboard on the console.
Reballing with lead based solder spheres is the better fix to this problem.
@123martyb It's a flat panel LCD display desk-mount arm.
@MtxBeatsAllDay I just lay it directly, and keep the temperature under 350F. Any higher can start to melt the plastic positioning nubs.
I don't use stand-off bolts, it just sits right on there. But because of the contact I can not exceed 350F or the motherboards plastic nubs on the bottom start to melt.
@kevinjammal The heating element comes with a holder, I used JB Weld to glue it to the control arm mounting plate.
This is a cool video, my only concern would be make sure you don't have any tension on the thermal sensor attached to the chip because it could pull the chip off the solder once it hits 210^C. Would it be just as effective to put the sensor directly next to the chip? Or possibly underneath the board?
@longbeach225 lead free solder has a HIGHER melting point as opposed to lead free solder
@carriev77 All RROD's are caused by the same thing, cracking of the GPU solder joints. You will need to get you XBox 360 motherboard's GPU reballed at this point.
@TheNicktito It's a LCD flat panel display arm.
@acejoker74 It's a LCD desktop mounting arm.
the nozzle is #4141
Since I clean all the old thermo paste off I replace it with arctic silver 5. I reassemble the heat sinks with washers and bolts method. see my other videos on reassembly. Especially the close video should explain it all.
Nice setup but you should use a board support because you are risking component damage as the chips are setting directly on the heating plate and therefore much much hotter than what your thermometer is reading at the chip I personally like to use dual thermometers just in case one should become inaccurate and start reading to hi or low.
part1: i've done the GPU fixes to xboxes for friends. for anyone griping about the griddle i can say this much the flex thing isn't an issue. mount a cam longitudally with aspect on the griddle&board with a close up. There is no flex. if there was any flex at all this fix wouldnt even work so i dont know why ppl are saying that. everyone thinks they have a better way than the next guy. but in all honesty short of removing the hardware and re-soldering it u can never be sure it's a lasting fix.
0001-0003 has to do with power. 0003 is specifically the CPU. What sucks is I had a CPU reballed and it blew the MOSFETS, got an 0002. You may need to reball the CPU, check something is shorted or a bad cap. Check the power supply. This will mostly fix 0102, but I don't recommend putting it directly on the skillet. It will most likely smash the balls on the 4 underside RAM chips, you'll end up with an 0110 or worse, drop some of the tiny components :(
@joenemo651 It took a good 30 minutes but I edited the video down and sped up certain sections to fit it in 10 minutes.
@PabloEdvardo It comes in a kit try looking for UTC-USB
Is this a special "arm" for the hot air soldering iron?
Or a part of a "heating plate" under this pcb?
Would you call the name of your equipment?
For example, there is a Aoyue 968 hot air station.
@lindholmaren This is how you reflow an xbox with an rrod. So it improves the xbox by making it work.
I do not recommend laying the griddle directly on the griddle drill holes into the griddle and mount your 360 and TIGHTEN the thing down for god sake. you will flex the board.
Does your Aoyue 968 suffer from an uneven heatflow? Mine can have a good 40 degree difference between each side of the chip, even after attempting to calibrate it.
@Randypants713 Sounds like a problem with your cooling system. Did you use good thermo paste like Arctic 5 Silver did you put enough on the chips? Is the heat sinks attached and making good contact with the chips?
why are u calling a kitchen skillet a "base heating unit" like its some technical piece of machinery?
Also I used some velcro tape on the heating element to firmly secure it to its holder.
Hey, I upgraded my setup to the T-8280 Ir preheater plate, worth it. I think you should think about upgrading yours.
I know exactly what was done here.
This was a reflow not a reball
You dont need flux for the process but the repair lasts alot longer if you use it because you end up with stronger cleaner joints after the reflow.
Fair enough you have your own thoughts about this and Im not going to force anything on you but flux is recommended for all reflow and reball work by solder and bga manufacturers.
I go by the thermocouple temp not the heating element.
are you putting the mobo directly on the griddle? if you are, careful you'll end up with an 0110 from the balls smashing on the bottom RAM chips. I use spacers
@thedemon1366 I got a bad one before. You can try a netted nozzle although, it didn't help me much. Good luck with it. You could try a new heat element. I gave up on it before that though.....
@Randypants713 They use lead free solder. Lead free solder sucks because it has a lower melting point. But the Gov don't want any lead in electronics because its harmful.
I have to agree with this post you may not see the board flexing but it is even if it is much less than with other methods and if it gets a cool breeze on cool down it will flex even more and undue all your hard work or even kill you Board by pulling solder contacts off the chips board supports are not that expensive although they are a little hard to find if you like I can give you a link?
@Logoseum wont that blow off the chip when you get the solder balls melted.
@stiv2k I have never had any board flexing problems because I do not bolt.
