BUZZ, WHINE, HISS? How to FIX Car Audio Noise!
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2024
- One of the biggest things that can destroy enjoyment of an audio system is noise that isn't meant to be there! We don't want to hear alternator noise, static hiss or buzzing. How can we fix it if we do hear this noise in our car audio system? Here's how!
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I had a whine every time I turned up my stereo, so I pulled over and told the wife to get out. Problem Solved
😂
😂😂
🤣
Gold!!
😁 Hahah oh no... still married?
I swear this guy explains things in a very simple way step by step
You swear? 😏
He does! 🤘😎🤘
late response but I just got a new JVC aftermarket radio and installed it. I don't have my door speakers or tweeters hooked up to an external amplifier, just the deck. I got it all wired and when I fired the car up, as soon as the radio starts, a loud static/screeching sound plays through my mids and tweets. The tweeters get no music just static, the mids get music and static. I am curious if I should cut the car harness's factory ground wire that is running to the headunit and run a NEW & seperate wire from the headunit to the amplifer's ground? Or should I keep the cars factory harness's ground wire and run a secondary ground wire from the chassis of the headunit to the amplifer? Another question is should i use the radios harness black wire (the ground) to run a new wire to a new ground location or should I just connect it to the radio's chassis and run it to a new ground location? Hard to explain but sounds like I'm riding inside a UFO.
Mark, your final advice on the ground loop isolator was my problem...you helped me in out where my local car audio shop owner told me it was beyond his knowledge...you are the man thank you for being so smart at car audio
Dont they degrade audio quality?
@@emilz85 The one's I tried cut a huge portion of the lows out. Basically a highpass on the source signal. I wrote the manufacturer and they said that's how all the passive ground loop isolators work. I was shocked that so many people thought it was an acceptable solution.
Drove 600 KMs home from my son's place. Couldn't get my stereo to go properly. Now I know why. Thanks heaps. Subscribed.
You've taught me so much! Installed my first amp with ease from watching your vids! Thanks
Thanks man. Been watching you for a while now. This really helps my min be at ease. Time to go down the list. Keep up the great work!
dude you the man , i did 4 out of the 5 or so wrong ' but you lined me out in under 5 minutes . thanks and im hooked on ya and subscribed .
I've used many different types of GLI's and coming from an electrical background I can say that there is only one true fix for the major of times this issue exists. Having a nice and healthy ground to return your power flow, (though not all the time), is usually the fix for these. A quick and reliable fix is the chassis ground that is manufactured on the aftermarket unit itself. This grounding point is underrated and underused, but is a little bit a gold nugget!
Keep up the great work Mark!
Appreciate the video man, less than 10 minutes and had my speakers sounding brand new. Keep the videos coming
Dude ground loop you nailed it. Thank you so much.
Working on fixing this.
Using my aux cable
Ahh, the infamous ground issue in aftermarket stereos. Great points sir. Need to check mine, using fm Bluetooth to stock radio for my phone. Powered by the cig lighter- getting feedback from my cars stock electrical system. Will be checking ground on radio, and moving ground on cig lighter for better isolation.
THIS VIDEO WAS NEEDED!
i just want to say thank you for fully explained all of the possibility of the noise made from.
I just wanted to thank you very much for your informative videos. I decided that my 11 Caddy speakers were dying and needed to be replaced. I didn't realize that meant an avalanche of problems doing so. First the new tweeter blew, then the Metra conversion box blew 3 TIMES and then the amp went to hell. After I figured everything out, I had a terrrible hissing sound. I watched your videos on solving it and not only did the hissing go away but the sound improved. Thanks a lot for doing them.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, it will help a lot most of us diy mods.
Thank you very much for the information, I do have this noise in my car , and now I know how to get it out from my system)
Lots of info and solutions shared. Great video thank you very much !!!
Awesome videos, dude. Thanks for the help!
I've been struggling with a whining noise (turbo whine?) after upgrading my car audio system this June. I've narrowed it down to being a bad negative from the battery to the chassis. Thanks, Mark! Your video came just when I needed it 😊
how much more power did you add when the whining noise started? struggling with the same thing but idk what to think. and when I turn off my amp the noise stops.
