Great progress , had me totally bamboozled at times watching the video ! In this day and age the paper hard copy manuals should be supported by easy to understand step by step videos for the build provided by the manufacturer . Crack on , you are doing a great job -if I was building it , it would probably end up as a pile of bent tubes :-)
Enjoyed that Nick. You could see the old grey matter working hard there for a while. Glad you got it sorted. It is nice to be getting useful advice in the comments. The UA-cam aviation community coming together again!
Great show Nick thanks for taking the time to explain the difficulties you have in detail. I am thinking of building a Nynja myself soon and am finding this verry helpful most videos online just show a quick time-lapse from start to finish without explaining the finer details so great work keep it up
Thank you for watching! Im quite far in now and to be honest - it really is an achievable goal. I’m trying to highlight some of the issues I’ve had so it can be a resource for others. It’s incredibly rewarding so far and I genuinely can’t get enough of it!
I can only imagine how daunting it is for you to build this kit. If i may respectfully sugest the following to help you. You could do with covering all the concrete under your work area so as not to damage the powder coating on the frame as well as using padding to stop the tubes knocking against each other during the build up. You have great steel girders above your head, use them with straps to support your frame during the build. With diferent lengths they will be you other pair of hands. Put an 8x4 sheet of board on your tressels and you will have a much better workstation. I hope this helps.
Hi Peter! Thanks for watching! Yes - it was very daunting at the beginning but after a few days I got into the swing of it and it is coming together very quickly! Rest assured the tubes have never touched the concrete, they are all lay out on dust sheets and have been rubbed down with ACF50! The frame is currently sat quite nicely on padded trestles and is well supported. The legs and wheels are also now on and so is the rear fuselage! Anna has been a great. “Other pair of hands” throughout the build! The 8x4 was a really good idea though - I wish I’d known that when I started! Thanks again for watching!
My advice and methods that might help. Remember bolt convention has bolts going from top to bottom or front to rear unless otherwise instructed. Torque up bolts (There standard torque setting if they are not given n the instruction, don't just do it with a ratchet) to finish torque and mark with (Dykem Cross Check Tamper Proof Torque Seal Mark Marker Paste for Nuts & Bolts) so you can see which ones have been done and also you can see if the bolts have moved at annual, better than a paint pen. You should not need locktight on a nyloc nut. I like the format of the video, I hope that is not too much work on the edit.
Thank you! There is no torque setting for the nuts and bolts. With it being aluminium tubes you have to do them up tight enough not to distort the tubes but there is definitely no torque settings. The paste is a good idea for sure - thank you! The manual does indeed say to use locktite 243 on all nyloc nuts and bolts…
@@LetsGoFlying I have to admit that I didn't know that they were unsupported tubes, so snug is good. It's unusual to use loctight with nyloc but belt and braces is OK, at least you know it will not come undone in flight.
Will make sure to watch the rest. Do you rent the space? I'm considering factory built swift or nynja. But quite temped to build one or maybe new KFA. But need a space to do it! Don't have it home. Guess it's just hanger rental with or without intact plane. Also lol "at I made a thing!" Have been a subscriber for while under a different name. 'M B'
Thanks for watching! Yes it is indeed like mecano! There’s no torques on the airframe. The nyloc nuts are backed up with loctite and tightened enough that they are tight but don’t distort the aluminium tubes. The structure is incredibly strong once all the supports are in place. There is a great drop test video on Facebook!
600kg - incredibly strong structure, comfy seats, lovely instrument spec as standard, STOL performance and a max speed in rough air up to 96kts which for a microlight will give good real world touring capability for someone who likes to “fly to the numbers”
I too am building a skyranger swift 600kg 912s and have gone through just what you discribe .well done paul m herts
Oh that’s amazing! How is it going? Where are you up to? Tell me all…!
You don't work at a "medium sized company on six hills way" in Stevenage do you? Probably not the same Paul M!
Great stuff nick! Amazing progress.
Great progress , had me totally bamboozled at times watching the video ! In this day and age the paper hard copy manuals should be supported by easy to understand step by step videos for the build provided by the manufacturer . Crack on , you are doing a great job -if I was building it , it would probably end up as a pile of bent tubes :-)
Great job - keep it up!
