A bit over 10 years ago I bought a used lift for $1,100. My wife was extremely unhappy that I spent that much money for something "I really didn't need". Within 6 months after several auto repairs made possible she finally said it was one of my best investments! We had to downsize & move later. I had to leave it there to make the sale. I have been wishing I could have taken it with us. Especially now I am almost 80 years old, I have to have all work done by someone else that I could still do myself with a lift. I used to use it to do work on many things besides autos. It made replacing mower or drive belts simple. I can't afford to replace it. 😖😖😖😟
I got my first lift in a trade. This guy owned a small auto shop and his mechanic left him stranded with a chevy truck that had the entire engine in the bed in a million pieces. No one wanted to touch it because nothing was labelled, it was all just tossed in the back. I agreed to put it all back together in a trade for his lift. Took 4 days to organize all the pieces and get it put together. I used that lift almost every day for years until I sold the house and had to sell the lift with it. It was basically the same model as this one, except it didn't have the overhead beam, it had the drive over plate with the hydraulics at the bottom. I hated that for transmission work, so I knew I'd buy this style next.
What an incredible lift to have in you own private garage and business! Austin, you never cease to amaze me with your skills at doing just about anything that you set your mind to doing.
Bolting two posts to a floor isn't exactly "amazing." It's not like he built one from scratch. Never mind that he doesn't understand the hydraulic ratio and thinks it "doubles the lifting power" while it actually cuts it in half while trading for increased height and speed.
@@DiffEQ I would love to have a garage and a lift like that! Austin has built many impressive projects in my opinion. I am not an engineer nor do I have any training. I come from wholesale plumbing supplies and I look at things more simply then you do.
@@Raymond-Gibb Yes he should, Mond! I couldn’t believe how harsh he came down on me. A lift like that in your home shop would incredible, not to say that it’s not a big deal.
@@DiffEQ Installing it himself is pretty handy already... and having the ability to edit and post it on YT for your viewing pleasure is pretty badass. I looked at your profile and see nothing. Maybe you can contribute something someday.
Getting ready to build a shop and hadn't even thought of radiant floor heat in there. Glad I watched this! I'll have to make sure and leave plenty of space for my lift anchors if I decide to go with it. I'll probably plumb it for the floor heat either way. Thanks 🙏
I got an Atlas 14k 4 post installed in my shop a couple years ago, its been a lifesaver so far. I have only needed to grease the zerks and retension the cables a couple times. Its easily the best and most used tool in my shop now.
I purchased this same lift a couple months before you did. I absolutely love it. I have only done a few projects with it and it was completely worth it. I installed the first wedge anchor and basically said F this crap and decided to epoxy 5/8 threaded rod instead....sooooo much better than the wedges. I feel far safer with a single threaded rod than all 10 (i think it was 10) wedges. I had issues with the lift "jumping" while lowering it. At first I thought I needed to keep bleeding the lines but after a few dozen raising and lowers with vehicles on it doesn't do it anymore. I think the plastic bushings wore out enough to make it smoother. I installed a lockout tagout 30amp flip switch just above the housing so i can easily turn the power off to the lift if needed. I also leave it locked when not in use. Great install video by the way! I watched a lot of these in hopes I didn't screw up the install....but in the end it was pretty straight forward.
I've watched a few lift install videos preparing to install my 10k 2 post Wheeltronic lift. Best one on here! Appreciate you taking the time to help prepare the rest of us. Well spoken. Great explanations. Well done!! Looking forward to seeing what else you can help me with lol.
When I did my radiant floors I purposely left a void in the pad area and made it a 12 inch pour instead of 4 to 6 inches. Did a provision for two lifts in my garage. But that’s because I knew from day one I was going to install at least one lift. That thermal device is pretty crafty.
I tell everyone that will listen that being a good mechanic is 1/3 having the right tools, 1/3 knowing how to use those tools and a 1/3 knowing how to actually replace the parts.
Great video and install! Amazing how rude some of the people are in the comments. I suspect this install was more thorough than some professional installers.
Looks great. Nice job. I have the exact same lift, bought it 3 years ago. I also have radiant heat. What i did to find the tubing was to turn on the heat and use an infrared thermometer. Pointing it at the floor and moving it along you could see the temperature change. Once i found the hottest point i put a mark on the floor with a sharpie. I ended up having the floor all marked off where the columns would be. I was still very nervous drilling the holes but, it was all good. Your going to love the lift. It's been great so far with zero issues. By the way, it was just a cheap thermometer from harbor freight 'bout $20. Worked great😊
Nice video but I was very disappointed you didn't film the cable install....that was my main reason for looking up videos on installs.... however the plate idea to raise the post was helpful and a very nice job.... You are more than welcome to come install my lift .. haha
yes i am installing one too, my foundations under each post 39x39x 28 6 a 3/4 x 8 bolts reo cages between bolts but you are a statistic waiting to happen, you should have rope stayed those posts
Excellent video! I have been looking at these lifts for my shop and I have a few questions. 1. Where did you position your lift relative to the overhead door and are you happy with where you installed it? My bay with 13' ceiling height is only 22' long, but I have a section with 9' ceilings in front of the bay. I am hoping that I can still make it work and put it where I can still service most vehicles. 2. How do you know where to position the vehicle so that you have the centre of gravity in the right place for each vehicle? Since it is a symmetric lift with asymmetric arms it isn't clear to me how this affects the positioning. Thanks for your help!