In my car it was probably from like 1500rpms and up. At higher rpms I couldn't hear the whining over the engine noise
I’m going to be doing “The Big 3” upgrade this weekend and I’m hoping it solves my whine issue. There is slight static in my system when I just have the radio going and when I start the car the whining starts. Hope it works! I’ve tried about everything else…
I've done the Big 3 and whining is still there but when i connect my Rca straight to the amp there's less noise. I suspected I'm getting noise from My crossover and the Equalizer
@@axelkarv4814 you ever got the issue fix? I'm having this issue now
Great video ez to understand and stuck to the topic in the title description- liked and subbed
I actually went a different way with this. I had very bad noise when I installed a bluetooth audio receiver, but instead of using the filter I build an induction power module out of a phone induction charger building kit and a stepdown voltage regulator and i put everything in a 3d printer case. It severed the ground in the power input instead of the audio line so no ground loop, no noise and no reduction in sound quality whatsoever.
Great video buddy, easy to understand and you use simple language. Great help! Thanks!
Dealing with hiss right now.
Going to install wire ferrules tomorrow on everything.
I know I know, should have done that in the first place. 💀
Your videos are the best man.
Every video with knowledge is appreciated greatly.
Love all the videos and all the builds
Thanks for watching
Another great video Mark! Great info on problematic components with fixes! This is always a good thing! Keep it up!👍🏻😊
L I'll be home
Ll
Lmk l l
Sweet! Awesome knowledge to go with my Coffee. You are always Awesome.
I had noise and absolutely everything checked out perfectly. Turns out it was the head unit itself that was causing it. New unit no noise. It's worth keeping a known good hu on hand for testing.
I love you! Simple and to the point.
Awesome advice. Thank you
I love you, Mark😭 Thank youuuuuu
Thanks for the info, Mark! I will get this fixed now! :)
Something that may be helpful to others to note. If you are using a cheap passive (non powered) line out converter off of your factory radio and you install it directly behind the factory radio you may be getting a lot of noise there as well. There are a lot of electrical components going on back there and you can test this just by moving the loc around with the vehicle on and powered up. If your stubborn on using one of these cheaper loc's, you may benefit by extending the speaker wire your tapping into and getting the loc gar away from the back of the factory radio to underneath the glove box compartment for example but not as far as the kick panel because you will generally have huge looms of factory wiring there that can interfere with your signal as well
My converter is in the trunk of my car I'm hearing the power steering and the engine
late response but I just got a new JVC aftermarket radio and installed it. I don't have my door speakers or tweeters hooked up to an external amplifier, just the deck. I got it all wired and when I fired the car up, as soon as the radio starts, a loud static/screeching sound plays through my mids and tweets. The tweeters get no music just static, the mids get music and static. I am curious if I should cut the car harness's factory ground wire that is running to the headunit and run a NEW & seperate wire from the headunit to the amplifer's ground? Or should I keep the cars factory harness's ground wire and run a secondary ground wire from the chassis of the headunit to the amplifer? Another question is should i use the radios harness black wire (the ground) to run a new wire to a new ground location or should I just connect it to the radio's chassis and run it to a new ground location? Hard to explain but sounds like I'm riding inside a UFO.
Great info as always
_This was pretty helpful_
Great vid and very effectively explained
Yes, once. No matter what I did I could not remove it until I got a RCA ground loop isolator. This was back in 1989 in a 76 Vega. I think I bought the thing at Radio Shack.
I bought Radio Shack RCA’s back in the early 90’s. Heavy duty, gold plated with noise suppression. I’m glad I hung on to them and eventually found them. My alternator whine is gone and signal to my sub amp is fully restored without a ground loop isolator. I used Kicker RCA’s for my Alpine 6 1/2’s on an MTX Thunder 2 channel, and Radio Shack RCA’s with a small terminating RCA by Monster cable on my Skar 2000.1d feeding 3 DB drive 10’s. Just remember to do what this guy says and keep your RCA and power cables on opposite sides of the vehicle. And use really good RCA cables. This is where a lot of people mess up when doing their own installs.
Great info as usual Mark. Really enjoy the knowledge and how to’s you share with us. Great job 🤙🏻🤙🏻
One other important item I learned when tracking down noise in my speakers: Your RCA cable type DOES matter. There's two types: shielded/coaxial and twisted pair. If your amp has Single Ended (SE) inputs, then you should use shielded/coaxial RCAs. If your amp uses Differential Inputs (DI), then you should use twisted pair. My amp used SE inputs, but I was using a twisted pair RCA. Swapping over to a shielded RCA fixed my noise issue.
Symptom I has was a constant, high pitched whine, regardless if car was on or if music was playing. I performed all the tests in this video and everything checked out, so it really came down to either my headunit or my RCAs. It was the RCAs.