Enjoyed that Nick. You could see the old grey matter working hard there for a while. Glad you got it sorted. It is nice to be getting useful advice in the comments. The UA-cam aviation community coming together again!
Coming along nicely! Glad the pipe was the right way around 😂
Thanks mate! Yes it was indeed a relief!
Great show Nick thanks for taking the time to explain the difficulties you have in detail.
I am thinking of building a Nynja myself soon and am finding this verry helpful most videos online just show a quick time-lapse from start to finish without explaining the finer details so great work keep it up
Thank you for watching! Im quite far in now and to be honest - it really is an achievable goal. I’m trying to highlight some of the issues I’ve had so it can be a resource for others. It’s incredibly rewarding so far and I genuinely can’t get enough of it!
I can only imagine how daunting it is for you to build this kit. If i may respectfully sugest the following to help you. You could do with covering all the concrete under your work area so as not to damage the powder coating on the frame as well as using padding to stop the tubes knocking against each other during the build up. You have great steel girders above your head, use them with straps to support your frame during the build. With diferent lengths they will be you other pair of hands. Put an 8x4 sheet of board on your tressels and you will have a much better workstation. I hope this helps.
Hi Peter! Thanks for watching! Yes - it was very daunting at the beginning but after a few days I got into the swing of it and it is coming together very quickly! Rest assured the tubes have never touched the concrete, they are all lay out on dust sheets and have been rubbed down with ACF50! The frame is currently sat quite nicely on padded trestles and is well supported. The legs and wheels are also now on and so is the rear fuselage! Anna has been a great. “Other pair of hands” throughout the build! The 8x4 was a really good idea though - I wish I’d known that when I started! Thanks again for watching!
You are doing fine ,in a few weeks your trepidation will diminish and you
Will be whizzing round 👍😀 Steve.
Thanks a lot, Steve! I’m getting there already! It’s got legs and wheels now!
Coming along nicely well done, look forward to next episode. Is the manual difficult to follow?
My advice and methods that might help.
Remember bolt convention has bolts going from top to bottom or front to rear unless otherwise instructed. Torque up bolts (There standard torque setting if they are not given n the instruction, don't just do it with a ratchet) to finish torque and mark with (Dykem Cross Check Tamper Proof Torque Seal Mark Marker Paste for Nuts & Bolts) so you can see which ones have been done and also you can see if the bolts have moved at annual, better than a paint pen. You should not need locktight on a nyloc nut.
I like the format of the video, I hope that is not too much work on the edit.
Thank you! There is no torque setting for the nuts and bolts. With it being aluminium tubes you have to do them up tight enough not to distort the tubes but there is definitely no torque settings. The paste is a good idea for sure - thank you! The manual does indeed say to use locktite 243 on all nyloc nuts and bolts…
@@LetsGoFlying I have to admit that I didn't know that they were unsupported tubes, so snug is good. It's unusual to use loctight with nyloc but belt and braces is OK, at least you know it will not come undone in flight.
Will make sure to watch the rest. Do you rent the space? I'm considering factory built swift or nynja. But quite temped to build one or maybe new KFA. But need a space to do it! Don't have it home. Guess it's just hanger rental with or without intact plane. Also lol "at I made a thing!" Have been a subscriber for while under a different name. 'M B'
Ah should have just watched first episode!
Uhh, a build table would help alot.
Looks like a giant Meccano set, do you have to torque every bolt to a certain value?
Thanks for watching! Yes it is indeed like mecano! There’s no torques on the airframe. The nyloc nuts are backed up with loctite and tightened enough that they are tight but don’t distort the aluminium tubes. The structure is incredibly strong once all the supports are in place. There is a great drop test video on Facebook!
Sounds like crutches when you move the frame...
Show morse of THE build an less selfies
So why the Skyranger?
600kg - incredibly strong structure, comfy seats, lovely instrument spec as standard, STOL performance and a max speed in rough air up to 96kts which for a microlight will give good real world touring capability for someone who likes to “fly to the numbers”