I just installed mine, and GET THAT INFRARED CAM TOOL HE HAS!! I drilled into a heat line because I just used a laser thermometer and thought I knew where the lines were. I did for supply, but not the return line running the opposite direction, in a weird place. 😳
Sorry about your water line amzn.to/3pEfxev This is the camera I am using now and I love it. Way better resolution than the klien I borrowed for that video and about the same price
What an incredibly nice addition to your shop!!! Top notch work, as usual... but now I can't wait to see the various projects you will be doing with the help of that lift. Should make life much easier... and perhaps more profitable too. Love these videos!! Still look forward to progress on the "home" part of your shopominium...
Nice! I never thought about using a thermal imaging camera to locate the tubes. I intentionally left two square rectangles free of tubing for a future lift install. Now I just need the boiler and a lift! Good video, the only thing missing was a test lift. 👍😁
I have a post tensioned slab home, so it can be sketchy drilling into the garage floor. I installed a jib crane by using a metal detector and a stud finder to accurately trace the cables and work around them... I meant to take pictures and draw a map during the build, but forgot. I gotta say, it was a bit nervous drilling into the slab, but it all worked out in the end. That FLIR camera was pretty clever!
Just a little tip, drill the holes all the way through your concrete, that way if you ever want to remove the lift you can just unbolt the lift and hammer the old anchors down flush with the concrete and out of the way. Only option now is to cut the bolts and lifting it over the studs.
Thanks for the tip. I actually considered doing just that, but I decided against it because I have 3" of insulation foam underneath the slab and didn't love the idea of drilling into it. It probably wouldn't have mattered if I did drill through, but it was kind of an on the fly decision not to.
18:50 "doubles its lifting power" That is not correct. That roller actually reduces the power by 50% while giving you a 2:1 lift ratio and lift rate. Look at the maximum cylinder extension versus the maximum lift height. You will find the cylinder is about half of the maximum lift height, thus you trade power for travel distance and speed. 19:56 That noise while you are lowering the lift is know as hydraulic chatter or stick/slip. It can be resolved with the addition of a special lubricant to the hydraulic fluid. Just do a search for hydraulic "anti-chatter" fluid. Stick/slip is more than just an annoyance as they cylinder is literally getting stuck and then breaking free, internally. Chatter is reduced somewhat by loading the cylinders, but not completely. It's an inherent problem with gravity release (one-way) cylinders.
Thanks for your comment. You are 100% correct on the lifting power. I had it backwards in my head and someone else corrected me on that. That chatter noise disappeared once I cycled the lift to eliminate the trapped air, but if it comes back I will keep that lube in mind.
Wedge anchors suck. I epoxied 5/8 threaded rod into the concrete.....NOT going anywhere. I felt safer with a single bolt than i would with all 10 wedge anchors.
9KOH? Same lift I bought back in '19 for around $1700. Picked it up myself from the Indy whse with ZERO damage. I never could figure out where that one bracket went, L shaped with a circle on end. Allmost 4 years now and only problem was 2 broken switches.
Hey I have a question about some of the parts that came with this lift, I bought the same lift and I saw you have the same 2 metal parts. There are 2, they are painted blue. They have a 90 degree bracket with 2 threaded holes. And on the other end a metal circle about 1-1.5”. I Cannot figure out where these two bracket go. And help would greatly appreciate! Thanks! 0:51
I had the same question so I contacted my sales rep and they said they mount to the top of each column to hold the hoses out of the way if the lift is installed on the low setting. I installed my lift on the higher setting so the brackets were not needed. Austin good job on your video it was helpful to me when setting up my lift. Thanks.
I'm surprised you didn't use ac100 or something like that inside the anchor holes. it helps them stay tight, that way you don't have to wrench on them every 2 months to keep them tight
I'm trying to find a nice low profile car lift to throw in my new garage, the ceilings are high enough to lift a car, but not high enough to throw a traditional two post lift in
Not sure you put that lift in right. I could be wrong but when you have lift arms like that they call them a asymmetrical lift and the columns are not supposed to be square to each other they're at an angle. Thanks for sharing
They make asymmetrical column lifts like you described. This is a symmetrical column / asymmetrical arm lift. The asymmetrical column lifts have a lower rating as the center of gravity is not under the center of the columns. They are used for smaller cars to make it easier to get in and out of them
@@itsatoolthing6323 I think the terminology is a little sloppy on these lifts because I see them labelled asymmetrical arms vs symmetrical arms and they both asymmetrical to me because the fronts and rears are different. The terms seems to describe if the front arms swing all the way back like mine do. Reminds me of how people (including myself) use the words engine and motor interchangeably
I have a little under 14' in back of the lift and 30" in front. I wanted to have enough room behind it to put my extended cab long bed on it and still close the garage door.
The bracket is under tension from the chain during normal operations. In the event of a broken chain, the bracket locks into the latches built into the column so the carriage can only drop an inch or two before locking in place.
Nice job sir. I have a question in regards to having to re-torque the bolts due to them slowly pulling out. Any issues? I’m wondering if using .75” all thread and concrete epoxy would be better than standard wedge fasteners since it’s about 3 times stronger. Thanks.