Very good to know this. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing. Luckly I have two different RCA cable types running to my amp. Standard for Sub and Twisted for speakers. I'm going to switch them up and see if this fixes it. Gonna come back with the results
Quick question for you since I'm experiencing something similar. I installed a new head unit and a new amp along with two new speakers paired with two existing speakers. The stereo runs fine the amp turns on a few seconds after the stereo there are no issues. Everything plays fine. But when I replaced my headlight from a stock model to an aftermarket LED model, I get a whirring noise.
I believe it's a noise of some sort. As I turn the lights from high and low the wiring noise can change and as I turn the headlights off and leave the DRLs on the noise goes almost away completely. If I disconnect the lights the whirring is gone. I'm not blaming the LEDs yet but I feel like either the wires or putting off some noise next to my RCA cables going into the amplifier or to the wires going to the speakers. Should I try disconnecting one set of wires at a time? Like remove one's RCA at a time and then remove one set of speaker wires at a time to see if one of those is catching the interference? It's very tight in the fairing of these motorcycles. I know what can be done correctly where things are kept separated I'm just not there yet with my installation. Thanks for any help you can offer
Glad I came across your channel. You got a new sub!
I had a headache before, your vids. 💯👍
I got one after, the vids
Thank you for video lessons! 👍💪👌💖
i remember having a whining noise in the back passenger side of an 1999 audi a4, idk why it started, but it would get louder with acceleration, and wasn't present if the key was only in auxiliary, i have no experience troubleshooting so i just unplugged that speaker and started reading and watching.. this video had some good info
Thank you!!! You explained it exactly how I would .. and another thing that people don’t offer as a solution is adding a ground to the Aftermarket HU. That is something I do during my installations, extra security.. I love it..
where is the link
I literally just finished installing new door speakers running on an amp. My left front speaker would hiss drastically after the head unit booted up. I swapped RCAs front to rear, and the hiss was still there indicating it's in the speaker wire post amp. I then took my panels off again and got the speaker wire a good 8 inches from the 12v for the amps. This fixed it for me in my vehicle.... I knew I was going to have issues with running power down the sides instead of under the middle.
Thanks for explaining i recently bought one of those screens that connects to the current radio stereo and the whining and static noise drove me crazy while its connected via aux, i switched and connected them via FM and both issued went away, at least now i know why i can hear it more when am accelerating!
Thank you!
Thank you Mark!!!
I had some noise yes, what did I do to fix it? Well basically I went back to this video and tried all things you said and now I have no noise:). thank you.
I love your videos you have all the answers 🤛🏽
Thank you
Thanks for the info mark
you are awesome man , good video love it. thank you
Very educative video :)
You saved me nerves man! Had a shhhh noise from LF speaker/twitter after new setup tunupat the Sound shop.
I have done shilding of my speaker wires with foil on the left side of the car. And wires under the hood too. All car insulated with foam/foil sheets. No wires tuched a metal. No luck. Than I replaced my Negative to chassis terminal wire as you said in the video ... and WOOALA. No noise. ***.
Yep, glad I found this video it's like it was meant for me to find it because I've just got two new amplifiers and mounted them under my driver's seat. I previously had an alpine amplifier under my seat with no issues and the bass amp was in back with the subs. I went with the db drive motorcycle amplifiers which have more power and take up much less space than the other ones but now I've got alternator whining I did re locate the ground connections a few times and it did quiet down a little but the noise is still there. I've grounded both amps to the left rear bolt that holds the seat down it may be a bad spot there but I'll try every thing else mentioned in this video, I have not upgraded my battery ground or engine ground I could always try that as well. The noise isolator device will be my last resort option. If any of you have helpful tips for me please let me know I'm all ears since i'm still somewhat new to this hobby.
Awesome! I’ve recently installed an aftermarket head unit and all was well before the install, but now I definitely have a very noticeable whine and hiss. I’ll try doing a proper ground instead of using the existing harness ground and see how that goes.
Did you fix it with a new ground connection? I'm currently trying to figure it out with my new headunit as well and really don't want to have to ship it back to China.
@@sssnake2332 ever figure it out?
I love comments saying "I'm gonna try this and that" and then they proceed to do it and completely forget to post the solution, cuz now their issues are gone 😢
I have had noise in the past, one was from the vehicle's electrical system specifically the alternator for whatever reason the alternator was putting out a noise because it was starting to fail so replacing that solved the problem and I also had another issue with the ground wires like you were describing, I had to find the ground wire that was the issue and repair it's connection because it wasn't getting good contact with the metal on the car
Hi, I installed an amp in my car with high level inputs cables directly to the amp (keeping the factory stereo) and I get a lot of static using the radio, CD or aux. I have a ground cable bigger than the power cable. What should I check? The ground cable is bolted really tight.