@irish33323 please dude provide SOME additional info regarding "griddle makes it worse"
thx
@danguy2009 I'm using a LCD flat panel display arm that is desk mounted.
Hi , what is the profile settings for the xbox 360 slim???? , greetings from Colombia!!
Hi !
Good video, the reflow no needed clear flux ?
I have been trying to find a stand for my rework station. Where did you purchase yours or did you make it?
@Randypants713 Some people use standoffs, I don't but can not go over 350 degrees F
I use the X-tronic 4000 as a upper heater and the T-8280 as the bottom heater. GPU lift with no problems
reflow is not permanent solution reball is better than reflow
@longbeach225 There's a reason not to use leaded solder. It will explode! I ruined a tv once using it. lol
whats the usual time expectancy one of your xboxs will have after a reflow? like how many hours of game play would one of your xboxs additionally get after a reflow?
were do you get the stand to hold the heat thing
Excuse me ... could you please tell me what is that device that you use
and for what you use it.... I know that more heat will damage the chip...
what are the tools that are necessary for the full reflow process
alot of fakin money ;( they are very accurate and high tech tools
ictdude1
These are not (expensive) "very accurate high tech tools".
These are the asian/chinese budget tools.
Like the aoyue 968 Hot air Station. On ebay USA, used for 50 dollars. New for 160 dollars and free shipping (in the US).
A simple 13mm x 13mm nozzle for a xbox 360 gpu chip arround $13 and free shipping from china.
But I can not see the type of this heating plate with the holder arm (very interesting) for the hot air iron ;-) .
And what type of hardware and software is this thermometer?
There are USB boxes for ~$25 from china with included "K-Type" sensor to measure 0°C - 1024°C.
I think, this is not a automated process.
What type of heating "table" with holder is this?
Can the pc software control the heating hardware? For the Aoyue 968, the hot air, I think, "No way".
I think, a usual stand alone digital thermometer (or IR Thermometer with K-Type input jack) would do the same.
Because, he can not run a "profile" with automatic control of the heating hardware.
Or am I wrong?
OK, USB hardware could be cheaper (and due to the weight and size cheap or free shipping from china)...
But in actual fact, it seems this pc visualized temperature measurement is "show" ;-) .
How long did this fix last? How many hours ran the console? I used a heat gun without a heating source on the GPU and CPU that had the RROD. It lasted me only two weeks with console running for about 3 or 4 hours.
Three months.
I used a table top for my "stand" which I clamp my flat panel adjusting arm to. The other part is the griddle, so I guess I made my own stand.
What is the name of your usb Thermometer interface?
What are you using to hold the nozzle above the motherboard?
Would this stop my xbox from freezing during gameplay?
where can i get all tools needed to reflow the gpu?
I reflowed my 360 slim, put new thermal paste and when I turn it on, it blinks red then shuts off after 5 seconds, any ideas?
Hollywood Devil usually shut downs are caused by over heating and happens to protect the processor.
Joe Howard it's only on for 5 seconds then shuts off, doesn't have time to get any heat
Where do you buy the temp sensor with graphic display?
90 days with a 90 day warranty. As for hours of gameplay logged, I have no idea.
Do you need a license to reflow / reball peoples machines on craigslist?. can i get in trouble? plz reply
What's the power level on that thing? IT'S OVER 9000!!!
Why would you even need to do this? Is it to fix a RROD issue?
Where could I get the thermocouple sensor?
How often do you get returns for this profile?
That's why I only heat underneath to 350F or else the motherboards little plastic nubs will start to melt. I would crank it up to 500F if I used stand-off's.
Is this 100% permanent? I cooked my PS3 in the oven for 10 mins at 400f and it worked for 3 months. Granted I used no flux on it, but going to repair mine for a 2nd time with no clean flux and repair a friends PS3 as well.
I was told no reflow is permanent since you are keeping the lead free solder on the processors. If you have this machine why aren't you reballing instead with lead based solder?
@Logoseum thanks
what is the air flow you use
@Logoseum ok just wondering
422C is that not too hot? does it fail after a month?
why should you do this in what way does it improve the xbox?
@trabang Would you like bacon with that?
@Logoseum No I prefer homefries with my cooked xenon!!
A reball isn't permanent either. Believe it or not, LEAD FREE SOLDER holds up to thermal cycling better vs LEAD, therefore LEAD FREE SOLDER IS BETTER
@asbo436 A lot of XBox 360 web sites use my video on their site. I hope they give me credit.
Hey nice job, i wish i bought that instead of the 1200 rig we have at our shop @ maxxx electronics, lol. i would've saved a lot.
Really? You know lead free solder can grow tin whiskers and destroy electronics?
@jackjack121 yes it will
@Logoseum He is correct heatgun is know way to fix these consoles i hate all these comments i kepp seeing on all video;s like yours such as ohh a towl can do this or a x-clamp fix. This is a perm FIX!
What nozel size do you use for GPU reflows?