This is a great question that I am not smart enough to properly answer. I have checked the torque multiple times and have not experienced any backing out whatsoever. I had a previous lift that was installed a degree or so off and I didn't use the same drill bit so the hole wasn't nearly as smooth and that lift needed retorquing regularly. I have had a few people suggest epoxy and all thread and I just don't know if that would be better or worse than wedge anchors. I feel like good epoxy is better than wedge anchors in a rough hole but on a really smooth bore I just feel like wedge anchors are better. But that's just feelings, I have no science to back it up.
Did I miss the part about the footer? I was jumping around the video. Mine has 4x4x4 concrete footers. Why such short studs? I have 12” studs (custom).
The manufacturer recommends at least 4" thick high strength concrete that has cured for at least 28 days. That seems a little thin to me. Luckily, I had 6" concrete, so felt comfortable installing it as the manufacturer recommends with the supplied anchors. If I would have been the one that poured the concrete I would have used 12" thick pads with j bolts instead of wedge anchors.
@@AustinCoulson wow I didn’t know 4” was a minimum. I’ve seen way too many failed lifts with 4”. No heavier than suv (gmc/chevy) it should be fine. I’m lifing 4x4 trucks loaded to the gills 8-10k lbs +. I only have one lift and my install was based on my experiences and history of other peoples experiences.
I think I could have worded that better. The use of a pulley and chain doubles the lifting capacity of the hydraulic cylinder but halves the travel and speed... I think. I was not very good in school.
@@AustinCoulson First of all I admire your skills with the trucks and the shop. Love your videos. And I wasn't very good at school as well. But I worked as an Elevator installer for many years. What you have there is a 1:2 pulley. One meter lifting at the cylinder is two meter at the platform. But you loose half the capacity of the cylinder. Like a backwards snatch block. And I'm not so good at explaining 😄
@@asbjrnkvisle5831 So it sounds like it was the exact opposite of what I thought. I will try to find some diagrams or videos online to check out so I can understand it better. Thanks for the heads up!
@@AustinCoulson And maybe explain it better than me. And I'm not 100 % sure that I'm right. Looking forward to see the lift in action with your projects 👍
It's great. I have had zero issues with it over the last year. Chains and cables are all tight with no adjustments needed. The concrete anchors have stayed torqued and the carriages have stayed perfectly level to the locks.
heck yeah. great job. hey you are the perfect person to ask. im fixing to install my lift i got to ask should i lock tight all of nuts and bolts??? or not i love how you split the camara it really look like theres is two of you doing the job lol
I don't use locktite as the manufacturer of the bolts doesn't recommend it because the bolts are supposed to be checked for torque weekly and locktite will affect that. Also, the issue with concrete wedge anchors isn't so much the nuts backing off as it is the entire bolt pulling out slightly and the wedge needing to be re-seated by retorquing. A lot of guys use epoxy in concrete now, and I think that is a good alternative to wedge anchors if you follow the instructions carefully. Personally, I love wedge anchors if they are installed correctly and inspected regularly. (I have not needed to re-torque mine at all in the first year in service.)
How far apart are the post they look very far apart. I was a mechanic for 20 years an average midsize car would have just enough room to exit the car before the door would hit a post. Usually I'd pull the car ahead just enough so the door could be opened fully or back a bit to give it more swing. Those just look far apart which would be fine if the arms extend out enough.
30 amp breaker because that is what Atlas recommended. 10 ga solid core to the junction, 10 ga stranded in the flexible whip. Most guys I know run 20 amps and have no issues. I measured my current pull at under 15amps while lifting a car
@@AustinCoulson Thank you! I am trying to understand why Atlas "requires" a 30 amp circuit. Every other similar lift I have researched uses 20 amp wiring and breaker.
Another great video, did you used to be a teacher or have you considered it because you do a good job explaining what and why you're doing what you're doing.
I have limited teaching experience, mostly just one-off classes in the military on very specific topics, but I enjoy whenever anyone sees my videos and says they learn something, so thank you for the kind compliment.
@@AustinCoulson indeed, I wouldn't be comfortable either with only 4"... I'll go also with at least 6" next summer when I'll build my garage... thanks...
I tried the link and it looks to me like the same one (9KOH) but its also showing XH9KOHX as an alternative part number. I'm not sure what the difference, if any, is.
@@shauntucker5145 I just checked that out. I was trying to decide between the lift on my garage list and the one you saw me install. I decided on the Atlas you saw because it has the asymmetrical arms and because my last lift was atlas and although they are all probably made in the same factory in China, I have had nothing but positive experiences with Atlas lifts. I have been super happy with my decision and would happily recommend the Atlas 9KOH
Ive seen a lot of people install these outdoors, but I wouldn't recommend it, at least without an overhead covering. Seems like the hoses and seals dry rot pretty quick in the sun and rain.
I'm 14' from my door and I wouldn't change a thing. It's far enough away that I can lift my crew cab long bed ram and still walk behind it and that was exactly what I was aiming for. Good luck on your install!
I just picked this lift up and am working on installing it. I cannot find an instruction manual that shows two ports at the bottom of the hydraulic cylinders. Each of my cylinders have two ports on the bottom and idk what to do with the lines lol. One port faces in towards the car, and the other faces out to where the line should go. Should I plug the inside one?
My cylinders also have 2 ports, one facing the vehicle and one facing the away. The away port connects to the hose and the vehicle facing port is plugged. Mine came plugged from the factory. Looks like 3/8NPT
@@AustinCoulson Mine came with little plastic plugs, I called atlas and they let me know that it should have came with 4 3/8 npt plugs. They said this is an issue they just found out about and the manufacturer should be remedying this going forward. I just ran to the hardware store and picked up a couple. Thanks for the follow up!