In my previous car I had installed an in car computer, it was a fairly complex set up and I always had some level of noise using an aux cable, however, on a lot of modern aftermarket nav units you are now getting an HDMI input, When switched to using that as the audio source all the issues went away
What knowledge, top man..!
I have static (RMI) after going aftermarket- Hifonics, Soundstream, Audio Control/ Epicenter w a stock head unit in my Tacoma. A lot of "Dos & Don'ts" during installation that I've forgotten. Nowadays, I have old man symptoms. I got my MECP Installer certification in 1990 when I was 20. Thanks for the refresher video!!!
Dude! You’re speaking to me. That whiny noise when I accelerate… I had my subwoofer/amp and aftermarket radio installed by a so called professional audio store. It’s very frustrating having those weird noises because they didn’t tune my system correctly like you said.
I didn’t get a box and had my subwoofer mounted in the factory ‘hole’ behind my back seat since my car was a base model with no subwoofer but has a built in hole with a plastic cover. I also think the amp is mounted on the frame with metal cover it came with. Everything you’ve talked about in the video is exactly what’s happening.
Amazing video. Really really amazing
The most difficult noise issue I've ever dealt with was a popping sound when turning off my stereo. I don't use the speaker outputs from my head unit so I knew it was coming from the amps. I initially believed it was ground related and tried multiple attempts at improving ground connections to no avail. I even swapped out my RCA cables which fixed nothing. In the end the cause was my headrest monitors which were powered on by the remote turn on from my head unit. Electrical issues can be such a pain to deal with. If you're persistent you can get through it.
Use a relay to power headrest monitors never use remote turn for anything more than turning on 2-3 amps , if you have this problem other wise properly use a relay or capacitor inline with the remote wire .
right on dude good shit
Thank you so much!!
Hey, thanks for the info!
Yes. I have noise in my system and after watching this, I think I know what's wrong!
The mounting screws for my amp are not only into to the board on the back of my rear seat, but I actually made sure they went all the way through the board and into the metal in the seat-back. I'll bet that is grounding the amplifier's metal casing. I'll find out soon enough!
Thanks again!
Me too
A couple times in my competition systems. I solved one issue by switching from rca to optical and on another system reversed the direction of my stinger 8000 rca cables
@CarAudioFabrication, thank you for all the useful videos. I am about to run electric lines in my van conversion and need to run some power cables near my speaker wire (not signal wire). Does that create noise as well? I assume yes. If so, could I add a shielding wire loom on my speaker wire to help? Thanks!
I like to have all of the wires together in a nice, contained package so I used to tie in to the factory ground when installing an aftermarket head unit and every single one of them ended up with noise. Running a separate ground to a good spot on the chassis has eliminated that though it gives me one more loose wire to tie up.
Another issue could be a popping sound when changing sources on a aftermarket head unit. I have that issue and a very slight whining with the radio at 0 volume. I'm not too worried about the whining because its so faint and cant be heard with music playing
I had a pretty bad noise in my avalanche and I stripped down a remote wire, wrapped it around all of the rca ports on the radio and secured the ends under a screw on the radio. "grounding the RCA's" so to speak. Now I do it as a precaution on every system I install and don't have problems.
Thank you for the video. How come you didn't include Noise Suppressors that many aftermarket head units require to eliminate noise?
This is really informative, it’s actually too informative lmao it made me realize I need to just go take someone else to do it for me haha.
Hi! Love your videos! I have a factory Head unit into a Bit DMI into a Bit One DSP which feeds a JL amp for the 4 door speakers & a Sony amp for 2 custom speaker pods. One of the speaker pods is making a whining noise. Shop says it’s because the magnet is too close to some of the car’s other electronics. Is there anything you can think of that I can place between to shield the speaker? The noise drives me so crazy I’m ready to put a slab of lead back there. Help!
I have a static noise coming through my speakers and my stereo is stock so i used an rca converter and ive tried disconnecting the rca cables but the static is still thrre im not sure how to resolve this
I get distortion in the highs on my Bluetooth adapter when the BT volume is all the way up on my phone. I find that turning the volume down to 75ish% on my phone usually solves the problem. Another thing I've seen in some Fords is popping when changing the source when an aftermarket head unit is installed. Some fords need a couple resistors connected to the factory amp turn on and grounds in a particular way because the factory amp doesn't like a full 12v signal.
