Wow, that's a great video! I've never seen it that bad before. Hey, I've come across boards with X25 and X15 stepper motors on them. Would it be fair to say they are all previous rebuilds, or did GM ever use those?
hopefully, it wasn't too long! I just hate seeing things getting completely ruined because of laziness. It's sad and a waste. I did forget to mention a lot of the good fluxes are still hydrophilic so they can become conductive and most of them are capacitive so they can affect sensitive signals.
Organic is some of the most aggressive flux I've had experience with. Washes off with water, but if it's left on, it will eat through a trace in under a year. I buy only a no-clean flux and solder with no-clean flux.
Yeah I just wanted to test it out and see if I liked it. It's a hard pass for me. I forgot to mention that most water washable fluxes are Organic Acids so I am glad you mention it. They aren't Acid flux in the sense of copper pipe flux but they are still highly reactive acids and must be cleaned. I get its in process life is supposed to be longer but I really don't see the advantage of that in action much. It take longer to solder with because the water in it first has evaporate away before it really starts working. so that takes longer than the no clean stuff to work so I rather just reapply no clean when its in process life wears off. Maybe its advantages are really seen in a reflow oven. I alway want to try different techniques so I don't regret buying it but I am done with this one lol.
@@FixedUntilBroken @jeffescortlx Besides the common plumbers acid flux, organic core and water washable fluxes are some of the most erosive fluxes I know of. I get prior repair attempt boards come in all the time covered in that awful flux.... and boards totally destroyed. You can usually tell its a super aggressive flux cause it has a very pungent or bitter smell to it when you're reworking it. And the bad part is that it'll destroy the plating on your soldering iron tips. I've had quite a few expensive Hakko N3 FM-2024 desoldering nozzles destroyed by acid fluxes.
@@mike7958 Yeah that point on the tips is exactly why I don't use any tip conditioners or tip tinners that come in a can. They are all organic acid-based from my understanding. I have a tin of pure rosin I use for that job when I need it but I really haven't needed to do that for a while. Seem to only ever need it if I got out of town for a while. On a side note of tip care, I just got a hakko FT-700. It's still in the mail. those JBC tips get stuck in the brass wool so I was going to see if this works better for me. I paid a whole $30 for it. I was hoping the water washable would help with MCU stuff because the no clean working life isn't as long but the water washable wicks too much heat I don't like the way it performs and it has the huge disadvantage of having to clean it to perfection.
Wonderful video and information. Thank you so much. 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Wow, that's a great video! I've never seen it that bad before. Hey, I've come across boards with X25 and X15 stepper motors on them. Would it be fair to say they are all previous rebuilds, or did GM ever use those?
Generalization C5/x15 are factory. X25/x27 are rebuilt. If it has a mix than it was for sure worked on.
hopefully, it wasn't too long! I just hate seeing things getting completely ruined because of laziness. It's sad and a waste. I did forget to mention a lot of the good fluxes are still hydrophilic so they can become conductive and most of them are capacitive so they can affect sensitive signals.
Organic is some of the most aggressive flux I've had experience with. Washes off with water, but if it's left on, it will eat through a trace in under a year. I buy only a no-clean flux and solder with no-clean flux.
Yeah I just wanted to test it out and see if I liked it. It's a hard pass for me. I forgot to mention that most water washable fluxes are Organic Acids so I am glad you mention it. They aren't Acid flux in the sense of copper pipe flux but they are still highly reactive acids and must be cleaned.
I get its in process life is supposed to be longer but I really don't see the advantage of that in action much. It take longer to solder with because the water in it first has evaporate away before it really starts working. so that takes longer than the no clean stuff to work so I rather just reapply no clean when its in process life wears off. Maybe its advantages are really seen in a reflow oven.
I alway want to try different techniques so I don't regret buying it but I am done with this one lol.
@@FixedUntilBroken @jeffescortlx Besides the common plumbers acid flux, organic core and water washable fluxes are some of the most erosive fluxes I know of. I get prior repair attempt boards come in all the time covered in that awful flux.... and boards totally destroyed. You can usually tell its a super aggressive flux cause it has a very pungent or bitter smell to it when you're reworking it. And the bad part is that it'll destroy the plating on your soldering iron tips. I've had quite a few expensive Hakko N3 FM-2024 desoldering nozzles destroyed by acid fluxes.
@@mike7958 Yeah that point on the tips is exactly why I don't use any tip conditioners or tip tinners that come in a can. They are all organic acid-based from my understanding. I have a tin of pure rosin I use for that job when I need it but I really haven't needed to do that for a while. Seem to only ever need it if I got out of town for a while.
On a side note of tip care, I just got a hakko FT-700. It's still in the mail. those JBC tips get stuck in the brass wool so I was going to see if this works better for me. I paid a whole $30 for it.
I was hoping the water washable would help with MCU stuff because the no clean working life isn't as long but the water washable wicks too much heat I don't like the way it performs and it has the huge disadvantage of having to clean it to perfection.
What are your thoughts of flux core solder?