I can tell you where the BendPack lift, if it says it’s good for 9000 pounds it will carry on a regular basis 11 to 12,000 pounds! And the lift will last you 35 years with daily commercial use. With the atlas lift I have, if I carry 1200 to 1500 pounds over the stated limit those arms will fold! I’ve already replaced one of the rear arms. And that was only because a pick up had a loaded bed. The pick up was well within the range of the lift’s stated capacity. For home use or a lift that is used in frequently and is overrated for the job an atlas should be OK. Just don’t push it or use it on a professional basis .
Can't disagree with anything here. I love the Benpak, they just cost 2x as much. I also don't feel comfortable near the rated limit on my atlas. I won't lift more than 7500lbs, which is right where my Cummins is at, and even then, I did a 4 wheel weight balance on my truck first to make sure the COG was centered with the lift.
This atlas has the individual locks on each side that pull down on after lifting it off the safeties. My last atlas had a lever near the lowering handle that you had to hold down while lowering. They both have benefits, but I prefer my old style lever. Not a deal breaker though, as I like this lift more overall.
It comes and goes from Amazon often and the price has been changing a lot but if you keep checking it's usually back to being available within a couple of days.
He's not cutting and he's clearly defined the location of the PEX so what's the issue? He's not just guessing and hoping for the best. Fingers crossed??
A bit over 10 years ago I bought a used lift for $1,100. My wife was extremely unhappy that I spent that much money for something "I really didn't need". Within 6 months after several auto repairs made possible she finally said it was one of my best investments!
We had to downsize & move later. I had to leave it there to make the sale. I have been wishing I could have taken it with us. Especially now I am almost 80 years old, I have to have all work done by someone else that I could still do myself with a lift. I used to use it to do work on many things besides autos. It made replacing mower or drive belts simple. I can't afford to replace it. 😖😖😖😟
I got my first lift in a trade. This guy owned a small auto shop and his mechanic left him stranded with a chevy truck that had the entire engine in the bed in a million pieces. No one wanted to touch it because nothing was labelled, it was all just tossed in the back. I agreed to put it all back together in a trade for his lift. Took 4 days to organize all the pieces and get it put together. I used that lift almost every day for years until I sold the house and had to sell the lift with it. It was basically the same model as this one, except it didn't have the overhead beam, it had the drive over plate with the hydraulics at the bottom. I hated that for transmission work, so I knew I'd buy this style next.
What an incredible lift to have in you own private garage and business! Austin, you never cease to amaze me with your skills at doing just about anything that you set your mind to doing.
Bolting two posts to a floor isn't exactly "amazing." It's not like he built one from scratch. Never mind that he doesn't understand the hydraulic ratio and thinks it "doubles the lifting power" while it actually cuts it in half while trading for increased height and speed.
@@DiffEQ I would love to have a garage and a lift like that! Austin has built many impressive projects in my opinion. I am not an engineer nor do I have any training. I come from wholesale plumbing supplies and I look at things more simply then you do.
@@mitchellbarnow1709 He should change his name to Jealous Engineer
@@Raymond-Gibb Yes he should, Mond! I couldn’t believe how harsh he came down on me. A lift like that in your home shop would incredible, not to say that it’s not a big deal.
@@DiffEQ Installing it himself is pretty handy already... and having the ability to edit and post it on YT for your viewing pleasure is pretty badass. I looked at your profile and see nothing. Maybe you can contribute something someday.
Congrats on your lift. I got a Atlas PV10P almost 4 years ago now. it's been amazing. Sure makes life easier.
Getting ready to build a shop and hadn't even thought of radiant floor heat in there. Glad I watched this! I'll have to make sure and leave plenty of space for my lift anchors if I decide to go with it. I'll probably plumb it for the floor heat either way. Thanks 🙏
I got an Atlas 14k 4 post installed in my shop a couple years ago, its been a lifesaver so far. I have only needed to grease the zerks and retension the cables a couple times. Its easily the best and most used tool in my shop now.
I always like it when you mention the forklift.
It was a UA-cam search on forklifts that sent me to your channel long ago.
I purchased this same lift a couple months before you did. I absolutely love it. I have only done a few projects with it and it was completely worth it. I installed the first wedge anchor and basically said F this crap and decided to epoxy 5/8 threaded rod instead....sooooo much better than the wedges. I feel far safer with a single threaded rod than all 10 (i think it was 10) wedges.
I had issues with the lift "jumping" while lowering it. At first I thought I needed to keep bleeding the lines but after a few dozen raising and lowers with vehicles on it doesn't do it anymore. I think the plastic bushings wore out enough to make it smoother. I installed a lockout tagout 30amp flip switch just above the housing so i can easily turn the power off to the lift if needed. I also leave it locked when not in use.
Great install video by the way! I watched a lot of these in hopes I didn't screw up the install....but in the end it was pretty straight forward.
epoxy with threaded rod is the only way to go, don trust the anchors with all the vibration and weight shit on them during the lift movement.
@@williamdjerf6291Absolutely. I used threaded rod to hold the walls down for an addition i did after this project as well.