ANC Mics will also cause whining or a "robotic buzz" when listening. Ambient Noise-canceling microphones(ANC Mics) are designed to get rid of any noises that the factory head unit and ANC unit deem not part of the stereo output in order to make the ride seem a lot quieter than it really is. It sends the "opposite" sound out in order to cancel out any unaccounted noises. So if you install subs or a multichannel amp to add extra sound, your ANC system is going to try an cancel it out unless disconnected. Most of the time you can find the ANC module and just unplug it or else you have to cut the mic wires(and I don't recommend it if you don't have to, those things are expensive to replace). A lot of newer(let's say after 2013) might have this, new hondas, certain GMs, etc.
I don't have a car stereo, in fact I don't have a car. I don't know how I ended up watching this video..
Lmaooo this made me laugh
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
😆
Lucky you!!! You are not spending money!!!
i pray for you
Thank you :)
your the best, thank you
I had a problem with a remote wire in my buddys system . We had to run it by its self in order to be noise free but it worked .
Great video
Thank you
You help me alot tanks
Can you do a video on how to install a crossover please it will be very helpful for me
Awesome video you went over all the problems I was having with my sound system!
Glad to hear it helped!
Definitely having this issue need some advice
Good video.
Thank you
76 GMC Sierra. Cheap little amps. I've had the engine noise with this truck since I bought it. Common on these old pick-ups. I am doing what I can to fix it. Update when I get it corrected. BTW...love the videos! I'll be installing a 2-amp setup in my 70 Pontiac soon and hopefully it goes well.
I really think this is most common when upgrading stereo system with amp(s) in older vehicles. I ordered a 4-channel RCA noise filter suppressor (running 2 amps) and after moving ground around from the head unit a bunch if times and the ground from the distribution block a fee times, this instantly corrected my issue. Thanks for this video, sir!!!
I currently have a very loud hiss accompanied by a whine that matches rpm. I have a 2ga big 3, 4 ga power wire, 4 ga ground ran through the body and bolted directly to the frame. I cleaned off all the paint, used a self tapper through the solid copper wire lug, then painted over it afterwards. Im using high quality RCAs, and an RCA noise filter. Still having issuee
Hey do you sell custom boxes? I remember you plugging it in an old video.. it's for a skar vvx 10 v3.
Just had noise in my speaker build. turns out it was a power supply issue. Changed out the DC power supply to the plate amp and it solved the problem
Hey Mark, you are the perfect guy for me to ask this question. I installed a pioneer headunit in my truck but now my door chime is extremely loud. What wire can I disconnect to stop the door chime?
Did you use a seperate integration harness? If so you can usually turn down the chimes on those. Check the instructions
Can you do a video on best ground locations on a pickup truck ?
perfect timing as i am having some interference with my new setup. i also have a bump/buzz noise which happens on start up and shut down. i spoke to a Audison rep which had said new fords (and other brands) do a system check which sends power to speaks and make this noise (may i add that the system check can also happen in the middle of the night while your not in the car and in some cases has resolved in the sub/speakers blowing) the solution for this is audison uss4 universal speaker simulator. mines arriving next week and will reply if all go's well.
Before you turn off your Ride.Try Lowering the GAIN on Amp. I have that PROBLEM ASWELL. IT IS ANNOYING AND I HAD IT PROFESSIONALLY INSTALLED & when I put GAIN ☝ UP IT SOUND'S 👍 GOOD. BUT ONCE I PARK & SHUT OFF ENGINE. THAT CRAP CAN SCARE THE HELL OUT OF YOU....
You didn't reply did it work
Thanks for the video. I guess a malfinctioning speaker or a missing speaker/subwoofer would also cause similar problems ? tnx
I had maddening sounds coming out of the headphone port on the iMac I used at work which was solved with a ground loop isolator as well.
That little isolator can solve so much
How about a video on Tune-On Pop?
Used to get road noise all the time kept grounding out my RCA’s quick fix was replacing them.
I have had noise before due to poor grounding and after re-grounding I resolved the issue. However currently after this current install of a pioneer mvhs622 digital media device, and the MB Court PS1 316 components and 1-10 inch JL audio sub, I have a whining problem when the engine runs. I have a short ground to the amp. re-grounded the head unit. I even ran brand new high-quality RCA cables to the amp. I guess I’ll have to check the main vehicle ground from the battery next as you suggested.