I've watched a few lift install videos preparing to install my 10k 2 post Wheeltronic lift. Best one on here! Appreciate you taking the time to help prepare the rest of us. Well spoken. Great explanations. Well done!! Looking forward to seeing what else you can help me with lol.
Glad to hear it, thanks
When I did my radiant floors I purposely left a void in the pad area and made it a 12 inch pour instead of 4 to 6 inches. Did a provision for two lifts in my garage. But that’s because I knew from day one I was going to install at least one lift. That thermal device is pretty crafty.
That is exactly how I would have done it, especially the 12" footer if I poured this but the slab was here when I bought the place
Is 4 inch of concrete safe?
Prime example of how having the right tools is so very helpful!
I tell everyone that will listen that being a good mechanic is 1/3 having the right tools, 1/3 knowing how to use those tools and a 1/3 knowing how to actually replace the parts.
Great video and install! Amazing how rude some of the people are in the comments. I suspect this install was more thorough than some professional installers.
Looks great. Nice job. I have the exact same lift, bought it 3 years ago. I also have radiant heat. What i did to find the tubing was to turn on the heat and use an infrared thermometer. Pointing it at the floor and moving it along you could see the temperature change. Once i found the hottest point i put a mark on the floor with a sharpie. I ended up having the floor all marked off where the columns would be. I was still very nervous drilling the holes but, it was all good. Your going to love the lift. It's been great so far with zero issues.
By the way, it was just a cheap thermometer from harbor freight 'bout $20. Worked great😊
That Iwo Jima moment was mint!
Only if you actually served this country.
Nice video but I was very disappointed you didn't film the cable install....that was my main reason for looking up videos on installs.... however the plate idea to raise the post was helpful and a very nice job.... You are more than welcome to come install my lift .. haha
I put this lift in my shop. Been using for two years. It’s great.
Always great to hear your opinion, good to see you posting. tHanks!
What a uplifting video. Seriously though another flawless install. Who need instructions not Austin.
I see what you did there...
yes i am installing one too, my foundations under each post 39x39x 28 6 a 3/4 x 8 bolts reo cages between bolts
but you are a statistic waiting to happen, you should have rope stayed those posts
Cool effect with the dual ladder
Excellent video! I have been looking at these lifts for my shop and I have a few questions.
1. Where did you position your lift relative to the overhead door and are you happy with where you installed it? My bay with 13' ceiling height is only 22' long, but I have a section with 9' ceilings in front of the bay. I am hoping that I can still make it work and put it where I can still service most vehicles.
2. How do you know where to position the vehicle so that you have the centre of gravity in the right place for each vehicle? Since it is a symmetric lift with asymmetric arms it isn't clear to me how this affects the positioning.
Thanks for your help!
My lift came with shop on my property, with air and compressor and power. Looked a long time for this property at a good price.
I just installed mine, and GET THAT INFRARED CAM TOOL HE HAS!! I drilled into a heat line because I just used a laser thermometer and thought I knew where the lines were. I did for supply, but not the return line running the opposite direction, in a weird place. 😳
Sorry about your water line
amzn.to/3pEfxev
This is the camera I am using now and I love it. Way better resolution than the klien I borrowed for that video and about the same price
What an incredibly nice addition to your shop!!! Top notch work, as usual... but now I can't wait to see the various projects you will be doing with the help of that lift. Should make life much easier... and perhaps more profitable too. Love these videos!! Still look forward to progress on the "home" part of your shopominium...
Nice! I never thought about using a thermal imaging camera to locate the tubes. I intentionally left two square rectangles free of tubing for a future lift install. Now I just need the boiler and a lift! Good video, the only thing missing was a test lift. 👍😁
I have a post tensioned slab home, so it can be sketchy drilling into the garage floor. I installed a jib crane by using a metal detector and a stud finder to accurately trace the cables and work around them... I meant to take pictures and draw a map during the build, but forgot. I gotta say, it was a bit nervous drilling into the slab, but it all worked out in the end. That FLIR camera was pretty clever!
Just a little tip, drill the holes all the way through your concrete, that way if you ever want to remove the lift you can just unbolt the lift and hammer the old anchors down flush with the concrete and out of the way. Only option now is to cut the bolts and lifting it over the studs.
Thanks for the tip. I actually considered doing just that, but I decided against it because I have 3" of insulation foam underneath the slab and didn't love the idea of drilling into it. It probably wouldn't have mattered if I did drill through, but it was kind of an on the fly decision not to.
Drilling all the way will spall off some of the concrete on the bottom making it thinner, could matter if slab is not extra thick.
You can buy these at auctions. I remember seeing them all the time when I worked there
big ups to the wife love to see women willing to help
Honestly which women are ever not willing to help? I don’t think it’s uncommon for women to be willing to help out with things like this.
@@frikkied2638 take the win its not as common as u think
3/8 inch could have easily been adjusted out on the cable adjuster
Ya bought a phased out challenger/forward lift . They aren’t to bad.
Excellent work, sir. Very smart fellow.
18:50 "doubles its lifting power" That is not correct. That roller actually reduces the power by 50% while giving you a 2:1 lift ratio and lift rate. Look at the maximum cylinder extension versus the maximum lift height. You will find the cylinder is about half of the maximum lift height, thus you trade power for travel distance and speed.
19:56 That noise while you are lowering the lift is know as hydraulic chatter or stick/slip. It can be resolved with the addition of a special lubricant to the hydraulic fluid. Just do a search for hydraulic "anti-chatter" fluid. Stick/slip is more than just an annoyance as they cylinder is literally getting stuck and then breaking free, internally. Chatter is reduced somewhat by loading the cylinders, but not completely. It's an inherent problem with gravity release (one-way) cylinders.
Thanks for your comment. You are 100% correct on the lifting power. I had it backwards in my head and someone else corrected me on that. That chatter noise disappeared once I cycled the lift to eliminate the trapped air, but if it comes back I will keep that lube in mind.
I want your shop! How I wish I had that fantastic setup.
A little correction. The chain over the cylinder doubles the distance, cuts the power in half :)
Correct. My brain was broken that day. Good lookin out
Good job ! I would have gotten longer anchor bolts!
Wedge anchors suck. I epoxied 5/8 threaded rod into the concrete.....NOT going anywhere. I felt safer with a single bolt than i would with all 10 wedge anchors.
I have this same lift. I am happy with it but I do find it weird they use NPT fittings for the hydraulic cylinders.
9KOH? Same lift I bought back in '19 for around $1700. Picked it up myself from the Indy whse with ZERO damage. I never could figure out where that one bracket went, L shaped with a circle on end. Allmost 4 years now and only problem was 2 broken switches.
Dang, that's a great deal.
Hello from the Netherlands .
thanks for the video .
Sincerely, Hollandduck
I always love seeing comments from halfway around our little world!
@@AustinCoulson 👍
Excellent video. Thanks
Good thinking...great watch
Great video, what kind of insulation cover/vapor barrier is that in your building?
Hey I have a question about some of the parts that came with this lift, I bought the same lift and I saw you have the same 2 metal parts. There are 2, they are painted blue. They have a 90 degree bracket with 2 threaded holes. And on the other end a metal circle about 1-1.5”. I Cannot figure out where these two bracket go. And help would greatly appreciate! Thanks! 0:51
I had the same question so I contacted my sales rep and they said they mount to the top of each column to hold the hoses out of the way if the lift is installed on the low setting. I installed my lift on the higher setting so the brackets were not needed. Austin good job on your video it was helpful to me when setting up my lift. Thanks.
have one like that works great.
Is there a lock? For when you have a vehicle up on it…. Usually you lower onto a mechanical lock
yes
I'm surprised you didn't use ac100 or something like that inside the anchor holes. it helps them stay tight, that way you don't have to wrench on them every 2 months to keep them tight
I'm trying to find a nice low profile car lift to throw in my new garage, the ceilings are high enough to lift a car, but not high enough to throw a traditional two post lift in
make sure your concrete is strong for the low profile lift. mine broke the concrete and dropped a car almost killing me
What are the blue brackets with the hole thru them for? 0:57 next to the stop switch?
2:51 what are those welds lmaoo
I wouldnt have broken power with the safety switch, but would have broke the up leg, so power could be used to go down?
It doesn't need power to lower, it uses gravity and a hydraulic valve to lower it.
Do you have arthritis in your joints on your hands?
You said the cross bar not include?....i have buy 1 but not un unpack yet.....did i need to order 1
Not sure you put that lift in right. I could be wrong but when you have lift arms like that they call them a asymmetrical lift and the columns are not supposed to be square to each other they're at an angle. Thanks for sharing
They make asymmetrical column lifts like you described. This is a symmetrical column / asymmetrical arm lift. The asymmetrical column lifts have a lower rating as the center of gravity is not under the center of the columns. They are used for smaller cars to make it easier to get in and out of them
@@AustinCoulson I didn't know that you could up asymmetrical arms on a symmetrical lift. Thanks for sharing
@@itsatoolthing6323 I think the terminology is a little sloppy on these lifts because I see them labelled asymmetrical arms vs symmetrical arms and they both asymmetrical to me because the fronts and rears are different. The terms seems to describe if the front arms swing all the way back like mine do. Reminds me of how people (including myself) use the words engine and motor interchangeably
How thick does the concrete have to be?
Atlas says 4", but I wouldn't be recommend a 9k lift on less than 6".
What distances did you leave front and back the lift ?
I have a little under 14' in back of the lift and 30" in front. I wanted to have enough room behind it to put my extended cab long bed on it and still close the garage door.
I wish it had safety pins in case the chain broke.. im not quite sure how the safety mechanism you described works in the event of a failure?
The bracket is under tension from the chain during normal operations. In the event of a broken chain, the bracket locks into the latches built into the column so the carriage can only drop an inch or two before locking in place.
Sir good day..asking a out my 2 post lifter are not moving up quick WHY?
Nice job sir. I have a question in regards to having to re-torque the bolts due to them slowly pulling out. Any issues? I’m wondering if using .75” all thread and concrete epoxy would be better than standard wedge fasteners since it’s about 3 times stronger. Thanks.
This is a great question that I am not smart enough to properly answer. I have checked the torque multiple times and have not experienced any backing out whatsoever. I had a previous lift that was installed a degree or so off and I didn't use the same drill bit so the hole wasn't nearly as smooth and that lift needed retorquing regularly. I have had a few people suggest epoxy and all thread and I just don't know if that would be better or worse than wedge anchors. I feel like good epoxy is better than wedge anchors in a rough hole but on a really smooth bore I just feel like wedge anchors are better. But that's just feelings, I have no science to back it up.
every self-maintenance owners dream...
Where did you end up moving to?
I'm in Thompson Station.
Thank you, Dan
Spokane
Did I miss the part about the footer? I was jumping around the video. Mine has 4x4x4 concrete footers. Why such short studs? I have 12” studs (custom).
The manufacturer recommends at least 4" thick high strength concrete that has cured for at least 28 days. That seems a little thin to me. Luckily, I had 6" concrete, so felt comfortable installing it as the manufacturer recommends with the supplied anchors. If I would have been the one that poured the concrete I would have used 12" thick pads with j bolts instead of wedge anchors.
@@AustinCoulson wow I didn’t know 4” was a minimum. I’ve seen way too many failed lifts with 4”. No heavier than suv (gmc/chevy) it should be fine. I’m lifing 4x4 trucks loaded to the gills 8-10k lbs +. I only have one lift and my install was based on my experiences and history of other peoples experiences.
@@MLDIYSH way better to overbuild on the concrete side like you did if possible. Especially with such heavy stuff
Awesome lift. But the chain doesn't double the power. Just speed and height. I think 🤔
I think I could have worded that better. The use of a pulley and chain doubles the lifting capacity of the hydraulic cylinder but halves the travel and speed... I think. I was not very good in school.
@@AustinCoulson First of all I admire your skills with the trucks and the shop. Love your videos. And I wasn't very good at school as well. But I worked as an Elevator installer for many years. What you have there is a 1:2 pulley. One meter lifting at the cylinder is two meter at the platform. But you loose half the capacity of the cylinder. Like a backwards snatch block. And I'm not so good at explaining 😄
@@asbjrnkvisle5831 So it sounds like it was the exact opposite of what I thought. I will try to find some diagrams or videos online to check out so I can understand it better. Thanks for the heads up!
@@AustinCoulson And maybe explain it better than me. And I'm not 100 % sure that I'm right. Looking forward to see the lift in action with your projects 👍
You are correct. You actually lose lifting power in the trade. Twice the the height and speed but HALF the lifting power.
Update on the lift? How is it holding up?
It's great. I have had zero issues with it over the last year. Chains and cables are all tight with no adjustments needed. The concrete anchors have stayed torqued and the carriages have stayed perfectly level to the locks.
heck yeah. great job. hey you are the perfect person to ask. im fixing to install my lift i got to ask should i lock tight all of nuts and bolts??? or not i love how you split the camara it really look like theres is two of you doing the job lol
I don't use locktite as the manufacturer of the bolts doesn't recommend it because the bolts are supposed to be checked for torque weekly and locktite will affect that. Also, the issue with concrete wedge anchors isn't so much the nuts backing off as it is the entire bolt pulling out slightly and the wedge needing to be re-seated by retorquing. A lot of guys use epoxy in concrete now, and I think that is a good alternative to wedge anchors if you follow the instructions carefully. Personally, I love wedge anchors if they are installed correctly and inspected regularly. (I have not needed to re-torque mine at all in the first year in service.)
I have a 137" ceiling in my shop. Can you see a way to modify the cross bar to lower it one inch?
I loved having a 2 post lift at my old shop. Very sad to have to sell it.
How thick does the concrete have to be to have a 2 post
This specific model states 4.5" minimum, but I wouldn't be comfortable with concrete under 6".
How far apart are the post they look very far apart. I was a mechanic for 20 years an average midsize car would have just enough room to exit the car before the door would hit a post. Usually I'd pull the car ahead just enough so the door could be opened fully or back a bit to give it more swing. Those just look far apart which would be fine if the arms extend out enough.
Does that lift pickup your red 1-1/2 ton truck shown at the beginning of the video? Thanks
Yes, here is the video that was from:
ua-cam.com/video/LbIlieTwMN8/v-deo.html
Since you added the spacer plate did you have to use longer anchors on that side ?
Thank you for the informative video. Are you running this lift on a 20 amp or a 30 amp circuit?
30 amp breaker because that is what Atlas recommended. 10 ga solid core to the junction, 10 ga stranded in the flexible whip. Most guys I know run 20 amps and have no issues. I measured my current pull at under 15amps while lifting a car
@@AustinCoulson Thank you! I am trying to understand why Atlas "requires" a 30 amp circuit. Every other similar lift I have researched uses 20 amp wiring and breaker.
Are you able to walk under cars or does the overhead bard stop you from lifting high enough?
OKขอบคุณสิ่งที่น่ารู้ครับผม
Another great video, did you used to be a teacher or have you considered it because you do a good job explaining what and why you're doing what you're doing.
I have limited teaching experience, mostly just one-off classes in the military on very specific topics, but I enjoy whenever anyone sees my videos and says they learn something, so thank you for the kind compliment.
Most such lifts require 6" concrete slab. How come yours is only 4?
No idea. I was expecting to see a 6" requirement in the instructions. I wouldn't be comfortable installing this lift on a 4" slab.
what's the minimum thickness concrete to be able to install that lift ? thanks...
This model requires 4" per the instructions, but I wouldn't be comfortable with less than 5". Mine is 6"(ish)
@@AustinCoulson indeed, I wouldn't be comfortable either with only 4"... I'll go also with at least 6" next summer when I'll build my garage... thanks...
that little Amazon plasma cutter cut 3/8 " steel??
I've cut 1/2" with it. its slow but it'll do it. 3/8" can come out pretty clean with it
@austin coulson I noticed the lift in your amazon is different from this... would you recommend 1 over the other?
I tried the link and it looks to me like the same one (9KOH) but its also showing XH9KOHX as an alternative part number. I'm not sure what the difference, if any, is.
@@AustinCoulson the link in the video was correct.. your amazon garage wish list is a different one
@@shauntucker5145 I just checked that out. I was trying to decide between the lift on my garage list and the one you saw me install. I decided on the Atlas you saw because it has the asymmetrical arms and because my last lift was atlas and although they are all probably made in the same factory in China, I have had nothing but positive experiences with Atlas lifts. I have been super happy with my decision and would happily recommend the Atlas 9KOH
Austin, after installing this lift, do you think with appropriate protections will this lift tolerate an outdoor installation?
Ive seen a lot of people install these outdoors, but I wouldn't recommend it, at least without an overhead covering. Seems like the hoses and seals dry rot pretty quick in the sun and rain.
How far from the door did you go? Would you change it? Got an 11,000 lb Tuxedo asymmetrical that I'm unboxing right now. Thanks!
I'm 14' from my door and I wouldn't change a thing. It's far enough away that I can lift my crew cab long bed ram and still walk behind it and that was exactly what I was aiming for. Good luck on your install!
That lift was 1999.99 On amazon 1/11/2023 its now 3500 lol. I was gonna pull the dam trigger tonight too
I heard it was down to 2k, but it was unavailable when I checked. I'd recommend just keep watching it, the price seems to change a lot
What happened if you lose power why s car on lift
It depends if it was lowered onto the locks. If it was then you need power to raise it to unlock it. If it wasn't then it will lower just fine
hey is iso-2 same as AW-32??? witch one is better. please.
I just picked this lift up and am working on installing it. I cannot find an instruction manual that shows two ports at the bottom of the hydraulic cylinders. Each of my cylinders have two ports on the bottom and idk what to do with the lines lol. One port faces in towards the car, and the other faces out to where the line should go. Should I plug the inside one?
My cylinders also have 2 ports, one facing the vehicle and one facing the away. The away port connects to the hose and the vehicle facing port is plugged. Mine came plugged from the factory. Looks like 3/8NPT
@@AustinCoulson Mine came with little plastic plugs, I called atlas and they let me know that it should have came with 4 3/8 npt plugs. They said this is an issue they just found out about and the manufacturer should be remedying this going forward. I just ran to the hardware store and picked up a couple. Thanks for the follow up!
@@joshuacooper2645 great news, happy to help
Nice job but not a fan of the anchor bolt method but rather using high strength threaded rod and epoxy.
I was with you and trusted your words until I heard you say "my prius"... 😕 J/k, nice detailed video 👍
Lol. I sometimes feel like the only gearhead that drives a prius. I love that car.
Nice MR2
Yoo did you buy that hydraulic oil from L&m fleet?
North 40
I can tell you where the BendPack lift, if it says it’s good for 9000 pounds it will carry on a regular basis 11 to 12,000 pounds! And the lift will last you 35 years with daily commercial use.
With the atlas lift I have, if I carry 1200 to 1500 pounds over the stated limit those arms will fold!
I’ve already replaced one of the rear arms. And that was only because a pick up had a loaded bed.
The pick up was well within the range of the lift’s stated capacity.
For home use or a lift that is used in frequently and is overrated for the job an atlas should be OK.
Just don’t push it or use it on a professional basis .
Can't disagree with anything here. I love the Benpak, they just cost 2x as much. I also don't feel comfortable near the rated limit on my atlas. I won't lift more than 7500lbs, which is right where my Cummins is at, and even then, I did a 4 wheel weight balance on my truck first to make sure the COG was centered with the lift.
The nice thing about this video was also that your little girl consented to taking you that dessert👍
I didn't see how you unlock the safeties to lower it.
This atlas has the individual locks on each side that pull down on after lifting it off the safeties. My last atlas had a lever near the lowering handle that you had to hold down while lowering. They both have benefits, but I prefer my old style lever. Not a deal breaker though, as I like this lift more overall.
Sadly it’s unavailable on Amazon anymore
It comes and goes from Amazon often and the price has been changing a lot but if you keep checking it's usually back to being available within a couple of days.
Yikes cutting into Radiant floor, fingers crossed.
He's not cutting and he's clearly defined the location of the PEX so what's the issue? He's not just guessing and hoping for the best. Fingers crossed??
You can buy these directly from China for $1500/$1700 all lifts are made in China now.
I saw a bunch on Alibaba and elsewhere like you described, but I couldn't find a dealer that didn't seem shady.
Just seen the video not all lifts are from China. Backyard buddy is made in Nile’s Ohio. They make many brands and models there
Use Hilti drop in anchors
Not the junk in the boxx
You have been warned
what size is your shop ?
2500 sq ft
How tall is this lift?
I have the stop bar set up at 11'4" but it can also be set up for 11'
You got very lucky that you didn’t hit rebar, drilling is a pain in the ass and often rebar will make the bit deflect off.
I used a rebar bit that works really well. I hit rebar on a couple of the holes, but it cut right through it
@@AustinCoulson thanks! I didn’t realize such a bit existed.
@@A_Litre_of_Farva www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-3-4-in-x-12-in-SDS-Plus-Rebar-Cutter-48-20-6799/320278633
these bits are awesome
Great video
science is awesome
You trust it?
I love Atlas lifts. This is my second one
you got sweet ass tools.